Angelcomb Peak, Tombstone Territorial Park & the Midnight Dome, Dawson City, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-23-18

Day 20 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

5:45 AM, km 107.6 at the East Blackstone River rest area – Cold!  Small wonder.  Ice on the windshield, and new snow on the G6.  A quick step outside was discouraging.  Even chillier out here, and as always, the skies were overcast.  May as well hit the snooze button again.  Lupe and SPHP retreated back inside, and ducked under the blankets.

A chilly start to the new day at km 107.6 of the Dempster Highway. Too cold to bother with details like focusing the camera!

9:18 AM, 31°F, km 94 at the two-tier bubbly pond pullout – Still overcast, but the clouds are tinged blue.  If the sun could just warm things up a bit, maybe some of this stuff would burn off?  SPHP made short work of the last Ensure, and heated up some soup.  Meanwhile, Lupe wandered the edges of the big pullout sniffing among the tall bushes.

11:46 AM, 42°F, km 81 at the Angelcomb trailhead – Good news and bad news!  The good news was that the day had warmed up.  Even better, the sun had broken through!  Blue skies here and there.  As SPHP had driven S on the Dempster Highway, the Ogilvie Mountains were gorgeous, and looking so enticing!

By the time breakfast was over, the Ogilvie Mountains looked like they might be about to escape the cloud cover.
On the drive S, encouraging amounts of blue sky were appearing.

The bad news was that the weather wasn’t consistent.  Still plenty of clouds hanging around.  The mood kept changing depending on which way they went.  Lupe had two peakbagging options nearby to select from.  A longer, more difficult route to Mount Chester Henderson via Charcoal Creek Ridge, or a shorter trail up Angelcomb Peak (6,300 ft.).

Then again, still plenty of clouds hanging around.

With the weather as variable as it was, maybe sticking with the shorter trail up Angelcomb made the most sense?  On the road S, the Carolina Dog decided the question once and for all, by suddenly puking up on her blankets.  The other bad news!  Yeah, better stick with the shorter trail.

Lupe waits near the Dempster Highway during a quick stop to clean up her blankets. She seemed to feel much better immediately after throwing up, but maybe it was best to go for the easiest peak today, in case she got worse again.

On the E side of the Dempster Highway at about km 81, a closed yellow gate across a wide side road blocked access to a highway maintenance area used for gravel storage.  This side road effectively serves as a trailhead for an unofficial trail up Angelcomb Peak (6,300 ft.).  Even though several other vehicles were already here when Lupe arrived, SPHP had plenty of room to park the G6.

The American Dingo was in sunshine, but Angelcomb Peak was still in the clouds as Lupe set out.

Setting out for Angelcomb Peak. Photo looks NE.

Beyond the yellow gate, Lupe quickly came to a big flat area with a huge mound of gravel stacked on one side.  Information SPHP had seen online indicated that Lupe ought to go toward the R (SE) side of the gravel yard to look for a trail.  However, a stack of big boulders sat over that way.

Straight ahead toward Angelcomb Peak, a gentle slope covered with bushes overlooked the gravel yard.  A couple of people up there were working their way R (SE) toward the area the trail was supposed to be in.  Maybe they were already on the trail?  The route they were taking certainly looked easier than dealing with the boulders.

Loop went straight on past the mound of gravel, and got up onto the same slope.  The bushes were chest high on SPHP, and a complete jungle for Lupe.  The trail was nowhere to be seen, but there were lanes among the bushes that were relatively easy to follow.  The people had vanished.  Lupe and SPHP headed off to the R, in the same general direction they had taken.  Sure enough, within minutes, Loopster did come to a trail.

The trail was in decent shape, and gained elevation at a moderate pace.  It headed E up the S side of a little draw toward a high point not too far away.  As Lupe got higher, the bushes began to thin out.  By the time she was close to the high point, they were already becoming scarce.  Back to the W, Looper could see the gravel yard, the Dempster Highway, and the wide upper East Blackstone River valley.

On the S side of the little draw near the start of the unofficial trail to Angelcomb Peak. Photo looks ENE.
The gravel yard Lupe started from is beyond her. The wide valley the East Blackstone River originates from (Center) is across the Dempster Highway. Photo looks W.

The trail didn’t go all the way to the first high point it had been heading toward.  However, only a short side trip was required to go visit it, so Lupe did.  The view of Angelcomb Peak to the N was encouraging.  The clouds had lifted enough so that even the summit was sort of in sight.

The trail heads toward Angelcomb Peak’s S ridge (R). The summit (Center) looked like it might soon be cloud-free. Photo looks N.
Checking out the first little high point. Photo looks NNE.

Lupe returned to the trail, which now headed up Angelcomb Peak’s S ridge.  The next phase of the journey was to get up to a big, relatively flat, rocky shelf that was quite a bit higher.  The trail headed right for it.

Heading up the S ridge. The flat rocky area (R) is an intermediate goal en route to the summit (Center). Photo looks N.
We’re almost to the flatter rocky part of the ridge now! Photo looks NNE.

Even before Loopster reached the first high point, someone had been standing way up on the rocky shelf.  As Lupe got close, a woman was coming down.  SPHP talked to her briefly.  Her husband was still up there watching Dahl sheep through his field glasses.  Pressing onward, Lupe and SPHP soon met Michael Kawerninski.

Michael was friendly, and encouraged SPHP to take a look through his binoculars at 3 Dahl sheep grazing on the slopes of Trapper Mountain (6,628 ft.) to the E.  The sheep were mere tiny white specks, so far away they were difficult to spot without the glasses.  Lupe gave no indication that she was even aware of their existence.

Just like Lupe, Michael and his wife had been all the way to Tuktoyaktuk on the Arctic Ocean, so it was fun talking with him.  They were from Smithers, British Columbia, which Lupe has been to several times.  In fact, Lupe had passed through Smithers on her way N.  Michael was about to follow his wife down, but said he would leave information at the G6 about hiking trails in the Smithers area.

When Michael left, Lupe went on.  The rocky shelf wasn’t completely flat, and the trail wasn’t always right on top of it, but this region was much easier than what was ahead.  Beyond the rocky area, the trail steepened considerably.  Before Lupe even got that far, the sky suddenly started clearing to the E.  The fog blew away.  At one point, Lupe had such a great view of Trapper Mountain, that SPHP thought maybe she could go climb it after summiting Angelcomb!

The sky begins to clear over by Trapper Mountain. Photo looks NE.
Look at that! Maybe we can go climb Trapper Mountain next? Photo looks E.

Excited and spurred on by that notion, Lupe’s now steepening trek up Angelcomb Peak continued.  However, the clouds soon returned.  The next time SPHP glanced over toward Trapper Mountain, it had vanished again!  Lupe could still see to the S and W, though.

The trail didn’t always stay right up on the ridgeline. Here Lupe is W of, and a bit below, the rocky shelf. Photo looks N toward the summit (Center).
Goldensides Mountain, which Lupe had climbed in 2017, is on the L. The Dempster Highway and North Fork Pass are on the R. Photo looks S.
Getting to the final push up Angelcomb Peak. Photo looks NW.
Mount Robert Henderson (6,998 ft.) appears briefly in the distance on the L. Blackcap Mountain (6,000 ft.) is at Center. Goldensides Mountain (6,000 ft.) is beyond Lupe on the R. Photo looks SE.
North Fork Pass and the Dempster Highway. Photo looks S.
Upper East Blackstone River valley with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.
Angelcomb Peak’s S ridge. This is the way Lupe came up. Photo looks SSE.

On the final steep ascent, the path faded and became braided.  Several times SPHP lost it completely.  Didn’t matter, since it was perfectly clear the route went straight on up to the sharp peak ahead.  That was about the only thing that was clear, though.  Angelcomb Peak (6,300 ft.) was still in the clouds.  During the last 200 feet of elevation gain, Loopster climbed in a cold fog.

Poor Loop didn’t complain, but she wasn’t having much fun.  She felt sick again, and threw up once more.  With encouragement from SPHP, she persevered and managed to reach the summit of Angelcomb Peak.

Feeling sick in the cold fog, but still heading higher. Fortunately, not much farther now!

The top of Angelcomb Peak was an airy, rocky, little hillock.  Most of the hill was covered with dirt or scant vegetation from which a number of rocks protruded a foot or two higher.  Two rocks, quite close together and nearly equal in elevation, formed the true summit.  They were right along the edge of a fog-filled chasm of indeterminable depth to the NE.  A ragged ridgeline to the NW vanished into fog, too.

Despite the gloomy conditions and not feeling so great, the American Dingo immediately perched up on the highest rocks to claim her rather nauseating peakbagging success.

Success! Lupe at the true summit of Angelcomb Peak. Photo looks NW.
On the same summit rock, but this time looking NE.

Only a minute later, the fog began to thin a little.  More of the NW ridge could be seen.  Loop could also see to the S and W.  However, virtually nothing could be seen to the N or E yet.

A minute later, more of the NW ridge came into view. Photo looks NW.
The East Blackstone River valley. Photo looks WSW.
The summit of Angelcomb Peak – just about the whole thing. Photo looks ESE.
Well, we made it! Hope you don’t feel as queasy about it as I do!

After a quick initial look around, SPHP sat leaning against the highest rocks.  Lupe curled up on a patch of dirt nearby.  A 10 mph S breeze felt quite chilly.  Between the breeze, the fog, and the cold hard ground, the Carolina Dog was soon persuaded to get up on SPHP’s lap, which was warmer and more comfortable, and where SPHP could stroke her.

Since Lupe was only 200 feet up into the fog, SPHP figured breaks in the clouds might appear fairly often.  Visibility was poor overall, but with a little patience Looper might get some pretty decent, if brief, views.

This theory worked out fairly well.  Often the fog was so thick, Lupe couldn’t see a thing, but it never stayed that way.  One after another, clouds streamed on by, suddenly revealing big views.  The views never lasted, either.  The next cloud was always on the way.

The views that did appear were almost always to the S or W.  Lupe never saw Trapper Mountain to the E again.  At one point, Angelcomb’s whole NW ridge was completely out in the open, and toward the end of Lupe’s stay, the fog did clear out of the deep valley to the NE enough to be able to see the bottom of that formerly hidden chasm.

Off to the S, Lupe sometimes saw Goldensides Mountain (6,000 ft.), a terrific peak she had climbed almost a year ago, and its close neighbor Blackcap Mountain (6,000 ft.).

Angelcomb Peak’s NW ridge during a brief moment out in the clear. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.
The East Blackstone River and ponds near North Fork Pass. Photo looks SW.
Looking down Angelcomb’s short SW ridge. The gravel yard where Lupe started out from is on the L. Photo looks SW.
Most of the fog finally drifts away revealing the valley to the NE.

After 30 minutes at the summit of Angelcomb Peak, Lupe was feeling better.  She’d had enough, though, and was ready to start down.

The S ridge Lupe had come up (L) from Angelcomb’s summit. She would go back down this same way. Photo looks S.
At a dramatic point shortly after beginning the descent. Photo looks S.

Lupe went right back down the S ridge, the same way she had come up.  The views improved at first, as she got below the cloud cover.  By now, though, there wasn’t any blue sky anywhere.

Lupe on the descent. Blackcap Mountain (L) and Goldensides Mountain (R) are both near the (Center). Photo looks SSE.
Blackcap Mountain (L) and Goldensides Mountain (R) with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSE.
A glance over at the ridge leading to Trapper Mountain (R). Photo looks E.

Lupe was definitely feeling better.  She ran about sniffing and exploring, exhibiting no signs of her earlier problems.  The descent went quickly.  The American Dingo stayed on the trail all the way to the very end to see where it actually came out at.  In the little draw the path had come up, she came to a 10 foot drop into a gully that appeared to have been washed out during heavy rains.

The washed out gully at the start of the trail. Photo looks W.

A two second scramble down into the gully ultimately led to the pile of boulders in the SE part of the maintenance yard.  When Lupe got back to the G6, SPHP found the note Michael Kawerninski had promised under the windshield wiper.  (4:13 PM, 43°F)

5:16 PM, 42°F, km 71.5 at the Tombstone Interpretive Centre – With so many clouds, and Lupe not at her best, Angelcomb Peak had certainly been the right choice today!  After getting back to the G6, SPHP had driven S to the Tombstone Interpretive Centre to see what the weather forecast was for tomorrow.  Maybe after a good night’s rest, Lupe could do Mount Chester Henderson?  That would be awesome!

The weather forecast posted in the Tombstone Interpretive Centre, dashed that hope.  60% chance of showers tomorrow, 100% chance of rain the next day, then one nice day when it was supposed to be sunny.  After that, 60% chance of showers again.

Forget it!  Not sticking around for days hoping for a single nice one.  Sadly, Lupe’s adventures along the Dempster Highway, and the new all-season road to Tuktoyaktuk and the Arctic Ocean were over.  Angelcomb Peak was the grand finale!  All that remained was the drive back to the start of the Dempster Highway.  What a fantastic, memorable trip it had been, though!

6:32 PM, 59°F, km 0 at the start of the Dempster Highway – SPHP couldn’t believe how much better the weather was S of Tombstone Territorial Park.  Blue skies appeared.  The temperature soared to an amazing 61°F!  Lupe bathed in brilliant sunshine.  SPHP fueled up the G6 at the junction with the North Klondike Highway.

Heading W on the North Klondike Highway to Dawson City, it all lasted 10 glorious minutes.  Back under cloudy skies.  Oh, well!  At least it was still the warmest out it had been in many days.

In Dawson City, Lupe enjoyed an hour spent window shopping.  SPHP broke down and bought an Alaska burger, whatever that was, at Dino’s Restaurant.  An Alaska burger turned out to be a fish sandwich with fries.  Lupe couldn’t stomach fish yet, and turned her nose up at it.

At a Dawson City park near the Yukon River.

9:50 PM, 50°F at Midnight Dome – One last late peakbagging adventure to take care of!  Just E of Dawson City was a L turn off the North Klondike Highway onto Dome Road.  Dome Road was paved and wound all the way up Midnight Dome (2,887 ft.), a big hill overlooking Dawson City and the mighty Yukon River.

The end of the road made a loop past a viewpoint where a couple of plaques told about Dawson City, and related an entertaining tale about how Midnight Dome got its name.The views of Dawson City and the Yukon River from Midnight Dome were lovely, and the peakbagging was a cinch.  From the viewpoint by the road, Lupe only had to gain 20 feet of elevation on a short stroll to the top of a mostly barren, rounded hill.  On top of the hill was a single perfectly ordinary picnic table, and a huge, rustic wooden bench.

After testing out the bench, which easily supported a single American Dingo, Lupe returned to the G6.

Dawson City and the Yukon River from Midnight Dome. The Klondike River joins in from the L (E). Photo looks upstream (SW).
The Yukon River. Photo looks downstream (NW).

On the back side of the Midnight Dome opposite the viewpoint, but still high on the mountain, there was a rest area where the loop at the end of the road started.  Across the road from an outhouse was a decent place to park.  A couple of other vehicles were parked here already, but there was still room for the G6.  It was getting late.  Why not?  Loopster could spend the night on Midnight Dome!

Didn’t take long to get settled in.  The rain started half an hour later.

On Midnight Dome, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-23-18

Links:

Next Adventure                     Prior Adventure

Tombstone Territorial Park

Tombstone Territorial Park Map

The Dempster Highway Travelogue

Surfbird Mountain, Ogilvie Mountains, Tombstone Territorial Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (9-4-17)

Goldensides, Ogilvie Mountains, Tombstone Territorial Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (9-5-17)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Peak 5262, Tombstone Territorial Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-22-18)

Day 19 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

8-21-18, 10:44 PM, 32°F – Wind and cold rain continued, as Lupe and SPHP left Eagle Plains ahead of the expected blizzard.  Within the first 10 minutes, two vehicles came the opposite direction, still heading N on the Dempster Highway, on the verge of reaching the safety of Eagle Plains.  After that, there was no traffic at all.  For more than half an hour, the G6 splashed on through countless puddles as the rain came down.  Outside, the temperature never varied.  Always 32°F.11:30 PM, 32°F – The dreaded blizzard had arrived!  Snowing hard, but not sticking to the road yet.  The blowing snow was difficult to stare into, a confusing, ever-changing, pattern of bright white streaks in the headlights against a black as deep as any stormy night anywhere.

Soon snow was clinging to bushes along the highway.  Accumulations of slush started heaping up along the shoulders.  Great sprays of water sent up from potholes sometimes inundated the windshield, momentarily blocking all view of the road before the wipers swept the water away.

Slush spread across the entire road, then turned white.  On all the uphill sections, of which there were many, the traction control warning light started coming on, although the G6 didn’t seem to be slipping too badly yet.  Only a matter of time, though, if the storm continued to rage.

Meanwhile, the G6 plowed along at a fairly steady 25 to 30 mph.  The highway wound up, down, and all around one unseen hill after another.  Fuel economy plunged as the G6 battled increasing accumulations of snow and slush.  Maintaining speed on the uphill runs started to become difficult.

Afraid of how soft the shoulders must be, SPHP drove down the middle of the road.  Virtually nothing could be seen alongside the highway now.  As the snow deepened, SPHP started having a hard time telling where the road even was.  Reflective km markers showed up well, but far too infrequently to be of assistance.

Sooner or later, the G6 wasn’t going to make it up one of these hills.  The prospect of getting stuck in the the blinding snowstorm in the middle of the Dempster Highway in the dead of the night was terrifying.  However, SPHP saw no pullouts where it would be possible to safely get off the road.  Leaving the highway wouldn’t be all that wonderful, either.  No doubt, it would mean being hopelessly snowed-in within no time.

The situation was becoming dire.  Should have stayed at Eagle Plains!  Days ago on the way N, Lupe had stopped at a huge pullout at Ogilvie Ridge.  If the G6 could make it that far, Ogilvie Ridge would at least be a safe place to get off the highway.  In this blizzard, though, SPHP wasn’t sure it would even be possible to recognize the pullout.

Suddenly, there was movement!  A dimly perceived patchwork of light and dark was moving in the same direction as the G6 on the L side of the road.  SPHP caught only a glimpse of it, as the G6 went by.  A huge ghost of a moose!  The American Dingo hadn’t seen a thing.  For miles she had been trying to snooze as the G6 bumped, slipped, and lurched along.

8-22-18, 1:30 AM – Doomed!  Heavy snow.  Blizzard conditions.  A wild wind was whipping the fast accumulating snow into drifts forming on the road.  Huge snowflakes were a blinding white.  Everything else was pitch black.  Navigation was by long poles with reflectors on them that had fortuitously appeared on the L side of the nearly invisible highway a short time ago.

Would have been stuck already, if it hadn’t been for one thing.  There didn’t seem to be any more uphill sections.  For what couldn’t be much longer, the G6 was still moving.  Inside, the Carolina Dog was snoozing peacefully, blissfully unaware of the storm.

1:50 AM –  70 to 75 miles S of Eagle Plains, SPHP caught a glimpse of a pullout on the L.  Passed right on by it before even realizing what it was.  That might have been Ogilvie Ridge!  The road began dropping steadily, even steeply.  Yeah, that confirmed it!  This was Seven Mile hill!

No going back now, but maybe it didn’t matter?  As the G6 lost elevation, conditions were rapidly improving.

2:00 AM –  Luck of the Dingo!  Amazing!  Drove out of it!  Heavy snow was now only a moderate rain.  34°F!  Down in the Ogilvie River valley, the Dempster Highway was sloppy wet, but snow-free.  The G6 bounced along through potholes sending up sprays of water as before.  Passed a rest area at Davies Creek, but didn’t stop.  Windy Pass and North Fork Pass are still ahead.

The rain tapered off before reaching the bridge over the Ogilvie River, but soon after crossing it, the snow started in again on the long approach to Windy Pass.  The adrenaline rush of the white-knuckle drive prior to Ogilvie Ridge was fading.  The weather this far S was no where near as bad as it had been earlier.  Not snowing that hard.  Starting to seem like things are actually under control.

2:56 AM – A huge, level, snow-free pullout had appeared on the R.  Likely a road maintenance area.  Whatever.  Hadn’t made it to Windy Pass yet, but SPHP was weary.  The crisis seemed to be over.  Time to join Lupe in Dingo Dreamland!

9:36 AM, 32°F – A certain well-rested Dingo wanted out.  Fine, fine!  SPHP let her go.  Blizzard?  What blizzard?  No snow here!  Sure enough, Lupe was at a highway maintenance area somewhere close to km 171 on the W side of the Dempster Highway.  Any snow that had fallen here last night had all melted as it hit.

Still no telling what Lupe might find up at Windy Pass, though.  Might be tons of snow up there?  Couldn’t see a thing down here, except the usual fog and mist of the far N.

Had the blizzard been only a bad dream? Despite all the snow she’d seen before falling asleep, Lupe woke up to a snow-free world at a road maintenance area near km 171 of the Dempster Highway.
Another day, another foggy start. Seems like that happens a lot in the Yukon. Of course, the way things had been going last night, it could have been worse. Much worse!

10:01 AM, Windy Pass, km 152.8 – The crisis actually was over.  Lupe had been less than 20 km from Windy Pass.  She arrived to find more fog and mist, but no snow, even up here.  The big ridges S of the pass leading to Windy Pass Peak (5,249 ft.) and Peak 5906 were a little white, but that was it.

Maybe a blizzard was still raging up at Eagle Plains and the Arctic Circle, but the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood had managed a successful escape!

Back at Windy Pass where Lupe had enjoyed such a great day on her exploration of Windy Pass Peak, Distincta Peak & Peak 5906 on the way N. The peaks were all hidden by fog this morning, but there was almost no snow. Photo looks S.

Lupe resumed her snooze at Windy Pass, while SPHP straightened up the G6, cleaned windows, and dealt with a few technical issues.  Then the journey S continued.  What to do next wasn’t entirely clear.  The mist ended, and fog was decreasing as the cloud cover began to lift, but the mountain peaks were still hidden.

Heading up the Blackstone River valley SE of Windy Pass. Photo looks SW.

1:36 PM, 40°F – Lupe and SPHP stopped at the two-tier pullout on the E side of the Dempster Highway SE of Surfbird Mountain (5,300 ft.).  This was a favorite spot, discovered in 2017, where there was a stream and a bubbling pond.

Lunch time!  Chili and chocolate coconut bars were on the menu.  The American Dingo kindly helped out with both, displaying considerable enthusiasm for the project.  Afterwards, she explored among the bushes, and chased tennis balls SPHP threw for her.

SPHP pondered the situation.  Should Loop go on to Dawson City?  She still had more mountains to climb here in Tombstone Territorial Park, but as is so often the case, once again most of the Ogilvie Range was in the clouds.  Surfbird Mountain wasn’t, but Lupe had climbed Surfbird last year.

Maybe it made sense to give Peak 5262 another shot?  Stymied by bogs when Lupe had tried it on the way N nearly a week ago, she hadn’t even made it to the base of the mountain.  However, it had looked like she might have been successful, if only SPHP had led her to the next ridge N instead of the way she’d actually gone.

Peak 5262 was back N, but only a dozen km.  The mountain sat isolated out beyond the rest of the Ogilvie Range.  The sky was looking better in that direction.  If Peak 5262 worked out today, conditions might improve enough so Lupe could climb higher peaks around here tomorrow?

3:09 PM, 39°F, Blackstone River rest stop at km 107.6 – Yeah, coming back for another attempt on Peak 5262 made sense.  It was too late in the day, and the weather wasn’t cooperative enough, to doing anything else.  The only other option would have been to keep driving, and the Carolina Dog was sick of being cooped up in the G6.  SPHP parked at the now familiar rest stop along the East Blackstone River.

The weather was improving as Lupe set out for a second attempt on Peak 5262.  This time, SPHP had her go N along the Dempster Highway far enough to get past all the streams preventing access to the second ridge W of the road.

W of the Dempster Highway starting for Peak 5262. Photo looks W.

Even though the second ridge was a bit higher than the first one, it still wasn’t very high.  Lupe was soon up on top.  From her prior experience with the first ridge, she knew what to expect next.  A long, beautiful, but far more wearying march toward Peak 5262 than a nearly imperceptible slope merited.

The top of the ridge was a vast plain of spongy, tussocky tundra.  On the way W, Lupe sought out minor highs points which might provide firmer footing.  She came to one drainage that forced her to make a detour to the N.  Although the top of the ridge looked flat as a pancake, it was anything but.  Endless, unstable tussocks surrounded by holes made every step an adventure.

The American Dingo persevered, though, making steady progress.  Blue sky was beginning to appear!  This was turning into a fantastic day!  Having seen the lay of the land once before, SPHP was buoyed by hope that Lupe would enjoy success this time around.

Maybe we’re going to make it this time? Looking good so far! Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.

The critical point of the journey came as Lupe drew near the W end of the ridge.  Once she had made it far enough to see the broad saddle area between this low ridge and the base of Peak 5262, it became clear that she needed to go NW staying up on the high ground along the edge as long as possible before dropping down to the saddle.

Getting close to the W end of this ridge now. Photo looks W.
Close to the far NW end of the low ridge. The plan is to head for Peak 5262’s long NE ridge seen beyond Lupe. Photo looks WNW.
A pond near the W end of the ridge Lupe has been traveling. Photo looks SW.

Upon dropping down to the saddle, Lupe discovered small streams and bogs no matter which way she went.  SPHP tussock-hopped past the first bog and small stream, while Lupe simply waded through.

However, getting through all the bogs wasn’t as easy as it seemed.  Even after crossing the broad saddle, Lupe kept coming to more drainages and bogs as the terrain started sloping up again toward the base of Peak 5262.  Luckily, none proved to be insurmountable obstacles.

Peak 5262 was just a big hill!  Surely the American Dingo was going to make it now!  As Looper worked her way up an increasingly steep slope toward Peak 5262’s NE ridge, confidence soared.

On the tundra, beyond the worst of the wetlands. Photo looks NE.
Looking E back in the direction Lupe had come from. The high point at the NW end of the first ridge she had been on is the minor rise (Center) just beyond the foreground.

The NE ridge was still quite a march away.  Lupe kept having to dodge bogs, drainages, and unexpected holes full of water.  The tundra dried out to a degree as the climb steepened, but remained spongy, requiring significant effort.

The beautiful tundra, already sporting fall colors.

Lupe climbed and climbed.  Though the terrain wasn’t all that steep, it was exhausting work.  SPHP kept hoping the tundra would give way to rockier ground, but for a very long way it didn’t.  The Carolina Dog came to a number of high points, but each time hopes that she had reached the NE ridgeline were dashed.

Finally, lanes of firmer ground did appear.  These lanes had a base of very small rocks, the first rocks Lupe had come to on the entire journey thus far.  Low red and gray-green vegetation grew on the rockier terrain, looking just like what Loop had seen a year ago in Alaska when she’d gone on her Stroll to the North Slope Knoll.

The narrow lanes of firmer ground helped tremendously.  SPHP was able to quicken the pace significantly.  Soon Lupe really was up on the NE ridgeline.

Peak 5262 as Lupe nears the NE ridgeline. The backpack sits on the shorter vegetation of the rockier ground. Staying to the R of the drainage seen ahead, Lupe ultimately climbed to the high point directly beyond her from the R. Photo looks SW.

SPHP had expected plenty of rockier terrain up on the NE ridgeline, but that wasn’t what Lupe found.  In fact, the ridgeline wasn’t much of a line at all.  Ahead was a very broad and steeper slope, comprised almost entirely of more deep, spongy tundra.

Peak 5262 had a lovely dusting of snow on top.  The colors of the tundra below were absolutely gorgeous.  However, it was now clear that Lupe wasn’t going to reach any significantly firmer ground until she got way up on Peak 5262’s steepest slopes near the summit.

Having anticipated an easier time on a rocky ridgeline, the trudge higher actually began as a tougher march than before.

Looking back down the NE ridge. Chapman Lake is on the L. Photo looks NE.

No turning back now, though!  Onward!

Up ahead, a long line of bushes grew along a drainage.  Lupe stayed to the R (NW) of it.  However, this drainage split into two separate courses higher up.  Lupe had to cross the smaller channel to the W.  Happily, the smaller channel turned out to be dry, and not a problem.  From then on, there were no real obstacles.  Lupe angled SW toward a high, short ridge to the W, and upon reaching it, completed her ascent by switchbacking up the N face of the mountain.

Even the upper slopes of Peak 5262 turned out not to be rocky, but at least the tundra wasn’t as thick.  Peak 5262 had another surprise in store for Lupe, too.  The dusting of snow near the top of the mountain wasn’t snow at all.  Apparently last night’s blizzard had been an ice storm here.  Freezing rain had coated the tundra with an amazing display of ice.

Where Lupe first reached the ice-encrusted tundra, the ice was melting. Higher up that wasn’t the case.
About to start up the N face of Peak 5262. Lupe is already quite high on the mountain. Photo looks SSW.
An icy display. Far more magnificent specimens were higher up.
Looking down on the Blackstone River valley. Chapman Lake on the R. Photo looks NNE.
Getting there! Last push to the top is dead ahead. Photo looks SW.
An icy wonderland.

The top of Peak 5262 is rounded.  Lupe arrived upon a summit area acres in size.  The true summit was W of where the Carolina Dog came up, and was quite easy to spot.  Not far from the N edge sat a short ridge resembling a marvelously bejeweled mini-pingo.  This little summit ridge was only a few feet higher than the rest of the mountain.

The terrain begins leveling out as Lupe reaches a vast summit region. Photo looks W.
The true summit (Center) comes into view. Photo looks W.
Lupe reaches the wonderfully ice-encrusted true summit of Peak 5262. Photo looks S.
At the beautifully decorated true summit. Photo looks W.
Lupe on Peak 5262. Photo looks W.

When Lupe had first reached the NE ridge, large regions of blue sky had been expanding to the N.  For a short while the Carolina Dog had been in sunshine.  Now, though, the weather was clearly deteriorating.  Couldn’t have been any more than 32°F.  The incredible crystalline icy display was not melting up here.  The slight N breeze felt cold.

Views from isolated, remote Peak 5262 were tremendous!  Higher peaks were in the distance in many directions, but their summits were lost in clouds that already covered the whole sky.  Fog was spreading to the S, although Surfbird Mountain (5,300 ft.) was still in sight.

To celebrate Loopster’s peakbagging success, SPHP shared 3 chocolate coconut bars with her.  They were frozen so stiffly that it was hard to break off chunks.

High atop Peak 5262, the darkening sky, cold breeze, and surrounding vast, desolate solitude produced a sudden sense of gloom and danger.  It was absolutely incredible up here, yet SPHP grew uneasy.  Lupe was a long way from the G6.  Mountains were disappearing from the horizon.  The cloud cover seemed to be closing in.  If the morning’s fog returned, it would be easy to get lost.

Would have been fun to have the luxury of letting a sublime hour or two go by up on Peak 5262, but it didn’t seem like Lupe could afford to linger up here too long.  Might as well have a quick look around, though.  Loop ventured out to the far W end of the summit area.  The Blackstone River was in view, even if the mountains weren’t.

The Blackstone River from the W edge of Peak 5262. Photo looks SW.
Looking SW up the Blackstone River valley with help from the telephoto lens.
View to the W with help from the telephoto lens.
The top of Peak 5262 from the W edge. The true summit is the little rise seen directly beyond Lupe. Photo looks E.

The scenes were all impressively forlorn and desolate, but the clouds weren’t an awful lot higher than Peak 5262 now.  Lupe returned to the true summit for another brief stay and final look around.

Near the true summit (L) again. Photo looks SE.
Gorgeous now, but it wouldn’t have been much fun to have been up here last night!
Looking WNW.
The Blackstone River valley from the N edge of Peak 5262. Photo looks NNW.
Chapman Lake (Center). Photo looks NE.

On the return, Lupe varied the first part of her route.  Instead of going back down the steep N face, she followed the E ridge, which provided a more gradual descent.

Starting down, but still along the N edge. Lupe had originally come up the rather steep slope beyond her from the L. Chapman Lake is on the L. Lomond Lake is far away on the R. Photo looks NE.
Lupe began her descent going down the E ridge (R). Photo looks E.
Lomond Lake (Center) in the distance. The flat ridge Lupe had started out on is the slightly higher ground just L of the ponds on the R. Photo looks ENE.
On the E ridge. The G6 is parked down by the river just about straight beyond Lupe. Photo looks E with help from the telephoto lens.

As soon as the American Dingo realized that she was actually on her way down, she became quite energized.  Lupe ran and ran!  She sniffed and explored, displaying great stamina and enthusiasm.  The descent was a lot easier.  SPHP made much faster progress.  The spongy tundra merely served as a cushion, instead of an impediment.  From above, SPHP was better at picking out drier, more efficient routes.

The E ridge soon curved NE creating a bowl to the W.  This bowl was the origin of the last two drainages Lupe had come to on the way up.  To get back to the lower portion of the NE ridge, SPHP led Loop down into the bowl so she could stay far enough W to bypass the deeper drainage.  By the time Lupe made it to the lower end of the bowl, she had picked up her former route.

The long march still ahead was merely a retracement of what had been done before.  Lupe eventually turned ESE, leaving the NE ridgeline.  As the slope decreased, the labor of traveling the tussocky tundra returned.  Back to dodging bogs, streams, and wet holes.

Despite the effort required, the return was a beautiful time.  Lupe was happy, roaming free in an unspoiled world.  SPHP was thrilled she had finally made it to Peak 5262!  The sky remained overcast, but it wasn’t nearly so cold out as it had been back up on the mountain.  The brooding clouds never came down far enough to threaten the lowlands with fog.

Though always challenging to move through, the tundra was amazing.  Pristine beauty in all directions, including at one’s paws or feet.  Lupe discovered a pink blossom so rare no others like it had been seen on the whole long journey.  She found an ancient caribou antler, and learned that even excellent dental health isn’t everything.

One in a zillion! A rare pink blossom like no other Lupe had seen on the entire journey.
Roaming free on the way back.
Dental health is important, but it isn’t everything. Someone died with perfect teeth!

The morning’s mist and fog hadn’t held much promise, but Lupe’s ascent of lonely Peak 5262 had been a marvelous journey and sweet success!  (9:38 PM, 33°F)

On Peak 5262, Tombstone Territorial Park, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-22-18

Links:

Next Adventure                     Prior Adventure

Tombstone Territorial Park Map

The Dempster Highway Travelogue

Surfbird Mountain, Ogilvie Range, Tombstone Territorial Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (9-4-17)

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