Arctic Circle – Page 2 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

On the Dempster Highway to Eagle Plains, the Arctic Circle & Northwest Territories, Canada (8-17-18 & 8-18-18)

Part 2 of Day 14 & Part 1 of Day 15 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

8-17-18, 1:20 PM, 53°F, km 224.5 – From Churchward Hill (2,871 ft.), Lupe had seen that, on the way to the Eagle Plain plateau, the Dempster Highway went N closely paralleling the Ogilvie River. However, out on the heavily forested floodplain beyond the last of the Ogilvie Mountains, the river was seldom in sight.

Approaching the Eagle Plain plateau, the highway curved NE and soon began an impressive climb up Seven Mile Hill. The Ogilvie River was now being left behind, but from the edge of the giant escarpment, Lupe could see it again off to the SE. Somewhere beyond vision E of here, the Ogilvie would join forces with the Blackstone to form the Peel River.

At km 259.0, the Dempster Highway reached its high point along the SE edge of the Eagle Plain escarpment 1,000 feet above the valley. A huge pullout was here, plus the added convenience of an outhouse. Lupe had reached Ogilvie Ridge.

Ogilvie Ridge was a popular spot. As many as 6 or 7 vehicles were present at any given time. The day was still heavily overcast, and the cold S wind still blew. People came and went quickly. In no rush to get back out into the wind, Lupe and SPHP waited. More than 20 minutes went by, before a moment arrived when no one else was around.

Lupe and SPHP left the G6 to experience the gray, wind-swept solitude of Ogilvie Ridge.

At **Ogilvie Ridge**, km 259.0 of the Dempster Highway.

The Ogilvie River valley stretched from the S to the E. Beyond the broad, green valley, rose distant gray peaks of the Taiga Range. Churchward Hill had provided far superior views of the Ogilvie River, but for being right along the highway, Ogilvie Ridge wasn’t a bad vantage point at all.

The **Ogilvie River valley** from **Ogilvie Ridge**. Photo looks SE.

Lupe sniffed around in the bushes, while SPHP perused several colorful displays about the geological history of the region.

2:58 PM, 47°F – Continuing N from Ogilvie Ridge, the Dempster Highway kept climbing. The road wound around on big hills and ridges. This first part of the Eagle Plain plateau didn’t seem much like a plateau at all. Deep valleys flanked barren hills, but the hills were rounded, not flat.

3:22 PM – Shortly after passing what seemed to be the highway’s highest point in this region, a small pullout appeared. The long climb out of the Ogilvie River valley was over. Lupe stopped for a quick sniff. The Taiga Range of the Ogilvie Mountains could still be seen back to the SE. Ahead, the Dempster Highway kept winding N along a series of lower hills.

Probably wouldn’t have been too hard to take a stroll up to the top of the hill the pullout was on, but Loopster didn’t do it. Having already made it up Churchward Hill this morning, traveling in the comfort of the G6 on a windy, gray afternoon had its charms.

The now distant **Taiga Range** of the **Ogilvie Mountains** from near the high point of the Dempster Highway at the S end of the **Eagle Plain plateau**. Photo looks SE.

The Dempster Highway winds away across the **Eagle Plain plateau**. Photo looks N.

Lupe and SPHP kept going. The highway wound crazily around in what felt like a desperate attempt to stay up on a strip of hilly high ground. Up and down, this way and that, on and on!

Mountains faded away. Hills and ridges shrank. Often only the highway could be seen. Broad swaths of the spindly, Dr. Seuss trees of the boreal forest were clear cut away from both sides of the road. In their place, bushes thrived.

Despite the overcast sky, the road had been dry, or nearly so, ever since Churchward Hill. At km 335, though, suddenly the Dempster Highway was wet. Within minutes, SPHP drove into rain. The highway became slick and rough. Potholes were brimming with water.

There was supposed to be a viewpoint at km 347.0 where the Richardson Mountains could be seen for the first time. SPHP missed it, but did stop at a wet pullout that appeared a little farther on. Lupe got out for a look around, but no mountains were in sight. A vast, rolling plain stretched away into the fog.

5:38 PM, 44°F, Eagle Plains Hotel & Service Center, km 369.0 – It hadn’t been much farther to the first and only fuel available in the entire 369 km (229 miles) since way back at the start of the Dempster Highway. The Eagle Plains Hotel & Service Center, situated on a hill, probably offers fine views on a clear day, but Lupe arrived amid rain and fog.

With no clue as to how far it might be to the next gas station, a fuel stop was an absolute necessity. Eagle Plains was a full service station. Before SPHP could pump any gas, a relatively young man appeared. That was his job. Fill’er up?

Yes, please!

Asking was a mere formality. The attendant already knew the answer. When it’s 229 miles between opportunities, does anyone skimp? Way up here in the Yukon, it’s a helluva walk back to civilization. Conceivable that stroll might get a mite chilly, too, any time of year.

SPHP didn’t bother asking the price. Whatever it was, one just paid it, and felt fortunate to have the opportunity to do so. The receipt would reveal what a fabulous bargain SPHP had just made.

31.52 liters at $1.65 Canadian per liter came to $52.00 Canadian. That was the same as $39.80 US for 8.328 gallons, or $4.78 US per gallon at the current exchange rate.

Eh, not much worse than going to California, Looper!

Loop spotted a muster point nearby. Was that a requirement? SPHP didn’t know. No one else was mustering, but the American Dingo put in an appearance, just in case.

Nothing happened, though. Nobody came to muster with her, or even say what all the mustering was supposed to be about. Maybe it had been a long summer? Perhaps the local Canadians were sick and tired of mustering on these endless, blistering hot August days?

Loop mustering on yet another baking hot **Eagle Plains** summer day.

However, Loop didn’t get totally ignored in Eagle Plains. A doorman, snappily dressed all in black, came prancing jauntily over from the Eagle Plains Hotel. When he didn’t welcome the Carolina Dog to Eagle Plains, but instead leapt right up onto the G6, and started demanding rewards merely for the privilege of parking in the muddy parking lot, Lupe was pretty put out. The were-puppy appeared and barked ferociously at him. Of all the nerve!

Since Eagle Plains was the only civilized spot for such a long distance, SPHP felt that even if the doorman’s demands were outrageous, perhaps it was best to at least toss him a few raisins and cashews. The doorman was evidently satisfied. He eventually flew off, defusing the whole Dingo/doorman confrontation.

Dressed all in black, the Eagle Plains doorman comes over from the hotel to demand payment for the privilege of parking in the parking lot.

Pretty cheeky to hop right up on a G6 defended by a ferocious were-puppy, but it paid off! SPHP gave in, and bought him off with raisins and cashews.

The Dempster Highway crosses the Eagle River 9 km N of Eagle Plains. Despite its soaring name, the river wasn’t particularly inspiring. Murky brown water in what amounted to a big ditch. Since it was raining, the Eagle River hardly seemed worth stopping for. SPHP paused on the bridge, but only long enough for Lupe to get a look from the G6.

The **Eagle River** was more of a ditch full of muddy water than a scenic highlight.

6:35 PM, 44°F, km 405.5 – Other than the commemorative sign, there wasn’t much more to see here than at the Eagle River. Nevertheless, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was back! Lupe had reached the Arctic Circle again for the first time in nearly a year. It was a glorious moment! A moment destined to be prolonged.

The Arctic Circle featured a huge parking area with two entrances off the Dalton Highway. Two man-made attractions sat along the border of the muddy lot – the commemorative sign, and an outhouse. Of course, the big attraction was the invisible one, the unseen Arctic Circle itself. This was the edge of the true Arctic! Everything to the N was part of the fabled frozen land of the Midnight Sun.

Midnight Sun? The Carolina Dog hadn’t seen the sun all day. Rain, wind, fog! Beneath a leaden sky, it was darker and seemed later than it really was. Who knew what lay ahead? The highway had been greasy slick coming up out of the Eagle River valley. Rough and full of potholes after that. Maybe this was far enough? Maybe Loop ought to spend the night right here at the Arctic Circle?

As the evening wore on, dense fog turned the world a featureless gray. The rain increased in intensity. Traffic ceased. The windows fogged over. Dinner. A warm blankie. To the steady beat of rain on the roof, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood settled in for a snooze.

One of the displays – the most interesting one with a map.

At the start of the Land of the Midnight Sun.

Home for the night. The G6 did get moved farther from the sign, in case anyone else happened by.

8-18-18, 4:17 AM, km 405.5, the Arctic Circle – Light out, kind of. Still raining, still foggy. The growing light did nothing to dispel the gloom. Every time SPHP had woken up, it had been raining, not lightly, but steady. How much had fallen in the past 10 hours? Half an inch an hour, easy. Maybe double that. A regular monsoon!

What was the Dempster going to be like? A sea of mud? Maybe the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood wasn’t going any farther? Maybe she was stuck here, unable even to retreat? The poor G6 wasn’t exactly a Jeep, even if SPHP treated it like one.

Nothing to do about it now, though, except sit tight. The G6 wasn’t going anywhere. Not until SPHP saw similar vehicles out on the Dempster. Better safe here than sunk to the axles somewhere in the literal middle of nowhere.

5:54 AM – Brighter out, still socked in with fog, but the rain had finally let up. Only a light mist now. A few other vehicles had spent the night here. None had budged yet. Not a hint of activity. Certainly none on the highway. Lupe needed out. She made a quick tour of the area. From close to the commemorative sign, a couple of picnic tables sat in a flat area down an embankment. Bet those get a lot of use!

The rain started in again. Back to the G6! May as well snooze some more. “Well-rested” was the predicted future state of things.

The new day bore an uncanny resemblance to the old.

The Arctic Circle picnic area was deserted. SPHP suspected this was its natural state.

9:45 AM – Rain, rain, rain! Wind, too. It hadn’t rained all the time, but did more often than not. A flurry of activity had occurred around 9:00 AM, though. Two big white pick-up trucks started it off, charging by out on the Dempster Highway around 8:40 AM. A green van then appeared out of the N sending up a gigantic spray as it encountered long chains of pothole lakes upon the road.

Other vehicles came and went. People pulled in to use the rest room, or take a look at the commemorative sign. None of their vehicles, however, were as small and pathetic as the intrepid G6. The wait continued.

*You know, SPHP, if you’ve got such a thing for invisible circles, maybe we could try the Tropic of Cancer next time around?*

11:28 AM, 44°F – Alright! Still rainy, still foggy, but it must be OK out there. After a lull, a parade of vehicles had come by. Most were huge pickups, or other massive high-clearance 4WD’s of one sort or another. However, a number of sport utility vehicles, a small tour bus, and even a motor home had been by, too. And just lately, a couple of passenger cars and two motorcycles.

A guy came along on a bicycle, and disappeared over the embankment down toward the picnic tables. That was it! The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was on her way. Going N, too, not S!

It was slow going, but the Dempster Highway wasn’t nearly as muddy as SPHP had feared, as long as one stayed away from the shoulders. The road was rough, though, and full of potholes, each an abyss of unknown depth. The G6 crept along enduring one jarring jolt and drenching spray of dirty water after another, but Lupe was on move again.

There were places where the road was much smoother, pothole free, but they didn’t last long. Amazingly, only 10 minutes from the Arctic Circle, SPHP drove out of the rain. The windshield wipers had to be kept on to sweep away the filthy water still spraying up from the road. However, the fog had lifted a little, and it was possible to see.

Hills were ahead. Lupe was getting closer to the Richardson Mountains. The land was changing. What could be seen below the cloud cover was increasingly beautiful.

Loop out on a nice smooth stretch of highway after SPHP drove out of the rain.

**Foothills of the Richardson Mountains** are ahead. The highway stayed W of them.

The land became more beautiful as Lupe continued N.

12:38 PM, km 445.8 at the Rock River campground – After following a rip-roaring creek down to a low forested area, Lupe reached the Rock River campground at a bend in the Dempster Highway. As SPHP read the map, the campground was not actually on the Rock River, but on White Fox Creek, a major tributary.

It had taken an hour to drive 40 km (25 miles) to get here from the Arctic Circle. The campground, though open, was deserted. Time for lunch, and this appeared to be a great spot for a break from the rough ride N. While SPHP prepared a meal, Loopster made a thrilling discovery. This Arctic forest was full of squirrels!

So, Rock River campground became an instant hit. After lunch, Lupe and SPHP took a stroll around the entire campground loop. Like all the other streams that had been seen from the highway on the drive here, White Fox Creek was full bank to bank, practically at flood stage.

Lupe was more interested in sniffing eagerly from one promising tree to the next. To her everlasting delight, she frequently found a bundle of joy chattering away high above her. For a deserted campground, between the American Dingo and the squirrels, Rock River was a noisy place.

Relaxing at Rock River campground shortly before striking it rich with squirrels.

**White Fox Creek** was running high, full bank to bank.

2:19 PM, 48°F – No doubt the Carolina Dog would have preferred to stay at the Rock River campground a while longer to stake her claim in the great 2018 Yukon Squirrel Rush. And perhaps that would have been the better choice, but Lupe’s journey N continued.

Even before reaching the Rock River campground, the highway had been heading N along the W flank of the Richardson Mountains. Sadly, the mountains were completely lost in the clouds. Loopster had already gone by Mount Hare (4,070 ft.) without even seeing it.

Climbing out of the White Fox Creek valley, the Dempster Highway came to a high, rolling prairie. Large hills and ridges were to the NW, the still unseen Richardson Mountains to the E. This was a gorgeous area!

N of the Rock Creek campground, the Dempster Highway led to a gorgeous rolling prairie with big hills and ridges to the NW. Photo looks NNW.

The Richardson Mountains lie hidden to the R (E) of the highway. Photo looks NE.

Lupe had a few peakbagging candidates in the Richardson Mountains along in here, but none were worth an attempt given the weather. No point in putting out any big effort just to see nothing, and risk getting lost in the fog. Maybe the weather would be better on the return trip? Lupe could do her peakbagging then, SPHP reasoned.

A typical stretch of the Dempster Highway W of the Richardson Mountains.

Onward! The Dempster Highway started curving NE and climbing. Up, up! Views of the beautiful highlands became more spectacular, faded to gray, then vanished. The road wound ever higher past hillsides torn up during recent road construction. The highway leveled out. A parking lot appeared on the S side of the road. SPHP stopped.

3:11 PM, km 465.0 – Outside the G6, dense fog raced by driven onward by a 40 mph gale roaring out of the W. An uninviting, unforgiving world. This was it! Wright Pass (3,133 ft.), end of the Yukon Territory!

Incredibly, E of Wright Pass was an even more remote and mysterious land. A land neither Lupe nor SPHP had ever seen, or even been close to, before. Abandoning the G6, buffeted by the chill wind, together Loop and SPHP walked to the edge of the unknown to experience, for the first time, the Northwest Territories.

When she got there, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood couldn’t see a thing.

At **Wright Pass**, border of the Yukon Territory and Northwest Territories, Canada 8-18-18

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

The Dempster Highway Travelogue Guide

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Cathedral Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-17-17)

Day 18 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

6:18 AM – Light out, sort of. Lupe sniffed around near the G6 in a thick fog. It had rained bunches yesterday evening and most of the night. No rain now, just this gray gloom. The air was dead calm. Little hope existed that conditions would change anytime soon. May as well snooze a few more hours.

8:44 AM – Awake again. The Carolina Dog was starting the morning off right, barking at a squirrel in the spruce trees nearby. Still foggy, but the fog was thin enough now so that a bright spot revealed the position of the sun. Slightly encouraging, but nothing to get excited about yet.

In the meantime, why not get a photo of Looper by the big red metal gate she’d gone by yesterday to start her fabulous adventure to Caribou Mountain (3,179 ft.)? As long as the fog persisted, there wasn’t much else to do anyway. SPHP joined Lupe outside the G6.

The foggy morning after climbing **Caribou Mountain**, Lupe stands near the red metal gate she’d gone past yesterday to start that adventure. The G6 had been, and still was, parked close by. This gate provides access to the Alaska oil pipeline service road, and is located on the W side of the Dalton Highway about a mile S of the Kanuti River. Photo looks W.

Lupe was still standing next to the red gate, when suddenly the sky brightened so much it actually seemed sunny out. Overhead, the fog was tinged with blue! Maybe this was only a ground fog that would burn off before long?

9:31 AM – Well, well! It was true! The early morning’s gloom had only been a ground fog after all. First, a tiny patch of blue sky appeared. It had spread with incredible speed. Within only 15 minutes, 80% of the sky was clear and bright. Sort of amazing to watch! This Arctic weather was so different from back home. Suddenly, things were looking up for Loopster! Adventure was back in today’s forecast now!

The fog had only been a ground fog. The morning sun was burning it away at a tremendous pace. Suddenly, adventure was in today’s forecast for Lupe!

And then, unbelievably, the whole process reversed itself. The sun had only been shining on the dewy tundra for a few minutes, when the additional warmth caused moisture from last night’s rain to evaporate, making the air more humid again. As quickly as the fog had burned away, it reformed. Dense fog engulfed the land again. The sun no longer existed.

Huh. Weird. Really strange. Lupe had never seen anything quite like that before. Now what?

Apparently anything at all might happen today. Since Lupe had finished the adventures planned for around here, she might as well continue N. She would just have to be flexible, and see how things worked out.

The fog and sun continued their battle as SPHP drove N. Lupe’s first stop was at an important landmark, one that was even more significant since Lupe had recently become the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood after climbing AB Mountain (5,036 ft.) near Skagway 10 days ago. At milepost 115.5 on the Dalton Highway, Lupe reached the Arctic Circle.

Lupe reaches the **Arctic Circle** at milepost 115.5 along the Dalton Highway. She had been here in 2016, too, but this time she arrived as the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood!

The sun had been winning its struggle with the fog, so Lupe and SPHP stuck around at the Arctic Circle for a while. There was both a picnic ground and campground here. SPHP used one of the picnic tables to prepare a meal. Meanwhile, Lupe was entertained barking at squirrels in the forest.

Once the meal was consumed, Lupe continued N on the Dalton Highway. It felt so incredible to be back in the Arctic again! The drive through mile after mile of Arctic wilderness was like a dream. Loop stopped briefly at Gobbler’s Knob (milepost 132) for a view of the Brooks Range, which she was rapidly approaching.

Even before reaching milepost 160, Cathedral Mountain (3,350 ft.) came into view. It hadn’t rained at all on Loop yet this morning, but a shower had passed through here not long before. The pavement was all wet. Conditions were admittedly a bit iffy, and it was already getting a little late in the day for starting such a big adventure, but maybe Lupe could still climb Cathedral Mountain?

Only one person who uses Peakbagger.com had ever climbed Cathedral Mountain, and that had been more than 22 years ago. Richard Carey had been there on 7-29-95. Fortunately, Carey had written a concise trip report full of useful information. Carey had mentioned a small pullout with room for only one or two cars at about milepost 168.5. Nearing the area, SPHP slowed down to look for it.

SPHP didn’t see any small pullout, but there was a really large gravel pullout on the NW side of the Dalton Highway about where Carey had said to look. Maybe things had changed in 22 years? Certainly possible. SPHP parked the G6. The American Dingo shot out eager for action. Things looked a bit iffy. Cathedral Mountain was right across the Dalton Highway from here, but the sky overhead was looking mighty gray.

**Cathedral Mountain** from the Dalton Highway near milepost 168.5. Photo looks SE.

All was not gloom and doom, however. A mix of blue sky and puffy clouds was off to the SW, and seemed to be heading this way. Loop and SPHP were both in favor of taking a chance on Cathedral Mountain. SPHP got everything ready, and the American Dingo set out on her next big adventure. (1:56 PM, 53°F)

Water could be heard on the SE side of the Dalton Highway. A stream was hidden over there in the forest. By the looks of the terrain, the stream would pass under the highway a short distance back to the SW. It would be nice to avoid a creek crossing. Lupe followed the highway SW until she was past where the stream went under it, before turning S and plunging into the forest.

Loopster on the Dalton Highway somewhere near milepost 168.5. Photo looks SW.

Lupe immediately found herself in a densely packed spruce forest on thick, spongy tundra. Tall, slender bushes were in the mix, too. This was exciting stuff for the Carolina Dog! Lupe ran sniffing and exploring, but was careful not to stray too far from SPHP.

Of course, the thick vegetation was still wet from last night’s rains and the recent shower in this area. Before long, Lupe and SPHP were both soaking wet, too. Not unexpected. Onward!

Lupe was immediately impressed with the dense forest off the Dalton Highway. She ran this way and that, excitedly sniffing and exploring.

From the Dalton Highway, a high barren ridge had been visible to the S well above tree line. That ridge appeared to be in the vicinity of Richard Carey’s successful line of ascent described in his trip report, so Loop needed to get up there. The ridge couldn’t be seen from down in the dense forest, but Loop and SPHP headed in its general direction.

Before long, water could be heard again. Another stream! Lupe reached it, and found the stream wider and deeper than could be readily forded. Both banks were lined with dense stands of tall bushes. Just getting in or out of the stream was an issue, never mind across it. No way! Maybe if Loop continued upstream far enough there would be a better spot? The stream might even bend off to the SW, in which case the Carolina Dog wouldn’t even need to cross it.

The terrain down by the stream was a difficult trek. Too many bushes amid jumbled rocks. Loop and SPHP turned E to climb onto a low ridge above the creek valley. This ridge headed SE, which wasn’t the really the direction Lupe needed to go, but would be fine for a little way. Climbing up onto and moving around on the ridge wasn’t all that easy, either. Spongy tundra made each step more difficult. While the spruce trees weren’t all that big, they were close together.

Lupe came to a few spots where the forest wasn’t so dense. The high barren ridge she needed to get to could then be seen to the S. Loop could also see farther up the creek valley. The news wasn’t good. The valley was turning SE instead of SW. Sooner or later, Lupe was going to have to find a way across that darn stream.

A view of the ridge Lupe was trying to get to from a rare open spot in the forest. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

While SPHP fiddled around with maps worrying about streams and ridges and routes and terrain, Lupe was having a grand time in the forest on her first adventure N of the Arctic Circle since she became the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood!

Another view of the ridge Lupe was trying to get to (Center) from a little farther along in the forest. Lupe eventually was able to climb up the closer hill (L of Center), which led her to the E (L) end of the higher ridge. Photo looks S.

Lupe and SPHP continued SE gaining elevation gradually on the low ridge for a while longer. Finally, the time came to see how much of a problem it was going to be to get across the creek up here. Lupe went SSW, leaving the ridge to look for the stream.

The stream wasn’t far away. This time the news was unexpectedly good. The stream was rushing along, but much smaller up here, only 3 feet wide and not very deep. Easy squeezy! SPHP swung across it with the help of an overhanging branch. Lupe simply leapt across.

One problem solved. However, an hour had already shot by since leaving the Dalton Highway. Puppy, ho! Time to get up on that barren ridge.

Lupe reaches the stream again 0.5 mile upstream of where she had first come to it. The news was good this time. The stream was much smaller up here than it had been down below. Lupe could easily leap across it.

Once beyond the stream, Loop headed S gaining elevation. The barren ridge she was aiming for was soon in sight ahead. The climb got steadily steeper and steeper. Progress seemed slow.

Another big hill was closer than the barren ridge Lupe was heading for. It looked like it might connect to the barren ridge much higher up than where the Carolina Dog was now. Maybe Loop should climb this hill? Getting above all the trees, bushes, and spongy tundra would be a huge help. Seemed to make sense. Yeah, Loop was going to try this closer hill instead of trudging through this difficult stuff all the way to the base of the barren ridge.

The climb up the nearer hill was quite steep. The trees soon thinned out, though scattered trees and plenty of bushes remained for a while. The hill narrowed. Higher up, Looper started coming to rock outcroppings. The rock formations were small, only 10 or 20 feet high. The American Dingo always found a way around them, though they sometimes slowed progress. Before she’d climbed terribly far, Lupe was beginning to get views of the Koyukuk River.

Only partway up the first big hill Lupe climbed she started getting views of the **Koyukuk River**. Photo looks N.

Rain showers are in progress beyond the **Koyukuk River**. Photo looks NW.

After what seemed like a long climb, Lupe managed to reached the top of the hill. She found that this wasn’t a separate hill at all. Loop was on a small level ridge protruding N from the rest of Cathedral Mountain. There were no trees here, although some bushes were around. Most of the ridge was covered with tundra and small rock outcroppings. Lupe had plenty of room to move around, and the views were the best yet.

Loop had expended so much energy having a blast down in the forest, that she was ready for a rest break. SPHP concurred.

Lupe curls up for a rest upon reaching the ridgeline at the top of the first big hill she’d just climbed. Her peakbagging goal, the summit of **Cathedral Mountain**, is beyond her at Center. Photo looks E.

Lupe relaxes near the end of the small ridge. The **Koyukuk River** is in view. Photo looks N.

**Koyukuk River** from the far end of the ridge. The **Dalton Highway** is on the near side of the river. Photo looks N.

While Loop rested, SPHP studied the topo map and read Richard Carey’s trip report again. Carey hadn’t mentioned anything about a stream crossing. As soon as Lupe had come to the stream, SPHP had suspected that she hadn’t started from the exact same place as Carey.

The topo map concurred. It seemed fairly certain Lupe had started out about a mile farther NE on the Dalton Highway than Carey had. Maybe more like at milepost 169.5 than 168.5. Eh, whatever. Looper must have started from just N of the streams shown in Section 12, and had left the Dalton Highway between them. If the American Dingo had only gone a little farther SW on the highway before leaving it, she would have completely avoided both streams.

This little ridge Lupe was on right now was between the “A” and “L” at the end of “Cathedral” on the map. The barren ridge Lupe was trying to get to was Carey’s “small hill” in the 2,500 ft. contour ENE of High Point 2545. Carey had passed a little S of this hill on his way E from the “low saddle”, which couldn’t be seen from here. All Loopster had to do now was gain the remaining 200+ feet of elevation required to reach the top of the barren ridge. She would then be in position to intercept Carey’s route the rest of the way.

Simple enough. The small ridge Lupe was already on connected directly to the slope leading up to E end of the barren ridge. Best get on with it. It had taken SPHP two hours just to get this far, and it was still a long way to the top of Cathedral Mountain. The weather might put an end to things at any time. Loop had been lucky so far, but rain showers were always in sight not terribly far away.

The ridge Lupe is on leads straight to the E end of the barren ridge she has been trying to get to all this time (Center). The top of the barren ridge is 200+ feet of elevation gain from here. Photo looks SSW.

Reaching the top of the barren ridge seemed to require more like 250 feet of elevation gain than 200 feet. The upper slope was surprisingly steep. Lupe had no problems, but SPHP was grasping for anything at all to hang onto, which wasn’t much. Nevertheless, both Loop and SPHP made it to the top.

For the first time, Lupe could now see territory S of Cathedral Mountain. A check of the topo map matched up with what Loop was seeing exactly as expected. No doubt at all where she was now.

Lupe finally reaches the top of the barren ridge. Both the true summit of **Cathedral Mountain** (Center) and the slightly lower **N summit** (L) are in sight. Photo looks E.

Having reached the top of the barren ridge, Lupe could now see territory on the other side of **Cathedral Mountain**. The Dalton Highway is in view passing through low ground dotted with small lakes. **Lake 1035** is the larger lake on the L. Photo looks SW.

The “low saddle” Carey had gone through on his ascent is seen between Lupe and the ridge at Center, which is **High Point 2545**. **Twelvemile Mountain (3,180 ft.)** is the multi-peaked mountain seen faintly beyond **High Point 2545**. Photo looks WSW.

From the barren ridge, Lupe could now join up with Carey’s route by heading SE toward an upper saddle at 2,750+ feet elevation. Lupe had a good view of this upper saddle, though the camera produced a lousy one due to moisture on the lens. A brief rain shower was sweeping over the area as the Carolina Dog was about to continue on again.

The **upper 2,750+ ft. saddle** (Center) from the barren ridge. Not such a hot shot due to a rain shower in progress, but still shows the overall lay of the terrain quite well. Lupe was heading for this upper saddle next. Photo looks SE.

The rain shower didn’t last long and was of no consequence. Lupe lost a bit of elevation leaving the barren ridge for the upper saddle, but was soon regaining it traversing a steep slope well below a rocky ridgeline. The slope was surprisingly tough going – slanty with minor drop offs, spongy tundra, and lots of bushes. Lupe finally climbed higher up on the slope close to the lower rocks, and things were a bit better up here.

Looking back on the way to the upper saddle. **High Point 2545** is the hill L of Center. Beyond it and a little more to the L is **Twelvemile Mountain (3,180 ft.)**. The barren ridge Lupe had just left is on the R. The low saddle Carey had crossed is at Center. Photo looks W.

Lupe approaches the upper saddle. The rain shower has moved on. Photo looks SE.

Looking back again from near the upper saddle. **High Point 2545** is in the foreground at Center. The low saddle is next to it on the R. **Twelvemile Mountain** is in the distance beyond the **Koyukuk River** on the L. Photo looks W.

Lupe passed slightly above and to the N of the upper saddle. She was now heading E on the S side of Cathedral Mountain. Ahead was another even slightly higher saddle at 2,800+ feet elevation. On the S side of this highest saddle, High Point 2955 was in view.

Lupe at the N end of the upper saddle. An even higher saddle at 2,800+ ft. elevation is in view on the R along with **High Point 2955**. Cathedral Mountain’s main E/W ridgeline is on the L. Photo looks SE.

From here, Carey had continued E staying somewhat below and to the S of Cathedral Mountain’s main ridgeline. The top of the ridgeline was to be avoided, since it was so rocky and jagged. Actually, the way SPHP read it, Carey had probably bypassed this upper saddle staying quite a bit higher and closer to the ridgeline than where Loop was now.

That didn’t matter. Lupe could easily angle up nearer the ridgeline as she kept going E. She headed toward a big rock fairly high on the slope N of the 2,800+ foot saddle.

From here Lupe would head for the highest big rock seen R of Center. Photo looks ESE.

Lupe reaches the big rock on the slope N of the highest 2,800+ ft. saddle. The 2,750+ ft. upper saddle is in view on the R. The low saddle Carey had come though is at far R well beyond it. **Twelvemile Mountain** is in the distance on the R. Photo looks WSW.

From the big rock, Lupe continued E, slowly gaining elevation. At first, this route was pretty easy. However, the slope kept steepening. As the tundra thinned out, Loop was more and more frequently traversing loose scree slopes.

Lupe continues E on Cathedral Mountain’s S slope not too far below the ridgeline. It was still easy going along in here. Photo looks WNW.

Making progress. Cathedral Mountain’s SE ridge is now in view on the R. Photo looks E.

The slope kept getting steeper as Lupe proceeded E. Vegetation thinned out and Loop began encountering more scree. Photo looks E.

For quite a long way, Lupe could see part of Cathedral Mountain’s SE ridge ahead. A long slope on this side of it slanted steeply up to the N leading to the still unseen summit. If Lupe could get over to that slope, SPHP was pretty certain she stood a good chance of reaching Cathedral Mountain’s summit, provided it could be reached without any technical climbing. Carey hadn’t mentioned any.

However, it was still in question whether or not it would be possible to get over there. The slope Loop was on kept getting steeper, and SPHP feared the Carolina Dog was going to come to an impassable point. The views immediately below Lupe’s position were becoming incredible, and a bit intimidating. SPHP quit looking down.

The mountain presented a series of minor “horizons” coming down the S slope that Lupe couldn’t see beyond until she got to them. One by one she crossed them going E, but another always appeared a little farther on. SPHP kept wondering if Loop was too high or low on the mountain? The answer wasn’t obvious. The Carolina Dog just kept going.

Finally, a much larger ragged line of rock appeared extending down the S slope from Cathedral Mountain’s main ridgeline. What would Lupe find there? Would she be able to get beyond it? More to the point, could SPHP get beyond it? Being able to turn that corner was critical to success. Carey had done it, but he had genuine mountaineering experience.

Lupe needed to reach the greenish slope below Cathedral Mountain’s SE ridge seen on the R. That slope goes N (L) right up to the summit. Carey had done it, but he had real mountaineering experience. The line of rocks coming down from the ridgeline ahead on the L made it questionable whether SPHP could get over there. Photo looks ENE.

Lupe was feeling confident, even if SPHP had doubts. Just have to be able to turn this last corner! Photo looks ENE.

About the time Lupe reached the rocky spine coming down from the main ridgeline, a second rain shower appeared heading straight this way. SPHP donned the rain poncho. Once again, Lupe got wet, SPHP didn’t, and the shower passed by fairly quickly without putting a serious damper on things.

A second rain shower swept over Loop and SPHP at the hardest part of the climb up **Cathedral Mountain**, but fortunately didn’t last long before sailing away. Photo looks back to the SW.

Loop and SPHP had to down climb a bit to get around the rocky spine, but succeeded in getting by it. The worst part of the trek to Cathedral Mountain’s summit was now behind the American Dingo! If the summit wasn’t technical, she was going to get there. That wouldn’t be known until she climbed hundreds of feet up the steep scree slope ahead.

After getting by the rocky spine, Lupe still faced a long steep climb up to the ridgeline where she expected to find Cathedral Mountain’s summit. Photo looks NE.

Up, up, up! Steep. Real steep, but Lupe was finally approaching the ridgeline. Big rock formations sat atop much of it, but Lupe could keep progressing E easily enough staying a bit below them. The summit couldn’t be too far away!

After a long climb up the really steep scree slope, Lupe sits among rocks only slightly below Cathedral Mountain’s main E/W ridgeline. The summit is just beyond the high point in sunshine on the R. Photo looks ENE.

Near the top of the ridge not too far W of the summit. Lupe had come up the slope on the L. Photo looks WSW.

A look at Cathedral Mountain’s SE ridge. Photo looks ESE.

A little W of the mountain’s true summit, Lupe reached the top of the main E/W ridgeline. Now she could see in almost every direction. The views were stupendous! So, so beautiful!

A rain shower sweeps through territory between **Twelvemile Mountain (3,180 ft.)** (L) and the **Koyukuk River**. Photo looks W.

Cathedral Mountain’s N summit from the main E/W ridgeline. Photo looks NNE.

The **Koyukuk River** and Cathedral Mountain’s slightly lower **N summit**. Photo looks N.

An easy stroll E along the main ridgeline brought Lupe to the summit of Cathedral Mountain. Here she found two 10 foot high knobs of rock. They were separated by 12 to 15 feet of level ground covered with vegetation. The E knob appeared clearly higher by a foot or two. Neither of the knobs was very large on top, but there was room for Loop to sit or stand comfortably.

Lupe scrambled up onto the higher E knob first. She found a small cairn on top protecting two tin cans that were painted red. The larger can was turned upside down over the smaller one to shield it from the weather. The American Dingo had made it! Despite SPHP’s fears and doubts near the end of the journey, she sat calmly and confidently at the true summit of Cathedral Mountain (3,350 ft.)!

Lupe sits by the cairn at the true summit of **Cathedral Mountain**! Photo looks ENE.

Loop on top of **Cathedral Mountain**. The red tin can protecting a smaller one inside containing a registry is in view as Loop found it. Photo looks ENE.

**Cathedral Mountain** was the first mountain **N of the Arctic Circle** that Lupe climbed after becoming the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood by climbing **AB Mountain (5,036 ft.)** near Skagway 10 days ago. Photo looks ENE.

So was there a registry inside the smaller tin can? Yes, there was! Inside was a plastic bag containing a pencil and a small notebook serving as a registry. A surprising number of entries were contained in it. Far more people had been up on Cathedral Mountain than SPHP would ever have expected.

Inside the front cover was something amazing. The notebook was in such good condition, it was hard to believe it was true. Richard Carey himself had brought this very notebook to the top of Cathedral Mountain more than 22 years ago! His was the first entry!

The notebook serving as a registry was in such great condition it was hard to believe Richard Carey had placed it up here more than 22 years ago. Inside the front cover, his was the very first entry.

SPHP entered Lupe’s name in the registry to make her ascent official. Lupe received lots of praise for her valiant efforts to get here, and SPHP shook her sweet paw in congratulations. SPHP recited how Cathedral Mountain was her 3rd summit ever N of the Arctic Circle and 1st of 2017, what memorable adventures each ascent had been, and how splendid each peak was!

Loop was pretty happy with all the richly deserved attention. Of course, the notebook and pencil went back in the plastic bag and inside the little red tin can. Everything got put back exactly as Lupe had found it.

Then, even though the day was getting so late it made SPHP nervous considering how long it had taken to get here, it was time to relax a bit up on Cathedral Mountain. Picture time! These were views Loop and SPHP would never want to forget.

Cathedral Mountain’s **N summit** with the **Koyukuk River** in the background. Photo looks NNE.

A rain shower sweeps over the **Koyukuk River** valley. Photo looks NNW.

Looking down on **High Point 2955** in the foreground. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Cathedral Mountain’s SE ridge is on the R in shadow. Photo looks ESE.

Loopster up on the slightly lower W knob in competition for the title of true summit of **Cathedral Mountain**. Photo looks WSW.

On the W knob, only a foot or two lower than the true summit. Photo looks W.

Evening sunlight filters through clouds and rain showers down onto the **Koyukuk River**. Photo looks NW.

Looking NNE farther up the **Koyukuk River valley**. Cathedral Mountain’s **N summit** is in the foreground. Photo taken with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Looking WSW over part of Cathedral Mountain’s main E/W ridge with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

**Twelvemile Mountain (3,180 ft.)** (Center) in evening sunlight. Photo looks W.

After nearly 40 minutes at the top of Cathedral Mountain, the sad moment of departure drew near. What a magnificent peak! Lupe climbed up on top of the summit’s W knob one more time.

Before departing, Lupe scrambled up on the W knob one more time. Photo looks E.

Loop’s last moments atop **Cathedral Mountain**. Photo looks E.

The return trip was marvelous! It had seemed to SPHP that maybe Loop had been too low for too long on the ascent. At times, things had looked easier higher up. Of course, there was a lot of rock along the top of the ridgeline. Maybe it wasn’t possible to stay so high, but on the way back, Loopster was going to try.

Staying high worked. This was a faster route with amazing views. Lupe was eventually forced down off the ridgeline, but not until she was getting close to the highest saddle N of High Point 2955.

Heading down, but staying high along the main ridgeline as long as possible. This was a better route than the way Lupe had come up. **Twelvemile Mountain** is on the R. Photo looks WSW.

Loop almost always had to stay on the S side of the main E/W ridgeline when forced to make a choice. The N side was usually cliffy. That wasn’t always true. Here she’s on the N side of the mountain with a fantastic view of the **Koyukuk River**. Photo looks N.

Done with the main ridge and descending to the highest saddle. **High Point 2955** is on the L. Photo looks SW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe explores the highest saddle. Photo looks WSW.

Instead of returning to the top of the barren ridge on the way back, Lupe skirted it to the S as Richard Carey had done. She passed over the low saddle NE of High Point 2545 retracing Carey’s route. She continued W along the mountainside a little beyond the saddle before turning N and descending between two rounded bald hills.

Lupe with a grand view of the **Koyukuk River** from the W end of the low saddle Richard Carey had crossed **N of High Point 2545**. Photo looks N.

Lupe’s route below the bald hills was steep, but was full of thick tundra, which made it soft and easy. Going up here would have been tough, but Loop made rapid progress down the slope. She never did have to cross a stream, although she did cross a long stretch of boggy terrain on a much more gentle slope nearing the Dalton Highway.

The light was almost gone by the time Lupe made it back to the Dalton Highway. A 0.25 mile gradual uphill trek remained to Alpo and a warm blankie inside the G6. What a wonderful day Cathedral Mountain had been! (11:00 PM)

The Koyukuk River from the low saddle near day’s end, Cathedral Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-17-17

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