Days 34 & 35 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
9-2-17, 9:30 AM – Overslept! Good grief. For once it hadn’t rained at all overnight. Most of the morning sky was blue. Maybe the weather really was improving? Easy to get fooled in Alaska, though. SPHP was far from certain it wouldn’t rain later in the day. Should Lupe stick around Palmer, or not? SPHP pondered the question while buying supplies at the new Fred Meyer store.
11:02 AM, 50°F – No, Lupe wasn’t going to stay. The day was already looking hazier than “early” on. The Carolina Dog was going to leave Palmer seeking more reliable skies elsewhere. September was here. Maybe she would find fairer weather in the Yukon? Her time in glorious Alaska was about up. Sad, but true. Lupe stared out the window of the G6, as SPHP drove out of Palmer on Glen Highway No. 1.
The day was spent traveling. SPHP made a number of stops along the way so Loop could stretch her legs, and spend a few minutes appreciating the beauty of Alaska.
After fueling the G6 in Tok (5:43 PM, 58°F), SPHP drove ESE on the Alaska Highway. A dozen miles later, Lupe crossed the bridge over the Tanana River. A couple of miles beyond the river, SPHP left the Alaska Highway turning N on Taylor Highway No. 5 at Tetlin Junction.
The persistent sense of sadness over being on the way out of Alaska that SPHP had felt ever since leaving Palmer disappeared immediately. Lupe had never been this way before! This was all new territory to explore. Suddenly the evening possessed an air of excitement and discovery.
Lupe was no longer near jagged or massive Alaskan peaks of the sort she had been seeing most of the afternoon. Even so, Taylor Highway No. 5 was an interesting and beautiful drive. The highway was paved, had virtually no traffic, and wound its way N through rounded hills and ridges of stunted, spindly forests.
After 15 miles or so, from a high point, Lupe caught sight of something exciting! Still far to the NNE, an impressive hill stood alone, clearly much higher than anything else around. SPHP parked the G6 at a large pullout, so Lupe could get out for a better look at it.
The mysterious towering hill was a mountain, really, yet it was gently rounded, not jagged. Why, Lupe could climb that peak easily enough! Immediately, the desire to see Loopster reach the top of the mighty hill seized SPHP. If the Taylor Highway would bring the American Dingo close enough to it to make an attempt possible, Lupe was going to try it!
Continuing on, Taylor Highway No. 5 did wend its way ever closer to the mysterious hill! Before long, it became apparent the highway was going to pass along the lower W slopes of the mountain. As Lupe drew near, SPHP parked at a pullout on the hill’s long SW ridge. The summit was still some miles away.
It was far too late in the day to consider an ascent now. Lupe and SPHP started up the SW ridge, anyway. The Carolina Dog wasn’t going far. SPHP just wanted to see what the terrain was like, and what sort of obstacles Loop might encounter.
Lupe climbed for only 8 or 9 minutes, sniffing and exploring a forest of spindly, dead trees. The trees were thin and small, and hadn’t amounted to much even when alive. The ground was spongy tundra, but fairly dry. A few rocks, a little deadfall, a moderately steep slope. That was about it for obstacles. SPHP was certain Lupe could climb this hill.
Lupe’s initial exploration was encouraging! Returning to the G6, SPHP drove farther N on Taylor Highway No. 5 looking for the closest point from which Loop could begin an ascent tomorrow morning. The road was about as high on the mountain as it was going to get at about milepost 32.9. SPHP again parked the G6 at a nearby pullout.
Looper made a second exploratory excursion up the slope overlooking the highway. The top of the mountain was in view another 2,000 feet higher. A nearby band of live trees and high bushes appeared to be the only significant obstacle. Lupe ought to be able to get through that easily enough.
The tundra colors were striking in the evening light. Lupe and SPHP stood admiring the beauty of the mountainside, and the amazing views of E Alaska.
A roasted chicken SPHP had bought this morning back in Palmer served as dinner in the G6. Loop enjoyed the chicken feast, then spent the last hour of the evening sniffing excitedly in the jungle of tall bushes by the pullout where the G6 was parked. Meanwhile, SPHP gathered up trash careless travelers had strewn about.
The sky was 90% clear as twilight began to fade. (9:21 PM) Hopes were high for a successful ascent in the morning. After dark, a 3/4 yellow moon rose over the mountain’s ridge.
9-3-17 – Lupe and SPHP woke hours later to see an orange moonset. It seemed very late. The Carolina Dog went out to sniff the air. For the first time in a month, the night sky was clear. Looper could see stars, but only the brightest ones. The night wasn’t very dark. Long stretches of the N sky were brighter than elsewhere. Was that the Northern Lights? The bright streaks didn’t seem to be moving or changing.
Satisfied with her sniffing, Lupe returned to the G6 to continue snoozing. SPHP wasn’t terribly sleepy, and sat watching the night sky off and on for a couple of hours. The bright patches of sky below the Big Dipper were indeed the Northern Lights. They changed only slowly, gradually, except for one 10 or 15 minute period when the lights did suddenly dance and flash.
Perhaps not a particularly good display of Northern Lights for Alaska, but the best SPHP had ever seen. Certainly worth seeing, too. Something primal about it, especially when observed here so alone, so remote in E Alaska with Lupe resting peacefully nearby.
6:21 AM, 33°F, clear, calm – Lupe and SPHP sat sharing English muffins and cheese for breakfast. The heater was on in the G6 to take the chill off. The sun wasn’t up yet, but it was light enough out. Loopster was in luck this morning! The weather had held. She would soon be on her way up the mysterious mountain.
7:04 AM, 33°F, clear, a light breeze – Loop was on her way! She climbed steadily. The band of trees and tall bushes slowed SPHP down, but Lupe was soon above it. She was up on a broad ridge which became increasingly rocky as she gained elevation, but for a long way there was spongy tundra. In many places, the tundra was wet or boggy. Nothing new about that. This area wasn’t particularly challenging compared to other places the American Dingo had been.
Above the trees and bushes, it was easy to see where to go. Lupe headed for a high saddle between the summit and a rocky prominence on the mountain’s S ridge. The only factor limiting her progress was how fast SPHP could manage to trudge up the long slope. Lupe had plenty of time to roam and explore as she pleased.
Although the sky was clear or covered only by high thin clouds, the air was hazy. Lupe could see a long way, but the distant views weren’t as clear and crisp as they might have been. Still, the American Dingo was fortunate to have as good a day as this one.
After a considerable climb, Lupe reached the high saddle she had been striving for S of the summit. The saddle was broad, fairly rocky, but also had a fair amount of tundra vegetation. Movement was still quite easy. Loop had only a few hundred feet of elevation gain left to reach the top of the mountain. It didn’t look like it would be hard to get there.
The climb to the mysterious mountain’s summit was cake. Even the rocky stretches near the top weren’t bad. The rocks were of moderate size. No problem picking a route up through them. Soon structures on top of the mountain that had been faintly visible from the highway were coming into view. Looper was almost there!
Lupe had done it! She arrived at the top of the mysterious mountain. The summit area was large and quite flat, longer N/S than E/W. Most of the summit was strewn with small to medium size dark colored rocks. A small ridge of dark rock close to the SE end of the summit area E of the first structures looked like the true summit. The diminutive ridge was only slightly higher than the rest of the summit.
Of course, Lupe went right on over to the true summit to claim her latest peakbagging success!
Lupe’s success in reaching the top of this mountain in E Alaska was very satisfying in several ways. When Lupe left home on this Dingo Vacation, SPHP had brought along a list of peakbagging possibilities and a few other activities she might find worthwhile.
Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.) N of the Brooks Range was the only other mountain Lupe had climbed that wasn’t on this premeditated list. The spontaneity of discovering this prominent peak only yesterday, then climbing it this morning without the aid of any roads, trails, or maps was really fun. Such an unexpected treat! SPHP didn’t even know what mountain Lupe was on.
Another cool thing was that this mountain felt so alone and remote. Yesterday evening, Lupe had climbed Bodenburg Butte (886 ft.) near Palmer. She’d had great views from there, but it really wasn’t much of a feat. The butte wasn’t all that high, and was frequently climbed being so close to Alaska’s major population centers. SPHP was glad this much higher and more remote peak was now destined to be the last mountain Lupe would climb in Alaska, instead of little Bodenburg Butte.
SPHP expressed such joy and enthusiasm over Lupe’s successful ascent, that Looper got into the spirit of it all, too. She began to think maybe she ought to re-enact the final moments of her trek to the top. After all, she had become the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood on this trip. Perhaps this moment ought to be preserved for posterity and the Arctic Sisterhood’s archives?
After the glorious re-enactment was complete, Lupe and SPHP wandered around exploring the summit. The most dramatic mountains Loopster could see from here were a line of high white ones far to the SW. They were so far away, the haze made them difficult to see very well without help from the camera’s telephoto lens.
Hills, ridges, and mountains as high as the one Lupe was on could be seen in most directions, but they were all many miles away. This lone mountain dominated a large area.
While exploring the summit, Lupe made a discovery that solved a key mystery. On a rock close to the N edge, she found a survey benchmark. The benchmark was stamped with the hitherto unknown name of the mountain she was on.
Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.)! SPHP had never heard of it before, but that was where Lupe was right now. An interesting name. SPHP wondered how the mountain came by it, and if this name had a particular meaning or story behind it?
For a while, Loopster and SPHP sat together at the N end of the summit area surveying the scenery from the last mountain the American Dingo would climb in Alaska, at least on this Dingo Vacation.
The survey benchmark Lupe had found was stamped No. 2. SPHP looked around for a No. 1, but didn’t have the same success Lupe did.
When Lupe had spent nearly an hour up on Mount Fairplay, it was time to think about moving on. The Carolina Dog would go back down using approximately the same route she came up. Before doing so, Loopster visited a big rock along the E edge of the summit area that appeared to be in contention for the title of true summit.
Lupe also returned to the true summit, which was nearby.
Precisely an hour after she arrived on top of Mount Fairplay, Lupe began her descent from the SW end of the summit area. The descent was fun and relaxing, with beautiful views all the way down. The mountain’s dark rocks contrasted with yellows, golds, and reds of the tundra.
The Carolina Dog was wild and free, roaming wherever she pleased. She returned frequently to check on SPHP before dashing off to explore new mysteries borne on the breeze. Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.) was Lupe’s last Alaskan adventure of 2017. She made the most of it, and had a wonderful time.
12:13 PM, 50°F – Mount Fairplay had been great fun, an excellent finale to Lupe’s 2017 adventures in Alaska! The Carolina Dog arrived back at the G6 only a little after noon. Time to head for Yukon Territory! Lupe and SPHP proceeded N on Taylor Highway No. 5.
The road was paved most of the time until Lupe got within 20 miles or so of Chicken. Then Taylor “Highway” No. 5 turned to rather rough gravel. Since Chicken was the last metropolis Lupe would visit in Alaska, SPHP stopped for fuel.
Lupe eagerly inspected the chickens in Chicken. Disappointingly, though gigantic, they didn’t look or sniff tasty at all. The enormous tasteless chickens appeared to be confined as suspects at a crime scene, judging by the yellow plastic tape encircling them.
Beyond Chicken, Taylor Highway No. 5 remained rough gravel. The road eventually started climbing steadily, reaching quite a height by the time the turn to Eagle appeared. Here, Lupe and SPHP left Taylor Highway No. 5 on a beautiful newly paved road. This road wound around high up on ridges for 12 miles, the rest of the way to customs at the Canadian border. Lupe crossed into Yukon Territory about 3:15 PM.
On the Canadian side, Lupe was now on the Top of the World Highway, a gravel road which goes 65 miles to the Yukon River at Dawson City.
The Top of the World Highway was all gravel, and a bit rough for the G6 in spots, but was in good overall condition. Most of the way to Dawson City, it wound along a series of high ridges. Lupe was farther N in the Yukon Territory than she had ever been before. This was an area of rounded mountains and ridges separated by deep valleys.
SPHP drove slowly, both for the sake of the G6, and to enjoy the remote scenery. Every now and then, it was time to let Lupe out to stretch, and take an even more leisurely look at particularly beautiful sights.
The Top of the World Highway finally began coming down off the ridges as Lupe neared Dawson City. The highway ended on the W bank of the Yukon River. No bridge exists across the river here. Lupe would have to take the ferry to get over to Dawson City.
Fortunately, although the ferry would cease its 2017 operations later this month, it was still busy taking vehicles back and forth across the river this evening. Several other vehicles were in line, so there would be a bit of a wait. Lupe went down to the Yukon River for a look around.
Lupe enjoyed the ferry ride across the Yukon River. The Carolina Dog had never traveled by ferry before. The ferry was tame compared to the water taxi ride she’d taken from the Homer Spit across Kachemak Bay to climb Grace Ridge back in 2016.
Upon reaching the E bank, SPHP drove into Dawson City and parked. When Lupe got out of the G6, she wanted to go right back down to the Yukon River to see how things looked from this side.
Satisfied that the river looked quite similar from this bank, Lupe next visited the nearby SS Keno, a sternwheel paddle steamer preserved here in Dawson City for its historic significance.
Dawson City reminded SPHP of Skagway on a smaller scale. It was full of historic old buildings, shops, and restaurants. People were around, but it was already September. Overall, things were fairly quiet. Lupe dropped by the General Store, but it was closed.
Dawson City must boast a gas station somewhere, but SPHP couldn’t find it. A driving tour of Dawson’s main streets didn’t turn one up. Hmm. About sundown, Lupe and SPHP left town heading E on the Klondike Highway. Expensive fuel was available at the intersection with the Dempster Highway. SPHP couldn’t afford to be too picky.
After fueling up, Lupe and SPHP set off on the Dempster Highway. Right away, Lupe crossed a bridge over the Klondike River. She made it only another 20 kilometers before the fading light signified that it was time to call it a day. Better get rested up! Tomorrow the American Dingo’s adventures would take her into Tombstone Territorial Park.
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Mount Fairplay near Chicken, Alaska (8-25-18)
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