Jasper National Park – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

SPHP Unglued, Civilization & Lupe’s Favorite Picnic Ground, British Columbia & Alberta, Canada (9-12-23 thru 9-14-23)

Part 2 of Day 52 & Days 53 and 54 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

9-12-23, 11:05 AM, 55ºF – After crossing the bridge over the Racing River, the Alaska Highway passed near Racing Peak (4,409 ft.) before curving SE and proceeding up the McDonald Creek valley. During a long climb into Stone Mountain Provincial Park, Lupe had a spectacular view of the huge valley flanked by towering peaks of the Muskwa Ranges.

**McDonald Creek valley**. Photo looks S.

The highway leveled out at Summit Pass. A lone caribou spotted near the W end of Summit Lake instantly got the Carolina Dog all excited. At the E end of the lake, SPHP pulled into the campground’s day use picnic area. Sniffing along Summit Lake’s shoreline, Lupe had a terrific view of Mount Saint George (7,402 ft.).

**Mount Saint George** (L) from **Summit Lake**. Photo looks SW.

9-12-23, 12:11 PM, Summit Lake, Stone Mountain Provincial Park –

Mount Saint George! We weren’t that far from the summit when the weather changed and chased us off the mountain. Remember, SPHP?

Oh, yeah! My poles started buzzing, Looper. Never did that before or since. Pretty good indication that it’s time to vamoose!

Mount Saint George was a fun mountain, SPHP. We ought to try climbing it again.

It was fun, Loop, but I’m not so sure we’re capable of getting to the true summit. Looked dicey by our standards, even before the fog rolled in and hid the last critical part from view. An awful lot of steep talus up there to contend with.

A Dingo can dream, can’t she, SPHP? Anyway, how about lunch? Did you check? Do we have any more Chef Boyardee spaghetti?

I did. We’re really low on supplies, Loopster. If you want anything more than Taste of the Wild, you’ll have to wait until we get to Fort Nelson.

Onward then, SPHP! I’ll be famished by the time we get that far.

E of the campground, it was all downhill as the Alaska Highway began leaving the mountains. Another lone caribou provoked a second shrill barking frenzy. One last photo by the Stone Mountain Provincial Park sign as Lupe left the park, and that was it for the rest of the day.

Second **caribou** dashing across the highway. Photo looks E.

By the **Stone Mountain Provincial Park** sign. Photo looks NW.

Once out of the Muskwa Ranges, a haze was in the air. Wildfire smoke again! Not terrible, but it got worse on the way to Fort Nelson, marring the views of the beautiful mountains receding in the rear view mirror.

9-12-23, 2:39 PM, 66ºF – After fueling up the RAV4 and buying supplies sufficient to satisfy both SPHP’s and an American Dingo’s hunger in Fort Nelson, it was back to the Alaska Highway again.

Now far from the mountains, the highway headed S featuring long, flat stretches frequently interrupted by big ridges and dips into the valleys between them. With distant views of the northern Rocky Mountains off to the W largely hidden by smoke, there was little for SPHP to do other than keep cruising while Lupe dozed on her pink blanket.

All was well, until SPHP saw a couple of men idly standing out in a field. Both were wearing vests with lime green stripes like might be seen on construction workers. When the RAV4 got very close, one began waving frantically, as if trying to trying to attract SPHP’s attention.

A little late with the waving bit. A moment later, the RAV4 was already past them. The Alaska Highway wasn’t crowded by any means, but as the only major road in the more than 200 miles between Fort Nelson and Fort St. John, it was far from deserted, too. Whatever these guys needed, someone else would be along within just a few minutes. Certainly didn’t look like they were in any kind of an emergency situation. They’d just been standing there aimlessly in the field.

Turned out they didn’t want anyone else’s help. Soon SPHP was slowing down, and pulling over to the side of the highway.

What’s going on, SPHP? Why are we stopping here?

Police, Loopster.

Flashing lights pulled in behind the RAV4 moments later.

Why didn’t you stop? Can’t you see that I’m dressed as a police officer?

Sorry, the police don’t dress like you are where I come from. What’s the problem, anyway?

Clocked you at 102 kmph in a 70 kmph zone.

70! The speed limit is 100!

No. You need to pay more attention. There’s a sign back there that says 70. I’ll need to see your license and registration.

Twenty minutes later, the RAV4 was heading S again, but not as fast as SPHP’s disposition.

How bad was it, SPHP?

$196 CAN for that, Loop! What a racket! Not a dang thing out here except some little no name dirt side road with no traffic that they’ve cleverly put a 70 kmph speed limit next to. That’s not even 45 mph, way out here in the wilderness on the Alaska Highway. Criminitly! We’re more than an hour out of Fort Nelson. Nothing’s going on out here!

Well, it’s just like the rock that cracked the windshield yesterday, SPHP. Nothing you can do about it now.

Mentioning the so recently cracked windshield really didn’t help matters much. SPHP came unglued.

70 kmph! Utterly ridiculous! They could fine 99.9% of the traffic that goes by here at that rate, Looper. Heck, they could fine 90% of the traffic at 110 kmph. How do we wind up with a ticket, anyway? The RAV4 is the slowest vehicle on the road. Everyone and his brother is constantly roaring by us. Canadians pay no attention at all to their speed limits. I’m forever pulling over to let others pass, so we don’t have them breathing down our necks.

SPHP fumed. SPHP raged. The American Dingo wisely tuned it all out, and went back to sleep.

An hour of fury was all even SPHP could take. Resilience is key! Gotta be able to roll with the punches. Might as well look on the bright side. $25 CAN reduction in the fine, if paid online within 30 days. That’s the new plan. Why not? Can’t fight it, anyway. The rest would just have to be considered Lupe’s donation to the lovely community of Fort Nelson. Other than that one wayward rock, and this fine, everything else about Canada had been totally awesome.

9-13-23, 7:26 AM, 55ºF – It had been years since Lupe had been on Hwy 29 between the Alaska Highway and Chetwyn. The view of the Peace River valley from a rest area half an hour in was a grand and familiar one despite a touch of wildfire smoke still in the air, yet wasn’t entirely the same as other times the American Dingo had been here.

Wow! It all looks so … parched, SPHP!

Maybe that’s normal this time of year, Loop? Or maybe it’s just because 2023 has been the year of the Arctic Apocalypse? Everything was always so lush and green and beautiful whenever we’ve been here before.

In any case, this was another travel day, a more serious one without any extended romps like the Racing River had been yesterday. For the most part, Lupe stared out the window at the fabulous scenery whizzing by, sometimes snoozing on her pink blanket for a while.

The Carolina Dog did get to enjoy a brief stop at Moberly Lake. After driving through Chetwyn, SPHP remembered to watch for the turn to Teapot Mountain along Hwy No. 97 on the way to Prince George, but unfortunately no longer recognized it.

A couple of stops for fuel and supplies in Prince George (following which, Lupe eagerly helped SPHP devour most of a delicious roasted chicken), and the long drive continued, now heading SE up the Fraser River valley on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16.

9-13-23, 6:04 PM – Lupe was already well beyond McBride, when a green field of surpassing beauty and tremendous interest caught her eye.

SPHP, please stop! We’re in cattle country!

Knowing how much Lupe loved seeing cows, SPHP had to comply.

Cattle in the **Fraser River valley**. Photo looks SW.

It was good to have stopped. Those cows mooing softly while grazing in their green pasture marked the end of the peace and tranquility of the far N on this Dingo Vacation. A short while later, at the junction with Hwy No. 5 coming up from Kamloops, everything changed.

Transformed by the hectic throngs of civilization, Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 was suddenly chock full of semi-trucks, motorhomes, and vehicles of all types engaged in a frantic rush to “get there”, wherever “there” may have been. Having no choice, SPHP joined the relentless rat race while a steady stream of traffic zoomed impatiently past the RAV4. The abrupt return to civilization was a somewhat unnerving shock after having practically owned every road for weeks on end.

Even so, a magnificent sight soon appeared ahead, one Lupe hadn’t seen in many years due to overcast skies virtually every time she’d been by this stretch of highway since visiting Berg Lake long ago.

Stop here, too, SPHP! Mount Robson (12,989 ft.) is in the clear!

SPHP obeyed again; not once, but twice. First at the park entrance, and then a second time a bit farther on at the visitor centre.

Entering **Mount Robson Provincial Park**. **Mount Robson** (L). Photo looks NE.

**Mount Robson**. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

At the **visitor centre**. Photo looks NE.

9-13-23, 6:54 PM, Mount Robson Provincial Park – The visitor centre was closed when the American Dingo arrived, but that didn’t matter in the least. With the alpenglow at its peak on the mountain, Lupe went for a stroll behind the visitor centre to enjoy this rare and stunning moment.

**Mount Robson** (Center) near sunset. Photo looks NE.

9-13-23, 7:20 PM – Light was fading fast as Lupe headed into a familiar dim forest on the wide, smooth path that would be her only significant outing of the day. Traffic noise faded away completely during the few minutes it took to get down to the small, but powerful Overlander Falls. The roar of the falls, and the deep, swirling blue-green pool below it were mesmerizing.

9-14-23, 1:50 AM, Yellowhead Hwy No. 16, Overlander Falls pullout – Still some traffic, even at this hour. What peace and darkness existed, came to a sudden end when a semi-truck pulled in right behind the RAV4, then proceeded to idle with headlights on. Nevertheless, taking no action, SPHP soon fell back asleep.

9-14-23, 5:10 AM, 37ºF – Gah! That truck was still here, still idling with its lights on. SPHP had had enough. The night proved infinitely black once back on the highway. However, a hint of dawn was in the E by the time Lupe reached the Alberta border, entering Jasper National Park.

9-14-23, 7:17 AM, 32ºF – Not a soul was around when SPHP pulled into the little parking lot at Lupe’s favorite picnic ground along the Athabasca River. Roughly 5 miles S of mighty Athabasca Falls, this always used to be a quiet spot, blissfully ignored by the countless tourists streaming by along Icefields Parkway No. 37. However, that was back before there had been a picnic ground sign. A year or two ago, the park service had finally put one up.

Better enjoy our solitude while it lasts, Loopster! I bought some more Chef Boyardee spaghetti back in Prince George. Want me to heat some up?

Yes, please! I’ll grab a picnic table overlooking the river, SPHP.

A gorgeous, icy blue, the Athabasca River was much lower now than it had been back in early August when virtually the entire riverbed had been a swollen, silt-laden, gray torrent.

Waiting for the spaghetti to heat up. Photo looks SW.

Get enough spaghetti, Loop?

Is there more, SPHP? I’m certainly willing to do whatever I can to help!

No more spaghetti, but I bought some Danishes, too.

Without hesitation, the Sweet-Tooth Puppy made a valiant contribution to the demise of the Danishes. Lupe licked her chops.

Now what, SPHP? Can we stay a while, and look for squirrels?

Sure can, Loopster. In fact, we’re going to hang out here while I catch up the trip journal. I’m way behind on it.

For the first time ever, the Carolina Dog got to spend nearly the entire day at her favorite picnic ground along the Athabasca River. However, her days of carefree barking at squirrels here without bothering anyone were over. People soon began arriving, and the once common solitude at this formerly overlooked spot never returned.

Sometimes in the RAV4, sometimes sitting on the red chairs overlooking the Athabasca River, SPHP worked on the trip journal. Lupe lay nearby, frequently getting up to wander about the forest a bit before returning. She helped SPHP polish off the rest of the roasted chicken and countless potato chips, but had no interest in SPHP’s Allsorts licorice.

As hours drifted by, the sun slowly sailed around to the W.

9-14-23, 6:41 PM, 75ºF, Lupe’s favorite picnic ground –

Enough writing! Let’s go down to the river, Loopster.

Are you all caught up, SPHP? Took long enough.

Yes, it did, and no, I’m still not caught up. Guess I need to be more concise.

You must be writing an epic tale, SPHP.

It often seems that way to me, Loop. You’re the first to notice, though, so maybe not. Hardly matters. C’mon, to the mighty Athabasca River!

Down on the riverbed, Lupe leapt up onto a boulder, a sharp peak of the stunning Canadian Rockies beyond rising dramatically into the blue.

Down by the **Athabasca River**. Photo looks SSW.

What’s the name of that mountain, SPHP?

It’s either Mount Fryatt (11,017 ft.) or Mount Christie (10,236 ft.), Loop, but I’ve never really been sure which.

It was a perfect evening, near the end of a beautiful, relaxing day.

Hate to leave, but we’ve got to get going, Loop. Hope you had fun here.

Do we have to? Why leave now, so late in the day, SPHP?

We need to be in Banff early on the 16th, but that leaves us with another whole day to enjoy the Canadian Rockies before then, Looper. We’re all rested up, so we’re not going to waste it. We’re leaving to get into better position for your next big adventure tomorrow.

I like the sound of that, SPHP. If we must, we must!

9-14-23, 7:50 PM – The last rays of sunlight were about to vanish from Mount Athabasca (11,414 ft.) and Mount Andromeda (11,286 ft.) by the time Lupe reached the nearly vacant humongous parking lot at the Jasper Columbia Icefields Discovery Centre.

Looking S: **Mount Athabasca** (L), **Mount Andromeda** (R), **Athabasca Glacier** (far R).

Still such an amazing sight, but sadder every year, too, as the snow and ice recede. Nothing to be done about that, though. After enjoying the view, the drive S continued into Banff National Park. It was already quite dark when Lupe spotted a lynx on the prowl. Upon arriving at Bow Lake, a million stars were above.

Perhaps even more impressive, miracle of miracles, the short side road to the Bow Lake picnic ground, which had always been wretched due to numerous giant potholes, had been repaired! (End 10:47 PM, 42ºF)

At Lupe’s favorite picnic ground along the **Athabasca River**, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada 9-14-23

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Mount Saint George, Stone Mountain Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada (8-5-17)

Summit Peak & Mount Saint Paul, Stone Mountain Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada (8-4-17)

The Berg Lake Trail, Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada (7-30-13)

Sunwapta Falls, Athabasca Falls, Overlander Falls & Rearguard Falls in the Canadian Rockies (8-3-16 & 8-4-16)

Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-31-13)

Bow Lake and the Trail to Bow Glacier Falls, Banff National Park, Canada (7-25-13)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Wilcox Pass, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada (7-25-23)

Days 1 & 2, and Part 1 of Day 3 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

7-23-23, 11:30 AM, 82ºF – On her pink blanket atop pillows and various gear, the Carolina Dog was excited!

Ready to roll whenever you are, SPHP!

If I’ve forgotten anything else, we’re just going to have to buy it somewhere along the way. Show time, sweet puppy!

Turning the key, SPHP backed the RAV4 out of the driveway. Lupe’s grand and glorious 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska was underway!

Stops to sniff the air and stretch were few and far between on this first day. Lupe kept a nose out for cows and horses, but there didn’t seem to be as many of them this year. Probably huddled around whatever water or shade they could find. All through Wyoming, temperatures were in the mid-90’s °F as the RAV4 raced W along I-90.

Montana was an oven! 101ºF when SPHP dashed into Albertson’s in Billings to grab an 8-piece baked chicken deal. No time to get anything else in there, or the American Dingo would have baked, too, stuck in the RAV4 without the AC on, even with the windows down.

7-23-23, 8:28 PM – At 73ºF, conditions in the Little Belt Mountains were much more tolerable by the time Lupe bounded out of the RAV4 full of enthusiasm.

Kings Hill Pass (7,393 ft.)! Love it here, SPHP! Any preference? Want to climb Kings Hill (8,008 ft.) or Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.) first?

Sun will be down soon, Loop, so we only have time for one or the other this evening. How about Kings Hill? We can do Porphyry in the morning.

Shortly after cutting through the forest up to USFS Road No. 487, thunder rumbled in the distance. Lightning played among the dark clouds to the S, and a light rain began to fall.

7-23-23, 9:07 PM, 68ºF, Kings Hill (8,008 ft.) – The rain was already over and done with by the time the American Dingo reached the brass survey benchmark near the true summit. An orange glow was on the WNW horizon, and some of the clouds overhead glittered like gold.

**Porphyry Peak** (L) from **Kings Hill**. Photo looks WNW.

By the brass survey benchmark near the true summit. Photo looks NE.

Looks promising! Maybe there’s going to be a nice sunset, SPHP?

You might be right, Looper. Let’s go over by the edge to watch the show.

Going a little down the WNW slope, Lupe sat watching the developing display. The air was cool, fresh, and the clearest it had ever been on any of Lupe’s prior visits to Kings Hill.

The sunset turned out to be the best one ever, too.

Sunset from **Kings Hill**. **Porphyry Peak** (L). Photo looks NW.

7-24-23, 7:20 AM, 69ºF – Although this was going to be another travel day, as promised, Lupe got to start the morning with a jaunt up USFS Roads No. 838 & No. 6388 to visit the Showdown ski facilities and fire lookout tower on Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.).

At the base of the **Porphyry Peak fire lookout tower**. Photo looks E.

The **survey benchmark** that was in front of Lupe in the previous photo.

Heading over to the Showdown ski lifts. Photo looks ESE.

**Fire lookout tower** (L), **Showdown ski facility** (R). Photo looks NW.

The most impressive views were of Big Baldy Mountain, which Lupe had once been to, and Yogo Peak (8,801 ft.).

**Big Baldy Mountain** (L) and **Yogo Peak** (R). Photo looks NE.

We ought to visit Yogo Peak, too, SPHP!

Maybe someday, Looper, but not today. Canada and Alaska, remember? This is it for your morning constitutional. C’mon, we need to get back to the RAV4 and make some tracks.

Using one of the ski runs as a bit of a shortcut, Lupe headed down to the roads leading back to Kings Hill Pass.

Leaving **Porphyry Peak**. **Big Baldy Mountain** (R of Center), **Yogo Peak** (far R). Photo looks NNE.

The shortcut back to the USFS roads. Photo looks NW.

Driving out of the Little Belt Mountains, SPHP stopped briefly at the Al Buck Memorial Park so Lupe could get a drink from the spring gushing out of a hillside. Other than a couple of quick stops for food and fuel, that was it before crossing into Canada at the N end of I-15 at 12:57 PM.

Enjoying a drink from the spring at the **Al Buck Memorial Park** along Hwy 89.

At midday, even the Canadian border was a scorching 99ºF! Despite the heat, Lupe left the cool comfort of the RAV4’s AC long enough to pose by the Alberta welcome sign.

The **Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood** returns to **Canada**!

Another long drive with only occasional brief stops ensued. By early evening, the Carolina Dog was back in the fabulous Canadian Rockies!

7-24-23, 6:30 PM, 85ºF, Banff – As usual, beautiful Banff was jam-packed with tourists, and justifiably so. A couple of changes were evident since Lupe had been here last year. It was no longer possible to drive along Banff Avenue in the heart of downtown, which was now reserved solely for pawdestrians, and the fancy new upstream pawbridge over the Bow River that had been under construction in 2022 was now complete and open to the public.

Lupe’s evening in Banff began with a stroll along the turquoise blue Bow River. Famous Cascade Mountain (9,836 ft.) was in sight as she crossed the new upstream pawbridge, while the downstream bridge offered a great view of the N end of Mount Rundle (9,711 ft.).

**Cascade Mountain** (Center) beyond the new upstream pawbridge. Photo looks N.

**Mount Rundle** (Center) from the downstream bridge. Photo looks SE.

Continuing downstream, Lupe visited Bow Falls, which was more like a steep rapids than a vertical waterfall, but awesome nevertheless. From there, a trail led up to the historic Banff Springs Hotel.

Along the **Bow River** below the falls. Photo looks E.

The historic **Banff Springs Hotel**. Photo looks N.

The Carolina Dog’s evening ended with a long-standing Banff tradition – Lupe’s Pretty Puppy Parade up and down both sides of Banff Avenue in the heart of downtown.

Lupe’s one-Dingo **Pretty Puppy Parade** in the center of **Banff**.

7-25-23, 6:37 AM, 66ºF – Early sunshine was peeping through the clouds on this breezy, unsettled morning, and Banff was still quiet as Lupe left town. At least, it was quiet until the Carolina Dog spotted several giant deers. Nearly tame, they seemed more perplexed than alarmed as they were subjected to ferocious barking emitting from the RAV4.

Guess you told them, didn’t you, Loopster? A bit rudely, though.

Giant deers are incredibly exciting, SPHP! Right on the edge of town, too! A great start to a great day. Now that we’ve made it to the Canadian Rockies, what’s on the agenda?

Been ages since we’ve seen the Athabasca Glacier from Wilcox Pass. Thinking we might do that, Looper. We can stop at a few favorite spots along the way, too, if you like.

Sounds terrific, SPHP!

It was a fine plan. However, driving W on Hwy 1, the sky soon became very dark. The mountains turned gray, then vanished amid heavy rain.

Shucks, Loop! Looks we’re going to miss out on the Canadian Rockies, and get stuck with a rainy day drive. Sorry! Nothing I can do about it, though.

Most disappointing! However, current conditions were deceptive. By the time the RAV4 reached Lake Louise, the rain was over and blue sky was ahead.

7-25-23, 7:49 AM, 42ºF, Bow Lake picnic area along Icefields Parkway No. 93 – So much for the baking heat of the plains! SPHP dug a couple more layers of clothing out of the duffle bags, put them on, then accompanied the Carolina Dog down to the lakeshore. Beyond the rippled surface, a red roof stood out way over along opposite N shore.

**Mount Jimmy Simpson** (R of Center) beyond **Bow Lake**. Photo looks NW.

The trail to Bow Glacier Falls and Mount Jimmy Simpson starts over there, remember, SPHP? That’s the Num-Ti-Jah Lodge!

Of, course! Awesome times, sweet puppy! However, they’ve now changed the name from Num-Ti-Jah Lodge, to just the Lodge at Bow Lake. Easier to remember, I suppose.

7-25-23, 8:57 AM, – Lupe’s next stop was only a few km farther N. The L turn off Icefields Parkway No. 93 for the Peyto Lake overlook came at the top of Bow Pass. Surprisingly, the 0.6 km paved trail to the overlook had been rerouted since the last time the American Dingo was here. The view deck was new, too, and much larger than it used to be.

Across the deep valley the lake was nestled in, Cauldron Peak (9,580 ft.) towered over the far shore, with Mount Patterson (10,469 ft.) standing like a sentinel along the edge of the Mistaya River valley, where a long line of magnificent mountains stretched off to the N horizon.

At the fancy new **Peyto Lake view deck**. **Mistaya River Valley** (R). Photo looks NNW.

**Peyto Lake** from the end of the deck. **Mount Patterson** (L). Photo looks NNW.

**Peyto Lake** with **Cauldron Mountain** (L), **Mount Patterson** (Center), **Mistaya River Valley** (R). Photo looks NNW.

Love how Peyto Lake has such an amazing, milky, turquoise blue color! Don’t you, SPHP?

Oh, of course! That’s because it’s a glacier-fed lake, Loopster. Remember your Search for the Peyto Glacier? We took a primitive trail down to Peyto Creek from here, and wandered up the valley.

We never did find the Peyto Glacier, SPHP.

Beyond our abilities, Loopster, but we had a great time. If you look SW up the valley, you can actually see Peyto Peak (9,711 ft.) and part of the Peyto Glacier from right here on the view deck.

**Peyto Glacier** (Center), **Peyto Peak** (R). Photo looks SW.

**Peyto Glacier** (L), **Peyto Peak** (R), **Peyto Creek** (far R). Photo looks SW.

Once upon a time, the American Dingo had also taken a shorter trail from here to Bow Summit, a high spot with a gorgeous view of Bow Lake back to the S, although admittedly not as grand as the one from Mount Jimmy Simpson.

However, with Wilcox Pass on the agenda, Lupe didn’t visit Bow Summit again today. A final quick stop at the Carson Creek picnic ground along the North Saskatchewan River, where SPHP got the pack ready, was it before the main event.

**North Saskatchewan River** from the Carson Creek picnic ground. Photo looks SE.

7-25-23, 11:04 AM, 48ºF – As Icefields Parkway No. 93 went up and over Sunwapta Pass, the Carolina Dog left Banff National Park behind, and entered Jasper National Park. Wilcox Creek campground was only 2.5 km farther on the R. For a change, the severely under-sized Wilcox Pass trailhead near the entrance to the campground wasn’t entirely overrun. SPHP was lucky enough to grab a vacant parking spot for the RAV4, and Lupe was on her way!

The incredibly popular Wilcox Pass trail began with a short climb into the forest along a broad, smooth path. Before long, the trail was even wider and covered with a multitude of roots. After a fairly flat section, the trail began climbing at a good clip, eventually flattening out shortly before leading to a boardwalk with a set of stairs.

Near the start of the **Wilcox Pass trail**.

Beyond the boardwalk, the trail climbed more steeply again. The first viewpoint came soon after going around a bend NW, but only hinted at the glories yet to come. An open slope a little farther on revealed much more. Although the Athabasca Glacier wasn’t in sight yet, Mount Athabasca (11,414 ft.), Mount Andromeda (11,286 ft.), Snow Dome (11,345 ft.) and Mount Kitchener (11,483 ft.) were.

**Snow Dome** (L), **Mount Kitchener** (R) from the first good viewpoint. Photo looks W.

The Wilcox Pass trail leveled out to some degree as it continued NW through another stretch of forest. When Lupe reached the next open slope, most of the Athabasca Glacier was in view.

Along the last stretch of dense forest. Photo looks NW.

**Athabasca Glacier** (L), **Snow Dome** (Center), **Mount Kitchener** (R). Photo looks WSW.

Something new was ahead! Two red chairs faced the already grand view of the glacier flanked by Mount Athabasca and Mount Andromeda on the L, and Snow Dome and Mount Kitchener on the R. Lupe got up on a platform connecting the chairs, braving a brisk SW breeze.

Red chairs viewpoint. **Mount Kitchener** (L), **Mount Wilcox** (far R). Photo looks WNW.

**Hilda Peak** (far L), **Mount Athabasca** (Center). Photo looks S.

What a great spot, Loopster! If one didn’t feel like going any farther, these chairs wouldn’t be a bad place to hang out. Both Hilda Peak (9,974 ft.) and the top of Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) are in sight, in addition to all the big peaks over by the Athabasca Glacier.

Don’t get any ideas, SPHP. We’re going all the way to Wilcox Pass!

The red chairs were near treeline. Only scattered stands of increasingly stunted forest and bushes were ahead, as tundra-covered slopes began to dominate. A relatively flat section of the trail continued a bit farther NW toward a big gully below the Wilcox Pass region, which was now starting to come into view.

Near the gully, the trail veered N, climbing steeply for 200 feet before once again angling NW. The slope steadily diminished as Lupe entered a rumpled region of low bushes, tundra, and small rock formations.

The flat stretch of trail beyond the red chairs. **Mount Wilcox** (far L). **Wilcox Pass region** (Center). Photo looks NW.

Above the steepest stretch. **Big gully** (L), **Mount Wilcox** (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

In the **rumpled region**. Photo looks NW.

The Wilcox Pass trail kept flattening, literally becoming a stroll in the park – Jasper National Park! By the time Lupe reached the shallow stream that flowed into the gully, most of Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) was in view, and Wilcox Pass wasn’t much farther.

From a rock outcropping capping a small rise near the stream, a huge ridge was in sight beyond Mount Wilcox.

Recognize that ridge, Loop? You were there since the last time we visited Wilcox Pass.

Hmm. Not sure, SPHP. Give me a hint!

Well, it’s possible to continue over Wilcox Pass along this trail and wind up over there, but that’s not how we did it. Instead we started down by Tangle Falls where the NW end of the Wilcox Pass trail reaches Icefields Parkway No. 93 again.

Tangle Falls! That’s a great hint, SPHP. That must be Tangle Ridge! Oh, that was another great day in the Canadian Rockies!

Indeed it was, Loopster! Fun to see Tangle Ridge again from here.

Closing in on **Wilcox Pass**. **Mount Wilcox** (L). Photo looks NW.

**Mount Wilcox** (L of Center), **Tangle Ridge** (R). Photo looks NW.

About to cross the **shallow stream**. Photo looks NW.

**Tangle Ridge** (Center) from **Wilcox Pass**. Photo looks NW.

7-25-23, 12:35 PM, 41ºF – Wilcox Pass was so cold and windy when Lupe arrived, that SPHP dumped the pack then layered up – stocking cap, coat, gloves, the whole bit. Although the Carolina Dog had seen surprisingly few people thus far, plenty were up here, all dressed like winter was coming while exploring the vast Wilcox Pass region.

**Wilcox Pass**. **Tangle Ridge** (L). Photo looks NNW.

**Hilda Peak** (L), **Mount Athabasca** (R) from **Wilcox Pass**. Photo looks S.

**Mount Wilcox** (Center) from **Wilcox Pass**. **Tangle Ridge** (R). Photo looks NW.

A sign said it was 1.4 km to Wilcox Ridge. As awesome as all the wide open spaces were at Wilcox Pass, the pass was never the Carolina Dog’s ultimate destination. Wilcox Ridge was where the stupendous view of the Athabasca Glacier was. Lupe always went there! Despite the cold wind, coming all the way to Wilcox Pass and not going to Wilcox Ridge would be simply ridiculous.

**Wilcox Ridge** from **Wilcox Pass**. Photo looks W.

The spur trail heading W up into the Wilcox Ridge region used to fade away, simply becoming more of a choose-your-own-path route once it turned SW. However, the trail was now very distinct. If there was any question at all about it, new cairns held together by wire cages, each bearing a yellow diamond, marked the way.

More than halfway to the Wilcox Ridge viewpoint, Lupe came to a long rock wall serving as a windbreak. That was new, too. The Carolina Dog was glad one thing hadn’t changed. Bighorn mountain sheep still grazed these windswept slopes.

Signage at the Wilcox Pass trail junction.

**Hilda Peak** (far L), **Mount Athabasca** (Center) from one of the yellow diamond cairns. Photo looks S.

At the rock wall windbreak. Photo looks SW.

The Wilcox Ridge Trail went over a series of minor ridges and ravines on the way to what appeared to be a more formal viewpoint than Lupe had ever seen here before. Quite a few people were already present as the American Dingo arrived. Preferring more solitude, SPHP decided to take a side route farther W, closer to the SE end of the narrow ridge leading up Mount Wilcox before selecting another spot along the SW edge where Lupe could relax on a patch of tundra.

Approaching the **Wilcox Ridge Athabasca Glacier viewpoint**. Photo looks SW.

Heading a little farther W before taking a break. **Mount Wilcox** (R). Photo looks W.

7-25-23, 1:36 PM, 43ºF – The 30 mph gale sweeping in from the SW felt really cold at the viewpoint SPHP had chosen. Fortunately, conditions weren’t nearly as bad while relaxing just a few feet back from the edge. Facing SW directly into the breeze, Lupe once again enjoyed one of the most magnificent easily accessible views in the Canadian Rockies.

Mount Athabasca (11,414 ft.) and Mount Andromeda (11,286 ft.) on the L, and Snow Dome (11,345 ft.) and Mount Kitchener (11,483 ft.) on the R, with the Athabasca Glacier between them, flowing down from the almost entirely hidden Columbia Icefield.

Looking S. **Mount Athabasca** (L), **Mount Andromeda** (Center), **Athabasca Glacier** (R).

**Mount Andromeda** (L), **Athabasca Glacier** (Center), **Snow Dome** (R). Photo looks SSW.

**Athabasca Glacier** (L), **Snow Dome** (R), **Mount Kitchener** (R edge). Photo looks SW.

Still a truly incredible scene, SPHP, but there isn’t as much snow and ice as I remember.

Yup. The Athabasca Glacier is steadily retreating, Loopster. One day in the not too distant future, it will be but a memory.

That’s a terribly sad thought, SPHP! This has to be one of my favorite places in the Canadian Rockies, although seeing the Saskatchewan Glacier from Parker Ridge, Berg Lake at the base of Mount Robson , Moraine Lake, and Lake Louise all rank way up there, too.

All fabulous choices, Looper. However, if we were limited to being able to come back to only one spot in the Canadian Rockies ever again, I might well choose Wilcox Pass and this view. Most spectacular scenic reward for a half day hike there is!

Peering over the edge, Sunwapta Lake, the meltwater pond that used to be at the toe of the glacier once upon a time, and the Icefields Centre, where it’s possible to get tickets to actually ride in a snowcoach up onto the Athabasca Glacier, were in sight 1,400 feet below. Looking back to the ESE, Sunwapta Pass and Nigel Peak were in view.

**Icefields Centre** (Center) down by **Icefields Parkway No. 93**. **Sunwapta Lake** (R) below the toe of the **Athabasca Glacier**. Photo looks ESE.

**Nigel Peak** (L) and **Sunwapta Pass** (R). Photo looks ESE.

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, congratulating the Carolina Dog on her return to this marvelous scene for the first time in nearly 7 years, then shared a chocolate coconut bar with her.

For over an hour, Lupe and SPHP hung out together in the cold breeze, admiring the glory in all directions, chief of which was the splendid panorama of the Athabasca glacier and surrounding mighty peaks.

**Mount Andromeda** (L), **Athabasca Glacier** (Center), part of **Snow Dome** (R). Photo looks SSW.

**Athabasca Glacier**. Photo looks SSW with help from the telephoto lens.

Happy Lupe with **Mount Athabasca** (L) and the **Athabasca Glacier** (R) beyond her. Photo looks S.

Oh, we’ll never get tired of Wilcox Pass and these views of the Athabasca Glacier, will we, SPHP?

Not even if we live to be 100, Loopster!

7-25-23, 2:38 PM – Absent-mindedly, SPHP shook the box, then looking down realized it was empty.

Holy moly, Loop! I’ve eaten an entire box of Dots sitting here. Guess I’ll be on a sugar high now! Sadly, our hour at this splendid perch has flown. Ready to move on?

Hate to leave, SPHP, but more adventures lie ahead, don’t they?

Gobs of ’em, Looper, a whole Dingo Vacation chock full of them!

A final appreciative look, and Lupe was on her way.

**Mount Athabasca** (L), **Mount Andromeda** (Center), **Athabasca Glacier** (far R).

After leaving her fabulous viewpoint, Lupe explored the region closer to the SE end of Mount Wilcox. Great fun, but all too quickly, she arrived back at Wilcox Pass. Still awesome views all around, but just a matter of following the trail back now.

Leaving the Wilcox Ridge viewpoint. **Mount Wilcox** (Center). Photo looks NW.

Back at **Wilcox Pass**. **Mount Wilcox** (L edge), **Tangle Ridge** (Center). Photo looks NW.

7-25-23, 4:06 PM, 52ºF – Warmer, actually quite pleasant, with scarcely even a breeze, when Lupe leapt back onto her pink blanket in the RAV4 at the Wilcox Pass trailhead.

Wilcox Pass, and lots of beautiful places on the way to it! My 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska is off to a terrific start, SPHP!

And still time enough for more sight-seeing yet today, Loop. Hope you’re in the mood for some awesome Canadian Rockies waterfalls, sweet puppy!

I am! Turn the key, and let’s hit the road N. Onward! SPHP, ho!