International Falls Trail – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

On & Off the International Falls Trail to Peak 6053, British Columbia, Canada (9-11-18)

Day 39 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

6:30 AM, Nares Mountain trailhead, Blattas Point Road – Nooooo! Late last night, silver stars had shone overhead as the tired American Dingo settled in for a long snooze. The sky had been 80 to 90% clear! Hopes had been high for Peak 6053 this morning, but that was then. Lupe had just woken up to a dreary uniformly overcast day. SPHP was dismayed. Loopster’s final chance for an ascent of Peak 6053 on this Dingo Vacation appeared doomed.

At least it wasn’t raining. Maybe the situation would improve in the next hour or two? Seemed unlikely, and certainly no sense sticking around if Peak 6053 simply wasn’t going to happen, but Loop could wait a little while before hitting the road home. While SPHP straightened out the G6 and made breakfast, the Carolina Dog explored a nearby grove of trees.

8:00 AM – Hmm. The clouds seemed higher and thinner than before. Didn’t look like rain was likely at all. Provided the mountains remained beneath the cloud cover, an attempt on Peak 6053 was actually worth considering! Even if the sun never came out, Lupe might still enjoy some incredible views. Now or never! Lupe and SPHP piled into the G6.

Hopes soared during the drive S from Carcross on the South Klondike Highway. Expecting darker skies closer to the Alaskan coast, conditions were improving instead! Far from a perfect day, but the cloud cover was getting higher, lighter, brighter, and even tinged with blue!

9:41 AM, 41°F – Upon arriving at the International Falls trailhead just N of the Alaska border near White Pass, even the highest regions of what could be seen of Peak 6053 were out in the open. That settled it! Lupe was going give it a shot!

SE slopes of **Peak 6053** from the International Falls trailhead. Photo looks NW.

The International Falls trail starts out with a short descent to Captain William Moore Creek. The last part of this descent being nearly vertical, SPHP was glad to find 4 ropes in place to help prevent a fall. Lupe had first taken the International Falls trail a year ago. Back then, there had been only 1 rope. 4 was better! Not that Lupe needed any help. As usual, the American Dingo managed to get down all on her own.

At the bottom of the short, steep descent at the start of the International Falls trail. Photo looks NNE.

This late in the season, Captain William Moore Creek was very low, an easy rock hop for SPHP. Loopster easily waded across. Beyond a delta created by a tributary coming in from the W, the International Falls trail started up a slope full of bushes and stunted conifers. After gaining 200 feet, the trail continued higher along the N side of the tributary taking Lupe past a series of waterfalls.

The waterfalls weren’t as impressive as they had been in early August, 2017. The volume of flow had been much greater then, but they were still charming.

**Captain William Moore Creek** was an easy rock hop this time of year. Photo looks SW.

One of many waterfalls along the International Falls trail. Photo looks SW.

The trail kept climbing at a moderate pace. Somewhere along the way, Lupe left British Columbia and crossed into Alaska, but exactly where wasn’t clear. The border was unmarked.

Continuing up the slope, probably in Alaska by now. Photo looks NW.

None of the waterfalls were terribly high, but Lupe went by lots of them.

Approaching the tallest waterfalls. Photo looks NW.

*This is it! The biggest waterfall along the International Falls trail!* Photo looks W.

Just above the tallest of the waterfalls along the International Falls trail, the stream flowed over a wide area of exposed bedrock. The water was so spread out, it was only inches deep, if that.

Above the biggest waterfall. Photo looks WSW.

The trail went on and on. Lupe kept coming to more waterfalls, but the steepness of the slope she was climbing was diminishing. The waterfalls were becoming smaller, and eventually deteriorated into mere rapids.

Looking back after getting beyond the biggest waterfalls. The South Klondike Highway where Lupe had started out from is in sight. Photo looks SE.

Smaller waterfalls ahead. Photo looks WNW.

Loop stayed on the International Falls trail until the terrain leveled out so much that the South Klondike Highway could no longer be seen back to the SE. Ahead, the trail continued on to the NW, still following the stream and gradually gaining elevation.

Lupe had seen what was up there a year ago. The trail would eventually disappear in a region of beautiful little lakes and small rocky ridges all down in a vast saddle between Feather Peak (5,889 ft.) and other high ground to the S, and Peak 6053 to the N. At the far NW end, a gigantic boulder sat atop a final ridge. Beyond it, the land sloped steeply away into the seemingly bottomless Taiya River canyon, where the famed Chilkoot Trail lay hidden below.

And beyond that? An inaccessible vast wilderness of seldom seen, much less explored, mostly nameless glacier-clad Alaskan peaks.

Yes! More than a year ago, Lupe had journeyed to that magical region of sparkling ponds and spectacular views on a sunny day of soft breezes.

As enticing as that magical place was, it wasn’t her destination today. Lupe was leaving the International Falls trail here to climb Peak 6053, where, if successful, she would see those same incredible views from a lofty summit 2,000 feet higher than where she’d been before.

**Peak 6053** from close to where Lupe left the International Falls trail. Photo looks NNW.

Zoomed in on some of the territory Lupe was going to be exploring. Photo looks NNW.

*If you ever come to the International Falls trail and don’t feel like climbing mountains, just keep going this way to the magical land of sparkling ponds and spectacular views!* Photo looks NW.

A final look back to the SE before leaving the International Falls trail.

Leaving the International Falls trail behind, Lupe began a long, easy trek NNW toward Peak 6053. Wandering a boulder-strewn plain of spongy tundra, the American Dingo gained elevation steadily. Upon reaching the SE end of the mountain, she came to a tiny rock-filled creek.

On the way across the boulder-strewn plain. Photo looks NNW.

At the tiny creek at the SE end of the mountain. Photo looks N.

Crossing the stream, Looper started climbing NNW much more steeply toward a big ravine coming down from the W. Following narrow ramps and benches, Lupe gained a fair amount of elevation rather quickly. She was already getting to some worthwhile views! Feather Peak (5,889 ft.) in particular was looking awesome!

**Feather Peak** (L) and **Mount Cleveland (6,362 ft.)** (R). Photo looks S.

**Feather Peak** (Center) and **Mount Cleveland** (far R). Photo looks SSW.

Looking back. The South Klondike Highway is on the L. The broad valley the International Falls trail follows goes from the highway all the way to the R and well beyond. Photo looks SE.

Upon reaching the S side of the big ravine, Lupe could see a steep, rocky gully entering the ravine from the N. High above and beyond this gully was a line of dark cliffs. Near the upper end of the gully was a lower line of cliffs, but it looked like there were ramps leading up through breaks in this cliff wall. Once above the lower cliffs, Loop ought to at least be able to scramble up to the base of the dark cliffs.

Crossing the ravine, Lupe climbed to the upper end of the gully without difficulty. Here she turned W looking for an easy way to get above the lower cliffs. However, this area was rougher than it had seemed from below. What had appeared to be the best ramp higher, actually ended with a bit of an exposed scramble.

At the upper end of the gully after crossing the big ravine. Photo looks N.

Below the lower line of cliffs looking for an easy way up. Photo looks WNW.

Still along the base of the lower cliffs. Lupe went up to the R from here. **Feather Peak** (L) and **Mount Cleveland** (Center). Photo looks SW.

SPHP hates exposure! After all, should a mishap occur, it takes very little exposure to kill or seriously injure, which might easily amount to the same thing way out here. However, the exposed section appeared to be very short, and Lupe had no better prospect in sight. Didn’t look that bad, so up she went.

The Carolina Dog showed off, easily scrambling above the tricky spot. A couple of cautious moments later, SPHP joined her up on the brink.

Above the short exposed climb. Photo looks SW.

Excellent news! No more exposure to deal with! Breaks existed in the line of dark cliffs that still loomed considerably higher along the upper rim of a steep rocky slope. Lupe had no problem scrambling clear to the top. Above the dark cliffs, a rumpled flat area provided access to a somewhat easier climb NW up another slope. Exploring ever higher, Lupe managed to get up to where this slope began to level out.

By now the American Dingo had gained a great deal of elevation! Lupe had reached a world of rock, sky, and little else. Lichens and sparse clumps of tundra were the only vegetation. Magnificent views were on display! Lupe could see much of the Tormented Valley to the NE and E, and fabulous mountains to the SE and S. However, incredible snow and ice-draped peaks beyond the Taiya River canyon to the SW caught the eye more than any other scene.

In the rumpled area atop the dark cliffs. Photo looks NE.

Looking W upon reaching more level territory after a big climb.

Same view with more help from the telephoto lens.

Jagged peaks to the SW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

To the NW, Lupe could now see an enormous rocky slope rising toward Peak 6053’s massive main ridge. Getting to this upper ridge proved more complicated than it looked. A series of gashes running SW/NE sliced across this region perpendicular to the direction Loopster needed to go. Exploring this rugged area was fun, but time-consuming. The Carolina Dog often came to small cliffs, and had to go back and forth looking for ways into and out of the gashes.

Two steps up, one step down! Lupe and SPHP repeatedly gained and lost the same elevation during a long, winding ascent.

An enormous rocky slope leads up to Peak 6053’s massive main ridge. Photo looks NW.

Looking down one of the gashes. **Mount Cleveland** on the L. Photo looks SW.

Searching for a way down into one of the deepest gashes. Photo looks NE.

Finally nearing the E end of Peak 6053’s massive upper ridge, Lupe came to another sizable gash. On the far side was a wall of white rock. Loop crossed the gash, and found a way up onto it.

From a distance, more gashes had been evident up on the main ridge, so SPHP had been thinking maybe Lupe ought to skirt along the S side to get closer to the W end before climbing to the top. That way Loop would gain the upper ridge much closer to the true summit of Peak 6053, which the topo map showed at the far NW end of the mountain.

However, from the wall of white rock, it was clear that this notion was totally impractical. The terrain S of the main ridge was simply too steep and rough. Loop’s only realistic option appeared to be to climb straight to the top of the E end of the main ridge, and take her chances from there. A gully of light-colored rock looked like a possible route up.

Getting close to Peak 6053’s main ridge, Lupe comes to the gash with a wall of white rock on the opposite side. Photo looks NW.

Up on a darker part of the next little ridge connected to the wall of white rock after crossing the gash. Photo looks SW.

The **E end of Peak 6053’s massive main ridge**. Looked like Lupe could get up there via the light colored gully on the R. Photo looks N.

Staying on top of the wall of white rock, Lupe headed NNE toward the promising gully. The wall ended near a snowbank next to a big pool of meltwater. Loop had to down climb and work her way past these minor obstacles before scrambling up the gully.

At the NNE end of the wall of white rock. Lupe had to get past the snow bank and its meltwater before climbing straight up the gully on the L. Photo looks NNE.

At the top of the gully, Lupe found herself in a fairly flat area an acre or two in size. Venturing N brought her to the edge of towering cliffs. For the first time, Lupe could see the gigantic canyon between Peak 6053 and Taiya Peak (6,844 ft.) to the N. She now also had a view to the NW.

Similar view with more help from the telephoto lens.

A tall dark rock outcropping sat at the NE end of the flattish area. Lupe went over and climbed it. Views of the Tormented Valley from here were fantastic! Loop could again see the International Falls trailhead she had started out from way down at the South Klondike Highway.

The **Tormented Valley** from a high point at the E end of Peak 6053. **Summit Lake** is on the R. **Bernard and Shallow lakes** are farther away L of Center. Photo looks NE.

Looking back toward the International Falls trailhead (just about dead Center) along the South Klondike Highway. Photo looks SE.

One view in particular from here was of paramount importance. For the first time, Lupe could see along the length of the N side of Peak 6053’s main ridge. The mountain’s true summit was clear over at the far NW end completely opposite of where the American Dingo was now.

The view was worrying. Felt like Lupe had already been climbing for a long time. Peak 6053’s summit was a little less than 500 feet higher than where she was now, but it still looked far away. Much closer, a big fin of rock jutted skyward. Would Loop be able to get past it? A deep gash might easily be on the other side.

Looking along the length of the N side of Peak 6053’s massive main ridge. The summit still looked far away, and SPHP was concerned about whether Lupe would be able to get beyond the big fin of rock on the L. Photo looks WNW.

Similar view from the NE high point. Photo looks WNW.

No choice, but to head over there and find out. The terrain leading to the fin was rocky and sloped higher, but not difficult. The N end of the fin was close to the gigantic cliffs, and trying to go over the top seemed a poor choice too. However, going around the S end looked quite feasible. The big question was what Lupe would find on the other side?

Another look NW before heading for the fin.

Looking back down at the way Lupe had made it up to the E end of Peak 6053’s main ridge. The snow bank she had passed before coming up the steep gully is seen below on the L. Photo looks SW.

Lupe got quite high on the S end of the big fin. Going this way was a cinch! Nothing to it! Best of all was the view Loopster had once she got to where she could see the area W of the fin. No big gashes or drop offs! In fact, once beyond the fin, it didn’t look like a fin at all from the W.

The Carolina Dog now made rapid progress journeying WNW along the broad main ridge. She crossed a series of gashes, but none presented any real difficulties. Lupe actually lost elevation approaching a final big drainage that sloped down toward the SW. Staying toward the N edge near the cliffs, Lupe had little difficulty getting past it.

WNW of the fin approaching the last big drainage. Lupe stayed to the N (R) near the cliffs to get past it. Photo looks NW.

**Taiya Peak (6,844 ft.)** (R) from the N edge. Photo looks NNE.

Near the last big drainage. Photo looks NW.

Looking NE toward the **Tormented Valley** with help from the telephoto lens. Part of **Summit Lake** on the R. **Bernard and Shallow lakes** on the L.

Beyond the last big drainage, Lupe roamed freely heading NW on a broad slope. A maze of benches and ramps led higher and higher. This climb wasn’t hard at all; no more going down into gullies! Loop was having fun, and SPHP was joyful knowing that the summit couldn’t be much farther. Lupe was actually going to get to the top of Peak 6053!

The terrain finally leveled out in a rough area. What? Oh, no! This wasn’t the top! Quite close by, the highest point on the mountain was clearly visible a short distance off to the N. Definitely higher, though not by much, than where Lupe was now, the true summit of Peak 6053 sat isolated beyond one more good-sized drop. Whether the Carolina Dog could get over there or not wasn’t initially clear, but the situation didn’t look good. Gah! All this way, only to fail!

Some old wooden boards were toward the SW end of the rough area, part of a collapsed wooden tripod. SPHP lifted a couple of rocks off a pile beneath the boards to reveal a survey benchmark dated 1936.

Loop by the wreck of a wooden tripod. Photo looks SW.

The survey benchmark hidden beneath rocks under the tripod.

Lovely. Apparently the surveyor hadn’t thought it possible to get over to the true summit, and had settled for this location instead. Discouraging! After replacing the rocks over the benchmark, Lupe and SPHP went over to the edge of the final drop off to take a better look.

30 feet lower, a snow bank rested in a gash shorter than any others Lupe had come to. Both ends dropped away into fearsome chasms. At first, it didn’t look like there was any safe way to scramble down. Loop had to do it, though, if she was ever going to get to the top of Peak 6053.

Overlooking the final short gash preventing Lupe from getting to the **true summit of Peak 6053** (Center). Photo looks NNW.

There was a way down! Looked like Loop ought to be able to get back up it again during the return, too – critically important, if there ever was going to be a return. A quick, careful scramble, and Lupe was standing on the snow bank!

Success! Safely down on the snow bank in the last gash. Photo looks W.

The snow bank was more like ice than snow. Staying away from the NE edge where the drop was almost vertical, Lupe crossed only a short icy section before completing her long journey to the top of Peak 6053. The true summit was a light gray boulder. The American Dingo hopped up onto it to claim one of her most remarkable peakbagging successes ever.

At the **true summit of Peak 6053**! The main ridge Lupe had come up is visible on the R. Photo looks ESE.

**Taiya Peak** (L of Lupe) from the true summit of **Peak 6053**. Photo looks NE.

Still at the true summit. **Mount Cleveland** is beyond Lupe. **Mount Carmack (6,808 ft.)** is the high point in the distance on the L. Photo looks SSW.

SPHP praised Lupe highly, but the Carolina Dog didn’t seem impressed. Looper willingly participated in a few photos of some of the incredible glacier-clad peaks in Alaska to the W, but after that she just wanted to rest. Using a jacket and a pullover, SPHP made a little bed where she could doze more comfortably on the rocky ground.

Looking W into Alaska. The summit of Peak 6053 is barely inside British Columbia.

Lupe had been politely begging SPHP to stop for hours. Several short breaks had been taken, but this was her first real chance to snooze a bit. Photo looks SW.

Lupe’s 4th day of big climbs in a row, and it had taken 7 hours to get here.

While Lupe rested, SPHP gazed at the unbelievably beautiful remote peaks toward the W.

Looking SW with help from the telephoto lens.

The high point toward the L at the upper end of the glaciers in the foreground may be **Mount Hoffman (6,079 ft.)**. The even higher mountain beyond it may be the **Skagway High Point (8,239 ft.)**. Photo looks W.

The telephoto lens revealed an incredible world of spectacular peaks so inaccessible few have names.

Peak 6053’s summit area was about 40 feet wide E/W and 70 feet long N/S. A similar sized area about 20 feet lower extended farther N. So there was plenty of room to move around. At the N end of the summit area, 35 feet from the boulder Lupe had been on, a less conspicuous rock looked equally high. Might even be a tad bit higher? SPHP went over to check it out, came to no definite conclusion, then ventured down to the lower region to the N where it was possible to look down on a glacier.

As tired as Lupe was, she wasn’t completely out of it. Fearing she was being left behind, Loop came looking for SPHP. Weary or not, the loyal American Dingo stuck closely to SPHP from then on.

On the rock at the N end that was in competition for title of true summit of Peak 6053. **Taiya Peak** beyond Lupe. Photo looks NE.

Still on the N high point. Photo looks S.

Looking down on the glacier. Photo looks N.

Upper end of the glacier and **Taiya Peak** (R). Photo looks NNE.

Looking over the **Taiya River canyon** and the glacier’s toe. Photo looks NW.

Nearly the whole glacier with a bit of help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks N.

Lupe was so lucky! Although the sky had remained quite cloudy all day, conditions at the top of Peak 6053 weren’t bad at all. Cool (low 40’s °F), but calm. Importantly, the cloud deck was high enough to permit clear views of even the highest and most distant peaks. Nothing was hidden. Every now and then, the Carolina Dog stood in glimmers of sunshine.

Getting late. Should be moving on, but Lupe and SPHP lingered in the splendor of Peak 6053. Glory at every turn!

Peak 6053’s narrow SW ridge in the foreground. Photo looks SW.

What is that monstrous peak looming on the far horizon? It must have a name! Photo looks SW with maximum help from the telephoto lens.

**Mount Carmack (6,808 ft.)** (R of Center) looks dramatic through the telephoto lens. Photo looks S.

Way down at the bottom of the **Taiya River canyon**, the famed **Chilkoot Trail** from gold rush days passes from Skagway, Alaska to Chilkoot Pass at the Canadian border, then on to Carcross in the Yukon Territory. Photo looks W.

Another look at **Peak 6053’s SW ridge**. **Mount Cleveland** (L) with **Mount Carmacks** (far L) more distant. Photo looks SSW.

Simply no end of stunning peaks and glaciers!

7 hours to get here. 50 unforgettable minutes gone by up at the summit of Peak 6053! 3 hours until sunset. Sadly, time to go. Past time, actually.

Not far from the summit boulder, Lupe stood perched by the W edge of the mountain overlooking the unseen depths of the Taiya River canyon. Beyond the gaping chasm, a fabulous world of pristine peaks cloaked in glacial ice – ancient, creeping ice still locking in the frigid cold of countless dark winters eons ago.

Fleeting last moments at the top of Peak 6053!

The race against time was on! Back down to the short gash and its icy snow bank. A careful scramble up to the rough area where the survey marker lay hidden beneath rocks and old boards. Down the ramps and benches to the big drainage to the SW.

Now, a calculated, crucial gamble. If it didn’t succeed, Lupe was going to be stuck on Peak 6053 all night. No way on earth could she get down off the mountain before dark going back the way she had come up. Lupe and SPHP turned SW heading down the big drainage. If the American Dingo cliffed out, a very long night was ahead.

Starting down the big drainage near the W end of Peak 6053. Photo looks SSW.

Far, far below, Lupe could see the little lakes of the magical region she had visited beyond the end of the International Falls trail on a beautiful evening more than a year ago. The lakes weren’t sparkling today, but if she could get down close to them, Loopster ought to be able to find the International Falls trail again before dark.

Down steep ramps and gullies, down rough loose rock, down scrambling around rock formations trying to avoid getting cliffed out.

Getting there, but still a long way to go.

Another chute. The far W end of the International Falls area at the edge of the Taiya River canyon is in sight.

At last, success was certain. Loop’s gamble was going to pay off! Once she made it down to where the slope became more gradual, SPHP turned and looked back up. Lupe hadn’t cliffed out, but it sure looked like she should have.

The Carolina Dog was thrilled to be out of all the rock! She wasn’t nearly as tired as she’d let on up on Peak 6053. In fact, Lupe was energized! She raced across the soft tundra far ahead of SPHP joyfully exploring a land of ridges and little streams, glancing back now and then to make sure SPHP was still coming.

Lupe never did get close to most of those once sparkling little lakes again. However, in the distance, she did see the huge boulder on the far W ridge that she had visited a year ago. Instead of going all the way to the lakes, Lupe took a shortcut turning SE as soon as it was practical. The American Dingo roamed a long way. She finally stumbled upon the International Falls trail again, as she passed by a couple of little ponds reflecting the last glowing beauty of the dying day.

Peak 6053 was the final and most difficult of 4 climbs on 4 consecutive days. SPHP’s feet had become sore on the rough terrain even before Lupe had reached the summit. Although the return trip was the easiest possible route back, it was still a long march. Hobbling along, each step became more difficult to bear.

Darkness fell. SPHP sometimes lost the trail. Loopster usually found it again in just a minute or two. The roar of the now invisible waterfalls the trail went by went on and on. At last, it was over. Across Captain William Moore Creek, and up the ropes. The G6 sat waiting alone at the dark trailhead. (10:46 PM, 47°F)

So sore! So weary! Yet, what a day! As it turned out, Lupe had likely taken about the longest, hardest route to the top of Peak 6053 possible. Clearly, the way she had taken back was the fastest, easiest way to go. What an experience it had been though – the long treks higher on all that rough ground, wandering the wild gashes and gullies, then exploring along the whole massive main ridge.

And at the end of it all, the American Dingo had done what she had set out to do – Lupe had once more gazed over the depths of the enormous Taiya River canyon into a world of ice, snow, and jagged peaks, a world in sight, but forever beyond reach, this time seen from the lofty heights of Peak 6053.

On **Peak 6053**, British Columbia, Canada 9-11-18

Directions to the International Falls trailhead: The trailhead is a pullout less than a kilometer inside the Canadian border along the W side of the South Klondike Highway. This pullout is located 7.5 miles (12 km) S of Canadian Customs. Coming from Skagway, the trailhead is the 2nd pullout on the L shortly after crossing the high point of the highway near White Pass. A small lake is visible down in the creek valley W of the highway.

There are no facilities or information at the trailhead other than a sign about avalanche dangers. The trailhead is located between US Customs and Canadian Customs, so it will always be necessary to pass through one or the other on the way back to either Skagway or Carcross. Remember to bring appropriate documentation!

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

International Falls, Canada to Alaska (8-8-17)

Fraser Peak, British Columbia, Canada (8-9-17)

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International Falls, Canada to Alaska (8-8-17)

Day 9 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

Skagway was hopping! Three more cruise ships had arrived in port overnight. Shops and sidewalks were jammed with tourists, saloon girls were conducting tours, and throngs of people were lined up waiting to take the scenic White Pass & Yukon Route railroad.

It was a gorgeous summer morning, but neither Lupe nor SPHP was feeling terribly ambitious yet. Both were a bit drained from Lupe’s successful long climb of AB Mountain (5,036 ft.) yesterday. Loop and SPHP took a stroll along a creek near the train station. The American Dingo could see the start of the long AB Mountain ridge from here.

On a morning stroll, Lupe inspects the White Pass & Yukon Route railroad train. Throngs of tourists were lined up at the train station nearby to take the scenic journey to White Pass and beyond. Photo looks SW.

Yesterday Lupe had spent a very long day climbing **AB Mountain**, the lower end of which is seen here beyond the White Pass & Yukon Route train. Photo looks N.

The morning shot by consumed by various errands. After breakfast, SPHP inquired at the Skagway Sea Terminal about the price to take the Alaska Marine Highway to Haines from here. The one hour trip was $32 for SPHP plus $56 for the G6. Something to think about. There were stops at a couple of shops for souvenirs and postcards, for supplies at the IGA, and trip to a dilapidated gas station for fuel for the G6.

Lupe had the most important errand of all. Yesterday the Carolina Dog had made it all the way to the true summit of AB Mountain (5,036 ft.), a feat which made her a member of the Arctic Sisterhood. Of course, as a new member Loop was anxious to check in at the Arctic Brotherhood hall in Skagway to inform them of her recent exploit. She was excited to let them know how happy and proud she was to join the gang, and find out what duties she might have. She also wanted SPHP to ask about any membership benefits she was entitled to, as well.

Proud new Arctic Sisterhood member, Lupe, reports in at the Arctic Brotherhood hall in Skagway.

The news was shocking! The Arctic Brotherhood had been defunct since 1924! The Arctic Brotherhood hall was now only a tourist information center. They knew nothing about the Arctic Sisterhood, and seemed not to have ever even heard of it.

Poor Lupe was so disillusioned! All that way to the true summit of AB Mountain, and now nothing at all to show for it. Looper’s soft ears drooped. SPHP could see in her eyes how downcast and disappointed she felt. SPHP tried hard to make it all better.

Why, you lucky Dingo! I never dreamed you would have it so good joining the Arctic Sisterhood!

Lucky! Have you completely lost your marbles, SPHP? If I weren’t an American Dingo, I would just cry! The Arctic Brotherhood is dead and gone. It’s ancient history! Even worse, there never was an Arctic Sisterhood. They don’t know a thing about it.

Silly Carolina Dog! Don’t you realize what this means?

Of course, I do. It means no awesome new friends with adventuring spirits to share future arctic exploits with. It means no cool Arctic Sisterhood official membership card. No fancy new Arctic Sisterhood adventure collar. Not even an Arctic Sisterhood top secret pawshake!

Oh, how you go on! What it means is, you are the newly minted sole and founding member of the Arctic Sisterhood! Why, you are President of the whole dang organization, or whatever you want to be called. You did get to the true summit of AB Mountain, you know.

Others must have, too, SPHP. Yet there isn’t an Arctic Sisterhood.

Well, it’s not your fault if no one else bothered to start it up. You can!

What fun is it, if there aren’t any other members?

Tell you what. I’ll be your first member. If you want more than that, you’ll have to think about recruiting some more. Maybe when we’re back home after this Dingo Vacation you could invite Rebecca Riordan? She was super nice to you yesterday on AB Mountain, and even has a grandma named Lupe. You might meet other worthy candidates on this Dingo Vacation, too.

Worthy candidates? You don’t really qualify, SPHP, and Rebecca never made it to the true summit of AB Mountain.

Are you kidding me? You haven’t been President 5 minutes and already no one meets your highfalutin standards. I was right there with you at the true summit, and Rebecca made it up the steepest part of the trail. Sean and Rebecca had to turn around so they didn’t miss their departure time aboard the Explorer of the Seas. It’s not Rebecca’s fault she didn’t have time enough to go all the way to the top.

Just starting out, you’re going to have to show some flexibility. Make us honorary members or something like that. If you want to be so cold as to weed us out after things are going great and you have plenty of members, I suppose you can. But that’s cold, real cold. What can you expect, though, from someone who is President of the Arctic Sisterhood?

Simply talking about the Arctic Sisterhood was having the desired effect. The Carolina Dog was perking up, looking happier already.

Maybe you’re right, SPHP. Except for one thing.

What’s that?

I don’t want to be President.

Oh, why not? I’m not going to be President, and Rebecca doesn’t even know about it yet.

You said I could be called anything I want to as founding member of the Arctic Sisterhood, right?

Yes …. I suppose I did …. so what do you want to be called?

Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood. Kind of has a nice peakbagging ring to it, don’t you think?

It does. Not to mention the humility angle. This is all kind of going straight to that noggin of yours, isn’t it? Why do I get the feeling I’m about to be ruled with an iron paw?

What’s new and different about that?

Oh, yeah. Hmmm. Got me there. Good point! I ought to warn Rebecca.

OK, now that that’s settled, what do you think the Arctic Sisterhood should do first, SPHP? Any suggestions?

Yes indeed. I think your first official act as Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood should be to go on another adventure.

Oh, I don’t know, SPHP. I’m sort of tired after AB Mountain yesterday. Besides, the day is half shot already. Wasn’t this going to be a rest day?

Nope, and there’s a perfect place to go to nearby, Loop, err, I mean Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood. Say, do you mind if I just call you Lupe most of the time except during official membership meetings, special occasions, and such? Your new title is kind of a mouthful.

This is a special occasion! A very special one! It’s the first day of the new Arctic Sisterhood! However, since it’s just you and me, SPHP, Lupe is fine for now as long as you show proper decorum when others are present.

Gee, thanks. I’ll try to remember that. Anyway, as I was saying, there is a great adventure that’s not too hard, and not too far away. Remember your friend Australian Adventurer Luke Hall who you met up on Gunsight Mountain last year? He suggested this adventure. It’s called International Falls.

There’s a trail along a beautiful stream with a lovely series of cascades and waterfalls. Only 1,000 feet of elevation gain to where the trail fades away, but it’s possible to wander farther to an overlook with some great glacier-clad mountain views. None of it is really difficult except for a short steep stretch at the very start. The adventure starts in Canada, but the trail soon crosses the US border into Alaska. What do you say?

You’re absolutely right, SPHP! We should do some kind of memorable outdoor adventure on the Arctic Sisterhood’s first day. International Falls sounds gorgeous and not too strenuous. I like it. If there’s still time, let’s do it!

Lupe and SPHP were soon on the way out of Skagway on the South Klondike Highway (No. 98). Shortly after reaching the end of the steep, long climb past US Customs to the high point where the highway reaches the Tormented Valley W of White Pass, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood crossed the Canadian border gracing British Columbia with her presence.

SPHP parked the G6 at the second, lower big pullout on the W (L) side of the highway. (3:38 PM, 64°F) Lupe was only a fraction of a kilometer into British Columbia. Canadian Customs was still 7.5 miles (12 km) farther N. From the edge of an embankment beside the pullout, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood peered more than 100 feet down into a valley to the W.

Two small lakes were in the valley, connected by a stream. The larger, upstream lake was to the N. Across the valley, another stream flowed down a long, rocky slope of stunted dark green conifers. This stream cascaded down a series of waterfalls to a light green alluvial fan where it joined forces with the stream from the larger lake to the N. Captain William Moore Creek, shown on the map as the name of the combined streams, flowed S to the smaller lake.

This whole area looked heavily glaciated, having a scraped down to bedrock appearance typical of the Tormented Valley. The upper spires of high sharp peaks were seen some distance to the SW.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood arrives in British Columbia for her first look at the International Falls area. She’s at the higher pullout on the W side of the South Klondike Highway here. The actual trailhead was one pullout slightly farther N, a bit closer to the lake seen below. Photo looks NW.

The International Falls trail follows the R (N) side of the stream seen coming down the long slope across the valley. It goes all the way up well beyond the apparent saddle at Center. Photo looks W.

Part of the smallest lake, little more than a pond, is in view on the L. High sharp peaks are in the distance. Photo looks SW.

The start of the International Falls trail is in the foreground. It can also be seen on the alluvial fan below. Photo looks W.

The hardest part of the whole International Falls trail was just getting down from the highway to the creek in the valley below the trailhead safely. Starting out, the trail was only moderately steep, and Lupe could have followed several different worn paths. They all led to a single stupidly steep eroded route going down the lower part of the embankment.

Looking down from the lip of the really steep part. Yeah, the trail heads right on down over the edge into the bushes, which SPHP made extensive use of as hand holds. Photo looks W.

Near the bottom, a rope fastened somewhere above was strung down the worst part of the trail. Without it, SPHP’s International Falls adventure might have been over already with a dramatic, not too enjoyable, gravity-assisted splat. The rope would have been even better, if it had been another 10 or 15 feet longer, but SPHP did manage to arrive in one piece at the bottom of the embankment.

Perhaps the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood sprouted wings and flew down when SPHP wasn’t looking. However she did it, she was standing next to Captain William Moore Creek when SPHP turned around to face the stream.

The larger lake toward the N from partway down the embankment below the trailhead. Photo looks NW.

The rope assisted portion of the trail from the bottom of the embankment. It’s steeper than it looks!

Using her super powers as Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, Lupe magically appears safely down next to Captain William Moore Creek. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe was somewhat intimidated by the width of Captain William Moore Creek, but the beautiful stream was actually quite shallow this time of year. SPHP crossed first, to show Looper how easy it was. Even the deepest part was only knee deep on SPHP. Of course, knee deep is swimming depth for the Carolina Dog. Nevertheless, Lupe was encouraged by SPHP’s success and made her way across.

Loop pauses at an island partway across Captain William Moore Creek. The steep trail down the lower part of the embankment is seen on the L. Getting down that embankment is the hardest part of the whole International Falls trail. Once across the stream, everything else is easy. Photo looks ESE.

Fording the stream. Only a few inches deep here!

Having made it across Captain William Moore Creek, Lupe and SPHP were in for a gorgeous afternoon and evening of easy hiking amid dazzlingly spectacular scenery. The hardest part was over already! Lupe led the way along the American Falls trail across the the alluvial fan, and started up the long, gentle slope to the W.

Above the alluvial fan, the trail became braided in bushy areas interspersed with stands of stunted conifers. Lupe stuck to the paths farthest S, which were closest to the stream coming down from the W. She soon reached the first notable cascade along the American Falls trail.

Looper near the first notable cascade along the International Falls trail. **Feather Peak (5,889 ft.)** (1,795 m) is the pointy peak in the distance at Center. The rounded hill on the R is **High Point 4,731** (1,442 m). Photo looks SW.

In addition to the superb scenery, the continual soothing roar of the cascading stream was a highlight of the International Falls trail. Photo looks SW.

The trail wasn’t always right by the stream. Here it passes through a bushy sub-alpine area bordered by stunted conifers. **High Point 4731** (1,442 m) is on the L. Photo looks WSW.

Of course, the higher Lupe went, the better the views got. The American Dingo came to many lovely waterfalls, cascades and rapids.

One of many beautiful waterfalls along the International Falls trail.

Somewhere along the way, 0.5 mile more or less from the highway, Lupe left British Columbia crossing the US border into Alaska. No sign existed to indicate exactly where the border was, but it was still rather cool to cross from one country to another traveling the International Falls trail.

By the time Lupe made it this far, she had crossed the US border from British Columbia into Alaska. No sign was seen indicating the actual location of the border. Photo looks SW.

Although the International Falls trail starts in Canada, the great majority of the trail is in Alaska. Lupe still had a long way to go from here.

The stream eventually split into 3 tributaries. The trail turned more to the NW following the largest tributary. Lupe was now climbing some of the steepest terrain of the whole journey, but it wasn’t bad at all. The rate of climb was still moderate. Loopster was soon approaching the tallest waterfall along the whole trail.

Approaching the tallest waterfall along the International Falls trail. Photo looks NW.

*You were right, SPHP! The International Falls trail is so beautiful! This is a great first adventure for the Arctic Sisterhood. So easy, too!*

This was the last big waterfall along the International Falls trail. Photo looks WNW.

Since the creek had divided lower down, the tallest waterfall did not have quite as much flow as other falls Lupe had already come to, but it plunged over a wall of rock in such lovely fashion Loop wanted SPHP to take a couple pictures of her here for the Arctic Sisterhood archives.

A nice shot for Lupe’s Arctic Sisterhood archives.

Above the tallest waterfall, Lupe paused to look back at the view to the E to see how much progress she’d made. She could see the South Klondike Highway where she’d started out from, and a line of mountains beyond the rocky, rugged terrain of the Tormented Valley.

Looking ESE from above the tallest waterfall. The South Klondike Highway is in view. This whole area up to the base of the mountains is part of the Tormented Valley.

There were still more waterfalls, cascades and rapids above the tallest waterfall, but the terrain was beginning to change. The trail was still gaining elevation steadily, but more slowly than before. The waterfalls, though still beautiful, were shrinking in size.

There were still more waterfalls, cascades and rapids above the tallest waterfall. Lupe takes a little break at a particularly nice spot. Photo looks W.

As Lupe continued on, the terrain was gradually leveling out. Here the creek spreads out beautifully over an area of flat rocks. Photo looks W.

Loop on her first adventure as the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood.

Look at that big flat rock beyond Looper! There were countless gorgeous spots like that to take a break or have a picnic. Photo looks NW.

Eventually the land to the W was rising so gradually that Lupe reached the end of the waterfall territory. The International Falls trail still went on for a while, though. This was pretty territory, too, just somewhat different from what came before. Lupe and SPHP were having such a good time that Loop kept right on going.

Instead of waterfalls, Lupe now came to a series of ponds and little lakes connected by the creek. Countless small tributaries babbled down from the hillsides. Loop continued onward staying N of the ponds and lakes. She sometimes had to cross some of the side streams. None of them were very large.

Above the waterfall territory, Lupe was in near treeless alpine. Somewhere up on that enormous hill is the Canadian border. Photo looks NNW

Looper along the N side of one of the first ponds she came to. Photo looks S.

Lupe looking tiny in the vast alpine world above all the waterfalls. Photo looks W.

Maybe it was just the way the evening sunlight was reflecting off all the little lakes, ponds and streams, but this vast alpine tundra beyond the waterfalls seemed even more beautiful. SPHP wished Lupe had more time left in the day, there were so many places one might explore!

This vast alpine tundra with all its sparkling little lakes, ponds and streams was just stunningly beautiful! Lupe and SPHP were going to keep exploring as long as the evening light held out.

*International Falls is a Dingo Paradise, SPHP!*

Lupe stuck to the N (R) as she continued upstream heading for the saddle ahead.

Some of the small lakes were simply drop dead gorgeous!

Wow! So pretty! Continuing on into the lake country was the right decision. Photo looks SW.

Another look with help from the telephoto lens.

The International Falls trail was gradually fading away. Eventually it would be lost for good. That didn’t really matter. The terrain was so open, it was easy to see where to go. Lupe kept heading NW toward a saddle that seemed to always retreat a little higher and farther away every time it appeared she ought to be getting close.

The International Falls trail is faint, but still seen here on the right. Before long it would disappear entirely. Didn’t matter, Lupe kept going. Photo looks WSW.

Now at the shallow NW end of the same little lake. Photo looks S.

Looking back to the SE. The trail can still be seen on the L.

As the Carolina Dog journeyed farther into the lake country, new glories started to appear. Lupe began getting much improved views of some of the more distant higher mountains. She could see Feather Peak (5,889 ft.) (1,795 m) to the S. The upper snow and glacier clad portions of Mount Hoffman (6,079 ft.) (1,853 m) appeared ahead to the NW.

As Lupe continued her explorations NW, she began to get better views of some of the higher peaks of the region. **Feather Peak** is the pyramid in the distance near Center. Photo looks SSW.

**Feather Peak** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSW.

The upper snow and glacier clad portions of **Mount Hoffman** (L) were coming into view. Photo looks NW.

Soon Looper could see Mount Cleveland (6,362 ft.), too.

**Feather Peak** (L) and **Mount Cleveland** (R) in the distance. Photo looks SSW.

There wasn’t time to do it today, but if Loop ever returns to International Falls, she might try to climb **High Point 4803** (1,464 m) (Center) NW of Feather Peak on the **topo map**. Doesn’t look hard and the views would be stupendous! Photo looks SW.

**Mount Cleveland** (L) and **High Point 4,803** (1,464 m) (R). Photo looks SW.

Lupe came to many false “summits” of the saddle she was trying to reach. Somewhat higher ground always appeared farther ahead. The American Dingo entered more rugged territory traveling over a series of low, rocky ridges. These ridges and the gaps between them were nearly all oriented SW/NE much like the gashes Lupe had come to only yesterday up on the AB Mountain ridge.

This region of low ridges was also where Lupe came to the largest of the small lakes. Every ridge Lupe crossed revealed new, beautiful territory beyond it. This sort of alpine high country is Lupe’s favorite of all. She sniffed and explored everywhere, pausing frequently to gaze out over the paradise ahead from each succeeding ridge.

Lupe reaches the region of larger lakes scattered between the low rocky ridges. **Mount Hoffman** is ahead in the distance on the R. Photo looks NW.

**High Point 4803** (L) and **Mount Hoffman** (R edge). Photo looks W.

**Feather Peak** (L) and **Mount Cleveland** (R) looking over one of the larger lakes from one of the low ridges. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe loves high alpine terrain like this. And why not? Such super fun to explore! SPHP was having a blast, too! **Feather Peak** (L), **Mount Cleveland** (Center), and **High Point 4803** (1,464 m) (R). Photo looks SSW.

Another look from another ridge overlooking another scenic lake. **Feather Peak** (L) and **Mount Cleveland** (R). Photo looks S.

Part of the same lake. **Mount Cleveland** (L) and **High Point 4803** (1,464 m) (Center). Photo looks SW.

A massive mountain to the N blocked any further views in that direction. It didn’t look hard to climb, though Lupe didn’t have time to do it today. The summit, which was not in view, was across the border a short distance into Canada. The topo map showed the summit of this mountain, Peak 6053 (1,845 m), overlooking a vast snowfield or glacier.

None of all that could be seen from down here, but the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood agreed Peak 6053 (1,845 m) should be kept in mind for future Arctic Sisterhood expeditions.

This massive mountain is the S slope of **Peak 6053 (1,845 m)**. The summit is not in view. This would be another fantastic non-technical, but far more ambitious peak than **High Point 4803** to climb in the International Falls area. The topo map shows that the summit overlooks a vast snowfield to the N. Might be super awesome! Photo looks N.

Lupe crosses a snowbank S of **Peak 6053** (1,845 m). Photo looks NNW.

Loopster went on and on, crossing more rocky ridges, coming to more sparkling lakes and ponds, leaping over more trickling streams. Finally, the end was in sight. A large boulder sat atop the last ridge, it was the high point of the saddle she had been heading toward all this time.

Loopster went on and on, passing more beautiful lakes and ponds, crossing trickling streams, melting snow banks, going over one rocky ridge after another. Photo looks S.

This super clear pond was a different color from all the rest and so amazingly beautiful! Photo looks NW.

At last, a lone boulder (Center) could be spied in the distance atop the final ridge. This was the high point of the saddle Lupe had been looking for all this time. Photo looks NW.

Lupe and SPHP pressed on to that boulder on the final ridge. Beyond it, the ground sloped down ever more steeply toward a gigantic canyon. At the bottom of this canyon was the famed Chilkoot Trail of Klondike gold rush days, which follows the Taiya River here on the way from Dyea near Skagway to Bennett Lake.

None of the lower regions of the canyon could be seen from the boulder, so Lupe went another 100 yards farther down the slope. It became clear she would have to lose more elevation than it seemed to be worth to really be able to see way down anywhere close to the bottom. SPHP called a halt. This was good enough.

The scenic prize the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood had come to claim was stretched out before her beyond the immense canyon – a wondrous pristine white and shadow blue world of snow, ice and wild jagged mountains.

On the way to the boulder on the final ridge. Photo looks WSW.

100 yards beyond the boulder on the final ridge, SPHP called a halt here. At the unseen bottom of the huge canyon just ahead, the Chilkoot Trail, famous since the old Klondike gold rush days, follows the Taiya River. **Mount Hoffman (6,079 ft.)** is the high point R of Center. Photo looks WNW.

Beyond the canyon was a wild, remote world of snow white glaciers, and jagged shadow blue mountains. Photo looks SW.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood and SPHP spent 20 minutes together gazing upon the wondrous scene while the sun sank slowly toward the icy solitude of the Alaskan wilderness.

The **Saussure Glacier** (R) with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks WNW.

**Mount Hoffman (6,079 ft.)** (L) with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NW.

With perhaps 2 hours to go before sundown, Lupe returned to the big boulder on the ridge. She climbed up on this landmark for a last look around.

Loop on the big boulder on the final ridge. In a way, this might be considered the far W end of the International Falls trail, although the trail itself had disappeared long before Lupe got this far. **Feather Peak (5,889 ft.)** at Center. Photo looks SSE.

The final glorious moment on the boulder on the last ridge W before starting back.

On the return trip there was need for some speed. Sunset was only a couple of hours away. Crossing all the low ridges near the beautiful lakes had been a gorgeous route, but this time Lupe and SPHP stayed farther N. Lupe actually gained elevation, and held it for quite a distance. For more than a mile, she could look back and still see the big boulder she’d been on at the last ridge W.

The return trip was pure fun! It was all wonderful and exquisitely beautiful. Lupe ran and explored and played wild Alaskan Dingo, while SPHP marched on.

Starting back. Lupe and SPHP stayed higher and farther N for the first part of the return trip, avoiding some of the ups and downs of the maze of low ridges down by the lakes. **High Point 4803** at Center. **Mount Cleveland (6,362 ft.)** in the distance on the L. Photo looks SSW.

You know, SPHP, I’ve been looking at that **Feather Peak** for hours now. Maybe we could even climb that one sometime? Put that in the notes for the Arctic Sisterhood’s future reference too, please. Photo looks SSW.

Loop was back on the International Falls trail long before reaching the waterfalls. She got to see all the waterfalls one more time, but they were now in the shadow of the big slope she was coming down from the W.

The last rays of sunlight were disappearing from the mountain peaks when Lupe reached the G6. The Arctic Sisterhood’s first ever expedition had been a grand success! At first Lupe was so pleased, she forgot how long it had been since she’d had much to eat. She finally did remember, though, and Dingoed down an entire can of Alpo in nothing flat.

The Most Weary Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood then curled up on her pile of pillows and blankets. SPHP pulled her blankie over her. Loop went out like a light, beginning the process of gathering strength for the Arctic Sisterhood’s next big adventure. Which was a good thing, for that next big adventure was just around the corner.

Happy times in the Alaskan wilderness at the end of the International Falls trail. 8-8-17

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