Part 2 of Day 52 & Days 53 and 54 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
9-12-23, 11:05 AM, 55ºF – After crossing the bridge over the Racing River, the Alaska Highway passed near Racing Peak (4,409 ft.) before curving SE and proceeding up the McDonald Creek valley. During a long climb into Stone Mountain Provincial Park, Lupe had a spectacular view of the huge valley flanked by towering peaks of the Muskwa Ranges.
The highway leveled out at Summit Pass. A lone caribou spotted near the W end of Summit Lake instantly got the Carolina Dog all excited. At the E end of the lake, SPHP pulled into the campground’s day use picnic area. Sniffing along Summit Lake’s shoreline, Lupe had a terrific view of Mount Saint George (7,402 ft.).
9-12-23, 12:11 PM, Summit Lake, Stone Mountain Provincial Park –
Mount Saint George! We weren’t that far from the summit when the weather changed and chased us off the mountain. Remember, SPHP?
Oh, yeah! My poles started buzzing, Looper. Never did that before or since. Pretty good indication that it’s time to vamoose!
Mount Saint George was a fun mountain, SPHP. We ought to try climbing it again.
It was fun, Loop, but I’m not so sure we’re capable of getting to the true summit. Looked dicey by our standards, even before the fog rolled in and hid the last critical part from view. An awful lot of steep talus up there to contend with.
A Dingo can dream, can’t she, SPHP? Anyway, how about lunch? Did you check? Do we have any more Chef Boyardee spaghetti?
I did. We’re really low on supplies, Loopster. If you want anything more than Taste of the Wild, you’ll have to wait until we get to Fort Nelson.
Onward then, SPHP! I’ll be famished by the time we get that far.
E of the campground, it was all downhill as the Alaska Highway began leaving the mountains. Another lone caribou provoked a second shrill barking frenzy. One last photo by the Stone Mountain Provincial Park sign as Lupe left the park, and that was it for the rest of the day.
Once out of the Muskwa Ranges, a haze was in the air. Wildfire smoke again! Not terrible, but it got worse on the way to Fort Nelson, marring the views of the beautiful mountains receding in the rear view mirror.
9-12-23, 2:39 PM, 66ºF – After fueling up the RAV4 and buying supplies sufficient to satisfy both SPHP’s and an American Dingo’s hunger in Fort Nelson, it was back to the Alaska Highway again.
Now far from the mountains, the highway headed S featuring long, flat stretches frequently interrupted by big ridges and dips into the valleys between them. With distant views of the northern Rocky Mountains off to the W largely hidden by smoke, there was little for SPHP to do other than keep cruising while Lupe dozed on her pink blanket.
All was well, until SPHP saw a couple of men idly standing out in a field. Both were wearing vests with lime green stripes like might be seen on construction workers. When the RAV4 got very close, one began waving frantically, as if trying to trying to attract SPHP’s attention.
A little late with the waving bit. A moment later, the RAV4 was already past them. The Alaska Highway wasn’t crowded by any means, but as the only major road in the more than 200 miles between Fort Nelson and Fort St. John, it was far from deserted, too. Whatever these guys needed, someone else would be along within just a few minutes. Certainly didn’t look like they were in any kind of an emergency situation. They’d just been standing there aimlessly in the field.
Turned out they didn’t want anyone else’s help. Soon SPHP was slowing down, and pulling over to the side of the highway.
What’s going on, SPHP? Why are we stopping here?
Police, Loopster.
Flashing lights pulled in behind the RAV4 moments later.
Why didn’t you stop? Can’t you see that I’m dressed as a police officer?
Sorry, the police don’t dress like you are where I come from. What’s the problem, anyway?
Clocked you at 102 kmph in a 70 kmph zone.
70! The speed limit is 100!
No. You need to pay more attention. There’s a sign back there that says 70. I’ll need to see your license and registration.
Twenty minutes later, the RAV4 was heading S again, but not as fast as SPHP’s disposition.
How bad was it, SPHP?
$196 CAN for that, Loop! What a racket! Not a dang thing out here except some little no name dirt side road with no traffic that they’ve cleverly put a 70 kmph speed limit next to. That’s not even 45 mph, way out here in the wilderness on the Alaska Highway. Criminitly! We’re more than an hour out of Fort Nelson. Nothing’s going on out here!
Well, it’s just like the rock that cracked the windshield yesterday, SPHP. Nothing you can do about it now.
Mentioning the so recently cracked windshield really didn’t help matters much. SPHP came unglued.
70 kmph! Utterly ridiculous! They could fine 99.9% of the traffic that goes by here at that rate, Looper. Heck, they could fine 90% of the traffic at 110 kmph. How do we wind up with a ticket, anyway? The RAV4 is the slowest vehicle on the road. Everyone and his brother is constantly roaring by us. Canadians pay no attention at all to their speed limits. I’m forever pulling over to let others pass, so we don’t have them breathing down our necks.
SPHP fumed. SPHP raged. The American Dingo wisely tuned it all out, and went back to sleep.
An hour of fury was all even SPHP could take. Resilience is key! Gotta be able to roll with the punches. Might as well look on the bright side. $25 CAN reduction in the fine, if paid online within 30 days. That’s the new plan. Why not? Can’t fight it, anyway. The rest would just have to be considered Lupe’s donation to the lovely community of Fort Nelson. Other than that one wayward rock, and this fine, everything else about Canada had been totally awesome.
9-13-23, 7:26 AM, 55ºF – It had been years since Lupe had been on Hwy 29 between the Alaska Highway and Chetwyn. The view of the Peace River valley from a rest area half an hour in was a grand and familiar one despite a touch of wildfire smoke still in the air, yet wasn’t entirely the same as other times the American Dingo had been here.
Wow! It all looks so … parched, SPHP!
Maybe that’s normal this time of year, Loop? Or maybe it’s just because 2023 has been the year of the Arctic Apocalypse? Everything was always so lush and green and beautiful whenever we’ve been here before.
In any case, this was another travel day, a more serious one without any extended romps like the Racing River had been yesterday. For the most part, Lupe stared out the window at the fabulous scenery whizzing by, sometimes snoozing on her pink blanket for a while.
The Carolina Dog did get to enjoy a brief stop at Moberly Lake. After driving through Chetwyn, SPHP remembered to watch for the turn to Teapot Mountain along Hwy No. 97 on the way to Prince George, but unfortunately no longer recognized it.
A couple of stops for fuel and supplies in Prince George (following which, Lupe eagerly helped SPHP devour most of a delicious roasted chicken), and the long drive continued, now heading SE up the Fraser River valley on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16.
9-13-23, 6:04 PM – Lupe was already well beyond McBride, when a green field of surpassing beauty and tremendous interest caught her eye.
SPHP, please stop! We’re in cattle country!
Knowing how much Lupe loved seeing cows, SPHP had to comply.
It was good to have stopped. Those cows mooing softly while grazing in their green pasture marked the end of the peace and tranquility of the far N on this Dingo Vacation. A short while later, at the junction with Hwy No. 5 coming up from Kamloops, everything changed.
Transformed by the hectic throngs of civilization, Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 was suddenly chock full of semi-trucks, motorhomes, and vehicles of all types engaged in a frantic rush to “get there”, wherever “there” may have been. Having no choice, SPHP joined the relentless rat race while a steady stream of traffic zoomed impatiently past the RAV4. The abrupt return to civilization was a somewhat unnerving shock after having practically owned every road for weeks on end.
Even so, a magnificent sight soon appeared ahead, one Lupe hadn’t seen in many years due to overcast skies virtually every time she’d been by this stretch of highway since visiting Berg Lake long ago.
Stop here, too, SPHP! Mount Robson (12,989 ft.) is in the clear!
SPHP obeyed again; not once, but twice. First at the park entrance, and then a second time a bit farther on at the visitor centre.
9-13-23, 6:54 PM, Mount Robson Provincial Park – The visitor centre was closed when the American Dingo arrived, but that didn’t matter in the least. With the alpenglow at its peak on the mountain, Lupe went for a stroll behind the visitor centre to enjoy this rare and stunning moment.
9-13-23, 7:20 PM – Light was fading fast as Lupe headed into a familiar dim forest on the wide, smooth path that would be her only significant outing of the day. Traffic noise faded away completely during the few minutes it took to get down to the small, but powerful Overlander Falls. The roar of the falls, and the deep, swirling blue-green pool below it were mesmerizing.
9-14-23, 1:50 AM, Yellowhead Hwy No. 16, Overlander Falls pullout – Still some traffic, even at this hour. What peace and darkness existed, came to a sudden end when a semi-truck pulled in right behind the RAV4, then proceeded to idle with headlights on. Nevertheless, taking no action, SPHP soon fell back asleep.
9-14-23, 5:10 AM, 37ºF – Gah! That truck was still here, still idling with its lights on. SPHP had had enough. The night proved infinitely black once back on the highway. However, a hint of dawn was in the E by the time Lupe reached the Alberta border, entering Jasper National Park.
9-14-23, 7:17 AM, 32ºF – Not a soul was around when SPHP pulled into the little parking lot at Lupe’s favorite picnic ground along the Athabasca River. Roughly 5 miles S of mighty Athabasca Falls, this always used to be a quiet spot, blissfully ignored by the countless tourists streaming by along Icefields Parkway No. 37. However, that was back before there had been a picnic ground sign. A year or two ago, the park service had finally put one up.
Better enjoy our solitude while it lasts, Loopster! I bought some more Chef Boyardee spaghetti back in Prince George. Want me to heat some up?
Yes, please! I’ll grab a picnic table overlooking the river, SPHP.
A gorgeous, icy blue, the Athabasca River was much lower now than it had been back in early August when virtually the entire riverbed had been a swollen, silt-laden, gray torrent.
Get enough spaghetti, Loop?
Is there more, SPHP? I’m certainly willing to do whatever I can to help!
No more spaghetti, but I bought some Danishes, too.
Without hesitation, the Sweet-Tooth Puppy made a valiant contribution to the demise of the Danishes. Lupe licked her chops.
Now what, SPHP? Can we stay a while, and look for squirrels?
Sure can, Loopster. In fact, we’re going to hang out here while I catch up the trip journal. I’m way behind on it.
For the first time ever, the Carolina Dog got to spend nearly the entire day at her favorite picnic ground along the Athabasca River. However, her days of carefree barking at squirrels here without bothering anyone were over. People soon began arriving, and the once common solitude at this formerly overlooked spot never returned.
Sometimes in the RAV4, sometimes sitting on the red chairs overlooking the Athabasca River, SPHP worked on the trip journal. Lupe lay nearby, frequently getting up to wander about the forest a bit before returning. She helped SPHP polish off the rest of the roasted chicken and countless potato chips, but had no interest in SPHP’s Allsorts licorice.
As hours drifted by, the sun slowly sailed around to the W.
9-14-23, 6:41 PM, 75ºF, Lupe’s favorite picnic ground –
Enough writing! Let’s go down to the river, Loopster.
Are you all caught up, SPHP? Took long enough.
Yes, it did, and no, I’m still not caught up. Guess I need to be more concise.
You must be writing an epic tale, SPHP.
It often seems that way to me, Loop. You’re the first to notice, though, so maybe not. Hardly matters. C’mon, to the mighty Athabasca River!
Down on the riverbed, Lupe leapt up onto a boulder, a sharp peak of the stunning Canadian Rockies beyond rising dramatically into the blue.
What’s the name of that mountain, SPHP?
It’s either Mount Fryatt (11,017 ft.) or Mount Christie (10,236 ft.), Loop, but I’ve never really been sure which.
It was a perfect evening, near the end of a beautiful, relaxing day.
Hate to leave, but we’ve got to get going, Loop. Hope you had fun here.
Do we have to? Why leave now, so late in the day, SPHP?
We need to be in Banff early on the 16th, but that leaves us with another whole day to enjoy the Canadian Rockies before then, Looper. We’re all rested up, so we’re not going to waste it. We’re leaving to get into better position for your next big adventure tomorrow.
I like the sound of that, SPHP. If we must, we must!
9-14-23, 7:50 PM – The last rays of sunlight were about to vanish from Mount Athabasca (11,414 ft.) and Mount Andromeda (11,286 ft.) by the time Lupe reached the nearly vacant humongous parking lot at the Jasper Columbia Icefields Discovery Centre.
Still such an amazing sight, but sadder every year, too, as the snow and ice recede. Nothing to be done about that, though. After enjoying the view, the drive S continued into Banff National Park. It was already quite dark when Lupe spotted a lynx on the prowl. Upon arriving at Bow Lake, a million stars were above.
Perhaps even more impressive, miracle of miracles, the short side road to the Bow Lake picnic ground, which had always been wretched due to numerous giant potholes, had been repaired! (End 10:47 PM, 42ºF)
Links:
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
Mount Saint George, Stone Mountain Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada (8-5-17)
Summit Peak & Mount Saint Paul, Stone Mountain Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada (8-4-17)
The Berg Lake Trail, Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada (7-30-13)
Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-31-13)
Bow Lake and the Trail to Bow Glacier Falls, Banff National Park, Canada (7-25-13)
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