Donjek River – Page 2 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Denali to Skagway – On the Road Again, Looking for Fun! (9-5-18 to 9-7-18)

Days 33-35 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

9-5-18, 8:04 AM, 39°F, Denali State Park – Blue skies! An encouraging start. Maybe today was the big day when Lupe would finally get to climb Reindeer Hills (5,102 ft.)? Warming the G6 up a bit, SPHP drove NE on George Parks Highway No. 3. During a quick stop at the Little Coal Creek trailhead (MP 163.9), Lupe stretched and sniffed around, while SPHP got ready for the Reindeer Hills.

A mile back, SPHP had driven past the Denali North viewpoint. Better check that out before continuing on to the Reindeer Hills!

The Denali N viewpoint is at MP 162.9 of George Parks Highway No. 3. The Denali S viewpoint is at MP 135.2. Lupe had been to the S viewpoint a couple of days ago.

Any day an American Dingo gets to see Denali (20,310 ft.) is a great one! Lupe had been to Denali State Park in both 2016 and 2017, but apart from a couple of brief partial glimpses, the highest mountain in North America had always remained hidden among the clouds.

However, today was a great day! Gleaming white against the blue sky, Denali was out in the open, along with a host of other mighty peaks of the Alaska Range.

**Denali** looms far beyond mountains on the NW side of the Chulitna River valley. Photo looks WNW.

Jagged peaks of the **Alaska Range**. Photo looks WNW.

Incredible snowy peaks like these were mere foothills compared to Denali.

Lupe had already seen Denali from the South viewpoint a couple of days ago. SPHP was of the opinion that the S viewpoint actually provided a better look at the monstrous mountain.

However, on the way to the Reindeer Hills, well out of Denali State Park along George Parks Highway No. 3, Lupe had even better views of Denali right from the highway. Far more of the frozen giant was in sight. Even from 45 miles away, the towering height and sheer massiveness of the world’s coldest mountain outside of Antarctica was incredible to behold!

**Denali** from George Parks Highway No. 3 NE of Denali State Park. Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.

Approaching Cantwell, the Reindeer Hills came into sight, mere blips in comparison with Denali, but nevertheless, an exciting and challenging peakbagging prospect for Lupe and SPHP.

Approaching the **Reindeer Hills**. Photo looks NE.

The key question was how to access the Reindeer Hills (5,102 ft.)? At Cantwell, SPHP turned E on Denali Highway No. 8, which soon turned to gravel. The high point of the Reindeer Hills is only a couple of miles N of the highway 6 or 7 miles E of Cantwell. However, all through this area, the road stayed S of a heavily forested creek drainage.

Loop would have to battle through a lengthy stretch of trackless forest and bogs, crossing the unseen stream somewhere along the way, before reaching the lower slopes of the Reindeer Hills. The prospect seemed daunting. 8 miles from Cantwell, SPHP parked the G6 by a lovely little lake on the S side of the highway. Lupe got out for a look around, while SPHP paused to consider her options.

By the lovely pond 8 miles E of Cantwell. Photo looks SW.

Gazing at the Reindeer Hills high point, the mountain looked like an easy climb, if only Lupe could get to it!

**Reindeer Hills** high point from the parking area by the little lake. Photo looks NW.

Pondering the situation, getting across the hidden stream seemed to be the crucial issue. The topo map showed the creek being closest to the highway a couple of miles back W where it joined a tributary of the Jack River. W was sort of bad, though, because that was in the downstream direction. Even before reaching the Jack River tributary, the stream would be bigger. On the other paw, the stream was so close to the road there, it wouldn’t take Loop long to get to it. She would find out very quickly if fording the creek was realistic or not.

May as well give it a shot! SPHP drove back to the tributary of the Jack River, parking the G6 at a pullout on the SE side of the highway just N of the tributary. Full of enthusiasm, the American Dingo hopped out to give it a go. (9-5-18, 11:52 AM, 51°F)

Looking down the **tributary of the Jack River** right after it flows under Denali Highway No. 8. Photo looks WNW.

The **Reindeer Hills** high point (R of Center) from S of the **tributary of the Jack River**. The stream Looper needed to get across is hidden in the lowlands beyond her on the far side of the tributary. Photo looks NNE.

Lupe and SPHP headed N from the highway into a flat region densely covered with bushes. The bushes were only a few feet high, but to Lupe, they formed practically an impenetrable jungle. Although this area looked flat, before she made it very far, the terrain was pockmarked with holes full of water 2 or 3 feet deep. Nevertheless, Loop managed to thrash through it all until she was roughly 300 feet from the highway, where she reached the S bank of the stream she needed to cross.

The stream was only a few feet wide, but fast-flowing. The water was easily over Lupe’s head and SPHP’s knees, and perhaps deeper than that. Hard to tell. The tightly packed bushes along both banks made the prospect of getting into or out of the stream look troublesome at best.

SPHP didn’t like it. Lupe might easily get swept downstream out of sight in the frigid waters of the powerful current. Unable to touch bottom, what if she couldn’t escape the deep narrow channel? SPHP wouldn’t be able to get to her in time to help her.

No, not worth it. Maybe the confluence of this stream and the tributary of the Jack River would be an easier spot to cross?

Trying to get the confluence, Lupe fell into one of the waterholes among the bushes. She managed to scramble out, cold and wet, but didn’t care for the experience. Loopster wanted to head back to the highway. She did, too. All by herself. SPHP could explore this morass alone!

SPHP had to plead with Looper to give it one more try. Reluctantly, she did, but the confluence of the streams presented no better opportunity to cross. Alright, forget about it! Not happening! The Carolina Dog was plenty happy to return to the G6. (9-5-18, 12:21 AM, 51°F)

Much closer to Cantwell, a couple more possibilities were checked out where Lupe wouldn’t have had to cross any streams. However, potential private property issues cropped up. This area was miles from the high point of the Reindeer Hills, anyway. Already afternoon, and too late in the day to consider an attempt, even if clean access had been found.

No Reindeer Hills! Most disappointing. What to do? Seemed terrible to waste the rest of such a beautiful day, but after Loopster’s big trek up to Ermine Hill (2,700 ft.) and Peak 3700 on K’esugi Ridge yesterday, maybe a day of rest was a good thing. The plan became to drive back to Palmer, where Loop could take on Matanuska Peak (6093 ft.) tomorrow.

**Denali** again from George Parks Highway No. 3 in the afternoon. Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.

Another look with even more help from the telephoto lens.

9-5-18, 7:57 PM, Wasilla – Not even 8:00 PM, yet the sun hung low in the W. The days were noticeably shorter now than a few weeks ago when the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood had returned to the far N. Kind of sad. Lupe’s time in Alaska was running out.

9-6-18, 6:50 AM, Palmer – Surprisingly dark. Only partially due to the changing season, though. The sky was all a depressing gray. The pointy summit of Matanuska Peak (6,093 ft.) was in view beneath the clouds, but perhaps not for much longer. Within 10 minutes, a light rain set in. Too bad.

Might as well face it. Matanuska Peak wasn’t going to happen for Lupe, either. Suddenly it was clear that the long road home had already begun when the Carolina Dog left the Reindeer Hills behind yesterday. After stops at Fred Meyer’s for groceries and fuel, SPHP drove out of Palmer heading E on the Glenn Highway. Lupe stared out the window of the G6 as the windshield wipers slapped away the rain, and the miles rolled by.

More than 3,000 miles to go! Lupe’s adventures on this Dingo Vacation weren’t over yet. She still had time, extra days she could spend along the way. Surely, fabulous mountains were still to come. A little cooperation from the weather was all it would take. The American Dingo was merely on the road again, looking for fun!

9-6-18, 10:15 AM, 41°F, Gunsight Mountain trailhead – Forgetting about Matanuska Peak had been the right thing to do. By the time Lupe made it to Gunsight Mountain (6,441 ft.), all was mist and fog.

At the Gunsight Mountain trailhead, MP 118.5 of the Glenn Highway.

Loopster had already climbed Gunsight Mountain in 2016, but nearby Syncline Mountain (5,471 ft.) was of interest, too. Not for today, but in the hope that Lupe might return to Alaska someday, SPHP wanted to check out the Syncline Mountain access situation. A map at the Gunsight Mountain trailhead showed possible access from Belanger Pass.

Map posted at the Gunsight Mountain trailhead.

Some sort of route to Belanger Pass left the Glenn Highway at MP 123.3, only 5 miles E of here. Since it was on the way, Lupe and SPHP went to check it out.

At MP 123.3, a decent road left the N side of the highway. SPHP drove a couple of miles along it before deciding to turn around at a giant mud hole that covered most of the road. On the way out, a man was outside working on a deck for his summer home. Lupe and SPHP stopped to chat with him. He said the G6 could make it to a parking area about 3.5 miles shy of Belanger Pass. A 4WD road went over the pass and 40 miles beyond it.

Interesting, and hopefully helpful on some future date. SPHP thanked him for the information. Lupe and SPHP then went on, but not before getting a photo of the spiffy sign this guy had posted along the road not far from his driveway.

On the road to Belanger Pass. **Syncline Mountain** is the long ridge in the fog. Easily amused, SPHP liked the sign. Photo looks NW.

9-6-18, 1:07 PM, 50°F, Copper River overlook – The journey E continued. The miles rolled by. Lupe didn’t escape the G6 again until she was at the Copper River overlook one mile E of Gakona Junction along the Tok Cut-off. The sky remained dull and gray, but the rain and mist were over.

At the **Copper River** overlook a mile E of Gakona Junction.

Lupe and SPHP had often stopped here to see the magnificent view of the Copper River, but had always gone on after a few minutes. Having been cooped up in the G6 for most of a day and a half, though, Loop was anxious for action. A dirt road headed down into the river valley. Never explored it before. Maybe Lupe would enjoy a little romp to see what was down there?

Oh, yes! Lupe heartily approved of this plan. She raced ahead going back and forth checking trees for squirrels.

The road leading down from the bluffs to the Copper River.

After losing roughly 100 feet of elevation, the road curved sharply NE, then leveled out only a few feet higher than the river. Lupe and SPHP continued along the road gaining vastly different impressions.

The hike was pleasant enough. Both sides of the road were lined with trees and bushes. However, since the road always remained 10 to 20 feet from the river’s edge, and the intervening strip of land was heavily wooded, SPHP was disappointed that the Copper River was never in sight. Loopster, on the other paw, was thrilled! The trees harbored a lively squirrel population.

What joy! Everywhere she went, all up and down the road, Lupe found more squirrels to bark at.

*This is the best idea you’ve had in a while now, SPHP!*

One would think this road might eventually lead to river access at some point, but to Lupe’s great delight the road went on and on, never getting any closer or farther from the river. Meanwhile, the woods provided a steady supply of squirrels that needed a good barking at. That was fine for a while, but after 0.33 mile, SPHP insisted upon pushing through the narrow woodlands to the edge of the Copper River.

Hmm. Water was way up against the bank, putting an end to any dreams of a stroll out on a nice long exposed stretch of riverbed.

*Too bad you didn’t bring a raft, SPHP. That would have been quite an adventure!* Lupe by the **Copper River**.

9-6-18, 8:30 PM, Donjek River, Yukon Territory – The Copper River had been the highlight of the day. 456 miles from where she’d left Palmer, Alaska this morning, Lupe arrived at another mighty river, the Donjek, in the Yukon Territory. Clouds had spit rain on and off all day long.

There was a glorious mountain here S of the river. SPHP had taken to calling it Donjek Crossing Mountain. Ever since Lupe had first crossed the Donjek River in 2016, thought had been given to climbing it, but the weather hadn’t ever cooperated. Wasn’t looking all that promising this evening, either, but who knew what the morning might bring?

In any case, stopping here for the night. Going to give it a chance. The Donjek River was very low. As day turned to dusk, the Carolina Dog had a fabulous time wandering up and down exposed riverbed with SPHP.

**Donjek Crossing Mountain** beyond the Alaska Highway bridge over the **Donjek River**. Photo looks ENE.

9-7-18, 6:10 AM, Donjek River – Light out, but the news was as expected. An hour and a half ago, it had been raining. No rain now, but heavily overcast. SPHP petted Lupe, and got an enthusiastic licking in return. No huge rush, may as well sleep in a bit. Not likely, but maybe the sky would clear?

9-7-18, 8:48 AM, Donjek River – No change. Low ceiling. Simply dismal. Donjek Crossing Mountain, along with every other high point, was cloaked in clouds. Otherwise nice enough out, but no point in climbing anything only to spend the whole day lost in a fog.

Lupe still managed to have a fun morning constitutional romp along the mighty Donjek River, though, before pressing on.

*Even without being able to see the mountains, the **Donjek River** is still an impressive sight, isn’t it? Think of how enormous it must be during the spring snow melt!* Photo looks SW.

The weather gradually improved on the road S. By the time Loop got to Kluane Lake, patches of blue sky were visible off to the E. However, the visitor center at the SW end was closed when she arrived. A few miles farther, Lupe and SPHP stopped again at a big pullout at the far S end of the lake.

S shore of **Kluane Lake**. Photo looks N.

This pullout is a favorite spot. Lupe had first been here in August, 2016 only a few months after an incredible change occurred. In May, 2016, Kluane Lake’s principal water source was naturally diverted elsewhere. Meltwaters from the Kaskawulsh Glacier broke through a former ice barrier, and completely changed course. Instead of flowing N into the Slims River and Kluane Lake, the meltwaters now flowed E into the Kaskawulsh River.

This dramatic change had happened practically overnight. Sadly, the water level in Kluane Lake has been dropping ever since. The lake was still huge and beautiful, but noticeably lower again this year. Lupe and SPHP spent a little while enjoying the lake, the mountain views, and a few rambunctious Dingo games.

**Sheep Mountain (6,400 ft.)** from **Kluane Lake**. Lupe had climbed Sheep Mountain in 2017. Photo looks NW.

Light rain fell in Whitehorse when SPHP stopped for supplies, although it had been merely cloudy on the way here from Kluane Lake. The rain didn’t last, and by evening Lupe was back in Alaska! With 2 big cruise ships in port, Skagway was busy.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood dropped by the Arctic Brotherhood building, just to let them know they still have some competition. Then she took a stroll down to see the cruise ships, before finishing up her tour with a sight-seeing drive out to Dyea.

Lupe visits the old Arctic Brotherhood building in Skagway, now a tourist information center.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood returns! Lupe joined the Arctic Sisterhood when she climbed **AB Mountain (5,036 ft.)** near Skagway in 2017.

Checking out the cruise ships down by Taiya Inlet.

*So, SPHP. When are you going to take me on one of these? Dingoes love luxury you know!*

For 3 days now, Lupe had been mostly on the road, taking her fun in bits and pieces at short stops along the way. Bigger opportunities for more than that hadn’t panned out. However, with any luck, tomorrow that would change. The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Circle would be hitting the trail to high adventure once again, right here in Skagway!

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Sheep Mountain, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-13-17)

AB Mountain – Lupe Joins the Arctic Sisterhood!, Skagway, Alaska (8-7-17)

The New Arctic Brotherhood

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Finger Mountain on the Dalton Highway, Alaska (8-15-17)

Days 15 & 16 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

Day 15, 8-14-17 – Windy! Waves were crashing into the shore of Kluane Lake when Lupe wanted out in the wee hours of the night. She was soon back, and apparently famished. Another generous helping of Alpo, and the Carolina Dog was ready to curl up under her blankie again, still worn out from her big climb up Sheep Mountain (6,400 ft) yesterday.

Hours later, Lupe had chocolate sugar wafer cookies for breakfast as SPHP drove N on the Alaska Highway. The cookies were a big hit! In the rear view mirrors, Mount Decoeli (7,650 ft.) could be seen in clear skies far to the S. Up ahead, though, the sky was cloudy and dark.

The plan for the day was to climb a mountain Lupe had seen near the Donjek River last year. The mountain ought to have a fabulous view of a long stretch of the braided river, and snowy mountains of the St. Elias Range to the SW as well. Of course, it all depended on the weather, and SPHP was soon driving through rain showers.

The rain eventually ended. The sky cleared somewhat. A mountain came into view that looked like it might be the one Lupe hoped to climb. Although most of the sky was still cloudy, the mountain was bathed in sunshine. The upper slopes sported an unexpected dusting of new snow.

A mountain bathed in sunshine and sporting a dusting of new snow on its upper reaches came into view. At first, SPHP thought this was the mountain near the Donjek River that Lupe intended to climb. Turned out it wasn’t. Photo looks N.

The brightly lit mountain turned out not to be the one Lupe intended to climb. The Donjek River was still farther away than SPHP thought. By the time Loop was getting close to the river, she was beyond the sunny mountain and seeing wonderful white peaks off to the SW. One of these peaks, situated on the distant horizon, was a monstrous white spire that dominated everything else.

After crossing the bridge over the Donjek River, SPHP found a place to park the G6. Lupe got out for a look around. An easy stroll brought her to a bank overlooking the river. Beyond the meandering stream, Looper could see the closest of the white mountains. They gleamed white and gray beneath a mix of soft clouds and pale blue sky.

Lupe arrives at the **Donjek River** where the Alaska Highway crosses it. To the SW, she could see white peaks in sunshine beneath a mix of pale blue sky and clouds. Photo looks SW.

The forested territory between the **Donjek River** and these white peaks may be part of the **Wolverine Plateau**, but SPHP isn’t entirely certain about that. Photo looks SW.

These amazing white peaks are only the start of genuine mountaineering territory in the heart of the mighty **St. Elias Range** beyond them. Photo looks SW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Even higher peaks were seen more to the S, some completely covered with snow. They made a gorgeous backdrop for the Donjek River.

A couple of entirely white peaks soar above the front range beyond the **Donjek River**. Photo looks S.

Unfortunately, all the blue sky was way over by the white and gray mountains to the SW. Apparently, only that one big hole existed in the general layer of cloud cover seen over the rest of the sky. SPHP still thought the mountain next to the Alaska Highway that Lupe had come to climb looked possible, but the summit was hidden by fog. Hmm.

On a clear day, the views of the Donjek River and St. Elias Range from up there would be amazing! No telling what the Carolina Dog might see! SPHP pondered whether it was worth making an attempt. Conditions were marginal, if Loop really expected to see much. No point in taking on trackless wilderness and more than 3,400 feet of elevation gain, if she wouldn’t. In the end, it seemed like the wrong move. The mountain near the Donjek River really ought to be saved for a day with brilliant sunshine.

Loop and SPHP continued N. The American Dingo’s next stop came after crossing the White River. The White is even bigger than the Donjek. In fact, the Donjek River becomes a tributary of the White River somewhat farther downstream.

Lupe stops for a look at the **White Rive**r, a giant braided stream even larger than the Donjek. Photo looks NE.

The **White Rive**r has a super wide flood plain as it flows N out of the mountains. The SE end of **Horsecamp Hill (4,600 ft.)** is seen on the L. **Horsecamp Hill** was another peakbagging possibility that got scratched today. Photo looks NE.

N of the White River was Horsecamp Hill (4,600 ft.), another mountain on Lupe’s list of possible peakbagging objectives. However, the shortest approaches from the SW off the Alaska Highway looked very steep, and the whole mountain appeared heavily forested. Even if Lupe made it to the top, she might not get any bird’s eye views of the White River, the whole point of even considering an ascent. The weather was no better here than it had been at the Donjek River, either. With so many strikes against it, Horsecamp Hill was out. Oh, well! Onward!

Gray skies and occasional light rain showers extended mile after mile. No blue sky anywhere. Lupe alternately snoozed atop her pile of pillows and blankets, or stared out the window searching in vain for wildlife. She left Canada entering Alaska again. The bridge over the Tanana River came 12 miles before Tok. It wasn’t raining here, and there was a rest area. Time to get out and sniff the air for a few minutes.

Lupe takes a break from the G6 near the Alaska Highway bridge over the **Tanana River**. Photo looks SE.

Though she traveled hundreds of miles, Lupe failed to find even a speck of blue sky the rest of the day. NW of Tok, the sky was heavily overcast. Loopster may not have gotten a workout, but the windshield wipers did. It rained frequently. It wasn’t raining when the Carolina Dog pulled into Fairbanks at 5:45 PM, but looked like it could again at any moment.

Loop would spend the night in Fairbanks. Hopefully morning would bring better news.

Day 16, 8-15-17 – The only thing that was clear, was that not much had changed overnight. No rain at the moment, but the pavement was wet. Dark clouds still ruled the sky.

SPHP bought supplies and fuel for the G6. Eventually there was good news. Patches of blue sky had appeared, and were growing in the W. It was enough. Lupe and SPHP left Fairbanks.

On the drive to Livengood, the Elliot Highway was wet the entire way. Every time the road turned E or N, the weather deteriorated. Every time it turned W, conditions improved. SPHP sometimes drove into fog high on forested ridges, but always drove out of it again in the valleys below. A little past Livengood, Lupe reached the start of the Dalton Highway.

Lupe reaches the start of the Dalton Highway. The Dalton Highway goes 414 miles N to the Arctic Ocean, officially ending only a few miles short of Prudhoe Bay.

The first 40 miles or so on the Dalton Highway were all dirt and gravel. Today the road was a complete sloppy, muddy mess. SPHP drove slowly. The G6 became filthy, but kept going. Current weather conditions were gradually improving. Sunshine peeked through gaps in the clouds. Bits and pieces of blue sky managed to reach the highway.

A 12 mile stretch of pavement led to a few more miles of dirt and gravel before Loopster reached the bridge over the Yukon River at milepost 56. After crossing the bridge, she stopped for a look at the mighty Yukon.

Looking NE down the Dalton Highway bridge over the Yukon River. The Alaska oil pipeline crosses the river attached to the underside of this same bridge, and can be seen snaking away from the far end.

Lupe has a look at the **Yukon River**. There is a small visitor center on the N side of the river E of the Dalton Highway. Fuel is available on the W side of the highway, but it ain’t cheap at $5.50 per gallon. SPHP didn’t buy any. Don’t quibble, though, if you’re getting low! The next gas station is at Coldfoot camp 119 miles farther N.

Lupe on the N bank of the mighty **Yukon River**. She had been here in 2016, too. It was sort of amazing, almost hard to believe, that she had made it all the way back here again! Photo looks WNW.

In addition to visiting the Yukon River, Lupe went to see the Alaska oil pipeline. Although sometimes miles from the Dalton Highway, the oil pipeline roughly parallels the highway all the way to the Arctic Ocean, and is often in view.

Lupe visits the Alaska oil pipeline during her stop at the Yukon River. In 2016, Lupe learned it could be lots of fun exploring sections of the service road that follows the pipeline. Much of her gorgeous **last mile N trek** in the Brooks Range in 2016 had been along the pipeline service road. Photo looks NE.

This map showing highlights along the Dalton Highway was on display near the Yukon River visitor center.

N of the Yukon River, the Dalton Highway was dirt and gravel, which meant mud. SPHP was concerned about the first few miles. In 2016, when the weather had been sunny and much drier, there had been a mile or two of very soft highway in this area. The G6 had threatened to bog down even then. The road might easily be impassable now.

Not to worry. The road was much improved over the past year. Despite the mud, the G6 sailed through much more confidently than a year ago. Loop wasn’t going to be forced to retreat S. Finger Mountain (2,202 ft.), today’s destination, was only 42 miles N of the Yukon River. Loopster was going to get there!

On the way to Finger Mountain, the weather deteriorated again. SPHP drove through intermittent rain showers. Only tiny patches of blue sky remained. A couple miles before reaching Finger Mountain, the Dalton Highway turned from mud to good pavement. That was a relief!

A rain shower was in progress when Lupe made it to Finger Mountain sometime after 3:00 PM. A strong wind blew out of the W. Low, ragged clouds raced by at a tremendous pace. Off to the NW, the summit of Caribou Mountain (3,179 ft.) was hidden from view. The S side of the Brooks Range, which ought to have been in sight, wasn’t.

Finger Mountain is only a big, rounded, gentle hill. The Dalton Highway goes right over it around milepost 98. A few stunted trees exist, but most of the mountain is covered with low bushes and small plants typical of alpine tundra. E of the highway, a granite rock outcropping juts some 20 or 30 feet above the surrounding terrain. This rock outcropping is the true summit of Finger Mountain.

Lupe had climbed Finger Mountain only a little over a year ago. For the American Dingo, it was a quick, easy peakbagging success. On a clear day, the views had been wonderful, too. Loopster had every intention of repeating this exploit. When the rain quit and wind slackened around 4:30 PM, both Lupe and SPHP left the G6 heading directly for the summit.

A short stroll, a tiny scramble, a boost from SPHP, and Lupe was there. For the second time in her life, Lupe stood at the tippy top of Finger Mountain (2,202 ft.)!

Lupe needed a boost from SPHP to get to the top of **Finger Mountain**. After an absence of a little more than a year, the Carolina Dog was back!

Lupe remains perched atop **Finger Mountain** while SPHP scrambles down for a more distant shot. Photo looks N.

Kind of windy up here, SPHP! Can I come down yet? …. *No, stay where you are Looper, gimme a couple more minutes!*

The granite formation at the summit of **Finger Mountain** looks the most impressive from this direction. Pretty much the entire elevation gain coming from the Dalton Highway only 100+ yards away is on display here. Photo looks N.

With clouds obscuring some of the best views, Lupe was ready to get down out of the annoying breeze as soon as SPHP said she could. She leapt down all on her own.

A short nature trail circles the hillside immediately NE of Finger Mountain’s summit. For fun, Loop and SPHP took a leisurely stroll around the loop. Lupe wound up right back at the base of the summit rocks. This time she didn’t bother going to the top.

Lupe stands below the summit rock she had been up on top of earlier. Photo looks SSW.

With all the clouds around, the views from Finger Mountain weren’t nearly what they might have been. Lupe was going to spend the night here. Maybe they’d be better in the morning?

After having spent most of today and yesterday cooped up, Lupe wasn’t ready yet to retreat to the G6 again. Fortunately, there were a couple more things to do on Finger Mountain.

Another granite formation, not as large or high as the one at the summit, was right across the Dalton Highway on the W side of the road. With plenty of time left in the day, and not a whole lot to do with it, Lupe was all for sniffing around and exploring that rock formation, too.

The smaller granite formation on the W side of the Dalton Highway.

On a clear day, Lupe would have had a great view of **Caribou Mountain (3,179 ft.)** from here. The summit is in the distance on the L, currently hidden by clouds. Photo looks WNW.

**Olsons Lake** is one of the large ponds near Center. The Dalton Highway winds off into the distance. The Alaska oil pipeline is buried underground here where the strip of bare land is seen on the L. Photo looks NNW.

Finger Mountain is named after a famous tor, Finger Rock, located roughly 0.25 to 0.50 mile SSE of the true summit where Lupe had just been. Finger Rock is said to point in the general direction of Fairbanks. Bush pilots have been rumored to use it as a navigation aide. Lupe may as well go see Finger Rock while she was here.

From the edge of a large parking area off the E side Dalton Highway, a trail led SSE into the tundra. Lupe followed it down a long gradual slope. She had a good time sniffing around exploring the tundra. The trail ultimately became hard to follow, sunken beneath standing water in many places. SPHP rock hopped part of the way to Finger Rock, which was always in view ahead.

Finger Rock wasn’t anything Lupe could get to the top of, but she did climb partway up its base.

Loop reaches famed **Finger Rock**. It reminded SPHP of an artillery piece from this angle. Photo looks ESE.

**Finger Rock** can be seen from the Dalton Highway. SPHP had spotted it on the way up Finger Mountain.

The side trek to **Finger Rock** was easy and didn’t take Lupe long. In 2016, she hadn’t visited **Finger Rock** when she came to **Finger Mountain** the first time. Lupe was glad she’d come to see it today.

After visiting Finger Rock, Lupe returned to the nature trail near the summit of Finger Mountain. Dark clouds and showers were once again approaching from the W. Lupe and SPHP fled to the protection of the G6! (5:45 PM)

Rain showers came and went. A rainbow did, too, but by then SPHP was chatting with a guy from Indiana and his two sons-in-law. Finger Mountain was a brief stop on their way N to hunt caribou near Galbraith Lake on the N side of the Brooks Range. They eventually drove on, but by then the rainbow had departed as well.

From the safety of the G6, Lupe and SPHP spent the evening watching one rain shower after another blow over Finger Mountain. Traffic on the Dalton Highway faded away long before the late arctic twilight did. If the weather would cooperate, tomorrow would be a long day. Time to rest.

Alone on Finger Mountain, less than 18 miles from the Arctic Circle, Lupe and SPHP slept.

Lupe near **Finger Rock** on **Finger Mountain**, Alaska 8-15-17

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Leaving Alaska & Lupe’s Return to Yukon Territory, Canada (9-1-16 & 9-2-16)

The end of Day 34, plus Day 35 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

Day 34, 9-1-16, 4:00 PM, 72°F – Well, it was over. After 7,500+ feet of elevation gain in the past 31 hours, Lupe was back at the Lazy Mountain Recreation Site trailhead. Blisters and a pulled muscle in the front right leg, suffered yesterday while coming down Pepper Peak, caused SPHP to hobble slowly onto the parking lot behind her.

Make that almost over. A tall, lanky, young guy immediately struck up a conversation. Both Lupe and SPHP just wanted to go the remaining 50 feet to the G6 and sit/lay down. Instead this complete stranger launched into a monologue about mountains and trails. He talked with a strange accent, or maybe a lisp, and seemed kind of, well – “off”, somehow.

Remind you of anyone, SPHP?

Oh, please! Silence, wisecracking Dingo of mine!

Actually the friendly stranger’s conversation would normally have been of great interest. He was a wealth of knowledge about Alaska, and what there was to do outdoors around here. Moreover, he was eager to share his experiences.

Where had he been for the last 3 weeks? Off or not, any other time SPHP would have enjoyed talking to him for hours, but not now. Not his fault, but his timing was atrocious. No need for his insight now. Lupe had just returned from Lazy Mountain (3,740 ft.), the last mountain she would climb in Alaska in 2016. Recuperation at the G6 was priority one.

After a seeming eternity, a brief lull came in the one-sided conversation. SPHP used the opening to wish the stranger well, and encourage his speedy enjoyment of the Lazy Mountain trail. Off he went, happy as a clam. SPHP limped 50 feet and unlocked the G6. Lupe eagerly leaped in. Now it was over! No more climbing mountains in Alaska. Sad, tragic really, but paws, feet, legs, and lungs all advised getting over it. Wow, it did feel good to rest!

With the G6’s windows down on this beautiful, warm afternoon so Lupe could sniff the air, SPHP drove the few miles back to Palmer. Brief stops for groceries and gas. A trip to McDonald’s. Lupe ate only one bite of cheeseburger. Surprising, but she knew how she felt. She seemed cheerful and perfectly fine.

At long last, off with the boots. What a relief! So much better! In stocking feet, SPHP drove E out of Palmer on the Glenn Highway, marvelously equipped with cheeseburgers, fries and a Coke. Lupe panted happily, looking out the window at the splendid scenery of the Matanuska River valley going by. A relaxing, astonishingly beautiful evening drive was ahead. After 22 unforgettable days in Alaska, Lupe was starting for home.

In a sense, Lupe had already been going home for 5 days, ever since she left Grace Ridge (3,136 ft.), back near Homer on the Kenai Peninsula. So far, though, every day had been mostly filled with adventures. She hadn’t really gotten all that far. The Carolina Dog was still more than 3,000 miles from home in the Black Hills. Time to make tracks. 450 miles per day for the next week should about do it.

The return trip would be fabulous! Endless forests, mountains, rivers, lakes, sky and clouds. A road trip made in heaven. Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon and Alaska had been a huge success! Time to kick back and enjoy the road home. Lupe would still have a chance for a few adventures along the way, if they weren’t too long, and there would be plenty of stops to stretch, sniff the air, and admire the world.

Lupe’s first stop this evening was to see the Matanuska Glacier again. She’d had absolutely fabulous views of it earlier on her Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation when she’d climbed Lion Head (3,185 ft.).

The Matanuska Glacier from the Glenn Highway (Alaska Route 1).

Lupe stops for a quick look at the Matanuska Glacier again. She’d had absolutely fabulous views of it earlier on her Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation when she’d climbed nearby **Lion Head (3,185 ft.)**. Photo looks S.

Snowy peaks near the Matanuska Glacier. Photo looks S using the telephoto lens.

Lupe didn’t make it much beyond the Matanuska Glacier this evening, stopping near Gunsight Mountain (6,441 ft.) for the night. Gunsight Mountain was the highest peak in Alaska that Lupe had climbed. She had met Laura from Montana, and Luke Hall from Australia up there.

The best views from the highway near Gunsight Mountain were to the S. The peaks in that direction appeared to have fresh new-fallen snow.

Looking S from the Gunsight Mountain area.

Day 35, 9-2-16, Predawn, 32°F – Orion hung low in the E. The pale light of dawn hadn’t arrived yet, but there was a hint of it on the horizon. The North Star was high overhead. Northern lights, not a great display, but easily seen, streamed from the N toward the coming sun.

With the G6’s right headlight not working, it was still too early to leave the Gunsight Mountain area. Lupe and SPHP walked W along an abandoned stretch of the old Glenn Highway. Chilly out, but Lupe was in fine form, sniffing like mad among the bushes lining the old road. A mile, maybe a mile and a half later, it was time to turn around.

The were-puppy attacked SPHP! Once the were-puppy was fended off, the Carolina Dog showed off how fast and agile she was, racing up and down the road, running circles around SPHP. Ahh, to feel like that! So much energy and joy of living! Shrill Dingo barking filled the air for a couple of minutes before Lupe returned to sniffing.

On the way back to the G6, sunrise was on its way. Soon time to depart.

Looking E from the Gunsight Mountain area on Lupe’s last morning in Alaska.

First light hits the peaks S of Gunsight Mountain. Photo looks S.

Heading E toward Glenn Allen, Mount Drum (12,010 ft.) came into view. Lupe hadn’t seen it before. When she’d first arrived in Alaska, the towering white monsters of the Wrangell Range were all shrouded by clouds. Now they basked in brilliant sunshine. Lupe saw them from various angles as SPHP followed the highway beyond Glenn Allen around to the Tok Cut-Off.

SPHP meant to stop at the same viewpoint overlooking the Copper River where Lupe had stopped before, but somehow missed it. The white monsters were far from the highway, but could be seen for many miles. After a while, though, they receded from view as the miles clicked by.

One of the white monsters of the Wrangell Range SE of Glenn Allen. SPHP didn’t know their names, but they were spectacular peaks covered in huge quantities of snow and ice.

One hell of a sledding hill! Kind of a rough ending, though.

After being in view for many miles as Lupe circled them to the N, the huge white Wrangell Mountains began to recede in the rear view mirror.

After all her many Alaskan adventures, Lupe was feeling pretty relaxed on this first full day of driving on her way home.E of Tok, Lupe crossed the Tanana River. She was happy to get out of the G6 to stretch her legs a bit.

Lupe stretches her legs after crossing the Tanana River, which flows all the way NW to Fairbanks. The Tanana is ultimately a tributary of the Yukon River.

Lupe near the Alaskan Highway bridge over the Tanana River E of Tok. Photo looks downstream toward the NW.

With the majestic high peaks of the Wrangell Mountains now far behind, Lupe traveled through an area of lower hills, ridges and distant mountains. Fall was coming to Alaska, as Lupe was leaving. There were many hills with colorful displays of fall colors.

Lupe stops along the Alaska Highway for a photo with the fall colors.

Lupe left Alaska, returning to Yukon Territory in Canada around 2 PM Alaska Time (3 PM Pacific Time). Soon she was seeing bigger mountains closer by again. She crossed the White River without stopping. A few weeks earlier, it had been wide and impressive, but now it was mostly dried up.

After Lupe left Alaska entering Yukon Territory, she began to see higher mountains near the Alaska Highway again.

Yukon Territory from the Alaska Highway.

By the time Lupe reached the Donjek River, it was getting to be late afternoon. The Donjek was running low, too, but it seemed like a good time to get out of the G6 to stretch and walk around a bit. Lupe went for short walks on both sides of the scenic river, spending about 45 minutes in the area.

Lupe near the NW bank of the mighty Donjek River. Of course, the river was running low this time of year. Photo looks SW.

The Donjek River is a major tributary of the White River. Both are part of the Yukon River’s drainage area.

Most of the Donjek was mud flats when Lupe was here, but the river must be gigantic during the spring runoff when the snow melts.

The beautiful mountains and impressive river bed of the Donjek invite exploration, but away from the Alaska Highway this is true wilderness.

The Alaska Highway bridge over the Donjek River. Although the mountains to the SW looked high, remote and dangerous, this one to the E looked like something Lupe could climb if she’d had enough time. Photo looks E.

The Donjek has a braided floodplain. This was only one small channel. Love that big cloud boiling up over the far ridge!

Lupe on the SE bank of the Donjek now. There was more flow over here. Photo looks WSW.

Lupe’s time along the Donjek River was a wonderful break. The whole area was so beautiful and remote. Lupe and SPHP were lucky to be here to see it. There are still amazing places in the world far beyond casual exploration. The Donjek and White Rivers capture the imagination, but few ever glimpse more of them than Lupe was seeing from near the highway.

A little S of the Donjek River, a mountain with new snow on top caught SPHP’s fancy.

This striking mountain with new snow on it some miles S of the Donjek River caught SPHP’s fancy, and gave Lupe another opportunity to sniff around for a few minutes out of the G6.

For the last 5 or 6 days Lupe had been in Alaska, the sky had been almost totally clear. However, there were quite a few clouds here in the Yukon. Near Destruction Bay on Kluane Lake, Lupe and SPHP drove through rain showers. Lupe saw a rainbow.

Rainbow near Destruction Bay on Kluane Lake.

In Kluane National Park, Lupe and SPHP stopped again at the Tachal Dahl visitor center in the Slims River valley at the S end of Kluane Lake. The visitor center was closed. Not a soul was around. SPHP made use of one of the picnic tables to prepare dinner. Lupe was eager to help SPHP make the last can of beef stew and remaining cheese disappear, but she buried a cracker with her nose.

The mood had changed remarkably since Lupe had been here in early August. Back then, there had been activity. It hadn’t been crowded at all, but people had been around. The Alaska Highway had lots of traffic. The days were warm and bright, and the sun stayed up late. Dust had been blowing dramatically down the Slims River valley toward Kluane Lake.

Now there was new snow on the mountaintops. The air was chilly. The Slims River valley was still dry, but no dust blew. No one at all was around. Traffic on the Alaska Highway was only a trickle. The whole place felt deserted, like late fall with early winter knocking on the door. SPHP ate while watching two large herds of wild sheep high up on Sheep Mountain (6,400 ft.). Lupe sniffed around nearby.

Lupe returns to the Slims River valley in Kluane National Park in the Yukon near the Tachal Dahl visitor center. The mood had changed since early August when Lupe had last been here. The mountains had new snow on them. A chill was in the air. Dust no longer blew down the still parched Slims River valley toward Kluane Lake. Photo looks SW.

Although it was only September 2nd, new snow on the mountains already hinted of the approach of another deadly cold, dark winter.

Lupe was more than 500 miles from Palmer, Alaska now. She’d made her 450 miles for the day from where she’d left Gunsight Mountain this morning, so it was time to stop for the night. As the light of day faded much earlier than it had only 3.5 weeks ago, Lupe got to spend time playing and sniffing around the S shore of Kluane Lake once more.

Lupe at the S shore of Kluane Lake. Photo looks W.

Sheep Mountain from Kluane Lake. Photo looks NW.

Lupe spent the rest of the evening playing and sniffing around the S shore.

One thing hadn’t changed. Beyond Kluane Lake, a line of mountains marched endlessly away to the N horizon toward the Arctic. The remote peaks were part of a vast wilderness only a little less mysterious than before, and as beautiful and romantic as ever.

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