Day 37 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
8:54 AM, 47°F at the lower part of a two-tier pullout along the Dempster Highway SE of Surfbird Mountain – The promise of those hopeful pink glowing clouds late yesterday evening had come to naught. After a fitful night’s sleep, Lupe woke to fog and light mist. Not what SPHP had been hoping for, but the Carolina Dog seemed happy enough, despite her sore right rear paw. She eagerly explored the bushes, sometimes hopping about on 3 paws.
After her morning romp, and a leisurely breakfast of chili, English muffins, and cheese, the American Dingo was ready for the day’s main event. Though the light mist had ended, the sky remained overcast. Fog cloaked the mountaintops. Conditions weren’t really very promising. Nevertheless, Lupe and SPHP left the two tier pullout, heading S on the Dempster Highway in the G6. (10:49 AM, 49°F)
When the highway crossed the East Blackstone River, Lupe wanted to stop briefly to check it out. The river was lovely, and though not far from its headwaters, already a good-sized stream.
Loop made another stop in the North Fork Pass area. The lower slopes of Goldensides Mountain(6,000 ft.), her peakbagging objective for the day, were in view. Discouragingly, clouds hid the summit.
(Note: To see topo maps after clicking on any mountain link in this post, switch from CalTopo to MyTopo at upper L on the Google dynamic map.)
If the weather stayed like this, there wouldn’t be much point in climbing Goldensides, but maybe the sky would clear up later on? At the very least, Looper could take the 1.5 km trail to a couple of viewpoints S of Goldensides Mountain. She would still be below the cloud cover, and ought to be able to see something.
Lupe and SPHP drove S looking for the turn to the Goldensides trailhead. A side road appeared near kilometer 74. That had to be it! The side road went E up a hillside, arriving at a small parking area next to a fenced microwave tower roughly a kilometer from the highway. A sign confirmed that Lupe was at the right place. (12:00 PM, 46°F)
The Goldensides trail was in good shape and easy to follow. From the very start, Lupe was surrounded by beautiful fall foliage. Before long, Looper was getting views down the North Klondike River valley. She could see the Tombstone Interpretive Centre down there.
At first, the trail gained elevation slowly. As Looper continued onward, she began climbing more steeply, but still at only a moderate pace.
Lupe was well along the trail, when she came to a fork. A side trail to the R led to a nearby rocky hill. This hill is the first main viewpoint along the Goldensides trail. Naturally, Loop went to the top of the little hill to check it out.
Loopster could see the main Goldensides trail heading E toward another hill not too far away. The official trail ends at the second hill, which is the final viewpoint. When SPHP was done taking in the scenes from this first hill, Lupe continued on to the last one. Coming down off the first viewpoint, she stopped next to an interesting column of rock.
Lupe reached the end of the Goldensides trail less than an hour after leaving the trailhead. From here, she could see more territory farther up a valley to the E.
At the end of the Goldensides trail, Looper had gained nearly 700 feet of elevation. The summit of Goldensides was another 1200 feet higher. To get there, the Carolina Dog would have to scramble up the steep S face of the mountain.
The S face didn’t look too bad. Lupe could probably do that! While the sky remained completely overcast, the good news was that the clouds had lifted somewhat. The top of Goldensides was no longer in fog. May as well go for it!
The Carolina Dog left the end of the Goldensides trail heading straight for the S face of the mountain. As the slope became steeper, she began climbing toward the NW. The idea was to get up on a long SW ridge that looked a bit easier than a direct assault on the S face.
Lupe climbed and climbed. The mountain got steeper and steeper. At first there were helpful lanes of vegetation to follow between the rocks. Higher up, it was nothing but rock.
Loop is a great scrambler. She had no trouble at all. She had plenty of time to look around at the views as SPHP struggled to carefully pick a way up the mountain behind her. Most of the dark rocks were stable, and smallish to medium sized.
The climb was steep, but not scary. Lupe finally did reach the SW ridge she had been aiming for. She was already very high on the mountain.
Peering over the ridgeline, Loop made several discoveries. First, the other side of the ridge was even steeper. She would be best off staying right on the ridgeline, or on this SE side of it. Second, she could now see a long way N beyond North Fork Pass to the East Blackstone River valley.
Third, and most importantly, the summit of Goldensides Mountain was still considerably farther away than expected. Fortunately, it looked like getting there would be easy, if Loopster could reach a smoother ridge seen NNE of her present position. It wasn’t possible yet to see how hard that might be.
Climbing NE along the ridgeline, Lupe found a path. Others had been here before! That was reassuring. Loop must be on the right track. It was starting to look like getting over to the smoother ridge to the NNE wasn’t going to be a problem.
The American Dingo hadn’t traveled far along the SW ridge when SPHP realized she was rapidly approaching a massive rock formation on the ridgeline ahead. How was Loop going to get beyond that? Suddenly, what had seemed easy was now worrisome. The informal path Loop was following led straight toward the rocks.
The path went right on up to a high point next to the rock formation. Looking over the other side, there was no path, only a rock strewn slope dropping steeply away. To the SE (R) was a tall, straight, solid wall of rock. Was this the right way?
This had to be it, didn’t it? If Loop could get down from here to the rocks at the base of this wall, she could easily scramble back up the other side to the easy terrain leading toward the summit. She only had to safely descend 25 or 30 feet. Looked like it ought to be possible, if none of the drops were too high.
Loopster and SPHP started down. Eh, not too bad. At one particularly high drop, SPHP had to ease down first, then help Loop get down, too. That was it. Cake! Well, almost. Anyway, Lupe had made it over this rocky little pass. Henceforth known as Dingo Pass, of course!
Once safely over Dingo Pass, Loop had to scramble across a boulder field at the base of the wall of rock. No big deal. She soon got beyond the boulders, and arrived on a smooth gravel hillside.
The Carolina Dog had reached the lower end of the smooth ridge she had seen upon reaching the SW ridgeline. Ought to be easy going from here! In fact, Lupe could see some sort of tower or antenna ahead. Maybe that was the summit? If so, she had it made. Easy, squeezy all the way!
Lupe made for the tower. Before she even got close, it became apparent the tower or antenna or whatever it was, was not at the summit. A higher hill came into view farther NNE. Two knobs of rock could be seen up there, perched along the W edge. Maybe that was the summit? Before heading over there, Lupe went to the antenna first.
It doesn’t take an American Dingo long to inspect a little antenna and a solar array, not when there is a lofty summit to get to nearby! Loopster sniffed around the antenna for a minute or two, then it was off to the higher hill. It wasn’t as far away as it looked. As Lupe approached the top, she could see that the two knobs of rock were actually large cairns.
Yes, this was it! The highest natural rocks were at the N end of the hill. Lupe stood at the true summit of Goldensides(6,000 ft.)! Grand views all around. Too bad clouds hid all the higher peaks, but at least the top of Goldensides wasn’t lost in them. Looper could see a lot, despite the overcast sky.
The top of Goldensides Mountain featured not one, but three cairns. The largest was closest to the true summit. Not content with merely standing on the highest natural point on the mountain, Lupe clambered up on the biggest cairn, too.
Loop visited the two smaller cairns, too.
For a while, Lupe stayed busy exploring the summit area. Eventually, though, she decided to take a break down by the second largest cairn.
While Looper relaxed, SPHP admired the views in all directions.
When the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was done resting up, she was ready to get back into the picture. The first thing she did was to return to the true summit.
After nearly an hour up at the Goldensides summit, Lupe started down again. She would have to go back the same way she came up.
The return trip was uneventful and, of course, stunningly beautiful. The cloud cover had lifted quite a bit over the past few hours. SPHP wished the sun would break through, if only for a little while, but it never did. After a time consuming descent of the S face waiting for slowpoke SPHP, Lupe made it back down to the Goldensides trail. The rest was easy.
Once Lupe got back to the trailhead (5:38 PM, 54°F), SPHP drove her back around to the NW side of Goldensides again. This time Looper had a clear view of the mountain.
Beautiful Goldensides was the last mountain Lupe would climb in the Yukon in 2017. Soon the American Dingo would have to start for home. Yet one more big adventure awaited her in Tombstone Territorial Park. Tomorrow she would take the Grizzly Lake trail to see Mount Monolith(7,000 ft.).
Day 36 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
9:00 AM, 54°F, at a pullout near Kilometer 20 of the Dempster Highway – Ugh! So late! Lupe was wide awake, staring out of the G6. She probably had been for a long time. 54°F! No wonder SPHP had slept so well. Comfortably warm for once, instead of the usual Yukon chill. Lupe eagerly dashed out of the G6 as soon as she got the chance, disappearing into the woods nearby.
Cheese and English muffins for breakfast. Loop returned for that. Her right rear paw seemed OK now. Yesterday evening she had been hopping around on 3 legs shortly after getting here. A raw spot in between her pads seemed to be the problem. She must have gotten cut stepping on something sharp. Maybe the antibiotic ointment SPHP applied had actually helped?
As soon as breakfast was over, Lupe and SPHP hit the road traveling N on the Dempster Highway. Loop spotted the Tombstone Territorial Park sign near kilometer 50. A quick photo stop was clearly in order.
The Dempster Highway goes right through Tombstone Territorial Park. Lupe had never been here before. As she continued N into the park, the scenery was rapidly becoming more and more stunning. Wow, this looked promising! Only September 4th, but fall colors were already evident. Even though the sky was overcast, everything was so beautiful!
The Dempster Highway wound along the W side of the North Klondike River valley. Around each bend were more magnificent sights.
The highway was gaining elevation. Tree line isn’t very high in Tombstone Territorial Park. Forests were soon confined only to valleys and lower mountain slopes. Higher up, bright yellows, oranges, and reds of the tundra were splashed across the dark gray exposed rock of the steep mountain slopes. The overall effect gave the Oligvie Mountains a most striking and distinctive appearance.
As Lupe passed the Tombstone Interpretive Centre at kilometer 71.5, the Dempster Highway began climbing much more aggressively. The sense that the Carolina Dog was approaching something truly fabulous just ahead was strong.
The highway angled NW along a steep slope. The North Klondike River, which was now W of the highway, could be seen curving away toward a side valley. Such a glorious view! Had to stop for this!
SPHP had stopped a little too soon to get the best view of the long valley the North Klondike River originates from. Lupe and SPHP hopped back in the G6, went a bit farther and higher, and stopped again. Incredible! Lupe could now see much more. The Carolina Dog could even see the iconic symbol of Tombstone Provincial Park. At the far end of the long valley stood Tombstone Mountain(7,192 ft.)!
(Note: To see topo maps after clicking on any mountain link in this post, switch from CalTopo to MyTopo at upper L on the Google dynamic map.)
Though distant Tombstone Mountain grabbed and held the attention, other beautiful mountains were much closer by.
As beautiful as these scenes were, Lupe had farther to go. When SPHP was finally able to turn away from the glorious sights right here, it was back into the G6. The Dempster Highway turned NE continuing higher, then quickly began to level out. The highway curved gradually back to the NNW, and went over a broad level saddle.
Loopster had reached North Fork Pass, the high point of the Dempster Highway in Tombstone Territorial Park. N of the pass, Lupe entered a wide valley which was part of the East Blackstone River drainage. The highway descended slowly along the E side of this valley.
The Oligvie Mountains weren’t quite as rugged here as back near the viewpoint where Lupe had just seen Tombstone Mountain. Even so, this area had an impressively stark aspect to it. Scarcely a tree was in sight. The Dempster Highway passed a kilometer E of a small lake. Loop and SPHP left the G6 here, walking a bit back up the highway experiencing an incredible sense of remoteness.
Lupe and SPHP continued N from North Fork Pass. Somewhere, still 15 or 20 km ahead, was Lupe’s peakbagging objective for the day, Surfbird Mountain(5,300 ft.). The highway crossed over to the W side of the East Blackstone River. SPHP started watching for a microwave tower to the W, which doubles as the trailhead for Surfbird Mountain.
The highway again passed E of a small lake. The road was much closer to this second lake. Although the microwave tower hadn’t appeared yet, SPHP stopped so Lupe could sniff around.
The turn W (L) on the side road leading to the microwave tower was supposed to be near kilometer 98.5, but SPHP had written down the wrong number. A microwave tower did come into view shortly after Lupe left the second small lake, however. That had to be it, so SPHP made the turn and drove a couple km up the side road to the tower.
Not a soul was around, which was a good thing, since there wasn’t a lot of extra space to park here where the G6 wouldn’t block access to the tower in the event a service vehicle happened along. There was plenty of room for just the G6, though.
12:58 PM, 50°F at the microwave tower near km 98.5 of the Dempster Highway – The overcast sky was a bit discouraging, but the weather didn’t seem threatening at the moment. Having just had a bite to eat, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was ready to set off for Surfbird Mountain(5,300 ft.). Surfbird was supposed to be a really easy climb, so if the weather would hold out, Looper should get there.
Lines of tall bushes coming down the ridge W of the microwave tower marked drainages where there might be really wet ground, or even streams. No sense getting wet feet right off, if it could be avoided. To avoid these drainages, Lupe and SPHP set off going W straight up the slope.
The tundra was spongy and damp everywhere. For SPHP’s sake, Lupe did manage to avoid the wettest areas. She went all the way up to the top of the ridge W of the microwave tower. The ridge was very broad. Lupe now had a clear view of Surfbird Mountain’s summit. So easy! This climb was going to be nothing more than a stroll up a big hill. Avoiding drainages and boggy areas was all there was to it.
Instead of going directly toward the summit, Looper headed S toward a closer high point.
A steady climb up the long slope brought Lupe to a big flat area on top of the next ridge. Total elevation gain to the summit of Surfbird Mountain is about 1,500 feet from the microwave tower. Lupe had already gained close to 1,300 feet, so most of the work was done. The ground was nice and dry up here. Looper was perfectly happy curling up and relaxing, while SPHP admired the already magnificent views.
When SPHP was ready to move on, Lupe led the way heading SW from the flat area. She lost elevation going down a dip in the broad ridge, but not any great amount. The summit of Surfbird Mountain(5,300 ft.) was in view beyond the dip. Lupe headed for a closer high point first.
Most of Surfbird Mountain(5,300 ft.) is a wide ridge. Toward the W end, the absolute summit is a narrow hill superimposed upon the main ridge. That hill wasn’t far away at all now. Lupe left the high point heading W right to it. At the top of the hill, she found a short, stony ridgeline running E/W.
Even though Surfbird Mountain was an easy climb, the views were tremendous!
Off to the W, another hill even higher than Surfbird Mountain was only a mile or so away. Lupe might easily have gone over there, but didn’t for 2 reasons.
First of all, the weather was questionable. The sky had been completely overcast all day. The situation wasn’t improving, either. Toward the S horizon, it now looked like rain or fog. A chilly S wind was sweeping over Surfbird Mountain, potentially driving the precipitation this way. SPHP didn’t relish the notion of getting drenched at some point.
Secondly, Lupe’s right rear paw was bothering her. She was occasionally hopping on 3 legs again. Making Looper go any farther on a sore paw wasn’t a kind thing to ask her to do. That just wouldn’t be right.
No worries. Surfbird Mountain was a great place to be! Might as well enjoy the awesome scenes from right here. Instead of pushing on, Lupe and SPHP spent an entire hour at Surfbird’s summit. Most of this time was spent N of and below the rocky crest to avoid the wind.
The whole sky was a sullen gray. The world stretched away to the N all brown and drab. It felt, it looked, like late November back home. What an amazing place, though! Lonely and quiet, the vast emptiness of the hills, ridges, valleys, and peaks of the Yukon’s Oligvie Range extended as far as the American Dingo could see.
Lupe sat huddled partially inside SPHP’s jacket. Watching, waiting. Nothing moved. The only sound, the swirling breeze. Sublime.
SPHP wanted to keep an eye on the weather. Every now and then, Lupe braved the cold wind, climbing the few feet necessary to get back on top of the mountain. The situation to the S never seemed to change much. Looper could linger a while longer.
Lupe’s incredible, wonderful hour at the top of Surfbird Mountain came and went. The Carolina Dog left her hiding spot, returning once more to the summit.
On the way back, Lupe varied her route somewhat. When she reached the big flat area on the second ridge, she went all the way out to its far E end. Here she had a great view of the East Blackstone River valley, and a prominent thumb of rock nearby to the N.
The return trip was a blast! So easy, with spectacular views the entire way! The weather never did deteriorate. Lupe didn’t get rained on. She had a great time roaming the gorgeous tundra. To avoid wet, tussocky areas, the Carolina Dog did have to circle back around to the W again somewhat before turning N.
Lupe returned to the G6 coming down off that same first W ridge she’d climbed on the way up. (6:32 PM, 50°F) She’d had such a grand time roaming, running, and sniffing on the way back, that she’d overdone it. Loop was frequently hopping along on 3 paws now. Worrisome. SPHP slathered more antibiotic cream on the raw area between her pads.
Surfbird Mountain was as far N as Lupe was going in Tombstone Park. Her experience today was so phenomenal, and the Oligvie Mountains had made such an impression, that the Carolina Dog was going to get to stick around a while longer. Another great adventure tomorrow! That paw better heal up!
SPHP drove back to the Dempster Highway and turned S. Before long, a pullout appeared on the E side of the road. It proved to be a two-tier pullout. No one at either place. The lower area was nice and secluded – big, flat, and surrounded by tall bushes. A stream ran along the SE side, flowing into a hidden pond. The pond was only a foot deep. Air bubbles streamed up from the bottom all over the place.
Lupe loved this spot! She enthusiastically explored the forest of bushes along the stream and pond. This would do for sure!
By late evening, the sky showed hopeful signs. Pink clouds glowed off to the NW over by Surfbird Mountain. Oh, yeah! Blue skies would really bring out the spectacular fall colors. Loop and SPHP crashed for the night thinking positive thoughts for the morrow. (9:15 PM, 50°F)
Days 34 & 35 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
9-2-17, 9:30 AM – Overslept! Good grief. For once it hadn’t rained at all overnight. Most of the morning sky was blue. Maybe the weather really was improving? Easy to get fooled in Alaska, though. SPHP was far from certain it wouldn’t rain later in the day. Should Lupe stick around Palmer, or not? SPHP pondered the question while buying supplies at the new Fred Meyer store.
11:02 AM, 50°F – No, Lupe wasn’t going to stay. The day was already looking hazier than “early” on. The Carolina Dog was going to leave Palmer seeking more reliable skies elsewhere. September was here. Maybe she would find fairer weather in the Yukon? Her time in glorious Alaska was about up. Sad, but true. Lupe stared out the window of the G6, as SPHP drove out of Palmer on Glen Highway No. 1.
The day was spent traveling. SPHP made a number of stops along the way so Loop could stretch her legs, and spend a few minutes appreciating the beauty of Alaska.
After fueling the G6 in Tok (5:43 PM, 58°F), SPHP drove ESE on the Alaska Highway. A dozen miles later, Lupe crossed the bridge over the Tanana River. A couple of miles beyond the river, SPHP left the Alaska Highway turning N on Taylor Highway No. 5 at Tetlin Junction.
The persistent sense of sadness over being on the way out of Alaska that SPHP had felt ever since leaving Palmer disappeared immediately. Lupe had never been this way before! This was all new territory to explore. Suddenly the evening possessed an air of excitement and discovery.
Lupe was no longer near jagged or massive Alaskan peaks of the sort she had been seeing most of the afternoon. Even so, Taylor Highway No. 5 was an interesting and beautiful drive. The highway was paved, had virtually no traffic, and wound its way N through rounded hills and ridges of stunted, spindly forests.
After 15 miles or so, from a high point, Lupe caught sight of something exciting! Still far to the NNE, an impressive hill stood alone, clearly much higher than anything else around. SPHP parked the G6 at a large pullout, so Lupe could get out for a better look at it.
The mysterious towering hill was a mountain, really, yet it was gently rounded, not jagged. Why, Lupe could climb that peak easily enough! Immediately, the desire to see Loopster reach the top of the mighty hill seized SPHP. If the Taylor Highway would bring the American Dingo close enough to it to make an attempt possible, Lupe was going to try it!
Continuing on, Taylor Highway No. 5 did wend its way ever closer to the mysterious hill! Before long, it became apparent the highway was going to pass along the lower W slopes of the mountain. As Lupe drew near, SPHP parked at a pullout on the hill’s long SW ridge. The summit was still some miles away.
It was far too late in the day to consider an ascent now. Lupe and SPHP started up the SW ridge, anyway. The Carolina Dog wasn’t going far. SPHP just wanted to see what the terrain was like, and what sort of obstacles Loop might encounter.
Lupe climbed for only 8 or 9 minutes, sniffing and exploring a forest of spindly, dead trees. The trees were thin and small, and hadn’t amounted to much even when alive. The ground was spongy tundra, but fairly dry. A few rocks, a little deadfall, a moderately steep slope. That was about it for obstacles. SPHP was certain Lupe could climb this hill.
Lupe’s initial exploration was encouraging! Returning to the G6, SPHP drove farther N on Taylor Highway No. 5 looking for the closest point from which Loop could begin an ascent tomorrow morning. The road was about as high on the mountain as it was going to get at about milepost 32.9. SPHP again parked the G6 at a nearby pullout.
Looper made a second exploratory excursion up the slope overlooking the highway. The top of the mountain was in view another 2,000 feet higher. A nearby band of live trees and high bushes appeared to be the only significant obstacle. Lupe ought to be able to get through that easily enough.
The tundra colors were striking in the evening light. Lupe and SPHP stood admiring the beauty of the mountainside, and the amazing views of E Alaska.
A roasted chicken SPHP had bought this morning back in Palmer served as dinner in the G6. Loop enjoyed the chicken feast, then spent the last hour of the evening sniffing excitedly in the jungle of tall bushes by the pullout where the G6 was parked. Meanwhile, SPHP gathered up trash careless travelers had strewn about.
The sky was 90% clear as twilight began to fade. (9:21 PM) Hopes were high for a successful ascent in the morning. After dark, a 3/4 yellow moon rose over the mountain’s ridge.
9-3-17 – Lupe and SPHP woke hours later to see an orange moonset. It seemed very late. The Carolina Dog went out to sniff the air. For the first time in a month, the night sky was clear. Looper could see stars, but only the brightest ones. The night wasn’t very dark. Long stretches of the N sky were brighter than elsewhere. Was that the Northern Lights? The bright streaks didn’t seem to be moving or changing.
Satisfied with her sniffing, Lupe returned to the G6 to continue snoozing. SPHP wasn’t terribly sleepy, and sat watching the night sky off and on for a couple of hours. The bright patches of sky below the Big Dipper were indeed the Northern Lights. They changed only slowly, gradually, except for one 10 or 15 minute period when the lights did suddenly dance and flash.
Perhaps not a particularly good display of Northern Lights for Alaska, but the best SPHP had ever seen. Certainly worth seeing, too. Something primal about it, especially when observed here so alone, so remote in E Alaska with Lupe resting peacefully nearby.
6:21 AM, 33°F, clear, calm – Lupe and SPHP sat sharing English muffins and cheese for breakfast. The heater was on in the G6 to take the chill off. The sun wasn’t up yet, but it was light enough out. Loopster was in luck this morning! The weather had held. She would soon be on her way up the mysterious mountain.
7:04 AM, 33°F, clear, a light breeze – Loop was on her way! She climbed steadily. The band of trees and tall bushes slowed SPHP down, but Lupe was soon above it. She was up on a broad ridge which became increasingly rocky as she gained elevation, but for a long way there was spongy tundra. In many places, the tundra was wet or boggy. Nothing new about that. This area wasn’t particularly challenging compared to other places the American Dingo had been.
Above the trees and bushes, it was easy to see where to go. Lupe headed for a high saddle between the summit and a rocky prominence on the mountain’s S ridge. The only factor limiting her progress was how fast SPHP could manage to trudge up the long slope. Lupe had plenty of time to roam and explore as she pleased.
Although the sky was clear or covered only by high thin clouds, the air was hazy. Lupe could see a long way, but the distant views weren’t as clear and crisp as they might have been. Still, the American Dingo was fortunate to have as good a day as this one.
After a considerable climb, Lupe reached the high saddle she had been striving for S of the summit. The saddle was broad, fairly rocky, but also had a fair amount of tundra vegetation. Movement was still quite easy. Loop had only a few hundred feet of elevation gain left to reach the top of the mountain. It didn’t look like it would be hard to get there.
The climb to the mysterious mountain’s summit was cake. Even the rocky stretches near the top weren’t bad. The rocks were of moderate size. No problem picking a route up through them. Soon structures on top of the mountain that had been faintly visible from the highway were coming into view. Looper was almost there!
Lupe had done it! She arrived at the top of the mysterious mountain. The summit area was large and quite flat, longer N/S than E/W. Most of the summit was strewn with small to medium size dark colored rocks. A small ridge of dark rock close to the SE end of the summit area E of the first structures looked like the true summit. The diminutive ridge was only slightly higher than the rest of the summit.
Of course, Lupe went right on over to the true summit to claim her latest peakbagging success!
Lupe’s success in reaching the top of this mountain in E Alaska was very satisfying in several ways. When Lupe left home on this Dingo Vacation, SPHP had brought along a list of peakbagging possibilities and a few other activities she might find worthwhile.
Slope Mountain(4,010 ft.) N of the Brooks Range was the only other mountain Lupe had climbed that wasn’t on this premeditated list. The spontaneity of discovering this prominent peak only yesterday, then climbing it this morning without the aid of any roads, trails, or maps was really fun. Such an unexpected treat! SPHP didn’t even know what mountain Lupe was on.
Another cool thing was that this mountain felt so alone and remote. Yesterday evening, Lupe had climbed Bodenburg Butte(886 ft.) near Palmer. She’d had great views from there, but it really wasn’t much of a feat. The butte wasn’t all that high, and was frequently climbed being so close to Alaska’s major population centers. SPHP was glad this much higher and more remote peak was now destined to be the last mountain Lupe would climb in Alaska, instead of little Bodenburg Butte.
SPHP expressed such joy and enthusiasm over Lupe’s successful ascent, that Looper got into the spirit of it all, too. She began to think maybe she ought to re-enact the final moments of her trek to the top. After all, she had become the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood on this trip. Perhaps this moment ought to be preserved for posterity and the Arctic Sisterhood’s archives?
After the glorious re-enactment was complete, Lupe and SPHP wandered around exploring the summit. The most dramatic mountains Loopster could see from here were a line of high white ones far to the SW. They were so far away, the haze made them difficult to see very well without help from the camera’s telephoto lens.
Hills, ridges, and mountains as high as the one Lupe was on could be seen in most directions, but they were all many miles away. This lone mountain dominated a large area.
While exploring the summit, Lupe made a discovery that solved a key mystery. On a rock close to the N edge, she found a survey benchmark. The benchmark was stamped with the hitherto unknown name of the mountain she was on.
Mount Fairplay(5,541 ft.)! SPHP had never heard of it before, but that was where Lupe was right now. An interesting name. SPHP wondered how the mountain came by it, and if this name had a particular meaning or story behind it?
For a while, Loopster and SPHP sat together at the N end of the summit area surveying the scenery from the last mountain the American Dingo would climb in Alaska, at least on this Dingo Vacation.
The survey benchmark Lupe had found was stamped No. 2. SPHP looked around for a No. 1, but didn’t have the same success Lupe did.
When Lupe had spent nearly an hour up on Mount Fairplay, it was time to think about moving on. The Carolina Dog would go back down using approximately the same route she came up. Before doing so, Loopster visited a big rock along the E edge of the summit area that appeared to be in contention for the title of true summit.
Lupe also returned to the true summit, which was nearby.
Precisely an hour after she arrived on top of Mount Fairplay, Lupe began her descent from the SW end of the summit area. The descent was fun and relaxing, with beautiful views all the way down. The mountain’s dark rocks contrasted with yellows, golds, and reds of the tundra.
The Carolina Dog was wild and free, roaming wherever she pleased. She returned frequently to check on SPHP before dashing off to explore new mysteries borne on the breeze. Mount Fairplay(5,541 ft.) was Lupe’s last Alaskan adventure of 2017. She made the most of it, and had a wonderful time.
12:13 PM, 50°F – Mount Fairplay had been great fun, an excellent finale to Lupe’s 2017 adventures in Alaska! The Carolina Dog arrived back at the G6 only a little after noon. Time to head for Yukon Territory! Lupe and SPHP proceeded N on Taylor Highway No. 5.
The road was paved most of the time until Lupe got within 20 miles or so of Chicken. Then Taylor “Highway” No. 5 turned to rather rough gravel. Since Chicken was the last metropolis Lupe would visit in Alaska, SPHP stopped for fuel.
Lupe eagerly inspected the chickens in Chicken. Disappointingly, though gigantic, they didn’t look or sniff tasty at all. The enormous tasteless chickens appeared to be confined as suspects at a crime scene, judging by the yellow plastic tape encircling them.
Beyond Chicken, Taylor Highway No. 5 remained rough gravel. The road eventually started climbing steadily, reaching quite a height by the time the turn to Eagle appeared. Here, Lupe and SPHP left Taylor Highway No. 5 on a beautiful newly paved road. This road wound around high up on ridges for 12 miles, the rest of the way to customs at the Canadian border. Lupe crossed into Yukon Territory about 3:15 PM.
On the Canadian side, Lupe was now on the Top of the World Highway, a gravel road which goes 65 miles to the Yukon River at Dawson City.
The Top of the World Highway was all gravel, and a bit rough for the G6 in spots, but was in good overall condition. Most of the way to Dawson City, it wound along a series of high ridges. Lupe was farther N in the Yukon Territory than she had ever been before. This was an area of rounded mountains and ridges separated by deep valleys.
SPHP drove slowly, both for the sake of the G6, and to enjoy the remote scenery. Every now and then, it was time to let Lupe out to stretch, and take an even more leisurely look at particularly beautiful sights.
The Top of the World Highway finally began coming down off the ridges as Lupe neared Dawson City. The highway ended on the W bank of the Yukon River. No bridge exists across the river here. Lupe would have to take the ferry to get over to Dawson City.
Fortunately, although the ferry would cease its 2017 operations later this month, it was still busy taking vehicles back and forth across the river this evening. Several other vehicles were in line, so there would be a bit of a wait. Lupe went down to the Yukon River for a look around.
Lupe enjoyed the ferry ride across the Yukon River. The Carolina Dog had never traveled by ferry before. The ferry was tame compared to the water taxi ride she’d taken from the Homer Spit across Kachemak Bay to climb Grace Ridge back in 2016.
Upon reaching the E bank, SPHP drove into Dawson City and parked. When Lupe got out of the G6, she wanted to go right back down to the Yukon River to see how things looked from this side.
Satisfied that the river looked quite similar from this bank, Lupe next visited the nearby SS Keno, a sternwheel paddle steamer preserved here in Dawson City for its historic significance.
Dawson City reminded SPHP of Skagway on a smaller scale. It was full of historic old buildings, shops, and restaurants. People were around, but it was already September. Overall, things were fairly quiet. Lupe dropped by the General Store, but it was closed.
Dawson City must boast a gas station somewhere, but SPHP couldn’t find it. A driving tour of Dawson’s main streets didn’t turn one up. Hmm. About sundown, Lupe and SPHP left town heading E on the Klondike Highway. Expensive fuel was available at the intersection with the Dempster Highway. SPHP couldn’t afford to be too picky.
After fueling up, Lupe and SPHP set off on the Dempster Highway. Right away, Lupe crossed a bridge over the Klondike River. She made it only another 20 kilometers before the fading light signified that it was time to call it a day. Better get rested up! Tomorrow the American Dingo’s adventures would take her into Tombstone Territorial Park.