Days 8 & 9 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
7-30-29, 7:30 AM, 59ºF, S Klondike Hwy No. 2, 4.5 miles S of Canadian Customs –
Not too bad, but it’s kind of smoky. Are we still going to do this, SPHP?
Disappointing, I know, Loopster. Really wish we had a super clear day for Taiya Peak (6,844 ft.), but it’s been on your list of possibilities for years. How many more chances are we ever going to get at it this far from home?
So, it’s a go, SPHP?
Might be now or never, Loop, so yes. Onward! Puppy, ho!
Her lofty objective already in sight, Lupe crossed the highway near the Summit Creek sign, then headed N across a rumpled region of bedrock, low bushes, scattered stunted evergreens, and tundra.
Progress was excellent on this relatively easy terrain. Within just a few minutes, the American Dingo reached a small tarn.
See those 2 mountains we’re heading for, Looper?
Of course. What about them? We don’t have to go clear over there do we?
Heavens no! We only need to get up onto that lower ridge in front of them, Loopster, before turning toward Taiya Peak. However, that mountain on the L is Peak 1769m, and the one on the R is Fraser Peak (5,978 ft.).
Oh, I remember Fraser Peak, SPHP! The views were spectacular! That’s where we first got a good look at Taiya Peak, isn’t it?
That’s right, Loop. I knew you’d remember.
After passing the tarn, Lupe found her way over to Summit Creek’s rocky exposed floodplain. The trek N along the E side of the beautiful stream was easy and fun, but didn’t last long. The stream soon meandered over to the E side of the channel, forcing the Carolina Dog up onto a parallel wall of rock 20 feet higher.
Lupe was once again up on the tundra traveling over rumpled terrain when Summit Creek suddenly made a sharp turn NW away from the wall of rock, causing a search for a way to scramble back down next to the creek. Another short trek on the floodplain ensued before the stream forced Lupe back up onto an 8 foot high bank.
Up on the bank, a level plain completely overgrown with willows waist to chest high on SPHP extended a good 250 meters N. Lupe couldn’t see a thing as she followed SPHP bushwhacking slowly through the willow thicket by whatever route seemed easiest. The situation didn’t improve much upon reaching a dense forest of evergreens on higher ground.
Heading NW toward the big ridge leading to Taiya Peak, Lupe managed to get high enough to break out of the trees onto a tundra slope, which made progress much easier. However, the tundra quickly led up to the top of a hill with a cliff edge and a big tarn below it blocking any further progress W.
Down and around, SPHP?
No other choice, Loopster.
The hill Lupe was on wasn’t that big, so it didn’t take long to retreat NE down into a little valley, then climb up onto a reasonably flat stretch of tundra. However, quite a bit of forest was still ahead on the lower slopes of the ridge Lupe was trying to get to, and the terrain was fairly rugged with sudden drops and near vertical climbs.
Staying on tundra whenever possible, Lupe had to venture quite a long way N before turning WNW seemed feasible. Even then, progress was often extremely slow trying to force a way up some of the steep, densely forested slopes. However, Lupe finally managed to get up above most of the trees to a flat spot with a view looking back toward Summit Lake near S Klondike Hwy No. 2.
Amazing territory was now ahead. As the remaining trees thinned out, Lupe easily avoided them. Climbing WNW, Lupe explored a maze of bedrock benches, ramps, small streams, and hidden tarns. For a long way, it was possible to look back and still see the RAV4 as a bright blue dot parked in front of Summit Lake down by S. Klondike Hwy No. 2.
The higher the American Dingo went, the rockier the world became.
7-30-23, 9:16 AM – Although the angle of incline was diminishing, Lupe never seemed to get to the top of the ridge she was climbing. However, upon reaching a giant boulder sitting on the bedrock that dominated the landscape, the top of Taiya Peak was back in view for the first time in a while now.
Continuing gradually higher beyond this boulder, more of Taiya Peak kept coming into sight. Lupe crossed many long gashes in the bedrock oriented perpendicular to her route, descending into each one before having to regain all her lost elevation and more climbing out again. Sometimes small streams were in these gashes, or even a bit of snow.
To the SW, the sharp pinnacle of Feather Peak (5,889 ft.) came into view with Mount Cleveland (6,362 ft.), Mount Carmack (6,808 ft.) and many other peaks grouped beyond it. Much closer, Peak 6053, which Lupe had climbed nearly 5 years ago, appeared toward the WSW.
The scenery was incredible and exploring this amazing territory was enormous fun. Fortunately, the Luck of the Dingo was excellent. Lupe usually reached the gashes she came to near breaks in the cliff walls along each side, which made it relatively easy to scramble down into them and back out again.
Closing in on Taiya Peak, the gashes increased in size. Near the end, the Carolina Dog came to 3 gashes that were particularly big, with lines of cliffs along their borders ranging from 20 to 50 feet high. One of these gashes was much wider than any of the others and full of vegetation.
Near the base of Taiya Peak, the roar of water could be heard ahead. Lupe soon reached the edge of a final gash containing a much larger stream than any other the others she’d come to tumbling steeply down this narrow ravine.
Crossing the stream and its powerful flow in this deep ravine appeared treacherous. Happily, the upper end of the gash was only a little farther upstream. Turning N, Lupe went far enough to get above the spot where the stream plunged into the gash in a line of waterfalls along the W edge.
Above this spot the gap was non-existent and the stream was shallow, all spread out in a beautiful green oasis of tundra and wildflowers. Off in the distance to the NW, a long waterfall cascaded off a ridge into a wide bowl still hidden above.
Wouldn’t it be fun to explore upstream all the way to that big waterfall, SPHP? We could even climb that ridge and see what’s beyond it, too!
Yes, of course! That would be fantastic, Loop, but I’m afraid we can’t do that, if we ever intend to make it to the top of Taiya Peak.
After a short, wistful break by the lovely stream spent contemplating that enticing bowl to the NW, Lupe waded across. The American Dingo then followed the stream back down to the waterfalls where it plunged into the gap. There she turned WSW, abandoning this beautiful region to start up the rocky slopes forming the base of Taiya Peak.
As the terrain steadily steepened, SPHP frequently paused to gasp for air. At first, Lupe still came to spots with a fair amount of greenery where she could relax on the soft vegetation while SPHP took short breathers. However, these patches of tundra became increasingly rare.
The mountain soon became quite an aggressive climb. The American Dingo scrambled up steep walls of talus. Fortunately, they often led to much flatter benches where usually another stretch of somewhat easier terrain existed above before an assault on the next wall would have to begin. As she gained elevation, Lupe’s winding WSW course gradually turned NW.
Having read online that it was important to stay S of an E ridge, which seemed poorly defined in the field, SPHP encouraged the Carolina Dog to take advantage of every opportunity to angle SW, but the terrain rarely cooperated.
The benches and ledges Lupe reached were becoming narrower and less frequent. SPHP’s progress on the steep talus was painfully slow. The talus walls extended higher and higher, becoming so steep that whether or not this ascent could possibly be successful was continually in doubt.
Ever fewer and more difficult routes kept appearing above. Although Lupe displayed great scrambling ability, she began coming to places where SPHP had to give her a boost. Tiring, longer rest breaks were in order every time the American Dingo managed to reach one of the wider, safer ledges.
After gaining many hundreds of feet, Lupe came to a talus slope that wasn’t as steep. Climbing NW, she reached a long snowbank she was able to follow WSW. Above it, another steep talus slope finally led to a big level bench of gritty tan soil. Taking another break here, the views were tremendous.
Looking E, Summit Lake was in sight down in the Tormented Valley. Lupe could see Summit Creek flowing into it, and the mighty range of unfamiliar mountains E of the valley. Looking SW, Lupe was already clearly higher than both Feather Peak (5,889 ft.) and Peak 6053.
Wow, what a climb! Can’t go on like this much longer, can it, SPHP?
No, it can’t. According to the topo map, it ought to be getting noticeably easier any time now, Loopster. Not sure how accurate our GPS track is, but it says we’re already at 6,275 feet. If true, that puts us within less than 600 feet of the summit elevation-wise.
Continuing on, Lupe skirted WSW along the base of the 20 foot wall next to the ledge before reaching a place where she could climb above it. 60 feet higher, a magnificent sight appeared. To the NW, a long talus slope stretched toward what appeared to be Taiya Peak’s summit.
It was a moment of great joy.
Hah! Got’er made, Looper! We’re going to make it!
Still a trudge, but the angle of ascent was much easier now. While SPHP hoped nothing too funky laid beyond what could be seen of the summit region, Lupe steadily closed the gap, alternately trotting over patches of the gritty tan soil or rock-hopping her way higher.
7-30-23, 3:46 PM, 68ºF, Taiya Peak (6,844 feet) – 50 feet from the SE end of a 200 foot long summit ridge, Lupe stood next to a cairn by the true summit with a grin on her face. Beyond her, the sky was disappointingly gray with smoke bad enough to seriously mar the views, but it could have been worse.
Almost due S, Mount Carmack (6,808 ft.), Feather Peak (5,889 ft.), and Mount Cleveland (6,362 ft.) were all still readily discernable despite the smoke. It was incredible to think that Lupe was now higher than all of them. Felt even stranger looking down on Peak 6053 less than 2 miles SW, a magnificent peak in its own right practically on the border with Alaska, where the Carolina Dog had stood proudly nearly 5 years ago, gazing up at mighty Taiya Peak.
As cherished as those views were, and as splendid as the sights were in all directions, in truth, it was the views to the W that had inspired this entire journey. Beyond the unseen depths of the giant Taiya River valley, where prospectors had once struggled against forbidding elements up the famous Chilkoot Trail from Dyea to the Yukon gold fields, a sea of glacier-clad peaks extended beyond vision.
Alaska! Forbidding, vast, remote, and frigidly white as in one’s wildest dreams. No one had ever stood on most of those unnamed peaks. It was like looking 20,000 years back into an ancient, long forgotten ice age.
SPHP seized the American Dingo’s outstretched paw, and shook it most enthusiastically.
Congratulations, Lupe! 12.5 years old, and you made it all this way! I can’t believe it. I never thought we’d see this scene again, sweet puppy.
What? Of course, I made it! A remark like that is going to cost you every chocolate coconut bar in that pack, SPHP.
This was, in fact, the 4th time the Carolina Dog had seen this stunning view into Alaska, each time from a different vantage point. Lupe had first gazed up at Mount Hoffman (6,079 ft.) from a ridge at the far W end of the International Falls Trail in 2017. The very next day she saw Peak 8239, the Skagway High Point, from Fraser Peak, and then again from Peak 6053 a year later.
However, Lupe had never enjoyed this scene from a perch as lofty as the one she now had on Taiya Peak before. Only the wretched smoke and weariness dampened the soaring mood of the occasion. Conditions were otherwise perfect – an incredible 68ºF with a lazy 5 mph SW breeze.
No vegetation at all existed up here, so Lupe had no comfortable spot to rest. However, immediately N of the cairn, the rock it sat on had a flat spot big enough to accommodate her. After an initial look at the views, SPHP used a jacket, a pullover, and another layer of clothing to make a bed for her there.
Lupe got her half-melted chocolate coconut bar reward, splitting it with SPHP. She then got to lick off the soft chocolate sticking to the wrapper, which she did with great enthusiasm, followed by plenty of water for all, and Taste of the Wild for Lupe. Satisfied, the Carolina Dog put her head down on SPHP’s jacket and snoozed.
For a while, SPHP gazed alone upon the splendors in all directions, but after a short nap, Lupe was awake, too, although not at all inclined to move from her comfy spot. SPHP sat next to her, stroking Lupe’s soft fur, and praising her for coming all this way.
7-30-23, 4:40 PM, Taiya Peak –
Your traditional summit hour is almost over, Looper.
We can’t leave yet, SPHP! Let’s have a more thorough look around first!
Fully intend to, Loop. We’re certainly in no rush to leave this awesome peak. Other than the dang smoke, it couldn’t be a more perfect day.
Finally getting up after this assurance, Lupe was ready for a leisurely summit tour. She began by making the 50 foot stroll over to the SW end of the summit ridge. At this end, the ridge was only about 15 feet wide, and the large rocks were encased in black lichens.
Naturally, the best views of the Feather Peak group and Peak 6053 were from here. Lupe also peered down on a glacier covering a significant portion of the region between Peak 6053 and Taiya Peak.
Next, returning to the cairn, Lupe had a look at Summit Lake. If she’d had a pair of Dingo binoculars, she might have seen the RAV4 parked down along S Klondike Hwy No. 2.
The summit ridge extended another 150 feet NE from the cairn. The ridge broadened out to 50 feet wide in this direction, and consisted of much lighter-colored scree bearing few of the black lichens.
Going out close to the far end, Peak 1769m, Fraser Peak (5,978 ft.), and Log Cabin Mountain (5,633 ft.) were all lined up to the NE. Part of Bryant Lake was in sight next to Fraser Peak, and in the distance, both the N end of Lindeman Lake and S end of Bennett Lake were in view.
From this end of the summit ridge, it was also possible to look down on the large glacier clinging to the N side of Taiya Peak. While most of the glistening white snow and ice appeared soft and gently rounded, several large crevasses were in sight, too.
Lupe occasionally returned briefly to her comfortable perch by the cairn as SPHP repeatedly wandered back and forth along the entire length of the summit ridge trying to take it all in, but usually she went right along with SPHP, staring out at the same incredible views.
7-30-23, 5:29 PM, Taiya Peak (6,844 ft.) – Alas, most of a second hour had already flown! 1.75 hours after arriving, Lupe stood next to the cairn for the last time, her front paws resting on the highest naturally placed rock.
Before entirely abandoning the summit region, Lupe returned to the SW end of the summit ridge one last time. A bit below it, she found a perch where that glorious view W into glacier-clad Alaska beckoned beyond.
Looks like the mountains go on forever, doesn’t it, SPHP?
Yes, it does, sweet puppy! If only we could, too.
The magnificent fleeting moment passed. It was a long way back. The incredible, cherished scene vanished as soon as Lupe left her perch to head back down the mountain.
The iPhone battery was down to 22% by the time the Carolina Dog left the summit region, so SPHP had to use it sparingly during the return. Never a good scrambler, it took SPHP hours to carefully pick a way down the mountain’s steep talus. Lupe was forever waiting. She headed down staying farther S than during her ascent, but with no discernable benefit.
For a long way, a gigantic boulder cracked in half was visible far below. Even SPHP finally got down pretty close to it before turning NE to head for the large beautiful stream. Water supplies had run out on the way down the mountain, and the sun had set by the time Lupe reached the stream again. She drank deeply from it, and from every trickle and tarn thereafter.
Twilight lingered. In fading light on easier terrain again, SPHP hurried on. Weary, Lupe wanted to be done, and many short breaks were taken on a bit of soft tundra here or there. Although also exhausted, SPHP kept urging the American Dingo on, wanting to take as much advantage of what fading light there was as possible.
It never got completely dark. A glow was always visible in the N. Even so, the flashlight eventually had to come out. Lupe’s ascent route had been fairly efficient, and every time SPHP checked the iPhone, she was never far from her GPS track, yet nothing looked familiar in the gloom. Every minor high point revealed only another steep, black drop ahead.
The Carolina Dog kept reaching the biggest gashes at bad spots, forcing searches for practical routes down into them and back out again. Lupe seemed forced into one boulder field after another.
Fortunately, the night was extraordinarily mild. Eventually fog could be seen drifting N from White Pass, a gray ghost spreading gradually across the dark land.
The first trees appeared roughly 2 km from S Klondike Hwy No. 2. Lupe had been desperately begging SPHP to stop. Dreading the dense forest and willows that lay ahead in the night, SPHP finally relented.
Finding a soft patch of tundra, SPHP shared a chocolate mint Cliff bar with Lupe, last of the supplies other than a few peanuts. Layering up, SPHP then wrapped a jacket around the grateful American Dingo, and pulled her close. Lupe immediately put her head down and closed her eyes. It was 1:00 AM.
7-31-23, 4:30 AM, 3,300 feet – Really wasn’t all that cold out, but SPHP’s teeth chattered nevertheless.
Loopster, can you move? My left arm’s numb under you.
Seems a little lighter out, SPHP. I’m feeling better. Want to keep going?
SPHP turned on the flashlight.
Criminy! We’re in the fog, Loop. Can’t see much of anything, but maybe we should go? Might start to rain.
As it turned out, Lupe really wasn’t that close to the forest yet, and still had a fair amount of elevation to lose. Progress continued to be slow, but was better than last night. Eventually it was light enough to turn off the flashlight, and possible to see some distance through the fog.
Greatly revived by her 3.5 hour snooze, Lupe no longer complained, but led the way. Staying farther N than during her ascent as she headed E, the Carolina Dog managed to avoid most of the steep descent through dense forest. She had to go down some equally steep boulder fields, but that was actually easier.
Upon reaching the forest and turning S, Lupe enjoyed considerable luck on this route, usually finding open lanes of grass and tundra through the evergreens, while passing tarns she’d never seen before along the way.
The American Dingo eventually came to the willows where Summit Creek could be heard rushing downstream ahead. Even here Lupe led the way, bounding through the jungle without being able to see a thing. Only the quivering of the willows she disturbed revealed her location.
Soon the roar coming from Summit Creek indicated that it wasn’t much farther. SPHP yelled.
Careful, Loopster! The bank is a vertical drop!
It was, too. SPHP caught up with Lupe again among the willows along the edge. Summit Creek was right there, hugging this bank, an 8-10 foot vertical drop from the willow thicket that extended right to the brink.
Perhaps as eager to get to the RAV4 as SPHP was, the Carolina Dog took off again, forging ahead, charging blindly this way and that through the endless willows. Soon she was racing straight for Summit Creek again. SPHP yelled twice.
Loop! Stop! STOP! You’ll fall in!
A moment later, a splash.
OMG! Loopster!
Summit Creek was deep where Lupe fell, the current swift and icy cold. From the edge of the willows, SPHP looked anxiously downstream. Suddenly, well ahead, there was Lupe, shaking herself off on exposed streambed where Summit Creek had veered away from the near bank. She appeared to be fine.
Hurrying as much as possible, SPHP surged through the willows, losing sight of the American Dingo in the process.
Loop! Loop!
Minutes ticked away. Nothing. SPHP kept going, calling her name. No sign of her the next time SPHP caught a glimpse of the streambed. Where was she?
Suddenly, here came Lupe, charging straight toward SPHP from behind. Soaking wet from head to tail, she’d been searching for SPHP, too.
Oh, Lupe, don’t scare me like that! Are you OK? Did you get hurt?
Cold and sopping wet, but thankfully, no damage done.
7-31-23, 6:47 AM, 55ºF, S. Klondike Hwy No. 2 – Less than 15 minutes later, Lupe’s grand and glorious Taiya Peak adventure was over, more than 23 hours after it had begun. Lupe leapt up onto her pink blanket in the RAV4 and began vigorously licking herself dry, while SPHP wearily stashed the gear. It was still foggy and cool out, and no one was around. For 45 minutes, the highway was deserted. Not a single vehicle went by.
A couple of semis finally whizzed past just before SPHP pulled the RAV4 onto the highway, heading N. By then Lupe had eaten and was ready to snooze. Driving barepaw with the heater on high to dry out soaking wet boots and socks on the floorboard, SPHP downed a strawberry Equate, feeling surprisingly alert.
7-31-23, 9:37 AM – That feeling of alertness didn’t last long. Shortly after passing Carcross, a tremendous all-pervasive drowsiness set in. Pulling into the Robinson Roadhouse rest area near Mount Lorne, SPHP joined Lupe in her slumber.
A few hours later, Lupe was on her way again.
Taiya Peak was awesome, SPHP! What’s next? You won’t hurt my feelings if it’s something a little less ambitious.
We’re on our way to Whitehorse, Loop. We can pick up supplies, fuel up, then hang out there the rest of the day. Tomorrow, we’ll head N to the Dempster Highway, and start the journey to Tuktoyaktuk.
Tuktoyaktuk, Land of the Pingos, on the Arctic Ocean, SPHP?
Yup. And you can bet on plenty of adventures along the way, Sweet Puppy!
And so it was. After getting to Whitehorse, Lupe hung out in the RAV4 while SPHP ran around doing the supplies thing, then joined her in long naps after sharing a roasted chicken. The day’s activities ended with an evening stroll along the fabled Yukon River, and the promise of more terrific adventures ahead.
However, what those adventures might consist of was far from certain. On the way into town, a lighted sign over the Alaska Highway had warned of wildfires and road closures along the Dempster Highway.
Links:
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
On and Off the International Falls Trail to Peak 6053, British Columbia, Canada (9-11-18)
Fraser Peak, British Columbia, Canada (8-9-17)
International Falls, Canada to Alaska (8-8-17)
Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.
