Yukon – Page 3 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Mount Sittichinli, Richardson Mountains, Yukon Territory, Canada – Part 1: The Dempster Highway to Peak 1402M (8-9-23)

Part 1 of Day 18 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

4:27 AM, Dempster Highway at Wright Pass, Yukon/Northwest Territories border – No apparent change in the weather. Borne on a 20 mph wind, smoke still streamed through Wright Pass from out of the SE. A faint rosy glow to the NE showed that dawn was coming, or perhaps that the sun was already up, still hidden in the smoke.

Lupe yawned.

Awake already, SPHP? What’s going on?

Mount Sittichinli (5,165 ft.), Loopster!

We’re really going to attempt it, SPHP?

Yeah, it’s now or never. This is our big chance, Loop. We’re choosing now!

Mount Sittichinli is a long way from the highway, isn’t it, SPHP?

Yup. 15+ km, more than 9 miles, almost due N of Wright Pass as the crow flies. Somewhat longer as a practical matter. No roads, no trails, pure unadulterated Richardson Mountains wilderness. I’d be nervous about that, but the last report we got at Eagle Plains was for at least another week of warm, dry weather.

You can thank the Arctic apocalypse, SPHP.

Hah! Most definitely, Looper. Anyway, I’ve been awake half the night thinking about how we’re going to pull this off.

An actual, well thought out plan before we’re in trouble? Nice change of modus operandi, SPHP! Care to share any details, or do you just want to shock me with how smoothly it all goes?

Well thought out? We’ll see. I hope so. Here’s the general gist of it, Sweet Puppy. With weather, normally the biggest danger this far N, unlikely to be an issue, it’s pretty straightforward. My main concern is not running the iPhone out of battery, since GPS will be crucial to navigation in the event of dense fog, or more likely these days, wildfire smoke.

And exactly how do you plan to manage that, SPHP? The battery is always dying on that thing.

We’ll use it very sparingly, Loop. I’ll just create a point to point GPS track, only turning the iPhone on at significant changes of direction. Can take a few photos at those points since the iPhone will already be on. The rest of the time, I’ll use our old Canon Powershot camera. As long as the iPhone battery stays at least 50% charged, we can keep going. Once below it, we’ll have to turn back.

How long will it take us to get to Mount Sittichinli, SPHP?

Depends on what the terrain’s like, Loopster. If it isn’t all that rugged, I’m hoping we can stay high, following the ridges linking the mountains and hills on the way there. If that doesn’t work, we’ll have to see what options exist to go around them. I’m thinking 2 days should be enough to get there and back, but we’ll pack for 3.

So you’re bringing the tiny house, SPHP?

Absolutely! Have to, Looper. No way we can get to Mount Sittichinli and return in a day.

Well, let me know when you’re ready, SPHP. In the meantime, I’m going back to sleep.

Good idea, Sweet Puppy. Rest up. It’s going to be an epic day!

6:49 AM, 56ºF, Wright Pass, Yukon/Northwest Territories border – The sun was well up now, looking fairly bright. Maybe the smoke wasn’t quite as bad today? Wouldn’t that be nice? With everything pretty much ready to go, SPHP turned the key, and the RAV4 sprang to life.

So did the American Dingo.

What happened to Mount Sittichinli, SPHP? Where are we going?

Sittichinli’s still on, Loopster. Been looking at the maps, though, and North Wright Pass Mountain (4,500 ft.) on the N side of the pass here is one of the highest spots on the way to Mount Sittichinli. Rather than climb it, we’re just going to drive 2 or 3 miles into the Northwest Territories to see if we can find another safe spot to park the RAV4. If we can, we’ll avoid this first mountain, and shave a little distance off our trek, too.

7:21 AM, 59ºF, Dempster Highway – Luck of the Dingo! 3 miles into the Northwest Territories from Wright Pass, a nice, roomy pullout appeared on the R (E) side of the highway. What appeared to be some sort of small weather-related installation was here, but no other vehicles. Plenty of room to park the RAV4 well off the highway.

Smoky, without even much of a breeze here. Last minute preparations complete, everything SPHP could think of was ready to go.

Show time, Loopster!

Ready for action, Lupe sprang out of the RAV4. Directly opposite the pullout, a dirt road went up a barren incline to the top of a low ridge.

About to set out for Mount Sittichinli from the **Dempster Highway**. **North Wright Pass Mountain** (Center). Photo looks W.

Can’t imagine that dirt track goes very far, Looper, but let’s find out!

Speaking of tracks, did you remember to start a GPS track, SPHP?

I did. Onward! Puppy, ho!

Crossing the Dempster Highway, Lupe followed the dirt track up onto the small ridge. The track almost immediately turned W, climbing gradually toward North Wright Pass Mountain. Sure enough, it soon faded away. In the distance, a big rounded hill was now visible N of North Wright Pass Mountain.

At the end of any discernable dirt track. **North Wright Pass Mountain** (L), **Peak 1220M** (R). Photo looks NW.

Go that way, SPHP?

Yes. Let’s head for the pass between them, Looper.

Still gradually gaining elevation, Lupe headed toward the distant hill. Not a single tree grew out here. The gently rolling terrain presented no obstacles other than occasional soggy spots easily identified by their bright green color. For the most part, the ground was reasonably firm, covered with tundra that wasn’t too thick or spongy.

Lupe drank from tiny streams emerging from springs. In some regions, she trotted past stands of low bushes. Overall progress was excellent. Before long the region between North Wright Pass Mountain and that next big hill to the N was coming into view.

On firm terrain. **Peak 1220M** (R). Photo looks NW.

Successfully avoiding **North Wright Pass Mountain** (L of Center). Photo looks SW.

A glimpse back at the **low ridge** (Center) Lupe followed at the start. Photo looks SE.

Approaching **Pass 1110M** (Center) between **North Wright Pass Mountain** (L) and **Peak 1220M** (R). Photo looks NW.

The pass was considerably higher than SPHP expected, and getting to it wasn’t as easy as anticipated, either. The upper edge of the ridge coming down from North Wright Pass Mountain was almost prohibitively steep. Crossing a big ravine to get a bit farther N was going to be necessary to reach the pass.

Unfortunately, this rocky ravine was steep-sided, too, especially lower down. Lupe had to climb close to its upper end before an opportunity to cross the ravine presented itself.

Approaching the ravine after a steep climb. Photo looks WNW.

Crossing the ravine at a favorable point. Photo looks WNW.

Once across, a further short, steep climb got the Carolina Dog to a nice bench leading directly to the pass.

On the **bench** leading to **Pass 1110M** (Center). **Peak 1220M** (R of Center). Photo looks NNW.

Approaching **Pass 1110M** (Center). **Peak 1220M** (R). Photo looks NNW.

Covered with scree and scant tundra vegetation, Pass 1110M was flat and very broad. During the easy march N toward Peak 1220M, the view to the W was too smoky to pay any attention to. Toward the E, a very steep edge overlooked an enormous drainage hundreds of feet lower.

Glancing back at North Wright Pass Mountain, now almost directly S, it was so high, steep, and rocky that SPHP was extremely glad Lupe hadn’t tried to go over it from Wright Pass.

**North Wright Pass Mountain** (Center) from **Pass 1110M**. Photo looks SSE.

Whew! Dodged a bullet there, Looper!

We’re doing great, aren’t we, SPHP?

Excellent progress so far, Loopster. All we have to do now is figure out whether to go over or around this next big hill.

Aah, yes! That next big hill. Although much smaller than North Wright Pass Mountain, it wasn’t anything to sneeze at, either. Rising more than 300 feet above Pass 1110M, its lower slopes contained a mix of rocks and tundra. However, the upper regions were nothing but a jumble of talus. While going right over Peak 1220M appeared quite possible, all that talus would really slow SPHP down.

Hmm. Having seen North Wright Pass Mountain’s N face, I’m not so sure climbing this next hill is such a good idea, either, Loop.

Maybe we should just go up the easy part for a closer look, SPHP?

Sounds sensible enough, Sweet Puppy. We’ll consider our options there.

Starting up **Peak 1220M’s S slope**. Photo looks NNW.

From where the last of the tundra leveled out, the top of Peak 1220M didn’t look all that much higher, but the rest of the climb was definitely all talus. Traversing the W slope to get around the mountain didn’t look like such a hot idea, either. It was all talus, too. The tundra extended a little farther and higher toward the E.

Near the end of the tundra below **Peak 1220M’s summit** (Center). Photo looks NNW.

Might as well have a look over that way, Looper. Not too thrilled with our other options.

Climbing a bit more as she went a little farther NE, Lupe quickly reached some flat rocks. The view was shocking! Another talus slope extended hundreds of feet lower to a bench of tundra seen only dimly in the haze.

**E side of Peak 1220M**. Photo looks NNE.

Criminitly! How can it be that far down and so steep? It’s not supposed to be like this, Loop.

According to what, SPHP? It is what it is.

According to all the maps I was looking at last night, Loopster.

Might want to take another look in the daylight, SPHP.

Evidently! While Lupe waited, SPHP consulted the paper map.

I still don’t get it, Looper. Nothing’s matching up with reality!

Are you sure you’re reading the map correctly, SPHP?

Why, of course, I am, Looper! Unless …

Suddenly it began to click.

Unless what, SPHP?

Give me a moment, Loop. I’m turning on the iPhone.

Oh, good grief! Of all the stupid, ridiculous errors! How could I?

Figure it out, SPHP?

Yes. The maps are, of course, fine. The problem is, we aren’t where I thought we were, Loopster. We’ve just come across Pass 1110M, and we’re now on the SE flank of Peak 1220M.

And where did you think we were, SPHP?

Pass 990M, Loop! I’d decided that was the best area to head for initially in order to skip as much extra elevation gain as possible. I’ve just had it in my mind all this time that Pass 990M was exactly where we were going. That’s why we’re so much higher than I was expecting. We came to the wrong pass! We were supposed to skip this one.

It was an unbelievably idiotic error.

And where is Pass 990M, SPHP?

On the other, N side of Peak 1220M, Loop.

Oh, so exactly where we thought we were trying to get to from here then only a moment ago, right, SPHP?

Yes, but we should never have come up here, Looper. We should still be way down on the tundra E of here making great time. Instead I’ve gotten us trapped at a dead end full of talus no matter which way we go.

Well, we may as well get started then, SPHP.

With what, Loop?

Heading E on down to the tundra, SPHP. Didn’t you just say that’s where we’re supposed to be?

Yes. I suppose you’re right, Looper. May as well get at it, but angle N as much as possible during this descent. Pass 990M is still our objective.

Heading NNE, what should have been a completely unnecessary long trudge lower began along Peak 1220M‘s E face. The slope was plenty steep, but not enough to be scary. As usual, SPHP was super slow.

Glancing back on the way down. **Pass 1110M** (far L). Photo looks SW.

Approaching the **tundra bench** (R). Photo looks NE.

Even after reaching the start of the tundra, still more elevation had to be lost to get down to the bench where the terrain leveled out enough to easily turn NNW toward Pass 990M. A lot of time had been chewed up, but Lupe was back on track again! Even SPHP was once more making great progress.

This encouraging situation endured all of 10 minutes before disaster struck again. Lupe was roaming well ahead, crossing a rocky region, when SPHP saw her slip. The Carolina Dog immediately began hopping gingerly on 3 legs, while holding her R rear paw off the ground. SPHP raced toward her.

Loopster! Don’t move, I’m coming!

Lupe was still hopping around on 3 legs when SPHP reached her. Examining the injured leg, SPHP was glad to see no blood, no obvious wound. Gently squeezing the offended paw and joints along that leg, Lupe didn’t wince or complain at all. Good! No broken bones, maybe a sprain or torn ligament? Either one could still put an end to the Mount Sittichinli dream, and mean a difficult journey back to the RAV4.

Lay down for a bit, and take it easy, Loop. Maybe that will help?

A 10 minute miracle! When Lupe got up again she wasn’t limping at all.

Are you good to go, Sweet Puppy, or does it still hurt?

I’m fine, SPHP. Stubbed a claw. I’m all better now.

10:46 AM – Reaching Pass 990M from above, this time there were no ravines to be crossed. An easy downhill stroll got Lupe to an enormous plain of dirt, small rocks, and sparse tundra even larger than the one at Pass 1110M. The E and W edges were both gently rounded, the terrain sloping gradually away.

Looking back to the S, SPHP was once again glad that Lupe hadn’t tried going up and over Peak 1220M, or around the W side.

**Peak 1220M** (L of Center) from **Pass 990M**. Photo looks S.

Directly ahead, a low ridge at the N end of Pass 990M swept up from the ESE, connecting to the S ridge of a pyramid-shaped peak. A high pass was immediately E of the pyramid, and farther E, a series of additional high points were strung out along a massive ridge.

Maybe this would be a good time for another peek at the maps, SPHP?

Don’t mind if I do, Loopster. Never seems to hurt.

**Peak 1160M** (Center) and **Pass 1125M** (R of Center) from **Pass 990M**. Photo looks N.

OK. Think I’ve got it, Loop. That pyramid is Peak 1160M, and the high pass to the R of it is Pass 1125M, which is our next objective. Once we get there, we’ll want to follow that huge ridge to the R, or explore the valley beyond the pass NE, whatever looks easiest.

Quite a march, but this plan worked surprisingly well. Venturing over the low ridge, Lupe followed the base of Peak 1160M‘s rough S ridge higher. The terrain leading to Pass 1125M was a steady climb, steepest toward the end up a series of small benches. Extensive talus fields were the only significant obstacle, and most were pretty flat, making them easier and safer to cross. By staying toward the E, the American Dingo avoided the worst of them, and that was about all there was to it.

**Peak 1160M** (L) and **Pass 1125M** (Center) from the low ridge. Photo looks N.

Along the **base of Peak 1160M’s S ridge** (L). **Peak 1160M** (Center). Photo looks N.

Making progress, but with talus fields ahead. **Peak 1160M** (L), **Pass 1125M** (Center). Photo looks N.

At a wet spot. There weren’t enough of them to be an issue. Photo looks SE.

Closing in on **Pass 1125M** (Center). Still quite a bit of talus around. Photo looks N.

Almost there! On the upper benches. **Pass 1125M** (L). Photo looks NNE.

12:38 PM, 10-15 mph SE breeze – Also covered with dirt, scree, and scant tundra, Pass 1125M was like the others Lupe had come to, although even at 700 feet wide NE/SW, it wasn’t nearly as large. A lone 2 foot tall grassy knoll near the middle provided the Carolina Dog with a comfortable spot to curl up partly sheltered from the breeze.

Bookended by 2 steep talus ridges, the one to the SW being Peak 1160M, which looked nothing like a pyramid from here, the only easy route was to continue NW right on over Pass 1125M on terrain that sloped gently away until it got steep enough to vanish from view. In that direction, a huge ridge stood on the far side of a wide and presumably, deep valley.

Equally ready for a rest break, SPHP dropped the pack, then sat down next to Lupe.

Resting by the **grassy knoll** at **Pass 1125M**. **Peak 1160M** (R). Photo looks SW.

The **massive ridge** beyond **Pass 1125M**. Photo looks NW.

How are we doing, SPHP?

Not too bad, Loop. Still a long way to go, though. We’re only about a third of the way to Mount Sittichinli.

Looking slightly E of due N, a giant dome appeared to be the high point of the massive ridge beyond the valley. A long, tan gash revealed the likely course of a stream too small to be seen from this far away. SPHP watched as an enormous plume of smoke billowed up beyond the dome.

**Peak 1360M** (L) in the distance. Photo looks N.

See that big dome, Loopster? That’s the region we need to head for next. I’d hoped to follow this ridge we’re already on rather than lose our newly won elevation descending into the valley, but I didn’t count on this steep wall of talus NE of us. Now I wish that instead of coming here that we’d tried to reach this ridge farther E.

That ridge isn’t even 100 feet tall, SPHP, and the N side of it doesn’t look too bad. We can scramble up and over it from there.

Yeah, maybe, Loop. Cliffy along the upper edge, though. Don’t suppose it would take long to find out, but who knows what the other side looks like? We could easily cliff out over there.

The problematic **talus ridge** blocking the way. Photo looks NE.

Make up your mind, SPHP. I’m fine with it either way. We can take the path of least resistance and head down into the valley, or climb that talus ridge and hope for better terrain beyond it.

I’m sorry, Looper. You’re always a good sport. Tell ya what. Let’s walk over to the N end of the talus ridge for a closer look, then we’ll decide which way to go.

Up close, the N side of the talus ridge really didn’t look that bad. Lupe was right. Kind of steep at first, but perfectly doable, and wouldn’t take long. However, more of the valley was in view from here, and it wasn’t as deep or steep as SPHP had assumed. Off to the NNE, another high point was now visible, with a little bump in a huge pass between it and the Peak 1360M dome.

Shoot, Loop! The valley is shallower than I thought, and there’s nothing down there that’s going to stop us. Let’s forget this steep talus nonsense and make some tracks! That other high point must be Peak 1402M. All we have to do is aim between it and the big Peak 1360M dome as soon as we can turn in that direction.

Lupe had barely started down into the valley when she came upon a white stone standing on end. 2 or 3 feet high, it was very noticeable even from a distance.

Starting down into the valley. Photo looks NW.

**Peak 1360M** (Center) and **Peak 1402M** (R) from the white stone. Photo looks NNE.

This white stone is quite a landmark, SPHP! Let’s remember it in case your iPhone battery dies on the way back.

Not a bad idea, Loopster.

Long fields of talus extended far into the valley from the surrounding peaks and ridges. Gradually turning NE, the American Dingo had to go nearly all the way down to the tan gash in the bottom of the valley to avoid it. This forced a march across a bright green boggy region, which SPHP didn’t enjoy slogging through, but it wasn’t difficult, and that part was soon over.

Lupe reached firmer, drier ground, and the process of regaining all her recently lost elevation and more began.

Continuing the descent from **Pass 1125M**. **Peak 1360M** (L), **Peak 1402M** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

Glancing back well after starting the climb back out of the valley. Problematic **talus ridge NE of Pass 1125M** (Center). **Peak 1160M** (R). **Pass 1125M** is hidden between them. Photo looks SW.

Continuing toward **Pass 1350M** (Center) between **Peak 1360M** (L) and **Peak 1402M** (R). Photo looks NNE.

Approaching the upper end of the valley, Lupe was well S of the tan gash. A ridge S of Peak 1402M was directly ahead.

Approaching the **ridge S of Peak 1402M**. **Peak 1042M summit** (L). Photo looks NE.

So far, so good, Loopster. We’re getting close to where we would have been if we’d taken the ridge route instead of the valley.

Wonderful, but can we take another break, SPHP? When are we going to have something to eat, anyway? You did bring food, didn’t you?

Of course, I did! Just didn’t want to start using it up on a journey this long before we’d made much progress, Loop. Can you hold out a little longer? We ought to have a terrific view from up on that ridge.

Yes, if you promise we’ll stop up there, SPHP.

Deal, Loop! As we head up, let’s aim a little toward the N (L) where the ridge isn’t as steep.

1:50 PM, 60ºF, 15-20 mph E wind – Lupe hadn’t made it to the top of the ridge before laying down on a patch of soft tundra, but she was above the steepest part. Resting beneath a light jacket, the American Dingo had a commanding view of the territory she’d just traveled through. Despite being marred by the ever-present smoke, the scene was clear enough to be impressive. North Wright Pass Mountain (4,500 ft.), Peak 1220M, and Peak 1160M were all in sight beyond the valley below.

Taking a break after the long march up the valley. **Peak 1402M summit** (R of Center). Photo looks NNE.

**North Wright Pass Mountain** (L), **Peak 1220M** (L of Center), **Peak 1160M** (R). Photo looks SSW.

Lupe snapped up all the beef jerky SPHP was willing to share, then put her head down, snoozing in the sun. For nearly half an hour, SPHP sat next to her pondering the vast, unspoiled, empty tranquility. Other than low grasses accosted by the E wind, nothing moved.

Well N of the Arctic Circle, the feeling was surreal, like being in a dream world. Only yesterday, Lupe had been on Peak 3850 S of Wright Pass. Now the Carolina Dog was actually on her way N to Mount Sittichinli, miles from the Dempster Highway, her route roughly following the Yukon Territory and Northwest Territories border, which ran along all these same ridges and passes she’d been venturing along.

Still a long way to go. Hard to say how it was all going to turn out. So far, despite SPHP’s navigation errors, especially that needless excursion to Pass 1110M, success still seemed quite possible. Mount Sittichinli! The American Dingo might actually get there. Incredible!

You ready, Loopster? Hope so. Time’s up. Onward! Puppy, ho!

2:35 PM – Climbing gradually, steadily NNE, Lupe now stood on an odd little ridge only a few feet high atop a flat rock. Peak 1402M was directly ahead now, only a short distance away. Another mound of talus, SPHP was surprised to see quite a bit of tundra on its SW flank.

Approaching **Peak 1402M** (Center). Photo looks N.

Gosh, Loop. I’d been thinking we’d just bypass Peak 1402M to the W as we head N over Pass 1350M, but that tundra looks like it could get us nearly halfway to the top before we’d face the inevitable rock hop.

Want to climb Peak 1402M, SPHP? It’s not that much higher from here.

Sure! Why not, Loopster? Shouldn’t take us long with a tundra assist, and Peak 1402M is the highest point around according to the topo maps. Let’s tag the summit just for fun, then continue right on over to the other side. Should be a ridge going N there that we’ll need to follow.

2:59 PM, Peak 1402M – Took a little longer than expected to get up here, but that wasn’t the only flaw in SPHP’s plan.

Oh, good grief! The N face is a sheer cliff, Loop! We’ll have to go right back down the way we came up.

Continuing N was an impossibility, yet SPHP was still glad the Carolina Dog had made the ascent. The views were spectacular! Towering above everything else in that direction, North Wright Pass Mountain was due S. Beyond it, Peak 3850 was in sight, too, barely visible in the smoke.

**North Wright Pass Mountain** (L) and **Peak 1220M** (Center) from **Peak 1402M**. Photo looks S.

Beyond Pass 1350M, the dome of Peak 1360M was now only a KM W. Toward the NW stood a mysterious peak shown on the topo maps only as Peak 1311M at best. If true, it somehow presented quite the illusion from this angle, because it looked significantly higher.

**Peak 1360M** (L), **Peak 1311M** (R) in the distance. Photo looks W.

Looking NNE, the ridge Lupe needed to follow beyond Pass 1350M was in sight. Broad and rounded with some hilliness along it, this ridge was almost completely bare, covered only with dirt and scree. From the last minor hill at the far end, another ridge swept down to the NW. Lupe would have to follow it, too.

The **next ridge** (R) that Lupe would need to follow. Photo looks N.

The most thrilling sight of all, though, was miles NNW where a huge ridge running E/W sported two almost equally high peaks.

Loopster, we can see it! Mount Sittichinli (5,165 ft.)!

Are you sure, SPHP?

Yes! I’m positive, Looper. Has to be!

**Mount Sittichinli** from **Peak 1402M**. Photo looks NNW.

Which one is Sittichinli, SPHP?

That I don’t know yet, Sweet Puppy. The one toward the R (E), I hope. The one on the L looks like a bugger to get to …

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Mount Sittichinli, Richardson Mountains, Yukon Territory, Canada – Part 2: Peak 1402M to Base Camp (8-9-23)

The Dempster Highway Travelogue

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Into the Arctic Apocalypse! – To Eagle Plains, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-6-23 to 8-8-23)

Days 15, 16 & Part 1 of Day 17 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-6-23, 6:03 AM, 62ºF, Steese Highway at the Twelvemile Summit Wayside, Alaska – Lupe was already awake, panting on her pink blanket.

About time you woke up, SPHP. Can you please open the RAV4’s windows and let some air in here? I’m roasting!

Sorry, Miss Hot-Blooded. Seemed like a mighty comfortable night to me. Yes, I’ll open the windows as soon as we get going. The mosquitoes are bad, which is why they’re closed in the first place.

So, where are we going today, anyway, SPHP?

Fairbanks first. We can get some weather forecasts there, and maybe find out if there’s anywhere we can escape this endless smoke.

8-6-23, 1:15 PM, 76ºF, Fairbanks, Alaska –

Any decision yet, SPHP? You’ve been dithering for hours! It’s hot in here even with the windows open when we’re not moving.

I know it, but the situation is just incredible, Loopster! Who would have thought that we would run into the worst air quality in North America this far N? Rain expected almost every day in SW Alaska, which doesn’t do us any good, and hot and smoky almost everywhere else, even up in the Brooks Range for the next few days. Heavy rains incoming after that.

There must be someplace where it isn’t raining or on fire, SPHP.

Yes, way down by Whitehorse and Haines Junction in the Yukon, the air quality and weather are both lovely. Would be wonderful, if we were on our way back home, Looper, but we’re not.

Well, what about the Dempster Highway, SPHP? Are things any better there yet?

The air quality map says it’s still smoky all the way from Dawson City to Tuktoyaktuk, Loop. An apocalypse all the way to the Arctic Ocean! It’s unbelievable! Always dreamed of having some decent weather so we could climb a few peaks in the Richardson Range. Yet now that it’s finally warm and dry in that territory instead of the usual freezing rain and snow we’ve encountered there before, the boreal forests and tundra are on fire, and the smoke is terrible.

So, what are we going to do then, SPHP? Just sit here wasting time?

No, right or wrong, I’ll make up my mind one way or another shortly, Loopster. Promise!

SPHP did decide, but before even getting out of Fairbanks turned the RAV4 around, reversing the decision.

No Brooks Range, SPHP?

Love the Brooks Range! You know that, Loop, but we were there last year. This was supposed to be the year the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood returned to Tuktoyaktuk. I guess we may as well try it. After all, how many warm, dry years are we going to have a shot at in the Richardson Mountains? This might be our only chance to do much of anything there. Maybe we’ll get lucky, and the smoke won’t be that bad by the time we get there?

I’ve never been to an Arctic apocalypse before, SPHP. Maybe it will be fun?

Count your blessings, Loopster. Apocalypses usually don’t have that much to commend them, but we’ll see.

8-6-23, 2:42 PM, Alaska Highway, halfway to Delta Junction – The smoke thickened, the sky turned an eerie orange, and it got noticeably darker.

What’s happening, SPHP? Have we reached the apocalypse already?

I don’t know. Seems that way, doesn’t it, Looper?

Suddenly, the smoke was no longer down on the highway, but looming menacingly overhead. A few miles farther, SPHP stopped at a pullout along the Tanana River. Lupe leapt out of the RAV4 for a look. Beyond the river, an enormous plume of smoke was rising from unseen fires off to the NW.

The apocalypse from along the **Tanana River**. Photo looks NW.

Hah! Look at that, Loop! Appears we’re already leaving the apocalypse behind us.

Oh, I hope so, SPHP! Didn’t think it would be this easy.

Air quality was greatly improved on the way to Tok, and remained the best it had been since way back at Telkwa Microwave Mountain in British Columbia after turning onto the Taylor Highway. A bit of haze, but Mount Fairplay was easily visible from a great distance against a blue sky when Lupe reached a pullout on a high ridge with a view.

**Mount Fairplay** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

Maybe you made the right choice, SPHP? The air is definitely much clearer now than when we climbed Mount Fairplay 4 days ago.

Oh, yeah! Undisputable. We couldn’t have seen Mount Fairplay at all from here back then, Loop.

The improvement in air quality was most encouraging, but by the time Lupe reached Chicken, another plume of smoke was visible. It turned out to be farther off than it first seemed, and SPHP eventually drove past that region. However, another plume of smoke appeared N of the Top of the World Highway shortly before reaching the Canadian border.

8-6-23, 8:35 PM, Top of the World Highway – Customs closed at 6:00 PM, so Lupe had arrived much too late to enter Canada today. SPHP parked the RAV4 at a pullout a mile W of the border. NW of this pullout, a huge expanse of territory was in view. It was all somewhat smoky, and many small plumes could be seen rising from a hill only a few miles away.

Every now and then, a towering bright orange flame would flare up briefly on that hill before dying away within a few minutes. The air was much clearer to the SE, protected by a breeze that kept the smoke away. After hanging around the pullout for nearly an hour and seeing a fox trot through it, which was pretty exciting, it getting on toward sunset.

We ought to climb Davis Dome (4,124 ft.), SPHP! For an apocalypse, it’s a lovely evening, and I’ve been cooped up in the RAV4 most of the day.

Great minds think alike, Loopster! Let’s do it!

Davis Dome was no big deal – an easy romp! Located immediately WSW of the pullout, less than 300 feet of elevation gain got Lupe to the top.

**Davis Dome** (Center) from the **Top of the World Highway**. Photo looks WSW.

8-6-23, 9:39 PM, Davis Dome (4,124 ft.) – The summit region was big, round, flat, and covered with tundra and small rocks. There were a few things to see up here in addition to the unobstructed expansive views. Conducting a clockwise tour, the first item of interest along this route was an odd green shack near the SW edge.

Part of the **Davis Dome summit region**. Photo looks SW.

By the mysterious green shack. Photo looks SSW.

We’ve seen other sheds like this before, SPHP. I presume it has something to do with the weather or communications like you always tell me?

Yes, I suppose so. I don’t actually know what any of them are for, Loop. Just a guess.

Two cairns were over by the N edge of the summit region. The largest cairn sat on a big rock that had a survey benchmark attached to it. And that was about it for highlights other than the views. Rounded hills and ridges, most of them lower, extended to the horizon in all directions.

While these vast empty scenes were all amazing, a couple of views stood out. Canadian and US customs over by two hills 1.5 mile NE, and looking off to the NW, an orange sun setting beyond the smoking hill.

On the **biggest cairn**. **Survey benchmark** (Center). **US/Canadian customs** is over by the two hills on the R. Photo looks NE.

**Davis Dome survey benchmark**. Sadly, no “Walker” stamp as shown on the maps.

A smoking sunset from the small cairn. Photo looks NW.

Same view with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NW.

20 minutes on Davis Dome, and the show was over. The sun was gone.

Getting late, Loop. Already 10:00 PM. Might as well head back. Another long drive ahead of us tomorrow.

Are we going to be making any stops along the way, SPHP?

Sure, Looper, but exactly when, where, and for how long all depends on what we find. No big adventures if it’s really smoky.

About to head back down to the RAV4. Photo looks NE.

8-7-23, 12:30 AM – SPHP woke suddenly to a low growl. A waxing moon was shining brightly in the E. At a 90º angle, a bit of twilight remained visible far to the N. Seemed a peculiar arrangement for a night sky, but not unusual in Alaska. Hackles up, Lupe was alert, watching. Something was out there in the night! Considerably larger than the fox seen earlier, a coyote, or maybe a wolf, was slinking its way across the pullout. The American Dingo exploded into a barking frenzy.

A wolf, SPHP! A real live wild wolf!

You’re a great watch Dingo, Looper, but forget it! Not letting you out there to tangle with that!

8-7-23, 7:41 AM, 64ºF – Davis Dome made a great morning constitutional, in addition to offering a first glimpse of what the day had in store. Off to the N, smoke drifted lazily in the valleys, while more billowed up toward the NW.

Morning view of the apocalypse from **Davis Dome**. Photo looks N.

Mordor as seen from afar, Looper.

Mordor? Such drama, SPHP! Look at that incredible blue sky above it all. Everyone knows Mordor doesn’t have skies like that.

Me, drama? Really, Loop? What about your gut-busting barking frenzy last night?

Totally justified. That wolf was real, SPHP!

8-7-23, 11:32 AM, 74ºF – As usual, the Carolina Dog had sailed through Canadian customs without a hitch. After a break for Ritz Crackers and cheese (Dingoes love crackers and cheese!) on the first big hill the Top of the World Highway climbed after entering Yukon Territory, SPHP hadn’t made any other stops. Smoke marred the views during the entire drive to the Yukon River where Lupe now stood waiting for the George Black Ferry to Dawson City.

Blue skies overhead, but the smoke wasn’t any better down in the river valley than it had been 5 days ago.

Waiting for the **George Black Ferry** (L) on the **Yukon River**. Photo looks ENE.

I know it’s smoky, but while we’re in Dawson, can we at least check out the views from Midnight Dome (2,887 ft.), SPHP?

But of course, Sweet Puppy, the smoke isn’t that bad, and Midnight Dome is a tradition. Basically just a drive up, so it won’t take all that long.

**Yukon River** (L & Center) from **Midnight Dome** near Dawson City. Photo looks SW.

8-7-23, 1:12 PM, 81ºF – After leaving Dawson City, air quality improved dramatically during the drive E to the start of the Dempster Highway.

Display at the start of the **Dempster Highway**. Photo looks E.

Wow! Can it be? Maybe the apocalypse has moved on, Loopster.

Uh, no. The journey N on the Dempster had barely begun when a huge plume of smoke came into view. A SE breeze was driving it straight at the Ogilvie Mountains. By KM 25, they could scarcely be seen at all.

Entering **Tombstone Territorial Park**. Dempster Highway KM 48. Photo looks N.

Figures. We’ll see what they have to say at the Tombstone Interpretive Center, Loop.

It’s not looking good, SPHP.

Yeah, maybe we’re crazy coming all the way back here, Looper.

Speak for yourself, SPHP. I’m just along for the adventures!

8-7-23, 3:47 PM, 74ºF, Tombstone Interpretive Centre, KM 71 –

Any news, SPHP?

Yup. Not good news, though. Guess I was nuts for coming back all this way. They say the forecast is still for widespread heat and smoke. Chance of rain in a few days, but we’re not going to just sit here hoping for that to actually happen.

So, what’s the plan, SPHP?

We’re just going to keep driving N hoping for improvement, Loop.

And if we don’t get any? Then what, SPHP?

We’re committed now, Looper. Suppose we’ll simply drive all the way to Tuktoyaktuk and take a walk along the Arctic Ocean. Then we’ll have one last shot at conditions being better on the way back S.

Into the heart of the Arctic apocalypse then, SPSP?

Looks that way, Sweet Puppy.

The smoke was bad all the way through the Ogilvie Mountains. Lupe stared out the window as the RAV4 rolled past the sites of many terrific former adventures. Goldensides, Angelcomb, Surfbird, Peak 5262, Windy Pass Peak. In a thick haze, none of them bore the same appeal today. SPHP did stop for a little while at the bubbling pond several KM before Surfbird Mountain so the American Dingo could have a sniff.

At the **bubbling pond**. Photo looks E.

Lupe was already on the way down the N side of the range by the time SPHP was willing to stop for some scenic river views. Engineer Creek and its mineral-laden orange tan waters was first. When Sapper Hill (3,084 ft.) came into view, it wasn’t much farther to the Ogilvie River. All of the drought-stricken rivers and streams were running way lower than Lupe had ever seen them before.

By **Engineer Creek**, still the same orange tan color, but a mere shadow of its former self. Photo looks S.

Approaching **Sapper Hill** (R of Center). Photo looks NNW.

**Sapper Hill** (Center) from the **Ogilvie River bridge**. Photo looks ESE.

The Ogilvie River bridge goes right over the confluence with Engineer Creek, and provides an interesting view of the dramatic color contrast in the downstream direction before the waters mix. Lupe went out on the bridge for a look.

**Upstream view** of the **Ogilvie River**. Photo looks SW.

**Downstream view** right after **Engineer Creek** joins in from the R. Photo looks NNE.

Careful, Loopster, and stay close! Let’s be quick about this. Seems like there’s 5 or 10 times as much traffic as there used to be.

Everyone else is discovering the Dempster Highway, too, SPHP, ever since the all-season extension from Inuvik to the Arctic Ocean at Tuktoyaktuk.

I know it, Loop. Can’t blame them for coming, the views from the highway alone are an epic adventure!

True enough, when there isn’t an Arctic Apocalypse going on and you can actually see them, SPHP.

Yeah, that’s been the whole problem lately, hasn’t it, Looper?

Two young men were relaxing under the Ogilvie River bridge. SPHP had a chat with them.

**Sapper Hill** (Center & R) from the **Ogilvie River**. Photo looks E.

What did they say, SPHP?

They’re in the process of bicycling all the way to Tuktoyaktuk, Loop. Some people do such amazing things!

Not sure that’s such a great idea during an apocalypse, SPHP, even though we’re here, too.

Yeah, they were complaining about the never-ending smoke, Loopster. I can’t imagine how much particulate they must be inhaling. Can’t be good!

Leaving the mountains wasn’t helping. Churchward Hill was visible from the Elephant Rock rest area, a mere pullout along the Ogilvie River, but the Dempster Highway was all heat, dust, and smoke as the journey down the river valley continued.

**Churchward Hill** (Center) from the **Ogilvie River**. Photo looks NNE.

The **typical Dempster Highway Arctic apocalypse** view.

8-7-23, 8:11 PM. Dempster Highway KM 259 – Surprisingly, no one was around after the big climb along Seven Mile Hill when Lupe reached the Ogilvie Ridge rest area. Normally there was a grand view of the Ogilvie and Peel river valley, as well as the N side of the Ogilvie Mountains, from here. Nothing to be seen today except particulate.

Two ravens hoping for a handout provided amusement.

At the **Ogilvie Ridge viewpoint** and rest area.

Whatever you do, SPHP, don’t ask either of these ravens if we’ll ever see blue sky again. You know what they’ll say!

Indeed I do, Loopster. Not going to make that mistake!

With precious little to be seen here today other than the ravens and a few informational plaques on display, Lupe was soon on her way again.

Still time enough for a quick adventure today, Looper.

Really? What kind of adventure, SPHP?

The Ogilvie Ridge (3,048 ft.) high point is actually still some distance ahead. Won’t be long before we’ll be in that area. The Dempster Highway gets fairly close to the summit. Without much of an effort, we could tag it, just to say we’ve been there. What do you think?

Sounds good to me, SPHP. At least it’s something!

8-7-23, 8:40 PM, 74ºF – When a tower came into view on a nearby hill ahead, SPHP slowed down, looking for an access road on the L. Going around a bend, sure enough, there it was! SPHP parked the RAV4.

This is going to be even easier than I thought, Loop. Didn’t know that this would be a road hike.

Parked at the **start of the Ogilvie Ridge tower access road**. Photo looks NE.

Immediately upon setting out, the access road curved E, then continued that way for nearly a KM before making a sweeping 180º curve N and back around to the W. The microwave tower was once again in view ahead. The Ogilvie Ridge summit was, too, somewhat beyond it.

Heading up the access road. Photo looks E.

The **microwave tower** appears ahead. **Ogilvie Ridge summit** (R). Photo looks NW.

At the end of the access road, Lupe went around the fence enclosing the tower before heading NW across a brushy meadow toward the summit. Instead of a featureless, gently rounded dome, SPHP was surprised to see that Ogilvie Ridge’s summit sported some rock formations.

Approaching the **Ogilvie Ridge summit**. Photo looks NW.

A nice little scramble to the top. Photo looks WSW.

8-7-23, 9:05 PM, Ogilvie Ridge (3,048 ft.) – Three cairns were up here, the first one toward the SE, right where Lupe came up. The others sat next to each other a bit farther NW. The microwave tower was in view from any of them, as well as a decent-sized, flat, rocky summit plateau that extended a short distance N.

Due to the apocalypse, distant views were limited to the hazy outlines of hills a few miles away, or of nothing at all, depending on the direction.

The **microwave tower** from the **lone cairn**. Photo looks SE.

**Twin cairns** (Center) next to Lupe, **most of the summit plateau** (foreground), and the **best distant view** (L) under the circumstances. Photo looks NNW.

Congratulations, Loopster! May I shake your paw? Can’t be too many Dingoes that have ever stood on the Ogilvie Ridge summit.

Certainly, SPHP! And might I remind you that it’s chocolate coconut bar time?

Ogilvie Ridge is such an easy romp that I didn’t even bring the pack, Loop.

A chocolate coconut bar would have fit in your pocket, SPHP.

Disappointingly, an exploratory stroll about the summit plateau yielded no sign of the survey benchmark that was supposed to be up here. And that was about it for Ogilvie Ridge. After a brief stay, Lupe scrambled back down the same way she’d come up, and headed back to the road.

A look from above at the rock formations where Lupe came up. Taken from the lone cairn. Photo looks NE.

8-7-23, 11:08 PM, Ogilvie Ridge – The smoke was so terrible by the time the trip journal was caught up, how far away the wildfires of the Arctic apocalypse could actually be was a real question. Perhaps worryingly close. SPHP had spoken to quite a few people during the day. Like Lupe, everyone was going to Tuktoyaktuk, had been there already, or turned back before reaching Eagle Plains, because the smoke had been ghastly. Hard to know what tomorrow, or even tonight, would bring.

8-8-23, 6:23 AM, 62ºF, Ogilvie Ridge – Well, not much of a change so far. The smoke was still awful.

At least we didn’t burn to a crisp last night, Looper. I was beginning to wonder. Onward, Sweet Puppy?

Onward, SPHP!

During the long drive to Eagle Plains, the Dempster Highway stayed up on big rounded ridges connecting various high points along the way. It was a winding, up and down journey. SPHP actually had several more hills in mind for mid-apocalypse entertainment that the Carolina Dog could tag for some rare Yukon Territory peakbagging credit. These hills were all among the highest along their stretch of the highway.

8-8-23, 7:39 AM, 58ºF – First up was Aitch Hill (2,198 ft.), roughly 40 miles beyond the Ogilvie Ridge summit. Shortly before reaching where the Dempster Highway topped out only 0.25 mile S of Aitch’s summit, a nice roomy pullout appeared on the L.

Here, we go, Loopster! Perfect spot to stash the RAV4 during our romp.

About to set out for **Aitch Hill** on another lovely apocalypse morning. Photo looks ESE.

Taking advantage of the road, Lupe followed the Dempster Highway NE a short distance before climbing a small embankment and plunging NW into the boreal forest.

Following the Dempster Highway before venturing L into the forest. Photo looks NE.

Aitch Hill was a blast! The American Dingo had a fabulous time sniffing her way first NW, then NNE in search of the true summit through a maze of narrow open lanes between the trees and bushes. No human junk cluttering up the mountain here! Aitch Hill was still wild.

There wasn’t even a cairn when Lupe reached what seemed to be about the highest point in a vast, almost level, forested region. SPHP built one.

Lupe by her cairn at the **Aitch Hill true summit**, to the extent it could be determined. Photo looks ESE.

The point where Lupe’s new cairn sat was a little SW of where SPHP had guessed the location of the true summit when entering Aitch Hill into the Peakbagger.com database. Wandering NE, it was impossible to tell if this area was any higher. Might as well head back. Turning E in search of the highway, Lupe quickly reached the edge of a 20 foot depression.

Along the rim of the **Aitch Hill depression**. Photo looks SSE.

Staying on the high ground, the American Dingo followed the rim of the depression S until she could turn E again, soon reaching the Dempster Highway on top of a steep 20 foot high bank. Turning SW, Lupe followed this edge, too, until the bank shrank away enough to enable a road hike the rest of the way back to the RAV4.

8-8-23, 9:08 AM, 64ºF, Peak 815M (2,674 ft.) – After spotting another tower on a high point only 8 miles past Aitch Hill, SPHP made a L turn off the Dempster Highway onto a road that went 0.1 mile to where it split into 3 roads. Two of them led directly to a huge gravel highway maintenance yard. The third road angled uphill off to the R.

That must be the way to the tower we saw, Looper.

About to set off for **Peak 815M** via the **road seen at far R**. Photo looks N.

After a bit of steepness right at the start, Lupe followed the road’s gentle incline NE to where it hooked ESE the rest of the way to the tower at Peak 815M’s summit less than 0.5 mile from the RAV4.

The **microwave tower atop Peak 815M**. Photo looks SE.

Looks like the true summit is inside the fence, Loopster.

So it does, SPHP, and you know what? How much higher can it be than where we’re standing right now? A few feet at most. Close enough for Dingo work, I’m claiming it! Shake my paw, and we’re outta here!

8-8-23, 10:14 AM, 65ºF – The morning’s final peak was the best, and by far the most daring, Arctic apocalyptic experience of all. 11.5 miles past Peak 815M, SPHP turned L again onto a wide side road directly across the Dempster Highway from Corbett Hill’s NW slope.

Parked along the side road. **Dempster Highway** (L). Photo looks S.

Are you out of your mind, SPHP? It’s still on fire!

Just a little smoke, Loopster. We’re used to it by now, aren’t we?

Where there’s smoke there’s fire, SPHP! Let’s skip this one.

Eh, looks to me like the fire largely burnt itself out in the past few days, Looper. We’ll be fine. It’s only a little over 0.5 mile to the summit. Won’t take us long. If anything flares up at all, or if it gets breezy, we’ll come right back. Promise.

The American Dingo was leery, but followed SPHP up into the freshly charred forest.

Starting up **Corbett Hill’s NW slope**. Photo looks SE.

Lupe soon got used to the blackened tundra. Showers of brown needles fell off the trees whenever SPHP brushed up against them. Only parts of Corbett Hill had burned, leaving patches of both charred and untouched tundra and forest.

Exploring still smoldering **Corbett Hill**. Photo looks E.

Lupe passed several 6 to 8 foot deep pits, 20 feet wide and 40 feet long, dug by machinery for some unfathomable reason. There were no roads to them. More than halfway to the summit, she reached a big clearing.

The big clearing on the way to the summit. Photo looks SE.

If this doesn’t look like an Arctic apocalypse, I don’t know what does, SPHP!

Have to agree, Looper. Seems incredible, doesn’t it? Sure isn’t what the word “Arctic” typically brings to mind.

8-8-23, 10:43 AM, 65ºF, Corbett Hill (2,497 ft.) – Lupe rested comfortably on a patch of unburned tundra next to a metal tripod at the apparent true summit. A survey marker was centered directly below the tripod.

Congratulations, Loopster! Corbett Hill! Told ya we’d make it. Safe as a mouse in church.

Maybe so, SPHP. It’s certainly been an unusual adventure. Kind of freaked me out, but I don’t really mind it at all now. Still might be a good idea to head back soon, though.

Oh, we’re going to, Loop. Eagle Plains is only 3 miles from Corbett Hill. I’m looking forward to lunch at the Arctic Circle Restaurant. I’ll make sure you get a treat, too.

Well, what are we waiting for then? Onward! SPHP, ho!

8-8-23, 11:38 AM, 68ºF, Dempster Highway KM 369 – Eagle Plains was sure different from the other times Lupe had been here. Usually it was soaking wet and frigid, sometimes snowing hard and even threatening to become a blizzard. In these modern days of the Arctic apocalypse, though, Eagle Plains was smoky, warm, and dry.

After SPHP filled the RAV4 with fuel ($2.15 CAN per liter), Lupe got to go into the Eagle Plains Hotel with SPHP. She didn’t enter the restaurant, but got to meet some of the denizens in the lobby.

Outside the entrance to the **Arctic Circle Restaurant**.

SPHP did enter the restaurant. Had a Reuben sandwich and a Coke.

Entering the **Arctic Circle Restaurant**.

Prices were high, service was slow, portions were small, but everyone was friendly, and it was good! The Arctic Circle Restaurant and Eagle Plains Hotel were the only such services between Dawson City and Inuvik, an island of civilization in a truly vast wilderness. Lupe and SPHP were lucky to be here! (Note: Fuel is available from 2 automated stations at the start of the Dempster Highway.)

8-8-23, 12:58 PM, 71ºF, Eagle Plains – As promised, Lupe got her treat, a Dingo stick. A white dog outside the hotel got one, too.

Nice, but next time get me a Reuben sandwich, too, SPHP. What’s next on our apocalypse tour?

Only 35 KM to the Arctic Circle, Loopster. We’ll be there within the hour!