Banff – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Sanson Peak in Banff, Canadian Rockies, Alberta, Canada & The Saskatchewan Province High Point (9-16-23 & 9-17-23)

Days 56 & 57 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

Waking suddenly from vivid, nonsensical dreams, SPHP was instantly alarmed. Already light out, and the American Dingo was still snoozing on her pink blanket! What time was it? 7:45 AM. Good! Perfect, in fact. SPHP turned the key, and the RAV4 sprang to life. Lupe opened an eye.

What’s going on, SPHP?

We’re meeting Luke Hall in 15 minutes, Loopster!

Luke from Australia and Gunsight Mountain, SPHP? That Luke Hall?

None other, Looper!

9-16-23, 8:00 AM, Banff, at the gazebo with the Canadian flag – Whew! Made it. Lupe was right on time. Luke wasn’t here yet, but he’d be along soon enough. Within a couple of minutes, Luke appeared striding across the green lawn toward the gazebo.

After meeting Luke in Alaska near the top of Gunsight Mountain back in 2016, Lupe hadn’t seen him since he’d come to visit her at home in the Black Hills in September, 2017 – half a lifetime ago for the Carolina Dog.

Reunited with **Luke** at the **Banff gazebo**.

**Cascade Mountain** (R), a Banff landmark, from the **gazebo**. Photo looks N.

Dressed warmly on this chilly September morning when everyone could see their breath, Luke was looking good! He greeted the still bleary-eyed Dingo enthusiastically, then chatted with SPHP.

**Luke** and **Lupe**, together again for the first time in nearly 6 years.

Unfortunately, a previously envisioned joint adventure wasn’t in the cards today. Luke’s work schedule had changed unexpectedly, and he had to report back to the Banff Springs Hotel at 10:00 AM. Tomorrow he was already committed to climbing Mount Edith Cavell (11,027 ft.) with another group of friends.

With only a 2 hours to get caught up on events of the past 6 years, SPHP suggested breakfast at one of the cafes. Luke accepted, but insisted on buying, which wasn’t at all necessary, but so be it! SPHP promised to buy Luke dinner next year, if Lupe had the good fortune to run into him again, which was a real possibility. Luke already had plans to return to Canada next summer.

After a short stroll downtown, the first cafe Luke suggested turned out not to be serving outdoors yet, since it was still so chilly out. Of course, Dingoes weren’t allowed inside, so that would never do. However, the restaurant next door was run by true Canadians. Cold? What cold? In September? That’s crazy talk. They were serving both inside and out.

Breakfast was excellent! And no doubt on the pricey side. SPHP had eggs, toast, and what few bites of bacon weren’t eagerly dispatched by the ravenous Carolina Dog simply by virtue of not letting her see them.

A lot had happened during the past 6 years. Back in Australia, Luke worked as a guide. He’d bought a beautiful home in Tasmania. This summer, he’d climbed Mount Assiniboine (11,864 ft.), a spectacular peak sometimes referred to as the Canadian Rockies’ Matterhorn (14,690 ft.). That only scratched the surface. Luke had been on many wonderful adventures. Lupe had been on hundreds of them, too!

The time flew. Once breakfast was over and done with, Luke was up for a walk along the Bow River with Lupe before he had to race off to work.

Since Luke had spent several summers working in Banff, SPHP asked if he had any suggestions for Lupe before she left the Canadian Rockies? Luke suggested Cascade Mountain (9,836 ft.), Banff’s iconic landmark.

Heh. After the American Dingo’s long Egypt Lakes adventure yesterday, Cascade Mountain was too ambitious. It was a big climb, and perhaps beyond SPHP’s capabilities on the best of days. Any other ideas?

Luke pondered. How about Sulphur Mountain (8,005 ft.)? Had Lupe ever been there? If not, she ought to do that! Easy trail to the top, and fabulous views of Banff from on high.

On the **new pawbridge** over the **Bow River**. **Sulphur Mountain** (L), **Sanson Peak** (Center). Photo looks S.

9-16-23, 9:58 AM, Banff – And that was it. Nearly 10:00 AM already! Hurried good-byes, and Luke had to run.

Fun seeing Luke again after all these years, SPHP! I was so surprised! Are we going to climb Sulphur Mountain like he suggested?

I don’t know, Loop. Seems like I’ve read up on Sulphur Mountain before. Everyone thinks the gondola near the Banff Upper Hot Springs goes to the top of Sulphur Mountain, which is sort of true and what they advertise, but it actually only goes to a subpeak. The true summit isn’t all that easy to get to, well S along a massive ridge with other subpeaks along the way.

So Sulphur Mountain isn’t any easier than Cascade Mountain, SPHP?

Oh, I wouldn’t say that, Looper. Sulphur Mountain has a much easier trail up to the gondola station, but getting to the true summit is still a big deal.

Well then, if you want super easy, let’s just take the gondola, SPHP!

Maybe, if they allow Dingoes. Not really climbing the mountain, though, is it, Loop? Luke said that the Banff library has free wifi. Let’s go over there, and I’ll read up on Sulphur Mountain again.

9-16-23, 2:53 PM – The parking lots for both the gondola and Banff Upper Hot Springs were absolutely packed. Circling slowly through the upper lot, SPHP eventually managed to find a spot for the RAV4. Minutes later, Lupe was at the start of the Sulphur Mountain trail watching people go by as SPHP had a glance at the posted trail information.

At the **Sulphur Mountain trailhead** near the **Banff Upper Hot Springs parking lot**. Photo looks SE.

The posted **Sulphur Mountain trail map**.

You aren’t even going to ask if they’ll let me ride the gondola, SPHP? I’ve never been on a gondola before, and think of all the time and effort it will save us. Might be fun!

Eh. We’ve got the time, and the effort required on a nice, quiet trail should be minimal, Loopster. Besides, some effort is good for us, and think of all the money we’ll save!

The gondola would be a much snazzier adventure, SPHP. It’s not like we haven’t had a chance to climb a mountain or two on this Dingo Vacation.

Be that as it may, SPHP never did ask whether Dingoes were welcome in the gondolas, or not. Lupe was soon heading up the Sulphur Mountain trail, which began as a ridiculously steep dirt path as wide as a road. Happily, after a mercifully short climb, it narrowed down somewhat, and began switchbacking much more gradually up the mountain.

Due to the trail’s gradual rate of climb, it took a seemingly endless series of switchbacks to gain the 2,000 feet of elevation required to reach the upper gondola station. At first the switchbacks were quite long, but they became considerably shorter higher up on the mountain. Except for a few times when the trail passed directly below the gondolas, permitting a glimpse of Mount Rundle (9,711 ft.) across a deep valley, the forest was thick enough to hide the views.

In truth, it would have been a pretty dull march, except for the fact that the trail was nowhere near as quiet as SPHP expected it to be. A great many people were on the Sulphur Mountain trail, many of them already on their way down. Lupe got to sniff with lots of dogs, which helped to keep things interesting.

**N end of Mount Rundle** (Center) from the gondola route. Photo looks ENE.

I’m amazed by how many people are on the trail, Loop. I’d always believed that virtually everyone takes the gondolas. I know they’re very popular.

Guess you’re not the only cheapskate on earth, SPHP.

9-16-17, 5:06 PM – Hardly anyone remained on the trail by the time the Carolina Dog reached the upper gondola station on Sulphur Mountain’s N ridge. Although signs had indicated that the gondolas supposedly quit running at 5:00 PM, that might have only been the latest time possible to board them for a ride up, because they were still in operation.

Arriving at the **upper gondola station**. Photo looks N.

The upper gondola station was a surprisingly large facility, apparently built with the support of other complimentary purposes in mind as well. A sign saying “Welcome Hikers” greeted Lupe. Another less friendly sign announced a “Banff Gondola Closure”. Gondola rides and all facilities were closed due to a private function and unavailable at this time.

The **upper gondola station** (Center). Photo looks N.

Yet, while Lupe and SPHP watched, a few stragglers still coming up the trail were admitted into the gondola station by staff members, seemingly because they either held, or intended to purchase, tickets for riding the gondolas back down the mountain. These employees also appeared to indicate that everything else was closed, and no admittance was allowed for any other purpose. Upon arrival, most hikers simply turned around within a few minutes and marched right back down the trail.

This is ridiculous, Loop! After coming all this way, do they really mean that we can’t even walk around to the N side of the building?

Cheer up, SPHP! We already knew that we weren’t going to be able to get to the true summit of Sulphur Mountain (8,005 ft.), which is to the S, anyway, so it doesn’t really matter, does it?

Yes, it does, Loopster! There’s a tremendous view of Banff from the other side of the gondola station, and even if we can’t claim an ascent of Sulphur Mountain, there’s also a subpeak a little farther N along the ridge called Sanson Peak (7,448 ft.) that we should have been able to get to.

Oh, you hadn’t mentioned that, SPHP! Is that Sanson Peak that I’m seeing off to the L beyond the gondola station?

No, I believe that’s another subpeak along the ridge, Looper. Sanson Peak lies somewhat beyond it. Can’t be too much farther, though.

For more than half an hour, the American Dingo rested with SPHP on a large flagstone platform S of the gondola station, watching stragglers come and go. Banff wasn’t in sight from here, and trees permitted only limited glimpses E toward Mount Rundle (9,711 ft.). Sadly, forest also hid the rest of the massive ridge leading SSE toward Sulphur Mountain’s true summit, but at least there was quite a nice view looking NW over the giant Bow River valley toward Mount Cory (9,190 ft.).

**Mount Cory** (Center). Photo looks NW.

9-16-23, 5:41 PM – For the first time since Lupe had arrived, ignoring all signs, a couple of people simply walked over to the deck on W side of the gondola station and vanished around a corner. By now, no one else was around, and SPHP was surprised when they didn’t promptly reappear.

Huh. I thought that area was currently off-limits due to the private event, Loop. No one else has gone over there. Maybe I misunderstood?

Well then, let’s try it, SPHP! We’re here now, and the worst thing that can happen is that someone will kick us out.

Might as well! Even if they did kick Lupe out, the Carolina Dog would be no worse off than she was now. Strolling nonchalantly over to the deck on the W side of the gondola station, people were sitting at a picnic table below a Canadian flag with Cascade Mountain in sight beyond them.

**Cascade Mountain** (Center) from the **W side of the gondola station**. Photo looks N.

Even more people were out on the big deck on the N side of the gondola station. No one seemed to have the slightest objection to Lupe or SPHP being here. Lupe hopped onto a bench where she had a grand view of Banff with magnificent Cascade Mountain (9,836 ft.) soaring beyond it.

**Cascade Mountain** (Center) beyond **Banff**. **Mount Aylmer** (far R). Photo looks N.

Tunnel Mountain (5,551 ft.), which Lupe had once been to on a cloudy evening a long time ago, was in sight, too, right along the E side of Banff, looking very small from here.

**Banff** and **Cascade Mountain** (L of Center), **Tunnel Mountain** (lower R), **Mount Aylmer** (R) in the distance, **Lake Minnewanka** (far R). Photo look N.

After a good look at the terrific view of Banff from on high, it was time to explore the boardwalk leading to the next Sulphur Mountain subpeak to the NW, where a building with a tower on it was perched at the very top.

About to set off on the **Sulphur Mountain boardwalk** for the **Cosmic Ray Station** (R). Photo looks NW.

Exploring the **boardwalk**. Photo looks NW.

Quick glance back at the **upper Sulphur Mountain gondola station**. Photo looks SE.

The lofty little building ultimately proved to be the Sulphur Mountain Cosmic Ray Station. The boardwalk went all the way to it. From one of the platforms along the way, Sanson Peak was visible for the first time, somewhat lower, and not all that much farther NNW.

From here, Sanson Peak wasn’t very impressive. However, Mount Norquay (8,278 ft.), Mount Edith (8,399 ft.), Mount Cory (9,190 ft.), and a host of other mountains in sight beyond it were.

**Sulphur Mountain summit** (R) from the boardwalk leading to the **Sulphur Mountain Cosmic Ray Station** (L). Photo looks SE.

**Mount Cory** (far L), **Mount Edith** (L), **Mount Norquay** (Center), with **Mount Sanson** (R of Center) in the foreground. Photo looks NW.

On the way to the cosmic ray station, Lupe passed a display proclaiming that she was at Sanson Peak, the highest point on Sulphur Mountain. A different plaque also claimed that this was the top of Sulphur Mountain. Neither was strictly true.

**Sulphur Mountain Cosmic Ray Station plaque**.

No matter! The cosmic ray station was a tremendous viewpoint! Banff, the Bow River, Cascade Mountain, Tunnel Mountain, and Mount Rundle were all on display. Lupe enjoyed a fabulous view of the upper gondola station, and what appeared to be the true summit of Sulphur Mountain (8,005 ft.) well beyond it, too.

On the big deck below the **Sulphur Mountain Cosmic Ray Station**. Photo looks WNW.

**Banff** and **Cascade Mountain** (L), **Tunnel Mountain** (R of Center) with **Mount Aylmer** beyond. Photo looks NNE.

**Mount Rundle true summit** (R). Photo looks ESE.

**Sulphur Mountain true summit** (Center) and **upper Banff gondola station** (L) from the **Cosmic Ray Station**. Photo looks SSE.

9-16-23, 6:12 PM – Merely a small, locked, stone building, the Sulphur Mountain Cosmic Ray Station was now sadly defunct. Lupe learned nothing about cosmic rays here, although she did find out that Anmol was very fond of Hitakshi, which may have been even more important.

At the sadly defunct **Sulphur Mountain Cosmic Ray Station**. Photo looks W.

**Anmol hearts Hitakshi** (L of Center). Photo looks WNW.

Although the cosmic ray station was clearly the scenic climax of Lupe’s Sulphur Mountain journey, she still hadn’t reached Sanson Peak where she could claim a peakbagging success. The mid-September sun was sinking fast, so if she wanted to get there while it was still light out, the American Dingo had to move on.

Leaving the cosmic ray station, a gravel road headed in the direction of Sanson Peak, but wasn’t actually destined for the summit. Instead, the road dropped steadily along the W side of the ridge. Before getting too far below the ridgeline, Lupe abandoned the road. A short, very steep scramble back up into the forest regained the ridgeline.

Exploring N, Lupe soon came to a saddle that was more open. A modest forested hill was now directly ahead.

That’s got to be it, Loopster – Sanson Peak!

Approaching **Sanson Peak**. Photo looks N.

9-16-23, 6:55 PM, 73ºF – Expecting the summit to be buried in trees, SPHP was surprised when Sanson Peak (7,448 ft.) actually offered something in the way of views. Lupe arrived to find a relatively flat summit region roughly 30 feet in diameter dotted with only small trees and a few 1 or 2 foot high rock outcroppings. Taller trees bordered this opening in most directions, but Mount Rundle was in sight, as well as the top of Cascade Mountain.

**Cascade Mountain** (R) from **Sanson Peak**. Photo looks N.

**N end of Mount Rundle** (R). Photo looks E.

There was a nice view of the Sulphur Mountain Cosmic Ray Station, too.

**Sulphur Mountain Cosmic Ray Station** (Center). Photo looks SSE.

Beyond a few tall trees on the W side of the clearing, Lupe could also see Mount Bourgeau (9,616 ft.), which she had climbed twice many years ago, farther up the enormous Bow River valley.

Although shadows crept steadily up the mountainsides, the Carolina Dog lingered on Sanson Peak for more than half an hour. Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations were almost over. Tomorrow she would leave the mountains, homeward bound.

Well, Sweet Puppy, 2023 was quite a year, wasn’t it?

Another totally awesome summer of fabulous adventures together, SPHP!

That it was, Loopster. Wouldn’t have missed it for anything!

9-16-23, 7:59 PM – The sun was down by the time Lupe reached the road leading back to the boardwalk again. Beyond the mountains to the W, the sky was orange, highlighting smooth, thin streaks hanging in the air.

**Mount Bourgeau** (far L), **Bow River valley** (R). Photo looks W.

That’s smoke, SPHP! Remnants of the Arctic Apocalypse are still here!

Still seems incredible, doesn’t it, Loop? What an adventure, though! We’ll always remember 2023 as the year of the Arctic Apocalypse, won’t we?

A private party actually was going on. The upper gondola station was brightly lit up when Lupe went by it again. Many people were visible through the big windows, and some were even out on the roof. Back at the flagstone platform, SPHP had Lupe pause for a final look W.

Back at the **upper gondola station**. Photo looks W.

Nice pose, Loopster! Thanks!

That it for this Dingo Vacation, SPHP?

No, not quite. In fact, I almost forgot. We need to go back around to the N side of the gondola station to check out the lights of Banff!

**Lights of Banff** from **Sulphur Mountain**. Photo looks N.

9-16-23, 8:25 PM – Dusk turned to total darkness during the long winding descent through the forest. As Lupe hurried down the switchbacks, she had the formerly busy trail all to herself. Down was a lot easier than up, yet it seemed to take a long time before the lights of Banff Hot Springs first glittered among the trees below.

The gondola parking lot was only 25% full, but quite a few people were still milling around in the process of leaving when the American Dingo reached the RAV4 again. (End, 9:58 PM)

9-17-23, 2:04 PM, 82ºF, Cedar Hills in SW Saskatchewan near the Alberta border – The cloud of dust behind the RAV4 diminished, then drifted away as the RAV4 rolled to a stop. Following SPHP, Lupe hopped out. Beyond a pancake flat yellow field, a line of trees was off to the N. Looking S, there weren’t any trees, only more yellow grass.

According to Slayden’s GPS track, this is it, Loopster.

This is what, SPHP? A trail? There’s no mountain here!

Yeah, there is, Loop. We’re already on top of it. According to the topo map, there’s a 4,567 foot high point just a few hundred feet S of the road.

Well, the rest of this territory must all be 4,566 feet, SPHP, ’cause I’m not seeing it.

Me, either, but that’s the way it is. From what I’ve read, no one seems to be completely certain of the Saskatchewan High Point’s exact location. It’s somewhere up on this vast, flat mesa. Like a lot of others, we’re just going to wander over to the site elevation marked on the map, and call it good.

Slipping under a barbed wire fence, the enormous field was so flat that it was hard to tell if the American Dingo was going up or down at all as she headed S through the tall grass. It took only a few minutes to get to the spot where the site elevation was shown on the topo map.

9-17-23, 2:10 PM, 82ºF – A warm, dry wind was blowing 15 mph from out of the SW when SPHP stopped to shake the Carolina Dog’s paw. Glancing back at the RAV4, it appeared to be at essentially the same elevation.

Well, guess this is it, Loopster, the Saskatchewan High Point (4,567 ft.). Congratulations on reaching the last summit of your Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations!

Really? After all the grand mountains we climbed? What an anticlimax! Literally nothing to it, SPHP! Nothing here but an old cow pie.

Looking SE, a fence or corral was visible in the distance. Something dark was more directly S. A lone tree? Perhaps it was just an illusion, but less than a km away, both areas looked higher than where Lupe was now.

According to Slayden’s GPS track, he did a bit more searching about for the actual high point, Looper. Want to do a little more exploring? We’re going to be stuck in the RAV4 the rest of the day, once we’re done here.

Lupe was all for it.

Heading SE, the land did dip a bit before beginning a gradual climb. Upon arriving at the corral, what appeared to be even higher territory was now visible toward the SSE.

Following a dirt road S, it was farther than it looked to the high ground. Before the American Dingo even got there, SPHP reconsidered. More high ground was visible off to the WSW beyond a valley along the S edge of the plateau. That area was at least another km away as the crow flies.

Hmm. I don’t know, Looper. To really explore all of this high ground is going to take awhile, and I’m not sure what time the border closes. Maybe we should just call it good, and accept the spot elevation shown on the map as the true high point like everyone else seems to?

If it’s good enough for Slayden, it’s good enough for me, SPHP. Would take a surveyor to know for sure. Do you mind if we go over to the edge of the plateau to see what the view is like? We can visit the tree on the way back.

Yeah, let’s do that, Loop.

So that became the plan. On the way to the tree, Lupe deliberately lost some elevation, enough to get the best view from the gently sloping edge of the plateau. The United States was out there, somewhere on the hazy, distant horizon.

Along the **edge of the plateau**. Photo looks SSW.

Day 57! Last one of your longest Dingo Vacation ever, Looper. Hard to believe it’s almost all over and done with now. We’ll soon be home.

There’s no place like home, SPHP, but I wish we were back at Day 1 again.

SPHP did, too. However, lacking a wayback machine, no choice but to continue on. Turned out that the dark spot was actually an ancient piece of farm equipment quietly rusting away, not a tree or bush.

The **old farm equipment** 0.5 km W of the corral. Photo looks N.

On the way back to the RAV4, Lupe revisited the spot marked as 4,567 feet on the topo map.

This it it, so smile big, Loopster! Last photo of your fabulous Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations!

9-17-23, 4:40 PM – Lupe made it to the Willow Creek border crossing into Montana with time to spare. Not much, though! Good thing she hadn’t lingered any longer at the Saskatchewan High Point, because the Willow Creek station would have closed at 5:00 PM. As it was, the Carolina Dog sailed through US customs without a hitch. The long drive home could continue, with only 2 brief stops for food and fuel the rest of the way.

9-18-23, 4:26 AM, 62ºF – Home again! Lupe lay happily on the long grass of the front lawn, watching SPHP wearily start the process of unloading the RAV4. 57 days and 10,008 miles were were now history.

Well, I must say that was fun, SPHP! I do have a question, though. How much longer before my awesome Summer of 2024 Dingo Vacations begin?

At the **Saskatchewan High Point** in the Cedar Hills, Canada 9-17-23

**Lupe’s Sanson Peak GPS Track (9-16-23)**

**Lupe’s Saskatchewan High Point GPS Track (9-17-23)**

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Sanson Peak Scrollable GPS Track & Stats

Lupe’s Saskatchewan High Point Scrollable GPS Track & Stats

Greg Slayden’s Scrollable Saskatchewan High Point GPS Track & Trip Report

Mount Bourgeau, Banff National Park, Canada (8-1-16)

Tunnel Mountain, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-1-17)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Wilcox Pass, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada (7-25-23)

Days 1 & 2, and Part 1 of Day 3 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

7-23-23, 11:30 AM, 82ºF – On her pink blanket atop pillows and various gear, the Carolina Dog was excited!

Ready to roll whenever you are, SPHP!

If I’ve forgotten anything else, we’re just going to have to buy it somewhere along the way. Show time, sweet puppy!

Turning the key, SPHP backed the RAV4 out of the driveway. Lupe’s grand and glorious 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska was underway!

Stops to sniff the air and stretch were few and far between on this first day. Lupe kept a nose out for cows and horses, but there didn’t seem to be as many of them this year. Probably huddled around whatever water or shade they could find. All through Wyoming, temperatures were in the mid-90’s °F as the RAV4 raced W along I-90.

Montana was an oven! 101ºF when SPHP dashed into Albertson’s in Billings to grab an 8-piece baked chicken deal. No time to get anything else in there, or the American Dingo would have baked, too, stuck in the RAV4 without the AC on, even with the windows down.

7-23-23, 8:28 PM – At 73ºF, conditions in the Little Belt Mountains were much more tolerable by the time Lupe bounded out of the RAV4 full of enthusiasm.

Kings Hill Pass (7,393 ft.)! Love it here, SPHP! Any preference? Want to climb Kings Hill (8,008 ft.) or Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.) first?

Sun will be down soon, Loop, so we only have time for one or the other this evening. How about Kings Hill? We can do Porphyry in the morning.

Shortly after cutting through the forest up to USFS Road No. 487, thunder rumbled in the distance. Lightning played among the dark clouds to the S, and a light rain began to fall.

7-23-23, 9:07 PM, 68ºF, Kings Hill (8,008 ft.) – The rain was already over and done with by the time the American Dingo reached the brass survey benchmark near the true summit. An orange glow was on the WNW horizon, and some of the clouds overhead glittered like gold.

**Porphyry Peak** (L) from **Kings Hill**. Photo looks WNW.

By the brass survey benchmark near the true summit. Photo looks NE.

Looks promising! Maybe there’s going to be a nice sunset, SPHP?

You might be right, Looper. Let’s go over by the edge to watch the show.

Going a little down the WNW slope, Lupe sat watching the developing display. The air was cool, fresh, and the clearest it had ever been on any of Lupe’s prior visits to Kings Hill.

The sunset turned out to be the best one ever, too.

Sunset from **Kings Hill**. **Porphyry Peak** (L). Photo looks NW.

7-24-23, 7:20 AM, 69ºF – Although this was going to be another travel day, as promised, Lupe got to start the morning with a jaunt up USFS Roads No. 838 & No. 6388 to visit the Showdown ski facilities and fire lookout tower on Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.).

At the base of the **Porphyry Peak fire lookout tower**. Photo looks E.

The **survey benchmark** that was in front of Lupe in the previous photo.

Heading over to the Showdown ski lifts. Photo looks ESE.

**Fire lookout tower** (L), **Showdown ski facility** (R). Photo looks NW.

The most impressive views were of Big Baldy Mountain, which Lupe had once been to, and Yogo Peak (8,801 ft.).

**Big Baldy Mountain** (L) and **Yogo Peak** (R). Photo looks NE.

We ought to visit Yogo Peak, too, SPHP!

Maybe someday, Looper, but not today. Canada and Alaska, remember? This is it for your morning constitutional. C’mon, we need to get back to the RAV4 and make some tracks.

Using one of the ski runs as a bit of a shortcut, Lupe headed down to the roads leading back to Kings Hill Pass.

Leaving **Porphyry Peak**. **Big Baldy Mountain** (R of Center), **Yogo Peak** (far R). Photo looks NNE.

The shortcut back to the USFS roads. Photo looks NW.

Driving out of the Little Belt Mountains, SPHP stopped briefly at the Al Buck Memorial Park so Lupe could get a drink from the spring gushing out of a hillside. Other than a couple of quick stops for food and fuel, that was it before crossing into Canada at the N end of I-15 at 12:57 PM.

Enjoying a drink from the spring at the **Al Buck Memorial Park** along Hwy 89.

At midday, even the Canadian border was a scorching 99ºF! Despite the heat, Lupe left the cool comfort of the RAV4’s AC long enough to pose by the Alberta welcome sign.

The **Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood** returns to **Canada**!

Another long drive with only occasional brief stops ensued. By early evening, the Carolina Dog was back in the fabulous Canadian Rockies!

7-24-23, 6:30 PM, 85ºF, Banff – As usual, beautiful Banff was jam-packed with tourists, and justifiably so. A couple of changes were evident since Lupe had been here last year. It was no longer possible to drive along Banff Avenue in the heart of downtown, which was now reserved solely for pawdestrians, and the fancy new upstream pawbridge over the Bow River that had been under construction in 2022 was now complete and open to the public.

Lupe’s evening in Banff began with a stroll along the turquoise blue Bow River. Famous Cascade Mountain (9,836 ft.) was in sight as she crossed the new upstream pawbridge, while the downstream bridge offered a great view of the N end of Mount Rundle (9,711 ft.).

**Cascade Mountain** (Center) beyond the new upstream pawbridge. Photo looks N.

**Mount Rundle** (Center) from the downstream bridge. Photo looks SE.

Continuing downstream, Lupe visited Bow Falls, which was more like a steep rapids than a vertical waterfall, but awesome nevertheless. From there, a trail led up to the historic Banff Springs Hotel.

Along the **Bow River** below the falls. Photo looks E.

The historic **Banff Springs Hotel**. Photo looks N.

The Carolina Dog’s evening ended with a long-standing Banff tradition – Lupe’s Pretty Puppy Parade up and down both sides of Banff Avenue in the heart of downtown.

Lupe’s one-Dingo **Pretty Puppy Parade** in the center of **Banff**.

7-25-23, 6:37 AM, 66ºF – Early sunshine was peeping through the clouds on this breezy, unsettled morning, and Banff was still quiet as Lupe left town. At least, it was quiet until the Carolina Dog spotted several giant deers. Nearly tame, they seemed more perplexed than alarmed as they were subjected to ferocious barking emitting from the RAV4.

Guess you told them, didn’t you, Loopster? A bit rudely, though.

Giant deers are incredibly exciting, SPHP! Right on the edge of town, too! A great start to a great day. Now that we’ve made it to the Canadian Rockies, what’s on the agenda?

Been ages since we’ve seen the Athabasca Glacier from Wilcox Pass. Thinking we might do that, Looper. We can stop at a few favorite spots along the way, too, if you like.

Sounds terrific, SPHP!

It was a fine plan. However, driving W on Hwy 1, the sky soon became very dark. The mountains turned gray, then vanished amid heavy rain.

Shucks, Loop! Looks we’re going to miss out on the Canadian Rockies, and get stuck with a rainy day drive. Sorry! Nothing I can do about it, though.

Most disappointing! However, current conditions were deceptive. By the time the RAV4 reached Lake Louise, the rain was over and blue sky was ahead.

7-25-23, 7:49 AM, 42ºF, Bow Lake picnic area along Icefields Parkway No. 93 – So much for the baking heat of the plains! SPHP dug a couple more layers of clothing out of the duffle bags, put them on, then accompanied the Carolina Dog down to the lakeshore. Beyond the rippled surface, a red roof stood out way over along opposite N shore.

**Mount Jimmy Simpson** (R of Center) beyond **Bow Lake**. Photo looks NW.

The trail to Bow Glacier Falls and Mount Jimmy Simpson starts over there, remember, SPHP? That’s the Num-Ti-Jah Lodge!

Of, course! Awesome times, sweet puppy! However, they’ve now changed the name from Num-Ti-Jah Lodge, to just the Lodge at Bow Lake. Easier to remember, I suppose.

7-25-23, 8:57 AM, – Lupe’s next stop was only a few km farther N. The L turn off Icefields Parkway No. 93 for the Peyto Lake overlook came at the top of Bow Pass. Surprisingly, the 0.6 km paved trail to the overlook had been rerouted since the last time the American Dingo was here. The view deck was new, too, and much larger than it used to be.

Across the deep valley the lake was nestled in, Cauldron Peak (9,580 ft.) towered over the far shore, with Mount Patterson (10,469 ft.) standing like a sentinel along the edge of the Mistaya River valley, where a long line of magnificent mountains stretched off to the N horizon.

At the fancy new **Peyto Lake view deck**. **Mistaya River Valley** (R). Photo looks NNW.

**Peyto Lake** from the end of the deck. **Mount Patterson** (L). Photo looks NNW.

**Peyto Lake** with **Cauldron Mountain** (L), **Mount Patterson** (Center), **Mistaya River Valley** (R). Photo looks NNW.

Love how Peyto Lake has such an amazing, milky, turquoise blue color! Don’t you, SPHP?

Oh, of course! That’s because it’s a glacier-fed lake, Loopster. Remember your Search for the Peyto Glacier? We took a primitive trail down to Peyto Creek from here, and wandered up the valley.

We never did find the Peyto Glacier, SPHP.

Beyond our abilities, Loopster, but we had a great time. If you look SW up the valley, you can actually see Peyto Peak (9,711 ft.) and part of the Peyto Glacier from right here on the view deck.

**Peyto Glacier** (Center), **Peyto Peak** (R). Photo looks SW.

**Peyto Glacier** (L), **Peyto Peak** (R), **Peyto Creek** (far R). Photo looks SW.

Once upon a time, the American Dingo had also taken a shorter trail from here to Bow Summit, a high spot with a gorgeous view of Bow Lake back to the S, although admittedly not as grand as the one from Mount Jimmy Simpson.

However, with Wilcox Pass on the agenda, Lupe didn’t visit Bow Summit again today. A final quick stop at the Carson Creek picnic ground along the North Saskatchewan River, where SPHP got the pack ready, was it before the main event.

**North Saskatchewan River** from the Carson Creek picnic ground. Photo looks SE.

7-25-23, 11:04 AM, 48ºF – As Icefields Parkway No. 93 went up and over Sunwapta Pass, the Carolina Dog left Banff National Park behind, and entered Jasper National Park. Wilcox Creek campground was only 2.5 km farther on the R. For a change, the severely under-sized Wilcox Pass trailhead near the entrance to the campground wasn’t entirely overrun. SPHP was lucky enough to grab a vacant parking spot for the RAV4, and Lupe was on her way!

The incredibly popular Wilcox Pass trail began with a short climb into the forest along a broad, smooth path. Before long, the trail was even wider and covered with a multitude of roots. After a fairly flat section, the trail began climbing at a good clip, eventually flattening out shortly before leading to a boardwalk with a set of stairs.

Near the start of the **Wilcox Pass trail**.

Beyond the boardwalk, the trail climbed more steeply again. The first viewpoint came soon after going around a bend NW, but only hinted at the glories yet to come. An open slope a little farther on revealed much more. Although the Athabasca Glacier wasn’t in sight yet, Mount Athabasca (11,414 ft.), Mount Andromeda (11,286 ft.), Snow Dome (11,345 ft.) and Mount Kitchener (11,483 ft.) were.

**Snow Dome** (L), **Mount Kitchener** (R) from the first good viewpoint. Photo looks W.

The Wilcox Pass trail leveled out to some degree as it continued NW through another stretch of forest. When Lupe reached the next open slope, most of the Athabasca Glacier was in view.

Along the last stretch of dense forest. Photo looks NW.

**Athabasca Glacier** (L), **Snow Dome** (Center), **Mount Kitchener** (R). Photo looks WSW.

Something new was ahead! Two red chairs faced the already grand view of the glacier flanked by Mount Athabasca and Mount Andromeda on the L, and Snow Dome and Mount Kitchener on the R. Lupe got up on a platform connecting the chairs, braving a brisk SW breeze.

Red chairs viewpoint. **Mount Kitchener** (L), **Mount Wilcox** (far R). Photo looks WNW.

**Hilda Peak** (far L), **Mount Athabasca** (Center). Photo looks S.

What a great spot, Loopster! If one didn’t feel like going any farther, these chairs wouldn’t be a bad place to hang out. Both Hilda Peak (9,974 ft.) and the top of Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) are in sight, in addition to all the big peaks over by the Athabasca Glacier.

Don’t get any ideas, SPHP. We’re going all the way to Wilcox Pass!

The red chairs were near treeline. Only scattered stands of increasingly stunted forest and bushes were ahead, as tundra-covered slopes began to dominate. A relatively flat section of the trail continued a bit farther NW toward a big gully below the Wilcox Pass region, which was now starting to come into view.

Near the gully, the trail veered N, climbing steeply for 200 feet before once again angling NW. The slope steadily diminished as Lupe entered a rumpled region of low bushes, tundra, and small rock formations.

The flat stretch of trail beyond the red chairs. **Mount Wilcox** (far L). **Wilcox Pass region** (Center). Photo looks NW.

Above the steepest stretch. **Big gully** (L), **Mount Wilcox** (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

In the **rumpled region**. Photo looks NW.

The Wilcox Pass trail kept flattening, literally becoming a stroll in the park – Jasper National Park! By the time Lupe reached the shallow stream that flowed into the gully, most of Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) was in view, and Wilcox Pass wasn’t much farther.

From a rock outcropping capping a small rise near the stream, a huge ridge was in sight beyond Mount Wilcox.

Recognize that ridge, Loop? You were there since the last time we visited Wilcox Pass.

Hmm. Not sure, SPHP. Give me a hint!

Well, it’s possible to continue over Wilcox Pass along this trail and wind up over there, but that’s not how we did it. Instead we started down by Tangle Falls where the NW end of the Wilcox Pass trail reaches Icefields Parkway No. 93 again.

Tangle Falls! That’s a great hint, SPHP. That must be Tangle Ridge! Oh, that was another great day in the Canadian Rockies!

Indeed it was, Loopster! Fun to see Tangle Ridge again from here.

Closing in on **Wilcox Pass**. **Mount Wilcox** (L). Photo looks NW.

**Mount Wilcox** (L of Center), **Tangle Ridge** (R). Photo looks NW.

About to cross the **shallow stream**. Photo looks NW.

**Tangle Ridge** (Center) from **Wilcox Pass**. Photo looks NW.

7-25-23, 12:35 PM, 41ºF – Wilcox Pass was so cold and windy when Lupe arrived, that SPHP dumped the pack then layered up – stocking cap, coat, gloves, the whole bit. Although the Carolina Dog had seen surprisingly few people thus far, plenty were up here, all dressed like winter was coming while exploring the vast Wilcox Pass region.

**Wilcox Pass**. **Tangle Ridge** (L). Photo looks NNW.

**Hilda Peak** (L), **Mount Athabasca** (R) from **Wilcox Pass**. Photo looks S.

**Mount Wilcox** (Center) from **Wilcox Pass**. **Tangle Ridge** (R). Photo looks NW.

A sign said it was 1.4 km to Wilcox Ridge. As awesome as all the wide open spaces were at Wilcox Pass, the pass was never the Carolina Dog’s ultimate destination. Wilcox Ridge was where the stupendous view of the Athabasca Glacier was. Lupe always went there! Despite the cold wind, coming all the way to Wilcox Pass and not going to Wilcox Ridge would be simply ridiculous.

**Wilcox Ridge** from **Wilcox Pass**. Photo looks W.

The spur trail heading W up into the Wilcox Ridge region used to fade away, simply becoming more of a choose-your-own-path route once it turned SW. However, the trail was now very distinct. If there was any question at all about it, new cairns held together by wire cages, each bearing a yellow diamond, marked the way.

More than halfway to the Wilcox Ridge viewpoint, Lupe came to a long rock wall serving as a windbreak. That was new, too. The Carolina Dog was glad one thing hadn’t changed. Bighorn mountain sheep still grazed these windswept slopes.

Signage at the Wilcox Pass trail junction.

**Hilda Peak** (far L), **Mount Athabasca** (Center) from one of the yellow diamond cairns. Photo looks S.

At the rock wall windbreak. Photo looks SW.

The Wilcox Ridge Trail went over a series of minor ridges and ravines on the way to what appeared to be a more formal viewpoint than Lupe had ever seen here before. Quite a few people were already present as the American Dingo arrived. Preferring more solitude, SPHP decided to take a side route farther W, closer to the SE end of the narrow ridge leading up Mount Wilcox before selecting another spot along the SW edge where Lupe could relax on a patch of tundra.

Approaching the **Wilcox Ridge Athabasca Glacier viewpoint**. Photo looks SW.

Heading a little farther W before taking a break. **Mount Wilcox** (R). Photo looks W.

7-25-23, 1:36 PM, 43ºF – The 30 mph gale sweeping in from the SW felt really cold at the viewpoint SPHP had chosen. Fortunately, conditions weren’t nearly as bad while relaxing just a few feet back from the edge. Facing SW directly into the breeze, Lupe once again enjoyed one of the most magnificent easily accessible views in the Canadian Rockies.

Mount Athabasca (11,414 ft.) and Mount Andromeda (11,286 ft.) on the L, and Snow Dome (11,345 ft.) and Mount Kitchener (11,483 ft.) on the R, with the Athabasca Glacier between them, flowing down from the almost entirely hidden Columbia Icefield.

Looking S. **Mount Athabasca** (L), **Mount Andromeda** (Center), **Athabasca Glacier** (R).

**Mount Andromeda** (L), **Athabasca Glacier** (Center), **Snow Dome** (R). Photo looks SSW.

**Athabasca Glacier** (L), **Snow Dome** (R), **Mount Kitchener** (R edge). Photo looks SW.

Still a truly incredible scene, SPHP, but there isn’t as much snow and ice as I remember.

Yup. The Athabasca Glacier is steadily retreating, Loopster. One day in the not too distant future, it will be but a memory.

That’s a terribly sad thought, SPHP! This has to be one of my favorite places in the Canadian Rockies, although seeing the Saskatchewan Glacier from Parker Ridge, Berg Lake at the base of Mount Robson , Moraine Lake, and Lake Louise all rank way up there, too.

All fabulous choices, Looper. However, if we were limited to being able to come back to only one spot in the Canadian Rockies ever again, I might well choose Wilcox Pass and this view. Most spectacular scenic reward for a half day hike there is!

Peering over the edge, Sunwapta Lake, the meltwater pond that used to be at the toe of the glacier once upon a time, and the Icefields Centre, where it’s possible to get tickets to actually ride in a snowcoach up onto the Athabasca Glacier, were in sight 1,400 feet below. Looking back to the ESE, Sunwapta Pass and Nigel Peak were in view.

**Icefields Centre** (Center) down by **Icefields Parkway No. 93**. **Sunwapta Lake** (R) below the toe of the **Athabasca Glacier**. Photo looks ESE.

**Nigel Peak** (L) and **Sunwapta Pass** (R). Photo looks ESE.

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, congratulating the Carolina Dog on her return to this marvelous scene for the first time in nearly 7 years, then shared a chocolate coconut bar with her.

For over an hour, Lupe and SPHP hung out together in the cold breeze, admiring the glory in all directions, chief of which was the splendid panorama of the Athabasca glacier and surrounding mighty peaks.

**Mount Andromeda** (L), **Athabasca Glacier** (Center), part of **Snow Dome** (R). Photo looks SSW.

**Athabasca Glacier**. Photo looks SSW with help from the telephoto lens.

Happy Lupe with **Mount Athabasca** (L) and the **Athabasca Glacier** (R) beyond her. Photo looks S.

Oh, we’ll never get tired of Wilcox Pass and these views of the Athabasca Glacier, will we, SPHP?

Not even if we live to be 100, Loopster!

7-25-23, 2:38 PM – Absent-mindedly, SPHP shook the box, then looking down realized it was empty.

Holy moly, Loop! I’ve eaten an entire box of Dots sitting here. Guess I’ll be on a sugar high now! Sadly, our hour at this splendid perch has flown. Ready to move on?

Hate to leave, SPHP, but more adventures lie ahead, don’t they?

Gobs of ’em, Looper, a whole Dingo Vacation chock full of them!

A final appreciative look, and Lupe was on her way.

**Mount Athabasca** (L), **Mount Andromeda** (Center), **Athabasca Glacier** (far R).

After leaving her fabulous viewpoint, Lupe explored the region closer to the SE end of Mount Wilcox. Great fun, but all too quickly, she arrived back at Wilcox Pass. Still awesome views all around, but just a matter of following the trail back now.

Leaving the Wilcox Ridge viewpoint. **Mount Wilcox** (Center). Photo looks NW.

Back at **Wilcox Pass**. **Mount Wilcox** (L edge), **Tangle Ridge** (Center). Photo looks NW.

7-25-23, 4:06 PM, 52ºF – Warmer, actually quite pleasant, with scarcely even a breeze, when Lupe leapt back onto her pink blanket in the RAV4 at the Wilcox Pass trailhead.

Wilcox Pass, and lots of beautiful places on the way to it! My 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska is off to a terrific start, SPHP!

And still time enough for more sight-seeing yet today, Loop. Hope you’re in the mood for some awesome Canadian Rockies waterfalls, sweet puppy!

I am! Turn the key, and let’s hit the road N. Onward! SPHP, ho!