Carcross – Page 2 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Mount Lorne, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-11-19)

Day 7 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

On the road again! When was this ever going to end? Bright and early, Lupe had left the Hitchcock rest area on Atlin Lake, hitting the road N. Soon she was back in the Yukon. It was already mid-morning by the time SPHP pulled into the Robinson Roadhouse Historic Site rest area N of Carcross. The Carolina Dog was surprised when SPHP started getting the pack ready.

The **Robinson Roadhouse Historic Site** is on the W side of the S Klondike Hwy between Whitehorse and Carcross.

Why the pack, SPHP? We’ve already been to the roadhouse once before. It’s not far beyond these trees W of the rest area, if I remember right.

Oh, we’re not going to the roadhouse again, Loop. Wasn’t that much to it. We might not have gotten across Atlin Lake yesterday to take on Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.), but we’ve got other tricks up our sleeve. Supposed to be a trail up Mount Lorne (6,629 ft.) not far from here, so we’re going to give that a shot instead.

I remember Mount Lorne, SPHP! We saw it twice last year, didn’t we? Once from Grey Mountain up by Whitehorse, and then again the next day from Nares Mountain down by Carcross. Kind of a big, lumpy ridge with a high point toward the E, isn’t it? Higher than anything else near it.

Yeah, that’s it, Loopster. I understand it’s possible to make a loop going up and down different ends of the ridge. So never a dull moment, aye? Should be a fun time!

10:15 AM, 51ºF, S Klondike Hwy at Bear Creek a mile S of the Robinson Roadhouse Historic Site – This was supposed to be it, the trailhead for Mount Lorne. Dirt parking areas were on both sides of the highway on the S side of Bear Creek. SPHP parked in the E lot. No one around, and no posted information at all, but Lupe quickly discovered a trail running E along the N bank of the stream.

*This way, SPHP!* On the N bank of **Bear Creek**. Photo looks E.

Looking W back toward the S Klondike Hwy.

200 feet from the highway, the trail turned NE into the forest. Lupe soon passed private property on the L (N). The trail then wound generally E for a little way before rejoining Bear Creek.

In the forest after leaving Bear Creek behind. Photo looks E.

Rejoining **Bear Creek** 10 minutes later. Photo looks E.

This time Lupe followed Bear Creek E for 10 or 15 minutes before the trail veered off to the NE a second time. The trail never did cross the stream, and did not return to it again.

Miss Hot Paws cooling off in **Bear Creek**. Photo looks ENE.

For what seemed like a long way, the trail wound ENE. Lupe gradually gained elevation. Finally, upon reaching a grove of aspens, the trail steepened considerably. Partway up, SPHP paused to rest.

A young man and woman appeared at the base of the slope, and soon caught up. They were from Whitehorse, and had some timely advice. Not much farther ahead at the top of this rise, the trail would divide. They had been here a week ago intent on climbing Mount Lorne, and had gone L (N) at the intersection, misled by blue and orange ribbons marking that route. A 10 km trek had ensued bringing them back to the S Klondike Hwy far from their vehicle, but never anywhere close to Mount Lorne.

Now they were back, once again intent upon getting to Mount Lorne. Naturally, their advice was to go R (E) at the junction. Lupe had already seen quite a few blue and orange ribbons tied to trees and branches along the way, so it was easy to understand their previous error. SPHP thanked the hikers as they set off again, now taking the lead.

It really wasn’t much farther up to the junction. The two hikers were still there taking a break when Lupe arrived. Staying to the R as advised, the American Dingo carried on, retaking the lead.

The trail continued E for a long way. Beyond the intersection it was level for a short distance, but soon began to climb again. Lupe gained a fair amount of elevation before the trail finally leveled out a second time. On and on it went. Loop was glad when the trail crossed a tributary of Bear Creek, the last water on the way to Mount Lorne.

On a flat stretch beyond the junction. Photo looks SE.

Last water along the way, a tributary of Bear Creek.

Due to the forest, it was difficult to get a sense of how much progress the Carolina Dog was making. All that was clear was that Lupe was now on the S side of a much higher ridge to the N (L). Somewhere ahead there was supposed to be an old cabin. It was important not to miss the cabin, because that was where the most direct route to Mount Lorne splits off from the trail Looper was on.

As Lupe continued farther and farther E, SPHP became concerned. How close did this trail actually come to the cabin? The cabin wouldn’t have to be very far off into the forest to be easy to miss. Had Loop already passed it without noticing it?

*What a worrywart! The cabin’s right here, SPHP!*

Not to worry! Can’t miss it! The old cabin proved to be right next to the N (L) side of the trail. Sure didn’t amount to much. Small and rustic in the extreme, the roof had caved in decades ago. At least Lupe hadn’t gone by it. On the E side, a distinct pawpath curved around to the back side of the cabin before turning N up the slope leading to the big ridge. That had to be the most direct route up Mount Lorne (6,629 ft.), the one the American Dingo had been looking for.

On the E side of the cabin. The pawpath goes off to the R, then curves L back behind N wall before heading N up to Mount Lorne’s SW ridge. Photo looks NW.

The two hikers from Whitehorse weren’t far behind. They reappeared while Lupe was still inspecting the old cabin. Just S of the cabin, a small clearing overlooked the Bear Creek valley, the only viewpoint along the entire route thus far. The hikers paused here for another short break. For a few minutes, Lupe joined them.

Looking SW from the viewpoint near the old cabin.

Loopster’s ascent of Mount Lorne was about to begin in earnest! Bidding her new friends adieu, Lupe returned to the cabin. Crossing the main trail, she followed the pawpath around the cabin and headed higher.

It was a big climb up to the ridge. Steep, but no more than that. No rough ground or any scrambling at all. The forest began to thin out. By the time Lupe got to tree line, the two hikers had caught up. Outpacing SPHP, they retook the lead. The top of Mount Lorne came into view, still 2 miles off to the NE.

On the side path from the cabin going up to the big ridge.

*Finally getting somewhere! There’s **Mount Lorne** (R)!* Photo looks NE.

By the time the Carolina Dog was closing in on the ridgeline, she was not only above tree line, but essentially above bush line, too. Tremendous views of the glorious Yukon in all directions now! The last part of this first big climb was the steepest. A cairn sat along the edge of the ridge where Lupe finally popped up onto it.

Reaching **Mount Lorne’s SW ridge**. The cairn marking where the trail came up is seen on the L. Photo looks SW.

Loop had made it up onto Mount Lorne’s SW ridge. The ridge was broad, rounded, and only sparsely vegetated. As near as SPHP could figure it, the American Dingo was now at about 4,800 feet, which meant she still needed to gain more than 1,800 feet to reach the summit.

Quite a bit of the ridge leading to the summit was in already in sight. As expected, Lupe faced a long, bumpy, but seemingly not overly-rugged trek to the top.

The route ahead from the SW ridge close to where Lupe first reached it. **Mount Lorne’s summit** visible at (R). Photo looks NNE.

Lupe’s new friends were still there when she first reached the SW ridge. SPHP chatted with them briefly before they took off again. This pattern repeated several times as everyone continued toward the summit, but in the end SPHP couldn’t keep up. The two hiker’s lead grew steadily, as SPHP toiled up the mountain behind them. Before long, Lupe no longer caught up with them during their rest breaks, but they often remained in sight working their way up to the next high point.

The trail became intermittent, vanishing or becoming faint during level stretches, but usually reappearing again on the next leg higher.

Approaching the first bump higher along the ridge. Photo looks NE.

Beyond the first hill, the ridge began to narrow a bit. Photo looks NNE.

Looking back down the **SW ridge** (L of Center) from the first hill. Photo looks SW.

The **first major high point** (L) isn’t much farther now. **Mount Lorne’s summit** (R) is straight up from Lupe. Photo looks NE.

Lupe climbed and climbed, usually going up in big spurts separated by relatively level stretches. The ridge narrowed in places, but was never tricky until the American Dingo got close to the first major high point.

What might be considered Mount Lorne’s W summit tops out at about 6,400 feet, not even 250 feet less than the true summit, still a mile due E. Approaching the W summit, the ridge narrowed considerably. Ahead the terrain was very rocky and steep, especially toward the S.

Approaching the **W summit** (L). **True summit** (R). Photo looks ENE.

*Suddenly looking a bit gnarly, SPHP!* Photo looks ENE.

Trying to go straight up the ridgeline looked inadvisable. Staying toward the NW, Lupe started up. Careful! For the first time, the ascent became a scramble, a rather steep one with a bit of exposure in spots. Loopster followed narrow lanes higher. Some of the rock was loose, but exposed bedrock was sometimes present as well, providing firm pawholds.

Traversing much farther along the increasingly steep NW slope soon looked inadvisable, too. Lupe was forced to head almost straight up. Happily, it looked like she was already far enough to get past the worst of the ridgeline. Hopefully the situation would now be a lot better, if she could just get back up to it again.

Looking back during the climb toward the W summit. Photo looks SW.

Better not get too much steeper! Photo looks S.

The last bit of the climb to the ridgeline was the steepest. Fortunately, most of the rock near the top was firm. Made it! Lupe was back on top. A short stroll along a narrow rocky part, and the ridge began to broaden out again. Nice and smooth! The worst was over.

A post-sized 2 foot high piece of bleached wood stuck up out of a cairn at the high point of Mount Lorne’s W summit. The large summit region curved away to the N, eventually leading down Mount Lorne’s NW ridge, if one continued that way far enough. To the E, in the direction of the true summit, a rounded slope dropped away out of sight.

*So far, so good! We’ve made it to **Mount Lorne’s W summit**.* Photo looks N.

**Mount Lorne’s NW ridge** (Center). **Cowley Lakes** (L). Photo looks NW.

**Mount Lorne’s true summit** (R) from the W summit. **Marsh Lake** (L) in the distance. Photo looks ENE.

Ugh! While there had been a few minor drops along the way, they had scarcely amounted to anything. However, going far enough E to peer down the slope leading to the true summit now revealed a grassy saddle a good 300 feet lower. No way to avoid it, Lupe was going to have to lose all that elevation. The down slope was all rocky. Worse yet, the climb waiting on the far side of the saddle looked steep, perhaps difficult.

With no other option, Looper set off down the rocky slope.

Heading down to the saddle leading to the **true summit** (Center). Photo looks E.

*Come on, SPHP! The other side isn’t that bad.* Loop nearing the saddle’s low point. Photo looks E.

Regaining the elevation Lupe had lost going down to the saddle wasn’t nearly as difficult as it had appeared from the W summit. Sort of a steep trudge higher, but that was it. Before long, the American Dingo was at the top of the next hill, just as high as she had been at the W summit.

Almost to the top of the next hill. Photo looks E.

*As high as ever!* Looking back at the W summit. Photo looks W.

Looking E, the ridge narrowed somewhat again, but it appeared Looper now had a straight shot to the true summit! A little deceiving. One more drop was ahead, but it proved to be relatively minor, on the order of 50 to 75 feet. Wasn’t long before the American Dingo was at the base of the final climb, which didn’t look that bad.

**Mount Lorne’s W summit** (R). The **SW ridge** where Lupe had first reached it (far L) is in sunlight far below. Photo looks WSW.

The final climb to the top. Photo looks E.

**Mount Lorne’s true summit** (L). The **S ridge** (R). Photo looks SE.

The **S ridge** looked rougher than the way Lupe had come up. Photo looks SSE.

Nothing to it! Lupe just **W of the true summit**. Photo looks E.

The two hikers were relaxing S of the summit cairn when Lupe and SPHP finally reached the top of Mount Lorne. Introductions were now made. Lupe’s new friends were Greg Johannson and Svetlana Koptyeva. Greg was a lawyer (public defender) originally from Toronto, and Svetlana was a law clerk from the Ukraine. They had both moved to Whitehorse about a year ago, and were totally enthusiastic about how magnificent and wonderful the Yukon is.

With new friends Greg and Svetlana by the summit cairn. Photo looks SE.

While Lupe and SPHP were still visiting with Greg and Svetlana, another man and a young woman reached the summit. They had come up the same way, and must not have been far behind. For a while, everyone milled around the summit area chatting and enjoying the views.

Looking back at Lupe’s route up. **W summit** (Center). **SW ridge** (L). The **NW ridge** (R) is also in view. Photo looks W.

*Well, we made it to the top of our first magnificent Yukon Territory peak of 2019! So, do I look intrepid enough yet, SPHP?* Photo looks E.

**Summit of Mount Lorne** from a little farther E. The **SW ridge** Lupe came up is seen on the L. Photo looks W.

Greg, Svetlana, and Loop. Photo looks W.

*And to think that this only half of it! Now we’re going to have to go all the way back down!*

Checking out **Mount Lorne’s S ridge** (foreground), Lupe’s return route if she wanted to fully explore the whole loop it was possible to make. Photo looks SE.

Half an hour after Lupe reached the summit, Greg and Svetlana were getting ready to leave. Before departing, they stopped to pose with Lupe. They also had a question. Would Lupe like to meet up with them again? Greg and Svetlana were going to be camping with friends and family near the visitor center in Tombstone Territorial Park on August 22nd. The next day they were planning to take the trail to Grizzly Lake and camp out there. They kindly invited Lupe to join them!

That sounded terrific! The American Dingo already had plans to go through Tombstone Territorial Park on this Dingo Vacation. In fact she had been to Grizzly Lake once before, and hoped to return and go even further this year. Teaming up with Greg and Svetlana would be a blast! Whether the timing would actually work out or not wasn’t clear at this point, but if it did, Lupe and SPHP would be thrilled to join them.

With **Svetlana** and **Greg** shortly before they departed, but perhaps not for the last time! Photo looks W.

Greg and Svetlana left, apparently intent upon making the big loop, since they headed down the S ridge. The first part of the decent was easy, but Lupe saw them pause to consider the best route forward where the S ridge became rugged. The other man and young woman started down 10 minutes later, going the same way.

Lupe and SPHP were alone at the top of Mount Lorne. Although some patches of blue remained, by now the sky was mostly cloudy. Visibility wasn’t as good as it had been earlier in the day. Even below the cloud deck, the air was hazy, the views indistinct.

Despite the murkiness, Lupe could still make out some mountains she had been to before. Near Whitehorse, Grey Mountain (4,901 ft.) was in sight off to the NW. Nares Mountain (5,833 ft.) was far to the S. Beyond Nares was Montana Mountain (7,213 ft.). Lupe hadn’t climbed that one yet. Even farther away, Mount Minto (6,913 ft.) was barely visible to the SE. Lupe hadn’t climbed Minto, either, but she had seen it across Atlin Lake just this morning.

Parts of some big lakes could be seen too, including Marsh Lake, Little Atlin, Tagish, and Bennett.

**Grey Mountain** *(aka Canyon Mountain)* (Center) near Whitehorse. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

**Nares Mountain** (Center), with **Montana Mountain** (R of Center) on the horizon. Photo looks S.

An hour after she’d arrived, Lupe left the summit of Mount Lorne. She headed for the S ridge like everyone else.

About ready to head down the S ridge. **Marsh Lake** in the distance. Photo looks SE.

The S ridge quickly turned rough. During the ascent only the scramble up to the W summit had been this tricky. For a considerable distance the ridgeline was mostly too narrow and rugged to stay right up on it. Lupe had to scramble along one side or the other, but was seldom forced too far below the top. At first it was best to stay toward the E, later on the going was easier toward the W.

As usual, SPHP’s progress was extremely slow on this type of terrain. The sure-pawed Carolina Dog had plenty of time to enjoy the views.

Looking down the **W side of the S ridge**. Photo looks S.

The **valley SW of the summit** (Center). The **SW ridge** Lupe had gone up is seen on the R. Photo looks SW.

Scrambling along the **W side of the S ridge**. Photo looks S.

A glance back up from a nice wide spot. Photo looks NW.

On the E side of the ridge now. Getting sunny again! Photo looks S.

Making progress! The rough stuff ends at the high point on the R. Photo looks SSE.

A look back at the true summit. Photo looks NNW.

Last of the rocky terrain. Photo looks SSE.

Took forever, but at last Lupe stood atop the final rocky high point along the S ridge. Looking back, she still wasn’t all that far from the summit.

On the **last rocky high point of the S ridge**. **Mount Lorne’s summit** (Center). Photo looks NNW.

The **S face of Mount Lorne’s W ridge** from the **true summit** (R) to the **W summit** (L). Photo looks NW.

The sky had cleared somewhat. The haze had diminished. As Lupe left the rocky terrain and started down a long, broad slope, before her the incredible Yukon wilderness basked in a serene evening glow.

Leaving the rocky region. Photo looks SSW.

Everyone else was long gone. Lupe hadn’t seen anyone for a while, and wouldn’t see them again. Down, down, down the long slope. Progress was rapid. Even SPHP was stepping lively. Good thing, because the Carolina Dog still had a long way to go.

The plan was to follow the S ridge as far S as necessary to reach an ATV trail. The ATV trail was supposed to link up with the same trail that went past the old cabin Lupe had left so long ago. Turning W too soon meant trouble, a long bushwhack in the wilderness.

The plan was to stay to the L following the high ground S until coming to an ATV trail. Turning W (R) too soon was asking for trouble. Photo looks S.

Even knowing this, SPHP blew it. Lupe had lost a tremendous amount of elevation, and had already bypassed the first ridge leading SW, when she came to a ravine draining SW from the high ground. Looking down the ravine, SPHP could see a road way down there.

That must be it! The ATV trail! Lupe headed down the ravine, but when she got to the road, it wasn’t an ATV trail at all, just a strip of exposed dirt. No sign of any kind of road or trail anywhere. Not good! SPHP tried to lead Lupe SE, taking a shortcut back up to the high ground where she could continue S.

Not gonna happen. The American Dingo was already almost all the way back down to tree line. The vast slope to the SE was densely covered with chest high bushes. No breaks between them. Impossible! Loopster either had to retrace her route all the way back up the ravine or face the wilderness.

Onward! Puppy, ho! Nope. Not going back. Giving up on returning to the high ground, Lupe turned W, the most direct route back to the old cabin. Exactly where she went, SPHP can no longer say. Looper crossed the ravine she had come down expecting to find the road, but lower down where it was deeper than before. She then forced a way up onto the first big ridge that went SW from the S ridge she had abandoned.

Crossing this ridge, Lupe began a long plunge down through thick forest losing more elevation than SPHP thought possible. Finally reaching the valley SW of Mount Lorne’s summit, she crossed it and a tributary of Bear Creek, too. Still heading W, she traversed a long forested slope while gradually regaining some of the elevation she had lost. Once in a while there were animal trails, or a little open ground, but for the most part it was a long struggle battling the wilderness.

Getting late. The last time Lupe had a view, rain showers were off to the W. Even with the long twilight of the far N, light was fading.

Hurry, hurry! Looper couldn’t afford to miss the path! Had to get to it before it was too dark to notice. Finally, there it was. This had to be it didn’t it? Lupe was standing on some sort of trail. Turning S, the Carolina Dog followed the path lower.

Lupe must have regained more elevation than SPHP realized. It was a long way down, but suddenly there was the old cabin, and next to it the main trail. Still miles back to the S Klondike Hwy, but with the help of a flashlight the rest was easy.

Even so, weariness eventually demanded a break. Dumping the pack, SPHP flopped down flat on the ground. Lupe snuggled up beside, still sniffing the air and listening. Silence. Overhead, a tiny patch of sky was barely light enough to contrast with a dark circle of surrounding spires – the jet black tops of spruce trees.

What a day! What a place! Mount Lorne had been awesome! The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Circle was really here again. So good to be back in Canada’s fabled Yukon Territory! (End 8-23-29, 12:36 AM)

With Svetlana Koptyeva and Gregory Johannson, **Mount Lorne**, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-11-19

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Grey Mountain near Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, Canada (9-9-18)

Nares Mountain, Yukon Territory, Canada (9-10-18)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

On & Off the International Falls Trail to Peak 6053, British Columbia, Canada (9-11-18)

Day 39 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

6:30 AM, Nares Mountain trailhead, Blattas Point Road – Nooooo! Late last night, silver stars had shone overhead as the tired American Dingo settled in for a long snooze. The sky had been 80 to 90% clear! Hopes had been high for Peak 6053 this morning, but that was then. Lupe had just woken up to a dreary uniformly overcast day. SPHP was dismayed. Loopster’s final chance for an ascent of Peak 6053 on this Dingo Vacation appeared doomed.

At least it wasn’t raining. Maybe the situation would improve in the next hour or two? Seemed unlikely, and certainly no sense sticking around if Peak 6053 simply wasn’t going to happen, but Loop could wait a little while before hitting the road home. While SPHP straightened out the G6 and made breakfast, the Carolina Dog explored a nearby grove of trees.

8:00 AM – Hmm. The clouds seemed higher and thinner than before. Didn’t look like rain was likely at all. Provided the mountains remained beneath the cloud cover, an attempt on Peak 6053 was actually worth considering! Even if the sun never came out, Lupe might still enjoy some incredible views. Now or never! Lupe and SPHP piled into the G6.

Hopes soared during the drive S from Carcross on the South Klondike Highway. Expecting darker skies closer to the Alaskan coast, conditions were improving instead! Far from a perfect day, but the cloud cover was getting higher, lighter, brighter, and even tinged with blue!

9:41 AM, 41°F – Upon arriving at the International Falls trailhead just N of the Alaska border near White Pass, even the highest regions of what could be seen of Peak 6053 were out in the open. That settled it! Lupe was going give it a shot!

SE slopes of **Peak 6053** from the International Falls trailhead. Photo looks NW.

The International Falls trail starts out with a short descent to Captain William Moore Creek. The last part of this descent being nearly vertical, SPHP was glad to find 4 ropes in place to help prevent a fall. Lupe had first taken the International Falls trail a year ago. Back then, there had been only 1 rope. 4 was better! Not that Lupe needed any help. As usual, the American Dingo managed to get down all on her own.

At the bottom of the short, steep descent at the start of the International Falls trail. Photo looks NNE.

This late in the season, Captain William Moore Creek was very low, an easy rock hop for SPHP. Loopster easily waded across. Beyond a delta created by a tributary coming in from the W, the International Falls trail started up a slope full of bushes and stunted conifers. After gaining 200 feet, the trail continued higher along the N side of the tributary taking Lupe past a series of waterfalls.

The waterfalls weren’t as impressive as they had been in early August, 2017. The volume of flow had been much greater then, but they were still charming.

**Captain William Moore Creek** was an easy rock hop this time of year. Photo looks SW.

One of many waterfalls along the International Falls trail. Photo looks SW.

The trail kept climbing at a moderate pace. Somewhere along the way, Lupe left British Columbia and crossed into Alaska, but exactly where wasn’t clear. The border was unmarked.

Continuing up the slope, probably in Alaska by now. Photo looks NW.

None of the waterfalls were terribly high, but Lupe went by lots of them.

Approaching the tallest waterfalls. Photo looks NW.

*This is it! The biggest waterfall along the International Falls trail!* Photo looks W.

Just above the tallest of the waterfalls along the International Falls trail, the stream flowed over a wide area of exposed bedrock. The water was so spread out, it was only inches deep, if that.

Above the biggest waterfall. Photo looks WSW.

The trail went on and on. Lupe kept coming to more waterfalls, but the steepness of the slope she was climbing was diminishing. The waterfalls were becoming smaller, and eventually deteriorated into mere rapids.

Looking back after getting beyond the biggest waterfalls. The South Klondike Highway where Lupe had started out from is in sight. Photo looks SE.

Smaller waterfalls ahead. Photo looks WNW.

Loop stayed on the International Falls trail until the terrain leveled out so much that the South Klondike Highway could no longer be seen back to the SE. Ahead, the trail continued on to the NW, still following the stream and gradually gaining elevation.

Lupe had seen what was up there a year ago. The trail would eventually disappear in a region of beautiful little lakes and small rocky ridges all down in a vast saddle between Feather Peak (5,889 ft.) and other high ground to the S, and Peak 6053 to the N. At the far NW end, a gigantic boulder sat atop a final ridge. Beyond it, the land sloped steeply away into the seemingly bottomless Taiya River canyon, where the famed Chilkoot Trail lay hidden below.

And beyond that? An inaccessible vast wilderness of seldom seen, much less explored, mostly nameless glacier-clad Alaskan peaks.

Yes! More than a year ago, Lupe had journeyed to that magical region of sparkling ponds and spectacular views on a sunny day of soft breezes.

As enticing as that magical place was, it wasn’t her destination today. Lupe was leaving the International Falls trail here to climb Peak 6053, where, if successful, she would see those same incredible views from a lofty summit 2,000 feet higher than where she’d been before.

**Peak 6053** from close to where Lupe left the International Falls trail. Photo looks NNW.

Zoomed in on some of the territory Lupe was going to be exploring. Photo looks NNW.

*If you ever come to the International Falls trail and don’t feel like climbing mountains, just keep going this way to the magical land of sparkling ponds and spectacular views!* Photo looks NW.

A final look back to the SE before leaving the International Falls trail.

Leaving the International Falls trail behind, Lupe began a long, easy trek NNW toward Peak 6053. Wandering a boulder-strewn plain of spongy tundra, the American Dingo gained elevation steadily. Upon reaching the SE end of the mountain, she came to a tiny rock-filled creek.

On the way across the boulder-strewn plain. Photo looks NNW.

At the tiny creek at the SE end of the mountain. Photo looks N.

Crossing the stream, Looper started climbing NNW much more steeply toward a big ravine coming down from the W. Following narrow ramps and benches, Lupe gained a fair amount of elevation rather quickly. She was already getting to some worthwhile views! Feather Peak (5,889 ft.) in particular was looking awesome!

**Feather Peak** (L) and **Mount Cleveland (6,362 ft.)** (R). Photo looks S.

**Feather Peak** (Center) and **Mount Cleveland** (far R). Photo looks SSW.

Looking back. The South Klondike Highway is on the L. The broad valley the International Falls trail follows goes from the highway all the way to the R and well beyond. Photo looks SE.

Upon reaching the S side of the big ravine, Lupe could see a steep, rocky gully entering the ravine from the N. High above and beyond this gully was a line of dark cliffs. Near the upper end of the gully was a lower line of cliffs, but it looked like there were ramps leading up through breaks in this cliff wall. Once above the lower cliffs, Loop ought to at least be able to scramble up to the base of the dark cliffs.

Crossing the ravine, Lupe climbed to the upper end of the gully without difficulty. Here she turned W looking for an easy way to get above the lower cliffs. However, this area was rougher than it had seemed from below. What had appeared to be the best ramp higher, actually ended with a bit of an exposed scramble.

At the upper end of the gully after crossing the big ravine. Photo looks N.

Below the lower line of cliffs looking for an easy way up. Photo looks WNW.

Still along the base of the lower cliffs. Lupe went up to the R from here. **Feather Peak** (L) and **Mount Cleveland** (Center). Photo looks SW.

SPHP hates exposure! After all, should a mishap occur, it takes very little exposure to kill or seriously injure, which might easily amount to the same thing way out here. However, the exposed section appeared to be very short, and Lupe had no better prospect in sight. Didn’t look that bad, so up she went.

The Carolina Dog showed off, easily scrambling above the tricky spot. A couple of cautious moments later, SPHP joined her up on the brink.

Above the short exposed climb. Photo looks SW.

Excellent news! No more exposure to deal with! Breaks existed in the line of dark cliffs that still loomed considerably higher along the upper rim of a steep rocky slope. Lupe had no problem scrambling clear to the top. Above the dark cliffs, a rumpled flat area provided access to a somewhat easier climb NW up another slope. Exploring ever higher, Lupe managed to get up to where this slope began to level out.

By now the American Dingo had gained a great deal of elevation! Lupe had reached a world of rock, sky, and little else. Lichens and sparse clumps of tundra were the only vegetation. Magnificent views were on display! Lupe could see much of the Tormented Valley to the NE and E, and fabulous mountains to the SE and S. However, incredible snow and ice-draped peaks beyond the Taiya River canyon to the SW caught the eye more than any other scene.

In the rumpled area atop the dark cliffs. Photo looks NE.

Looking W upon reaching more level territory after a big climb.

Same view with more help from the telephoto lens.

Jagged peaks to the SW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

To the NW, Lupe could now see an enormous rocky slope rising toward Peak 6053’s massive main ridge. Getting to this upper ridge proved more complicated than it looked. A series of gashes running SW/NE sliced across this region perpendicular to the direction Loopster needed to go. Exploring this rugged area was fun, but time-consuming. The Carolina Dog often came to small cliffs, and had to go back and forth looking for ways into and out of the gashes.

Two steps up, one step down! Lupe and SPHP repeatedly gained and lost the same elevation during a long, winding ascent.

An enormous rocky slope leads up to Peak 6053’s massive main ridge. Photo looks NW.

Looking down one of the gashes. **Mount Cleveland** on the L. Photo looks SW.

Searching for a way down into one of the deepest gashes. Photo looks NE.

Finally nearing the E end of Peak 6053’s massive upper ridge, Lupe came to another sizable gash. On the far side was a wall of white rock. Loop crossed the gash, and found a way up onto it.

From a distance, more gashes had been evident up on the main ridge, so SPHP had been thinking maybe Lupe ought to skirt along the S side to get closer to the W end before climbing to the top. That way Loop would gain the upper ridge much closer to the true summit of Peak 6053, which the topo map showed at the far NW end of the mountain.

However, from the wall of white rock, it was clear that this notion was totally impractical. The terrain S of the main ridge was simply too steep and rough. Loop’s only realistic option appeared to be to climb straight to the top of the E end of the main ridge, and take her chances from there. A gully of light-colored rock looked like a possible route up.

Getting close to Peak 6053’s main ridge, Lupe comes to the gash with a wall of white rock on the opposite side. Photo looks NW.

Up on a darker part of the next little ridge connected to the wall of white rock after crossing the gash. Photo looks SW.

The **E end of Peak 6053’s massive main ridge**. Looked like Lupe could get up there via the light colored gully on the R. Photo looks N.

Staying on top of the wall of white rock, Lupe headed NNE toward the promising gully. The wall ended near a snowbank next to a big pool of meltwater. Loop had to down climb and work her way past these minor obstacles before scrambling up the gully.

At the NNE end of the wall of white rock. Lupe had to get past the snow bank and its meltwater before climbing straight up the gully on the L. Photo looks NNE.

At the top of the gully, Lupe found herself in a fairly flat area an acre or two in size. Venturing N brought her to the edge of towering cliffs. For the first time, Lupe could see the gigantic canyon between Peak 6053 and Taiya Peak (6,844 ft.) to the N. She now also had a view to the NW.

Similar view with more help from the telephoto lens.

A tall dark rock outcropping sat at the NE end of the flattish area. Lupe went over and climbed it. Views of the Tormented Valley from here were fantastic! Loop could again see the International Falls trailhead she had started out from way down at the South Klondike Highway.

The **Tormented Valley** from a high point at the E end of Peak 6053. **Summit Lake** is on the R. **Bernard and Shallow lakes** are farther away L of Center. Photo looks NE.

Looking back toward the International Falls trailhead (just about dead Center) along the South Klondike Highway. Photo looks SE.

One view in particular from here was of paramount importance. For the first time, Lupe could see along the length of the N side of Peak 6053’s main ridge. The mountain’s true summit was clear over at the far NW end completely opposite of where the American Dingo was now.

The view was worrying. Felt like Lupe had already been climbing for a long time. Peak 6053’s summit was a little less than 500 feet higher than where she was now, but it still looked far away. Much closer, a big fin of rock jutted skyward. Would Loop be able to get past it? A deep gash might easily be on the other side.

Looking along the length of the N side of Peak 6053’s massive main ridge. The summit still looked far away, and SPHP was concerned about whether Lupe would be able to get beyond the big fin of rock on the L. Photo looks WNW.

Similar view from the NE high point. Photo looks WNW.

No choice, but to head over there and find out. The terrain leading to the fin was rocky and sloped higher, but not difficult. The N end of the fin was close to the gigantic cliffs, and trying to go over the top seemed a poor choice too. However, going around the S end looked quite feasible. The big question was what Lupe would find on the other side?

Another look NW before heading for the fin.

Looking back down at the way Lupe had made it up to the E end of Peak 6053’s main ridge. The snow bank she had passed before coming up the steep gully is seen below on the L. Photo looks SW.

Lupe got quite high on the S end of the big fin. Going this way was a cinch! Nothing to it! Best of all was the view Loopster had once she got to where she could see the area W of the fin. No big gashes or drop offs! In fact, once beyond the fin, it didn’t look like a fin at all from the W.

The Carolina Dog now made rapid progress journeying WNW along the broad main ridge. She crossed a series of gashes, but none presented any real difficulties. Lupe actually lost elevation approaching a final big drainage that sloped down toward the SW. Staying toward the N edge near the cliffs, Lupe had little difficulty getting past it.

WNW of the fin approaching the last big drainage. Lupe stayed to the N (R) near the cliffs to get past it. Photo looks NW.

**Taiya Peak (6,844 ft.)** (R) from the N edge. Photo looks NNE.

Near the last big drainage. Photo looks NW.

Looking NE toward the **Tormented Valley** with help from the telephoto lens. Part of **Summit Lake** on the R. **Bernard and Shallow lakes** on the L.

Beyond the last big drainage, Lupe roamed freely heading NW on a broad slope. A maze of benches and ramps led higher and higher. This climb wasn’t hard at all; no more going down into gullies! Loop was having fun, and SPHP was joyful knowing that the summit couldn’t be much farther. Lupe was actually going to get to the top of Peak 6053!

The terrain finally leveled out in a rough area. What? Oh, no! This wasn’t the top! Quite close by, the highest point on the mountain was clearly visible a short distance off to the N. Definitely higher, though not by much, than where Lupe was now, the true summit of Peak 6053 sat isolated beyond one more good-sized drop. Whether the Carolina Dog could get over there or not wasn’t initially clear, but the situation didn’t look good. Gah! All this way, only to fail!

Some old wooden boards were toward the SW end of the rough area, part of a collapsed wooden tripod. SPHP lifted a couple of rocks off a pile beneath the boards to reveal a survey benchmark dated 1936.

Loop by the wreck of a wooden tripod. Photo looks SW.

The survey benchmark hidden beneath rocks under the tripod.

Lovely. Apparently the surveyor hadn’t thought it possible to get over to the true summit, and had settled for this location instead. Discouraging! After replacing the rocks over the benchmark, Lupe and SPHP went over to the edge of the final drop off to take a better look.

30 feet lower, a snow bank rested in a gash shorter than any others Lupe had come to. Both ends dropped away into fearsome chasms. At first, it didn’t look like there was any safe way to scramble down. Loop had to do it, though, if she was ever going to get to the top of Peak 6053.

Overlooking the final short gash preventing Lupe from getting to the **true summit of Peak 6053** (Center). Photo looks NNW.

There was a way down! Looked like Loop ought to be able to get back up it again during the return, too – critically important, if there ever was going to be a return. A quick, careful scramble, and Lupe was standing on the snow bank!

Success! Safely down on the snow bank in the last gash. Photo looks W.

The snow bank was more like ice than snow. Staying away from the NE edge where the drop was almost vertical, Lupe crossed only a short icy section before completing her long journey to the top of Peak 6053. The true summit was a light gray boulder. The American Dingo hopped up onto it to claim one of her most remarkable peakbagging successes ever.

At the **true summit of Peak 6053**! The main ridge Lupe had come up is visible on the R. Photo looks ESE.

**Taiya Peak** (L of Lupe) from the true summit of **Peak 6053**. Photo looks NE.

Still at the true summit. **Mount Cleveland** is beyond Lupe. **Mount Carmack (6,808 ft.)** is the high point in the distance on the L. Photo looks SSW.

SPHP praised Lupe highly, but the Carolina Dog didn’t seem impressed. Looper willingly participated in a few photos of some of the incredible glacier-clad peaks in Alaska to the W, but after that she just wanted to rest. Using a jacket and a pullover, SPHP made a little bed where she could doze more comfortably on the rocky ground.

Looking W into Alaska. The summit of Peak 6053 is barely inside British Columbia.

Lupe had been politely begging SPHP to stop for hours. Several short breaks had been taken, but this was her first real chance to snooze a bit. Photo looks SW.

Lupe’s 4th day of big climbs in a row, and it had taken 7 hours to get here.

While Lupe rested, SPHP gazed at the unbelievably beautiful remote peaks toward the W.

Looking SW with help from the telephoto lens.

The high point toward the L at the upper end of the glaciers in the foreground may be **Mount Hoffman (6,079 ft.)**. The even higher mountain beyond it may be the **Skagway High Point (8,239 ft.)**. Photo looks W.

The telephoto lens revealed an incredible world of spectacular peaks so inaccessible few have names.

Peak 6053’s summit area was about 40 feet wide E/W and 70 feet long N/S. A similar sized area about 20 feet lower extended farther N. So there was plenty of room to move around. At the N end of the summit area, 35 feet from the boulder Lupe had been on, a less conspicuous rock looked equally high. Might even be a tad bit higher? SPHP went over to check it out, came to no definite conclusion, then ventured down to the lower region to the N where it was possible to look down on a glacier.

As tired as Lupe was, she wasn’t completely out of it. Fearing she was being left behind, Loop came looking for SPHP. Weary or not, the loyal American Dingo stuck closely to SPHP from then on.

On the rock at the N end that was in competition for title of true summit of Peak 6053. **Taiya Peak** beyond Lupe. Photo looks NE.

Still on the N high point. Photo looks S.

Looking down on the glacier. Photo looks N.

Upper end of the glacier and **Taiya Peak** (R). Photo looks NNE.

Looking over the **Taiya River canyon** and the glacier’s toe. Photo looks NW.

Nearly the whole glacier with a bit of help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks N.

Lupe was so lucky! Although the sky had remained quite cloudy all day, conditions at the top of Peak 6053 weren’t bad at all. Cool (low 40’s °F), but calm. Importantly, the cloud deck was high enough to permit clear views of even the highest and most distant peaks. Nothing was hidden. Every now and then, the Carolina Dog stood in glimmers of sunshine.

Getting late. Should be moving on, but Lupe and SPHP lingered in the splendor of Peak 6053. Glory at every turn!

Peak 6053’s narrow SW ridge in the foreground. Photo looks SW.

What is that monstrous peak looming on the far horizon? It must have a name! Photo looks SW with maximum help from the telephoto lens.

**Mount Carmack (6,808 ft.)** (R of Center) looks dramatic through the telephoto lens. Photo looks S.

Way down at the bottom of the **Taiya River canyon**, the famed **Chilkoot Trail** from gold rush days passes from Skagway, Alaska to Chilkoot Pass at the Canadian border, then on to Carcross in the Yukon Territory. Photo looks W.

Another look at **Peak 6053’s SW ridge**. **Mount Cleveland** (L) with **Mount Carmacks** (far L) more distant. Photo looks SSW.

Simply no end of stunning peaks and glaciers!

7 hours to get here. 50 unforgettable minutes gone by up at the summit of Peak 6053! 3 hours until sunset. Sadly, time to go. Past time, actually.

Not far from the summit boulder, Lupe stood perched by the W edge of the mountain overlooking the unseen depths of the Taiya River canyon. Beyond the gaping chasm, a fabulous world of pristine peaks cloaked in glacial ice – ancient, creeping ice still locking in the frigid cold of countless dark winters eons ago.

Fleeting last moments at the top of Peak 6053!

The race against time was on! Back down to the short gash and its icy snow bank. A careful scramble up to the rough area where the survey marker lay hidden beneath rocks and old boards. Down the ramps and benches to the big drainage to the SW.

Now, a calculated, crucial gamble. If it didn’t succeed, Lupe was going to be stuck on Peak 6053 all night. No way on earth could she get down off the mountain before dark going back the way she had come up. Lupe and SPHP turned SW heading down the big drainage. If the American Dingo cliffed out, a very long night was ahead.

Starting down the big drainage near the W end of Peak 6053. Photo looks SSW.

Far, far below, Lupe could see the little lakes of the magical region she had visited beyond the end of the International Falls trail on a beautiful evening more than a year ago. The lakes weren’t sparkling today, but if she could get down close to them, Loopster ought to be able to find the International Falls trail again before dark.

Down steep ramps and gullies, down rough loose rock, down scrambling around rock formations trying to avoid getting cliffed out.

Getting there, but still a long way to go.

Another chute. The far W end of the International Falls area at the edge of the Taiya River canyon is in sight.

At last, success was certain. Loop’s gamble was going to pay off! Once she made it down to where the slope became more gradual, SPHP turned and looked back up. Lupe hadn’t cliffed out, but it sure looked like she should have.

The Carolina Dog was thrilled to be out of all the rock! She wasn’t nearly as tired as she’d let on up on Peak 6053. In fact, Lupe was energized! She raced across the soft tundra far ahead of SPHP joyfully exploring a land of ridges and little streams, glancing back now and then to make sure SPHP was still coming.

Lupe never did get close to most of those once sparkling little lakes again. However, in the distance, she did see the huge boulder on the far W ridge that she had visited a year ago. Instead of going all the way to the lakes, Lupe took a shortcut turning SE as soon as it was practical. The American Dingo roamed a long way. She finally stumbled upon the International Falls trail again, as she passed by a couple of little ponds reflecting the last glowing beauty of the dying day.

Peak 6053 was the final and most difficult of 4 climbs on 4 consecutive days. SPHP’s feet had become sore on the rough terrain even before Lupe had reached the summit. Although the return trip was the easiest possible route back, it was still a long march. Hobbling along, each step became more difficult to bear.

Darkness fell. SPHP sometimes lost the trail. Loopster usually found it again in just a minute or two. The roar of the now invisible waterfalls the trail went by went on and on. At last, it was over. Across Captain William Moore Creek, and up the ropes. The G6 sat waiting alone at the dark trailhead. (10:46 PM, 47°F)

So sore! So weary! Yet, what a day! As it turned out, Lupe had likely taken about the longest, hardest route to the top of Peak 6053 possible. Clearly, the way she had taken back was the fastest, easiest way to go. What an experience it had been though – the long treks higher on all that rough ground, wandering the wild gashes and gullies, then exploring along the whole massive main ridge.

And at the end of it all, the American Dingo had done what she had set out to do – Lupe had once more gazed over the depths of the enormous Taiya River canyon into a world of ice, snow, and jagged peaks, a world in sight, but forever beyond reach, this time seen from the lofty heights of Peak 6053.

On **Peak 6053**, British Columbia, Canada 9-11-18

Directions to the International Falls trailhead: The trailhead is a pullout less than a kilometer inside the Canadian border along the W side of the South Klondike Highway. This pullout is located 7.5 miles (12 km) S of Canadian Customs. Coming from Skagway, the trailhead is the 2nd pullout on the L shortly after crossing the high point of the highway near White Pass. A small lake is visible down in the creek valley W of the highway.

There are no facilities or information at the trailhead other than a sign about avalanche dangers. The trailhead is located between US Customs and Canadian Customs, so it will always be necessary to pass through one or the other on the way back to either Skagway or Carcross. Remember to bring appropriate documentation!

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

International Falls, Canada to Alaska (8-8-17)

Fraser Peak, British Columbia, Canada (8-9-17)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.