Day 10 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!
6:45 AM, at the Log Cabin trailhead along South Klondike Highway No. 2, British Columbia – Misting, and the wind still blew. Not that cold out, but the world was gray, wet, dreary, the mountains cloaked by low clouds and drifting fog. Lupe had ventured out only once or twice during a blustery night of light rain. So what now?
Wait. At least a little while. Give it a chance. SPHP worked on catching up the trip journal. Lupe snoozed, or watched as water droplets ran in silvery streaks down the windows.
8:00 AM – No change, except that the journal was caught up. Probably wasn’t going to anytime soon, either. A few tiny patches of blue sky had appeared off to the SE, but quickly vanished to be followed by another shot of rain. The Alaskan coast must be socked in. Peak 6053 or Devils Punch Bowl weren’t happening. Not today. May as well forget it.
SPHP turned the key. Lupe was on her way N again! Only a few miles farther inland made an amazing difference. The rain had completely stopped. The situation only continued to improve. The forest fires Lupe had seen E of Tagish Lake yesterday were still burning. Didn’t look like it had rained a drop here. Well, that was easy! Onward!
There were stops along the way. N of Carcross, the American Dingo got to sniff around the old Robinson Roadhouse. In Whitehorse, she waited in the G6 while SPHP got cleaned up at the Takhini Hot Pools. She had to wait some more as fuel and supplies were purchased. Loop did her best to help devour half a barbecued chicken, and enjoyed considerable success at it.
However, Lupe didn’t really get to escape the G6 again until she was well N of Whitehorse at Fox Lake. The Carolina Dog promptly made such a ruckus about squirrels, SPHP was afraid of getting tossed out of the campground before being able to fill the water jugs.
Freedom at Fox Lake! Photo looks S.Here’s another look at Fox Lake, but the real excitement is back in the trees over by the campground! Photo looks NNW.
Much of the day had already been frittered away by the time Loopster reached Five Finger Rapids on the Yukon River N of Carmacks. SPHP stopped at a big pullout on the W side of North Klondike Highway No. 2. The American Dingo was thrilled with a chance to redeem herself after her squirrel escapades, and escape the G6 again.
Lupe arrives at the Five Ringer Rapids Recreation Site N of Carmacks.
An observation deck along the edge of the highway pullout overlooked the Yukon River valley and Five Finger Rapids. Plaques told about the dangers to boats and rafts Five Finger Rapids had posed back in the days of the Klondike Gold Rush, and discussed the geology of the Five Finger islands. The navigation problems had ultimately been resolved by blasting away the underwater hazards in the river channel.
One of the plaques showed a map of a 2 km long trail that went down to the Yukon River near Five Finger Rapids. Lupe would enjoy that!
The Yukon River and Five Finger Rapids from the observation deck up by the highway. Photo looks SW.A brief overview of the Five Finger Rapids area, plus a map of the trail to the rapids.Plaque about the geology of Five Finger Rapids.
Lupe was about ready to head down a long stairway leading to the trail, when suddenly a voice said “There’s that dog we saw at Atlin Lake!”. And that was how Lupe and SPHP got to meet Fred and Teresa Reitsma.
Fred and Teresa were from Smithers, British Columbia. Having recently sold the Smithers Sausage Factory, which Fred had started way back in 1984, a month ago Fred and Teresa had purchased a beautiful, recent model 5th wheel camper. They were now on their very first trip with it on the way to Dawson City. They planned to meet up with friends there, and do some gold panning.
After a pleasant chat, Lupe and SPHP started down the long wooden stairway leading to the Five Finger Rapids trail.
This way to Five Finger Rapids!
At the base of the stairs, a nice level path went through the forest.
If you can manage the stairs, the rest is easy!
A wooden walkway went over a damp spot. Lupe didn’t necessarily need it, but the walkway was a nice convenience for SPHP.
Think I’ll just cool my paws off instead!
Near the trail’s end, an opening to the R provided an opportunity to get to cliffs overlooking the Yukon River. Lupe could see the downstream end of Five Finger Rapids from here.
Loop by the downstream end of Five Finger Rapids.
The trail climbed a little hill before ending at a huge deck overlooking the Yukon River and Five Finger Rapids.
This big deck is at the end of the Five Finger Rapids trail! Photo looks SW.Five Finger Rapids from the deck at the end of the trail. Photo looks NW.The fabled Yukon River from the deck. Photo looks upstream (SW).
The observation deck had plaques telling about the Klondike Gold Rush days, and navigation issues on the Yukon River.Voices! Fred and Teresa appeared. They had come to see Five Finger Rapids, too. The more, the merrier! While the Reitsmas took their turn on the big observation deck, Lupe circled around it to get a bit closer to the cliffs upstream of Five Finger Rapids.
Kind of hard to believe we are actually here along the fabled Yukon River, isn’t it?This is the upstream beginning of Five Finger Rapids. Photo looks WNW.
Fred and Teresa joined Lupe and SPHP on the way back to the trailhead. Once there, the Reitsmas were more than willing to pose with Lupe at the Five Finger Rapids sign.
Checking out another view of Five Finger Rapids on the way back to the trailhead. Photo looks NW.Lupe with new friends and fellow adventurers Fred and Teresa Reitsma, until recently the long time owner-operators of the Smithers Sausage Factory.
It was getting on toward dinnertime. Fred and Teresa graciously invited SPHP to join them in their 5th wheel camper for hamburgers and home-grown peas, carrots and potatoes. Naturally, SPHP accepted.
Lupe had her Alpo, then dozed contentedly in the G6 while Fred, Teresa and SPHP had a tasty, nutritious meal. The evening was spent relaxing and chatting in the beautiful 5th wheel camper. Fred had once bicycled clear across Canada! Teresa was originally from Red Deer in Alberta, a community which has grown tremendously. They both loved Smithers and the outdoors.
It was a fun time! Though the sun sets late in the Yukon, it was getting low by the time SPHP returned to the G6. On the road once more, Lupe didn’t get an awful lot farther before stopping for the night. A sign said the American Dingo had reached the E edge of Beringia.
Yukon River at sunset, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-13-18
Day 9 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!
Start: 7:54 AM, 50°F, Monarch Mountain trailhead 3.7 km S of Atlin on Warm Bay Road – Yesterday the trailhead had been a busy place, but no one else was around this early on a Sunday morning. The lucky Carolina Dog was going to have Monarch Mountain(4,723 ft.) all to herself! The trail began right across Warm Bay Road from the huge parking lot.
Lupe about to set off for Monarch Mountain on a Sunday morning.
The Monarch Mountain trail started off climbing gradually through open forest. Before long, it crossed a driveway. A few openings in the forest provided early views of Atlin Lake. Cabins and vacation homes could be seen nearby tucked in among the trees.
Exploring the Monarch Mountain trail.An early view of Birch Mountain on Teresa Island in Atlin Lake. A couple of cabins are visible down in the forest. Photo looks SW.
The trail soon came to the driveway a second time. This time it followed the driveway for before returning to the forest. Lupe eventually reached a wooden bench at a small clearing. She came to a second bench a little farther up the trail.
We’re already at the second bench here! Nice place to rest with a view of Atlin Lake.Atlin Lake from the 2nd bench. Birch Mountain on the L. Photo looks SW.
Beyond the second bench, the trail steepened and stayed in a thick forest which provided no views. After a considerable climb, the forest finally began to thin out. Bushes started to dominate as Lupe reached the subalpine. A small, open ridge appeared NE of the trail.
Climbing this first ridge, the American Dingo was rewarded with sweeping views of Atlin Lake from Birch Mountain(6,765 ft.) to the SW all the way N to Mount Minto(6,913 ft.). For the first time, Lupe could also see Surprise Lake off to the NE.
At the first open ridge above treeline. Atlin Mountain (L) is in view beyond Atlin Lake. The village of Atlin is along the near shore beyond Lupe. Photo looks NW.Atlin Lake and Birch Mountain (Center) from the first open ridge. The Monarch Mountain trail is seen along the L edge. Photo looks SW.Looking NE toward Surprise Lake.
Now that she was effectively above treeline, Lupe had views nearly all the time. Occasional steep stretches still existed along the trail, but the overall rate of climb was reduced. Loop followed the trail S along the W edge of Monarch Mountain going from one high point to the next.
To the E, the terrain was hilly and rumpled, still dotted with scattered stands of conifers. Many areas were thickly covered with bushes, but there were large areas of open grassy ground, too.
Looking SSE toward hilly ground ahead.
20 minutes from the first open ridge, Lupe reached the next significant high point. This higher ridge overlooked a sizable drop into a valley to the S. A small tarn could be seen in this valley. On the far side, a large ravine led up toward Monarch Mountain’s huge N summit ridge.
Lupe reaches the next significant high point. Part of Birch Mountain is on the R. Photo looks SW.Looking ESE toward Monarch Mountain’s N summit ridge. The high point on the L is where the trail ends.Lupe had come up the territory seen in the foreground. Mount Minto (L) is off in the distance beyond faintly visible Atlin Lake. Photo looks NNW.Loopster on the second significant high point, which was a most scenic spot. Atlin Lake in the background. Photo looks WSW.
After enjoying the fabulous views available from this high point, Lupe made a steep rocky descent into the valley. After passing E of the tarn, she immediately began regaining the elevation she had just lost, as the Monarch Mountain trail headed SE up the big ravine.
Looking down on the valley to the S. The Monarch Mountain trail drops into this valley passing E (L) of the small tarn. It then continues up the drainage (Center) on the far side angling gradually toward the L. Photo looks S.Down by the nearly dried up tarn. There really wasn’t much left of it. Photo looks WSW.Heading up the next drainage on the way to Monarch Mountain’s N summit ridge. Photo looks SE.
Partway up, the ravine became rocky. The Monarch Mountain trail more or less faded away. Lupe kept climbing. She got beyond the rocky stretch, but did not find the trail again. Didn’t really matter, anyway, since Monarch Mountain’s N summit ridge wasn’t much farther. Loop soon reached the high point at the SW end of the ridge.
Lupe reaches the high point at the SW end of Monarch Mountain’s N summit ridge. The ravine she had followed to get here is seen on the R. Photo looks WSW.Looking NW now from the SW high point of the N summit ridge. The second significant high point Lupe came to is in view L of Center by Atlin Lake. The drainage she came up is on the L. Mount Minto (R) in the distance.Atlin Lake from the N summit ridge’s SW high point. Photo looks SSW.
The topo map shows Monarch Mountain has two large, distinct summit ridges. Both are hundreds of feet long. Like the S summit ridge, the N ridge which Lupe had just reached was oriented NE/SW. The top of the N ridge was a broad, rolling territory covered mostly by sparse vegetation, and scattered rock outcroppings of moderate size. From the high point near the SW end, Lupe could see two more high points off to the NE, both clearly somewhat higher than where she was now.
So as soon as the Carolina Dog was done taking in the views from the SW high point, she headed NE. In a shallow drainage full of low bushes, she came across the Monarch Mountain trail again.
On the way to the NE high points (Center) of the N summit ridge, Lupe rediscovered the Monarch Mountain trail in the slightly lower green area toward the L. Photo looks NE.
The trail ultimately ended near the high point farthest N of the two high points at the NE end of the summit ridge. At the top of a rock formation, a thick white stick 3 feet high was propped up amid a modest cairn. A survey pin was close by, too. Apparently this N high point where Lupe was now was commonly regarded as the summit of Monarch Mountain.
At the N high point at the NE end of the N summit ridge. The Monarch Mountain trail ended nearby. Surprise Lake is in the distance on the R. Photo looks NE.Survey pin at the N high point.
Lupe had her best view of Surprise Lake to the NE from here. However, this end of the summit ridge was farther away from Atlin Lake than the SW high point, not to mention everywhere else Lupe had been to coming up the mountain. Consequently, the views to the SW toward Atlin Lake weren’t as impressive as what Lupe had already seen, although she still had a tremendous view to the NW.
Atlin Lake from the N high point. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.Looking WSW. Part of Birch Mountain on the L.Atlin Lake (L) and Birch Mountain (R). Photo looks SSW.
The day had started out sunny and comfortably warm, but now the sky was overcast. Definitely colder up here, only 40°F. A 10 mph S breeze felt chilly. Lupe was in the mood to lounge around for a bit, so she did. SPHP put on a couple more layers.
Taking a break on Monarch Mountain. Surprise Lake on the L. Photo looks NE.The summit of Atlin Mountain (L) is in the clouds. The second significant ridge Lupe visited is in the foreground L of Center. Town of Atlin on the R. Photo looks W.Atlin Lake and Mount Minto (R). Photo looks NNW.
The S high point at the NE end of the N summit ridge wasn’t far away. It looked about as high as the N high point where Lupe was resting. When Loop felt ready to move on, she went over to check it out, too.
The S high point at the NE end of the N summit ridge is the rocky knob a little R of Center. Beyond it Monarch Mountain’s S summit ridge is in view. Photo looks S.On the S high point at the NE end of Monarch Mountain’s N summit ridge. The top of Atlin Mountain (R) is still in the clouds. The Monarch Mountain trail comes up the green area seen on the R. Photo looks W.Looking back at the N high point (R) where the cairn with the white stick is from the S high point. Photo looks N.Looking SW along the N summit ridge. Birch Mountain in the distance.
Both of the two high points at the NE end of the N summit ridge were contained within a 1440 meter (4,725 foot) contour on the topo map. The map showed two more small areas contained within 1440 meter contours on Monarch Mountain. They were over at opposite ends of the S summit ridge. Lupe needed to visit both of these areas to complete her tour of potential locations of Monarch Mountain’s true summit.
The S summit ridge was still a good little march away. To get over there, Lupe headed SW back along the N ridge looking for an easy way down to the intervening low ground.
Though it would have been nice, Lupe found absolutely no trails heading S. Below the high ground of the N summit ridge, dense stands of bushes covered much of the territory the American Dingo needed to cross to get to the S ridge. The bushes were only a few feet high, but that was still higher than Lupe’s head, and they formed a vast nearly impenetrable thicket for her.
Since no trail seemed to exist, Lupe finally had to leave the N summit ridge following SPHP, who tried to guide her along a course avoiding the problematic bushes as much as possible. This worked to some extent, but Loop still had to bound and crash her way through the bushes part of the time, which was scratchy, exhausting work.
In a grassy spot on the way to Monarch Mountain’s S summit ridge. Photo looks SE.
Near the S summit ridge, Lupe crossed some completely bare ground, all that remained of a dried up tarn. Beyond it, a steep climb of the S ridge ensued. Considerable success avoiding bushes made for a relatively quick climb. Loop was soon up on top where bushes were scarce and no longer an issue.
Lupe had gained the S ridge near it’s SW high point, so she went there first. Although no trails had come this way, a large, low cairn made of many rocks sat at the high point. After having dealt with so many blasted bushes, all the American Dingo wanted to do was curl up by the big cairn and have a rest. SPHP furnished her with water and Taste of the Wild.
Lupe relaxes by the big cairn at the S summit ridge’s SW high point. The NE high point of this ridge is the distant rocky knob seen at Center. Photo looks NE.Looking back toward Monarch Mountain’s N summit ridge. Photo looks N.
The views from the SW summit of the S summit ridge were the best yet! A large portion of the S half of Atlin Lake was in sight. A range of snowy mountains was visible far beyond the lake. Lupe could even see part of the Llewellyn Glacier.
A much smaller cairn sat a little farther down the slope SW of the SW high point. Lupe went down to it. The views from this cairn were the best from anywhere on Monarch Mountain(4,723 ft.). Here, Lupe had a panoramic view of Atlin Lake all the way from Mount Minto in the N clear down to Teresa Island and beyond. The far off snowy mountains and Llewellyn Glacier were all on display, too.
At the small cairn SW of Monarch Mountain’s SW high point of the S summit ridge. Atlin Lake and the S end of Teresa Island (R) are in view. Photo looks SSW.Birch Mountain (R) on Teresa Island in Atlin Lake. Photo looks SW.Zoomed in on the distant snowy mountains. The Llewellyn Glacier is in sight beyond part of Teresa Island (R). Photo looks SSW.Atlin Lake (R). Photo looks S with lots of help from the telephoto lens.From the small cairn, Lupe has a panoramic view of Atlin Lake all the way to Mount Minto (R) in the N. Photo looks NWLooking SSW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.The Llewellyn Glacier is partially hidden by Teresa Island. Photo looks SSW.
Only one high point remained that Lupe hadn’t checked out. It took her less than 10 minutes to get to the NE high point of the S summit ridge once she left the SW high point. The topo map showed an elevation of 1,442 meters (4,731 ft.) here, which was the highest noted anywhere on Monarch Mountain, but specific elevations weren’t shown for most of the other high points.
Which was the true summit? All the high points on the N and S summit ridges were visible from one another, but they were so far apart, and so close to the same elevation, that SPHP couldn’t tell for certain. Only the SW high point on the N summit ridge was clearly lower than the others.
In any case, Lupe had been to all the contenders. Whether this NE high point of the S summit ridge was actually it or not, it was now certain the American Dingo had been to the true summit of Monarch Mountain somewhere along the way. SPHP enthusiastically congratulated Lupe on her fine peakbagging success of this unique and beautiful mountain.
At the NE high point of the S summit ridge. This was the last high point Lupe visited on Monarch Mountain, completing her tour of all the possible locations of the true summit. This is also the point with the highest elevation actually noted on the topo map (1,442 meters) anywhere on Monarch Mountain. Photo looks SE.Atlin Lake from the NE high point of the S summit ridge. Photo looks SSW.The Llewellyn Glacier with max assistance from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSW.
The return trip was a wonderful, happy time. Loopster roamed as she pleased. Beauty was everywhere, on scales both vast and small.
Hardy tundra plants on the way back down the S summit ridge. The brilliant colors and intricate designs never cease to amaze.
Lupe had to go over the SW end of Monarch Mountain’s N summit ridge one more time to get back to the Monarch Mountain trail.
On the N summit ridge again on the way back to the trail. Photo looks NNW.
By the time Lupe was back to the G6 at the trailhead (3:40 PM, 67°F), the day had warmed up considerably. Before leaving the area, Lupe and SPHP returned to the village of Atlin for a picnic by Atlin Lake next to the Tarahne. Lupe got to wade in the cold, clear waters.
Then it was N on Hwy 7. Lupe was on to new adventures! Atlin and this happy day on Monarch Mountain were left behind. SPHP stopped again at the bluff where Lupe had seen Atlin Lake and Mount Minto(6,913 ft.) for the first time. The old man who had been sitting here yesterday afternoon and his van were gone.
Mount Minto (R) and Atlin Lake from the same bluff Lupe had first seen them from only yesterday. Photo looks SSW.N end of Atlin Lake. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.
At the junction with Hwy 6, SPHP turned L (SW). Lupe didn’t stop until she was a little SE of Carcross along South Klondike Highway No. 2 for a look at what SPHP thought at the time was Nares Mountain(5,833 ft.), but was actually Caribou Mountain(6,400 ft.).
Caribou Mountain beyond Nares Lake from SE of Carcross. Photo looks N.
Continuing S, Lupe saw smoke and occasionally actual towering orange flames from forest fires on the E side of Tagish Lake.
Forest fires had been burning for a week on the E side of Tagish Lake. Lupe still saw huge flames flare up now and then when she stopped for a look. Photo looks E.
The pleasant drive from Atlin had been sunny and warm. However, it now looked cloudy to the S.
Looking S along Tagish Lake. Cloudy skies were ahead.
The plan had been to go S all the way to the International Falls pullout near the Alaska border. However, by the time Lupe was S of Tutshi Lake, the temperature had dropped to 50°F. A fierce wind was blowing hard, and fog was in the process of swallowing Log Cabin Mountain.
A front was moving in. Instead of going any farther, Lupe and SPHP stopped just beyond the railroad tracks at the Log Cabin trailhead. Maybe it was best to wait here, and see what tomorrow would bring?
On Monarch Mountain, British Columbia, Canada 8-12-18
Voices! Fred and Teresa appeared. They had come to see Five Finger Rapids, too. The more, the merrier! While the Reitsmas took their turn on the big observation deck, Lupe circled around it to get a bit closer to the cliffs upstream of Five Finger Rapids.
