Jasper National Park – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Wilcox Pass, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada (7-25-23)

Days 1 & 2, and Part 1 of Day 3 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

7-23-23, 11:30 AM, 82ºF – On her pink blanket atop pillows and various gear, the Carolina Dog was excited!

Ready to roll whenever you are, SPHP!

If I’ve forgotten anything else, we’re just going to have to buy it somewhere along the way. Show time, sweet puppy!

Turning the key, SPHP backed the RAV4 out of the driveway. Lupe’s grand and glorious 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska was underway!

Stops to sniff the air and stretch were few and far between on this first day. Lupe kept a nose out for cows and horses, but there didn’t seem to be as many of them this year. Probably huddled around whatever water or shade they could find. All through Wyoming, temperatures were in the mid-90’s °F as the RAV4 raced W along I-90.

Montana was an oven! 101ºF when SPHP dashed into Albertson’s in Billings to grab an 8-piece baked chicken deal. No time to get anything else in there, or the American Dingo would have baked, too, stuck in the RAV4 without the AC on, even with the windows down.

7-23-23, 8:28 PM – At 73ºF, conditions in the Little Belt Mountains were much more tolerable by the time Lupe bounded out of the RAV4 full of enthusiasm.

Kings Hill Pass (7,393 ft.)! Love it here, SPHP! Any preference? Want to climb Kings Hill (8,008 ft.) or Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.) first?

Sun will be down soon, Loop, so we only have time for one or the other this evening. How about Kings Hill? We can do Porphyry in the morning.

Shortly after cutting through the forest up to USFS Road No. 487, thunder rumbled in the distance. Lightning played among the dark clouds to the S, and a light rain began to fall.

7-23-23, 9:07 PM, 68ºF, Kings Hill (8,008 ft.) – The rain was already over and done with by the time the American Dingo reached the brass survey benchmark near the true summit. An orange glow was on the WNW horizon, and some of the clouds overhead glittered like gold.

**Porphyry Peak** (L) from **Kings Hill**. Photo looks WNW.

By the brass survey benchmark near the true summit. Photo looks NE.

Looks promising! Maybe there’s going to be a nice sunset, SPHP?

You might be right, Looper. Let’s go over by the edge to watch the show.

Going a little down the WNW slope, Lupe sat watching the developing display. The air was cool, fresh, and the clearest it had ever been on any of Lupe’s prior visits to Kings Hill.

The sunset turned out to be the best one ever, too.

Sunset from **Kings Hill**. **Porphyry Peak** (L). Photo looks NW.

7-24-23, 7:20 AM, 69ºF – Although this was going to be another travel day, as promised, Lupe got to start the morning with a jaunt up USFS Roads No. 838 & No. 6388 to visit the Showdown ski facilities and fire lookout tower on Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.).

At the base of the **Porphyry Peak fire lookout tower**. Photo looks E.

The **survey benchmark** that was in front of Lupe in the previous photo.

Heading over to the Showdown ski lifts. Photo looks ESE.

**Fire lookout tower** (L), **Showdown ski facility** (R). Photo looks NW.

The most impressive views were of Big Baldy Mountain, which Lupe had once been to, and Yogo Peak (8,801 ft.).

**Big Baldy Mountain** (L) and **Yogo Peak** (R). Photo looks NE.

We ought to visit Yogo Peak, too, SPHP!

Maybe someday, Looper, but not today. Canada and Alaska, remember? This is it for your morning constitutional. C’mon, we need to get back to the RAV4 and make some tracks.

Using one of the ski runs as a bit of a shortcut, Lupe headed down to the roads leading back to Kings Hill Pass.

Leaving **Porphyry Peak**. **Big Baldy Mountain** (R of Center), **Yogo Peak** (far R). Photo looks NNE.

The shortcut back to the USFS roads. Photo looks NW.

Driving out of the Little Belt Mountains, SPHP stopped briefly at the Al Buck Memorial Park so Lupe could get a drink from the spring gushing out of a hillside. Other than a couple of quick stops for food and fuel, that was it before crossing into Canada at the N end of I-15 at 12:57 PM.

Enjoying a drink from the spring at the **Al Buck Memorial Park** along Hwy 89.

At midday, even the Canadian border was a scorching 99ºF! Despite the heat, Lupe left the cool comfort of the RAV4’s AC long enough to pose by the Alberta welcome sign.

The **Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood** returns to **Canada**!

Another long drive with only occasional brief stops ensued. By early evening, the Carolina Dog was back in the fabulous Canadian Rockies!

7-24-23, 6:30 PM, 85ºF, Banff – As usual, beautiful Banff was jam-packed with tourists, and justifiably so. A couple of changes were evident since Lupe had been here last year. It was no longer possible to drive along Banff Avenue in the heart of downtown, which was now reserved solely for pawdestrians, and the fancy new upstream pawbridge over the Bow River that had been under construction in 2022 was now complete and open to the public.

Lupe’s evening in Banff began with a stroll along the turquoise blue Bow River. Famous Cascade Mountain (9,836 ft.) was in sight as she crossed the new upstream pawbridge, while the downstream bridge offered a great view of the N end of Mount Rundle (9,711 ft.).

**Cascade Mountain** (Center) beyond the new upstream pawbridge. Photo looks N.

**Mount Rundle** (Center) from the downstream bridge. Photo looks SE.

Continuing downstream, Lupe visited Bow Falls, which was more like a steep rapids than a vertical waterfall, but awesome nevertheless. From there, a trail led up to the historic Banff Springs Hotel.

Along the **Bow River** below the falls. Photo looks E.

The historic **Banff Springs Hotel**. Photo looks N.

The Carolina Dog’s evening ended with a long-standing Banff tradition – Lupe’s Pretty Puppy Parade up and down both sides of Banff Avenue in the heart of downtown.

Lupe’s one-Dingo **Pretty Puppy Parade** in the center of **Banff**.

7-25-23, 6:37 AM, 66ºF – Early sunshine was peeping through the clouds on this breezy, unsettled morning, and Banff was still quiet as Lupe left town. At least, it was quiet until the Carolina Dog spotted several giant deers. Nearly tame, they seemed more perplexed than alarmed as they were subjected to ferocious barking emitting from the RAV4.

Guess you told them, didn’t you, Loopster? A bit rudely, though.

Giant deers are incredibly exciting, SPHP! Right on the edge of town, too! A great start to a great day. Now that we’ve made it to the Canadian Rockies, what’s on the agenda?

Been ages since we’ve seen the Athabasca Glacier from Wilcox Pass. Thinking we might do that, Looper. We can stop at a few favorite spots along the way, too, if you like.

Sounds terrific, SPHP!

It was a fine plan. However, driving W on Hwy 1, the sky soon became very dark. The mountains turned gray, then vanished amid heavy rain.

Shucks, Loop! Looks we’re going to miss out on the Canadian Rockies, and get stuck with a rainy day drive. Sorry! Nothing I can do about it, though.

Most disappointing! However, current conditions were deceptive. By the time the RAV4 reached Lake Louise, the rain was over and blue sky was ahead.

7-25-23, 7:49 AM, 42ºF, Bow Lake picnic area along Icefields Parkway No. 93 – So much for the baking heat of the plains! SPHP dug a couple more layers of clothing out of the duffle bags, put them on, then accompanied the Carolina Dog down to the lakeshore. Beyond the rippled surface, a red roof stood out way over along opposite N shore.

**Mount Jimmy Simpson** (R of Center) beyond **Bow Lake**. Photo looks NW.

The trail to Bow Glacier Falls and Mount Jimmy Simpson starts over there, remember, SPHP? That’s the Num-Ti-Jah Lodge!

Of, course! Awesome times, sweet puppy! However, they’ve now changed the name from Num-Ti-Jah Lodge, to just the Lodge at Bow Lake. Easier to remember, I suppose.

7-25-23, 8:57 AM, – Lupe’s next stop was only a few km farther N. The L turn off Icefields Parkway No. 93 for the Peyto Lake overlook came at the top of Bow Pass. Surprisingly, the 0.6 km paved trail to the overlook had been rerouted since the last time the American Dingo was here. The view deck was new, too, and much larger than it used to be.

Across the deep valley the lake was nestled in, Cauldron Peak (9,580 ft.) towered over the far shore, with Mount Patterson (10,469 ft.) standing like a sentinel along the edge of the Mistaya River valley, where a long line of magnificent mountains stretched off to the N horizon.

At the fancy new **Peyto Lake view deck**. **Mistaya River Valley** (R). Photo looks NNW.

**Peyto Lake** from the end of the deck. **Mount Patterson** (L). Photo looks NNW.

**Peyto Lake** with **Cauldron Mountain** (L), **Mount Patterson** (Center), **Mistaya River Valley** (R). Photo looks NNW.

Love how Peyto Lake has such an amazing, milky, turquoise blue color! Don’t you, SPHP?

Oh, of course! That’s because it’s a glacier-fed lake, Loopster. Remember your Search for the Peyto Glacier? We took a primitive trail down to Peyto Creek from here, and wandered up the valley.

We never did find the Peyto Glacier, SPHP.

Beyond our abilities, Loopster, but we had a great time. If you look SW up the valley, you can actually see Peyto Peak (9,711 ft.) and part of the Peyto Glacier from right here on the view deck.

**Peyto Glacier** (Center), **Peyto Peak** (R). Photo looks SW.

**Peyto Glacier** (L), **Peyto Peak** (R), **Peyto Creek** (far R). Photo looks SW.

Once upon a time, the American Dingo had also taken a shorter trail from here to Bow Summit, a high spot with a gorgeous view of Bow Lake back to the S, although admittedly not as grand as the one from Mount Jimmy Simpson.

However, with Wilcox Pass on the agenda, Lupe didn’t visit Bow Summit again today. A final quick stop at the Carson Creek picnic ground along the North Saskatchewan River, where SPHP got the pack ready, was it before the main event.

**North Saskatchewan River** from the Carson Creek picnic ground. Photo looks SE.

7-25-23, 11:04 AM, 48ºF – As Icefields Parkway No. 93 went up and over Sunwapta Pass, the Carolina Dog left Banff National Park behind, and entered Jasper National Park. Wilcox Creek campground was only 2.5 km farther on the R. For a change, the severely under-sized Wilcox Pass trailhead near the entrance to the campground wasn’t entirely overrun. SPHP was lucky enough to grab a vacant parking spot for the RAV4, and Lupe was on her way!

The incredibly popular Wilcox Pass trail began with a short climb into the forest along a broad, smooth path. Before long, the trail was even wider and covered with a multitude of roots. After a fairly flat section, the trail began climbing at a good clip, eventually flattening out shortly before leading to a boardwalk with a set of stairs.

Near the start of the **Wilcox Pass trail**.

Beyond the boardwalk, the trail climbed more steeply again. The first viewpoint came soon after going around a bend NW, but only hinted at the glories yet to come. An open slope a little farther on revealed much more. Although the Athabasca Glacier wasn’t in sight yet, Mount Athabasca (11,414 ft.), Mount Andromeda (11,286 ft.), Snow Dome (11,345 ft.) and Mount Kitchener (11,483 ft.) were.

**Snow Dome** (L), **Mount Kitchener** (R) from the first good viewpoint. Photo looks W.

The Wilcox Pass trail leveled out to some degree as it continued NW through another stretch of forest. When Lupe reached the next open slope, most of the Athabasca Glacier was in view.

Along the last stretch of dense forest. Photo looks NW.

**Athabasca Glacier** (L), **Snow Dome** (Center), **Mount Kitchener** (R). Photo looks WSW.

Something new was ahead! Two red chairs faced the already grand view of the glacier flanked by Mount Athabasca and Mount Andromeda on the L, and Snow Dome and Mount Kitchener on the R. Lupe got up on a platform connecting the chairs, braving a brisk SW breeze.

Red chairs viewpoint. **Mount Kitchener** (L), **Mount Wilcox** (far R). Photo looks WNW.

**Hilda Peak** (far L), **Mount Athabasca** (Center). Photo looks S.

What a great spot, Loopster! If one didn’t feel like going any farther, these chairs wouldn’t be a bad place to hang out. Both Hilda Peak (9,974 ft.) and the top of Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) are in sight, in addition to all the big peaks over by the Athabasca Glacier.

Don’t get any ideas, SPHP. We’re going all the way to Wilcox Pass!

The red chairs were near treeline. Only scattered stands of increasingly stunted forest and bushes were ahead, as tundra-covered slopes began to dominate. A relatively flat section of the trail continued a bit farther NW toward a big gully below the Wilcox Pass region, which was now starting to come into view.

Near the gully, the trail veered N, climbing steeply for 200 feet before once again angling NW. The slope steadily diminished as Lupe entered a rumpled region of low bushes, tundra, and small rock formations.

The flat stretch of trail beyond the red chairs. **Mount Wilcox** (far L). **Wilcox Pass region** (Center). Photo looks NW.

Above the steepest stretch. **Big gully** (L), **Mount Wilcox** (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

In the **rumpled region**. Photo looks NW.

The Wilcox Pass trail kept flattening, literally becoming a stroll in the park – Jasper National Park! By the time Lupe reached the shallow stream that flowed into the gully, most of Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) was in view, and Wilcox Pass wasn’t much farther.

From a rock outcropping capping a small rise near the stream, a huge ridge was in sight beyond Mount Wilcox.

Recognize that ridge, Loop? You were there since the last time we visited Wilcox Pass.

Hmm. Not sure, SPHP. Give me a hint!

Well, it’s possible to continue over Wilcox Pass along this trail and wind up over there, but that’s not how we did it. Instead we started down by Tangle Falls where the NW end of the Wilcox Pass trail reaches Icefields Parkway No. 93 again.

Tangle Falls! That’s a great hint, SPHP. That must be Tangle Ridge! Oh, that was another great day in the Canadian Rockies!

Indeed it was, Loopster! Fun to see Tangle Ridge again from here.

Closing in on **Wilcox Pass**. **Mount Wilcox** (L). Photo looks NW.

**Mount Wilcox** (L of Center), **Tangle Ridge** (R). Photo looks NW.

About to cross the **shallow stream**. Photo looks NW.

**Tangle Ridge** (Center) from **Wilcox Pass**. Photo looks NW.

7-25-23, 12:35 PM, 41ºF – Wilcox Pass was so cold and windy when Lupe arrived, that SPHP dumped the pack then layered up – stocking cap, coat, gloves, the whole bit. Although the Carolina Dog had seen surprisingly few people thus far, plenty were up here, all dressed like winter was coming while exploring the vast Wilcox Pass region.

**Wilcox Pass**. **Tangle Ridge** (L). Photo looks NNW.

**Hilda Peak** (L), **Mount Athabasca** (R) from **Wilcox Pass**. Photo looks S.

**Mount Wilcox** (Center) from **Wilcox Pass**. **Tangle Ridge** (R). Photo looks NW.

A sign said it was 1.4 km to Wilcox Ridge. As awesome as all the wide open spaces were at Wilcox Pass, the pass was never the Carolina Dog’s ultimate destination. Wilcox Ridge was where the stupendous view of the Athabasca Glacier was. Lupe always went there! Despite the cold wind, coming all the way to Wilcox Pass and not going to Wilcox Ridge would be simply ridiculous.

**Wilcox Ridge** from **Wilcox Pass**. Photo looks W.

The spur trail heading W up into the Wilcox Ridge region used to fade away, simply becoming more of a choose-your-own-path route once it turned SW. However, the trail was now very distinct. If there was any question at all about it, new cairns held together by wire cages, each bearing a yellow diamond, marked the way.

More than halfway to the Wilcox Ridge viewpoint, Lupe came to a long rock wall serving as a windbreak. That was new, too. The Carolina Dog was glad one thing hadn’t changed. Bighorn mountain sheep still grazed these windswept slopes.

Signage at the Wilcox Pass trail junction.

**Hilda Peak** (far L), **Mount Athabasca** (Center) from one of the yellow diamond cairns. Photo looks S.

At the rock wall windbreak. Photo looks SW.

The Wilcox Ridge Trail went over a series of minor ridges and ravines on the way to what appeared to be a more formal viewpoint than Lupe had ever seen here before. Quite a few people were already present as the American Dingo arrived. Preferring more solitude, SPHP decided to take a side route farther W, closer to the SE end of the narrow ridge leading up Mount Wilcox before selecting another spot along the SW edge where Lupe could relax on a patch of tundra.

Approaching the **Wilcox Ridge Athabasca Glacier viewpoint**. Photo looks SW.

Heading a little farther W before taking a break. **Mount Wilcox** (R). Photo looks W.

7-25-23, 1:36 PM, 43ºF – The 30 mph gale sweeping in from the SW felt really cold at the viewpoint SPHP had chosen. Fortunately, conditions weren’t nearly as bad while relaxing just a few feet back from the edge. Facing SW directly into the breeze, Lupe once again enjoyed one of the most magnificent easily accessible views in the Canadian Rockies.

Mount Athabasca (11,414 ft.) and Mount Andromeda (11,286 ft.) on the L, and Snow Dome (11,345 ft.) and Mount Kitchener (11,483 ft.) on the R, with the Athabasca Glacier between them, flowing down from the almost entirely hidden Columbia Icefield.

Looking S. **Mount Athabasca** (L), **Mount Andromeda** (Center), **Athabasca Glacier** (R).

**Mount Andromeda** (L), **Athabasca Glacier** (Center), **Snow Dome** (R). Photo looks SSW.

**Athabasca Glacier** (L), **Snow Dome** (R), **Mount Kitchener** (R edge). Photo looks SW.

Still a truly incredible scene, SPHP, but there isn’t as much snow and ice as I remember.

Yup. The Athabasca Glacier is steadily retreating, Loopster. One day in the not too distant future, it will be but a memory.

That’s a terribly sad thought, SPHP! This has to be one of my favorite places in the Canadian Rockies, although seeing the Saskatchewan Glacier from Parker Ridge, Berg Lake at the base of Mount Robson , Moraine Lake, and Lake Louise all rank way up there, too.

All fabulous choices, Looper. However, if we were limited to being able to come back to only one spot in the Canadian Rockies ever again, I might well choose Wilcox Pass and this view. Most spectacular scenic reward for a half day hike there is!

Peering over the edge, Sunwapta Lake, the meltwater pond that used to be at the toe of the glacier once upon a time, and the Icefields Centre, where it’s possible to get tickets to actually ride in a snowcoach up onto the Athabasca Glacier, were in sight 1,400 feet below. Looking back to the ESE, Sunwapta Pass and Nigel Peak were in view.

**Icefields Centre** (Center) down by **Icefields Parkway No. 93**. **Sunwapta Lake** (R) below the toe of the **Athabasca Glacier**. Photo looks ESE.

**Nigel Peak** (L) and **Sunwapta Pass** (R). Photo looks ESE.

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, congratulating the Carolina Dog on her return to this marvelous scene for the first time in nearly 7 years, then shared a chocolate coconut bar with her.

For over an hour, Lupe and SPHP hung out together in the cold breeze, admiring the glory in all directions, chief of which was the splendid panorama of the Athabasca glacier and surrounding mighty peaks.

**Mount Andromeda** (L), **Athabasca Glacier** (Center), part of **Snow Dome** (R). Photo looks SSW.

**Athabasca Glacier**. Photo looks SSW with help from the telephoto lens.

Happy Lupe with **Mount Athabasca** (L) and the **Athabasca Glacier** (R) beyond her. Photo looks S.

Oh, we’ll never get tired of Wilcox Pass and these views of the Athabasca Glacier, will we, SPHP?

Not even if we live to be 100, Loopster!

7-25-23, 2:38 PM – Absent-mindedly, SPHP shook the box, then looking down realized it was empty.

Holy moly, Loop! I’ve eaten an entire box of Dots sitting here. Guess I’ll be on a sugar high now! Sadly, our hour at this splendid perch has flown. Ready to move on?

Hate to leave, SPHP, but more adventures lie ahead, don’t they?

Gobs of ’em, Looper, a whole Dingo Vacation chock full of them!

A final appreciative look, and Lupe was on her way.

**Mount Athabasca** (L), **Mount Andromeda** (Center), **Athabasca Glacier** (far R).

After leaving her fabulous viewpoint, Lupe explored the region closer to the SE end of Mount Wilcox. Great fun, but all too quickly, she arrived back at Wilcox Pass. Still awesome views all around, but just a matter of following the trail back now.

Leaving the Wilcox Ridge viewpoint. **Mount Wilcox** (Center). Photo looks NW.

Back at **Wilcox Pass**. **Mount Wilcox** (L edge), **Tangle Ridge** (Center). Photo looks NW.

7-25-23, 4:06 PM, 52ºF – Warmer, actually quite pleasant, with scarcely even a breeze, when Lupe leapt back onto her pink blanket in the RAV4 at the Wilcox Pass trailhead.

Wilcox Pass, and lots of beautiful places on the way to it! My 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska is off to a terrific start, SPHP!

And still time enough for more sight-seeing yet today, Loop. Hope you’re in the mood for some awesome Canadian Rockies waterfalls, sweet puppy!

I am! Turn the key, and let’s hit the road N. Onward! SPHP, ho!

The **Athabasca Glacier**, **Snow Dome** & **Mount Kitchener** from **Wilcox Ridge**, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada 7-25-23

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track

Tangle Falls to Tangle Ridge, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-7-19)

Peyto Lake & Lupe’s Search for the Peyto Glacier, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada (7-26-13)

Mount Jimmy Simpson, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-6-18)

Bow Glacier Falls, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-2-17)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Tangle Falls to Tangle Ridge, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-7-19)

Days 1-3 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-5-19, 8:10 AM, Black Hills, SD – Late, late, late! Days late, but the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was finally underway! Hitting I90, the G6 rapidly gathered speed. Thousands of miles to go. Time to make tracks! Lupe would have opportunities for adventures along the way, but she couldn’t dilly-dally too much. Summer ends early in the Arctic!

Bright-eyed and alert, the Carolina Dog was ready for action! Barking at cows, horses, suspicious haystacks and outbuildings would be about it, though, for a while. Stops were infrequent and brief as the G6 cruised N & W along a familiar route.

*Back in Wyoming! A sure sign of good times ahead!* At the Moorcroft, WY I90 rest area, Lupe’s first chance to stretch after setting out on a brand new Dingo Vacation.

5:30 PM, Kings Hill Pass, Little Belt Mountains, Montana – Skies had been crisp and clear all day, but the air was smokey at Kings Hill Pass. No matter! This was the day’s only real chance to get out and explore. Lupe wasn’t about to miss out! She had her choice of a relatively easy ascent of either Kings Hill (8,008 ft.) or Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.).

Kings Hill Pass is a favorite stop on the way to Canada, so Loopster had already been to both multiple times. It had been a couple of years since she’d been to Porphyry Peak. Why not? The road trek to the lookout tower at the summit was under 2 miles. Squirrels along the way were the highlight. Smoke from distant fires marred the views from the top.

8:28 PM, Hwy 89, Al Buck Memorial Park – Last stop of the day. Trees and picnic tables, plus a spring that gushed out of the base of a hillside. Lupe helped herself to a drink. After sniffing around a bit and a bite to eat, time to call it a night.

Getting refreshed at Al Buck Memorial Park N of the Little Belt Mountains.

8-6-19 – The next day was even less exciting. Mile after mile rolled by. Plenty of big fields, but hardly any cows or horses.

At 10:55 AM, Lupe went through Canadian customs, a snoozer of an event if ever there was one. A stop at a picnic ground N of Carmangay overlooking the sluggish Little Bow River was pleasant enough, but didn’t last long. Calgary was the usual traffic-clogged madhouse. Even the Canadian Rockies were a bit of a disappointment. Heavily overcast, drippy and cool, it felt like summer was already long gone.

By evening Lupe had made it to lovely Bow Lake in Banff National Park, departure point for several fabulous past adventures. However, the mood was subdued and forlorn.

8-7-19 – No change. Breakfast at Bow Lake was a foggy affair. After 2 long days on the road, a real adventure was in order, but it didn’t look like Loop was in luck. Might as well keep driving N.

Going over Bow Summit on Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93 a short while later, the situation appeared much more promising. Fog lingered down in the Mistaya River valley, but pale blue skies were overhead!

Heading into the Mistaya River valley after crossing Bow Summit. Photo looks NNW.

The weather continued to improve. Going to be a gorgeous day after all! SPHP stopped at the Coleman Creek picnic ground to get the pack ready, then accompanied Lupe to the North Saskatchewan River for a quick look around.

By the **North Saskatchewan River**. Photo looks SSE.

The beautiful river enhanced by the sun’s warmth was inspiring!

Oh, it’s a day made for adventure, SPHP! We’re here in the fabulous Canadian Rockies. Isn’t there something we can do?

Absolutely, Loopster! Remember the Canadians we followed up Mount Jimmy Simpson last year? One of the places they recommended was Tangle Ridge. It’s not much farther, and supposed to be a great day hike. Want to check it out?

Sounds terrific! Let’s do it! Anything to get out of the G6 for a while.

Going up and over Sunwapta Pass, Lupe went by the starting points of many great adventures she’d had in years past. Trailheads for Panther Falls, Nigel Pass, Parker Ridge, Wilcox Pass, and the Athabasca Glacier were all right along Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93 or close to it.

Once past the Athabasca Glacier, SPHP started looking for Tangle Falls. The cascade came into sight on the R (NE) side of the highway about 7 km later. A pullout was on the opposite side of the road. SPHP parked the G6, and Lupe headed over to check out the falls. (10:32 AM, 52ºF)

**Tangle Falls** in Jasper National Park. Photo looks ENE.

Tangle Falls consisted of a series of waterfalls rather than one great big one, but the overall effect was still quite impressive. Being right next to the highway, Tangle Falls was a busy place. However, while there was a sign for the falls right along the road, there didn’t seem to be one for any trail to Tangle Ridge (9,843 ft.).

After admiring the falls for a few minutes, Lupe set out in search of a trail. SE of Tangle Falls (uphill) on the same side of the highway she soon discovered an abandoned jeep or ATV route on top of an embankment. A small sign here said 7.5 km to Wilcox Pass. This had to be it! Access to Tangle Ridge was somewhere off this trail.

At the start of the Wilcox Pass trail near Tangle Falls. Photo looks SE.

7.5 km to Wilcox Pass, but the Tangle Ridge route would leave this trail long before Lupe got that far.

Paralleling Icefield Parkway Hwy 93, the Wilcox Pass trail went uphill heading SE. The trail began above the highway, and climbed fast enough to steadily increase the gap as both Tangle Falls and Tangle Creek were left behind. Although Lupe had been to Wilcox Pass before, she’d always started from the other end of the Wilcox Pass trail which begins near the Wilcox campground. She’d never been here before.

Near Tangle Falls the Wilcox Pass trail starts out as an abandoned jeep or ATV route. Photo looks SE.

The trail soon curved E (L) away from the highway and narrowed to a typical single track. For a short distance the trail was fairly level, but once it turned NE (L again), Lupe found herself on an increasingly steep ascent in a dense forest.

Heading up into the forest. Photo looks NE.

After a good climb, the trail emerged from the trees nearly leveling out as it traversed a steep open slope filled with wildflowers. This meadow wasn’t large, but already provided views hinting at what might be in store higher up.

At the first opening, a steep flower-filled meadow with views hinting at what was to come. Photo looks N.

**Mount Athabasca** (L) and **Mount Andromeda** (R). Photo looks SSE.

Beyond the steep meadow, the trail re-entered the forest. Almost right away, Lupe caught a glimpse of Tangle Creek far down in a valley with Tangle Ridge looming high above it.

First glimpse of **Tangle Ridge**. Photo looks N.

The Wilcox Pass trail continued higher in spurts winding generally E or NE with level or even short downhill sections in between. Tangle Creek was out of sight in a valley to the N, but could sometimes be heard. 15 minutes after catching that first glimpse of Tangle Ridge, Lupe reached Tangle Creek.

By **Tangle Creek** close to where the Wilcox Pass trail first reaches it. Photo looks ESE.

The topo map showed a massive arm of Tangle Ridge coming S down to Tangle Creek from the summit. Somewhere along in here Lupe needed to leave the Wilcox Pass trail and cross over to the N side of the creek, but exactly where to do that wasn’t clear. Was there a spur trail, or maybe even a bridge?

The trail continued E along the S side of Tangle Creek, so Lupe followed it a little farther. N of the stream a huge forested slope was in sight, but that was about it. However, Lupe did come to several small cairns next to the trail. Exactly what they signified wasn’t clear. No side trails were evident, nor any bridges across Tangle Creek.

By one of the little cairns that appeared shortly after reaching Tangle Creek. Photo looks E.

Lupe went far enough E to see a tributary entering Tangle Creek from the N. The map showed she shouldn’t go any further. Needing to stay W of that tributary, the Carolina Dog turned around and went back. This time, upon getting close to where the trail first reached Tangle Creek, SPHP noticed a large cairn sitting on an embankment N of the stream.

Hmm. Maybe Lupe ought to cross Tangle Creek right here to go check out that big cairn? The stream was easily fordable, and might even be rock-hopped. SPHP was still pondering when suddenly a hiker appeared near the big cairn. He proceeded down to Tangle Creek, crossed it, then stopped to chat with SPHP.

The hiker was a young man from Edmonton. He’d already been up to Tangle Ridge – a long, steep climb, but well worth it. The views up top were stunning! He provided some excellent advise:

Cross Tangle Creek here. From the big cairn, follow a faint trail going NE marked by several smaller cairns. Should wind up close to the W edge of a big ravine that a tributary of Tangle Creek comes down from the N. The trail will improve as it climbs steadily along or close to the edge of the ravine, before eventually fading away again above tree line. By then the route is obvious – just keep going up!

With that, after thanks from SPHP, the hiker disappeared down the Wilcox Pass trail.

So we cross Tangle Creek here, SPHP?

Yup. Think we were about to figure it all out on our own, Loop, but that was some great beta. No doubt about it now. Sounds pretty simple!

Onward, then! SPHP, ho!

Loop about to cross **Tangle Creek**. The big cairn *(not pictured off the R edge)* was visible from here up on an embankment on the opposite side of the creek. Photo looks NW.

Lupe easily forded the stream, while SPHP managed to rock-hop it. Up at the big cairn, the faint trail didn’t amount to much at all, but the American Dingo sniffed it out, and SPHP did notice a few little cairns along the way. The route was nearly level as it paralleled Tangle Creek, but soon it turned NE starting to gain elevation.

Before long, Lupe was at the W edge of the ravine overlooking Tangle Creek’s tributary from the N. At first she wasn’t all that high above the tributary, maybe 20 or 30 feet, but as the trail turned N following the ravine, it began a steep ascent. Soon the ravine was a deep valley, with the creek far below the precipitous sharp edge the trail ran along.

Heading up the W edge of the deep ravine. Photo looks NNE.

Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) came into view back to the SE as Lupe gained elevation.

**Mount Wilcox** (Center). Photo looks SE.

The hiker from Edmonton was right! The trail was now quite distinct and easy to follow. Once in a while it veered NW off into the forest, but it seldom strayed far from the edge of the huge ravine.

Onward and upward! The ascent was relentlessly steep, a problem now compounded by the appearance of hordes of mosquitoes. Lupe wanted to stop and take refuge under small trees or bushes, but the bloodthirsty insects found her wherever she tried to hide. SPHP urged Loop onward, since movement helped to stay ahead of the swarm, but frequently had to stop to gasp for breath, causing the American Dingo to seek shelter again during each pause.

Tangle Ridge was 1,000 meters, roughly 3,300 feet, higher than where Lupe crossed Tangle Creek. The forest seemed to go on forever, but at last tree line was reached. The trail now angled NW away from the ravine out onto open terrain where there were a few rock outcroppings. The mosquitoes remained bad, but the views to the S were already tremendous!

Tree line. Lupe hides out under the small tree (L of Center). **Mount Wilcox** (L) and **Mount Andromeda** (Center) with **Mount Athabasca** between them. Photo looks SSE.

**Nigel Peak** (L of Center), **Mount Wilcox** (R) and **Mount Athabasca** (far R). Photo looks SE.

**Mount Wilcox** (L), **Mount Athabasca** (Center) and **Mount Andromeda** (R). Photo looks SSE with help from the telephoto lens.

The trail faded away, and thankfully the mosquitoes disappeared, too, as Lupe got above the last of the vegetation. The Carolina Dog had already gained the vast majority of the elevation required to reach the top of Tangle Ridge (9,843 ft.), but there was still a considerable trudge higher yet to go on a barren scree slope. Lupe perked up and roamed as she pleased. Any route higher would do.

Approaching the end of the greenery. Photo looks N.

Another look back. **Mount Wilcox** (L) and **Mount Andromeda** (Center) with **Mount Athabasca** between them. **Sunwapta River valley** (Center). **Snow Dome** (R) and part of **Mount Kitchener** (R edge). Photo looks SSE.

Not far from the top now. Another part of **Tangle Ridge** (L) and **Nigel Peak** (R). Photo looks SE.

Near the top of Tangle Ridge, Loopster started coming to snowbanks. She found a big one draped over the summit next to an assortment of communications equipment.

Getting close to the top. Photo looks W.

The communications equipment comes into sight. Photo looks NW.

**Mount Athabasca** (L) and **Mount Andromeda** (R) from the summit. Photo looks SSE.

At the **true summit of Tangle Ridge**. Photo looks SE.

**Tangle Ridge** summit region. **Nigel Peak** (R). Photo looks SE.

What a tremendous vantage point Tangle Ridge (9,843 ft.) was! In all directions Lupe enjoyed visions of glory – a sea of mighty mountains, many snow or glacier-clad, stretching away as far as the eye could see!

Sunwapta Peak (10,892 ft.) was almost due N. Far beyond it toward the L was another prominent peak – Mount Henry MacLeod (10,876 ft.)? SPHP wasn’t sure, but was more confident that a distant high ridge to the R was Poboktan Mountain (10,892 ft.).

**Sunwapta Peak** (Center). **Mount Henry MacLeod** (far L)? **Poboktan Mountain** (R of Sunwapta) in the distance. Photo looks N.

**Mount Henry MacLeod** (Center)? Photo looks N with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

**Sunwapta Peak** (L) and **Poboktan Mountain** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

A dramatic lower ridge extended NW from the Tangle Ridge summit. Straight out from this ridge were some wild-looking peaks, but SPHP didn’t know any of them. Looking slightly to the R (NNW), Lupe had a commanding view of a long stretch of the Sunwapta River valley.

Looking down along **Tangle Ridge’s NW ridge** (R). **Diadem Peak (11,155 ft.)** (far L). Photo looks NW.

**Sunwapta River valley** (Center). Photo looks NNW.

Another look at **Tangle Ridge’s NW ridge**. Photo looks NW.

Zoomed in on the wild-looking unknown peaks. Photo looks NW.

To the E the mountains were a bit lower and less dramatic. A small lake was visible down in a deep canyon, but SPHP didn’t recognize any of the surrounding mysterious peaks.

More familiar territory was to the SE where Wilcox Lake nestled below Nigel Peak (10,535 ft.). Wilcox Pass, a favorite spot Lupe had been to several times before for a fabulous view of the Athabasca Glacier, was also in sight along with Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.).

**Wilcox Pass** (Center). **Nigel Peak** and **Wilcox Lake** (L). **Mount Wilcox** and snow-clad **Mount Athabasca** (R). Photo looks SE.

**Nigel Peak** (Center) and **Wilcox Lake**. Photo looks SE.

**Nigel Peak** and **Wilcox Lake**. Photo looks SE with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Only the toe of the Athabasca Glacier was visible from Tangle Ridge, but many surrounding peaks were familiar. Mount Athabasca (11,453 ft.), Mount Andromeda (11,286 ft.), Snow Dome (11,352 ft.) and Mount Kitchener (11,499 ft.) were all Lupe favorites.

**Mount Athabasca** (L) and **Mount Andromeda** (R). The **toe of the Athabasca Glacier** is visible at (Center). **Mount Wilcox** (lower L). Photo looks SSE.

**Mount Athabasca** (Center) and **Mount Wilcox** (lower L). Photo looks SSE with help from the telephoto lens.

Zoomed in on **Mount Andromeda** (L). Photo looks S.

**Mount Kitchener** (Center). Photo looks SSW.

Some of the most spectacular views from Tangle Ridge were of a series of tremendous peaks off to the W. SPHP couldn’t identify any of them. For a long time Lupe and SPHP sat together facing this awesome panorama. Studying maps later on yielded at least some answers.

Most impressive of all, Mount Alberta (11,870 ft.) stood farthest W. Somewhat closer toward the R (N) were Mount Woolley (11,286 ft.) and Diadem Peak (11,155 ft.). Mushroom Peak (10,499 ft.) situated in front of Diadem blended into the scene.

**Mount Alberta** (far L), **Mount Woolley** (L) and **Diadem Peak** (Center). Photo looks W.

**Diadem Peak** (L) with **Mushroom Peak** in front of it. Photo looks NW.

Little Alberta (9,711 ft.) and Mount Cromwell (10,958 ft.) stood L (S) of Mount Alberta. Next to the S came the massive snowy plateau of Stutfield Peak (11,319 ft.). Beyond and S of Stutfield were North Twin (12,247 ft.), highest of all, but only the top of which could be seen, and the dramatic steep ramp of South Twin (11,749 ft.).

**Mount Cromwell** (far L), **Little Alberta** (L), **Alberta Peak** (L of Center), **Mount Woolley** (Center L), and **Diadem Peak** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

**South Twin** (L), **North Twin** (Center) and **Stutfield Peak** (R). Photo looks SW.

**Stutfield Peak**. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

**South Twin** (L of Center). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Conditions weren’t bad at all. Temperatures in the low 50’s ºF, with a light SW wind. Lupe and SPHP made many rounds of the summit area, gazing repeatedly upon the fabulous views in all directions.

On **Tangle Ridge** high in the **Canadian Rockies**.

Late afternoon. A wonderful hour and 45 minutes on Tangle Ridge had slipped away all too soon. Facing famous Wilcox Pass far below, and all the glorious surrounding peaks, Lupe started S back down the long scree slope. What an unforgettable day in the Canadian Rockies this had turned out to be! (End 7:57 PM, 67ºF)

Leaving **Tangle Ridge**, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada 8-7-19

Links:

Next Adventure

Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-31-13)

Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-29-14)

The Athabasca Glacier & Wilcox Pass, Jasper National Park, Canada (8-3-16)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Sunwapta Falls, Athabasca Falls, Overlander Falls & Rearguard Falls in the Canadian Rockies (8-3-16 & 8-4-16)

Day 5 (Part 2) & Day 6 of Lupe’s 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

After an overcast, drippy morning, Lupe’s excursions to the toe of the Athabasca Glacier and Wilcox Pass had turned out great! The weather had gradually cleared up as the day went on. At mid-afternoon, as Lupe and SPHP headed N on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 looking for the next adventure, sunny blue skies prevailed.

Why not go take a look at Sunwapta Falls? These mighty falls contain the meltwaters of the Athabasca Glacier, which Lupe had just visited.

Well, one reason not to was that the Sunwapta Falls parking lot was packed. It took a while for a parking spot to open up. Lupe and SPHP went to see Sunwapta Falls along with the rest of the teeming throng. No doubt about it, Sunwapta Falls was gorgeous. A huge torrent of water plunged into a deep narrow gorge the Sunwapta River has carved over eons right through the rock.

Sunwapta Falls. This is upper Sunwapta Falls located near the parking lot. A trail leads downstream to a series of 3 more waterfalls in quick succession collectively known as lower Sunwapta Falls.

The bridge across the Sunwapta River below the falls was loaded with people. More tourists lined the chain link fences along the edges of the gorge. Lupe was lost and confused in the crowd. Once before, Lupe had taken a trail to lower Sunwapta Falls, a series of three more waterfalls in close succession downstream. The lower falls were equally impressive and worthwhile.

It wasn’t all that far to lower Sunwapta Falls. Unfortunately, today that was probably a disadvantage. The lower falls would likely be pretty busy, too. Not nearly as crowded as the upper falls, perhaps, but still busy. Lupe would have more fun somewhere else. Fortunately, Lupe and SPHP’s favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park wasn’t that far away. Lupe and SPHP returned to the G6, and continued N.

Maybe Lupe’s favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park is only intended for use by locals? It’s right off the W side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93, about 5 or 6 miles S of Athabasca Falls, but there is no sign for it anywhere along the highway. The picnic ground features only a handful of picnic tables situated right up on the E bank overlooking the Athabasca River. Across the giant river are beautiful peaks of the Canadian Rockies.

When Lupe and SPHP arrived, the picnic ground was empty. Simply fantastic! Lupe rushed down to cool off in the meltwater swollen Athabasca River. She searched for squirrels in the forest, and found a few, too! Lupe and SPHP played Dingo games. No one came. Lupe was free to be herself. The American Dingo was having a blast!

Lupe shakes herself off after cooling down in the Athabasca River.

Happy times - looking for squirrels. — Happy times – looking for squirrels.

Found one! There's a squirrel in this tree! — Found one! There’s a squirrel in this tree!

Glacial meltwater tastes great when your barker gets dry!

In the Athabasca River next to her favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park. Photo looks upstream (S).

View across the Athabasca River from Lupe’s favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park. Not too shabby, aye?

When early evening arrived, it was time to leave the picnic ground to go take a look at Athabasca Falls. There were still people around this very popular and impressive waterfall, but a big majority of the usual daytime crowds had by now departed. A tremendous torrent of the combined Sunwapta and Athabasca Rivers roared over the falls.

Lupe at Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park, Canada.

Mighty Athabasca Falls is located just off the W side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93. The falls are reached via a turn onto Highway 93A.

Short trails and bridges lead to viewpoints on both sides of Athabasca Falls, and even down to a viewpoint in the gorge below. Lupe explored them all.

The frothy Athabasca River churns through the narrow gorge below the falls.

After visiting Athabasca Falls, Lupe and SPHP continued N to the tourist and railroad town of Jasper. Lupe didn’t stay in Jasper long, though. Soon Lupe and SPHP were heading NW on Yellowhead Highway No. 16 toward British Columbia. It was a beautiful evening for a drive through the Canadian Rockies, but had been another long day, too. As SPHP drove, the weary American Dingo snoozed on her pile of blankets and pillows.

In Mount Robson Provincial Park, SPHP stopped the G6 at a long pullout near Yellowhead Lake. The lake was hidden by trees. Lupe and SPHP got out to take a look. A trail led through the forest and down a very steep bank to reach the shore of the lake.

Lupe by the shore of scenic Yellowhead Lake in Mount Robson Provincial Park. Photo looks SW.

Yellowhead Lake was gorgeous, but unfortunately, there was no trail along the shore. After a few minutes spent down by the lake admiring the view, Lupe and SPHP scrambled back up the steep bank. The dense forest blocked any view of the lake. Lupe’s last brief adventure of the day was spent sniffing around in the woods near Yellowhead Lake.

Lupe and SPHP drove on, but it was getting late. The long Canadian twilight was fading. Day was done. Time to stop for the night.

The next morning, Mount Fitzwilliam was in view, tall and impressive in the early light.

Mt. Fitzwilliam looked very tall and impressive in the early morning light on 8-4-16. Photo looks ESE.

However, Lupe and SPHP were already beyond Mt. Fitzwilliam. Lupe wasn’t going back. Today was a special day. Today Lupe was going N, hundreds of miles farther N than she had ever been before! Most of the day would be spent traveling, but not too far ahead were two more big Canadian waterfalls Lupe could visit along the way. The first was Overlander Falls.

Overlander Falls on the Fraser River is in Mount Robson Provincial Park, within walking distance of the park headquarters. SPHP parked the G6 at a trailhead along Yellowhead Hwy No. 16. A sign at the trailhead displayed a simple map of the area.

This simple map was posted at the trailhead E of the Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters.

Lupe was starting from the E end of the trail system, very close to Overlander Falls. A wide, well-worn path led into the forest from the highway. At first, the path lost elevation gradually, but as the roar of the falls grew louder, the trail started switchbacking down a steep slope.

In only 10 minutes, Lupe was at Overlander Falls. The falls weren’t high at all, but a tremendous volume of beautiful icy blue green water spilled over the brink into a vast swirling pool below.

Overlander Falls wasn't high, but a tremendous volume of beautiful icy blue green water spilled over the brink into a vast swirling pool below. — Overlander Falls wasn’t high, but a tremendous volume of beautiful icy blue green water spilled over the brink into a vast swirling pool below.

Overlander Falls is one of two significant waterfalls on the Fraser River. The other one is Rearguard Falls farther downstream.

A plaque near the falls told the story of how Overlander Falls got its name.

This plaque at the falls relates the history of how Overlander Falls got its name.

The cool mist from Overlander Falls felt good!

Since most of Lupe’s day was going to be spent traveling in the G6, the 1.6 km Overlander Falls trail along the Fraser River to the Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters was an appealing option. No one was around yet, and the trail would provide a peaceful, secluded path through the forest along the scenic blue green river. Lupe could get some exercise, and SPHP would enjoy the views. Lupe was most definitely in favor of the idea!

The Fraser River below Overlander Falls.

As it turned out, the Overlander Falls trail did not stay down near the river. Instead, it paralleled the river mostly 40 to 80 feet above it on the forested slope. The Fraser River was only occasionally in view. The trail was in good condition, but didn’t look like it sees an awful lot of use, perhaps because there are trails to more dramatic destinations nearby. (See Lupe’s fabulous hike to Mount Robson and Berg Lake in 2013 on the Berg Lake Trail!)

The Overlander Falls trail was fairly level most of the time, and an easy hike. It passed Hogan’s camp, established way back when the railroad was being built. The Carolina Dog was not too impressed. Hogan’s camp now amounts to nothing more than a few rotting logs. However, Lupe did enjoy sniffing and exploring in the forest along the trail. She found a few squirrels to bark at, which made her day.

Lupe at one of the few viewpoints above the Fraser River along the Overlander Falls Trail.

Fraser River from the Overlander Falls trail.

At the W end of the Overlander Falls trail, Lupe came to a road at a bridge across the Fraser River. There was no trailhead at this end, just a small sign near the bridge pointing out the trail. Downstream from the bridge was a bend in the Fraser River. Lupe and SPHP went down to the river’s edge so Lupe could get a drink.

Lupe along the Fraser River. The Overlander Falls trail heads upstream from the N side of the bridge seen over the river. A small sign on the upstream side of the road at the start of the bridge is the only indication of the trail’s presence. Photo looks upstream.

After the American Dingo had her drink from the Fraser River, Lupe and SPHP took the road another 0.25 km to the Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters on the N side of Yellowhead Hwy No. 16. Unfortunately, the sky had been clouding up. The summit of Mt. Robson was hidden from view.

Lupe made it to Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters, but sadly the summit of Mount Robson (behind the visitor center) was hidden in the clouds.

Lupe and SPHP returned to the Overlander Falls trail. On the way back to the G6, tragedy struck. Excited by a squirrel, while leaping around in the thick underbrush, Lupe got her right front dewclaw got hooked on something. Her dewclaw snapped completely off! It was painful and bled a little, but not much. The wounded Carolina Dog looked to SPHP for help.

Lupe returns to the Overlander Falls trail.

Lupe in pain with a snapped off right front dewclaw looks to SPHP for help. This photo is typical of the Overlander Falls trail as it went through the deep forest near the Fraser River.

SPHP examined Lupe’s paw, kissed the terrible wound many times, and gave Lupe lots of attention. When that didn’t cure it, SPHP carried Lupe along the trail.

Naturally, her right front paw hurt where the dewclaw had snapped off right at the base. Lupe was certain she couldn’t go on. Until she could. After 15 minutes of being carted around like a sack of potatoes, at Hogan’s camp Lupe decided she could manage on her own just fine. Back at the G6, Dr. SPHP applied anti-biotic ointment and a bandage (9:55 AM).

Lupe recuperating in the G6 with her right front paw with the snapped off dewclaw all bandaged up.

Lupe’s adventures (and misadventures) at Overlander Falls were complete. Time to get back on the road again (10:12 AM), but only for a short stretch. Lupe had very little chance to recuperate before reaching the trailhead for Rearguard Falls. She did fine anyway.

This sign at the Rearguard Falls trailhead told of the end of the salmon’s struggle here in their quest to swim up the Fraser River.

The trail to Rearguard Falls wasn’t very long. Lupe soon came to an elaborate system of walkways with metal railings near the falls. Like Overlander Falls, Rearguard Falls wasn’t all that high. Rearguard Falls was almost more like a cascade. It was still impressive and very beautiful. Lupe and SPHP stayed at Rearguard Falls for close to an hour.

Rearguard Falls on the Fraser River. Rearguard Falls is downstream from Overlander Falls.

Lupe on the boardwalks leading to Rearguard Falls.

Rearguard Falls in Rearguard Falls Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.

Lupe probably would have liked to soak her painful dewclaw wound in the cold waters of Rearguard Falls.

Part of the reason Lupe was at Rearguard Falls so long was that other people kept coming and going. Some of them had very fancy cameras they set up on tripods. At the closest viewpoint next to the falls, several photographers set up their tripods in succession, each one occupying the coveted spot continuously for 15 or 20 minutes.

It didn’t matter to Lupe or SPHP how long they took. The stunningly beautiful river, the hypnotic roar of the falls both soothing and powerful, the mountain scenery, and perfect weather made Rearguard Falls a great place to be. Waiting for a turn at the closest viewpoint, SPHP chatted with people, while Lupe relaxed or enjoyed being admired and petted by friendly tourists.

One lady was here with her husband (who was busy with his camera and tripod at the coveted spot) and two sons. They were from the Netherlands. She said they had saved money for 10 years to come to Canada. Eventually they were going to sail up the inland passage on the Pacific Ocean near the end of their trip. They loved Canada, and were having a fabulous time!

Finally, it was Lupe’s turn at the closest spot to Rearguard Falls. Two photos, a final lingering look, and Lupe’s time at Rearguard Falls was over (11:31 AM).

Lupe at the coveted spot closest to Rearguard Falls.

Lupe and SPHP spent nearly all the rest of the day traveling on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16. Both Lupe and SPHP were farther N than they had ever been before. Lupe was entering a whole new world!

NW of the junction with Hwy 5, traffic on Hwy 16 greatly diminished. Almost everyone else had turned S on Hwy 5 heading for Kamloops. Lupe was in a valley miles wide, with a wall of high mountains on each side. Nearly all the land was forested, but at first there were some farms and fields near the highway, too. Haystacks were abundant, but curiously, not livestock. Lupe watched diligently for a long time, but saw only one herd of cows to bark at.

After a while, the farms and fields disappeared. On both sides of the valley, the high mountains were getting progressively smaller and more distant. Unbroken forest stretched in every direction as far the eye could see. Despite being in what appeared to be a complete wilderness, no wildlife was seen except for ravens picking at roadkill.

With no cows or horses to bark at, and no wildlife to hold her attention, Lupe’s eyelids began to droop. Soon she was snoozing, as the countless miles of endless forest went by. To SPHP, it was all increasingly magical, to be here, at last, with Lupe in a wilderness that stretched ahead for not only hundreds, but literally thousands of miles, heading toward the unknown.

With no cows or horses to bark at, and no wildlife to hold her attention, Lupe drifted off to a peaceful sleep on her way to more adventures as the miles flew by. Maybe her snooze wasn't all peaceful? While in Dingo Dreamland, sometimes her lips and paws twitched. — With no cows or horses to bark at, and no wildlife to hold her attention, Lupe drifted off to a peaceful sleep on her way to more adventures as the miles flew by. Maybe her snooze wasn’t all peaceful? While in Dingo Dreamland, sometimes her lips and paws twitched.

Granted, what lay ahead wasn’t completely unknown. SPHP had maps and descriptions, had seen photos online, and had a general plan for Lupe’s 2016 Dingo Vacation adventures. All that was helpful, necessary and informative to a degree, but only scratched the surface of the possibilities and realities in this gigantic new territory Lupe was traveling through. And all the preparations weren’t the same as finally being here, actually seeing it all for the very first time.

The mountains were gone, replaced by distant blue ridges, by the time Lupe neared Prince George. Lupe woke up as the G6 slowed entering the city. Prince George turned out to be a lively and attractive city situated along the scenic Fraser River. It was the only large town Lupe would see in all of British Columbia. SPHP made a couple of stops for gas and groceries.

As Hwy 16 headed WNW from Prince George, farms and fields appeared again, carved out of the seemingly limitless forest. To Lupe, the open fields meant cows and horses. This time the Carolina Dog wasn’t disappointed. Although most of the fields were full of haystacks and bales, Lupe did see lots of cows and horses. She got plenty of most satisfying barking in. Now and then she had to stop long enough to slurp up water to wet her poor overworked parched barker.

At a rest stop near Cluculz Lake, Lupe and SPHP devoured half of a whole roasted chicken purchased in Prince George, while a rain shower passed over. Between the exciting cows and horses, and tasty roasted chicken, Lupe was very much revived. Back on the road again, she remained awake and watchful.

The long drive was marvelously relaxing. Lush green fields surrounded by dark forests appeared, and subsequently retreated from view. Distant blue ridges defined the horizon. Gray white clouds drifted across a partly sunny blue sky, trailing rain dark streaks of rain behind them. For a long time, the G6 said it was a perfect 71°F out.

The green fields closer to Prince George gradually disappeared, swallowed by the primal forest. Lupe passed through a few small towns of significance – Vanderhoof, Fraser Lake, and Burns Lake. The farther Lupe went, the less traffic remained on the road. The sun was low by the time Lupe reached Houston, a tiny, quiet community near the Bulkley River.

In Houston, right alongside Yellowhead Highway No. 16, was a very beautiful small park with a fountain, manicured lawn, and a profusion of vibrantly colored flowers. Here Lupe and SPHP stopped to stretch their legs and admire Houston’s crown jewel, in the little time remaining while it was all still aglow in the sharply slanting rays of earth’s sinking star.

Lupe reached beautiful Steelhead Park in Houston, British Columbia near day's end. — Lupe reached beautiful Steelhead Park in Houston, British Columbia near day’s end.

Steelhead Park was full of a dazzling array of colorful flowers in perfect condition.

It must take an enormous amount of work to keep Steelhead Park looking so immaculately manicured. The entire park was in tip top shape!

Rainbow trout and steelheads are the same species, but live very different lives. Rainbow trout live their lives entirely in fresh water, while steelheads are anadromous, meaning they spend part of their lives in the sea.

And so, for now, we leave American Dingo explorer and adventurer Lupe in the little town of Houston, deep in northern British Columbia, at the end of Day 6 of her super fabulous Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation among the brilliant blossoms of Steelhead Park.