Day 9 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
Skagway was hopping! Three more cruise ships had arrived in port overnight. Shops and sidewalks were jammed with tourists, saloon girls were conducting tours, and throngs of people were lined up waiting to take the scenic White Pass & Yukon Route railroad.
It was a gorgeous summer morning, but neither Lupe nor SPHP was feeling terribly ambitious yet. Both were a bit drained from Lupe’s successful long climb of AB Mountain (5,036 ft.) yesterday. Loop and SPHP took a stroll along a creek near the train station. The American Dingo could see the start of the long AB Mountain ridge from here.
The morning shot by consumed by various errands. After breakfast, SPHP inquired at the Skagway Sea Terminal about the price to take the Alaska Marine Highway to Haines from here. The one hour trip was $32 for SPHP plus $56 for the G6. Something to think about. There were stops at a couple of shops for souvenirs and postcards, for supplies at the IGA, and trip to a dilapidated gas station for fuel for the G6.
Lupe had the most important errand of all. Yesterday the Carolina Dog had made it all the way to the true summit of AB Mountain (5,036 ft.), a feat which made her a member of the Arctic Sisterhood. Of course, as a new member Loop was anxious to check in at the Arctic Brotherhood hall in Skagway to inform them of her recent exploit. She was excited to let them know how happy and proud she was to join the gang, and find out what duties she might have. She also wanted SPHP to ask about any membership benefits she was entitled to, as well.
The news was shocking! The Arctic Brotherhood had been defunct since 1924! The Arctic Brotherhood hall was now only a tourist information center. They knew nothing about the Arctic Sisterhood, and seemed not to have ever even heard of it.
Poor Lupe was so disillusioned! All that way to the true summit of AB Mountain, and now nothing at all to show for it. Looper’s soft ears drooped. SPHP could see in her eyes how downcast and disappointed she felt. SPHP tried hard to make it all better.
Why, you lucky Dingo! I never dreamed you would have it so good joining the Arctic Sisterhood!
Lucky! Have you completely lost your marbles, SPHP? If I weren’t an American Dingo, I would just cry! The Arctic Brotherhood is dead and gone. It’s ancient history! Even worse, there never was an Arctic Sisterhood. They don’t know a thing about it.
Silly Carolina Dog! Don’t you realize what this means?
Of course, I do. It means no awesome new friends with adventuring spirits to share future arctic exploits with. It means no cool Arctic Sisterhood official membership card. No fancy new Arctic Sisterhood adventure collar. Not even an Arctic Sisterhood top secret pawshake!
Oh, how you go on! What it means is, you are the newly minted sole and founding member of the Arctic Sisterhood! Why, you are President of the whole dang organization, or whatever you want to be called. You did get to the true summit of AB Mountain, you know.
Others must have, too, SPHP. Yet there isn’t an Arctic Sisterhood.
Well, it’s not your fault if no one else bothered to start it up. You can!
What fun is it, if there aren’t any other members?
Tell you what. I’ll be your first member. If you want more than that, you’ll have to think about recruiting some more. Maybe when we’re back home after this Dingo Vacation you could invite Rebecca Riordan? She was super nice to you yesterday on AB Mountain, and even has a grandma named Lupe. You might meet other worthy candidates on this Dingo Vacation, too.
Worthy candidates? You don’t really qualify, SPHP, and Rebecca never made it to the true summit of AB Mountain.
Are you kidding me? You haven’t been President 5 minutes and already no one meets your highfalutin standards. I was right there with you at the true summit, and Rebecca made it up the steepest part of the trail. Sean and Rebecca had to turn around so they didn’t miss their departure time aboard the Explorer of the Seas. It’s not Rebecca’s fault she didn’t have time enough to go all the way to the top.
Just starting out, you’re going to have to show some flexibility. Make us honorary members or something like that. If you want to be so cold as to weed us out after things are going great and you have plenty of members, I suppose you can. But that’s cold, real cold. What can you expect, though, from someone who is President of the Arctic Sisterhood?
Simply talking about the Arctic Sisterhood was having the desired effect. The Carolina Dog was perking up, looking happier already.
Maybe you’re right, SPHP. Except for one thing.
What’s that?
I don’t want to be President.
Oh, why not? I’m not going to be President, and Rebecca doesn’t even know about it yet.
You said I could be called anything I want to as founding member of the Arctic Sisterhood, right?
Yes …. I suppose I did …. so what do you want to be called?
Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood. Kind of has a nice peakbagging ring to it, don’t you think?
It does. Not to mention the humility angle. This is all kind of going straight to that noggin of yours, isn’t it? Why do I get the feeling I’m about to be ruled with an iron paw?
What’s new and different about that?
Oh, yeah. Hmmm. Got me there. Good point! I ought to warn Rebecca.
OK, now that that’s settled, what do you think the Arctic Sisterhood should do first, SPHP? Any suggestions?
Yes indeed. I think your first official act as Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood should be to go on another adventure.
Oh, I don’t know, SPHP. I’m sort of tired after AB Mountain yesterday. Besides, the day is half shot already. Wasn’t this going to be a rest day?
Nope, and there’s a perfect place to go to nearby, Loop, err, I mean Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood. Say, do you mind if I just call you Lupe most of the time except during official membership meetings, special occasions, and such? Your new title is kind of a mouthful.
This is a special occasion! A very special one! It’s the first day of the new Arctic Sisterhood! However, since it’s just you and me, SPHP, Lupe is fine for now as long as you show proper decorum when others are present.
Gee, thanks. I’ll try to remember that. Anyway, as I was saying, there is a great adventure that’s not too hard, and not too far away. Remember your friend Australian Adventurer Luke Hall who you met up on Gunsight Mountain last year? He suggested this adventure. It’s called International Falls.
There’s a trail along a beautiful stream with a lovely series of cascades and waterfalls. Only 1,000 feet of elevation gain to where the trail fades away, but it’s possible to wander farther to an overlook with some great glacier-clad mountain views. None of it is really difficult except for a short steep stretch at the very start. The adventure starts in Canada, but the trail soon crosses the US border into Alaska. What do you say?
You’re absolutely right, SPHP! We should do some kind of memorable outdoor adventure on the Arctic Sisterhood’s first day. International Falls sounds gorgeous and not too strenuous. I like it. If there’s still time, let’s do it!
Lupe and SPHP were soon on the way out of Skagway on the South Klondike Highway (No. 98). Shortly after reaching the end of the steep, long climb past US Customs to the high point where the highway reaches the Tormented Valley W of White Pass, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood crossed the Canadian border gracing British Columbia with her presence.
SPHP parked the G6 at the second, lower big pullout on the W (L) side of the highway. (3:38 PM, 64°F) Lupe was only a fraction of a kilometer into British Columbia. Canadian Customs was still 7.5 miles (12 km) farther N. From the edge of an embankment beside the pullout, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood peered more than 100 feet down into a valley to the W.
Two small lakes were in the valley, connected by a stream. The larger, upstream lake was to the N. Across the valley, another stream flowed down a long, rocky slope of stunted dark green conifers. This stream cascaded down a series of waterfalls to a light green alluvial fan where it joined forces with the stream from the larger lake to the N. Captain William Moore Creek, shown on the map as the name of the combined streams, flowed S to the smaller lake.
This whole area looked heavily glaciated, having a scraped down to bedrock appearance typical of the Tormented Valley. The upper spires of high sharp peaks were seen some distance to the SW.
The hardest part of the whole International Falls trail was just getting down from the highway to the creek in the valley below the trailhead safely. Starting out, the trail was only moderately steep, and Lupe could have followed several different worn paths. They all led to a single stupidly steep eroded route going down the lower part of the embankment.
Near the bottom, a rope fastened somewhere above was strung down the worst part of the trail. Without it, SPHP’s International Falls adventure might have been over already with a dramatic, not too enjoyable, gravity-assisted splat. The rope would have been even better, if it had been another 10 or 15 feet longer, but SPHP did manage to arrive in one piece at the bottom of the embankment.
Perhaps the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood sprouted wings and flew down when SPHP wasn’t looking. However she did it, she was standing next to Captain William Moore Creek when SPHP turned around to face the stream.
Lupe was somewhat intimidated by the width of Captain William Moore Creek, but the beautiful stream was actually quite shallow this time of year. SPHP crossed first, to show Looper how easy it was. Even the deepest part was only knee deep on SPHP. Of course, knee deep is swimming depth for the Carolina Dog. Nevertheless, Lupe was encouraged by SPHP’s success and made her way across.
Having made it across Captain William Moore Creek, Lupe and SPHP were in for a gorgeous afternoon and evening of easy hiking amid dazzlingly spectacular scenery. The hardest part was over already! Lupe led the way along the American Falls trail across the the alluvial fan, and started up the long, gentle slope to the W.
Above the alluvial fan, the trail became braided in bushy areas interspersed with stands of stunted conifers. Lupe stuck to the paths farthest S, which were closest to the stream coming down from the W. She soon reached the first notable cascade along the American Falls trail.
Of course, the higher Lupe went, the better the views got. The American Dingo came to many lovely waterfalls, cascades and rapids.
Somewhere along the way, 0.5 mile more or less from the highway, Lupe left British Columbia crossing the US border into Alaska. No sign existed to indicate exactly where the border was, but it was still rather cool to cross from one country to another traveling the International Falls trail.
The stream eventually split into 3 tributaries. The trail turned more to the NW following the largest tributary. Lupe was now climbing some of the steepest terrain of the whole journey, but it wasn’t bad at all. The rate of climb was still moderate. Loopster was soon approaching the tallest waterfall along the whole trail.
Since the creek had divided lower down, the tallest waterfall did not have quite as much flow as other falls Lupe had already come to, but it plunged over a wall of rock in such lovely fashion Loop wanted SPHP to take a couple pictures of her here for the Arctic Sisterhood archives.
Above the tallest waterfall, Lupe paused to look back at the view to the E to see how much progress she’d made. She could see the South Klondike Highway where she’d started out from, and a line of mountains beyond the rocky, rugged terrain of the Tormented Valley.
There were still more waterfalls, cascades and rapids above the tallest waterfall, but the terrain was beginning to change. The trail was still gaining elevation steadily, but more slowly than before. The waterfalls, though still beautiful, were shrinking in size.
Eventually the land to the W was rising so gradually that Lupe reached the end of the waterfall territory. The International Falls trail still went on for a while, though. This was pretty territory, too, just somewhat different from what came before. Lupe and SPHP were having such a good time that Loop kept right on going.
Instead of waterfalls, Lupe now came to a series of ponds and little lakes connected by the creek. Countless small tributaries babbled down from the hillsides. Loop continued onward staying N of the ponds and lakes. She sometimes had to cross some of the side streams. None of them were very large.
Maybe it was just the way the evening sunlight was reflecting off all the little lakes, ponds and streams, but this vast alpine tundra beyond the waterfalls seemed even more beautiful. SPHP wished Lupe had more time left in the day, there were so many places one might explore!
Some of the small lakes were simply drop dead gorgeous!
The International Falls trail was gradually fading away. Eventually it would be lost for good. That didn’t really matter. The terrain was so open, it was easy to see where to go. Lupe kept heading NW toward a saddle that seemed to always retreat a little higher and farther away every time it appeared she ought to be getting close.
As the Carolina Dog journeyed farther into the lake country, new glories started to appear. Lupe began getting much improved views of some of the more distant higher mountains. She could see Feather Peak (5,889 ft.) (1,795 m) to the S. The upper snow and glacier clad portions of Mount Hoffman (6,079 ft.) (1,853 m) appeared ahead to the NW.
Soon Looper could see Mount Cleveland (6,362 ft.), too.
Lupe came to many false “summits” of the saddle she was trying to reach. Somewhat higher ground always appeared farther ahead. The American Dingo entered more rugged territory traveling over a series of low, rocky ridges. These ridges and the gaps between them were nearly all oriented SW/NE much like the gashes Lupe had come to only yesterday up on the AB Mountain ridge.
This region of low ridges was also where Lupe came to the largest of the small lakes. Every ridge Lupe crossed revealed new, beautiful territory beyond it. This sort of alpine high country is Lupe’s favorite of all. She sniffed and explored everywhere, pausing frequently to gaze out over the paradise ahead from each succeeding ridge.
A massive mountain to the N blocked any further views in that direction. It didn’t look hard to climb, though Lupe didn’t have time to do it today. The summit, which was not in view, was across the border a short distance into Canada. The topo map showed the summit of this mountain, Peak 6053 (1,845 m), overlooking a vast snowfield or glacier.
None of all that could be seen from down here, but the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood agreed Peak 6053 (1,845 m) should be kept in mind for future Arctic Sisterhood expeditions.
Loopster went on and on, crossing more rocky ridges, coming to more sparkling lakes and ponds, leaping over more trickling streams. Finally, the end was in sight. A large boulder sat atop the last ridge, it was the high point of the saddle she had been heading toward all this time.
Lupe and SPHP pressed on to that boulder on the final ridge. Beyond it, the ground sloped down ever more steeply toward a gigantic canyon. At the bottom of this canyon was the famed Chilkoot Trail of Klondike gold rush days, which follows the Taiya River here on the way from Dyea near Skagway to Bennett Lake.
None of the lower regions of the canyon could be seen from the boulder, so Lupe went another 100 yards farther down the slope. It became clear she would have to lose more elevation than it seemed to be worth to really be able to see way down anywhere close to the bottom. SPHP called a halt. This was good enough.
The scenic prize the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood had come to claim was stretched out before her beyond the immense canyon – a wondrous pristine white and shadow blue world of snow, ice and wild jagged mountains.
The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood and SPHP spent 20 minutes together gazing upon the wondrous scene while the sun sank slowly toward the icy solitude of the Alaskan wilderness.
With perhaps 2 hours to go before sundown, Lupe returned to the big boulder on the ridge. She climbed up on this landmark for a last look around.
On the return trip there was need for some speed. Sunset was only a couple of hours away. Crossing all the low ridges near the beautiful lakes had been a gorgeous route, but this time Lupe and SPHP stayed farther N. Lupe actually gained elevation, and held it for quite a distance. For more than a mile, she could look back and still see the big boulder she’d been on at the last ridge W.
The return trip was pure fun! It was all wonderful and exquisitely beautiful. Lupe ran and explored and played wild Alaskan Dingo, while SPHP marched on.
Loop was back on the International Falls trail long before reaching the waterfalls. She got to see all the waterfalls one more time, but they were now in the shadow of the big slope she was coming down from the W.
The last rays of sunlight were disappearing from the mountain peaks when Lupe reached the G6. The Arctic Sisterhood’s first ever expedition had been a grand success! At first Lupe was so pleased, she forgot how long it had been since she’d had much to eat. She finally did remember, though, and Dingoed down an entire can of Alpo in nothing flat.
The Most Weary Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood then curled up on her pile of pillows and blankets. SPHP pulled her blankie over her. Loop went out like a light, beginning the process of gathering strength for the Arctic Sisterhood’s next big adventure. Which was a good thing, for that next big adventure was just around the corner.
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