Days 8 & 9 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
8-6-22, morning, Babine Mountains, 0.5 km W of Summit Pass –
How’s your toe, SPHP? Can you walk?
All bruised and purple, Loop, but it must not be broken. Yeah, I can walk.
Yesterday evening during the steep descent of Mount Hyland’s S ridge, a rock had slid, causing SPHP to bash a boot hard straight into a boulder. A now vivid purple toe was ugly as sin, but after a night sleeping like the dead, didn’t hurt as much as it had on the way back to the tiny house. Summoning what energy SPHP could muster, preparations for the trip back down the McCabe Trail to Driftwood Canyon began.
8-6-22, 11:45 AM, 62ºF, end of Driftwood Road – With the exception of the pesky mosquitoes which were out in force, the morning’s scenic trek down the McCabe Trail had been fun. Finally back at the trailhead, the Carolina Dog was anxious to leap up onto her pink blanket in the RAV4 the instant SPHP opened the door. Lupe stayed there relaxing, eating, or snoozing the rest of the day, refusing to leave the RAV4 even for a short sniff until the Big Dipper glittered overhead.
8-7-22, 7:14 AM, 53ºF, Driftwood Canyon –
Rested up yet, Looper? Ready for action?
Oh, I don’t know, SPHP. What did you have in mind?
Another peakbagging failure, Loopster.
Why, SPHP? Do we intend to specialize in failures this Dingo Vacation?
No, but the true summit of this next mountain is a technical climb, Loop, beyond anything we’re capable of. However, from what I understand, we ought to be able to get to the S summit, which isn’t an awful lot lower than the true one.
Terrific! Shades of Mount Hyland! Another peak with multiple summits, only one of the lower ones of which we can actually manage to get to. What’s so special about this mountain that makes you so keen on such an undertaking, SPHP?
I like it’s name, Loop, plus it’s an incredible peak with a glacier tucked in a giant cirque we can gaze down on from more than 1,000 feet above.
That does sound cool, SPHP! Care to share the name of this magnificent mountain with me?
I’ll give you a couple of clues, Loopster. You’ve seen this peak on multiple occasions before, including as recently as 2 days ago. Furthermore, in 2019 we intended to climb it, but woke to fog and mist.
Those are most excellent clues, SPHP! Count me in! You must be referring to Hudson Bay Mountain (8,494 ft.).
Unfortunately, despite a clear weather forecast obtained a few days ago, the morning sky was overcast. The gray murk even spit a little rain on the drive from Driftwood Canyon into Smithers. A new forecast was in order. Once obtained, it held out some hope. Cloudy all morning, but clearing this afternoon.
Guess there’s no big rush to get there, Loop. We can cool our jets for a bit here in Smithers. Would you like to give Hudson Bay Mountain a shot a little later on?
Absolutely, SPHP! And another snooze before then won’t hurt a thing.
8-7-22, 11:15 AM, 59ºF, Crater Lake trailhead – Local literature referred to the access road as Ski Hill Road, but the street sign leaving the S end of Smithers actually said Dahlie Road. Initially paved, it quickly turned into gravel Hudson Bay Mountain Road. In any case, access was a long, windy affair that ultimately wound steeply up the mountain’s S slopes to a cluster of cabins, vacation homes, and a ski T-bar at the very end.
Although still cloudy, apparently the weather hadn’t dampened anyone else’s spirits. The trailhead was nearly full when SPHP parked the RAV4, and the Carolina Dog leapt out.
Heading over to the building at the end of the trailhead where the T-bar started, lots of people were milling around. Beyond the building, a green telephone pole bore the sign SPHP was looking for.
Here we go, Looper! The Crater Lake trail. Think it’s about 3 km to Crater Lake from here.
Crater Lake? You didn’t mention a lake before, SPHP, only a glacier.
Oh, forgive me. Yes, there’s a lake here, too, Loop! The Crater Lake trail is merely the first part of the journey to Hudson Bay Mountain’s S summit. Supposed to be quite easy, just a steady uphill march.
Uphill it was, too! The Crater Lake trail started out as a steep dirt road going N from the sign past several private cabins tucked back in among the trees. Beyond the cabins, the road became rocky and rough, soon leading to a junction where the Carolina Dog turned NW on a road that wasn’t quite as steep.
This road ran through a very healthy-looking evergreen forest, but the trees rapidly began to thin out as Lupe gained elevation. Soon the road turned into little more than a good single track trail. Lovely views were appearing back to the SE. Farther up the trail, not much could be seen yet, other than that it was still cloudy.
Before long, Lupe reached the last stands of stunted evergreens. Beyond them was a region known locally as the “prairie”, a vast, lush meadow of grass and wildflowers. Ahead, the trail continued NW across the prairie directly toward long snowbanks along the upper rim of a cirque where Crater Lake remained hidden from view. Above the snow, Hudson Bay Mountain was cloaked in fog.
The Crater Lake trail is popular. Lupe met quite a few groups of people and dogs already on their way back down from the lake, and more were on their way higher, both ahead of and behind her. A cool breeze out of the W kept the bugs away during the steady, easy to moderately-paced climb through the scenic prairie.
The American Dingo enjoyed sweeping views toward all points S on a trek that proved longer than it first appeared.
Progress was good. As Lupe gained elevation on the way to the cirque, the clouds were lifting as well, revealing more and more of the region above Crater Lake. All rock with scattered snowfields, Hudson Bay Mountain didn’t otherwise look like rugged territory at all, just a very big hill. Getting to the S summit was going to be a breeze!
At the upper end of the prairie, Lupe reached a ridge featuring minor rock formations overlooking a valley 75 feet lower. Beyond this valley, blue-gray Crater Lake nestled in the cirque at the base of cliffs and steep slopes surrounding the entire N half of the lake. Crater Lake was almost perfectly round, with a waterfall cascading down an extraordinarily steep, snowy ravine to the middle of the N shore.
Let’s go see Crater Lake, SPHP!
That’s the plan, Looper! We’ll take a break there before continuing on.
On the way down into the valley, Lupe roamed W off-trail a little way to get a look from a slightly different angle. Crater Lake and the big cirque it was in were very beautiful. Small wonder it was such a popular destination!
While in the valley, the sun came out, shining brightly from a still mostly cloudy sky. Miller Creek, the exit stream flowing from the SE corner of Crater Lake, vanished mysteriously beneath a big snowbank down here. Directly ahead was a rocky, 20 foot high bank leading to Crater Lake. Crossing the stream, Loop was up the bank in no time.
8-7-22, 12:30 PM – 20 people, and 5 or 6 dogs, were at Crater Lake when Lupe arrived. The water was exceptionally clear, cold, and quickly got deep beyond the shore. The American Dingo had a drink, but did not venture in. A beach of small rocks was over by the SE shore, but SPHP instead chose a vantage point on a hill overlooking the middle of the S shore as a break spot.
Beef jerky, Loop?
No need to ask twice! The Carolina Dog practically inhaled it, resorting to Taste of the Wild only after SPHP cut off the jerky supply.
A very pleasant time was spent enjoying the superb view of Crater Lake and the waterfall plunging into it on the opposite shore, but after such a late start Lupe couldn’t stay here too long, if she hoped to ever get to the S summit of Hudson Bay Mountain.
People and dogs came and went. Crater Lake was the final destination for the vast majority, but a few ventured up the long slope E of the lake.
Hate to eat and run, but that’s what we need to be doing too, Loop.
Bidding lovely Crater Lake a fond farewell, the American Dingo was on her way. A use trail had been seen veering off to the NE from the ridge where Crater Lake had first come into view, so Lupe retraced her route back to it.
The use trail was moderate to fairly steep. Easy to follow, it ran N up the long grassy slope overlooking the E side of Crater Lake, which was still visible below. Before long, Lupe reached the end of the grassy region. From here, the trail zig-zagged up into the rocky world of Hudson Bay Mountain’s enormous SE ridge.
Once up into the rock, the top of the giant ridge never looked an awful lot higher, but looks were deceiving. No matter how high Lupe climbed, the top of the ridge remained a few hundred feet above. The use trail soon turned NW, eventually nearly vanishing in a sea of rock. Cairns with pink ribbons helped mark the route.
It would have been possible to ascend to the SE ridge almost anywhere. The rocks weren’t all that big, a mix of large scree and small boulders. Where undisturbed, the rocks were covered with dark lichens, but were tan, gray, or brown along the path. In fact, there seemed to be multiple paths. The few people coming down passed either well above, or below, Lupe’s route.
Climbing at a moderate pace nearly all the time, Loop also encountered occasional flat sections, plus a few short, gritty, steep spots, too. She led the way, displaying great energy and enthusiasm.
Lupe was already a long way from Crater Lake when a trail going more directly up to Hudson Bay Mountain’s SE ridge appeared. This was a steeper route, but finally got the Carolina Dog clear up to the ridgeline.
Unobstructed views to the S had become increasingly spectacular ever since reaching the prairie, but this was different. Loop now stood on the brink of a precipice overlooking a long U-shaped valley. Peering over the edge, Smithers was in sight way down at the lower ESE end. A dark gray and rust brown peak flecked with snow culminated the upper end.
Huh. What happened to the glacier, Loopster? I don’t see it.
Maybe it melted, SPHP?
Since the day before yesterday? We saw it from Mount Hyland, Loop.
Oh, that’s right! This must be the wrong valley then, SPHP.
SPHP checked the topo map.
You’re right, Looper. We’re looking at the Simpson Creek canyon. The glacier is beyond the next ridge to the N. Should be able to see it once we get up to that peak at the upper end of this canyon.
Is that peak the S summit, SPHP?
Don’t think so, Loop. It’s actually the lower end of an upper SE ridge. Once we get to it, the S summit should only be another 0.5 km, if that.
Climbing near the precipice along the rim of the Simpson Creek canyon, Lupe followed various use trails NW. Like the rest of the mountain had been, these routes were rocky, but not difficult. Several steepish rises were followed by much flatter sections.
The first sign of trouble came from the top of the first rise. A bump on the back side of the “peak” at the upper end of the canyon that hadn’t been visible earlier when the mountain was shrouded in clouds, was now seen to be much more than a mere wart. In fact, it was a huge, steep-sided fin jutting up substantially higher well beyond the “peak”.
Sheesh! I don’t like the looks of that fin, Loop.
Do you think it’s Hudson Bay Mountain’s S summit, SPHP?
Precisely what I’m afraid of, Looper.
The last large flat region led to a slight downslope. At the bottom stood a big cairn topped by a pink ribbon. This cairn had been extended into a 15 foot long wall of rock 4 feet high. Beyond this edifice lay the slope comprising the final steep ascent to the “peak” at the upper end of the Simpson Creek canyon, and the troubling dark fin beyond.
A chill, 20 mph breeze blew out of the W as Lupe began her ascent from the big cairn. Occasionally, there were stronger gusts or moments of calm. Still displaying amazing energy, the American Dingo continued to lead the way among dark rocks on a path of tan and gold near the edge of the Simpson Creek canyon.
Never hesitating, Looper climbed and climbed. SPHP tried to judge how much higher she had to go by checking progress versus the 2,340 meter ridge across the canyon. Seemed to take a long time to pull even with it. 200 meters yet to go!
At last, a small dome of snow appeared. This was it, the top of the peak at the head of the Simpson Creek canyon!
No, not really. As the topo map had shown, this wasn’t actually the top of anything, merely the lower end of an upper, much shorter, SE ridge. And the snow dome turned out to be only half of a dome. Beyond it was an incredible sight! Towering above others, 3 jagged summits soared skyward at the head of a spectacular chasm sheltering the Hudson Bay Glacier more than 1,000 feet below.
The view was stunning, almost terrifying! Beyond the half snow dome, along a much narrower, but still easily passable ridge, several minor high points led NW toward the first tower, the same dark fin Lupe had seen before, now clearly identifiable as the S summit of Hudson Bay Mountain.
Circling S of the half snow dome to avoid the fearsome precipice, Looper continued up the gently sloping ridge a short distance to the first minor high point. Pausing here, SPHP suddenly saw that she was standing next to a white plastic bottle with a black top.
Let’s take a break, Loop! The registry must be in that bottle. Evidently this must be about as far as most people go.
Inside the bottle were 2 booklets with lemon yellow covers, Glacier View Books 1 & 2, and several pencils. Book 1 was nearly full of entries. Book 2 had only a few on the first page.
8-7-22, 3:50 PM, Hudson Bay Mountain (8,494 ft.), at the registry high point on the upper SE ridge leading to the S summit –
Hmm! Looks like you’re the only one to make it this far today, Looper. Last entry was yesterday.
So the people we saw that were going down never got this far, SPHP?
Evidently not, Loop. Either that, or they just didn’t bother to sign in.
Well, sign me in, SPHP. Then let’s have a chocolate coconut bar!
Gads! I forgot to bring one, Loop. How about more beef jerky, instead?
Ordinarily I accept no substitutes, SPHP, but I’ll make an exception in this case.
SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, congratulating the American Dingo on getting this close to the S summit, then shared the enthusiastically received beef jerky with her. This was followed up with the last of the Taste of the Wild for Loop; peanuts and vanilla pudding for SPHP. After entering Lupe’s name in one of the Glacier View registries, SPHP placed both books back into the white bottle before restoring it to its place.
For some reason, this upper SE ridge wasn’t as windy as during the tan and gold climb to the half snow dome. The breeze was only 10 mph out of the W, although during stronger gusts it felt even cooler than before. Fewer clouds were in the sky now, but Hudson Bay Mountain drew those that were like a magnet. Lupe was often in shadow, brief moments of sunshine vanishing as quickly and suddenly as they had appeared.
Far more clouds lingered among mountains visible toward almost every horizon. The Babines, where Lupe had spent the last several days, were way off to the NE, and sunnier than the rest. A much higher range with a multitude of impressive peaks sporting big glaciers was off to the S and W. These lofty unfamiliar peaks were all far away among thick clouds. Nearby Aldrich Lake and Dennis Lake down in the lowlands were about all that SPHP was able to identify.
Shall we continue on, SPHP? See if we can get to the S summit?
Not at all optimistic about that at this point, Loop, but sure, let’s see how far we can go.
The next minor high point wasn’t much farther. Lupe scrambled up to a ridge providing even more spectacular views of the Hudson Bay Glacier and Hudson Bay Mountain’s fantastically rugged summit region.
Only 2 more high points were beyond this one, the second being the scary dark fin of Hudson Bay Mountain’s S summit looming not too far ahead. Getting to the next to the last high point involved a descent of maybe 25 or 30 feet to a small saddle next to a snowbank. That didn’t look hard, but from there, Lupe would have to climb 80 to 100 feet up a slope so steep that it looked pretty sketchy to SPHP.
Think we’re done, Loop. If this next high point actually was the S summit, we’d drop down to the saddle to take a closer look, but even if we manage to get up there, we’d still have to face that frightful fin.
We’re off to a such grand start on this Dingo Vacation, aren’t we, SPHP? First two mountains we try to climb are fails. This time, we can’t even get to the S summit, never mind the true one.
Eh, no worries, Looper! Thought we’d easily get to the S summit from what I’d read online, but it really doesn’t make any difference. Knew all along that Hudson Bay Mountain’s true summit was beyond anything we can do, so this fail was pre-ordained from the start. Actually amazing that we got this far. Hudson Bay Mountain has over 5,000 feet of prominence!
Have to admit, we did get pretty high, SPHP. What an imposing summit, too! Genuine mountaineering territory from here on.
Scares me just looking at it, Loop! The whole experience came complete with beautiful Crater Lake and this awesome glacier, too! Look at where we are. What an incredible mountain! So glad we came, even if we can’t get to the top.
While the Carolina Dog enjoyed tremendous sweeping views far off into the distance from the upper SE ridge, Hudson Bay Mountain (8,494 ft.) itself, with it’s fearsome multi-crag summit and spectacular glacier so far below, was the real scenic highlight. For over an hour, Lupe and SPHP remained high on the SE ridge in the cool W breeze, happy to be here.
8-7-22, 5:00 PM, Hudson Bay Mountain (8,494 ft.) – Lupe stood alone on the 2nd minor high point she’d reached on the upper SE ridge, her point of farthest advance, the unattainable dark fin of the S summit still more than 200 feet higher looming beyond her. Sniffing the breeze, surveying the glory all about her, she waited for SPHP to give the signal that the sad, inevitable moment of departure had arrived.
Stay up there, Loopster! I’ll take another one from a little farther down!
Wow! Doesn’t get much better than this! OK, thanks Loop, it’s time!
Lupe came running, but hung around with SPHP at the registry high point enjoying the grandeur of Hudson Bay Mountain for another 10 minutes before her descent began in earnest.
The wind was again 20 mph out of the W as the American Dingo headed down the tan and gold path below the half snow dome. The descent was super scenic, fast, and easy, the wind eventually diminishing as Lupe lost elevation. The “prairie” and the cluster of vacation homes and cabins that Loop had started out from more than 3,000 feet below were in view practically the entire way.
Lupe eventually met 2 men coming up the mountain. Although the sun was getting low, they were young, strong, and moving fast.
Have a feeling you won’t be the only one signed in on the registry today, Looper!
By the time Lupe got back to the prairie, the young men had already passed slow-poke SPHP on their way down.
The American Dingo did not return to Crater Lake, instead joining the parade of people and dogs on their way back to the trailhead. Lupe met Mika, a beautiful young dog that wasn’t yet as big as she was. A couple of sniffs, and they hit it off! So this wonderful, happy day on fabulous Hudson Bay Mountain ended with a wild game of Dingo tag among the prairie wildflowers swaying in the W breeze. (8-7-22, 8:03 PM, 59ºF)
Links:
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
Hudson Bay Mountain & Crater Lake Trail Map
Bulkley Valley Backpackers Society Website
Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.
