Day 5 (Part 1) of Lupe’s summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska.
After midnight, Lupe heard rain. Always light, never heavy, but steady. SPHP hoped there would be new snow on the mountains in the morning. Morning came. No such luck. The night hadn’t been quite cold enough. Even if there had been new snow, Lupe might not have seen it. The mountaintops remained shrouded by clouds and mist.
In early morning mist and light rain, Lupe and SPHP explored along the shore of Bow Lake from the picnic ground to where Lupe could see the toe of the Crowfoot Glacier. The toe was the only part of the glacier not lost in the clouds.
A visit to the Athabasca Glacier, and a trek up to Wilcox Pass were on Lupe’s agenda for the day. Unfortunately, both would be pointless in this weather. All the glorious sights would be hidden from view.
The American Dingo had been to Wilcox Pass twice before, on both her 2013 & 2014 Dingo Vacations. The views from the overlook toward the Athabasca Glacier and surrounding peaks were the most spectacular Lupe had seen anywhere in the Canadian Rockies. Missing out on Wilcox Pass would be simply tragic!
Nothing we can do, Loop, but head N and see what conditions are like when we get there! Maybe these clouds will burn off or move out by then.
Nothing had really changed, though, by the time Lupe and SPHP drove over Sunwapta Pass into Jasper National Park. The sky was still completely overcast, the mountaintops hidden from view. Light rain fell intermittently. It didn’t look like Wilcox Pass was in the cards at all.
Surprisingly, most of the Athabasca Glacier could be seen beneath the clouds. Lupe could still take the little hike up toward the toe of the glacier.
The short hike to see the Athabasca Glacier didn’t take very long, but during that time, the rain virtually stopped. Off to the N, SPHP noticed two tiny patches of blue sky. That was all it took. Once back at the G6, Lupe and SPHP drove S on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 a few miles to the Wilcox Pass trailhead.
Only 3 vehicles were at the normally popular trailhead, an indication of how poor conditions had been to start the day. Disappointingly, instead of growing as hoped, the tiny patches of blue sky had disappeared. It was misting again. The temperature was only in the 40’s (°F).
Lupe was undeterred. The Carolina Dog was ready to hit the trail! Another vehicle pulled into the trailhead as Lupe began her ascent to Wilcox Pass (10:00 AM).
The first part of the Wilcox Pass trail winds around in a forest while climbing steadily. Shortly after crossing a wooden bridge over a steep slope, Lupe came to the first viewpoint. Part of the Athabasca Glacier was in view, but clouds still clung to the mountains.
Beyond the first viewpoint, the forest thinned quickly. The trail was relatively level for a short distance, as it led along the edge of a ridge. The Athabasca Glacier could now be seen most of the time.
The steepest part of the climb was next. The trail turned away from the view and went up a big slope. Lupe passed by scattered patches of stunted forest, and was soon above tree line. Ominously, instead of clearing up, the sky was looking darker. The mist was heavier than before.
Lupe wasn’t turning back now! The hardest part of the climb was over. The trek to Wilcox Pass was becoming progressively easier when, suddenly, Lupe stopped. She had seen or sniffed something up on the slope above the trail!
A small herd of Bighorn sheep was resting on the tundra. Lupe was fascinated. She wanted to stay right here and watch. Actually, she wanted to go trophy sheep hunting, but the leash prevented her from having too much fun.
As Lupe watched Bighorn sheep, the mist turned to rain. The few people who had come up to Wilcox Pass earlier in the day were now slogging past Lupe and SPHP on the way back down the trail. The couple that had been following Lupe up turned around and retreated, too.
SPHP finally persuaded Lupe to press on, leaving the sheep to enjoy their solitude. As Lupe neared Wilcox Pass, a chill wind drove the rain down more fiercely. Lupe and SPHP were totally alone. That was awesome! The fresh breeze felt good, too, but the rain would have to let up pretty soon if Lupe was to remain up here for long.
Lupe made it to Wilcox Pass. Conditions weren’t terrible, but they weren’t encouraging either. The vast and lonely pass was beautiful and mysterious beneath the sullen sky.
The stupendous panoramic view that Lupe had come to see was at the end of a side trail to the SW, not right at Wilcox Pass itself. Even though it appeared likely the view was going to be obscured by clouds and rain, Lupe and SPHP set off on the side trail. The solitary hike over the forlorn, broken wild tundra might have to be its own reward.
The commanding, panoramic view of the Athabasca Glacier and surrounding peaks Lupe was on her way to see is perhaps 0.5 mile to 1.0 mile SW of the main trail at Wilcox Pass. The trail to the viewpoint climbs several small ridges, and goes through a series of lower areas, too, on the way. Lupe and SPHP made good progress to one of the higher ridges, where there was a large cairn.
It was still windy, but thankfully, the rain was starting to let up. The clouds were lifting. Lupe could now see the summit of Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.). Even better, off to the N was another patch of blue sky! It was bigger than the tiny patches of blue sky SPHP had seen before.
The weather continued improving as Lupe and SPHP followed the side trail SW. The patch of blue sky near Mount Wilcox was growing fast!
The last little valley to be crossed before reaching the final ridge was narrow and had a tiny stream flowing through it. Lupe crossed the stream and climbed up on the final ridge. The whole ridgeline featured tremendous views. Lupe and SPHP followed the trail NW to another big cairn. This cairn appeared to be the end of the side trail, and a fantastic spot to take in the panoramic view.
Going a short distance SW down the slope from the cairn got Lupe out of the worst of the wind. At first, clouds still obscured the mountains surrounding the Athabasca Glacier. However, the now huge hole in the clouds near Mount Wilcox held out the promise of clearing skies and splendid scenes soon to come. Lupe and SPHP got comfortable, and prepared to watch the big show.
Lupe had made it to the viewpoint just in time. It was only a matter of a few minutes before blue sky started appearing over the Athabasca Glacier. The summit of Snow Dome (11,483 ft.) was the first to be revealed.
For 40 minutes, Lupe and SPHP watched the changing scene. The blue sky tried hard, but never could reveal the summits of the other peaks around the Athabasca Glacier. Clouds clung to them. Sometimes it seemed like the peaks were creating more clouds all by themselves.
It was all still gorgeous. SPHP was very glad that Lupe came up to Wilcox Pass and over to the viewpoint. What a shame it would have been to miss all this grandeur!
Eventually the big patch of blue sky started losing the battle. More clouds were coming. The sky darkened. The big show was over, at least for now. It was time for Lupe to go. She had lots of fun on the way back exploring the heather.
The blue sky had encouraged others to start coming back up to Wilcox Pass, too. Soon Lupe and SPHP were no longer alone. Sporadically, it rained again, but this time not hard enough to discourage everyone. Now, Lupe and SPHP were the only ones going down, while others came up.
Lupe was pleased and excited to see that the Bighorn sheep hadn’t gone anywhere. They were still peacefully watching the passing parade. Lupe got a little more sheep watching in, too.
When Lupe emerged from the forest at the Wilcox Pass trailhead again (2:47 PM), the clouds were nearly all gone. Blue skies and sunshine prevailed, and things had warmed up considerably (59°F).
SPHP drove Lupe down to the Icefield Centre across the highway from the Athabasca Glacier. The place was a madhouse. SPHP was fortunate to get a parking spot in the huge parking lot. The place was packed with vehicles, with lots more circling around looking for an opening.
The views from the Icefield Centre weren’t as good as from high above in the Wilcox Pass area, but the scene was still magnificent. Now that their summits were in clear view, Lupe agreed to pose for a few more photos of the high snowy peaks surrounding the Athabasca Glacier.
The rainy, misty morning was long gone, having finally given way to this bright, sunny afternoon. Lupe had been close to the Athabasca Glacier, made it to Wilcox Pass, and seen glorious sights from on high.
Well, Looper, it’s what, not even 3:15 PM, yet. What now?
Since we are in the Canadian Rockies on a fine summer afternoon, looks like time for another adventure to me!
The clever Carolina Dog was so right! Lupe and SPHP hopped in the G6, left the teeming Icefield Centre parking lot, and headed N on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93. When you are in the Canadian Rockies, the next big adventure is never far away!
Note: Although there are many areas of superb beauty in the Canadian Rockies, the Wilcox Pass trail to the dramatic snow and ice-covered panoramic view of Mt. Athabasca, Mt. Andromeda, the Athabasca Glacier, Snow Dome and Mt. Kitchener is the most scenically rewarding half day hike Lupe and SPHP have found to date.
The Wilcox Pass trailhead is located less than 0.25 mile off the N bound side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 along the gravel road that leads to the Wilcox Creek campground. The turnoff is just a mile or two N of the Banff and Jasper National Parks boundary at Sunwapta Pass, and just a couple miles S of the Icefield Centre across from the Athabasca Glacier.
The Wilcox Pass trail is in good condition. The side trail to the viewpoint SW of the pass is easy to spot and follow. Total elevation gain is on the order of 1,400 feet. One section of the main trail is fairly steep, but most of it is only moderately strenuous.
Another great trail to a glacier view is only 10 minutes away. The Parker Ridge trail, which is even shorter (and less time-consuming) than the Wilcox Pass trail, switchbacks up to a spectacular view of the Saskatchewan Glacier. The Parker Ridge trailhead is along the S bound side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 several miles S of the Jasper National Park and Banff National Park boundary at Sunwapta Pass.
Links:
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-31-13)
Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-29-14)
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