Day 6 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
Morning, Driftwood Canyon Provincial Park – The hopeful promise of clearing skies yesterday evening had been dashed by raindrops during the wee hours. Lupe woke to a soft gray fog in the treetops.
Not looking good for mountain climbing today, is it, SPHP?
Certainly isn’t, Loop, but maybe we should give it a chance? We could kill some time taking the bridge over Driftwood Creek. Supposed to be some famous fossil beds at the end of a short trail over there. Want to do that?
The Carolina Dog wasn’t so sure that she did, hesitating at the metal grate bridge before following SPHP across.
Several plaques were along the trail, which led through a dark forest. At the end, a small clearing provided a view of a steep hillside. Turned out the fossil beds were way up near the top. Signs warned against climbing the hillside to see them, although the scarred slope made it clear that lots of people did.
No fossils to look at, not even any squirrels in this forest, SPHP. I’m not overly impressed.
Nice enough stroll, but kind of a bust, isn’t it, Loop? Back to the RAV4?
Fine with me, SPHP, but then what?
Let’s head into Smithers and find out what the forecast is, Looper. If it’s going to stay all cloudy and drippy like this, we might as well keep driving. Still a long way to Alaska, you know.
Can’t you check the forecast on your fancy new iPhone, SPHP? I thought that was supposed to be one of the grand new capabilities it offered us?
I could, but we don’t seem to have service in Canada, Loop.
Magnificent! No service in Canada, where we always like to go! How did you manage that, SPHP?
Chalk it up to my usual brilliance, Loopster. C’mon, let’s get out of here!
The Smithers Visitor Center had free wi-fi. Took SPHP a while to figure out how to even use wi-fi, but a weather forecast eventually did pop up on the iPhone’s screen.
Better than I thought, Loopster! Cloudy, high of 55ºF, with a 30% chance of showers today, then sunny with highs in the 70’s ºF for the next 4 days.
Sounds beautiful starting tomorrow then. We should stick around, SPHP! What can we do in Smithers today?
Play tourist, I suppose. Or you know what, Loop? We could go on our first ever backpacking trip in Canada! Take the McCabe Trail, and set up base camp near Mount Hyland(7,477 ft.) in the Babine Mountains. Should have a sunny day for climbing Mount Hyland tomorrow!
That sounds awesome, SPHP! Let’s do it!
1:14 PM, 52ºF – Mount Hyland meant a drive back to Driftwood Road again, this time all the way to the trailhead at the very end. Quite a few vehicles were present, but no one was around. SPHP had the pack ready, and the American Dingo was about to set off on the Silver King Trail, a wide, smooth path.
Hmm. Sign says 1.3 km to where the McCabe Trail branches off, Looper.
This looks super easy, SPHP! Like a stroll through the park.
Indeed it was! Climbing gradually, the Silver King Trail was apparently an abandoned road, at least here at the start. Driftwood Creek could be heard somewhere off to the W (L) in the forest, and soon flowed close to the trail, although still seldom seen due to trees and tall vegetation. The big, clear-running stream was very scenic when Lupe could manage to get a glimpse of it, flowing swiftly among mossy boulders.
After a short stretch flowing near the trail, Driftwood Creek veered back off into the forest. The stream did not appear again, although it could still be heard not too far away. Before long, Lupe reached the junction where the McCabe Trail took off to the NE (R).
What does this sign say, SPHP?
8.5 km to Summit Pass, Looper. Not bad at all! A mere 9.8 km total from the trailhead.
The McCabe Trail began as a smaller road, but quickly climbing 60 feet, it then leveled out as an excellent single track traversing the steep lower N slopes of Harvey Mountain(6,083 ft.). Progress was rapid as the trail ran E through an impressively dense forest.
For quite a long way, there were no views other than the dim forest. The air was cool, moist, and heavy. Other than the sound of Driftwood Creek somewhere far below, silence reigned. Sudden movement among the thick moss and abundant undergrowth next to the trail revealed a toad.
On and on! The McCabe Trail climbed gradually, still interspersed with flat sections. Although Lupe passed damp spots, no creeks ran down the steep N slopes of Mount Harvey. The dank, quiet atmosphere produced a sensation of extreme remoteness.
This is awesome, SPHP! Can’t wait to see where this leads to!
The trail eventually crossed a rock slide that created an opening where first views of the heavily forested Driftwood Creek Canyon appeared. All the mountaintops were in the clouds, but as Loopster continued on, she came to more openings. The cloud cover was slowly lifting, a mountain strip-tease revealing what was out there.
The McCabe Trail was now climbing steadily. Lupe came to some fairly long stretches where a lack of trees granted what would have been great views of the canyon on a sunnier day, but only SPHP could see them. An explosion of thick plant growth 4 or 5 feet high in these areas had the Carolina Dog traveling through an endless green tunnel.
Lupe was glad when small streams finally did begin to appear, getting a drink from each one. Two were large enough to have eroded out several feet of the trail, but were no real hindrance. A bigger stream had a nice wooden pawbridge.
After crossing the pawbridge, the McCabe Trail angled away from the steep slopes overlooking the Driftwood Creek Canyon. A long, two-plank boardwalk appeared leading through a wet region. Near the upper end of the boardwalk, Lupe passed a sign for the undeveloped Blix Route, which went S to the Lyon Creek Trail.
Upon reaching drier terrain, the boardwalk ended. The McCabe Trail continued climbing at a moderate pace through the forest. Now beyond the N slopes of Harvey Mountain, Lupe started getting glimpses of the N end of Pyramid Mountain(6,273 ft.) ahead.
Soon the forest was thinning rapidly. Lupe began coming to lush glades full of brilliant wildflowers.
The wildflower zone didn’t last long. Turning E, after climbing only a bit higher, the McCabe Trail flattened out once again in a region of scattered conifers and low tundra vegetation. For the first time, a pass was visible off to the E beneath thick clouds.
That’s got to be it, SPHP! Summit Pass! That’s where we’re going, right?
Yes, I do believe you’re right, Loopster. Really isn’t that much higher than where we are already. What, 2 miles away? No more than that.
After crossing the flat region, the trail turned NE, descending rapidly back into the forest. Switchbacking SE, the trail had leveled out after turning E again, when signs indicated the presence of a campground down a spur to the N.
We’ve got time, let’s check out the campground, Loop!
The campground was a simple affair. The spur trail led down to a large, relatively flat clearing. Crossing it, Lupe discovered two stone fire rings with a log to sit on near each one. Off to the E, a stream wound mostly unseen through a bushy wetland. No one was here at the moment.
Nice enough place to camp, SPHP. Certainly a wilderness experience, but it feels like we’re down in a hole. Let’s keep going!
Intend to, Loop. Just wanted to see what was here while we were nearby.
Returning to the McCabe Trail, the American Dingo continued E. The trail skirted the S side of the bushy wetlands, and led to a bridge over the stream flowing into them. Back to the NNW, the sky was brightening. Mount Elmsted(7,244 ft.), and even part of The Galleon(7,844 ft.), was now in view.
Passing through another stretch of forest, the McCabe trail climbed again. The trees were soon thinning rapidly. As Lupe broke out of the forest, a small lake was visible to the S, and blue skies were overhead. The day had been on the cool side, but now began to heat up. This next section of trail was the steepest of the entire journey.
Eh! Still only a moderately paced climb, although SPHP did pause to gasp for breath fairly often, because the pack was starting to feel heavy by now. The trail leveled out again for a little way, before resuming its ascent. Suddenly Lupe was passing the last stunted trees, the McCabe Trail still heading E toward open tundra.
To the NE, two great arms of a mountain cradled a vast bowl between them. A waterfall roared in the distance, cascading from the lower end.
Loop, look! That’s Mount Hyland(7,477 ft.)! Tomorrow we’ll explore that huge valley between those massive ridges!
Lupe stuck with the McCabe Trail a little farther, but the Carolina Dog was so excited she soon took off streaking across the tundra. This was exactly the sort of alpine territory she loved most! Marmots whistled warnings in all directions as Looper sniffed and ran over hill and dale.
5:40 PM, base camp S of Mount Hyland – SPHP had the tiny house set up on a ridge a few hundred feet NW of the McCabe Trail. Lupe rested on the tundra nearby, watching a huge gray cloud envelop Mount Hyland.
What a spectacular setting, aye, Looper? Hope these clouds are actually gone by tomorrow morning, though!
This is fabulous, SPHP! Another Dingo Paradise! Loving it!
Cooling off again as these clouds roll in, but there’s still some blue sky to the E. We’ve got a few hours of daylight left, Loop. Want to visit Summit Pass, just to say we’ve been there?
How much farther is it, SPHP?
Oh, 0.5 km or so, maybe a little more. Won’t take long. Not much of a climb from here, and lots of wonderful tundra along the way!
Energized by the mountain air and vast open terrain, Lupe had a blast! SPHP stuck to the McCabe Trail, while the American Dingo roamed at will. The trail passed several small tarns. At intervals, wooden posts marked the route, although there was never any doubt.
5:55 PM – At Summit Pass, a post marked a 3-way junction. This was the end and high point of the McCabe Trail. From here, the Little Joe Creek Trail continued E, and the Lyon Creek Trail headed SW.
Congratulations, Loopster! You’ve explored the entire McCabe Trail today!
It’s a great trail, SPHP! Love where it got us to. Wasn’t all that hard to get here, either.
Mount Hyland will be more of a challenge, I’m sure! Well, I suppose we ought to head back to the tiny house, sweet puppy. Have a bite to eat, then hit the hay. Big day tomorrow! Glad we got to enjoy this nice evening romp to Summit Pass, though.
Part of Day 5 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!
This had to be it, didn’t it? Two short gravel roads had led up a forested embankment on the N side of Old Babine Lake Road to opposite ends of a big level area, which certainly looked like a trailhead. Absolutely no one around, though. Not even one other vehicle here. SPHP parked the G6 (11:27 AM, 68°F), and Lupe hopped out.
A jeep trail disappeared into the forest from the NE end of the parking area. This was a trailhead, alright. A sign warned about avalanches, a threat not particularly high on Lupe’s worry list in early August. At each of the entrance roads were signs saying user fees were in effect, and trail passes were mandatory. Upon closer inspection, it appeared these rules only applied to snowmobilers.
This must be the place, but would be nice to confirm it before wandering off up the jeep trail. Looper and SPHP took a stroll back down to Old Babine Lake Road. Ah, yes! A sign was posted up on the embankment. Although looking for a sign on the way in, SPHP hadn’t seen it. No doubt at all now. Lupe was definitely at the Onion Mountain trailhead.
Lupe had barely left the trailhead when a colorful billboard appeared in the forest. Posted by the Smithers Snowmobile Association, it was all about The Big Onion Snowmobile trails.
The billboard only served to confirm that Loopster was on the correct route. Her peakbagging objective for the day was to reach the summit of The Little Onion(5,220 ft.). If that went well, maybe she could try for Astlais Mountain(6,037 ft.) and The Big Onion(5,840 ft.), too.
The road climbed steeply through the forest. Loopster had taken a trail to the top of Harvey Mountain(6,083 ft.), which was actually in Babine Mountains Provincial Park nearly a year ago. Back then she had gained something like 2,000 feet of elevation on the Harvey Mountain trail before the forest had thinned enough to get any distant views.
Since Harvey Mountain wasn’t too many miles NW of The Little Onion, SPHP suspected Lupe once again had a long climb ahead of her before she might see much of anything other than the forest. In fact, since The Little Onion was more than 800 feet lower than Harvey Mountain, the big worry was that the summit itself might be heavily forested. Even if Lupe could get there, she might not see a thing.
However, Lupe had only gained a few hundred feet of elevation when the road entered an area where the forest was much more open. She was already getting mountain views to the S and W.
The relentlessly steep march along the road combined with mid-day sun quickly made the day feel hot. Whenever SPHP paused to catch breath, Lupe found shady spots to hide out.
Skies were mostly clear with only a few small clouds, but off to the SE the air was hazy with the smoke of distant forest fires. Yesterday Lupe had traveled hundreds of miles through that smoke. SPHP had driven out of it only a little while ago this morning.
The topo map SPHP had with showed a network of trails or routes in this region, none of which were labeled. As Lupe progressed higher, though, it became clear that this road was definitely one of the routes shown on the map. That was encouraging.
Lupe began coming to places where, according to the map, there were supposed to be intersections. The intersecting routes were frequently overgrown, or faded beyond recognition. Even when these alternate roads actually existed, the route SPHP hoped Looper could take up the Little Onion was consistently in better condition than anything else. And that was very encouraging!
The American Dingo had made substantial progress up the mountain when there was another encouraging development. Many hundreds of feet higher, what looked like it must be the summit of The Little Onion came into view. Although dense forest extended most of the way to the top, the summit appeared to be open ground. Lupe might actually have some fabulous views from up there!
Around 1300 meters (4,265 ft.) elevation, a large shut metal gate similar to one Lupe had seen at Harvey Mountain blocked the road to vehicle traffic. Beyond this gate, the road leveled out in a thickly forested area. This flat stretch led to a signed junction at around 1320 meters (4,331 ft.).
Lupe went L taking the Little Onion Trail. The trail, which was still a road, went through a beautiful forest. The road began climbing again and gradually deteriorated. Although the trailhead was S of The Little Onion, the trail passed well E of the summit before finally arriving at a saddle a short distance NNE.
The Little Onion Trail was quite rocky by the time it reached the saddle. The trail continued over the saddle going NW down the other side. A much rougher spur road left the saddle heading SSW toward the summit of The Little Onion (5,220 ft.), which was only another 100 feet higher. The spur ended close to the top. Lupe finished her ascent with a short, easy stroll.
The Little Onion’s summit was an open ridge covered with grasses and small stones. The ridge was 20 or 30 feet long, big enough to provide plenty of room to move around. A few stunted trees grew at slightly lower levels along the flanks. None were tall enough to interfere with the marvelous views in all directions.
After SPHP congratulated Lupe on reaching The Little Onion, it was time for a look around. The most eye-catching view was of Hudson Bay Mountain(8,494 ft.) off to the W.
To the SW, a line of snowy peaks looked equally rugged, but they were far away. Notable peaks were off the NW, too, but they were even more distant.
To the N, was a terrific view of Astlais Mountain and The Big Onion.
Views to the S and E were pretty, but less dramatic. Mostly big forested hills and ridges. A SW wind was blowing, which SPHP welcomed, since mosquitoes and small flies had at times been bothersome on the way up. Lupe could see smoke to the SE drifting many miles NE on the breeze.
A small loosely constructed cairn sat 10 or 15 feet SW of the highest ground. The weather was ideal, 60°F and mostly sunny. Lupe and SPHP were both glad to take a break and enjoy the views for a while. SPHP draped a jacket over Loop, since she wasn’t a fan of the wind.
More than half an hour passed by at the summit of The Little Onion. The American Dingo’s ascent had gone surprisingly well. The possibility of going on to The Big Onion and Astlais Mountain had always been there. However, at first, they had looked much higher and far away. The longer SPHP contemplated the view, though, the easier it appeared.
Glimpses of roads could be seen on the ridge leading over to The Big Onion, and the map showed a road going up to the high saddle between The Big Onion and Astlais Mountain. Maybe it wouldn’t hurt to go back down to the Little Onion Trail, and follow it NW down the other side of the nearby saddle? That was the right direction, and according to the signs Lupe had seen, the Little Onion Trail was supposed to link up with the Big Onion Trail again.
Perfect day. Why not? May as well try it. Now or never, in any case! A last look around from The Little Onion, then Lupe headed back down the rough spur road to the Little Onion Trail.
Upon reaching the Little Onion Trail again, Lupe followed it NW. The road lost elevation in fits and starts. The trail divided unexpectedly, causing confusion, but merged again almost immediately. The trail then turned N near the start of the ridge leading to The Big Onion.
Instead of going N directly up the ridgeline, the road stayed lower along the E side of the ridge in a heavily forested area. The trail was level, or nearly so, along in here. Before too long, Lupe reached a junction with the Big Onion Trail.
This junction was the official end of the Little Onion Trail. Looper kept going N, now taking the Big Onion Trail toward Alpine Meadows.
A little farther on, the Carolina Dog reached another signed junction. This was the critical one! Lupe had no intention of going all the way to Alpine Meadows. That wasn’t the way to Astlais Mountain or The Big Onion.
At this second junction, a road went W back up onto the ridge leading to The Big Onion. The sign said this road was the Astlais Mountain Trail. The pass below Astlais Mountain was 1.4 km away.
Great news! That was exactly where Lupe needed to go!
So Lupe abandoned The Big Onion Trail, and took the Astlais Mountain Trail W up onto the ridge. Once on the ridge, the road turned N, then subsequently deteriorated to the point where it would be impassable for any vehicle other than an ATV, or perhaps a snowmobile in winter.
The trail did go on, however, and went through a low area where Lupe came to the only water to be found all day. A trickle of a stream formed from little seeping springs ran over the road here, just enough for the Carolina Dog to get a drink. Beyond this point the trail gained elevation at a moderate pace, heading NNW along the SW slope of The Big Onion, but still far below the summit.
Worries that the trail might fade away completely proved unfounded. A much better road soon came in from somewhere off to the SW, and swung sharply around continuing toward the high saddle between The Big Onion and Astlais Mountain.
The new road promptly began climbing at an incredible pace along the very steep W slopes of The Big Onion. Lupe had no troubles, but SPHP lost traction on any loose debris to the point where walking wherever the ground looked firmest, or in piles of loose rock thick enough to offer at least some support, became standard practice.
The mere thought of being in a vehicle going up or down this road was rather frightening to contemplate. Being on paw and foot was certainly much better, even if the long trudge higher was exhausting.
It was a huge relief when the road finally began to level out. Lupe had made it to the high pass between Astlais Mountain and The Big Onion! Beyond the pass, she could see higher peaks to the N for the first time. Those peaks were in Babine Mountains Provincial Park.
After a rest break, the only question now was which to climb first – The Big Onion or Astlais Mountain? Both looked like big hills, basically easy climbs from here. The Big Onion was closer and lower. After initially starting that way, SPHP changed the plan.
Still a lovely day, but more clouds were present than only a little while ago. Maybe Lupe ought to take on Astlais Mountain first? Would be nice to get the higher peak in case the weather deteriorated fast enough to prevent the American Dingo from visiting both. Whatever! Lupe was fine with that.
So Lupe charged up the E slope of Astlais Mountain, while SPHP plodded higher. It hadn’t looked this steep! Nevertheless, this was just a big grassy trudge until fairly close to the top. The terrain then began to get rockier as the slope decreased. The huge summit region was somewhat complex with various rocky knobs and ridges among areas of tundra or bare ground consisting of small loose rock.
It wasn’t immediately clear where the summit was, but a big cairn was soon spotted well W of where Lupe had come up.
The weather hadn’t deteriorated at all during the time it took Lupe to reach the big summit cairn on Astlais Mountain(6,037 ft.). 60°F with a 10 to 15 mph SW breeze, just like at The Little Onion. A beautiful day! Which was great news. Lupe could stay a while!
Hudson Bay Mountain(8,494 ft.) and the other rugged more distant peaks to the SW and NW were all just as beautiful and interesting as they had been from The Little Onion, but the views really weren’t much different in those directions from Astlais Mountain.
The Little Onion(5,220 ft.), which had seemed such an impressive high point only a short while ago, looked small and much lower from Astlais Mountain. Lupe could see part of The Little Onion trail on the N slopes.
Smoke from the forest fires to the S could be seen actually billowing up. The wind must still have been out of the SW way over there, too. A huge plume was drifting NE.
Though Lupe had seen essentially these same views in most directions from The Little Onion, coming to Astlais Mountain had been worthwhile, for off to the N the scene was much different. The American Dingo now had a tremendous view of closer peaks in Babine Mountains Provincial Park (map).
Lupe and SPHP spent a long time gazing N at the splendors on display. SPHP knew the names of a few of the peaks. The Galleon(7,844 ft.) was the most impressive from Astlais Mountain. SPHP scanned the horizon for Mount Cronin(7,861 ft.), and thought Lupe had a glimpse of it, though partially hidden by Mount Hyland (7,478 ft.).
The highest peaks weren’t the only ones of interest. Nearly a year ago Lupe had climbed Harvey Mountain(6,083 ft.), which was off to the NNW. It would have been fun to see Harvey Mountain again, but as it turned out, Padella Peak (6,300 ft.) was in the way.
Astlais Mountain was a fantastic peak! Such a great day, and so much to see from here! 50 glorious minutes shot by at the summit. If Lupe still wanted to visit The Big Onion, too, which she did, it was getting to be time to bid farewell to Astlais. A final look at the mighty Galleon, and the Carolina Dog was on her way.
Upon leaving the summit cairn, Lupe headed E to a high point where she could look down on The Big Onion(5,840 ft.). She then headed N a little way losing elevation gradually, before turning E and descending the much steeper slope to the saddle.
Once down, Lupe crossed the saddle and headed for The Big Onion. She followed a road part of the way, and eventually reached the ridgeline a little way N of the summit. An easy, short trek S along the narrow ridge brought the American Dingo to the top of The Big Onion(5,840 ft.).
The absolute high point consisted of several medium-sized rocks amid tufts of brown grass. The summit was a mostly grassy area atop a rocky knob which dropped off steeply, though not precipitously.
The Big Onion wasn’t high enough to give Lupe quite as grand a view of the heart of the Babine Mountains to the N as she’d had from Astlais Mountain. However, she could see more territory to the E, and the view of Astlais Mountain itself was quite interesting.
Lupe relaxed and enjoyed the beautiful Babine Mountains from the top of The Big Onion for half an hour. Her journey to Astlais Mountain and both Onions had been a huge success! The day had gone far better than SPHP had ever dared to hope. Evening was approaching, however. Lupe began the trek back to the Onion Mountain trailhead.
Lupe’s route back was the same one she’d taken up. The Carolina Dog and SPHP were both in high spirits. The return trip went fast. So fast, in fact, that Loop returned briefly to the summit of The Little Onion. Even after visiting The Big Onion and Astlais Mountain, The Little Onion was still an amazing place! And far to the S, the smoke of distant fires still billowed into the sky.
Then it was down, down, all the way back to the trailhead. (7:26 PM)
SPHP stopped in Smithers for fuel and dinner from Safeway. Twilight was coming on by the time Lupe arrived at a big field along Yellowhead Hwy 16 S of Moricetown. Ancient picnic tables with white peeling paint stood on a bluff overlooking the Bulkley River.
Despite her long afternoon in the Babine Mountains, the American Dingo was still energized. She raced around the G6 playing chase with SPHP, who was, as always, totally outmatched. Lupe was happy, oh, so very happy! And seeing her so, SPHP shared her joy. What a wonderful day this had been!