Sunwapta Falls – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

A Canadian Rockies Waterfall Tour on the Long Drive North, Alberta & British Columbia, Canada (7-25-23 & 7-26-23)

Part 2 of Day 3 & Day 4 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

7-25-23, 4:35 PM, 52ºF, Wilcox campground, Jasper National Park – After closing the side door behind Lupe’s perch, SPHP walked around the RAV4 and hopped into the driver’s seat.

Get all the water we need, SPHP?

Yup. We’re ready to roll, Looper!

Wilcox Pass was awesome, SPHP! What’s next?

Mainly the long drive N, Loop. Need to keep making tracks, if we want to spend as much time as possible in the Yukon & Alaska. You can look at the scenery or snooze on your pink blanket while I drive.

Not that late. It’ll still be light out for a long time, SPHP. Aren’t we going to stop at some of the big Canadian Rockies waterfalls along the way like we usually do? Doesn’t take very long. Most of them are practically right along the highway.

Fully intend to, Loopster. No sense in missing out on your traditional Canadian Rockies waterfall tour. In fact, we probably won’t go too much farther today. We’ll concentrate on making tracks tomorrow once we get past Rearguard Falls.

Sounds good, SPHP, but I’ve got a request. After seeing Tangle Ridge again from up at Wilcox Pass, it reminded me of Tangle Falls. We usually don’t stop there. Can we this time? It isn’t much farther, is it?

Sure! We can stop at Tangle Falls. Think it’s only something like 9 km NW of the Icefields Centre. We’ll be there before you know it, Looper.

7-25-23, 4:48 PM, Icefields Parkway No. 93, Tangle Falls pullout –

Careful, Loop! There’s a ton of traffic. I better leash you up.

Tangle Falls was already partly in sight right across the highway, but to get a really decent look at it, Lupe would have to cross the road. Easily done with a little patience, although room was limited along the steep shoulder on the other side.

**Tangle Falls**, Jasper National Park. Photo looks NE.

Sorry, Loop. Not enough room here to get you in the picture. Want to hike up to the base of the lower falls, like we’ve done before? Can easily get you in there.

Do you even have to ask, SPHP? Of course!

At the **base of Tangle Falls**. Photo looks ESE.

The **lower falls** and crystal clear pool below it. Photo looks SE.

Lupe scrambled around on the rocks at the base of the lower falls amid a fine spray of cool water. Unfortunately, since Tangle Falls is actually a series of waterfalls instead of a single dramatic plunge, the middle and upper falls weren’t in view from the base of the lowest one.

However, while the American Dingo watched, something happened that she’d never seen before here.

Did you see that, SPHP? They found a way up!

Sure enough, L (NW) of the lower falls, 2 young people and a black lab had scrambled up to the next level, and were now out of sight.

Let’s try that, too! C’mon, SPHP!

Caution was required along a near vertical rock wall, but the trickiest part wasn’t all that tall. A route up with only momentary exposure did exist, and that was all there was to it. Entirely worth it, too!

The upper Tangle Falls were undisputedly the best.

Clearly this was it as far as being able to go any higher, but just getting to the base of the upper falls was awesome. Lupe hung around for a little while, enjoying the magnificence of the multiple cascading showers.

So much for making tracks today, though! Upon returning to the RAV4 at the Tangle Falls pullout, 2 young women approached SPHP asking what direction Lupe was going? When SPHP said N, that was the wrong way. They’d done the entire Wilcox Pass trail clear down to Tangle Falls, and needed a ride back to the trailhead at the Wilcox campground.

No worries! It wasn’t that far back. SPHP made room for them. Soon enough, the young ladies were giving Lupe a farewell pat.

Deja vu all over again! Once again, the Carolina Dog headed N. This time the RAV4 went right on by Tangle Falls.

7:25-23, 6:20 PM – Even though skies were rather darkly overcast, SPHP had to wait for a parking spot to open up at Sunwapta Falls. Throngs of people were on the bridge with the best overall views, and many more were right down by the fence near the lip of the mighty roaring torrent. Lupe had to wait her turn to get to see anything at either place.

**Sunwapta Falls** from the pawbridge over the gorge. Photo looks ENE.

Sunwapta Falls is mighty impressive, SPHP, but I seem to recall a lower falls that isn’t nearly this crowded that we went to once.

That’s right, Loopster. We went and saw the lower falls during your first ever Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies. Only about an hour round trip. Shall we? It’s quite a waterfall, too, if I remember right.

The American Dingo did want to see lower Sunwapta Falls again, but didn’t get very far before it started to rain. When persevering another 15 minutes didn’t help, SPHP was done.

Setting off on the **trail to lower Sunwapta Falls** before the rain set in.

Sorry, Loop. Just raining harder. No telling how long it’ll last. We might as well call it before you’re completely soaked.

7-25-23, 7:50 PM, Athabasca River – Naturally, the rain ended when Lupe got back to the RAV4. Shucks! Getting to be about dinner time, anyway. Instead of another foray along the trail to lower Sunwapta Falls, SPHP had driven N to Lupe’s favorite picnic ground along the Athabasca River.

How does chicken and dumplings sound, Looper?

I’m famished, SPHP. Heat ’em up!

Eagerly awaiting chicken and dumplings by the **Athabasca River**. Photo looks WSW.

After dinner, Lupe looked for squirrels in the forest. Didn’t find any, but even merely searching was fun. SPHP threw a squeaker ball for her to chase until it rolled into a mud puddle. During occasional rain showers, SPHP worked on the trip journal in the RAV4 while Lupe snoozed or stared out the window.

In late July, even in southern Canada, it stayed light a long time.

Evening along the **Athabasca River**. Photo looks WNW.

7-26-23, 8:45 AM, 53ºF, Athabasca River – A dangerously daring squirrel had kept Lupe entertained for a couple of hours, and a last romp up and down the river bank was now about over.

A cloudy morning along the **Athabasca River**. Photo looks S.

Back at the picnic ground. Photo looks NW.

Ready for some more Canadian Rockies waterfalls, Loopster? Say yes!

Oh, you know I love this place, SPHP, but I suppose we need to hit the road.

Yes, but not for long, Loop. Our next stop is only 6 or 7 miles N.

7-26-23, 9:00 AM – The parking lot was filling up fast when Lupe arrived at Athabasca Falls. Swarms of tourists were already milling around at the various viewpoints – another wait your turn situation.

Combining the power of the Sunwapta and Athabasca Rivers, which merge only 2 or 3 miles downstream of Sunwapta Falls, Athabasca Falls was an even mightier torrent.

**Athabasca River** above the **falls** (far R). **Mount Kerkeslin** (L of Center). Photo looks SE.

Mighty **Athabasca Falls**. Photo looks NE.

Over countless eons, Athabasca Falls carved narrow chutes into the solid rock below the falls. A path down one abandoned chute led to views of both the gorge currently channeling the flow, and the region below it where the Athabasca River spreads out again.

**Athabasca Falls** plunges into a narrow gorge. Photo looks ESE.

The current course from above. Photo looks WNW.

A glimpse of the gorge currently in use. Photo looks SE.

The **Athabasca River** where it spreads out again below the falls. Photo looks NNW.

Athabasca Falls was it for Jasper National Park. Lupe would see two more big waterfalls in the Canadian Rockies today, but they were both on the Fraser River in British Columbia, and a bit of a drive now. After fueling up the RAV4 in Jasper, the American Dingo was free to snooze on her pink blanket while SPHP drove WNW through occasional drizzle on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16.

7-26-23, 10:20 AM, 54ºF – The mountains may have been hidden in the clouds, but that wasn’t going to prevent Lupe from enjoying the beauty of Overlander Falls in Mount Robson Provincial Park. Only 10 minutes on a well-worn path through the forest with a few switchbacks near the end got the Carolina Dog down to a giant, swirling, blue-green pool just below the falls.

Setting out on the **Overlander Falls trail**.

**Overlander Falls** in **Mount Robson Provincial Park**, British Columbia.

Overlander Falls wasn’t very tall, but the Fraser River was already an impressively powerful stream at this point.

7-26-23, 10:59 AM, 57ºF – Rearguard Falls Provincial Park wasn’t much farther. Rearguard Falls wasn’t even as tall as Overlander Falls, almost just a big rapids, but was definitely worth the short hike on another easy path leading down to it. The trail ended at a series of boardwalk steps and platforms with railings. There had been a few people at Overlander Falls, but Lupe had Rearguard Falls all to herself this morning.

Signage up by the highway at the start of the Rearguard Falls trail.

**Rearguard Falls** from the upper view deck.

On the **lower deck** right next to the falls.

Once Rearguard Falls was in the rearview mirror, this really did become a travel day. Stops were few and far between. The American Dingo got to spend a little time at the Phil and Jennie Gaglardi Park in McBride, and also at a favorite rest area currently undergoing renovation along the Goat River, but that was about it until mid-afternoon.

At the **Phil & Jennie Gaglardi Park** next to the Fraser River in **McBride**.

Beneath the Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 bridge over the **Goat River**.

Shortly after passing the Ancient Forest, SPHP stopped for a hitchhiker who was trudging along carrying a heavy guitar case. Lupe met Asheim, who had finished a 3 month stint planting trees for a logging company. Asheim had been walking for 5 hours, and was deeply grateful for a lift to Prince George.

7-26-23, 4:29 PM, 72ºF – Turned out that Asheim’s ultimate destination was his native, spectacularly mountainous, land of Kashmir, a bit out of the way for the Carolina Dog and SPHP to completely accommodate. After dropping Asheim off in Prince George, SPHP fueled up the RAV4, then invested in fried chicken and OJ at Save on Foods.

Lupe wasn’t keen on the OJ, but quite happy to munch away on some fried chicken as she hit the road again.

The darkly overcast sky had finally brightened on the way into Prince George, and conditions kept improving during the long drive WNW on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16. Brief stops to sniff the air and stretch at the Culculz Lake and Dry Williams Lake rest areas were it for breaks.

7-26-23, 8:44 PM – Crossing the bridge over the Bulkley River, the sun was already near the horizon. A R turn after the bridge, and SPHP parked the RAV4.

Sweet! Would have been better if we’d made it here a little sooner, but at least we’ve got 10 minutes before sunset. C’mon Loopster!

Where are we, SPHP?

Steelhead Park in Houston. Time to stop and sniff the roses, or whatever they planted this year!

Arriving at **Steelhead Park** shortly before sunset.

Steelhead Park has been a favorite ever since Lupe’s first visit in 2016. Back then the park had been at the height of its glory. The flowers on display were no longer quite as spectacular, and Lupe was disappointed to see that the fountain still hadn’t been repaired yet. Even so, Steelhead Park was still very beautiful, and this evening’s stroll through it was a perfect way to end the day.

By the sadly still defunct **Steelhead Park fountain**.

**Steelhead Park** still boasts some **gorgeous flowers**, though!

All too soon, the sun was down and light was fading.

Still a long way to the Yukon Territory and Alaska, but that was OK. The American Dingo had gotten far enough to be within striking distance of her next great adventure.

At **Steelhead Park**, Houston, British Columbia, Canada (7-26-23)

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Smoke & Water – The Canadian Rockies to the Babine Mountains (8-7-18 & 8-8-18)

Day 4 & Part of Day 5 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

8-7-18, 7:46 AM, 53°F, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada – SPHP pulled out onto Icefields Parkway Hwy 93. Within minutes, Lupe saw Bow Lake again, and magnificent Mount Jimmy Simpson (9,731 ft.). Yesterday she’d had the grand good fortune to make it to the summit, but mountain climbing wasn’t on the agenda today. This was a rest and travel day.

Not the kind of hurried, don’t stop for anything except restrooms, fuel, and food sort of travel. The Canadian Rockies are too wonderful for that! Although the American Dingo was going hundreds of miles, she would still have opportunities to stop at favorite places along the road.

So that was the plan. By the time Lupe reached Jasper National Park, though, the sky was uncharacteristically hazy. Smoke from distant forest fires dimmed normally crisp views of the mountains.

8-7-18, 9:09 AM, 58°F, Icefields Centre, Jasper National Park – Smoky, but not bad. SPHP stopped so Lupe could see one of the Canadian Rockies’ most amazing views from the highway, the Athabasca Glacier. The huge glacier, one of six major arms of the Columbia Icefield, has retreated a long way over the past century, but remains a must see, if one has any opportunity at all!

Of course, Lupe had seen the Athabasca Glacier before – a couple of times from an even more spectacular vantage point up by Wilcox Pass. Despite the smoke, the view from the highway was still absolutely worthwhile.

*The **Athabasca Glacier** is a must see attraction of the Canadian Rockies!* Photo looks SW.

**Mount Athabasca**, one of several splendid peaks near the Athabasca Glacier. Photo looks SSE.

**Mount Athabasca (11,453 ft.)** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSE.

As Lupe and SPHP continued N on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93, the smoky haze did not diminish. The smoke marred views of the mountains, but didn’t interfere with sights closer by. Waterfalls, rivers, and lakes were destined to become the focus for the day. Luckily, the Carolina Dog was going to go right past some great ones!

8-7-18, 9:57 AM, 62°F, Sunwapta Falls, Jasper National Park – The first big waterfall N of the Athabasca Glacier was Sunwapta Falls. The silt-laden Sunwapta River was running high. A torrent of light gray water swept by an upstream island then plunged into a narrow gorge immediately downstream.

Lupe checked out the impressive scene from both a bridge over the gorge, and a chain link fence at the very brink of the falls.

**Sunwapta Falls**. The **Sunwapta River** starts at Sunwapta Pass at the S end of Jasper National Park. Meltwaters from the Athabasca Glacier contribute to the flow.

*Wow! I don’t think we’ve ever seen **Sunwapta Falls** with such tremendous flow before!*

8-7-18, 10:28 AM, 68°F, Athabasca River, Jasper National Park – The Sunwapta River flows into the mighty Athabasca River. Athabasca Falls was going to be absolutely roaring today! Before Lupe got that far, though, SPHP stopped at the American Dingo’s favorite picnic ground on the W side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.

This choice spot right along the Athabasca River was often completely vacant several years ago when Lupe first discovered it. For some reason there hadn’t been any signage for it along the highway. Signage was sadly present now, but since it was still a bit early for lunch, Lupe found her picnic ground delightfully quiet again this morning.

Loop enjoyed a stroll upstream along the Athabasca River, spent some time roaming the forest looking for squirrels to bark at, and even went wading along the river’s edge. Having skipped breakfast, SPHP had an early lunch at one of the tables overlooking the river, while catching up the trip journal.

*How’s this for a view from your picnic table? There’s always squirrels in the forest, too!*

*I’ll stay right by the edge here, SPHP, promise! I remember that giant waterfall downstream. Not going over that!* Loop in the **Athabasca River**.

8-7-18, 11:31 AM, 75°F, Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park – The turn to Athabasca Falls was only 5 miles N of the picnic ground. This close to noon on a lovely day in early August, Athabasca Falls was teeming with tourists. Justifiably so. Lupe and SPHP played tourist, too. It was a wait your turn at the viewpoints situation, but totally worth it.

Lupe liked all the activity! People smiled at her, children petted her, plenty of other doggie tourists were available to sniff with, and, of course, there was that enormously powerful waterfall to admire.

*Even if you have to wait in line, just do it! **Athabasca Falls** is so impressive!*

**Athabasca Falls** is 20 miles S of Jasper just off Icefields Parkway Highway 93.

8-7-18, 1:07 PM, Yellowhead Pass – The morning had flown by. After a stop for fuel in Jasper, SPHP drove W on Yellowhead Hwy 16. Only 21 miles to the British Columbia border at Yellowhead Pass (3,760 ft.).

SPHP stopped here briefly, so Loop could stretch her legs. A small lake, Portal Lake, was nearby. A sign said there was a 20 minute return trail along Portal Lake, but Lupe didn’t take it. Greater sights were ahead.

Lupe reaches **British Colombia** at **Yellowhead Pass**.

By **Portal Lake** at **Yellowhead Pass**.

8-7-18, 1:38 PM, 72°F, Moose Lake – At the British Columbia border, Lupe also entered Mount Robson Provincial Park. Continuing W on Hwy 16, SPHP expected the sky to clear any time now, but instead the smoke was getting thicker. By the time Lupe made it to Moose Lake, it was hard to see the mountains at all.

Fortunately, there were 2 more big waterfalls ahead to look forward to along the Fraser River.

At Yellowhead Pass, Lupe entered Mount Robson Provincial Park.

*Well, here we are at beautiful **Moose Lake** along Hwy 16, but it’s smokier than ever!*

8-7-18, 1:58 PM, 75°F, Overlander Falls, Mount Robson Provincial Park – The first waterfall on the Fraser River was Overlander Falls. A trailhead was right along Hwy 16 just a mile or so before the Mount Robson Park visitor center. Lupe took a shady 10 minute trail from Hwy 16 down a series of switchbacks to the gorgeous waterfall.

Overlander Falls was only 30 feet high, but the Fraser River gushing through a narrow gap and dropping into a huge swirling pool of pale blue-green waters was an amazing sight. While relaxing by Overlander Falls, Lupe wound up making a new friend from Saskatchewan.

*10 minutes on this lovely trail will get us down to Overlander Falls!*

**Overlander Falls** is the uppermost of 2 major waterfalls on the **Fraser River**.

**Overlander Falls** isn’t as big as Sunwapta Falls or Athabasca Falls, but the color of the water and this big swirling pool are simply amazing!

*There’s always time for love and new friends!*

8-7-18, 3:16 PM, 78°F, Rearguard Falls Provincial Park – The second major waterfall along the Fraser River was only 10 miles from Overlander Falls. Rearguard Falls has its own provincial park! Once again, Lupe took a 10 or 15 minute trail from a trailhead right along Hwy 16 down to the waterfall.

Rearguard Falls wasn’t even as high as Overlander Falls, almost more of a giant rapids than a waterfall, but the breadth and strength of the water surging over it was also impressive. A sign up by the parking lot said Rearguard Falls was as far up the Fraser River as salmon were able to make it.

*Here’s the plan, SPHP! When we get down to the falls, I’ll race in and snag us one of the big salmon leaping out of the river, while you fight off the bears. Ready? Let’s do this!*

*I can almost taste that big delicious salmon already! Come on, it’s this way!*

A first glimpse of **Rearguard Falls** from the trail.

*How’s this for a snazzy walkway setup? We’re almost to Rearguard Falls now.*

**Rearguard Falls**. The air was still smoky, but the **Fraser River** was simply gorgeous!

**Rearguard Falls** on the Fraser River.

*So beautiful! Kind of a shame there aren’t any salmon here today, though. I was really looking forward to seeing SPHP fend off the grizzly bears, while I nabbed us dinner!*

8-7-18, 5:06 PM, Goat River, British Columbia – After leaving Rearguard Falls, it hadn’t been much farther to the junction with Yellowhead South Hwy 5. Nearly all the traffic went that way, heading for Kamloops. Lupe and SPHP stayed on Yellowhead Hwy 16 going NW following the wide Fraser River valley.

The Fraser River was seldom in view, but this was now a most relaxing drive with virtually no traffic. Loopster was well past McBride, the only community of any significant size, when, after crossing a bridge, a short side road led down to a rest area and picnic ground by the Goat River. This was a beautiful spot Lupe had been to once before in 2016.

It wasn’t quite time to eat yet, but the Carolina Dog was happy making a brief exploration along the river.

Lupe enjoys a drink from the **Goat River.**

The **Goat River** was considerably higher than when Lupe had stopped here in 2016.

The Goat River was a nice break, but the last one of the day. The long drive continued. Lupe went through Prince George (86°F!) and beyond, still on Yellowhead Hwy 16. The whole day, for hundreds of miles, had been smoky. If anything, the smoke was getting worse.

8-7-18, 8:43 PM, 67°F, Dry Williams Lake – Beyond Fort Fraser a pinkish-red sun sank into the murk. An eerie twilight developed. The smoke was bad. Nevertheless, time to call it a day. A rest area appeared a few miles farther on at Dry Williams Lake. This would do nicely! There were picnic tables, and a mowed area where the American Dingo could romp with a view of the lake.

Lupe had gone a long way today. The day’s highlights had all involved water in some form – a glacier, waterfalls, rivers and lakes. Smoke had increasingly spoiled the mountain views, but it couldn’t last forever, could it? After dinner (not fresh salmon unfortunately), the Carolina Dog curled up on her pile of pillows and blankets to snooze and dream of crystal blue skies tomorrow.

8-8-18, 6:45 AM, 54°F, Dry Williams Lake – The sun rose as it had sunk last night, oddly colored from a murky sea of smoke where a horizon should have been. Any dreams of crystal blue skies were apparently just that – dreams. The forest fires must not be terribly far away. The G6 was covered with a layer of ash. A short stroll around the rest area to let Lupe do some sniffing, then it was time to hit the road again.

Lupe had barely left Dry Williams Lake, when upon rounding a bend in the road, a patch of blue sky was visible to the N. The end of the smoke! Conditions improved steadily. Crystal blue skies weren’t a mere dream! It took an hour and a half to drive completely out of the smoke. By then it wasn’t much farther to Houston.

A stop in Houston is traditional, perhaps even mandatory. Lupe always visits Houston’s lovely Steelhead Park. Hwy 16 goes right past it. Loop wasn’t about to miss out on Steelhead Park on this crystal blue summer day, a dream come true!

**Steelhead Park** in Houston is a piece of paradise! Come on, let’s go sniffing around. The sniffing is fantastic here!

**Steelhead Park** is supposed to be in honor of steelhead fishing, which Houston is famous for, but for me, it’s all about the flowers.

**Steelhead Park**, Houston, British Columbia

*Kind of bright out with the smoke gone.*

*Why, it’s a Dingo god! It’s OK, though, if you just keep worshiping me, SPHP!*

*There’s the steelhead pond, over there.*

*Hey, SPHP! Here’s our big chance! Not a bear in sight. I’ll go nab us a steelhead from the pond.*

*Too late! Not a single one left! Wonder if the city of Houston knows all their steelheads are gone? Either bears got ’em or people bought ’em. The pond is full of coins.*

Steelhead Park was a lovely break from the road. Lupe had a fun time sniffing among the brilliant flowers. Adventure was calling, though.

Lupe and SPHP left Steelhead Park at 9:45 AM. Less than 2 hours later, the Carolina Dog was standing on Babine Lake Road E of Smithers with her next big adventure in sight.