Rearguard Falls Provincial Park – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Overlander Falls, Rearguard Falls & Ancient Forest, British Columbia, Canada (8-2-17)

Part 2 of Day 3, plus Day 4 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska

(Day 3, 8-2-17, noon) My how things had changed! When Lupe and SPHP got back to the Bow Glacier Falls trailhead near Simpson’s Num-Ti-Jah Lodge on beautiful Bow Lake shortly before noon, the parking lot, which had been nearly vacant when the American Dingo arrived early this morning, was jam packed with vehicles. A long line was waiting to get in, and another trying to get out.

After some delay, the G6 made it out onto Icefields Parkway Hwy 93. Only a few miles farther N at Bow Summit, SPHP made the mistake of taking the turn for Peyto Lake. The situation was the same here. No place to park, vehicles circling endlessly, and throngs of tourists everywhere.

Another delay getting back onto Hwy 93 ensued, but eventually Lupe was headed N again. It was the height of the summer tourist season. After an overcast late autumn feel to the start of the day back in Banff this morning, the sky was bright blue and temperatures were soaring. As a result, the magnificent Canadian Rockies were completely overrun.

Loopster, you were dang lucky to have Bow Glacier Falls all to yourself this morning!

The early Dingo gets the … uh, squirrel, you know, SPHP!

Apparently, that was absolutely the case. The mid-day drive N through Banff and Jasper National Parks was stunning as always, but at all the other short day hikes Lupe might have done, the story was the same. No room to park at Parker Ridge, no room at Wilcox Pass, not even a single available spot at the giant paved parking lot at the Icefields Centre across from the Athabasca Glacier.

Heading N through the **Canadian Rockies** on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.

SPHP did manage to sneak the G6 into a couple of pullouts on the way N. Lupe got brief looks at splendid views before having to hit the road again to let someone else have a turn.

Looper at a pullout with a view across the **Sunwapta River** of the **Stutfield Glacier**, part of the **Columbia Icefield**. Photo looks SW.

Despite the crowds, SPHP thought Lupe had an ace in the hole. She would stop at her favorite secret picnic ground on the Athabasca river 5 or 6 miles S of Athabasca Falls. Due to a total lack of signage, only a few locals ever seemed to realize it was there. Everyone else roared right on by the inconspicuous turn.

When Lupe got there, SPHP was aghast. New signage! The formerly secret picnic ground wasn’t completely overrun, but it was no longer the Carolina Dog’s private preserve, either. Lupe and SPHP stopped long enough to go over to the river to take a look at the familiar lovely views, but the solitude which had been so exquisite here even on super touristy days was gone.

At the **Athabasca River** near what used to be a very private picnic ground due to a lack of signage. Unfortunately, new signs were up and the solitude Lupe used to enjoy here on previous years had vanished. Photo looks NW.

Since the Canadian Rockies were so busy on what was rapidly becoming a hot summer afternoon, SPHP decided Lupe ought to just keep going. After a quick stop for fuel and supplies in Jasper, Lupe enjoyed an air-conditioned ride W on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16.

Upon reaching the British Columbia border, Lupe entered Mount Robson Provincial Park. When SPHP spotted the Overlander Falls trailhead next to the highway, no one was there. Perfect! SPHP pulled into the nearly empty parking lot.

Lupe had stopped at Overlander Falls on her 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska, too, so she knew what to expect. The main trail down to the falls is a nice, shady 10 minute stroll through the forest.

On the main trail to Overlander Falls, only a 10 minute, mostly downhill stroll away.

Last year, Lupe had visited Overlander Falls on a cloudy, drippy day. The falls had been impressive then, but in the sunshine this afternoon Overlander Falls was absolutely gorgeous! The Fraser River was an amazing pale blue color mixed with a clean, foamy white.

**Overlander Falls** was absolutely gorgeous on this sunny afternoon! Only 30 ft. high, **Overlander Falls** is one of only 2 significant waterfalls on the **Fraser River**, the other being **Rearguard Falls** farther downstream. The trailhead is located on the S side of Yellowhead Hwy 16 about 2 km E of the **Mount Robson Provincial Park** headquarters and visitor center.

Lupe was glad to see Overlander Falls again! The waterfall put out a cool, misty spray, which felt great on a hot afternoon. The torrent pouring over the falls produced a soothing continuous roar.

Lupe was glad to see **Overlander Falls** again! The falls produced a cool, misty spray which felt great on a hot afternoon.

Loop by the downstream end of the big, beautiful swirling pool of water below the falls.

Lupe had lovely Overlander Falls all to herself, but only for 10 minutes or so. Soon people were coming. Best to let them enjoy some privacy here, too. The Carolina Dog started back up the trail to the parking lot.

Enjoying a few minutes of cool, misty solitude down by Overlander Falls.

Not far from Overlander Falls, a longer side trail branches off the main trail and follows the Fraser River downstream for 2 km. The side trail stays well above the Fraser River, which isn’t even in view a good deal of the time. It ends at a road 0.5 km from Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters and visitor center.

Lupe had taken the side trail last year, but had a painful experience when she got too excited about a squirrel. A dewclaw caught on a root or branch while she was leaping about. The dewclaw had broken off, which hadn’t been much fun at all. Instead of taking the side trail, this time around Lupe let SPHP drive her to the Mount Robson Provincial Park visitor center.

Mount Robson (12,989 ft.) is the highest mountain in the Canadian Rockies. In 2013, Lupe had taken the Berg Lake trail all the way up to Berg Lake, where she’d had a grand view of Mount Robson and the Berg and Mist Glaciers after traveling through the Valley of a Thousand Falls. That had been a truly glorious adventure, but a long, long day.

Last year, Mount Robson had been mostly hidden in clouds when Lupe dropped by the visitor center. Today the mountain soared in sunshine, highlighted against a brilliant blue sky. The sight was enough to make the American Dingo want to take the Berg Lake trail again.

Lupe drops by the Mount Robson Provincial Park visitor center to see **Mount Robson** (L), the highest mountain in the **Canadian Rockies**.

Lupe would have been willing to stay and take the Berg Lake trail all the way around to the other side of **Mount Robson** (23 km one way!). SPHP had to admit that would have been a tremendously fun thing to do, but Loop had other great adventures in store for her on this year’s grand **Dingo Vacation**!

**Mount Robson** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NNE.

From the visitor center, it was only eight miles to Lupe’s next stop at Rearguard Falls. On the way, the temperature hit a sweltering 89°F!

Like at Overlander Falls, the Rearguard Falls trailhead was right along Yellowhead Hwy 16. A 10 minute walk down a good trail brought Lupe to an extensive boardwalk system with metal railings.

Lupe on the boardwalk platform closest to **Rearguard Falls**. **Rearguard Falls** wasn’t as high as **Overlander Falls**, but being downstream, contained an even more tremendous flow.

Rearguard Falls, though not as high as Overlander Falls roughly 10 miles upstream, has great significance as the only other waterfall on the 854 mile long Fraser River. Rearguard Falls is high enough and powerful enough to be an effective barrier against nearly all migrating salmon. While a few salmon may be strong enough or lucky enough to make it over Rearguard Falls, none make it past Overlander Falls.

Few migrating salmon can make it past **Rearguard Falls**. Even those that do are ultimately blocked only 10 miles upstream by **Overlander Falls**.

Rearguard Falls was the last stop Lupe would make for a while, so she lingered as long as she could by the beautiful waterfall until SPHP said it was time to be moving on again.

*Oh, mighty interesting about the salmon getting stuck here, SPHP! Sounds pretty good! Think we can catch one? I like salmon!*

Don’t think so Looper. Not seeing any salmon here today. Maybe it’s the wrong time of year? This is a provincial park, anyway. I’m pretty sure they wouldn’t be too happy with us feasting on the salmon here.

The beautiful Fraser River immediately downstream of **Rearguard Falls**.

Lupe and SPHP went on, continuing W on Yellowhead Hwy 16. Soon after leaving Rearguard Falls, Hwy 5 branched off going S to Kamloops. Nearly all the traffic went that way. Lupe stayed on Hwy 16 following the Fraser River valley toward Prince George.

The Carolina Dog barked at cows and horses as she cruised by occasional green fields scattered among the forest. The Fraser River was seldom in view. The valley was miles wide, and bordered by high mountains on both sides. The mountains to the NE were closest. They weren’t as spectacular as Mount Robson, but were still very scenic.

Gradually the fields with their cows and horses disappeared. Forests lined the highway. Lupe calmed down and relaxed. The late afternoon heat faded to a comfortable level. The busy crowds had vanished. SPHP owned the road, driving with the windows partially down to let fresh air swirl through. As mile after gorgeous mile went by, the drive took on a peaceful, dream-like quality. The G6 hummed steadily NW.

It was evening, when a sign came into view. It was a big new sign where a year ago there had only been a small one. “Ancient Forest”. Well, why not? A huge, wide, short gravel road led up a hillside to an enormous gravel parking lot. Everything was new. The immediate area had been stripped of trees. At one end of the parking lot were two picnic tables and a couple of outhouses. That was it for facilities.

Lupe arrives at the Ancient Forest along Yellowhead Hwy 16, about 70 miles SE of Prince George, British Columbia.

A guy with a bicycle was using one of the picnic tables. Only one pickup truck was parked in the absurdly gigantic parking lot. No one else was in sight. Lupe and SPHP got out for a look around.

A few signs were posted near a registry at the start of a boardwalk trail leading into the forest. The signs said this area was a rare ancient inland rainforest. Huge western redcedars, many over 1,000 years old, and some over 2,000 years old are the dominant tree. A map showed a trail system with two loops and a couple of spurs.

One of the signs at the registration station near the start of the loop trails leading into the Ancient Forest.

Several vehicles came and went while SPHP read the signs. The occupants were only interested in using the outhouses. No one else came to explore a trail, or even glance at what the Ancient Forest was all about.

The Ancient Forest seemed quite different from Lupe’s usual adventures, but she was here now, and Loopster was certainly ready for action. SPHP registered for her, and the American Dingo set out on the handi-cap accessible boardwalk leading into the rainforest. (7:43 PM, 70°F)

Lupe enters the **Ancient Forest** of western redcedars on the handi-cap accessible boardwalk.

The ancient western redcedars were enormous! The redcedars stood straight and tall with few branches until high above the ground. Most branches seemed pathetically small for the size of the trees. Clumps of moss clung to the tree trunks. The forest floor was covered with ferns, plants with huge leaves, and more moss.

Moss clung to the trunks of the ancient western redcedars. These trees were enormous – straight and tall, with few branches until high above the ground.

The level handi-cap accessible “universal” boardwalk was on supports keeping it several feet above the forest floor, and had railings on both sides. Lupe followed it all the way to a promised viewpoint at its far end, a distance of several hundred meters. The “viewpoint” turned out to be just another spot in the forest like any other, except that a foot trail left the boardwalk and continued on from here.

The foot trail was the E end of a much longer trail that crosses a small creek nearby before gaining more than 3,800 feet (1,169 m) of elevation on its way up to a high point in the subalpine on Driscoll Ridge. The 8.1 mile (15.5 km) long Driscoll Ridge trail ultimately loops back down to Yellowhead Hwy 16 at a point 3 miles (5 km) W of the Ancient Forest trailhead.

Well, Lupe certainly didn’t have time to do all that this evening, so she turned around and went back to where the Waterfall/Tree Beard loop of the Ancient Forest trail system left the handi-cap accessible trail.

On the handicap-accessible “universal” trail heading back to where the Waterfall/Tree Beard loop leaves it.

Once off the handicap-accessible trail, Lupe headed for Tree Beard. The loop trail was still raised boardwalk, but it wasn’t nearly as high above the forest floor as on the universal trail, and now there were low steps and no railings. Most of the boardwalk was covered with a shingle-like material for better traction. The trail gained elevation at a moderate pace as it went up the slope leading to Tree Beard.

Maps like this one were posted at several points along the Ancient Forest loop trails.

Tree Beard was a particularly large, ancient western redcedar, and still very much alive. Nearly all its spindly little branches were way, way up above the ground.

Lupe next to Tree Beard, a particularly large, ancient western redcedar.

Lupe’s next stop was the waterfall. The waterfall was located at the end of a spur off the main loop trail. This was the high point of the whole Ancient Forest trail system, some 343 feet (104 m) above the trailhead.

The pretty waterfall flowed down green moss-covered rocks, but was sort of small. After seeing Overlander Falls and Rearguard Falls earlier in the day, the Carolina Dog wasn’t particularly impressed. Of course, the waterfall might be more impressive at other times of year. Perhaps this was the dry season? For a rainforest, everything seemed very dry.

The pretty waterfall at the high point of the Ancient Forest trail system.

Lupe returned to the main Waterfall/Tree Beard loop and continued on through the prehistoric forest.

This Ancient Forest really is cool, don’t you think, Looper? Seems like a place where you could meet a dinosaur!

A dinosaur! In Canada? Not too likely, SPHP. Haven’t seen a single one since we got here. In fact, I really can’t remember the last time I saw one anywhere. Dinosaurs are pretty scarce these days.

True enough. Maybe a bear, then. You saw bears in Canada last year, remember?

Oh yeah! A bear would be exciting! Maybe we’ll see a bear?

Lupe keeping an eye out for bears, and maybe even dinosaurs! Who knew what might lurk in the Ancient Forest?

When Lupe reached the Gold-Dust Tree, she found the tree had taken the unusual step of posting a sign boasting about the view it had of a distant mountain named Mount Sir Alexander (10,745 ft.). The sign said Mount Sir Alexander had been climbed only a few times, though the Gold-Dust Tree didn’t claim to have done it.

The sign posted by the Gold-Dust Tree about **Mount Sir Alexander**.

This was all quite interesting to a peakbagging Carolina Dog. She was fortunate enough to be here on a clear day when she could actually see the real Mount Sir Alexander, too. It was an impressive peak, glistening with glaciers just as the Gold-Dust Tree claimed.

Lupe was disappointed, though, to see that the mountain appeared well beyond SPHP’s peakbagging capabilities. That being the case, she knew she wouldn’t ever get to climb Mount Sir Alexander herself, either.

**Mount Sir Alexander** was an impressive peak, but Lupe could see that SPHP would never make it up something like that. Sadly, that meant she would never get to climb it, either. Photo looks NE with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Apparently, the sight of Mount Sir Alexander had gotten Lupe thinking.

You know what, SPHP? This Ancient Forest would be a great place to come to on a cloudy wet day. It wouldn’t be worth climbing any mountains on a day like that, because you wouldn’t see anything anyway, but the Ancient Forest would be fantastic! All drippy, misty, foggy and spooky-like! Makes me feel all scary and wild and ferocious just thinking about it!

Hah! Great idea, Loopster! Makes me wish it was all misty, drippy, and foggy right now!

I’d be the top predator, the most ferocious Dingo in the Ancient Forest! I’d go roaming and prowling among these monstrous trees on the hunt, ripping apart and devouring everything and anything I came to. Most fun ever! You could come with, SPHP, and help out. It’s always smart to hunt in packs, you know.

Maybe. I dunno know, Loop, we might run into Big Claw!

Big Claw? Who’s that?

Oh, don’t you remember fighting Big Paw on the Olympic Peninsula in Washington state? That was a rain forest, too. Down there, they had Big Paw, and he almost got the best of you. Up here, they probably have Big Claw, maybe a massive bear or something like that. Perhaps a giant grizzly! Big Paw was bad enough. You might not survive an encounter with Big Claw!

Lupe glanced around the forest, ears pricked up, nose twitching.

Big Claw wouldn’t be here on a day like today, do you think, SPHP?

Not entirely certain about that, Loop. I don’t see any ripe berries around, so probably not, but who knows? Best to stay alert. Don’t go wandering off.

Maybe we should get out of here before it gets dark, SPHP. Let’s keep going and see what’s next.

What was next was the Radies Tree, another huge western redcedar. The tree was named after Dave Radies, a graduate student at the University of Northern British Columbia, who had noticed in 2005 that trees in this area were marked for logging. Mr. Radies alerted the public, which led to the preservation of the Ancient Forest.

A few hundred feet (100 m) beyond the Radies Tree, Lupe came to a trail junction. She could take a shortcut back to the G6 completing the Waterfall/Tree Beard loop, or explore the Big Tree loop.

The Big Tree loop was the smaller of the two loops. It wouldn’t take much longer to check it out, too. There was still plenty of light out, and exploring the lonely Ancient Forest was pretty fun. Loop decided she’d like to see Big Tree.

Big Tree was a monster so large SPHP couldn’t even get a decent photo of it. A short side trail went to a platform right at the base of the tree. To get to the platform, Lupe had to pass beneath a huge tree that had fallen over. That fallen tree was mighty cool, too.

Having seen Big Tree, it was time to head back to the G6. Most of the return trip was an easy, downhill stroll on the boardwalk. Lupe never did see Big Claw, nor Medium Claw, Small Claw, or Tiny Claw, either for that matter.

Although forest was already getting gloomy, it was quite light out despite the late hour when Lupe and SPHP emerged from the Ancient Forest back at the huge, open parking lot (9:44 PM). The guy with the bicycle was gone. Only one other vehicle was around, a pickup with a camper which appeared intent on spending the night parked way down at the far end. Good idea. Lupe would spent the night here, too.

(Day 4, 8-3-17) Early, very early. The Big Dipper was so bright in the night sky, SPHP could see it without glasses, which was saying something. Later, a single bright spot appeared near the horizon. Must be Venus. Dawn was coming. Up at 5:48 AM, SPHP made use of one of the picnic tables, while Lupe sniffed around close by. Soon she was on Yellowhead Hwy 16 again, heading W for Prince George.

Prince George was only 65 miles (104 km) from Ancient Forest, so it was still early when Lupe arrived. SPHP fueled up the G6, then discovered that Save on Food didn’t even open until 8:00 AM, which seemed crazy. It was such a long way to the next substantial town, however, it was best to wait. Shortly after 8:00 AM, Lupe was on her way again, the G6 stocked with fresh provisions.

Loop and SPHP headed N out of Prince George on Hwy 97. The Carolina Dog enjoyed lapping up newly acquired chocolate milk, as she watched the scenery go by. Lupe had lots of nice breaks from the G6 yesterday, so this was going to be a travel day, spent mainly making tracks N. Even so, there would be a few stops along the way.

Looking at maps, SPHP had gotten the idea that it might be fun to see the Parsnip Reach of Williston Lake. This involved a 19 mile (30 km) side trip (one way) on Hwy 39 to Mackenzie, which according to SPHP’s wholly inadequate and deceptive maps appeared to be on the lake. No doubt the lake wasn’t too far away, but despite driving through the entire length of Mackenzie, and several miles past it on a dusty gravel road, Williston Lake refused to appear.

Driving back through Mackenzie again, SPHP saw no signs indicating how one might obtain lake access. Fiddlesticks! However, there was one strange thing Lupe might have a look at in Mackenzie. A gigantic yellow machine sat next to Hwy 39 right at the edge of town. Lupe stopped by to see what it was.

The yellow monster turned out to be “The World’s Largest Tree Crusher“. The electrically powered tree crusher had arrived at Kennedy Siding, wherever that was, in late 1964. Plagued with problems, it saw use in 1965 clearing 2,590 acres of forest, but apparently little actual use for its intended purpose after that. Now it was a tourist attraction.

Lupe visits “The World’s Largest Tree Crusher” in Mackenzie, British Columbia.

It’s a mighty odd tourist attraction, Loop. How many people make travel plans to see a giant tree crusher, anyway?

You did.

I did not! This is purely accidental. We came here to see Williston Lake, and found this beastly behemoth instead. No doubt it’s an engineering feat of sorts, although the sign says it had lots of problems, but it’s kind of a nightmarish thing, isn’t it? Can you imagine this metal monster smashing down entire forests, leaving an indiscriminate wake of destruction in its path?

It does look terrifying. I’m glad it’s dead!

The World’s Largest Tree Crusher was just plain scary to think about!

Without ever catching so much as a glimpse of Williston Lake, Lupe and SPHP returned to Hwy 97 and continued N. Near Chetwynd, SPHP took Hwy 29, a shortcut to the Alaska Highway NW of Fort St. John. Lupe stopped by Moberly Lake, which looked beautiful and remote where the highway first reached it.

Lupe at the E end of **Moberly Lake** where Hwy 29 first reaches it coming from Chetwynd. Photo looks W.

Lupe and SPHP took a short walk. Moberly Lake was certainly beautiful, surrounded by low mountains. Lupe could see only part of it from here, since it was miles long. However, the lake was not as remote as it first appeared. It turned out there were recreational facilities along the S shore, and lots of homes in the community of Moberly Lake along the N shore where Hwy 29 went.

**Moberly Lake** wasn’t as remote as it first appeared, but was beautiful nevertheless. Lupe discovered there were recreational facilities along the S shore. The community of Moberly Lake was strung out along the N shore where Hwy 29 went.

Beyond Moberly Lake, Hwy 29 eventually crossed a bridge over the Peace River, whereupon it turned NE following the Peace River valley downstream. The valley was very pretty, bordered by forested ridges on both sides, and full of fields along the river bottom After some distance, Hwy 29 climbed out of the valley to a high point where there was a rest area with a great view.

Lupe had a great view of the Peace River valley from a rest stop positioned at this high point along Hwy 29. Photo looks SW.

The Peace River with a bit of help from the telephoto lens.

The Peace River flows out of Williston Lake. Information at the rest stop showed that Lupe would have been able to access the Peace Reach of Williston Lake, if she had left Hwy 29 at Hudson’s Hope taking Canyon Drive to the W.A.C Bennett Dam. Oh well, too late now. SPHP had no intention of backtracking that far.

Looking downstream from the rest stop. Photo looks ENE.

The nice Peace River sight-seeing break at the rest stop was the last big one Lupe got all day. Hwy 29 ended at the Alaska Highway a few miles NW of Fort St. John. SPHP drove into town to gas up the G6. Then Lupe cruised N and W on the Alaska Highway the rest of the day with only a few brief stops along the way.

Dusk found Lupe W of Fort Nelson, stopped for the night at a pullout at a low spot along the Alaska Highway. A creek could be heard nearby, but this must have been a swampy area. Swarms of mosquitoes discouraged any lengthy ventures out of the G6. The world turned dark. After a bite to eat, SPHP pulled Lupe’s blankie over her, and it was off to adventures in Dingo dreamland.

Taking a brief break along the Alaska Highway somewhere between Fort St. John and Fort Nelson.

Big clouds sailed over the Alaska Highway on the way to Fort Nelson. Lupe eventually passed through rain showers, then saw a rainbow in Fort Nelson.

The Berg Lake Trail, Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada (7-30-13)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Sunwapta Falls, Athabasca Falls, Overlander Falls & Rearguard Falls in the Canadian Rockies (8-3-16 & 8-4-16)

Day 5 (Part 2) & Day 6 of Lupe’s 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

After an overcast, drippy morning, Lupe’s excursions to the toe of the Athabasca Glacier and Wilcox Pass had turned out great! The weather had gradually cleared up as the day went on. At mid-afternoon, as Lupe and SPHP headed N on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 looking for the next adventure, sunny blue skies prevailed.

Why not go take a look at Sunwapta Falls? These mighty falls contain the meltwaters of the Athabasca Glacier, which Lupe had just visited.

Well, one reason not to was that the Sunwapta Falls parking lot was packed. It took a while for a parking spot to open up. Lupe and SPHP went to see Sunwapta Falls along with the rest of the teeming throng. No doubt about it, Sunwapta Falls was gorgeous. A huge torrent of water plunged into a deep narrow gorge the Sunwapta River has carved over eons right through the rock.

Sunwapta Falls. This is upper Sunwapta Falls located near the parking lot. A trail leads downstream to a series of 3 more waterfalls in quick succession collectively known as lower Sunwapta Falls.

The bridge across the Sunwapta River below the falls was loaded with people. More tourists lined the chain link fences along the edges of the gorge. Lupe was lost and confused in the crowd. Once before, Lupe had taken a trail to lower Sunwapta Falls, a series of three more waterfalls in close succession downstream. The lower falls were equally impressive and worthwhile.

It wasn’t all that far to lower Sunwapta Falls. Unfortunately, today that was probably a disadvantage. The lower falls would likely be pretty busy, too. Not nearly as crowded as the upper falls, perhaps, but still busy. Lupe would have more fun somewhere else. Fortunately, Lupe and SPHP’s favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park wasn’t that far away. Lupe and SPHP returned to the G6, and continued N.

Maybe Lupe’s favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park is only intended for use by locals? It’s right off the W side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93, about 5 or 6 miles S of Athabasca Falls, but there is no sign for it anywhere along the highway. The picnic ground features only a handful of picnic tables situated right up on the E bank overlooking the Athabasca River. Across the giant river are beautiful peaks of the Canadian Rockies.

When Lupe and SPHP arrived, the picnic ground was empty. Simply fantastic! Lupe rushed down to cool off in the meltwater swollen Athabasca River. She searched for squirrels in the forest, and found a few, too! Lupe and SPHP played Dingo games. No one came. Lupe was free to be herself. The American Dingo was having a blast!

Lupe shakes herself off after cooling down in the Athabasca River.

Happy times - looking for squirrels. — Happy times – looking for squirrels.

Found one! There's a squirrel in this tree! — Found one! There’s a squirrel in this tree!

Glacial meltwater tastes great when your barker gets dry!

In the Athabasca River next to her favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park. Photo looks upstream (S).

View across the Athabasca River from Lupe’s favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park. Not too shabby, aye?

When early evening arrived, it was time to leave the picnic ground to go take a look at Athabasca Falls. There were still people around this very popular and impressive waterfall, but a big majority of the usual daytime crowds had by now departed. A tremendous torrent of the combined Sunwapta and Athabasca Rivers roared over the falls.

Lupe at Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park, Canada.

Mighty Athabasca Falls is located just off the W side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93. The falls are reached via a turn onto Highway 93A.

Short trails and bridges lead to viewpoints on both sides of Athabasca Falls, and even down to a viewpoint in the gorge below. Lupe explored them all.

The frothy Athabasca River churns through the narrow gorge below the falls.

After visiting Athabasca Falls, Lupe and SPHP continued N to the tourist and railroad town of Jasper. Lupe didn’t stay in Jasper long, though. Soon Lupe and SPHP were heading NW on Yellowhead Highway No. 16 toward British Columbia. It was a beautiful evening for a drive through the Canadian Rockies, but had been another long day, too. As SPHP drove, the weary American Dingo snoozed on her pile of blankets and pillows.

In Mount Robson Provincial Park, SPHP stopped the G6 at a long pullout near Yellowhead Lake. The lake was hidden by trees. Lupe and SPHP got out to take a look. A trail led through the forest and down a very steep bank to reach the shore of the lake.

Lupe by the shore of scenic Yellowhead Lake in Mount Robson Provincial Park. Photo looks SW.

Yellowhead Lake was gorgeous, but unfortunately, there was no trail along the shore. After a few minutes spent down by the lake admiring the view, Lupe and SPHP scrambled back up the steep bank. The dense forest blocked any view of the lake. Lupe’s last brief adventure of the day was spent sniffing around in the woods near Yellowhead Lake.

Lupe and SPHP drove on, but it was getting late. The long Canadian twilight was fading. Day was done. Time to stop for the night.

The next morning, Mount Fitzwilliam was in view, tall and impressive in the early light.

Mt. Fitzwilliam looked very tall and impressive in the early morning light on 8-4-16. Photo looks ESE.

However, Lupe and SPHP were already beyond Mt. Fitzwilliam. Lupe wasn’t going back. Today was a special day. Today Lupe was going N, hundreds of miles farther N than she had ever been before! Most of the day would be spent traveling, but not too far ahead were two more big Canadian waterfalls Lupe could visit along the way. The first was Overlander Falls.

Overlander Falls on the Fraser River is in Mount Robson Provincial Park, within walking distance of the park headquarters. SPHP parked the G6 at a trailhead along Yellowhead Hwy No. 16. A sign at the trailhead displayed a simple map of the area.

This simple map was posted at the trailhead E of the Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters.

Lupe was starting from the E end of the trail system, very close to Overlander Falls. A wide, well-worn path led into the forest from the highway. At first, the path lost elevation gradually, but as the roar of the falls grew louder, the trail started switchbacking down a steep slope.

In only 10 minutes, Lupe was at Overlander Falls. The falls weren’t high at all, but a tremendous volume of beautiful icy blue green water spilled over the brink into a vast swirling pool below.

Overlander Falls wasn't high, but a tremendous volume of beautiful icy blue green water spilled over the brink into a vast swirling pool below. — Overlander Falls wasn’t high, but a tremendous volume of beautiful icy blue green water spilled over the brink into a vast swirling pool below.

Overlander Falls is one of two significant waterfalls on the Fraser River. The other one is Rearguard Falls farther downstream.

A plaque near the falls told the story of how Overlander Falls got its name.

This plaque at the falls relates the history of how Overlander Falls got its name.

The cool mist from Overlander Falls felt good!

Since most of Lupe’s day was going to be spent traveling in the G6, the 1.6 km Overlander Falls trail along the Fraser River to the Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters was an appealing option. No one was around yet, and the trail would provide a peaceful, secluded path through the forest along the scenic blue green river. Lupe could get some exercise, and SPHP would enjoy the views. Lupe was most definitely in favor of the idea!

The Fraser River below Overlander Falls.

As it turned out, the Overlander Falls trail did not stay down near the river. Instead, it paralleled the river mostly 40 to 80 feet above it on the forested slope. The Fraser River was only occasionally in view. The trail was in good condition, but didn’t look like it sees an awful lot of use, perhaps because there are trails to more dramatic destinations nearby. (See Lupe’s fabulous hike to Mount Robson and Berg Lake in 2013 on the Berg Lake Trail!)

The Overlander Falls trail was fairly level most of the time, and an easy hike. It passed Hogan’s camp, established way back when the railroad was being built. The Carolina Dog was not too impressed. Hogan’s camp now amounts to nothing more than a few rotting logs. However, Lupe did enjoy sniffing and exploring in the forest along the trail. She found a few squirrels to bark at, which made her day.

Lupe at one of the few viewpoints above the Fraser River along the Overlander Falls Trail.

Fraser River from the Overlander Falls trail.

At the W end of the Overlander Falls trail, Lupe came to a road at a bridge across the Fraser River. There was no trailhead at this end, just a small sign near the bridge pointing out the trail. Downstream from the bridge was a bend in the Fraser River. Lupe and SPHP went down to the river’s edge so Lupe could get a drink.

Lupe along the Fraser River. The Overlander Falls trail heads upstream from the N side of the bridge seen over the river. A small sign on the upstream side of the road at the start of the bridge is the only indication of the trail’s presence. Photo looks upstream.

After the American Dingo had her drink from the Fraser River, Lupe and SPHP took the road another 0.25 km to the Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters on the N side of Yellowhead Hwy No. 16. Unfortunately, the sky had been clouding up. The summit of Mt. Robson was hidden from view.

Lupe made it to Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters, but sadly the summit of Mount Robson (behind the visitor center) was hidden in the clouds.

Lupe and SPHP returned to the Overlander Falls trail. On the way back to the G6, tragedy struck. Excited by a squirrel, while leaping around in the thick underbrush, Lupe got her right front dewclaw got hooked on something. Her dewclaw snapped completely off! It was painful and bled a little, but not much. The wounded Carolina Dog looked to SPHP for help.

Lupe returns to the Overlander Falls trail.

Lupe in pain with a snapped off right front dewclaw looks to SPHP for help. This photo is typical of the Overlander Falls trail as it went through the deep forest near the Fraser River.

SPHP examined Lupe’s paw, kissed the terrible wound many times, and gave Lupe lots of attention. When that didn’t cure it, SPHP carried Lupe along the trail.

Naturally, her right front paw hurt where the dewclaw had snapped off right at the base. Lupe was certain she couldn’t go on. Until she could. After 15 minutes of being carted around like a sack of potatoes, at Hogan’s camp Lupe decided she could manage on her own just fine. Back at the G6, Dr. SPHP applied anti-biotic ointment and a bandage (9:55 AM).

Lupe recuperating in the G6 with her right front paw with the snapped off dewclaw all bandaged up.

Lupe’s adventures (and misadventures) at Overlander Falls were complete. Time to get back on the road again (10:12 AM), but only for a short stretch. Lupe had very little chance to recuperate before reaching the trailhead for Rearguard Falls. She did fine anyway.

This sign at the Rearguard Falls trailhead told of the end of the salmon’s struggle here in their quest to swim up the Fraser River.

The trail to Rearguard Falls wasn’t very long. Lupe soon came to an elaborate system of walkways with metal railings near the falls. Like Overlander Falls, Rearguard Falls wasn’t all that high. Rearguard Falls was almost more like a cascade. It was still impressive and very beautiful. Lupe and SPHP stayed at Rearguard Falls for close to an hour.

Rearguard Falls on the Fraser River. Rearguard Falls is downstream from Overlander Falls.

Lupe on the boardwalks leading to Rearguard Falls.

Rearguard Falls in Rearguard Falls Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.

Lupe probably would have liked to soak her painful dewclaw wound in the cold waters of Rearguard Falls.

Part of the reason Lupe was at Rearguard Falls so long was that other people kept coming and going. Some of them had very fancy cameras they set up on tripods. At the closest viewpoint next to the falls, several photographers set up their tripods in succession, each one occupying the coveted spot continuously for 15 or 20 minutes.

It didn’t matter to Lupe or SPHP how long they took. The stunningly beautiful river, the hypnotic roar of the falls both soothing and powerful, the mountain scenery, and perfect weather made Rearguard Falls a great place to be. Waiting for a turn at the closest viewpoint, SPHP chatted with people, while Lupe relaxed or enjoyed being admired and petted by friendly tourists.

One lady was here with her husband (who was busy with his camera and tripod at the coveted spot) and two sons. They were from the Netherlands. She said they had saved money for 10 years to come to Canada. Eventually they were going to sail up the inland passage on the Pacific Ocean near the end of their trip. They loved Canada, and were having a fabulous time!

Finally, it was Lupe’s turn at the closest spot to Rearguard Falls. Two photos, a final lingering look, and Lupe’s time at Rearguard Falls was over (11:31 AM).

Lupe at the coveted spot closest to Rearguard Falls.

Lupe and SPHP spent nearly all the rest of the day traveling on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16. Both Lupe and SPHP were farther N than they had ever been before. Lupe was entering a whole new world!

NW of the junction with Hwy 5, traffic on Hwy 16 greatly diminished. Almost everyone else had turned S on Hwy 5 heading for Kamloops. Lupe was in a valley miles wide, with a wall of high mountains on each side. Nearly all the land was forested, but at first there were some farms and fields near the highway, too. Haystacks were abundant, but curiously, not livestock. Lupe watched diligently for a long time, but saw only one herd of cows to bark at.

After a while, the farms and fields disappeared. On both sides of the valley, the high mountains were getting progressively smaller and more distant. Unbroken forest stretched in every direction as far the eye could see. Despite being in what appeared to be a complete wilderness, no wildlife was seen except for ravens picking at roadkill.

With no cows or horses to bark at, and no wildlife to hold her attention, Lupe’s eyelids began to droop. Soon she was snoozing, as the countless miles of endless forest went by. To SPHP, it was all increasingly magical, to be here, at last, with Lupe in a wilderness that stretched ahead for not only hundreds, but literally thousands of miles, heading toward the unknown.

With no cows or horses to bark at, and no wildlife to hold her attention, Lupe drifted off to a peaceful sleep on her way to more adventures as the miles flew by. Maybe her snooze wasn't all peaceful? While in Dingo Dreamland, sometimes her lips and paws twitched. — With no cows or horses to bark at, and no wildlife to hold her attention, Lupe drifted off to a peaceful sleep on her way to more adventures as the miles flew by. Maybe her snooze wasn’t all peaceful? While in Dingo Dreamland, sometimes her lips and paws twitched.

Granted, what lay ahead wasn’t completely unknown. SPHP had maps and descriptions, had seen photos online, and had a general plan for Lupe’s 2016 Dingo Vacation adventures. All that was helpful, necessary and informative to a degree, but only scratched the surface of the possibilities and realities in this gigantic new territory Lupe was traveling through. And all the preparations weren’t the same as finally being here, actually seeing it all for the very first time.

The mountains were gone, replaced by distant blue ridges, by the time Lupe neared Prince George. Lupe woke up as the G6 slowed entering the city. Prince George turned out to be a lively and attractive city situated along the scenic Fraser River. It was the only large town Lupe would see in all of British Columbia. SPHP made a couple of stops for gas and groceries.

As Hwy 16 headed WNW from Prince George, farms and fields appeared again, carved out of the seemingly limitless forest. To Lupe, the open fields meant cows and horses. This time the Carolina Dog wasn’t disappointed. Although most of the fields were full of haystacks and bales, Lupe did see lots of cows and horses. She got plenty of most satisfying barking in. Now and then she had to stop long enough to slurp up water to wet her poor overworked parched barker.

At a rest stop near Cluculz Lake, Lupe and SPHP devoured half of a whole roasted chicken purchased in Prince George, while a rain shower passed over. Between the exciting cows and horses, and tasty roasted chicken, Lupe was very much revived. Back on the road again, she remained awake and watchful.

The long drive was marvelously relaxing. Lush green fields surrounded by dark forests appeared, and subsequently retreated from view. Distant blue ridges defined the horizon. Gray white clouds drifted across a partly sunny blue sky, trailing rain dark streaks of rain behind them. For a long time, the G6 said it was a perfect 71°F out.

The green fields closer to Prince George gradually disappeared, swallowed by the primal forest. Lupe passed through a few small towns of significance – Vanderhoof, Fraser Lake, and Burns Lake. The farther Lupe went, the less traffic remained on the road. The sun was low by the time Lupe reached Houston, a tiny, quiet community near the Bulkley River.

In Houston, right alongside Yellowhead Highway No. 16, was a very beautiful small park with a fountain, manicured lawn, and a profusion of vibrantly colored flowers. Here Lupe and SPHP stopped to stretch their legs and admire Houston’s crown jewel, in the little time remaining while it was all still aglow in the sharply slanting rays of earth’s sinking star.

Lupe reached beautiful Steelhead Park in Houston, British Columbia near day's end. — Lupe reached beautiful Steelhead Park in Houston, British Columbia near day’s end.

Steelhead Park was full of a dazzling array of colorful flowers in perfect condition.

It must take an enormous amount of work to keep Steelhead Park looking so immaculately manicured. The entire park was in tip top shape!

Rainbow trout and steelheads are the same species, but live very different lives. Rainbow trout live their lives entirely in fresh water, while steelheads are anadromous, meaning they spend part of their lives in the sea.

And so, for now, we leave American Dingo explorer and adventurer Lupe in the little town of Houston, deep in northern British Columbia, at the end of Day 6 of her super fabulous Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation among the brilliant blossoms of Steelhead Park.