Jasper National Park – Page 2 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Tangle Falls to Tangle Ridge, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-7-19)

Days 1-3 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-5-19, 8:10 AM, Black Hills, SD – Late, late, late! Days late, but the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was finally underway! Hitting I90, the G6 rapidly gathered speed. Thousands of miles to go. Time to make tracks! Lupe would have opportunities for adventures along the way, but she couldn’t dilly-dally too much. Summer ends early in the Arctic!

Bright-eyed and alert, the Carolina Dog was ready for action! Barking at cows, horses, suspicious haystacks and outbuildings would be about it, though, for a while. Stops were infrequent and brief as the G6 cruised N & W along a familiar route.

*Back in Wyoming! A sure sign of good times ahead!* At the Moorcroft, WY I90 rest area, Lupe’s first chance to stretch after setting out on a brand new Dingo Vacation.

5:30 PM, Kings Hill Pass, Little Belt Mountains, Montana – Skies had been crisp and clear all day, but the air was smokey at Kings Hill Pass. No matter! This was the day’s only real chance to get out and explore. Lupe wasn’t about to miss out! She had her choice of a relatively easy ascent of either Kings Hill (8,008 ft.) or Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.).

Kings Hill Pass is a favorite stop on the way to Canada, so Loopster had already been to both multiple times. It had been a couple of years since she’d been to Porphyry Peak. Why not? The road trek to the lookout tower at the summit was under 2 miles. Squirrels along the way were the highlight. Smoke from distant fires marred the views from the top.

8:28 PM, Hwy 89, Al Buck Memorial Park – Last stop of the day. Trees and picnic tables, plus a spring that gushed out of the base of a hillside. Lupe helped herself to a drink. After sniffing around a bit and a bite to eat, time to call it a night.

Getting refreshed at Al Buck Memorial Park N of the Little Belt Mountains.

8-6-19 – The next day was even less exciting. Mile after mile rolled by. Plenty of big fields, but hardly any cows or horses.

At 10:55 AM, Lupe went through Canadian customs, a snoozer of an event if ever there was one. A stop at a picnic ground N of Carmangay overlooking the sluggish Little Bow River was pleasant enough, but didn’t last long. Calgary was the usual traffic-clogged madhouse. Even the Canadian Rockies were a bit of a disappointment. Heavily overcast, drippy and cool, it felt like summer was already long gone.

By evening Lupe had made it to lovely Bow Lake in Banff National Park, departure point for several fabulous past adventures. However, the mood was subdued and forlorn.

8-7-19 – No change. Breakfast at Bow Lake was a foggy affair. After 2 long days on the road, a real adventure was in order, but it didn’t look like Loop was in luck. Might as well keep driving N.

Going over Bow Summit on Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93 a short while later, the situation appeared much more promising. Fog lingered down in the Mistaya River valley, but pale blue skies were overhead!

Heading into the Mistaya River valley after crossing Bow Summit. Photo looks NNW.

The weather continued to improve. Going to be a gorgeous day after all! SPHP stopped at the Coleman Creek picnic ground to get the pack ready, then accompanied Lupe to the North Saskatchewan River for a quick look around.

By the **North Saskatchewan River**. Photo looks SSE.

The beautiful river enhanced by the sun’s warmth was inspiring!

Oh, it’s a day made for adventure, SPHP! We’re here in the fabulous Canadian Rockies. Isn’t there something we can do?

Absolutely, Loopster! Remember the Canadians we followed up Mount Jimmy Simpson last year? One of the places they recommended was Tangle Ridge. It’s not much farther, and supposed to be a great day hike. Want to check it out?

Sounds terrific! Let’s do it! Anything to get out of the G6 for a while.

Going up and over Sunwapta Pass, Lupe went by the starting points of many great adventures she’d had in years past. Trailheads for Panther Falls, Nigel Pass, Parker Ridge, Wilcox Pass, and the Athabasca Glacier were all right along Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93 or close to it.

Once past the Athabasca Glacier, SPHP started looking for Tangle Falls. The cascade came into sight on the R (NE) side of the highway about 7 km later. A pullout was on the opposite side of the road. SPHP parked the G6, and Lupe headed over to check out the falls. (10:32 AM, 52ºF)

**Tangle Falls** in Jasper National Park. Photo looks ENE.

Tangle Falls consisted of a series of waterfalls rather than one great big one, but the overall effect was still quite impressive. Being right next to the highway, Tangle Falls was a busy place. However, while there was a sign for the falls right along the road, there didn’t seem to be one for any trail to Tangle Ridge (9,843 ft.).

After admiring the falls for a few minutes, Lupe set out in search of a trail. SE of Tangle Falls (uphill) on the same side of the highway she soon discovered an abandoned jeep or ATV route on top of an embankment. A small sign here said 7.5 km to Wilcox Pass. This had to be it! Access to Tangle Ridge was somewhere off this trail.

At the start of the Wilcox Pass trail near Tangle Falls. Photo looks SE.

7.5 km to Wilcox Pass, but the Tangle Ridge route would leave this trail long before Lupe got that far.

Paralleling Icefield Parkway Hwy 93, the Wilcox Pass trail went uphill heading SE. The trail began above the highway, and climbed fast enough to steadily increase the gap as both Tangle Falls and Tangle Creek were left behind. Although Lupe had been to Wilcox Pass before, she’d always started from the other end of the Wilcox Pass trail which begins near the Wilcox campground. She’d never been here before.

Near Tangle Falls the Wilcox Pass trail starts out as an abandoned jeep or ATV route. Photo looks SE.

The trail soon curved E (L) away from the highway and narrowed to a typical single track. For a short distance the trail was fairly level, but once it turned NE (L again), Lupe found herself on an increasingly steep ascent in a dense forest.

Heading up into the forest. Photo looks NE.

After a good climb, the trail emerged from the trees nearly leveling out as it traversed a steep open slope filled with wildflowers. This meadow wasn’t large, but already provided views hinting at what might be in store higher up.

At the first opening, a steep flower-filled meadow with views hinting at what was to come. Photo looks N.

**Mount Athabasca** (L) and **Mount Andromeda** (R). Photo looks SSE.

Beyond the steep meadow, the trail re-entered the forest. Almost right away, Lupe caught a glimpse of Tangle Creek far down in a valley with Tangle Ridge looming high above it.

First glimpse of **Tangle Ridge**. Photo looks N.

The Wilcox Pass trail continued higher in spurts winding generally E or NE with level or even short downhill sections in between. Tangle Creek was out of sight in a valley to the N, but could sometimes be heard. 15 minutes after catching that first glimpse of Tangle Ridge, Lupe reached Tangle Creek.

By **Tangle Creek** close to where the Wilcox Pass trail first reaches it. Photo looks ESE.

The topo map showed a massive arm of Tangle Ridge coming S down to Tangle Creek from the summit. Somewhere along in here Lupe needed to leave the Wilcox Pass trail and cross over to the N side of the creek, but exactly where to do that wasn’t clear. Was there a spur trail, or maybe even a bridge?

The trail continued E along the S side of Tangle Creek, so Lupe followed it a little farther. N of the stream a huge forested slope was in sight, but that was about it. However, Lupe did come to several small cairns next to the trail. Exactly what they signified wasn’t clear. No side trails were evident, nor any bridges across Tangle Creek.

By one of the little cairns that appeared shortly after reaching Tangle Creek. Photo looks E.

Lupe went far enough E to see a tributary entering Tangle Creek from the N. The map showed she shouldn’t go any further. Needing to stay W of that tributary, the Carolina Dog turned around and went back. This time, upon getting close to where the trail first reached Tangle Creek, SPHP noticed a large cairn sitting on an embankment N of the stream.

Hmm. Maybe Lupe ought to cross Tangle Creek right here to go check out that big cairn? The stream was easily fordable, and might even be rock-hopped. SPHP was still pondering when suddenly a hiker appeared near the big cairn. He proceeded down to Tangle Creek, crossed it, then stopped to chat with SPHP.

The hiker was a young man from Edmonton. He’d already been up to Tangle Ridge – a long, steep climb, but well worth it. The views up top were stunning! He provided some excellent advise:

Cross Tangle Creek here. From the big cairn, follow a faint trail going NE marked by several smaller cairns. Should wind up close to the W edge of a big ravine that a tributary of Tangle Creek comes down from the N. The trail will improve as it climbs steadily along or close to the edge of the ravine, before eventually fading away again above tree line. By then the route is obvious – just keep going up!

With that, after thanks from SPHP, the hiker disappeared down the Wilcox Pass trail.

So we cross Tangle Creek here, SPHP?

Yup. Think we were about to figure it all out on our own, Loop, but that was some great beta. No doubt about it now. Sounds pretty simple!

Onward, then! SPHP, ho!

Loop about to cross **Tangle Creek**. The big cairn *(not pictured off the R edge)* was visible from here up on an embankment on the opposite side of the creek. Photo looks NW.

Lupe easily forded the stream, while SPHP managed to rock-hop it. Up at the big cairn, the faint trail didn’t amount to much at all, but the American Dingo sniffed it out, and SPHP did notice a few little cairns along the way. The route was nearly level as it paralleled Tangle Creek, but soon it turned NE starting to gain elevation.

Before long, Lupe was at the W edge of the ravine overlooking Tangle Creek’s tributary from the N. At first she wasn’t all that high above the tributary, maybe 20 or 30 feet, but as the trail turned N following the ravine, it began a steep ascent. Soon the ravine was a deep valley, with the creek far below the precipitous sharp edge the trail ran along.

Heading up the W edge of the deep ravine. Photo looks NNE.

Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) came into view back to the SE as Lupe gained elevation.

**Mount Wilcox** (Center). Photo looks SE.

The hiker from Edmonton was right! The trail was now quite distinct and easy to follow. Once in a while it veered NW off into the forest, but it seldom strayed far from the edge of the huge ravine.

Onward and upward! The ascent was relentlessly steep, a problem now compounded by the appearance of hordes of mosquitoes. Lupe wanted to stop and take refuge under small trees or bushes, but the bloodthirsty insects found her wherever she tried to hide. SPHP urged Loop onward, since movement helped to stay ahead of the swarm, but frequently had to stop to gasp for breath, causing the American Dingo to seek shelter again during each pause.

Tangle Ridge was 1,000 meters, roughly 3,300 feet, higher than where Lupe crossed Tangle Creek. The forest seemed to go on forever, but at last tree line was reached. The trail now angled NW away from the ravine out onto open terrain where there were a few rock outcroppings. The mosquitoes remained bad, but the views to the S were already tremendous!

Tree line. Lupe hides out under the small tree (L of Center). **Mount Wilcox** (L) and **Mount Andromeda** (Center) with **Mount Athabasca** between them. Photo looks SSE.

**Nigel Peak** (L of Center), **Mount Wilcox** (R) and **Mount Athabasca** (far R). Photo looks SE.

**Mount Wilcox** (L), **Mount Athabasca** (Center) and **Mount Andromeda** (R). Photo looks SSE with help from the telephoto lens.

The trail faded away, and thankfully the mosquitoes disappeared, too, as Lupe got above the last of the vegetation. The Carolina Dog had already gained the vast majority of the elevation required to reach the top of Tangle Ridge (9,843 ft.), but there was still a considerable trudge higher yet to go on a barren scree slope. Lupe perked up and roamed as she pleased. Any route higher would do.

Approaching the end of the greenery. Photo looks N.

Another look back. **Mount Wilcox** (L) and **Mount Andromeda** (Center) with **Mount Athabasca** between them. **Sunwapta River valley** (Center). **Snow Dome** (R) and part of **Mount Kitchener** (R edge). Photo looks SSE.

Not far from the top now. Another part of **Tangle Ridge** (L) and **Nigel Peak** (R). Photo looks SE.

Near the top of Tangle Ridge, Loopster started coming to snowbanks. She found a big one draped over the summit next to an assortment of communications equipment.

Getting close to the top. Photo looks W.

The communications equipment comes into sight. Photo looks NW.

**Mount Athabasca** (L) and **Mount Andromeda** (R) from the summit. Photo looks SSE.

At the **true summit of Tangle Ridge**. Photo looks SE.

**Tangle Ridge** summit region. **Nigel Peak** (R). Photo looks SE.

What a tremendous vantage point Tangle Ridge (9,843 ft.) was! In all directions Lupe enjoyed visions of glory – a sea of mighty mountains, many snow or glacier-clad, stretching away as far as the eye could see!

Sunwapta Peak (10,892 ft.) was almost due N. Far beyond it toward the L was another prominent peak – Mount Henry MacLeod (10,876 ft.)? SPHP wasn’t sure, but was more confident that a distant high ridge to the R was Poboktan Mountain (10,892 ft.).

**Sunwapta Peak** (Center). **Mount Henry MacLeod** (far L)? **Poboktan Mountain** (R of Sunwapta) in the distance. Photo looks N.

**Mount Henry MacLeod** (Center)? Photo looks N with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

**Sunwapta Peak** (L) and **Poboktan Mountain** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

A dramatic lower ridge extended NW from the Tangle Ridge summit. Straight out from this ridge were some wild-looking peaks, but SPHP didn’t know any of them. Looking slightly to the R (NNW), Lupe had a commanding view of a long stretch of the Sunwapta River valley.

Looking down along **Tangle Ridge’s NW ridge** (R). **Diadem Peak (11,155 ft.)** (far L). Photo looks NW.

**Sunwapta River valley** (Center). Photo looks NNW.

Another look at **Tangle Ridge’s NW ridge**. Photo looks NW.

Zoomed in on the wild-looking unknown peaks. Photo looks NW.

To the E the mountains were a bit lower and less dramatic. A small lake was visible down in a deep canyon, but SPHP didn’t recognize any of the surrounding mysterious peaks.

More familiar territory was to the SE where Wilcox Lake nestled below Nigel Peak (10,535 ft.). Wilcox Pass, a favorite spot Lupe had been to several times before for a fabulous view of the Athabasca Glacier, was also in sight along with Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.).

**Wilcox Pass** (Center). **Nigel Peak** and **Wilcox Lake** (L). **Mount Wilcox** and snow-clad **Mount Athabasca** (R). Photo looks SE.

**Nigel Peak** (Center) and **Wilcox Lake**. Photo looks SE.

**Nigel Peak** and **Wilcox Lake**. Photo looks SE with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Only the toe of the Athabasca Glacier was visible from Tangle Ridge, but many surrounding peaks were familiar. Mount Athabasca (11,453 ft.), Mount Andromeda (11,286 ft.), Snow Dome (11,352 ft.) and Mount Kitchener (11,499 ft.) were all Lupe favorites.

**Mount Athabasca** (L) and **Mount Andromeda** (R). The **toe of the Athabasca Glacier** is visible at (Center). **Mount Wilcox** (lower L). Photo looks SSE.

**Mount Athabasca** (Center) and **Mount Wilcox** (lower L). Photo looks SSE with help from the telephoto lens.

Zoomed in on **Mount Andromeda** (L). Photo looks S.

**Mount Kitchener** (Center). Photo looks SSW.

Some of the most spectacular views from Tangle Ridge were of a series of tremendous peaks off to the W. SPHP couldn’t identify any of them. For a long time Lupe and SPHP sat together facing this awesome panorama. Studying maps later on yielded at least some answers.

Most impressive of all, Mount Alberta (11,870 ft.) stood farthest W. Somewhat closer toward the R (N) were Mount Woolley (11,286 ft.) and Diadem Peak (11,155 ft.). Mushroom Peak (10,499 ft.) situated in front of Diadem blended into the scene.

**Mount Alberta** (far L), **Mount Woolley** (L) and **Diadem Peak** (Center). Photo looks W.

**Diadem Peak** (L) with **Mushroom Peak** in front of it. Photo looks NW.

Little Alberta (9,711 ft.) and Mount Cromwell (10,958 ft.) stood L (S) of Mount Alberta. Next to the S came the massive snowy plateau of Stutfield Peak (11,319 ft.). Beyond and S of Stutfield were North Twin (12,247 ft.), highest of all, but only the top of which could be seen, and the dramatic steep ramp of South Twin (11,749 ft.).

**Mount Cromwell** (far L), **Little Alberta** (L), **Alberta Peak** (L of Center), **Mount Woolley** (Center L), and **Diadem Peak** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

**South Twin** (L), **North Twin** (Center) and **Stutfield Peak** (R). Photo looks SW.

**Stutfield Peak**. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

**South Twin** (L of Center). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Conditions weren’t bad at all. Temperatures in the low 50’s ºF, with a light SW wind. Lupe and SPHP made many rounds of the summit area, gazing repeatedly upon the fabulous views in all directions.

On **Tangle Ridge** high in the **Canadian Rockies**.

Late afternoon. A wonderful hour and 45 minutes on Tangle Ridge had slipped away all too soon. Facing famous Wilcox Pass far below, and all the glorious surrounding peaks, Lupe started S back down the long scree slope. What an unforgettable day in the Canadian Rockies this had turned out to be! (End 7:57 PM, 67ºF)

Leaving **Tangle Ridge**, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada 8-7-19

Links:

Next Adventure

Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-31-13)

Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-29-14)

The Athabasca Glacier & Wilcox Pass, Jasper National Park, Canada (8-3-16)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Sunwapta Falls, Athabasca Falls, Overlander Falls & Rearguard Falls in the Canadian Rockies (8-3-16 & 8-4-16)

Day 5 (Part 2) & Day 6 of Lupe’s 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

After an overcast, drippy morning, Lupe’s excursions to the toe of the Athabasca Glacier and Wilcox Pass had turned out great! The weather had gradually cleared up as the day went on. At mid-afternoon, as Lupe and SPHP headed N on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 looking for the next adventure, sunny blue skies prevailed.

Why not go take a look at Sunwapta Falls? These mighty falls contain the meltwaters of the Athabasca Glacier, which Lupe had just visited.

Well, one reason not to was that the Sunwapta Falls parking lot was packed. It took a while for a parking spot to open up. Lupe and SPHP went to see Sunwapta Falls along with the rest of the teeming throng. No doubt about it, Sunwapta Falls was gorgeous. A huge torrent of water plunged into a deep narrow gorge the Sunwapta River has carved over eons right through the rock.

Sunwapta Falls. This is upper Sunwapta Falls located near the parking lot. A trail leads downstream to a series of 3 more waterfalls in quick succession collectively known as lower Sunwapta Falls.

The bridge across the Sunwapta River below the falls was loaded with people. More tourists lined the chain link fences along the edges of the gorge. Lupe was lost and confused in the crowd. Once before, Lupe had taken a trail to lower Sunwapta Falls, a series of three more waterfalls in close succession downstream. The lower falls were equally impressive and worthwhile.

It wasn’t all that far to lower Sunwapta Falls. Unfortunately, today that was probably a disadvantage. The lower falls would likely be pretty busy, too. Not nearly as crowded as the upper falls, perhaps, but still busy. Lupe would have more fun somewhere else. Fortunately, Lupe and SPHP’s favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park wasn’t that far away. Lupe and SPHP returned to the G6, and continued N.

Maybe Lupe’s favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park is only intended for use by locals? It’s right off the W side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93, about 5 or 6 miles S of Athabasca Falls, but there is no sign for it anywhere along the highway. The picnic ground features only a handful of picnic tables situated right up on the E bank overlooking the Athabasca River. Across the giant river are beautiful peaks of the Canadian Rockies.

When Lupe and SPHP arrived, the picnic ground was empty. Simply fantastic! Lupe rushed down to cool off in the meltwater swollen Athabasca River. She searched for squirrels in the forest, and found a few, too! Lupe and SPHP played Dingo games. No one came. Lupe was free to be herself. The American Dingo was having a blast!

Lupe shakes herself off after cooling down in the Athabasca River.

Happy times - looking for squirrels. — Happy times – looking for squirrels.

Found one! There's a squirrel in this tree! — Found one! There’s a squirrel in this tree!

Glacial meltwater tastes great when your barker gets dry!

In the Athabasca River next to her favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park. Photo looks upstream (S).

View across the Athabasca River from Lupe’s favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park. Not too shabby, aye?

When early evening arrived, it was time to leave the picnic ground to go take a look at Athabasca Falls. There were still people around this very popular and impressive waterfall, but a big majority of the usual daytime crowds had by now departed. A tremendous torrent of the combined Sunwapta and Athabasca Rivers roared over the falls.

Lupe at Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park, Canada.

Mighty Athabasca Falls is located just off the W side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93. The falls are reached via a turn onto Highway 93A.

Short trails and bridges lead to viewpoints on both sides of Athabasca Falls, and even down to a viewpoint in the gorge below. Lupe explored them all.

The frothy Athabasca River churns through the narrow gorge below the falls.

After visiting Athabasca Falls, Lupe and SPHP continued N to the tourist and railroad town of Jasper. Lupe didn’t stay in Jasper long, though. Soon Lupe and SPHP were heading NW on Yellowhead Highway No. 16 toward British Columbia. It was a beautiful evening for a drive through the Canadian Rockies, but had been another long day, too. As SPHP drove, the weary American Dingo snoozed on her pile of blankets and pillows.

In Mount Robson Provincial Park, SPHP stopped the G6 at a long pullout near Yellowhead Lake. The lake was hidden by trees. Lupe and SPHP got out to take a look. A trail led through the forest and down a very steep bank to reach the shore of the lake.

Lupe by the shore of scenic Yellowhead Lake in Mount Robson Provincial Park. Photo looks SW.

Yellowhead Lake was gorgeous, but unfortunately, there was no trail along the shore. After a few minutes spent down by the lake admiring the view, Lupe and SPHP scrambled back up the steep bank. The dense forest blocked any view of the lake. Lupe’s last brief adventure of the day was spent sniffing around in the woods near Yellowhead Lake.

Lupe and SPHP drove on, but it was getting late. The long Canadian twilight was fading. Day was done. Time to stop for the night.

The next morning, Mount Fitzwilliam was in view, tall and impressive in the early light.

Mt. Fitzwilliam looked very tall and impressive in the early morning light on 8-4-16. Photo looks ESE.

However, Lupe and SPHP were already beyond Mt. Fitzwilliam. Lupe wasn’t going back. Today was a special day. Today Lupe was going N, hundreds of miles farther N than she had ever been before! Most of the day would be spent traveling, but not too far ahead were two more big Canadian waterfalls Lupe could visit along the way. The first was Overlander Falls.

Overlander Falls on the Fraser River is in Mount Robson Provincial Park, within walking distance of the park headquarters. SPHP parked the G6 at a trailhead along Yellowhead Hwy No. 16. A sign at the trailhead displayed a simple map of the area.

This simple map was posted at the trailhead E of the Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters.

Lupe was starting from the E end of the trail system, very close to Overlander Falls. A wide, well-worn path led into the forest from the highway. At first, the path lost elevation gradually, but as the roar of the falls grew louder, the trail started switchbacking down a steep slope.

In only 10 minutes, Lupe was at Overlander Falls. The falls weren’t high at all, but a tremendous volume of beautiful icy blue green water spilled over the brink into a vast swirling pool below.

Overlander Falls wasn't high, but a tremendous volume of beautiful icy blue green water spilled over the brink into a vast swirling pool below. — Overlander Falls wasn’t high, but a tremendous volume of beautiful icy blue green water spilled over the brink into a vast swirling pool below.

Overlander Falls is one of two significant waterfalls on the Fraser River. The other one is Rearguard Falls farther downstream.

A plaque near the falls told the story of how Overlander Falls got its name.

This plaque at the falls relates the history of how Overlander Falls got its name.

The cool mist from Overlander Falls felt good!

Since most of Lupe’s day was going to be spent traveling in the G6, the 1.6 km Overlander Falls trail along the Fraser River to the Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters was an appealing option. No one was around yet, and the trail would provide a peaceful, secluded path through the forest along the scenic blue green river. Lupe could get some exercise, and SPHP would enjoy the views. Lupe was most definitely in favor of the idea!

The Fraser River below Overlander Falls.

As it turned out, the Overlander Falls trail did not stay down near the river. Instead, it paralleled the river mostly 40 to 80 feet above it on the forested slope. The Fraser River was only occasionally in view. The trail was in good condition, but didn’t look like it sees an awful lot of use, perhaps because there are trails to more dramatic destinations nearby. (See Lupe’s fabulous hike to Mount Robson and Berg Lake in 2013 on the Berg Lake Trail!)

The Overlander Falls trail was fairly level most of the time, and an easy hike. It passed Hogan’s camp, established way back when the railroad was being built. The Carolina Dog was not too impressed. Hogan’s camp now amounts to nothing more than a few rotting logs. However, Lupe did enjoy sniffing and exploring in the forest along the trail. She found a few squirrels to bark at, which made her day.

Lupe at one of the few viewpoints above the Fraser River along the Overlander Falls Trail.

Fraser River from the Overlander Falls trail.

At the W end of the Overlander Falls trail, Lupe came to a road at a bridge across the Fraser River. There was no trailhead at this end, just a small sign near the bridge pointing out the trail. Downstream from the bridge was a bend in the Fraser River. Lupe and SPHP went down to the river’s edge so Lupe could get a drink.

Lupe along the Fraser River. The Overlander Falls trail heads upstream from the N side of the bridge seen over the river. A small sign on the upstream side of the road at the start of the bridge is the only indication of the trail’s presence. Photo looks upstream.

After the American Dingo had her drink from the Fraser River, Lupe and SPHP took the road another 0.25 km to the Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters on the N side of Yellowhead Hwy No. 16. Unfortunately, the sky had been clouding up. The summit of Mt. Robson was hidden from view.

Lupe made it to Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters, but sadly the summit of Mount Robson (behind the visitor center) was hidden in the clouds.

Lupe and SPHP returned to the Overlander Falls trail. On the way back to the G6, tragedy struck. Excited by a squirrel, while leaping around in the thick underbrush, Lupe got her right front dewclaw got hooked on something. Her dewclaw snapped completely off! It was painful and bled a little, but not much. The wounded Carolina Dog looked to SPHP for help.

Lupe returns to the Overlander Falls trail.

Lupe in pain with a snapped off right front dewclaw looks to SPHP for help. This photo is typical of the Overlander Falls trail as it went through the deep forest near the Fraser River.

SPHP examined Lupe’s paw, kissed the terrible wound many times, and gave Lupe lots of attention. When that didn’t cure it, SPHP carried Lupe along the trail.

Naturally, her right front paw hurt where the dewclaw had snapped off right at the base. Lupe was certain she couldn’t go on. Until she could. After 15 minutes of being carted around like a sack of potatoes, at Hogan’s camp Lupe decided she could manage on her own just fine. Back at the G6, Dr. SPHP applied anti-biotic ointment and a bandage (9:55 AM).

Lupe recuperating in the G6 with her right front paw with the snapped off dewclaw all bandaged up.

Lupe’s adventures (and misadventures) at Overlander Falls were complete. Time to get back on the road again (10:12 AM), but only for a short stretch. Lupe had very little chance to recuperate before reaching the trailhead for Rearguard Falls. She did fine anyway.

This sign at the Rearguard Falls trailhead told of the end of the salmon’s struggle here in their quest to swim up the Fraser River.

The trail to Rearguard Falls wasn’t very long. Lupe soon came to an elaborate system of walkways with metal railings near the falls. Like Overlander Falls, Rearguard Falls wasn’t all that high. Rearguard Falls was almost more like a cascade. It was still impressive and very beautiful. Lupe and SPHP stayed at Rearguard Falls for close to an hour.

Rearguard Falls on the Fraser River. Rearguard Falls is downstream from Overlander Falls.

Lupe on the boardwalks leading to Rearguard Falls.

Rearguard Falls in Rearguard Falls Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.

Lupe probably would have liked to soak her painful dewclaw wound in the cold waters of Rearguard Falls.

Part of the reason Lupe was at Rearguard Falls so long was that other people kept coming and going. Some of them had very fancy cameras they set up on tripods. At the closest viewpoint next to the falls, several photographers set up their tripods in succession, each one occupying the coveted spot continuously for 15 or 20 minutes.

It didn’t matter to Lupe or SPHP how long they took. The stunningly beautiful river, the hypnotic roar of the falls both soothing and powerful, the mountain scenery, and perfect weather made Rearguard Falls a great place to be. Waiting for a turn at the closest viewpoint, SPHP chatted with people, while Lupe relaxed or enjoyed being admired and petted by friendly tourists.

One lady was here with her husband (who was busy with his camera and tripod at the coveted spot) and two sons. They were from the Netherlands. She said they had saved money for 10 years to come to Canada. Eventually they were going to sail up the inland passage on the Pacific Ocean near the end of their trip. They loved Canada, and were having a fabulous time!

Finally, it was Lupe’s turn at the closest spot to Rearguard Falls. Two photos, a final lingering look, and Lupe’s time at Rearguard Falls was over (11:31 AM).

Lupe at the coveted spot closest to Rearguard Falls.

Lupe and SPHP spent nearly all the rest of the day traveling on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16. Both Lupe and SPHP were farther N than they had ever been before. Lupe was entering a whole new world!

NW of the junction with Hwy 5, traffic on Hwy 16 greatly diminished. Almost everyone else had turned S on Hwy 5 heading for Kamloops. Lupe was in a valley miles wide, with a wall of high mountains on each side. Nearly all the land was forested, but at first there were some farms and fields near the highway, too. Haystacks were abundant, but curiously, not livestock. Lupe watched diligently for a long time, but saw only one herd of cows to bark at.

After a while, the farms and fields disappeared. On both sides of the valley, the high mountains were getting progressively smaller and more distant. Unbroken forest stretched in every direction as far the eye could see. Despite being in what appeared to be a complete wilderness, no wildlife was seen except for ravens picking at roadkill.

With no cows or horses to bark at, and no wildlife to hold her attention, Lupe’s eyelids began to droop. Soon she was snoozing, as the countless miles of endless forest went by. To SPHP, it was all increasingly magical, to be here, at last, with Lupe in a wilderness that stretched ahead for not only hundreds, but literally thousands of miles, heading toward the unknown.

With no cows or horses to bark at, and no wildlife to hold her attention, Lupe drifted off to a peaceful sleep on her way to more adventures as the miles flew by. Maybe her snooze wasn't all peaceful? While in Dingo Dreamland, sometimes her lips and paws twitched. — With no cows or horses to bark at, and no wildlife to hold her attention, Lupe drifted off to a peaceful sleep on her way to more adventures as the miles flew by. Maybe her snooze wasn’t all peaceful? While in Dingo Dreamland, sometimes her lips and paws twitched.

Granted, what lay ahead wasn’t completely unknown. SPHP had maps and descriptions, had seen photos online, and had a general plan for Lupe’s 2016 Dingo Vacation adventures. All that was helpful, necessary and informative to a degree, but only scratched the surface of the possibilities and realities in this gigantic new territory Lupe was traveling through. And all the preparations weren’t the same as finally being here, actually seeing it all for the very first time.

The mountains were gone, replaced by distant blue ridges, by the time Lupe neared Prince George. Lupe woke up as the G6 slowed entering the city. Prince George turned out to be a lively and attractive city situated along the scenic Fraser River. It was the only large town Lupe would see in all of British Columbia. SPHP made a couple of stops for gas and groceries.

As Hwy 16 headed WNW from Prince George, farms and fields appeared again, carved out of the seemingly limitless forest. To Lupe, the open fields meant cows and horses. This time the Carolina Dog wasn’t disappointed. Although most of the fields were full of haystacks and bales, Lupe did see lots of cows and horses. She got plenty of most satisfying barking in. Now and then she had to stop long enough to slurp up water to wet her poor overworked parched barker.

At a rest stop near Cluculz Lake, Lupe and SPHP devoured half of a whole roasted chicken purchased in Prince George, while a rain shower passed over. Between the exciting cows and horses, and tasty roasted chicken, Lupe was very much revived. Back on the road again, she remained awake and watchful.

The long drive was marvelously relaxing. Lush green fields surrounded by dark forests appeared, and subsequently retreated from view. Distant blue ridges defined the horizon. Gray white clouds drifted across a partly sunny blue sky, trailing rain dark streaks of rain behind them. For a long time, the G6 said it was a perfect 71°F out.

The green fields closer to Prince George gradually disappeared, swallowed by the primal forest. Lupe passed through a few small towns of significance – Vanderhoof, Fraser Lake, and Burns Lake. The farther Lupe went, the less traffic remained on the road. The sun was low by the time Lupe reached Houston, a tiny, quiet community near the Bulkley River.

In Houston, right alongside Yellowhead Highway No. 16, was a very beautiful small park with a fountain, manicured lawn, and a profusion of vibrantly colored flowers. Here Lupe and SPHP stopped to stretch their legs and admire Houston’s crown jewel, in the little time remaining while it was all still aglow in the sharply slanting rays of earth’s sinking star.

Lupe reached beautiful Steelhead Park in Houston, British Columbia near day's end. — Lupe reached beautiful Steelhead Park in Houston, British Columbia near day’s end.

Steelhead Park was full of a dazzling array of colorful flowers in perfect condition.

It must take an enormous amount of work to keep Steelhead Park looking so immaculately manicured. The entire park was in tip top shape!

Rainbow trout and steelheads are the same species, but live very different lives. Rainbow trout live their lives entirely in fresh water, while steelheads are anadromous, meaning they spend part of their lives in the sea.

And so, for now, we leave American Dingo explorer and adventurer Lupe in the little town of Houston, deep in northern British Columbia, at the end of Day 6 of her super fabulous Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation among the brilliant blossoms of Steelhead Park.