Atlin Lake – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Birch Mountain on Teresa Island, Skagway Ranges, British Columbia, Canada – Part 2: Base Camp to the Summit! (8-13-22)

Days 15 & 16 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-13-22, after midnight, 5,300 foot base camp on Teresa Island – The light of a waning, still nearly full moon was shining on the back side of the tiny house. Looking out front, the sky was light to the N as well, the sun stealthily slinking around to the E not too far below the horizon. A few distant red lights were blinking a bit N of where Atlin had to be, but the little town itself wasn’t in sight.

Only the brightest stars were visible in the moonlit sky. Polaris and the Big Dipper stood out. Comfortably mild, the air was dead calm. The tiny house didn’t flap at all. Inside, Lupe was zonked.

Not SPHP! Stirred by this incredible scene, the awesome feeling of being so high and alone on Teresa Island, and the American Dingo’s fabulous prospects for actually getting to the summit of Birch Mountain (6,765 feet) today, SPHP couldn’t get back to sleep.

That was a problem. With cloudiness in the forecast, SPHP resolved to get up as soon as the sun did. Better minimize any chance Lupe would arrive at the summit too late, only to find the certain to be spectacular views lost in fog. Yet laying there thinking for hours, this worry seemed overblown. So far, not a cloud was to be seen in the beautiful night sky.

8-13-22, 7:53 AM, 5,300 foot base camp on Teresa Island – Suddenly, the sun was well above the horizon! A bit of a breeze stirred the air, and clouds were now visible in the distance, mostly to the S and E.

Loop, wake up!

Huh? What’s wrong, SPHP?

I overslept! We’ve got to get going! Here, have some Taste of the Wild while I get the pack ready.

A gorgeous morning! Conditions weren’t threatening at all, but SPHP hurried, anyway, unhappy at having slept in. Just dumb!

Emerging from the tiny house, about ready to take off, there was that stunning view of Atlin Lake to the N, with Mount Minto (6,913 ft.) and Mount Hitchcock (5,886 ft.) standing as sentinels near the far end, and Atlin Mountain (6,722 ft.) much closer to the NW.

**Atlin Mountain** (L). **Mount Minto** (Center) and **Mount Hitchcock** (R of Center) in the distance. Photo looks N.

Oh, SPHP! It isn’t a dream, we’re really here, way up on Teresa Island! This is going to be one of our most wonderful days ever!

Believe you’re right, Loopster! Let’s make sure of it. Onward! Puppy ho!

Turning S, Lupe scrambled up the 6 foot high escarpment sheltering the tiny house to the gently sloping plain covered with low bushes above. Birch Mountain’s true summit 2.2 miles SSW wasn’t in sight yet. To get there, the Carolina Dog was going to have to circle around the S end of the deep valley to the W.

Setting off for Birch Mountain’s true summit! Photo looks SSW.

Wildflowers near base camp. Photo looks SSW.

Keep going S, SPHP?

Yup. We’ve got to go over HP6129, that big hill we saw yesterday, Loop.

HP6129 was a mile away, maybe more, and wasn’t in sight yet, either. This jaunt was uphill all the way, of course, but at an easy to moderate pace. Roaming the vast, gentle slope, Lupe was soon past the greenest regions of low bushes and wildflowers, and into rockier terrain.

Heading up the rocky slope. Photo looks SSW.

Progress was excellent on this open ground. Both HP6129 and the top of Birch Mountain soon came into view. SPHP was surprised to see 2 tall, dark pylons up on HP6129.

**HP6129** (L), **Birch Mountain summit** (R). Photo looks SSW.

Keep going S, Loop, but angle off toward the W a bit, too.

You mean over to the edge of the big valley, SPHP?

Yup! Let’s get a look at Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.) from there.

Reaching the edge of the canyon, Birch Mountain was fully on display.

**Birch Mountain** (Center). **HP6621** (L). Photo looks SW.

Wow! Isn’t Birch Mountain beautiful, SPHP? An easy climb, too!

Absolutely stunning, Loop! Never thought we’d see this! Shouldn’t have any trouble getting over there, either. We did the hard part yesterday.

Clouds were now spreading across the sky, but they were thin and high. Everything was fine. The only worrisome sign was a little puff of fog hanging over HP6621 less than a km SE of Birch Mountain’s summit.

We better keep going, Loop!

The last part of the trek up to HP6129 was steeper and rockier. Not at all difficult, though. Lupe spotted a ptarmigan among the rocks. Reaching HP6129, the American Dingo found herself on a flat, open plain of sparse vegetation and modest-sized rocks.

The dark green pylons were just off to the E now, but with a line of little puffs of gray forming between HP6621 and Birch Mountain’s summit, SPHP thought it unwise to spend any time checking them out. Ignoring the pylons, Lupe continued S across the plateau.

Near the pylons on **HP6129**. Photo looks ESE.

Crossing the **HP6129 plateau**. **HP6621** (Center), **Birch Mountain summit** (R). Photo looks SW.

From the S edge of the HP6129 plateau, Lupe began a gradual descent SSW toward the saddle leading to HP6621. A long line of of rocky hills sporting snowfields was now in sight extending SE from HP6621.

Heading for **HP6621** (R of Center). Photo looks SSW.

The line of **rocky hills SE of HP6621**. Photo looks SE.

Wow, look at how much territory there is to explore, SPHP!

We’ve seen it from afar many times, Loopster. Birch Mountain is huge, and Teresa Island is even larger. No telling how many days we could spend exploring the whole thing, if we had a way to resupply.

That would be a blast, SPHP!

Sure would, Looper! Let’s concentrate on our objective, though. These clouds are starting to worry me.

The string of clouds between HP6621 and Birch Mountain’s summit was becoming more persistent. Now and then, it all sailed off to the NE, and both peaks were in sunshine. Yet the clouds kept reforming, as though the mountain itself was remanufacturing them.

Speed might be important! Happily, this was super easy terrain all the way down to the low point of the saddle leading to HP6621. Traveling along the edge of the enormous canyon NE of Birch Mountain’s summit, Lupe paused occasionally to take in the incredible views.

Along the edge of the canyon at the saddle leading to **HP6621** (L). **Birch Mountain summit** (R). Photo looks SW.

Clouds sweeping over **HP6621**. **Birch Mountain summit** (R). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

The canyon view. **Atlin Mountain** (L). **Torres Channel of Atlin Lake** (Center) with **Mount Minto** beyond. **Mount Hitchcock** (R) in the distance. **W edge of HP6129** (far R). Photo looks N.

The top of HP6621 was at least temporarily in sight, as Lupe started for it. The ground was rockier now, and became increasingly so. Except for the black lichens of the far N, vegetation vanished completely during the scramble up to HP6621‘s N ridge.

Heading for **HP6621** (R). Photo looks SW.

Scrambling up to **HP6621‘s N ridge**. Photo looks WSW.

Once up on the ridgeline, unexpected patches of dirt and tundra formed a lane leading higher. As Lupe approached the top of HP6621, the sky cleared to a brilliant blue.

On **HP6621‘s N ridge**. Photo looks SSW.

8-13-22, 9:55 AM – Unprotected up here from a chilly 20 mph SW wind, moments later, Lupe reached HP6621 in a dense fog. Couldn’t see a darn thing except the ground at her paws! Expecting it to clear again almost instantly, a 5 minute wait produced no change. SPHP was dismayed!

Oh, my gosh, Lupe! We’re 2 minutes too late? Criminy! We should have been here hours ago. How could I have slept in like that, knowing it was supposed to cloud up today?

So, why did you sleep in, SPHP? The plan was to get up at first light!

I was so excited about Birch Mountain, I was awake half the night, Loop. Then like an idiot, I pass out at the end! Next thing I know, it’s 8:00 AM, and you’re still dead to the world!

I was just getting my beauty rest, SPHP! Besides, it was a long way up to base camp yesterday. I was tired. Weren’t you supposed to wake me up? Anyway, you’re overly excited. It was sunny less than 10 minutes ago, let’s wait a little longer. It’ll clear off again.

Oh, no we don’t! We’re not waiting here! Conditions have deteriorated all morning. Might easily keep getting worse. I sure hope not! If we do get a break, we want to be on top of Birch Mountain when it happens. Onward! Puppy, ho!

Visibility had already improved to a few hundred feet as Lupe started down HP6621‘s W ridge. Vegetation faded and rocks grew in size. Loop was soon scrambling among talus. The ridge narrowed. Progress was much slower here, but there wasn’t any great rush in these conditions.

On **HP6621**, about to head down the W ridge (Center). Photo looks W.

As Lupe approached the big curve where the ridge swept around to the N toward Birch Mountain’s hidden summit, a huge snowfield came into view nestled on the sheltered NE side of the ridge. A little turquoise blue tarn was visible at its base.

The snow came right up close to the top of the ridge, curving right along with it, but didn’t extend onto or over the ridge at any point. The steep, slippery edge was incredibly dangerous, but even though the ridge got pretty skinny, it remained wide enough to avoid having to venture out onto the snow at all.

Following **HP6621‘s W ridge** as the snowfield comes into view. Photo looks NW.

Fog streamed by as Lupe continued her scramble among the talus. She hadn’t lost much elevation, when suddenly glimpses of Atlin Lake and the S end of Teresa Island began appearing.

A hint of what’s out there. Photo looks SSW.

For 15 minutes, the views came and went, but showed improvement each time. The whole S end of Teresa Island appeared, surrounded by Atlin Lake. Many much smaller islands could be seen, and eventually the Llewellyn Glacier was in sight, too, beyond the S end of the lake.

**S end of Atlin Lake** and the **Llewellyn Glacier** (Center). Photo looks SSW.

**Atlin Lake** and the **Llewellyn Glacier** (R of Center). Photo looks SSW with help from the telephoto lens.

Zoomed in on the **Llewellyn Glacier**. Photo looks SSW.

A moment of exquisite beauty and clarity arrived, then vanished like a dream, as fog reformed and swept in again.

**S end of Teresa Island**, **Atlin Lake**, and the **Llewellyn Glacier**. Photo looks SW.

The ridge narrowed. Lupe faced some minor ups and downs. The low point came at a notch where the rocks were quite large, but still easily maneuvered among with a bit of caution. Regaining a little elevation, tundra reappeared as the ridge turned N and broadened out again.

Conditions were far from pleasant in the cold fog and wind sweeping over the ridge, but the American Dingo pressed on. Somewhere not too far ahead now, Birch Mountain’s summit was hidden in the clouds.

Approaching the low point before the ridge curves N. Photo looks W.

Regaining elevation beyond the low point notch. Photo looks WNW.

In fog and wind where the ridge broadens out after turning N. Photo looks N.

The wind increased as Lupe started up the dark, rocky slope leading to the summit. Staying a little below the ridgeline along the protected E side, conditions were better. Where possible, Lupe followed a lane of dirt and tundra.

Climbing toward the true summit. Photo looks N.

8-13-22, 11:13 AM, 48ºF, Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.) – Fog streaming by on a 25 mph wind out of the SW, Lupe stood on a low wall of rock.

At the **true summit of Birch Mountain**! Photo looks NNW.

Congratulations, Loopster! This is it, the true summit of Birch Mountain! May I shake your paw?

Yes, but be quick about it, SPHP, then let’s get out of this gale!

SPHP shook the graciously offered paw, a moment filled with both joy and remorse. Lupe was really here! She’d made it to Teresa Island, and all the way to Birch Mountain’s summit. However, socked-in with fog, the summit hadn’t been visible from a distance for over an hour. It had vanished even before the American Dingo reached HP6621. Tragic, and such a stupid waste, not to have arrived a couple of hours earlier!

Magnificent job, Loopster! Can I interest you in a hard-earned chocolate coconut bar?

Thought you’d never ask, SPHP! Can I get on your lap, though? There’s nothing but rocks to lay down on up here.

Sitting below the wall of rock, which greatly reduced exposure to the wind, SPHP faced E. Curling up on SPHP’s lap, Lupe made short work of her share of the chocolate coconut bar, plus some Taste of the Wild. The whole world was a chilly, soft gray as an endless stream of fog flew by. Whether or not the sky would clear, revealing the splendid views Lupe had come all this way to see, was a complete unknown.

What now, SPHP? Just sit here and wait?

All we can do, Looper. Sit here and hope for the best! Fortunately, we’ve got all day, provided conditions don’t get too extreme.

Maybe Lupe would get lucky?

For 20 minutes, nothing changed. SPHP’s legs were starting to go numb under the Carolina Dog’s weight. Gloomy thoughts of how foolish it had been not to have gotten here much earlier were as thick as the fog.

Stroking Lupe’s soft ears, suddenly SPHP’s brooding was interrupted by a dream-like vision. Glancing back to the SW through wisps of fog, a line of mountains was visible beyond the Torres Channel! The S end of Atlin Lake was in sight, too.

**S end of Atlin Lake** (L), **Torres Channel** (R). Photo looks SSW.

The fog reformed within seconds and the dream vanished, but the brief break was greatly encouraging. More breaks began appearing every few minutes. The sun was gradually gaining strength, slightly warming the air, lifting the clouds, and reducing fog formation.

For a while it was frustrating. Views often disappeared within seconds. Before Lupe could even get into position for a photo, the opportunity was lost. A major relapse occurred. Everything vanished completely, and did not reappear for a while.

For a long time, Lupe and SPHP alternated between sitting together in the cool breeze, or leaping up to admire fleeting glimpses of grandeur. Eventually, Birch Mountain no longer produced a steady stream of fog. Tremendous views were revealed in all directions, including some of the most beautiful Lupe had ever seen.

Mount Minto (6,913 ft.), and Mount Hitchcock (5,886 ft.) were far to the N on opposite sides of Atlin Lake. Atlin Mountain (6,722 ft.) was much closer. The town of Atlin was visible NNE.

**Atlin Mountain** (far L). **Mount Minto** (L) and **Mount Hitchcock** (L of Center) in the distance. **Town of Atlin** (R). Photo looks NNE.

Monarch Mountain (4,728 ft.) looked small to the NE. HP6129 with its two pylons, and much of the territory Lupe had journeyed through to get here, were in sight in the same direction. Sentinel Mountain (6,316 ft.) and West Sentinel Mountain (6,316 ft.) were almost directly E.

**Monarch Mountain** (L of Center) beyond **Atlin Lake**, **HP6129** (R of Center) across the canyon. Photo looks NE.

**Sentinel Mountain** and **West Sentinel Mountain** (R) beyond **Atlin Lake**. **Saddle** (Center) between **HP6129** and **HP6619** in the foreground. Photo looks E.

Often in the shadow of the last lingering cloud formations, HP6619 was SE. Lupe could see its W ridge, the curve N toward Birch Mountain’s summit, and the huge snowfield nestled just below the rim.

The Torres Channel was to the W, separating Teresa Island from a sea of peaks beyond. Mountains extended in all directions until they blended in, becoming indistinguishable from the clouds sailing over them.

**Atlin Mountain** (far R), **Torres Channel** (L). Photo looks NW.

**Torres Channel**. **The Cathedral** (L). Photo looks SW.

The most splendid scenes of all, though, were toward the S and SSW where the S end of Atlin Lake and Teresa Island were in sight. The lake was an intricate pattern of bays, coves, points, islands, channels, and a big expanse of open water. A line of the highest, snowiest mountains formed a wall beyond it, unbroken except by the distant Llewellyn Glacier glistening among them.

**Atlin Lake** (L), **S end of Teresa Island** (Center), **Torres Channel** (R). Photo looks SSW.

Zoomed in on **The Narrows** at the **S end of Teresa Island**. Photo looks SSW.

**S end of Atlin Lake**. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

Near the S end of the Torres Channel, the mighty Cathedral (6,965 ft.) stood guard over the region of the First and Second Narrows connecting Torres Bay to the rest of Atlin Lake.

**The Cathedral** (Center) looming over the **Torres Channel**. Photo looks SSW with help from the telephoto lens.

Many times, Lupe and SPHP roamed back and forth along the summit ridge. Knowing that the American Dingo would never be here again, it was hard to tear away from the splendors Birch Mountain had to offer.

A little N of the **true summit** (L). Photo looks SSW.

8-13-22, 2:25 PM – Luck of the Dingo! Birch Mountain was now a huge, complete success! More than 3 hours after arriving, Lupe stood once again in the cool SW wind on the very highest rocks for the last time.

**True summit of Birch Mountain**. Photo looks SSW.

Birch Mountain has been magnificent, SPHP! One of our best adventures ever!

Can’t begin to tell you what a pleasure it’s been to make this journey with you, Loopster! I’m overjoyed it’s turned out the way it did.

Well, there was plenty more adventure to come! Lupe still had to find her way back to Sandy Beach for the water taxi ride back across Atlin Lake, but that wasn’t until tomorrow. Tonight, she’d still be Empress of Teresa Island back at base camp. While SPHP started down, the Carolina Dog waited for the signal to begin her descent, too.

**Final moments atop Birch Mountain**. Photo looks NW.

With the sky so clear now, it was possible to see parts of the journey that hadn’t been visible during the ascent. It all seemed far less daunting and mysterious.

Heading back down the **S ridge**. **HP6619** (far L). Photo looks SSE.

Looking back at **Birch Mountain’s summit**. Photo looks N.

Along the snowfield **W of HP6619**. Photo looks NNW.

**Birch Mountain** from **HP6619**. Photo looks NW.

Once over HP6619 again, and down off the rockiest part, the rest of the trek back to base camp was absolute cake. Grandeur all around, and so much fun! A joyful, but wistful time.

**Birch Mountain** (L), **Atlin Mountain** (R of Center) from the edge of the canyon. Photo looks NW.

**Sentinel Mountain** and **West Sentinel Mountain** (R of Center) beyond **Atlin Lake**. Photo looks E.

8-13-22, 5:18 PM, 5,300 foot base camp on Teresa Island – Lupe and SPHP arrived tired and happy back at the tiny house waiting in the sheltered nook. The American Dingo still had her grand view to the N, but was anxious to get inside, enjoy a meal and a good snooze. SPHP joined her.

8-13-22, 9:47 PM, 5,300 foot base camp on Teresa Island –

Looper, you awake?

I am now! What is it, SPHP?

Just woke up. You’ve got to see this! Birch Mountain is putting on quite a display! There’s a terrific sunset.

**Atlin Mountain** (Center) from base camp on **Teresa Island**. Photo looks NNW.

Lupe emerged from the tiny house in time to enjoy the fading glory of what had been a most memorable day.

**Atlin Mountain** (Center), **Mount Minto** (far R). Photo looks NW.

**Atlin Mountain** (L of Center), **Mount Minto** (R), **Mount Hitchcock** (far R). Photo looks NNW.

**Mount Minto** (L), **Mount Hitchcock** (R). Photo looks N.

8-14-22, 8:26 AM, 5,300 foot base camp on Teresa Island – Lupe sat staring N, hoping in vain for the return of 3 caribou that had been grazing way down the slope. Prior to the American Dingo’s journey to Teresa Island, SPHP had greatly wondered how much and what types of wildlife she might encounter here?

The answer, virtually none. Other than a few small birds, Lupe hadn’t seen any wildlife during the past 2 days. The 3 caribou were a complete surprise this morning, but had vanished as soon as they’d seen her.

Waiting in vain for the return of the caribou. Photo looks N.

The tiny house disassembled and strapped to the pack, SPHP hoisted it all once more.

It’s that time, Looper! Onward! Puppy, ho!

Returning to the 5,200+ foot plateau at the N end of Birch Mountain, SPHP called a brief halt to peer down on the island near Sandy Beach where Lupe needed to get back to.

**Island by Sandy Beach** (lower R). Photo looks NE.

Bearings set, the steepest part of the descent down Birch Mountain’s N slope began. Staying a little farther W than during her ascent, Lupe was able to follow the edge of rock slides much farther down the mountain before they finally ended, forcing her into the forest.

Almost immediately upon entering the forest, Loop came across a couple of small, flat areas of bare dirt that were close together. Discovering a clear trail, she followed it NNE. This trail greatly aided SPHP in getting down the steepest part of the mountain without all the bushwhacking required among stunted evergreens encountered during Lupe’s ascent 2 days ago.

After 0.3 mile, the trail faded away. About time to turn E, anyway! The long descent continued, although not as steeply, through heavily forested terrain. Nothing looked at all familiar until Lupe reached the bog again.

8-14-22, 1:50 PM – Somehow, Lupe had made it over to the NW end of Sandy Beach, a cause for concern, since the blackwater lagoon was now between her and SPHP. Afraid she might try to swim across the lagoon, SPHP thrashed SE through the forest trying to get past it. As if by some Dingo magic, Lupe suddenly reappeared nearby.

The sky was mostly overcast, the day pleasantly warm, when Lupe and SPHP reached Sandy Beach together. To SPHP’s surprise, a white cabin cruiser was pulled up onto the sand, its occupants about ready to cast off. Local residents, they expressed surprise, almost disbelief, upon learning Lupe had climbed Birch Mountain.

The visitors left, and Sandy Beach was the epitome of solitude again.

Back at **Sandy Beach**. **Monarch Mountain** (R). Photo looks NE.

Hungry, Looper? We might as well have something to eat.

Bobby Smallwood isn’t coming back to get us until an hour before sunset, right, SPHP?

That’s the plan, Loop. We’ve got a long wait, but that’s OK. Love it here!

The afternoon was sublime! Nothing to do, but relax in glorious total isolation on Teresa Island, listening to the waves lapping into shore, all while enjoying the sweet success of having been to Birch Mountain. Lupe snoozed, or barked at a squirrel that came specifically to provide entertainment. SPHP slept on the sand, and waded in the cold, clear shallows along shore.

Relaxing at **Sandy Beach**. Photo looks ESE.

Waking from a nap, a small flotilla of birds paddled by, often ducking under the waves only to resurface somewhere else. They eventually vanished over by the island off the point.

As evening came on, the sky darkened. SPHP cleaned out the campfire ring, then took several strolls with Lupe while gathering driftwood to stack up for whoever might want to use it next.

**Atlin Mountain** (Center) from **Sandy Beach**. Photo looks NW.

Hours drifted by. The wait continued. Neither Lupe nor SPHP cared.

You know, Loop. If the boat doesn’t show up until tomorrow, I would be completely fine with that! How awesome is this?

8-14-22, 8:11 PM, Sandy Beach on Teresa Island – Suddenly, tranquility was broken by a faint distant roar. A dot racing across the waves grew in size. The boat was coming! Within minutes, the engine throttled down, and the vessel drifted into shore.

The water taxi arrives at **Sandy Beach**. Photo looks N.

Grabbing the pack, SPHP boosted Lupe up onto the boat as soon as it slid into the sand, then climbed aboard after her. Bobby Smallwood wasn’t captain this time, having sent Kenny, his daughter’s boyfriend, instead. Just as good! Two minutes later, the Carolina Dog was bouncing across the waves, Teresa Island rapidly receding behind her.

Leaving **Teresa Island**. Photo looks SSW.

As the boat sped on, more of Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.) came into view. The summit was hidden in the clouds, the sky looking almost stormy. What fabulous luck to have been up there yesterday!

Adventure’s end, gazing back at **Birch Mountain**.

8-14-22, 8:35 PM, Atlin – Definitely some weather moving in! Lupe stood on the docks looking back at Birch Mountain. SPHP had already settled up with Bobby Smallwood’s wife, Jodie, at their cabin office.

**Birch Mountain** from Atlin. Photo looks SSW with help from the telephoto lens.

So, how much did it all come to, SPHP?

$392.00 CAN, taxes included, Loopster. Right about what I expected. Our single most expensive adventure ever!

Worth every penny, SPHP! Birch Mountain was awesome start to finish!

Oh, yeah! Couldn’t agree more, Looper! One of our very best adventures ever, if you ask me. So glad Edith Sidler put us onto Bobby Smallwood!

I’m just glad you didn’t chicken out because of the weather forecast, SPHP! After all these years, this really was our golden opportunity, and you made the right choice.

Every once in a while, we do the right thing, Loop.

Well, the whole glorious Birch Mountain adventure was over. Sad that it was in the rearview mirror now, but that’s the nature of things.

Onward! Puppy, ho!

8-14-22, the favorite ridge off Hwy 7 overlooking the N end of Atlin Lake – A cool breeze was blowing, when Lupe arrived at dusk. She stayed on her pink blanket in the RAV4, while SPHP heated up a can of chili for dinner. Feasting on chili and Ritz crackers, the American Dingo watched as darkness fell over Mount Minto, Atlin Lake, and on the far S horizon, oh-so-fabulous Birch Mountain, too!

On **Birch Mountain**, **Teresa Island** in **Atlin Lake**, British Columbia, Canada 8-13-22

Links & Contact Information:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Birch Mountain, Skagway Ranges, British Columbia, Canada – Part 1: Across Atlin Lake to Teresa Island! (8-13-22)

Bobby Smallwood (water taxi) – Phone: (250) 651-2488

Discovery Helicopters

Glacier View Cabins (Peter & Edith Sidler owners)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Birch Mountain, Skagway Ranges, British Columbia, Canada – Part 1: Across Atlin Lake to Teresa Island! (8-12-22)

Part 2 of Day 12, and Days 13 & 14 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-10-22, morning – The 20 mile backwoods drive to pavement near the bridge over the Kispiox River took a while. SPHP stopped for fuel and supplies at old Hazelton, then again at a Subway in New Hazelton to buy a couple of Great Canadian footlongs before driving W on Yellowhead Highway No. 16.

Sunny and warm. Not a cloud in the sky! After Lupe’s titanic day getting to Kispiox Mountain (6,877 ft.), and a memorable, but unplanned night out on Moonlit Mountain (5,951 ft.), the relaxing drive quickly made SPHP super drowsy. It didn’t take long at all to get to Seeley Lake.

Ugh! Can’t drive any farther, Looper. Going to stop here at the rest area.

What? It’s not even close to noon yet, SPHP, and the AC feels good.

I’ll put the windows down for you, Loop, but I’ve simply got to take a nap before I pass out.

The Seeley Lake rest area was empty when SPHP parked the RAV4, but soon plenty of people and vehicles were coming and going. So what? Famished, SPHP devoured one of the footlongs, sharing some of it with Lupe, then chugged a bunch of orange juice. Had to move the RAV4 a few times during the next 2 or 3 hours to keep it in the shade, but other than that, SPHP was dead to the world.

8-10-22, 1:15 PM, Seeley Lake –

About time, SPHP! How are you feeling? Can we keep going? It’s hot, and I’m roasting!

Feeling much better, Loop! You slept, too. Don’t tell me you didn’t!

Driving W again on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 after leaving Seeley Lake, SPHP eventually turned N on Cassiar Highway No. 37. The rest of the day was spent cruising N on the Cassiar.

Laying on her pink blanket, either looking out the window or snoozing as she pleased, Lupe rode in air-conditioned comfort as mile after scenic mile rolled by. The temperature hit a searing 87ºF and stayed there for hours, so brief stops were few and far between.

8-10-22, 7:21 PM – Drove a long way today! Very enjoyable, too, but this was far enough. The Carolina Dog stood on the N bank of the Stikine River, a favorite stop along the Cassiar, but this would be the first time she’d ever gotten to stay here overnight.

The river was running low in August. A mostly forested mountain was on the other side. The top was was open, though. Looked pretty easy. Might be fun to climb it someday, but it wasn’t on Lupe’s list this year. Never hurts to dream, though!

C’mon, Loop! Want to go look for squirrels?

The American Dingo dashed off into the trees.

Evening along the **Stikine River**. Photo looks SE.

8-11-22, 8:02 AM, Stikine River – Morning began with a walk along the river, followed by a longer stroll on the old road leading to the property where they rent horses. Lupe found a squirrel to bark at, which made her happy, then it was back to Cassiar Highway No. 37.

Start of a new day down by the **Stikine River**. Photo looks WSW.

At Dease Lake, SPHP treated the RAV4 to 91 octane gasoline at a mere $2.119 CAN per liter. Might as well, regular wasn’t much less, and it wasn’t like you could shop around here.

8-11-22, 10:58 AM, Cottonwood River – The RAV4 purred like a kitten, but by the time Lupe reached the Cottonwood River, a chance to get out and stretch for a few minutes was sounding like a good idea. Turned out there were 2 rest areas here. The one with a sign was on the S side, but didn’t provide access to the river, which was down a steep bank.

The unsigned N rest area, though, was awesome! Lupe could go right down to the confluence of the Cottonwood River and a beautiful large tributary joining in from the N. Immediately below the confluence was an enormous deep pool, which would have made a great swimming hole during yesterday’s heat wave, but it was considerably cooler out today.

By the **Cottonwood River**. Photo looks SW.

Wow, we ought to camp here, SPHP! This is gorgeous!

Can’t today, Loop. We’ve got hundreds of miles to go yet, but I do agree. As far as a place to camp along the Cassiar Highway, this has got to be about the best spot we’ve ever seen. We’ll have to spend a night here sometime.

8-11-22, 1:06 PM, British Columbia/Yukon Territory border – Had to stop here! Lupe stood by the big Yukon Larger Than Life sign. The sign had been brand new and unblemished back when the Carolina Dog reached it the very first time back in 2016. Now it was plastered with stickers, as it had been every year since.

Arriving at the **Yukon Territory border**! Photo looks N.

The Yukon! I can’t believe we’re back, SPHP! Remember how happy we were the first time we got here?

I’ll never forget it, Loop. I practically cried, I was so happy seeing you by this sign.

After a short romp in the woods just to get the circulation going, it was back to the RAV4. The junction with the Alaska Highway was only 2 miles N. Time to turn W!

8-11-22, 4:42 PM, Teslin Lake – Gasoline prices were better in Teslin, only $1.899 CAN per liter, so SPHP filled the RAV4 this time. It was just a little farther to the rest area along Teslin Lake where Lupe and SPHP always stopped for a look at the Dawson Peaks.

**Dawson Peaks** (Center) from **Teslin Lake**. Photo looks SE.

The huge lake was higher than Lupe had ever seen it before, but that wasn’t what SPHP was thinking about. During the afternoon drive W on the Alaska Highway, the sky had gradually clouded up. No blue sky at all now in any direction. Not good!

**Teslin Lake** beneath an overcast sky. Photo looks NW.

At Teslin, SPHP had managed to get a weather forecast for Atlin. Decent day tomorrow, then 3 cloudy days in a row, followed by 4 days of rain. Hot and sunny like yesterday would have been ideal. The big question was, how cloudy would it get? A low ceiling would ruin everything.

By the time Lupe reached Jake’s Corner, a leaden sky had SPHP full of doubt. Far to the S, a long sought objective, which was supposed to be one of the American Dingo’s grandest adventures of this entire Dingo Vacation, was now visible on the horizon. The sky was lighter there.

7-26-22, home, Black Hills of South Dakota –

Find out anything yet, SPHP?

No, but I might have a lead, Loop! Remember when we met Peter Sidler, owner of Glacier View Cabins in Atlin back in 2019, when we were trying to find a way to get across Atlin Lake? Tried calling him to see if he’s got any motorboats to rent that we could reserve, but didn’t get an answer. However, just searching the internet, I found an interesting article dated 11-10-21 in Adventures NW magazine. It’s called An Island in the Sky, written by Lawrence Millman.

Is it about Teresa Island, SPHP?

Yes, it is, Loop! In fact, this article is about the only thing I can find that mentions anything at all about climbing Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.). Millman talks about hiring an Austrian mountaineer-artist guide who has a motorboat. The guide took him to the NW side of Teresa Island. They went a long way up an avalanche chute to avoid “virtually impenetrable forests”, but Lawrence decided to turn back before reaching the summit.

We could hire the same guide, SPHP!

Yeah, that’s what I’m thinking, Loopster, if he isn’t too expensive. Bet it’s not cheap, though! And what’s this “we could hire” business? You aren’t chipping in!

Oh, yes I am! At least, in a way. Does the article say how to contact this guide, SPHP? You should call him! Here’s a suggestion that might save you big money. Don’t ask for guide service, just ask how much it costs for him to get us to Teresa Island and back. We’ll find our own way up Birch Mountain.

Silly Dingo! That’s been the plan all along! We just need a way to get to and from Teresa Island. Unfortunately, the article doesn’t give any contact information. However, it does say the guide’s name is Gernot Dick. Peter Sidler has been in Atlin for decades. If he doesn’t have any motorboats to rent, he’ll know how to find Gernot!

In the evening, Edith Sidler, Peter’s wife, answered the phone when SPHP called Glacier View Cabins again. Peter was unavailable, but Edith knew the scoop. As in 2019, they had kayaks to rent, but no motorboats available. The news on Gernot Dick was disappointing, too. They knew Gernot, but he’d moved away, and wasn’t in Atlin anymore.

Edith had a suggestion on who to call, though. Bobby Smallwood! She gave SPHP a phone number for him. If that didn’t work, SPHP should try hanging out at the Mountain Shack restaurant near the gas bar in Atlin. Someone there ought to have an idea on how to get to Teresa Island.

Bobby Smallwood’s wife, Jodie, answered the number Edith provided. Bobby was unavailable, too, but Jodie answered SPHP’s questions. No, they didn’t have any motorboat rentals, but they did have a boat, and could provide water taxi services. $350 CAN per hour. Figure an hour total for both drop-off and pickup from the closest part of Teresa Island.

7-28-22, home, Black Hills of South Dakota –

Just talked to Bobby Smallwood, Loopster! He confirmed that their water taxi service is $350 CAN per hour. Told him to expect us sometime within the next 2 or 3 weeks. An hour minimum for both drop-off and pickup, and potentially quite a bit more depending on where we want to start.

So, we’ve got a way over to Teresa Island! That’s fantastic, SPHP! Did Mr. Smallwood know anything about the best way up Birch Mountain?

He’s never been up there, Loop. Hardly anyone goes to Teresa Island with the intention of climbing Birch. Peter Sidler’s been up it at least twice, though. Remember how he told us that the best approach was along a rock slide on the SE part of the island? Bobby told me about a rock slide on the E side of Teresa Island at 12 mile point that might be a good place to start. Maybe that’s the same spot Peter recommended? Bobby also knew about the avalanche chutes on the Torres Channel side of the island.

Torres Channel? What side of Teresa Island is that, SPHP?

NW side, Looper. No doubt one of those avalanche chutes is the same one that Gernot Dick took Lawrence Millman up.

8-11-22, 6:00 PM, Alaska Highway at Jake’s Corner – After pondering the gloomy gray sky for 15 minutes, SPHP reluctantly came to a decision.

I don’t know, Loopster. Guess we’ve got to forget about Birch Mountain for the time being. Hate to, but I’m no good at timed events. Since we have no idea on what to expect if we do manage to get to Teresa Island, I’m not even going to attempt it unless we have at least 3 consecutive days of good weather in the forecast. I better call Bobby Smallwood, and tell him we’re not coming.

Oh, SPHP! Are you sure? We’ve been wanting to climb Birch Mountain ever since we first went to Atlin in 2018. Remember how beautiful and mysterious Birch looked when we saw it from Monarch Mountain then? Birch Mountain is the 2nd most prominent lake island in the world, and it’s so close! We’ve got to climb it! We won’t get a million chances, you know! It’s been 3 years since the last time we were here.

I’m sorry, Looper. I don’t want to pay a bunch of money to get to Teresa Island, only to find out that Birch Mountain is socked in with fog by the time we manage to get to the summit. We need a better forecast. Tell ya what, I’ll let Bobby Smallwood know we might swing by in September, weather permitting, on our way home. Who knows? We might get lucky.

No cell service at Jake’s corner? Every attempt to call Bobby Smallwood on the new iPhone had dropped without even ringing once. Maybe SPHP was doing something wrong? The decent thing to do would be to drive down to Atlin, and let Bobby know Lupe wasn’t going to Teresa Island at this time, instead of flaking out and being a no show. Atlin was an hour S, though.

8-11-22, 7:00 PM, a ridge off Hwy No. 7 – The American Dingo stood at a favorite spot with a great view of Mount Minto (6,913 ft.) and the N end of Atlin Lake. Still a long way S, both Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.) and Atlin Mountain (6,722 ft.) were in sight, too.

**Birch Mountain** (far L) and **Atlin Mountain** (L) beyond **Atlin Lake**. **Mount Minto** (R). Photo looks S.

Zoomed in on **Birch Mountain** (L) and **Atlin Mountain** (Center). Photo looks S.

The sky really is lighter down this way, Loop. Maybe I’m being too hasty? You’re right about having limited chances to ever climb Birch Mountain.

Since we’re going to Atlin in the morning, anyway, SPHP, let’s decide what to do then.

Shortly before sundown, sunlight was clearly visible on Birch Mountain.

**Birch Mountain**. Photo looks S with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

8-12-22, 7:55 AM, Atlin – For the first time in 3 years, Lupe stood down by the Tarahne along the E shore of Atlin Lake. Both Birch Mountain and Atlin Mountain were in sight right across the lake, and guess what? The sky was clear as a bell, a beautiful blue, with scarcely a cloud in sight! Even SPHP was excited! Maybe Birch Mountain was going to work out?

By the Atlin welcome sign on the way into town.

By the **Tarahne**. **Birch Mountain** (L). Photo looks SW.

**Atlin Mountain** (Center) from **Atlin**, BC. Photo looks WSW.

Bobby said there isn’t any cell phone service here in Atlin, Loop. I’m going to see if I can use a phone in the hotel to give him a call. You’ll have to wait in the RAV4 for a few minutes.

Odd. Already 8:00 AM, and no one was at the front desk. The lights weren’t even on. SPHP hung around for 10 minutes. A guest came by wanting to check out, but still no staff to be seen.

So, what did Mr. Smallwood say, SPHP?

Nothing. Haven’t spoken to him yet, Loop. Couldn’t use the phone in there.

How are we going to find him then, SPHP?

I don’t know. Guess we’ll do like Edith Sidler said, and ask around for him at the Mountain Shack.

The Mountain Shack was only a few blocks away. Lupe waited in the RAV4 again, while SPHP went in. 6 or 7 men were sitting at a long table having breakfast, the only customers in the restaurant.

Pardon me, but would any of you gentlemen happen to know where I might be able to find Bobby Smallwood?

Everyone roared with laughter, like this was some huge joke.

We were just talking about Bobby! He’s got a big shop with a red roof, and a house out Surprise Lake Road across from the airport. It’s not far, 3 km. You’ll find him.

Bobby Smallwood was at home, working on machinery in his front yard. Yup, still $350 CAN per hour for water taxi service. Closest part of Teresa Island near the N end would be about $350. $700 to get to 12 Mile Point, or $850 to the SE rock slide Peter Sidler had recommended 3 years ago. SPHP didn’t even ask about the Torres Channel avalanche chutes.

If you’re not sure what you want to do, you can take a drive S down to Warm Bay, and have a look at the E side of Teresa Island from there.

I might do that. Thanks, Mr. Smallwood!

SPHP parked the RAV4 at the Atlin airport. The American Dingo went into her usual barking frenzy as a helicopter landed. The pilot leapt out, and began unloading big gray plastic boxes full of fresh-caught salmon. Two men ran over to stack the boxes on a pallet carried by a forklift. The helicopter took off again as soon as the last box was unloaded.

Well, shoot! Hoped to get a chance to talk to the pilot, Loop!

How come, SPHP?

Wanted to check what it would cost to fly to Birch Mountain.

Me in a helicopter, SPHP? Are you serious?

That would be quite the adventure, wouldn’t it, Looper? Anyway, doesn’t hurt to ask. Looks like they’re mighty busy, though. Might as well take a drive down to Warm Bay.

Driving S on Warm Bay Road, SPHP kept peering into the forest on both sides. Everyone, even Lawrence Millwood’s article, seemed to be under the impression that the forests on Teresa Island were impassable, which must be why the recommended routes were always avalanche chutes, rock slides, and such.

The forests over here were thick, but didn’t look impassable. Might be an entirely different situation on seldom visited Teresa Island, though.

8-12-22, 10:07 AM, Warm Bay – After getting a drink, Lupe stood along the shore of Atlin Lake, a few slowly drowning bushes beyond her. The whole NE side of Teresa Island was in sight, but the even longer SE end wasn’t. Should have been able to identify 12 Mile Point from here, but it didn’t really stand out.

**Birch Mountain** on **Teresa Island** from **Warm Bay**, **Atlin Lake**. Photo looks WNW.

So, what do you think, SPHP?

Oh, I don’t know, Looper. Ought to have binoculars! Teresa Island does look somewhat rockier down this way, but I don’t see any big rock slide we could go up like I was expecting. The E side of the island is steeper than the N side, too. To tell the truth, I’m really not seeing anything that makes me want to pay twice as much to start out from 12 Mile Point.

Well, it sure is a beautiful day, SPHP! Have you decided yet if we’re even going to Teresa Island? Did Bobby Smallwood have an updated weather forecast?

Yeah, he did. Practically identical to yesterday’s. Clear today, followed by 3 cloudy days before it starts raining. No guarantees on conditions at the summit, of course, but Bobby didn’t think we’d have a problem.

Are we really going then, SPHP, or not?

Such a perfect day today, that I’m leaning toward it, Looper. If tomorrow was going to be this clear, we’d be going for sure. Let’s head back to Atlin. We’ll make another attempt to check on helicopter prices, then we’ll have all the data.

Alright, but you’re just procrastinating, SPHP! Time’s a-wasting!

Back in Atlin, SPHP stopped by Discovery Helicopters. Matt, the owner, lived in a house practically right next to the helipad.

Birch Mountain? Yes, we can take you and your dog. The boat is going to be a lot cheaper, though.

Matt quoted prices anywhere from $1,500 to $1,900 CAN. That included both drop-off and pickup with as much or little time in between as SPHP wanted. Cheaper to get dropped off high on the mountain, because that saved fuel. Price could be split with other passengers, if anyone else was going. Matt’s smaller copter, which would cost a little less, was out all day on a job, but would be available tomorrow.

SPHP hesitated. A pretty penny to be sure, but Lupe could be on Birch today in excellent weather instead of taking a chance on tomorrow, and whether or not it was really possible to force a way thousands of feet up the mountain through trackless primeval forest.

You know, you could climb Sentinel Mountain (6,316 ft.). Go anytime you like for free, and not have to depend on anyone else. Sentinel’s also has a terrific view of Atlin Lake and the Llewellyn Glacier, too.

Yeah, I know, Matt. Appreciate the suggestion. Brought maps of Sentinel, but it isn’t Birch, second most prominent lake island peak in the world.

Matt smiled. He knew.

Tell you what. I’ve got another flight this morning, and have to get going. Should be back by 1:00 PM. Think about it. If you decide you want me to take you, come around anytime after that, and we’ll get you over there.

SPHP tried checking on the helicopter company at the airport one more time. Same thing as before. The copter soon came in again and landed, but took off immediately after being unloaded.

They’re too busy here, SPHP. You’re never going to get to talk to them. Price will be about the same, anyway. Decision time!

8-12-22, 11:00 AM, Surprise Lake Road E of Atlin – Bobby Smallwood was at his shop now. SPHP showed him a topo map.

Bobby, see this little island on the E side of Teresa Island about even with the N end of Birch Mountain? Is there somewhere around that area where you could drop us off?

Sure can! That’s Sandy Beach. Dropping you off there will be easy, but that’s several kilometers S of the closest part of the island. We’ll have to charge you a little more than an hour’s worth of time. You OK with that?

Yes, that’s fine. We don’t want to have to push through any more forest than we have to.

Great! Are you ready to go?

Not quite. Give us 30 or 40 minutes, and we will be. Where should we meet you, and where can I park the RAV4?

I’ve got some rental cabins down by the marina just S of the hotel. You can park anywhere near the docks there.

8-12-22, 11:54 AM, Atlin Lake – Lupe was excited! After years of waiting for this moment, the Carolina Dog was aboard Bobby Smallwood’s boat, speeding across the waves straight for Teresa Island! Unbelievable!

En route to Teresa Island with Captain Smallwood at the helm!

Wouldn’t take long to get there. 15 or 20 minutes? Something like that. Almost yelling over the roar of the engine, SPHP outlined the plan. Pick up was to be at the same spot 2 days from now, an hour before sunset. A discussion about contingencies in case something went wrong ensued. Mr. Smallwood had no qualms about any of what SPHP proposed.

8-12-22, 12:07 PM, Teresa Island – Couldn’t have picked a better spot to land! While most of Teresa Island was heavily forested right down to the water’s edge, Sandy Beach really was sandy. However, as Bobby throttled down, and the boat drifted in towards shore, SPHP could see a deep, slimy lagoon 15 feet beyond the beach. Complaining to Bobby, he was unperturbed, merely steering off toward a slightly different spot where the bow slid into the sand.

Arriving at **Sandy Beach** on **Teresa Island**. Photo looks N.

Lupe and SPHP leapt down onto the sand. A moment later, Bobby fired up the engine, and was off.

Bobby heads back to Atlin. Photo looks NE.

Oh, my gosh, SPHP! We’re actually here! Alone on Teresa Island!

Yup! Incredible, isn’t it? We’ve really gone and done it this time, haven’t we, Loopster? This might be our greatest adventure ever! Let’s see if we can find a way around this lagoon. It’s still here, too!

Sandy Beach was easily several hundred feet long. Turning SE, Lupe sniffed her way along the edge of Atlin Lake toward the point near the island. Thankfully, the icky lagoon didn’t extend that far.

**Sandy Beach**. Photo looks SE toward the island just off shore.

It was a gorgeous day, sunny and warm! So happy to be here! SPHP felt great about the decision. Near the point by the island, Loopster found a stone campfire ring with a couple of rusty, old metal grates propped up against a tree next to it. Even more surprising was a sign indicating the presence of an outhouse. An arrow pointed into the forest.

There’s a path! Let’s check it out, SPHP!

OK, Loop, but give me a moment. I want to have a look at the Peakbagger app on the iPhone to get our bearings before we leave. Might help us find this spot on the way back in a couple of days.

The app said Birch Mountain’s summit was 4.5 miles SW. SPHP made a note of it.

Can’t you just start a GPS track, SPHP?

I could, if I knew how, Loop, but I don’t yet. No worries. This will do.

The path went more than 100 feet into the forest before dead-ending at a big green, open-air potty. It was in great condition. Looked like new.

I’m guessing privacy isn’t a big concern here on Teresa Island, Loop.

You humans are funny about that, SPHP, but I think you’re right. Bet we own the whole island right now! It’s our own private empire!

Maybe. Who knows what’s out here, Loopster? Anyway, our long-sought moment of truth has arrived. Time to find out if this forest is really, truly impassable, and I’ve just blown $400 CAN for nothing, or not. Onward! Puppy ho!

Beyond the green potty, the forest looked like no one had ever been here before. It was dense, but not impassable here at the start. The deadfall wasn’t all that bad, but branches were everywhere. Lupe could sneak through with relative ease, but SPHP’s progress was very slow. The air was still, the forest completely silent except for the constant snapping of branches as SPHP pushed on through.

At first, the ground was nearly flat, but Loopster soon began gradually gaining elevation. The idea was to head W or WNW for a couple of km over to where the Carolina Dog could turn S up Birch Mountain’s N slope. From a distance, that route had always appeared to be easiest. If Lupe could get above treeline, SPHP believed success was just about guaranteed, since the upper regions of the mountain were barren and not as steep.

SPHP thrashed through the forest taking the path of least resistance. The forest floor became a soft, spongy carpet of thick, green moss. A variety of mushrooms, some of them enormous, sprang forth from it. No views at all. Nothing could be seen except the immediate vicinity.

The first sign that anyone, or anything, had ever been here came half an hour after leaving Sandy Beach.

Look, SPHP! A trail!

The seldom used trail was clear enough to follow NW as it slowly gained elevation.

Unfortunately, the trail soon curved N, the wrong direction. Lupe stuck with it a little farther, but when the trail began to lose elevation, she abandoned it to resume her explorations W.

45 minutes after leaving the trail, the American Dingo reached a clearing full of thick vegetation. This turned out to be a boggy region, but since it wasn’t all that wet, and SPHP could avoid the relatively few holes full of water, traveling through the bog was easier than staying in the forest.

For the first time, Lupe now had a view of a rounded barren high point at the N end of Birch Mountain. It was literally thousands of feet higher.

**Upper N end of Birch Mountain** (L of Center) from the bog. Photo looks WSW.

Holy smokers, Loop! We’ve been gaining a little more elevation lately, but it looks like we’ve hardly made any progress at all!

Well, what did you expect, SPHP, a walk in the park? Hasn’t been that long since we left Sandy Beach, and rumor has it that Birch Mountain is the 2nd most prominent lake island peak in the world. In fact, you’re the one who has been spreading it! Keep going!

The bog was more extensive than it first appeared. Lupe eventually crossed two streams so small that SPHP could simply step over them. When the bog finally ended, it was back into the forest.

Traveling through the bog. Photo looks ESE.

It was warm and muggy. The rate of climb was increasing. Lupe started playing her stalking game, hanging back until SPHP was completely out of sight before following. A little nerve wracking in such a wild place, but SPHP was making a lot of noise, and she always appeared quickly when called.

8-12-22, 2:09 PM, in the forest on Teresa Island –

Loop, come! Let’s take a break here!

As SPHP stripped down to a T-shirt, slinking stealthily through the forest, Lupe reappeared and laid down.

Taking it easy at the first rest break spot.

Hungry, Looper?

No, not yet. I’m hot, like you. Must be nice to have removable fur!

It is! Don’t know how you manage with the same outfit no matter whether it’s hot, cold, or in-between. How about some water?

I don’t have much choice, SPHP, and yes to the water thing.

Should cool off some as we gain elevation, and it gets later in the day, Loop. Wish you’d stay in sight. Your stalking game is kind of dangerous in a place like this. Remember the lynx at Donjek Crossing Mountain? You might have been a goner within seconds, if you hadn’t come back when you did.

We haven’t even seen a squirrel yet, SPHP!

Yeah, well, we hadn’t seen a lynx until we did, either. Anyway, I’m greatly encouraged! This forest isn’t impassable. We’re making progress. Slow, but I feel certain we’re going to make it, don’t you?

If I don’t have a heat stroke, I will. Really no harder than plenty of other places we’ve been.

Continuing on, it was nearly impossible to tell how much farther W Lupe needed to go before turning S. The terrain was getting quite noticeably steeper, and it seemed like she still wasn’t far enough W yet. Progress was improving, though. The trees were farther apart now, creating open lanes where SPHP didn’t have to be constantly battling branches.

Loopster kept hanging back playing her stalking game. SPHP frequently paused to make certain she never stayed out of sight long.

In the more open forest. Photo looks WSW.

8-12-22, 3:29 PM, Teresa Island, 2nd rest break in the forest –

So, what does your Peakbagger app say now, SPHP?

Says it’s a good thing we’ve got lots of time. We’ve been on Teresa Island for more than 3 hours, Loop, and Birch Mountain’s summit is still 3.6 miles SSW.

We aren’t even a mile closer yet? We’ve must have gone farther than that, SPHP!

Yeah, no doubt, Looper, but not directly toward the summit.

Shortly after the second rest break, the mountain became much steeper. SPHP tried to lead Lupe farther W, but the terrain often seemed to be forcing her SSW instead. At least, that was directly toward the summit. Better not get too steep, though!

After gaining quite a bit of elevation, Lupe came to a second trail. She didn’t follow it very far, since it was just a level path that really wasn’t any help getting up the mountain. Climbing SW, small rock formations began to appear. Dense stands of young trees formed almost impossible barriers, forcing sideways traverses W. Even Lupe was having trouble. SPHP had to boost the American Dingo up some ledges, and often had to cling to trees.

However, none of it was actually impassable or scary steep, and small clearings were now appearing, along with distant views. Atlin Lake was in sight, and way off toward the N end, Mount Minto (6,913 ft.) and Mount Hitchcock (5,886 ft.) were, too!

At a steep clearing with a few rocks. Photo looks SSW.

**Mount Minto** (L) and **Mount Hitchcock** (L of Center) on the horizon. **N end of Teresa Island** and **Atlin Lake** in the foreground. Photo looks NNE.

The stalking game was over! Suddenly energized by the challenge, the Carolina Dog kept right up with SPHP, climbing aggressively.

8-12-22, 5:33 PM, Birch Mountain’s N slope – Sheesh! Still 3.2 miles SSW to the summit. Lupe had only made 0.4 mile in the last 2 hours! The news was otherwise excellent, though.

The Carolina Dog was near treeline now, with only scattered stands of conifers still above, otherwise just open slopes of grass and low tundra vegetation. Big rock slides and a long snowbank were a short distance W. The view of Atlin Mountain (6,722 ft.) and Atlin Lake back to the N was spectacular!

Near treeline on **Birch Mountain’s N slope**. Photo looks SSW.

Looking N. **Atlin Mountain** (L), **Mount Minto** (Center), **Mount Hitchcock** (R of Center).

Unopposed by anything other than gravity now, progress was much more rapid. Clearly enjoying roaming the open territory, Loopster led the way, while SPHP huffed and puffed. A final tree appeared, a small, brown, dead evergreen still a couple hundred feet higher. Getting to it, another small tree was higher yet and even farther ahead.

Above treeline on **Birch Mountain’s N slope**. Photo looks SSW.

Heading for yet another **“last” small tree** (Center). Photo looks S.

Rinse and repeat! Lupe was always climbing toward an apparent high point, only to find another long upward trudge ahead upon reaching it, but the rate of climb was diminishing. More tundra appeared. Couldn’t be too much farther to a top!

Still climbing, on more tundra and fewer rocks now. Photo looks S.

**Atlin Mountain** from the **N end of Birch Mountain**. **Torres Channel** of **Atlin Lake** (Center and R). Photo looks NW.

Oh, yeah? It was still farther than it looked, but the climb was getting easier and easier as the grade steadily diminished. Lupe finally reached a plateau strewn with football-sized rocks among low tundra. A glorious sight was ahead.

SPHP, look! There it is! Birch Mountain’s summit!

Can’t be much farther! *Onward! Puppy ho!* Photo looks S.

On the **5,200+ foot plateau**. **Birch Mountain summit** (R of Center). Photo looks SSW.

8-12-22, 6:57 PM, 5,200+ foot plateau at the N end of Birch Mountain – SPHP dumped the heavy pack. Ugh! Much better!

We made it, Loop! How awesome is this? Too bad it’s so rocky, or we’d camp right here. Let’s take a break, and have a look at these fantabulous views!

From the N end of Birch Mountain, Atlin Lake stretching away to the N with Atlin Mountain to the NW, and Mount Minto and Mount Hitchcock on opposite sides near the far end of the lake were the most impressive sights, but the grand panorama included many beautiful peaks in other directions, too.

**Atlin Lake** from the **5,200+ foot plateau**. Photo looks N.

**Mount Minto** (L) and **Mount Hitchcock** (L of Center) near the far end on opposite sides of **Atlin Lake**. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

Zoomed in on **Mount Minto** (L) and **Mount Hitchcock** (R). Photo looks N.

Monarch Mountain (4,728 ft.), which Lupe had climbed in 2018, was in view to the NE, and the town of Atlin was visible a few miles farther N along the E shore.

**Atlin** (far L) along the opposite shore of **Atlin Lake**. **Monarch Mountain** (R of Center) just beyond **Five Mile Bay**. Photo looks NE.

**Atlin** (L of Center) along **Atlin Lake**. **Airport** (far R). Photo looks NNE with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Birch Mountain was huge! This 5,200+ foot plateau Lupe had reached at the N end, was just the start. The summit was still 2.6 miles SSW beyond a deep valley. Directly S, a vast region of easy terrain gradually rose 900 feet toward a hill at the W end of a long ridge coming up from the E. An enormous snowbank ran along the N side of the ridge.

Looking SSE from the **5,200+ foot plateau**.

8-12-22, 7:24 PM, 5,200+ foot plateau at the N end of Birch Mountain –

Well, Loop, had enough of a break? Are you ready to move on? We might as well go as far as we can before pitching your tiny house.

I suppose we better, SPHP. Looks like there are some grassy regions on the way to that next big hill. Maybe we can pitch it somewhere over there?

Heading SSW, straight for the true summit, Lupe crossed the rest of the 5,200+ foot plateau. A gradual descent of 100 feet got her to a snowbank in a shallow ravine draining toward the E that cut across the mountain.

Heading toward the **summit** (L of Center). Photo looks SSW.

Cooling off on the delightful snowbank. Photo looks. WNW.

From the ravine, it was all uphill. The terrain was easy, but exhaustion was taking a toll. Lupe pressed on, going up a series of grassy benches until they were about to end, and give way to rockier terrain.

8-12-22, 8:20 PM, Birch Mountain, 2.2 miles NNE of the summit – What a day! 1.5 hours before sunset, SPHP pitched Lupe’s tiny house in a grassy nook sheltered by a 6 foot high escarpment topped by low bushes. The air was calm and comfortably cool. Clouds of gnats and a few pesky mosquitoes danced in the evening sun.

Look at that magnificent view, Loop! Still hard to believe we’re actually here on Teresa Island after dreaming of this for years, but proof is all around us! Not a cloud in the sky, either, and we’re in great position. If this weather will hold overnight, we’ll make it to the summit!

How high do you think we are here, SPHP?

Around 5,300 feet, Loop, maybe a little more.

The views are splendid, SPHP, but I’m tired and hungry. Can we rest now?

Absolutely, sweet puppy! Super big day tomorrow! We better be ready!

**Base camp**, **Birch Mountain** on **Teresa Island**, British Columbia, Canada 8-12-22

Links & Contact Information:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Birch Mountain on Teresa Island, Skagway Ranges, British Columbia, Canada – Part 2: Base Camp to the Summit! (8-13-22)

Bobby Smallwood (water taxi) – Phone: (250) 651-2488

Discovery Helicopters

Glacier View Cabins (Peter & Edith Sidler owners)

Yukon Bound! – Getting Nowhere on the Long Road North (8-8-19 to 8-10-19)

Days 4-6 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-8-19, dawn, Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 W of Jasper – Uh-oh. Warning! Dingo triggering event ahead! Not another soul on the road yet, but SPHP had to brake. One of those portable temporary stoplights for road construction had just turned red. Lupe stared in disbelief, her eyes growing big as saucers as she began to realize what she was coming to. Her hackles rose. SPHP completely shut the windows on her side of the G6. Here it comes!

The G6 exploded with noise, as Looper sprang into action. A full-fledged 5 alarm, frothing at the mouth, barking frenzy was underway! The American Dingo bounded up and down, back and forth, whacking her head against the windshield, nose smearing against the side window, decibel level as high and shrill as she could possibly maintain it.

Egads! Turn green for pity sake! The stoplight remained a stubborn cherry red. 15 feet outside Lupe’s window a magnificent bull elk looked up momentarily. What was all that racket? Whatever it was all about, the elk decided it didn’t concern him, and went back to casually munching whatever it was he was munching.

A mile later, sides still heaving, Lupe gasped.

What is the matter with you, SPHP? It takes a thermonuclear device to get your attention! An enormous giant deer was frozen in place right there outside the G6! Easy pickings! We could have been feasting on fresh, warm, bloody venison right now! Don’t tell me you didn’t see it!

Oh, I saw it alright, beyond a brown and white blur! How could I not see it with you about to bust a gut for 10 solid minutes? I thought that light would never turn green. We are in a Canadian National Park, Loop. I’m reasonably certain park officials would frown upon us devouring a freshly killed elk right next to the highway. Besides, what makes you think it would be that easy? That giant deer must have outweighed you 50 to 1!

You would have helped me, wouldn’t you, SPHP?

Of course. I could use a few years free room and board courtesy of the Canadian government. Shudder to think what might become of you, though, Loop.

Tangle Ridge had been a grand success yesterday, but over 3,800 feet of elevation gain had taken a toll. The giant deer frenzy must have sucked up whatever energy the Carolina Dog had recovered overnight. Yukon bound, the day turned into a relaxing road trip. Serenity returned as Loopster took to snoozing on her pink blankie.

That didn’t mean there couldn’t be a few stops at favorite places. Still needed to stretch now and then to keep the blood circulating.

**Overlander Falls**, Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia.

**Rearguard Falls**, Rearguard Falls Provincial Park, British Columbia

**Rearguard Falls** on the **Fraser River**.

Exploring near the **Goat River** rest stop.

The whole day got spent cruising NW on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16, all of it in British Columbia after crossing the border from Alberta early on. Shortly before reaching Fort Fraser, a tall plume of black smoke came into view on Lupe’s side of the highway. Traffic was backed up ahead.

Turned out to be a badly burnt out vehicle. Spontaneous combustion? Didn’t seem to be the result of a collision. By the time Lupe went by, the fire department had already put out the fire.

Sure hope the ole’ G6 doesn’t get any ideas, SPHP!

Yeah, that’ll be us someday, Looper. We’re bailing, though, at the first sign of trouble. If you ever sniff smoke, let me know right away.

Like that would help! I’m not expecting any rapid response miracles out of you, SPHP, after that giant deer episode.

Well, warn me anyway. I’m likely to be more excitable, if the G6 threatens to burst into flames.

At the **Dry Williams Lake** rest stop. A year ago forest fires had rained ash on the G6 here.

By late afternoon, Lupe was at Steelhead Park in Houston. Small, but exquisitely maintained. Sniffing the fragrant blossoms of all the colorful flowers was pure delight! Looper paid homage to the Dingo god, too.

**Steelhead Park** in Houston is always such a lovely break!

*So why doesn’t our yard look like this, SPHP? … Something to do with a brown thumb, Loop!*

8-8-19, 5:45 PM, Smithers, British Columbia – The long drive was over for now. Lupe reached Smithers near the Babine Mountains with sufficient daylight remaining to explore the town. She visited the Bulkley River, then took a stroll down Main Street looking for the Sausage Factory. A year ago she had met the former owners, Fred and Teresa Reitsma, at Five Finger Rapids on the Yukon River. They’d been on their way to Dawson City.

Fred and Teresa had invited Lupe to drop by the Sausage Factory, if she ever got to Smithers again. Now she was here, but too late! The Sausage Factory was closed for the day. Too bad. It looked like a ritzy place! The product line was of considerable interest to a famished American Dingo, too. Maybe Loop could return tomorrow?

By the **Bulkley River** in Smithers, British Columbia.

Outside the **Sausage Factory**, 1107 Main Street in Smithers, British Columbia.

*We’ll go in tomorrow, right, SPHP? … With any luck, Looper!*

Hudson Bay Mountain (8,494 ft.) was on the agenda tomorrow, a super prominent (5,000 ft.+) peak W of Smithers. Lupe wouldn’t be able to get to the true summit, which was a technical climb. The S summit wasn’t much lower, though, and was supposed to be accessible by a route that continued higher from Crater Lake.

By sunset, Lupe was at the Crater Lake trailhead, high on Hudson Bay Mountain’s S flank. A gorgeous evening! Things were looking good!

**Hudson Bay Mountain** (L) from **Astlais Mountain** exactly one year earlier on 8-8-18.

8-9-19, 6:58 AM, Hudson Bay Mountain, near the Crater Lake trailhead – The Carolina Dog sniffed aimlessly around the G6. Fog and mist. Hardly an inspiring start to the day. It was what it was. Reality rules. No point in this. Oh, well.

Down in Smithers a short while later, it was just an overcast day. Only the upper half of Hudson Bay Mountain was shrouded in clouds, but that was the half Lupe had hoped to visit. Some sort of front must have moved in overnight, nothing too dramatic, but enough to be a spoiler. Kind of a shame. Hudson Bay Mountain wasn’t the only candidate on Lupe’s list in this region.

However, didn’t seem to be much sense in waiting around. The Yukon was still a long way. Somewhere skies were blue! Without even waiting for the Sausage Factory to open, Lupe was on her way again.

20 minutes W of Smithers, SPHP drove into rain. 20 minutes W of Seeley Lake, the long drive on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 finally came to an end. Lupe was on her way N on Cassiar Hwy No. 37! The Alaska Highway in Yukon Territory was now only 724 km (450 miles) away. The rain stopped 40 km later. At 60 km, a patch of blue sky was seen ahead.

The weather improved as the G6 sped N. The scenery was gorgeous! Big lakes, mountains, and rivers, but Lupe seldom got a break from being cooped up. This was really wild territory, with hardly a trail anywhere as far as SPHP knew. Daunting. The only significant stop Lupe made was at the Stikine River, a favorite spot known to harbor squirrels in the forest near the riverbank.

Lunch break at the **Bell 1 rest stop** 117 km N of Meziadin Junction.

At the **Stikine River**, looking upstream toward the Cassiar Hwy bridge.

Looking downstream. The Grand Canyon of the Stikine starts not far from here.

8-9-19, 7:15 PM, Beaver Dam rest stop along Cassiar Hwy No. 37 – Only 75 km left to the Alaska Highway, but enough was enough. After a bite to eat, having spent practically the entire day on the road, Lupe finally got to do some exploring. N of the rest stop a dirt road curved slowly NW into the forest. Maybe it would lead to the beaver dam? None was in sight at the rest stop.

A gentle 0.33 mile uphill stroll led to a bit of a drop into a little valley. No beaver dam. So far, SPHP had found only mosquitoes. Lupe was doing better. A couple of squirrels had come to her attention, and now to her enormous satisfaction, she came across a succession of mud puddles covering the entire road. The American Dingo plopped herself right down in each one, clearly enjoying lapping up murky mineral water, and that oh, so wild and natural feeling one gets from being absolutely filthy.

Upon getting back to the Cassiar Hwy, SPHP picked as much trash out of the ditches as could be carried back to the rest stop for proper disposal.

We’re doing something wrong, Loop, when a load of trash, and a dingy Dingo are the highlight of the day!

8-10-19, 35ºF at the forest fire pond along Cassiar Hwy No. 37 – Chilly out, but at least the sky was blue! By the forest fire pond Lupe squinted into the brilliant glare of the morning sun. Going to be a great day! Another one on the road again, though. Lupe had already made a few tracks. This pond was what, a mere 30 km from the Yukon?

In the early morning sunlight by the forest fire pond.

8:08 AM, 39ºF, Yukon border, Cassiar Hwy No. 37 – Two days of pent-up energy could be contained no longer. The were-puppy attacked as soon as SPHP stepped out of the G6. Leaping, growling, nipping, tugging, tearing – all the usual were-puppy tactics.

You know, were-puppy, you are at least part of the reason I’m always in tatters!

Oh, you love it, SPHP! It’s all in good fun!

For some of us. I notice you don’t ever come away turning yellow and green and purple and blue.

Sorry ’bout that. Now and then I get carried away.

Apology accepted, provided you let go of my pants without ripping them any further. How about a romp in the woods along the Yukon border? Might be a squirrel out there somewhere!

A romp and a squirrel sounded good. After visiting the Yukon border sign, Lupe dashed off into the forest. A squirrel did materialize, making SPHP look like a genius.

Made it! At the **Yukon Territory border**!

Burning off some steam early on was a good thing. 2 km N of the Yukon border Cassiar Hwy No. 37 came to an end. SPHP turned W (L) onto the Alaska Highway. Hours slipped by, the only significant stop being a now traditional one at Teslin Lake.

**Teslin Lake** – a traditional Lupe stop along the Alaska Highway.

By **Teslin Lake**. **Dawson Peaks** (R). Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.

By early afternoon, Lupe had left the Alaska Highway at Jake’s Corner, and was on her way back into British Columbia heading S on Hwy 7 to Atlin. A lunch stop was made on a bluff overlooking the N end of Atlin Lake and Mount Minto (6,913 ft.).

**Atlin Lake** and **Mount Minto** (R) from a bluff Lupe discovered in 2018. Photo looks S.

Atlin Lake is long and narrow. It was still quite a way to the town of Atlin on its E shore. Shortly before Loopster got there, SPHP spotted a couple of float planes on Como Lake, a small lake W of Hwy 7. Might be fun to go take a look. The American Dingo was all for it!

Checking out the float planes at **Como Lake**.

*Oh, this does look like fun! We could go soaring over the mountains!*

None of the stops today had been terribly long. By mid-afternoon, Lupe was back in Atlin again! A year ago, she’d had a terrific time climbing Monarch Mountain SE of town.

At the Atlin marina, with **Monarch Mountain** in the background. Photo looks SE.

Being back in Atlin was exciting! Lupe went to the waterfront to see the gorgeous lake and the Tarahne, a century old excursion boat which had once upon a time brought tourists to Atlin.

*Oh, it’s wonderful to be back at fabulous **Atlin Lake** again! And with big plans, too!*

By the **Tarahne**, which decades ago had brought tourists to Atlin.

Off to the SW was the reason Lupe was here. Across Atlin Lake near the far W shore was a large island. Teresa Island was dominated by a single massive mountain which occupied virtually the entire island. In 2018, Lupe had seen Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.), not only from Atlin, but also from Monarch Mountain (4,728 ft.).

**Birch Mountain**, the whole reason Lupe had returned to Atlin. Photo looks SW.

For the past year, SPHP couldn’t help thinking that Birch Mountain had looked climbable from the N. Why, Lupe could do that! From the top there ought to be a fantastic view of the Llewellyn Glacier, which the Carolina Dog had glimpsed on the far horizon from Monarch Mountain. Birch Mountain had a peculiarity, too, which added to its overall appeal. With 1,393 meters (4,570 ft.) of prominence, Birch Mountain was the 2nd most prominent lake island in the entire world!

Until Lupe had run across Birch Mountain, it had never occurred to SPHP that she might be capable of summiting the 2nd best of any class of mountain in the whole world, yet here was an opportunity to do so in this remote NW corner of British Columbia, an area Lupe had been close to on her summer Dingo Vacations these past 3 years. The whole notion was so enticing!

Beyond the usual weather considerations, 2 significant problems needed to be addressed. First, how to get over to Teresa Island? Second, how to get above tree line? The lower portions of the island looked densely forested. Was there a trail? If not, was the forest open enough to simply amble up through it without too much difficulty? If Looper could get above tree line, the upper regions of the mountain appeared to be quite manageable. SPHP was confident she could reach the summit.

Time to get some answers! Across the street from the waterfront was a hotel. SPHP went in to see what might be learned, while Lupe waited in the G6. Hotel personnel directed SPHP to the Atlin Historical Society a few blocks away. The Historical Society turned out to be a museum. Inside, a couple of old ladies were busy answering tourist’s questions.

So what did you find out, SPHP?

Nothing yet, Loop. Didn’t even talk to them. Might be wrong, but I doubt they know anything at all about getting to Teresa Island or climbing Birch Mountain in there.

What now, then?

I think there was a sign when we came into town about kayak rentals. Not going to take on Atlin Lake in a kayak, but maybe they rent motor boats, too? Let’s go have a look.

Sure enough, there was a sign. Glacier View Cabins, canoe and kayak rentals, 12 km on Warm Bay Road.

Glacier View Cabins seemed worth checking out.

Driving S on Warm Bay Road, SPHP saw no sign of Glacier View Cabins. After going an extra 2 miles, SPHP turned around. On the way back N, there it was! A sign was near a steep driveway on the E side of the road, away from Atlin Lake. SPHP drove up only as far as the first couple of cabins before parking the G6. Lupe hopped out.

Nobody seemed to be around. Lupe and SPHP trudged farther up the steep driveway. At the upper end, a home sat perched on a slope with a fabulous view of Atlin Lake and the Llewellyn Glacier. SPHP rang the doorbell. No answer. Knocking and ringing again didn’t help. On the verge of giving up, Lupe and SPHP were still standing next to the door, when suddenly a man appeared carrying a basket of laundry.

Peter Sidler and his wife, Edith, who wasn’t home at the moment, own and operate Glacier View Cabins. Originally from Switzerland, Peter had been a resident of Atlin for the past 37 years. Although busy, he invited Lupe and SPHP into his home.

Peter had canoes and kayaks available for rent, but said Atlin Lake was too big and dangerous to cross over to Teresa Island in such craft. He also had a motor boat that would have worked, but it was rented out for the next 2 days. The following 2 days it was committed to participation in a search and rescue class.

Peter did share some good information. Over the years, he had climbed Birch Mountain multiple times. There were no trails on Teresa Island, and Peter was skeptical of SPHP’s proposed route from the N. He’d never tried that, but expected the willows would make it tough to get through the forest.

The best route was from the SE, where a major rock slide gets down to within 200 meters of the shore. Staying on the rocks made the climb much easier. Peter had once gone up the NW side of the mountain, but that was more difficult. Yes, Birch Mountain could be climbed in a single day, but it would be a long, hard one.

Although Peter couldn’t get Lupe to Teresa Island in the next few days, he knew who might be able to help. No regular water taxi services were available in Atlin, but Archie Wiggins had tremendous experience in the area and ran charter services with his large boat. Gary Hill might also have a suitable boat available. A call to Mr. Wiggins went unanswered. Probably out on the water with clients.

Armed with phone numbers and instructions on how to find both Wiggins and Hill, Lupe and SPHP departed after thanking Peter for all his help. Returning to Atlin, Lupe dropped by Wiggins’ house, but no one was there. At the Hill household, Gary’s wife, Bobbi, was out in the yard. She was friendly and summoned Gary. Again no luck. Gary’s boat was rented out, and wouldn’t be available for a whole week. He had no other options for Lupe.

That left Archie Wiggins, Lupe’s last and best bet. After dinner, Loop and SPHP returned to his house in Atlin. A vehicle was there now, but knocking on the door and walking around back produced no response. Hmm. Suddenly the front door opened. Barefoot and in an old T-shirt, Archie Wiggins strode out of the house. Peter and Bobbi had both called Archie leaving messages on Lupe’s behalf. So what did SPHP want?

Passage across Atlin Lake both to and from Teresa Island.

Wiggins and his boat were available tomorrow, but his response was surprising.

Don’t really know much about Birch Mountain. We don’t get much call for it. People seldom want to hike Birch. Usually they helicopter over there. Most people I deal with want to go either to Atlin Mountain (6,722 ft.) where there’s a trail, or Cathedral Mountain (6,965 ft.). Cathedral is a gorgeous mountain, a premier destination.

Not familiar with Cathedral. What does it cost to go there? Really came for Birch. Are you willing to take us to Teresa Island?

Are you alone? Just you and the dog?

Yes.

For drop off and pickup, it’s $1,000 to Cathedral. Really a wonderful trip, and a fabulous peak. To Birch, $175. That’s just to the NE shore. More if you want to be dropped off somewhere else.

$175?

Do you have inReach?

I suppose maybe we ought to, but no. I don’t.

We get a lot of intrepid individuals up here, who’ve done some amazing things. My customers know what they’re doing and come prepared. I’m not going to be responsible for anyone who’s going to put themselves in a situation.

With that, without waiting for a response, Archie Wiggins turned and went back into his house. The door banged shut behind him.

That went well.

Dingo feathers! I totally blew it, Looper! The moment he quoted $175 for Teresa Island, I should have asked him what time we could start in the morning. I only hesitated because I was wondering if I ought to ask him about going to the SE side of the island to the rock slide Peter mentioned. Could have done that once we were already on board crossing the lake. He would have been thrilled to charge us more, if we didn’t like the looks of the NE shore.

He still might have asked you about inReach.

Maybe, but maybe not, too. We might well have been on our way! It would have worked out. Wiggins knows what he’s doing, and he was our last and best chance. Can’t believe I let it all fall apart like that.

Too late now. Why don’t we take the helicopter, SPHP? That would be amazing!

That’s right! He did say most people helicopter to Birch.

Discovery Helicopters was close to where Hwy 7 reached Atlin. Right away SPHP ran into Matt, a young, professional helicopter pilot.

Birch Mountain? No problem. Alone? That’s too bad. Price is the same for up to 4 people. We fly you up to an upper ridge. Still a nice hike to the summit from there. Spectacular views! Just tell us what time you want us to meet you again for pickup back at the ridge. Too late in the day to go now, but we can get you there as early as you like in the morning.

Price? Well, 10 minutes flight time one way. Two round trip flights. That’s 40 minutes. Gotta figure some time for loading and unloading. $1,000 will do it. If someone else wants to fly beyond Birch about the same time, we could save you something on that, but don’t think we have anyone lined up at the moment. Drop in again in the morning, if you want to go. We’ll see if that’s changed, and work out the details. We’ll get Lupe up there!

SPHP thanked Matt and returned to the G6.

Are we really going in a helicopter, SPHP?

It’s a great deal with 4 paying passengers. $250.00 each, Canadian. Lucky American Dingoes get a nice discount at the current exchange rate. How are those royalties on your blog doing? Rolling in the dough by now, I hope?

Business has been, umm, steady, SPHP.

Still nothing, aye?

Zippo.

Any book advances or movie rights in play?

The agents just mutter something about “extremely limited market”. By the way, what does “infinitesimal” mean?

In this context, Loopster, it means “Ain’t gonna happen.” How about those endorsements? Anything happening there?

I haven’t really endorsed anything except playing in the mountains and T-bone steaks.

No ad revenue, either, I don’t suppose.

There might be, eventually, if we ever come up with an ad.

I see. Well, doubt I can rustle up 3 additional paying passengers in the next few hours. Atlin is a small place. Probably doesn’t make sense to hang out at the marina tomorrow trying to buy a random ride from some boater to Teresa Island, either, since we’ll actually need to get back, too.

No helicopter ride?

At $250, yes. Absolutely. What an experience! Not at $1,000. We can get more bang for our buck at another mountain. To tell you the truth, I’m sort of used to free, other than our normal travel expenses.

And that was that. Lupe’s Birch Mountain dreams had gone up in smoke. The Carolina Dog left Atlin heading back N on Hwy 7. Sundown found her at a little rest stop along the E shore of Atlin Lake. The lake was almost mirror smooth. The evening so calm, and a little sad.

6 days into what was meant to be Lupe’s grandest Dingo Vacation of 2019, Tangle Ridge had been her only major peakbagging success. Failure at Hudson Bay Mountain. Failure at Birch. She’d traveled the long road N to the Yukon, and wasn’t far from it now, yet it seemed the Carolina Dog was getting nowhere fast.

SPHP might be concerned, but Lupe wasn’t. Tomorrow was another day.