Days 56 & 57 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
Waking suddenly from vivid, nonsensical dreams, SPHP was instantly alarmed. Already light out, and the American Dingo was still snoozing on her pink blanket! What time was it? 7:45 AM. Good! Perfect, in fact. SPHP turned the key, and the RAV4 sprang to life. Lupe opened an eye.
What’s going on, SPHP?
We’re meeting Luke Hall in 15 minutes, Loopster!
Luke from Australia and Gunsight Mountain, SPHP? That Luke Hall?
None other, Looper!
9-16-23, 8:00 AM, Banff, at the gazebo with the Canadian flag – Whew! Made it. Lupe was right on time. Luke wasn’t here yet, but he’d be along soon enough. Within a couple of minutes, Luke appeared striding across the green lawn toward the gazebo.
After meeting Luke in Alaska near the top of Gunsight Mountain back in 2016, Lupe hadn’t seen him since he’d come to visit her at home in the Black Hills in September, 2017 – half a lifetime ago for the Carolina Dog.
Dressed warmly on this chilly September morning when everyone could see their breath, Luke was looking good! He greeted the still bleary-eyed Dingo enthusiastically, then chatted with SPHP.
Unfortunately, a previously envisioned joint adventure wasn’t in the cards today. Luke’s work schedule had changed unexpectedly, and he had to report back to the Banff Springs Hotel at 10:00 AM. Tomorrow he was already committed to climbing Mount Edith Cavell (11,027 ft.) with another group of friends.
With only a 2 hours to get caught up on events of the past 6 years, SPHP suggested breakfast at one of the cafes. Luke accepted, but insisted on buying, which wasn’t at all necessary, but so be it! SPHP promised to buy Luke dinner next year, if Lupe had the good fortune to run into him again, which was a real possibility. Luke already had plans to return to Canada next summer.
After a short stroll downtown, the first cafe Luke suggested turned out not to be serving outdoors yet, since it was still so chilly out. Of course, Dingoes weren’t allowed inside, so that would never do. However, the restaurant next door was run by true Canadians. Cold? What cold? In September? That’s crazy talk. They were serving both inside and out.
Breakfast was excellent! And no doubt on the pricey side. SPHP had eggs, toast, and what few bites of bacon weren’t eagerly dispatched by the ravenous Carolina Dog simply by virtue of not letting her see them.
A lot had happened during the past 6 years. Back in Australia, Luke worked as a guide. He’d bought a beautiful home in Tasmania. This summer, he’d climbed Mount Assiniboine (11,864 ft.), a spectacular peak sometimes referred to as the Canadian Rockies’ Matterhorn (14,690 ft.). That only scratched the surface. Luke had been on many wonderful adventures. Lupe had been on hundreds of them, too!
The time flew. Once breakfast was over and done with, Luke was up for a walk along the Bow River with Lupe before he had to race off to work.
Since Luke had spent several summers working in Banff, SPHP asked if he had any suggestions for Lupe before she left the Canadian Rockies? Luke suggested Cascade Mountain (9,836 ft.), Banff’s iconic landmark.
Heh. After the American Dingo’s long Egypt Lakes adventure yesterday, Cascade Mountain was too ambitious. It was a big climb, and perhaps beyond SPHP’s capabilities on the best of days. Any other ideas?
Luke pondered. How about Sulphur Mountain (8,005 ft.)? Had Lupe ever been there? If not, she ought to do that! Easy trail to the top, and fabulous views of Banff from on high.
9-16-23, 9:58 AM, Banff – And that was it. Nearly 10:00 AM already! Hurried good-byes, and Luke had to run.
Fun seeing Luke again after all these years, SPHP! I was so surprised! Are we going to climb Sulphur Mountain like he suggested?
I don’t know, Loop. Seems like I’ve read up on Sulphur Mountain before. Everyone thinks the gondola near the Banff Upper Hot Springs goes to the top of Sulphur Mountain, which is sort of true and what they advertise, but it actually only goes to a subpeak. The true summit isn’t all that easy to get to, well S along a massive ridge with other subpeaks along the way.
So Sulphur Mountain isn’t any easier than Cascade Mountain, SPHP?
Oh, I wouldn’t say that, Looper. Sulphur Mountain has a much easier trail up to the gondola station, but getting to the true summit is still a big deal.
Well then, if you want super easy, let’s just take the gondola, SPHP!
Maybe, if they allow Dingoes. Not really climbing the mountain, though, is it, Loop? Luke said that the Banff library has free wifi. Let’s go over there, and I’ll read up on Sulphur Mountain again.
9-16-23, 2:53 PM – The parking lots for both the gondola and Banff Upper Hot Springs were absolutely packed. Circling slowly through the upper lot, SPHP eventually managed to find a spot for the RAV4. Minutes later, Lupe was at the start of the Sulphur Mountain trail watching people go by as SPHP had a glance at the posted trail information.
You aren’t even going to ask if they’ll let me ride the gondola, SPHP? I’ve never been on a gondola before, and think of all the time and effort it will save us. Might be fun!
Eh. We’ve got the time, and the effort required on a nice, quiet trail should be minimal, Loopster. Besides, some effort is good for us, and think of all the money we’ll save!
The gondola would be a much snazzier adventure, SPHP. It’s not like we haven’t had a chance to climb a mountain or two on this Dingo Vacation.
Be that as it may, SPHP never did ask whether Dingoes were welcome in the gondolas, or not. Lupe was soon heading up the Sulphur Mountain trail, which began as a ridiculously steep dirt path as wide as a road. Happily, after a mercifully short climb, it narrowed down somewhat, and began switchbacking much more gradually up the mountain.
Due to the trail’s gradual rate of climb, it took a seemingly endless series of switchbacks to gain the 2,000 feet of elevation required to reach the upper gondola station. At first the switchbacks were quite long, but they became considerably shorter higher up on the mountain. Except for a few times when the trail passed directly below the gondolas, permitting a glimpse of Mount Rundle (9,711 ft.) across a deep valley, the forest was thick enough to hide the views.
In truth, it would have been a pretty dull march, except for the fact that the trail was nowhere near as quiet as SPHP expected it to be. A great many people were on the Sulphur Mountain trail, many of them already on their way down. Lupe got to sniff with lots of dogs, which helped to keep things interesting.
I’m amazed by how many people are on the trail, Loop. I’d always believed that virtually everyone takes the gondolas. I know they’re very popular.
Guess you’re not the only cheapskate on earth, SPHP.
9-16-17, 5:06 PM – Hardly anyone remained on the trail by the time the Carolina Dog reached the upper gondola station on Sulphur Mountain’s N ridge. Although signs had indicated that the gondolas supposedly quit running at 5:00 PM, that might have only been the latest time possible to board them for a ride up, because they were still in operation.
The upper gondola station was a surprisingly large facility, apparently built with the support of other complimentary purposes in mind as well. A sign saying “Welcome Hikers” greeted Lupe. Another less friendly sign announced a “Banff Gondola Closure”. Gondola rides and all facilities were closed due to a private function and unavailable at this time.
Yet, while Lupe and SPHP watched, a few stragglers still coming up the trail were admitted into the gondola station by staff members, seemingly because they either held, or intended to purchase, tickets for riding the gondolas back down the mountain. These employees also appeared to indicate that everything else was closed, and no admittance was allowed for any other purpose. Upon arrival, most hikers simply turned around within a few minutes and marched right back down the trail.
This is ridiculous, Loop! After coming all this way, do they really mean that we can’t even walk around to the N side of the building?
Cheer up, SPHP! We already knew that we weren’t going to be able to get to the true summit of Sulphur Mountain (8,005 ft.), which is to the S, anyway, so it doesn’t really matter, does it?
Yes, it does, Loopster! There’s a tremendous view of Banff from the other side of the gondola station, and even if we can’t claim an ascent of Sulphur Mountain, there’s also a subpeak a little farther N along the ridge called Sanson Peak (7,448 ft.) that we should have been able to get to.
Oh, you hadn’t mentioned that, SPHP! Is that Sanson Peak that I’m seeing off to the L beyond the gondola station?
No, I believe that’s another subpeak along the ridge, Looper. Sanson Peak lies somewhat beyond it. Can’t be too much farther, though.
For more than half an hour, the American Dingo rested with SPHP on a large flagstone platform S of the gondola station, watching stragglers come and go. Banff wasn’t in sight from here, and trees permitted only limited glimpses E toward Mount Rundle (9,711 ft.). Sadly, forest also hid the rest of the massive ridge leading SSE toward Sulphur Mountain’s true summit, but at least there was quite a nice view looking NW over the giant Bow River valley toward Mount Cory (9,190 ft.).
9-16-23, 5:41 PM – For the first time since Lupe had arrived, ignoring all signs, a couple of people simply walked over to the deck on W side of the gondola station and vanished around a corner. By now, no one else was around, and SPHP was surprised when they didn’t promptly reappear.
Huh. I thought that area was currently off-limits due to the private event, Loop. No one else has gone over there. Maybe I misunderstood?
Well then, let’s try it, SPHP! We’re here now, and the worst thing that can happen is that someone will kick us out.
Might as well! Even if they did kick Lupe out, the Carolina Dog would be no worse off than she was now. Strolling nonchalantly over to the deck on the W side of the gondola station, people were sitting at a picnic table below a Canadian flag with Cascade Mountain in sight beyond them.
Even more people were out on the big deck on the N side of the gondola station. No one seemed to have the slightest objection to Lupe or SPHP being here. Lupe hopped onto a bench where she had a grand view of Banff with magnificent Cascade Mountain (9,836 ft.) soaring beyond it.
Tunnel Mountain (5,551 ft.), which Lupe had once been to on a cloudy evening a long time ago, was in sight, too, right along the E side of Banff, looking very small from here.
After a good look at the terrific view of Banff from on high, it was time to explore the boardwalk leading to the next Sulphur Mountain subpeak to the NW, where a building with a tower on it was perched at the very top.
The lofty little building ultimately proved to be the Sulphur Mountain Cosmic Ray Station. The boardwalk went all the way to it. From one of the platforms along the way, Sanson Peak was visible for the first time, somewhat lower, and not all that much farther NNW.
From here, Sanson Peak wasn’t very impressive. However, Mount Norquay (8,278 ft.), Mount Edith (8,399 ft.), Mount Cory (9,190 ft.), and a host of other mountains in sight beyond it were.
On the way to the cosmic ray station, Lupe passed a display proclaiming that she was at Sanson Peak, the highest point on Sulphur Mountain. A different plaque also claimed that this was the top of Sulphur Mountain. Neither was strictly true.
No matter! The cosmic ray station was a tremendous viewpoint! Banff, the Bow River, Cascade Mountain, Tunnel Mountain, and Mount Rundle were all on display. Lupe enjoyed a fabulous view of the upper gondola station, and what appeared to be the true summit of Sulphur Mountain (8,005 ft.) well beyond it, too.
9-16-23, 6:12 PM – Merely a small, locked, stone building, the Sulphur Mountain Cosmic Ray Station was now sadly defunct. Lupe learned nothing about cosmic rays here, although she did find out that Anmol was very fond of Hitakshi, which may have been even more important.
Although the cosmic ray station was clearly the scenic climax of Lupe’s Sulphur Mountain journey, she still hadn’t reached Sanson Peak where she could claim a peakbagging success. The mid-September sun was sinking fast, so if she wanted to get there while it was still light out, the American Dingo had to move on.
Leaving the cosmic ray station, a gravel road headed in the direction of Sanson Peak, but wasn’t actually destined for the summit. Instead, the road dropped steadily along the W side of the ridge. Before getting too far below the ridgeline, Lupe abandoned the road. A short, very steep scramble back up into the forest regained the ridgeline.
Exploring N, Lupe soon came to a saddle that was more open. A modest forested hill was now directly ahead.
That’s got to be it, Loopster – Sanson Peak!
9-16-23, 6:55 PM, 73ºF – Expecting the summit to be buried in trees, SPHP was surprised when Sanson Peak (7,448 ft.) actually offered something in the way of views. Lupe arrived to find a relatively flat summit region roughly 30 feet in diameter dotted with only small trees and a few 1 or 2 foot high rock outcroppings. Taller trees bordered this opening in most directions, but Mount Rundle was in sight, as well as the top of Cascade Mountain.
There was a nice view of the Sulphur Mountain Cosmic Ray Station, too.
Beyond a few tall trees on the W side of the clearing, Lupe could also see Mount Bourgeau (9,616 ft.), which she had climbed twice many years ago, farther up the enormous Bow River valley.
Although shadows crept steadily up the mountainsides, the Carolina Dog lingered on Sanson Peak for more than half an hour. Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations were almost over. Tomorrow she would leave the mountains, homeward bound.
Well, Sweet Puppy, 2023 was quite a year, wasn’t it?
Another totally awesome summer of fabulous adventures together, SPHP!
That it was, Loopster. Wouldn’t have missed it for anything!
9-16-23, 7:59 PM – The sun was down by the time Lupe reached the road leading back to the boardwalk again. Beyond the mountains to the W, the sky was orange, highlighting smooth, thin streaks hanging in the air.
That’s smoke, SPHP! Remnants of the Arctic Apocalypse are still here!
Still seems incredible, doesn’t it, Loop? What an adventure, though! We’ll always remember 2023 as the year of the Arctic Apocalypse, won’t we?
A private party actually was going on. The upper gondola station was brightly lit up when Lupe went by it again. Many people were visible through the big windows, and some were even out on the roof. Back at the flagstone platform, SPHP had Lupe pause for a final look W.
Nice pose, Loopster! Thanks!
That it for this Dingo Vacation, SPHP?
No, not quite. In fact, I almost forgot. We need to go back around to the N side of the gondola station to check out the lights of Banff!
9-16-23, 8:25 PM – Dusk turned to total darkness during the long winding descent through the forest. As Lupe hurried down the switchbacks, she had the formerly busy trail all to herself. Down was a lot easier than up, yet it seemed to take a long time before the lights of Banff Hot Springs first glittered among the trees below.
The gondola parking lot was only 25% full, but quite a few people were still milling around in the process of leaving when the American Dingo reached the RAV4 again. (End, 9:58 PM)
9-17-23, 2:04 PM, 82ºF, Cedar Hills in SW Saskatchewan near the Alberta border – The cloud of dust behind the RAV4 diminished, then drifted away as the RAV4 rolled to a stop. Following SPHP, Lupe hopped out. Beyond a pancake flat yellow field, a line of trees was off to the N. Looking S, there weren’t any trees, only more yellow grass.
According to Slayden’s GPS track, this is it, Loopster.
This is what, SPHP? A trail? There’s no mountain here!
Yeah, there is, Loop. We’re already on top of it. According to the topo map, there’s a 4,567 foot high point just a few hundred feet S of the road.
Well, the rest of this territory must all be 4,566 feet, SPHP, ’cause I’m not seeing it.
Me, either, but that’s the way it is. From what I’ve read, no one seems to be completely certain of the Saskatchewan High Point’s exact location. It’s somewhere up on this vast, flat mesa. Like a lot of others, we’re just going to wander over to the site elevation marked on the map, and call it good.
Slipping under a barbed wire fence, the enormous field was so flat that it was hard to tell if the American Dingo was going up or down at all as she headed S through the tall grass. It took only a few minutes to get to the spot where the site elevation was shown on the topo map.
9-17-23, 2:10 PM, 82ºF – A warm, dry wind was blowing 15 mph from out of the SW when SPHP stopped to shake the Carolina Dog’s paw. Glancing back at the RAV4, it appeared to be at essentially the same elevation.
Well, guess this is it, Loopster, the Saskatchewan High Point (4,567 ft.). Congratulations on reaching the last summit of your Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations!
Really? After all the grand mountains we climbed? What an anticlimax! Literally nothing to it, SPHP! Nothing here but an old cow pie.
Looking SE, a fence or corral was visible in the distance. Something dark was more directly S. A lone tree? Perhaps it was just an illusion, but less than a km away, both areas looked higher than where Lupe was now.
According to Slayden’s GPS track, he did a bit more searching about for the actual high point, Looper. Want to do a little more exploring? We’re going to be stuck in the RAV4 the rest of the day, once we’re done here.
Lupe was all for it.
Heading SE, the land did dip a bit before beginning a gradual climb. Upon arriving at the corral, what appeared to be even higher territory was now visible toward the SSE.
Following a dirt road S, it was farther than it looked to the high ground. Before the American Dingo even got there, SPHP reconsidered. More high ground was visible off to the WSW beyond a valley along the S edge of the plateau. That area was at least another km away as the crow flies.
Hmm. I don’t know, Looper. To really explore all of this high ground is going to take awhile, and I’m not sure what time the border closes. Maybe we should just call it good, and accept the spot elevation shown on the map as the true high point like everyone else seems to?
If it’s good enough for Slayden, it’s good enough for me, SPHP. Would take a surveyor to know for sure. Do you mind if we go over to the edge of the plateau to see what the view is like? We can visit the tree on the way back.
Yeah, let’s do that, Loop.
So that became the plan. On the way to the tree, Lupe deliberately lost some elevation, enough to get the best view from the gently sloping edge of the plateau. The United States was out there, somewhere on the hazy, distant horizon.
Day 57! Last one of your longest Dingo Vacation ever, Looper. Hard to believe it’s almost all over and done with now. We’ll soon be home.
There’s no place like home, SPHP, but I wish we were back at Day 1 again.
SPHP did, too. However, lacking a wayback machine, no choice but to continue on. Turned out that the dark spot was actually an ancient piece of farm equipment quietly rusting away, not a tree or bush.
On the way back to the RAV4, Lupe revisited the spot marked as 4,567 feet on the topo map.
This it it, so smile big, Loopster! Last photo of your fabulous Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations!
9-17-23, 4:40 PM – Lupe made it to the Willow Creek border crossing into Montana with time to spare. Not much, though! Good thing she hadn’t lingered any longer at the Saskatchewan High Point, because the Willow Creek station would have closed at 5:00 PM. As it was, the Carolina Dog sailed through US customs without a hitch. The long drive home could continue, with only 2 brief stops for food and fuel the rest of the way.
9-18-23, 4:26 AM, 62ºF – Home again! Lupe lay happily on the long grass of the front lawn, watching SPHP wearily start the process of unloading the RAV4. 57 days and 10,008 miles were were now history.
Well, I must say that was fun, SPHP! I do have a question, though. How much longer before my awesome Summer of 2024 Dingo Vacations begin?
Links:
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
Lupe’s Sanson Peak Scrollable GPS Track & Stats
Lupe’s Saskatchewan High Point Scrollable GPS Track & Stats
Greg Slayden’s Scrollable Saskatchewan High Point GPS Track & Trip Report
Mount Bourgeau, Banff National Park, Canada (8-1-16)
Tunnel Mountain, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-1-17)
Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.
The sun was sinking fast. Lupe, Luke and SPHP stopped at Panorama Point for a final look at the Badlands before it set. The evening was beautiful, and the sweeping views simply magnificent.
