Day 36 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
9:00 AM, 54°F, at a pullout near Kilometer 20 of the Dempster Highway – Ugh! So late! Lupe was wide awake, staring out of the G6. She probably had been for a long time. 54°F! No wonder SPHP had slept so well. Comfortably warm for once, instead of the usual Yukon chill. Lupe eagerly dashed out of the G6 as soon as she got the chance, disappearing into the woods nearby.
Cheese and English muffins for breakfast. Loop returned for that. Her right rear paw seemed OK now. Yesterday evening she had been hopping around on 3 legs shortly after getting here. A raw spot in between her pads seemed to be the problem. She must have gotten cut stepping on something sharp. Maybe the antibiotic ointment SPHP applied had actually helped?
As soon as breakfast was over, Lupe and SPHP hit the road traveling N on the Dempster Highway. Loop spotted the Tombstone Territorial Park sign near kilometer 50. A quick photo stop was clearly in order.
Lupe reaches Tombstone Territorial Park near kilometer 50 of the Dempster Highway.
The Dempster Highway goes right through Tombstone Territorial Park. Lupe had never been here before. As she continued N into the park, the scenery was rapidly becoming more and more stunning. Wow, this looked promising! Only September 4th, but fall colors were already evident. Even though the sky was overcast, everything was so beautiful!
Lupe stands on the Dempster Highway in Tombstone Territorial Park close to where the big mountains start. Fall colors were already here.Even on an overcast day, the Oligvie Mountains were serving up some spectacular scenery. Photo looks NE.
The Dempster Highway wound along the W side of the North Klondike River valley. Around each bend were more magnificent sights.
The Dempster Highway winds up the North Klondike River valley. Photo looks NNE.
The highway was gaining elevation. Tree line isn’t very high in Tombstone Territorial Park. Forests were soon confined only to valleys and lower mountain slopes. Higher up, bright yellows, oranges, and reds of the tundra were splashed across the dark gray exposed rock of the steep mountain slopes. The overall effect gave the Oligvie Mountains a most striking and distinctive appearance.
The higher mountains of the Oligvie Range were almost entirely above tree line. Bright colors of the tundra vegetation clinging to the dark rocky slopes gave the mountains a strikingly beautiful and distinctive appearance. Photo looks NE.
As Lupe passed the Tombstone Interpretive Centre at kilometer 71.5, the Dempster Highway began climbing much more aggressively. The sense that the Carolina Dog was approaching something truly fabulous just ahead was strong.
The highway angled NW along a steep slope. The North Klondike River, which was now W of the highway, could be seen curving away toward a side valley. Such a glorious view! Had to stop for this!
Several km N of the interpretive centre, Lupe stopped along the Dempster Highway for this grand view of the North Klondike River. Photo looks SW.The Tombstone Interpretive Centre is way down in the valley almost straight up from Lupe. Photo looks SSE down the North Klondike River valley.Another look at the North Klondike River from the same spot. The colors turned out more vivid in this photo, and give a much better idea how brilliantly colored everything appeared. Unfortunately, the overcast sky had a tendency to make photos look washed out. Photo looks SW.
SPHP had stopped a little too soon to get the best view of the long valley the North Klondike River originates from. Lupe and SPHP hopped back in the G6, went a bit farther and higher, and stopped again. Incredible! Lupe could now see much more. The Carolina Dog could even see the iconic symbol of Tombstone Provincial Park. At the far end of the long valley stood Tombstone Mountain(7,192 ft.)!
(Note: To see topo maps after clicking on any mountain link in this post, switch from CalTopo to MyTopo at upper L on the Google dynamic map.)
From a slightly higher vantage point, Lupe could see much farther up the long North Klondike River valley. Tombstone Mountain(7,192 ft.) (Center) juts up at the far end. Photo looks SW.Tombstone Mountain (R) with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.A broader, but sadly washed out look at Tombstone Mountain. Photo looks SW.
Though distant Tombstone Mountain grabbed and held the attention, other beautiful mountains were much closer by.
Looking S at some of the gorgeous nearby peaks.A river of gold pours down North Fork Mountain(6,000 ft.) (L). Photo looks NW.
As beautiful as these scenes were, Lupe had farther to go. When SPHP was finally able to turn away from the glorious sights right here, it was back into the G6. The Dempster Highway turned NE continuing higher, then quickly began to level out. The highway curved gradually back to the NNW, and went over a broad level saddle.
Loopster had reached North Fork Pass, the high point of the Dempster Highway in Tombstone Territorial Park. N of the pass, Lupe entered a wide valley which was part of the East Blackstone River drainage. The highway descended slowly along the E side of this valley.
The Oligvie Mountains weren’t quite as rugged here as back near the viewpoint where Lupe had just seen Tombstone Mountain. Even so, this area had an impressively stark aspect to it. Scarcely a tree was in sight. The Dempster Highway passed a kilometer E of a small lake. Loop and SPHP left the G6 here, walking a bit back up the highway experiencing an incredible sense of remoteness.
Lupe in the North Fork Pass region. The small lake is part of the East Blackstone River drainage. Photo looks W.A closer look with help from the telephoto lens.N of North Fork Pass bushes grew in profusion, but scarcely a tree was in sight. The East Blackstone River valley and the surrounding Oligvie Mountains exuded a stark, remote feel. Photo looks NW.Loop on the Dempster Highway on her way back to the G6 (R). SPHP didn’t realize it yet, but her peakbagging objective, Surfbird Mountain (the high point of the distant ridge on the R) was already in sight. Photo looks NW.
Lupe and SPHP continued N from North Fork Pass. Somewhere, still 15 or 20 km ahead, was Lupe’s peakbagging objective for the day, Surfbird Mountain(5,300 ft.). The highway crossed over to the W side of the East Blackstone River. SPHP started watching for a microwave tower to the W, which doubles as the trailhead for Surfbird Mountain.
The highway again passed E of a small lake. The road was much closer to this second lake. Although the microwave tower hadn’t appeared yet, SPHP stopped so Lupe could sniff around.
Lupe near another small lake in the East Blackstone River valley. Photo looks W.SPHP still didn’t realize it, but at this second small lake Lupe was getting very close to Surfbird Mountain. In fact, Surfbird Mountain is the ridge seen beyond the lake. The summit Looper would be heading to is on the L. Photo looks NW.
The turn W (L) on the side road leading to the microwave tower was supposed to be near kilometer 98.5, but SPHP had written down the wrong number. A microwave tower did come into view shortly after Lupe left the second small lake, however. That had to be it, so SPHP made the turn and drove a couple km up the side road to the tower.
Not a soul was around, which was a good thing, since there wasn’t a lot of extra space to park here where the G6 wouldn’t block access to the tower in the event a service vehicle happened along. There was plenty of room for just the G6, though.
Parked at the microwave tower a couple kilometers W of the Dempster Highway. The turn is near km 98.5. Photo looks ESE.
12:58 PM, 50°F at the microwave tower near km 98.5 of the Dempster Highway – The overcast sky was a bit discouraging, but the weather didn’t seem threatening at the moment. Having just had a bite to eat, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was ready to set off for Surfbird Mountain(5,300 ft.). Surfbird was supposed to be a really easy climb, so if the weather would hold out, Looper should get there.
Lines of tall bushes coming down the ridge W of the microwave tower marked drainages where there might be really wet ground, or even streams. No sense getting wet feet right off, if it could be avoided. To avoid these drainages, Lupe and SPHP set off going W straight up the slope.
Looper ready to set off for Surfbird Mountain. The E end of Surfbird Mountain is seen beyond her. Instead of heading directly for the mountain, Loop would go W (R) from here to gain the top of a ridge in order to avoid the wet drainage areas where tall bushes flourished. Photo looks S.Partway up the first slope, still climbing toward the ridge out of sight on the R (W). Photo looks S.
The tundra was spongy and damp everywhere. For SPHP’s sake, Lupe did manage to avoid the wettest areas. She went all the way up to the top of the ridge W of the microwave tower. The ridge was very broad. Lupe now had a clear view of Surfbird Mountain’s summit. So easy! This climb was going to be nothing more than a stroll up a big hill. Avoiding drainages and boggy areas was all there was to it.
Instead of going directly toward the summit, Looper headed S toward a closer high point.
Up on the first ridge W of the microwave tower, Loopster has a clear view of Surfbird Mountain’s summit (R) ahead. Instead of going directly to it, she proceeded toward the high point seen beyond her (L) first. Photo looks S.The remote, natural beauty of the Oligvie Mountains surrounded Lupe on an enormous scale. Beauty was present on a tiny scale, too, in the form of countless exquisite little tundra plants beneath her paws.
A steady climb up the long slope brought Lupe to a big flat area on top of the next ridge. Total elevation gain to the summit of Surfbird Mountain is about 1,500 feet from the microwave tower. Lupe had already gained close to 1,300 feet, so most of the work was done. The ground was nice and dry up here. Looper was perfectly happy curling up and relaxing, while SPHP admired the already magnificent views.
Loop stands along the N edge of the long slope she had just climbed. The Dempster Highway is in view below. Two Moose Lake is in the distance on the L. Photo looks NE.Loopster takes a Dingo nap up on the big flat area. The summit of Surfbird Mountain is the hill seen beyond her. The high peak on the R is Blackstone Mountain (6,900 ft.). Mount Auston (6,500 ft.) is at Center. Photo looks SW.Looking NW toward light gray mountains of the Patrol Range.View to the N. The microwave tower where the G6 is parked is seen below at Center.
When SPHP was ready to move on, Lupe led the way heading SW from the flat area. She lost elevation going down a dip in the broad ridge, but not any great amount. The summit of Surfbird Mountain(5,300 ft.) was in view beyond the dip. Lupe headed for a closer high point first.
Lupe in the dip in the broad ridge. The Dempster Highway is in the distance at Center. The first small lake Lupe had seen near North Fork Pass is on the R. Angelcomb Peak(6,300 ft.) is seen straight up from Lupe. Photo looks SE.Crossing the dip in the broad ridge. Surfbird Mountain’s summit is the hill on the R. Loop is on her way to the closer high point on the L first. Photo looks SW.Up on the last high point before the summit. The second lake Lupe had stopped by on the way here is on the R. Photo looks SE.
Most of Surfbird Mountain(5,300 ft.) is a wide ridge. Toward the W end, the absolute summit is a narrow hill superimposed upon the main ridge. That hill wasn’t far away at all now. Lupe left the high point heading W right to it. At the top of the hill, she found a short, stony ridgeline running E/W.
Lupe heads for the narrow hill where the summit of Surfbird Mountain is located. Photo looks WNW.Loop reaches the summit! Mount Auston (L) and Blackstone Mountain (Center) are beyond her. Photo looks SW.Lupe sits at the true summit of Surfbird Mountain. A chilly S breeze was blowing from behind her. Blackstone Mountain on the R. Photo looks SW.
Even though Surfbird Mountain was an easy climb, the views were tremendous!
Looking E from the summit.Same view with help from the telephoto lens.Looking WSW up the Wildhorse Creek valley (L) toward Blackstone Mountain and Mount Auston.Looking NW.The East Blackstone River and Dempster Highway are both visible down by the second lake Lupe dropped by on the way here. Angelcomb Peak(6,300 ft.) is in view beyond the lake. Photo looks SE.Both of the lakes Lupe stopped by can be seen in this photo. The first one is far away on the R. Angelcomb Peak is the pointy peak in view well beyond the closer lake. The near ridge on the R is the E end of Rake Mountain. Photo looks SE.
Off to the W, another hill even higher than Surfbird Mountain was only a mile or so away. Lupe might easily have gone over there, but didn’t for 2 reasons.
First of all, the weather was questionable. The sky had been completely overcast all day. The situation wasn’t improving, either. Toward the S horizon, it now looked like rain or fog. A chilly S wind was sweeping over Surfbird Mountain, potentially driving the precipitation this way. SPHP didn’t relish the notion of getting drenched at some point.
Secondly, Lupe’s right rear paw was bothering her. She was occasionally hopping on 3 legs again. Making Looper go any farther on a sore paw wasn’t a kind thing to ask her to do. That just wouldn’t be right.
No worries. Surfbird Mountain was a great place to be! Might as well enjoy the awesome scenes from right here. Instead of pushing on, Lupe and SPHP spent an entire hour at Surfbird’s summit. Most of this time was spent N of and below the rocky crest to avoid the wind.
The whole sky was a sullen gray. The world stretched away to the N all brown and drab. It felt, it looked, like late November back home. What an amazing place, though! Lonely and quiet, the vast emptiness of the hills, ridges, valleys, and peaks of the Yukon’s Oligvie Range extended as far as the American Dingo could see.
Lupe sat huddled partially inside SPHP’s jacket. Watching, waiting. Nothing moved. The only sound, the swirling breeze. Sublime.
Watching the world from Surfbird Mountain on a somber, gray day. Photo looks W.While the vast scene to the N looked brown and drab, nearby objects revealed intricate colors and patterns.
SPHP wanted to keep an eye on the weather. Every now and then, Lupe braved the cold wind, climbing the few feet necessary to get back on top of the mountain. The situation to the S never seemed to change much. Looper could linger a while longer.
Back up on the summit again exposed to that chilly S breeze. Photo looks NE.Lupe and SPHP spent a lot of time on the grassy spot below the rock Loop is perched on. Photo looks ENE.Stay right there, Loopster! That’s a great rock you’re on. I want to get a dramatic Dingo shot. ….. Well, hurry it up then, SPHP! This wind is annoying.How does this look? Dramatic enough for you? …. Oh, pretty good, Loop. A little bright blue sky wouldn’t hurt a thing, but seems to be in mighty short supply today.
Lupe’s incredible, wonderful hour at the top of Surfbird Mountain came and went. The Carolina Dog left her hiding spot, returning once more to the summit.
Mount Auston (L) and Blackstone Mountain (R). Photo looks SW.The Wildhorse Creek valley, Blackstone Mountain (Center) and Mount Auston (L) from Surfbird Mountain. Photo looks SW.Looking down into Wildhorse Creek valley. Rake Mountain (Center) is on the other side. Photo looks S.Back at the true summit. Photo looks E.Well, that’s about it. This is Lupe, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, from atop Surfbird Mountain in Tombstone Territorial Park. I’ve never been on a mountain this far N in the Yukon Territory before. It’s a mighty fine peak and easy to climb. If you come here, bring some sunshine if you can, but you won’t be disappointed either way!
On the way back, Lupe varied her route somewhat. When she reached the big flat area on the second ridge, she went all the way out to its far E end. Here she had a great view of the East Blackstone River valley, and a prominent thumb of rock nearby to the N.
On the way back to the G6, Lupe went way out to the E end of the lower ridge on the L. Photo looks ENE from the E end of Surfbird Mountain’s little summit ridge.The beautiful, intricate tundra.Looking down on the Dempster Highway from the NE end of Surfbird Mountain. Two Moose Lake is the larger lake on the L. Lone Moose Lake is on the R. The side road leading to the microwave tower is at lower L. Photo looks NE.Looking down on the thumb of rock (L) at the NE end of Surfbird Mountain. Photo looks NE.
The return trip was a blast! So easy, with spectacular views the entire way! The weather never did deteriorate. Lupe didn’t get rained on. She had a great time roaming the gorgeous tundra. To avoid wet, tussocky areas, the Carolina Dog did have to circle back around to the W again somewhat before turning N.
The return trip was great fun! Remote Oligvie Mountain views like this one the whole way. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.So gloriously beautiful here! Makes you want to keep going forever, doesn’t it, SPHP? ….. Sure does, Loop! Afraid you’re going to have to rest that paw up, though.The tundra jungle from an ant’s viewpoint.
Lupe returned to the G6 coming down off that same first W ridge she’d climbed on the way up. (6:32 PM, 50°F) She’d had such a grand time roaming, running, and sniffing on the way back, that she’d overdone it. Loop was frequently hopping along on 3 paws now. Worrisome. SPHP slathered more antibiotic cream on the raw area between her pads.
Surfbird Mountain was as far N as Lupe was going in Tombstone Park. Her experience today was so phenomenal, and the Oligvie Mountains had made such an impression, that the Carolina Dog was going to get to stick around a while longer. Another great adventure tomorrow! That paw better heal up!
SPHP drove back to the Dempster Highway and turned S. Before long, a pullout appeared on the E side of the road. It proved to be a two-tier pullout. No one at either place. The lower area was nice and secluded – big, flat, and surrounded by tall bushes. A stream ran along the SE side, flowing into a hidden pond. The pond was only a foot deep. Air bubbles streamed up from the bottom all over the place.
Lupe loved this spot! She enthusiastically explored the forest of bushes along the stream and pond. This would do for sure!
By late evening, the sky showed hopeful signs. Pink clouds glowed off to the NW over by Surfbird Mountain. Oh, yeah! Blue skies would really bring out the spectacular fall colors. Loop and SPHP crashed for the night thinking positive thoughts for the morrow. (9:15 PM, 50°F)
Exploring the jungle of bushes by the stream in the lower parking area. Guess that paw doesn’t hurt too bad.By the foot deep bubbly pond. Photo looks E.
Days 34 & 35 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
9-2-17, 9:30 AM – Overslept! Good grief. For once it hadn’t rained at all overnight. Most of the morning sky was blue. Maybe the weather really was improving? Easy to get fooled in Alaska, though. SPHP was far from certain it wouldn’t rain later in the day. Should Lupe stick around Palmer, or not? SPHP pondered the question while buying supplies at the new Fred Meyer store.
11:02 AM, 50°F – No, Lupe wasn’t going to stay. The day was already looking hazier than “early” on. The Carolina Dog was going to leave Palmer seeking more reliable skies elsewhere. September was here. Maybe she would find fairer weather in the Yukon? Her time in glorious Alaska was about up. Sad, but true. Lupe stared out the window of the G6, as SPHP drove out of Palmer on Glen Highway No. 1.
The day was spent traveling. SPHP made a number of stops along the way so Loop could stretch her legs, and spend a few minutes appreciating the beauty of Alaska.
Lupe enjoys a view of the Copper River from a pullout along the Tok Cut-off near Gakona.Another look at the Copper River, this time looking downstream.Lupe on the Tok Cut-Off bridge over the Chistochina River. Photo looks SE.Spectacular Mount Sanford is in view beyond the Chistochina River. Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.Zoomed in on Mount Sanford(16,237 ft.) from the Chistochina River bridge. Photo looks SE.Looking N up the Chistochina River from the Tok Cut-Off bridge.
After fueling the G6 in Tok (5:43 PM, 58°F), SPHP drove ESE on the Alaska Highway. A dozen miles later, Lupe crossed the bridge over the Tanana River. A couple of miles beyond the river, SPHP left the Alaska Highway turning N on Taylor Highway No. 5 at Tetlin Junction.
The persistent sense of sadness over being on the way out of Alaska that SPHP had felt ever since leaving Palmer disappeared immediately. Lupe had never been this way before! This was all new territory to explore. Suddenly the evening possessed an air of excitement and discovery.
Lupe was no longer near jagged or massive Alaskan peaks of the sort she had been seeing most of the afternoon. Even so, Taylor Highway No. 5 was an interesting and beautiful drive. The highway was paved, had virtually no traffic, and wound its way N through rounded hills and ridges of stunted, spindly forests.
After 15 miles or so, from a high point, Lupe caught sight of something exciting! Still far to the NNE, an impressive hill stood alone, clearly much higher than anything else around. SPHP parked the G6 at a large pullout, so Lupe could get out for a better look at it.
Roughly 15 miles from Tetlin Junction, SPHP stopped at a pullout along Taylor Highway No. 5 so Lupe could get out of the G6 for a better look at the impressive high hill seen on the L. Photo looks NNE.
The mysterious towering hill was a mountain, really, yet it was gently rounded, not jagged. Why, Lupe could climb that peak easily enough! Immediately, the desire to see Loopster reach the top of the mighty hill seized SPHP. If the Taylor Highway would bring the American Dingo close enough to it to make an attempt possible, Lupe was going to try it!
SPHP immediately resolved that if Taylor Highway No. 5 would bring Lupe close enough to this mysterious towering hill, she was going to climb it!
Continuing on, Taylor Highway No. 5 did wend its way ever closer to the mysterious hill! Before long, it became apparent the highway was going to pass along the lower W slopes of the mountain. As Lupe drew near, SPHP parked at a pullout on the hill’s long SW ridge. The summit was still some miles away.
It was far too late in the day to consider an ascent now. Lupe and SPHP started up the SW ridge, anyway. The Carolina Dog wasn’t going far. SPHP just wanted to see what the terrain was like, and what sort of obstacles Loop might encounter.
Lupe climbed for only 8 or 9 minutes, sniffing and exploring a forest of spindly, dead trees. The trees were thin and small, and hadn’t amounted to much even when alive. The ground was spongy tundra, but fairly dry. A few rocks, a little deadfall, a moderately steep slope. That was about it for obstacles. SPHP was certain Lupe could climb this hill.
View of E Alaska from the first pullout Looper stopped at near the mysterious high hill. This was beautiful, remote territory. Photo looks WNW.Lupe on her short exploratory excursion up the mysterious hill’s long SW ridge. Taylor Highway No. 5 continues N beyond her. Photo looks N.Loop’s brief initial excursion quickly convinced SPHP that the Carolina Dog shouldn’t have any problems climbing this mysterious hill. Photo looks S.
Lupe’s initial exploration was encouraging! Returning to the G6, SPHP drove farther N on Taylor Highway No. 5 looking for the closest point from which Loop could begin an ascent tomorrow morning. The road was about as high on the mountain as it was going to get at about milepost 32.9. SPHP again parked the G6 at a nearby pullout.
Looper made a second exploratory excursion up the slope overlooking the highway. The top of the mountain was in view another 2,000 feet higher. A nearby band of live trees and high bushes appeared to be the only significant obstacle. Lupe ought to be able to get through that easily enough.
Lupe sits on the slope where she would begin her ascent of the mysterious mountain in the morning. The summit (L) was still 2,000 feet above her. The nearby trees and tall bushes looked like the only real obstacle. Lupe shouldn’t have any problem getting through that! Photo looks E.
The tundra colors were striking in the evening light. Lupe and SPHP stood admiring the beauty of the mountainside, and the amazing views of E Alaska.
The colorful tundra was strikingly beautiful in the evening light. Taylor Highway No. 5 is seen winding its way along the W slopes of the mysterious mountain Lupe intended to climb. Photo looks SSW.
A roasted chicken SPHP had bought this morning back in Palmer served as dinner in the G6. Loop enjoyed the chicken feast, then spent the last hour of the evening sniffing excitedly in the jungle of tall bushes by the pullout where the G6 was parked. Meanwhile, SPHP gathered up trash careless travelers had strewn about.
The sky was 90% clear as twilight began to fade. (9:21 PM) Hopes were high for a successful ascent in the morning. After dark, a 3/4 yellow moon rose over the mountain’s ridge.
9-3-17 – Lupe and SPHP woke hours later to see an orange moonset. It seemed very late. The Carolina Dog went out to sniff the air. For the first time in a month, the night sky was clear. Looper could see stars, but only the brightest ones. The night wasn’t very dark. Long stretches of the N sky were brighter than elsewhere. Was that the Northern Lights? The bright streaks didn’t seem to be moving or changing.
Satisfied with her sniffing, Lupe returned to the G6 to continue snoozing. SPHP wasn’t terribly sleepy, and sat watching the night sky off and on for a couple of hours. The bright patches of sky below the Big Dipper were indeed the Northern Lights. They changed only slowly, gradually, except for one 10 or 15 minute period when the lights did suddenly dance and flash.
Perhaps not a particularly good display of Northern Lights for Alaska, but the best SPHP had ever seen. Certainly worth seeing, too. Something primal about it, especially when observed here so alone, so remote in E Alaska with Lupe resting peacefully nearby.
6:21 AM, 33°F, clear, calm – Lupe and SPHP sat sharing English muffins and cheese for breakfast. The heater was on in the G6 to take the chill off. The sun wasn’t up yet, but it was light enough out. Loopster was in luck this morning! The weather had held. She would soon be on her way up the mysterious mountain.
7:04 AM, 33°F, clear, a light breeze – Loop was on her way! She climbed steadily. The band of trees and tall bushes slowed SPHP down, but Lupe was soon above it. She was up on a broad ridge which became increasingly rocky as she gained elevation, but for a long way there was spongy tundra. In many places, the tundra was wet or boggy. Nothing new about that. This area wasn’t particularly challenging compared to other places the American Dingo had been.
Lupe starts her early morning journey up the mysterious mountain. She’s already well above the band of trees and large bushes here. Photo looks NW.
Above the trees and bushes, it was easy to see where to go. Lupe headed for a high saddle between the summit and a rocky prominence on the mountain’s S ridge. The only factor limiting her progress was how fast SPHP could manage to trudge up the long slope. Lupe had plenty of time to roam and explore as she pleased.
It was easy to see which way to go. Lupe headed for the high saddle seen straight up from her. Photo looks SE.Lupe had plenty of time to roam and explore as she pleased, while SPHP trudged slowly higher.The upper slopes of the mountain were strewn with rock. Lupe was able to avoid nearly all that sort of terrain while proceeding up to the saddle (far R). Photo looks E.
Although the sky was clear or covered only by high thin clouds, the air was hazy. Lupe could see a long way, but the distant views weren’t as clear and crisp as they might have been. Still, the American Dingo was fortunate to have as good a day as this one.
Despite mostly clear skies, the morning became a bit hazy. Looking down the long SW ridge after Lupe had gained considerable elevation. Taylor Highway No. 5 is seen below on the R. Photo looks SSW.
After a considerable climb, Lupe reached the high saddle she had been striving for S of the summit. The saddle was broad, fairly rocky, but also had a fair amount of tundra vegetation. Movement was still quite easy. Loop had only a few hundred feet of elevation gain left to reach the top of the mountain. It didn’t look like it would be hard to get there.
The broad saddle S of the summit was rocky, but there was still enough vegetation around to make travel far easier than an endless rock hop would have been. Photo looks S.Once Lupe reached the high saddle, she only had a few hundred feet of elevation left to gain to reach the top of the mountain. It didn’t look hard at all. Photo looks NNE.
The climb to the mysterious mountain’s summit was cake. Even the rocky stretches near the top weren’t bad. The rocks were of moderate size. No problem picking a route up through them. Soon structures on top of the mountain that had been faintly visible from the highway were coming into view. Looper was almost there!
Structures that had been faintly visible from down at the highway came into view again as Lupe neared the summit. She was almost there! Photo looks N.
Lupe had done it! She arrived at the top of the mysterious mountain. The summit area was large and quite flat, longer N/S than E/W. Most of the summit was strewn with small to medium size dark colored rocks. A small ridge of dark rock close to the SE end of the summit area E of the first structures looked like the true summit. The diminutive ridge was only slightly higher than the rest of the summit.
Of course, Lupe went right on over to the true summit to claim her latest peakbagging success!
Lupe stands on the rock pile that appeared to be the true summit of the mysterious mountain to claim her peakbagging success. Photo looks ESE.Lupe at the true summit. A majority, perhaps 75%, of the summit area is in view. Photo looks N.
Lupe’s success in reaching the top of this mountain in E Alaska was very satisfying in several ways. When Lupe left home on this Dingo Vacation, SPHP had brought along a list of peakbagging possibilities and a few other activities she might find worthwhile.
Slope Mountain(4,010 ft.) N of the Brooks Range was the only other mountain Lupe had climbed that wasn’t on this premeditated list. The spontaneity of discovering this prominent peak only yesterday, then climbing it this morning without the aid of any roads, trails, or maps was really fun. Such an unexpected treat! SPHP didn’t even know what mountain Lupe was on.
Another cool thing was that this mountain felt so alone and remote. Yesterday evening, Lupe had climbed Bodenburg Butte(886 ft.) near Palmer. She’d had great views from there, but it really wasn’t much of a feat. The butte wasn’t all that high, and was frequently climbed being so close to Alaska’s major population centers. SPHP was glad this much higher and more remote peak was now destined to be the last mountain Lupe would climb in Alaska, instead of little Bodenburg Butte.
SPHP expressed such joy and enthusiasm over Lupe’s successful ascent, that Looper got into the spirit of it all, too. She began to think maybe she ought to re-enact the final moments of her trek to the top. After all, she had become the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood on this trip. Perhaps this moment ought to be preserved for posterity and the Arctic Sisterhood’s archives?
The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood struggles valiantly to the summit of a remote and mysterious peak in E Alaska! Photo looks SSW.Yes! This is how I did it, coming right up this S side of the mountain from far below!
After the glorious re-enactment was complete, Lupe and SPHP wandered around exploring the summit. The most dramatic mountains Loopster could see from here were a line of high white ones far to the SW. They were so far away, the haze made them difficult to see very well without help from the camera’s telephoto lens.
The highest mountains that could be seen were so far away, it took assistance from the camera’s telephoto lens to get a good look at them. Photo looks SW.
Hills, ridges, and mountains as high as the one Lupe was on could be seen in most directions, but they were all many miles away. This lone mountain dominated a large area.
Lupe along the E edge of the summit area. It was a long way down from here! Photo looks SE.Looking NE along the E edge of the summit.
While exploring the summit, Lupe made a discovery that solved a key mystery. On a rock close to the N edge, she found a survey benchmark. The benchmark was stamped with the hitherto unknown name of the mountain she was on.
Loopster near the N end of the summit area, close to where she made a discovery that revealed the name of this mountain she had climbed. Photo looks S.Lupe stands on the rock bearing the survey benchmark she found. The benchmark is seen behind her R rear paw. Photo looks N.Mystery solved! Lupe was on Mount Fairplay!
Mount Fairplay(5,541 ft.)! SPHP had never heard of it before, but that was where Lupe was right now. An interesting name. SPHP wondered how the mountain came by it, and if this name had a particular meaning or story behind it?
For a while, Loopster and SPHP sat together at the N end of the summit area surveying the scenery from the last mountain the American Dingo would climb in Alaska, at least on this Dingo Vacation.
Looking NNW from Mount Fairplay. Taylor Highway No. 5 heads N toward Chicken.
The survey benchmark Lupe had found was stamped No. 2. SPHP looked around for a No. 1, but didn’t have the same success Lupe did.
When Lupe had spent nearly an hour up on Mount Fairplay, it was time to think about moving on. The Carolina Dog would go back down using approximately the same route she came up. Before doing so, Loopster visited a big rock along the E edge of the summit area that appeared to be in contention for the title of true summit.
Before leaving Mount Fairplay, Looper visited this rock along the E edge of the summit area that appeared to be nearly as high as the small ridge SPHP considered to be the true summit. Photo looks S.
Lupe also returned to the true summit, which was nearby.
Lupe returns to the true summit of Mount Fairplay. Photo looks N.
Precisely an hour after she arrived on top of Mount Fairplay, Lupe began her descent from the SW end of the summit area. The descent was fun and relaxing, with beautiful views all the way down. The mountain’s dark rocks contrasted with yellows, golds, and reds of the tundra.
The Carolina Dog was wild and free, roaming wherever she pleased. She returned frequently to check on SPHP before dashing off to explore new mysteries borne on the breeze. Mount Fairplay(5,541 ft.) was Lupe’s last Alaskan adventure of 2017. She made the most of it, and had a wonderful time.
Looking SW from Mount Fairplay before starting the descent.Precisely an hour after reaching the summit, Lupe begins her descent. Photo looks SSW.Looking back at Mount Fairplay from the high saddle along the S ridge. Photo looks N.The rocky knob at the S end of the high saddle. Lupe didn’t go all the way over there, though SPHP thought about it. She easily could have. Photo looks S.Looking back at Mount Fairplay from below the high S saddle. Photo looks NNE.Mount Fairplay was the last Alaskan peak Lupe climbed in 2017. She had a wonderful time! Photo looks NE.Looking SSW.Happy times in Alaska in fields of gold.Busy, busy, all the way down! Photo looks N.
12:13 PM, 50°F – Mount Fairplay had been great fun, an excellent finale to Lupe’s 2017 adventures in Alaska! The Carolina Dog arrived back at the G6 only a little after noon. Time to head for Yukon Territory! Lupe and SPHP proceeded N on Taylor Highway No. 5.
The road was paved most of the time until Lupe got within 20 miles or so of Chicken. Then Taylor “Highway” No. 5 turned to rather rough gravel. Since Chicken was the last metropolis Lupe would visit in Alaska, SPHP stopped for fuel.
Lupe eagerly inspected the chickens in Chicken. Disappointingly, though gigantic, they didn’t look or sniff tasty at all. The enormous tasteless chickens appeared to be confined as suspects at a crime scene, judging by the yellow plastic tape encircling them.
Loopster arrives in Chicken, the last Alaskan metropolis she would visit in 2017.Why the chickens were cordoned off in Chicken wasn’t clear, but Lupe joined them briefly. If these giant chickens hadn’t seemed so tasteless and bland, quite a ruckus might have ensued, though Lupe insisted to SPHP that 3 giant chickens were no match for a lone American Dingo.
Beyond Chicken, Taylor Highway No. 5 remained rough gravel. The road eventually started climbing steadily, reaching quite a height by the time the turn to Eagle appeared. Here, Lupe and SPHP left Taylor Highway No. 5 on a beautiful newly paved road. This road wound around high up on ridges for 12 miles, the rest of the way to customs at the Canadian border. Lupe crossed into Yukon Territory about 3:15 PM.
On the Canadian side, Lupe was now on the Top of the World Highway, a gravel road which goes 65 miles to the Yukon River at Dawson City.
After crossing the border into Canada, SPHP parked on a hill where Lupe could look back at the border crossing (blue buildings on the L). Photo looks NW.On a hill just N of the top of the Top of the World Highway, Lupe found this massive cairn with a view of customs where she had just left Alaska to enter the Yukon. Photo looks NW.Looking WNW from the same cairn.Some miles into Canada, this sign was posted about the Top of the World Highway that Lupe was taking to Dawson City.
The Top of the World Highway was all gravel, and a bit rough for the G6 in spots, but was in good overall condition. Most of the way to Dawson City, it wound along a series of high ridges. Lupe was farther N in the Yukon Territory than she had ever been before. This was an area of rounded mountains and ridges separated by deep valleys.
SPHP drove slowly, both for the sake of the G6, and to enjoy the remote scenery. Every now and then, it was time to let Lupe out to stretch, and take an even more leisurely look at particularly beautiful sights.
From the Top of the World Highway, Lupe saw many mountains that looked easy to climb. SPHP didn’t know any way to get close enough to make such aspirations feasible.The Top of the World Highway stayed high on a series of long ridges. Lupe had lovely Yukon Territory views along virtually the entire route to Dawson City.Enticing distant mountains with help from the telephoto lens.Nearby hills and ridges were separated by deep valleys.The vivid colors seen on the hillsides this time of year were incredible!
The Top of the World Highway finally began coming down off the ridges as Lupe neared Dawson City. The highway ended on the W bank of the Yukon River. No bridge exists across the river here. Lupe would have to take the ferry to get over to Dawson City.
Fortunately, although the ferry would cease its 2017 operations later this month, it was still busy taking vehicles back and forth across the river this evening. Several other vehicles were in line, so there would be a bit of a wait. Lupe went down to the Yukon River for a look around.
Loop reaches the E end of the Top of the World Highway at the Yukon River. Dawson City is on the far bank. Photo looks SE.What! No bridge? Lupe would have to take the ferry to get over to Dawson City.Looking upstream (S).This ferry is the only way for vehicles to cross the Yukon River at Dawson City. There was a bit of a wait for a turn, but no charge for taking the ferry.Looking downstream before crossing the Yukon River. Photo looks NE.
Lupe enjoyed the ferry ride across the Yukon River. The Carolina Dog had never traveled by ferry before. The ferry was tame compared to the water taxi ride she’d taken from the Homer Spit across Kachemak Bay to climb Grace Ridge back in 2016.
Upon reaching the E bank, SPHP drove into Dawson City and parked. When Lupe got out of the G6, she wanted to go right back down to the Yukon River to see how things looked from this side.
Looking downstream (N) from the Dawson City side of the Yukon River. The ferry is in sight on the R.
Satisfied that the river looked quite similar from this bank, Lupe next visited the nearby SS Keno, a sternwheel paddle steamer preserved here in Dawson City for its historic significance.
Lupe visits the SS Keno in Dawson City.
Dawson City reminded SPHP of Skagway on a smaller scale. It was full of historic old buildings, shops, and restaurants. People were around, but it was already September. Overall, things were fairly quiet. Lupe dropped by the General Store, but it was closed.
The Dawson City General Store was closed when Lupe dropped by. Too bad! The fresh meats they were promoting sounded good to the American Dingo.
Dawson City must boast a gas station somewhere, but SPHP couldn’t find it. A driving tour of Dawson’s main streets didn’t turn one up. Hmm. About sundown, Lupe and SPHP left town heading E on the Klondike Highway. Expensive fuel was available at the intersection with the Dempster Highway. SPHP couldn’t afford to be too picky.
After fueling up, Lupe and SPHP set off on the Dempster Highway. Right away, Lupe crossed a bridge over the Klondike River. She made it only another 20 kilometers before the fading light signified that it was time to call it a day. Better get rested up! Tomorrow the American Dingo’s adventures would take her into Tombstone Territorial Park.
Part 2 of Day 33 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
The drive out of the Kenai Peninsula was lovely, but frustrating. Due to uncooperative weather, Lupe was leaving most of the great adventures she’d had planned here undone. Yet SPHP sensed that maybe conditions were actually starting to improve? Even as the Carolina Dog rode in comfort through a series of rain showers, she could always see patches of blue sky out the window of the G6, too.
The decision had been made, though. Lupe was leaving the rainy Kenai Peninsula. Loopster had limited time left for adventures on this Dingo Vacation. SPHP wasn’t willing to hang around the S Alaska coast any longer on no more than mere hope for a sunny day. No matter where Lupe had gone, she had faced rain virtually every day in Alaska. Seemingly bright prospects had been dashed too many times already.
After exiting the Kenai Peninsula, the drive along the Turnagain Arm was spectacularly beautiful. Rays of sunlight streamed dramatically through holes in the cloud cover to illuminate the sea. However, it was raining again by the time Lupe reached Anchorage.
Beyond Anchorage, the rain ended. The pavement on Glen Highway No. 1 was actually dry. Lupe was only going as far as Palmer this evening, and would arrive with several hours of daylight left. SPHP tried to think of something Loopster might be able to do in these few hours. Suddenly an answer sprang to mind. Why Bodenburg Butte(886 ft.), of course! It would be perfect!
SPHP took the exit for Old Glen Highway. A L turn onto Bodenburg Loop Road appeared 3 miles after crossing the bridge over the Knik River. 0.5 mile farther on the R was a gravel parking lot on the S side of Bodenburg Butte. A big, faded wooden sign confirmed that the American Dingo had arrived at the Bodenburg Butte trailhead.
0.5 mile W on Bodenburg Loop Road off Old Glen Highway SE of Palmer, this sign by a gravel parking lot confirmed that Lupe had reached the trailhead for Bodenburg Butte.
A wide, well-worn trail left the parking lot climbing aggressively through forest. Lupe and SPHP started up. (7:15 PM, 52°F) At this rate of climb, it wasn’t going to take long to gain the 770 feet of elevation necessary to reach the top.
Situated several miles SE of Palmer, Bodenburg Butte is a lone hill on otherwise flat ground near the junction of two broad river valleys. A few miles to the SW is the convoluted confluence of the Matanuska and Knik rivers. Bodenburg Butte is a mere bump compared to peaks of the nearby Chugach and Talkeetna Mountains, but was expected to provide Lupe some great views of the two rivers, surrounding mountains, and perhaps even the Knik Arm of the North Pacific Ocean off Cook Inlet.
The trail remained quite steep nearly the entire way. Bodenburg Butte is a locally popular hike. While pausing to catch breath, SPHP visited briefly with several people on their way down. When Lupe was more than halfway to the top, she emerged from the forest. The trail became braided here, offering Looper several paths to choose from. Which path she took hardly mattered. They were all going to the same place.
At the top of Bodenburg Butte, Lupe found a ridge of solid rock. This summit ridge looked like it had been scoured by glaciers once upon a time. In fact, Loop could still see the toe of the likely culprit to the SE.
Lupe reaches the summit of Bodenburg Butte. Photo looks W.Looking up the Knik River valley. The toe of the Knik Glacier (Center) is seen at the far end of the valley. Photo looks SE.Lupe checks out the view of the Knik River valley from Bodenburg Butte.Zoomed in on the toe of the Knik Glacier.
Lupe instantly saw why the hike up Bodenburg Butte is popular. For the amount of effort expended to get to the summit, the visual rewards were fantastic. Looper had splendid views in all directions!
Lupe had splendid 360° views from Bodenburg Butte. The Matanuska River is seen below on the L. Photo looks W.
Wearing a wispy veil of clouds, Pioneer Peak(6,396 ft.) in the Western Chugach Mountains was the closest high peak. Between Bodenburg Butte and Pioneer Peak, Lupe gazed down upon forests and green fields in the Knik River valley.
Pioneer Peak (L) beyond the forests and green fields of the Knik River valley. Photo looks S.Loop on Bodenburg Butte with Pioneer Peak wearing a wispy veil of clouds beyond her. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.
Farther up the Knik River valley, Lupe saw what SPHP presumed were Hale-Bopp Peak(5,800 ft.) and Big Timber Peak(6,772 ft.).
SPHP believes the bare peak seen straight up from Lupe’s head is Hale-Bopp Peak. The higher white peak just to the R of Hale-Bopp is likely Big Timber Peak. The Knik River and toe of the Knik Glacier are on the L. Photo looks SE.Another look with help from the telephoto lens. Hale-Bopp Peak is the bare peak on the L. The first white peak to the R of Hale-Bopp is Big Timber Peak. The even higher white mountain at Center is Devils Club Peak (7,240 ft.).
To the W, the Matanuska River was in view. The Matanuska flows SW to join the Knik River shortly before reaching the Knik Arm of the North Pacific Ocean off Cook Inlet. The confluence of the two rivers was difficult to pick out, but Lupe could clearly see the Knik Arm.
Looking W toward the Matanuska River.Another look at the Matanuska River with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks W.The Matanuska River (R) flows SW towards its confluence with the Knik River (L). The combined river then flows into the Knik Arm of the North Pacific Ocean (far R). Photo looks SW.Another look with help from the telephoto lens. The Matanuska River is seen in the foreground, with the Knik Arm (L) beyond it. Photo looks SW.
Lupe could see the Talkeetna Mountains to the N and NW, where she had recently climbed Hatch Benchmark(4,811 ft.) and taken the Reed Lakes trail to Lynx Peak(6,536 ft.). The sky was quite cloudy in that direction, so the Talkeetnas didn’t show up as well this evening as the closer Chugach Mountains to the E.
Plumley Road (R) heads E from its intersection with Old Glen Highway toward the Chugach Mountains. Photo looks E.
The top of Bodenburg Butte included a fairly large area. Although Lupe had met people coming down on her way up, no one else was on top of Bodenburg Butte when Lupe arrived. An empty bench sat near a trail a little W of the true summit.
The top of Bodenburg Butte from the summit. A bench is seen beyond Lupe. Photo looks WNW.
The sun hadn’t set quite yet, but the sky was cloudy enough so the light was already beginning to fade. The trail to the bench continued W beyond it, and apparently went down from over there.
Lupe lingers at the summit of Bodenburg Butte. With all the clouds around, the light was already fading. Soon it would be time to go. Photo looks W.
Why not try an alternate route down? When Lupe and SPHP were done enjoying the views, the Carolina Dog proceeded over to the bench to see if the trail really did go down the W side of Bodenburg Butte from here?
Looking back at the true summit from the trail W of the bench. Photo looks ESE.
It did! In fact, the trail going down the W side of Bodenburg Butte was far better than the steep route Lupe had taken up from the S. The W route had steps where the trail was steepest and a cable railing. This was going to be easy!
The trail down the W side of Bodenburg Butte was far more developed than the steep dirt path Lupe had taken up the S side.
SPHP expected the W trail to loop back toward the S. It didn’t. Instead, it eventually turned N. The American Dingo arrived at a 2nd trailhead N of Bodenburg Butte. This one had a much larger parking lot.
Map of the W trail up Bodenburg Butte posted at the N trailhead. Directions on this map are reversed. N is down, and W is R.
Lupe had made it down, but was now on the wrong side of Bodenburg Butte. She had to follow roads circling around the E side of the butte to get back to the S trailhead. This added more than 2 miles to the return trip, making it a far longer loop than SPHP had envisioned. It was dark when Lupe finally arrived at the G6. (10:31 PM, 51°F)
Other than the assistant manager, who was in the process of getting ready to close, no one else was at Subway in Palmer when SPHP showed up at 10:55 PM. SPHP purchased a footlong sandwich, and was about to leave when the assistant manager offered SPHP unsold cookies that were about to be thrown out. For free! The price was certainly right. Sure, why not?
To Loopster’s delight, SPHP returned with a dozen large cookies. The Carolina Dog’s evening ended with an unexpected Subway cookie feast. A different kind of adventure, but a delicious one!
