Category: 2016 Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

The Salmon Glacier near Hyder, Alaska (8-5-16)

Day 7 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska.

Lupe and SPHP hit the road again early (6:20 AM), still heading NW on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16.  A cool, light rain fell under overcast skies.  Lupe was happy.  Vast forests continued to dominate, but every now and then the Carolina Dog had an opportunity to bark at cows or horses in fields near the road.  The miles flew by.

The day seemed to be getting darker, instead of brighter, when Lupe passed through Smithers in rain and fog.  High mountains were close to Smithers, the first high mountains Lupe had seen since before reaching Prince George yesterday.  Lupe was approaching adventure territory once again!

On the way to New Hazelton, the rain stopped.  The skies started clearing.  It was going to be a bright day after all!  After passing through New Hazelton, Yellowhead Highway No. 16 turned SW for a while.  Lupe and SPHP stopped for a short break at Sealy Lake.  A sign told of an ancient water-grizzly named Medeek.

This plaque at Sealy Lake tells of the ancient water-grizzly Medeek.

Lupe went down to Sealy Lake.  The lake was a small one with reeds near the shore.  Impressive mountains were near Sealy Lake to the SE, but they weren’t what held SPHP’s interest.  Across Sealy Lake, mountains with large snowfields on them were seen in the distance to the W.  Before Lupe reached those mountains, she would turn N on the Cassiar Highway No. 37.

Lupe at Sealy Lake. Before she reached the mountains seen in the distance beyond the lake, Lupe would turn N on the Cassiar Highway No. 37. Photo looks W.
Lupe at Sealy Lake. Before she reached the mountains seen in the distance beyond the lake, Lupe would turn N on the Cassiar Highway No. 37. Photo looks W.

A little later on, Lupe was there, at the junction.  Getting to the Cassiar Highway No. 37 was kind of a big deal.  The Cassiar was going to be Lupe’s road to adventure!

Lupe at a sign near the junction of Yellowhead Highway No. 16, which she had been following ever since leaving Jasper in Alberta, and the Cassiar Highway No. 37.
Lupe about to head N on the Cassiar Highway No. 37.

As Lupe and SPHP traveled N on Cassiar Highway No. 37, mountains and forests soon took over completely.  Gone were the fields of haystacks, cows and horses.  The highway went by beautiful lakes and rivers.  Lupe missed the cows and horses, and eventually fell asleep.

At Meziadin Junction, SPHP turned W on Hwy 37A, a 61 km spur road to Stewart, British Columbia.  Along the way, Lupe got to see the Bear Glacier.

Lupe got to see the Bear Glacier across Strohn Lake from Hwy 37A on the way to Stewart. Photo looks SW.
The Bear Glacier with a little help from the telephoto lens.

Farther on, Hwy 37A crossed a bridge over the Bear River just before entering the small border town of Stewart, British Columbia.  The Bear River valley was impressive.  Lupe and SPHP got out of the G6 to take a look.

Lupe near Stewart, British Columbia. Photo looks N up the impressive Bear River valley.
Lupe near Stewart, British Columbia. Photo looks N up the impressive Bear River valley.

Stewart is a small town at the end of the Portland Canal, a long narrow arm (a fjord, essentially) of the Pacific Ocean.  Only 3 km from Stewart, Lupe entered the even smaller town of Hyder, Alaska.  Alaska became Lupe’s 12th US Dingo State!

Hyder, Alaska has two main attractions, other than being on the Portland Canal.  A few miles N of Hyder is the Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site.  For $5 per day, visitors can view wildlife from a raised wooden observation platform along Fish Creek.  Wild bears feeding on salmon in Fish Creek are the big draw.

Although Lupe would have loved barking ferociously at grizzly bears from the safety of a raised platform, this would no doubt have been frowned upon by the park service and every other site visitor.  Nevertheless, SPHP stopped briefly at the Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site to ask directions to Hyder’s other main attraction, the Salmon Glacier.

The directions were easy.  Just keep following the road past the Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site.  About 16 miles from Hyder, the road reaches an observation point with a tremendous view overlooking the Salmon Glacier.  Interestingly, although the road through Hyder, Alaska and past Fish Creek provides the only access to the Salmon Glacier, the glacier itself is actually a short distance over the Canadian border in British Columbia.

The sky was crystal clear blue as Lupe and SPHP drove up the gravel road.  The road went N following the Salmon River valley, climbing ever higher up on the mountain slopes on the E side of the valley.  Traffic was surprisingly heavy, and raised long-lingering clouds of dust.  There were numerous small pullouts at viewpoints along the way.  Finally, the Salmon Glacier came into view.

The Salmon Glacier comes into view from the road to the main viewpoint. A helicopter is seen flying up the valley. Photo looks N.
The Salmon Glacier comes into view from the road to the main viewpoint. A helicopter is seen flying up the valley. Photo looks N.
Impressive as it is, this first part of the glacier to come into view is only a small part of the whole Salmon Glacier.

The S tongue of the Salmon Glacier which came into view first was impressive, but is only a small part of the entire glacier.  The scene became more and more amazing as Lupe neared the main Salmon Glacier viewpoint.

The main viewpoint was crowded when Lupe arrived.  A dozen vehicles were parked along the road and in a small parking area.  Two dozen or more people were milling around checking out the view.  Lupe and SPHP ignored the dust and commotion, as much as possible.  Lupe waited for a turn up on a small rise with a panoramic glacier view.

Wow!  The Salmon Glacier was absolutely stunning!  The huge white glacier, streaked with dark gray rock and tinges of blue, flows down a high wide valley surrounded by mountains straight toward the viewpoint.  Hundreds of feet below, the giant glacier splits into a forked tongue.  The larger end flows S (L) down the Salmon River valley.  The smaller N (R) end flows into a depression filled earlier in the year by Summit Lake.

Lupe at the main Salmon Glacier viewpoint near the highest point on the access road. Photo looks W.
Lupe at the main Salmon Glacier viewpoint near the highest point on the access road. Photo looks W.
The Salmon Glacier is in British Columbia, Canada, although the only access road to this amazing viewpoint goes through Hyder, Alaska.

The Salmon Glacier was a glorious sight!  What wasn’t glorious was how busy the main viewpoint was.  Vehicles kept coming and going raising all kinds of dust.  A road which goes 10 miles farther past the main viewpoint, was closed for construction.  Construction equipment made more dust and noise as it rumbled by.  Several helicopters flew back and forth, apparently in connection with the construction.

A two year old tyrant among the throng of tourists had learned to screech commands every 20 or 30 seconds at his willingly subservient parents.  A grandma in the same family pleaded with 2 older girls to please come and stand by her for a photo.  After all, grandma had bought them lots of nice things, hadn’t she?  With nothing new in it for them, the girls pouted and declined to have anything to do with grandma.

Lupe loved one part of all these goings on – the helicopters!  Lupe loves helicopters.  In particular, she loves to run below them barking furiously to chase them away.  With all the helicopters buzzing around, Lupe was only adding to the general tumult.

Several helicopters kept flying around near the main Salmon Glacier viewpoint, apparently in connection with road construction. Lupe loves barking at helicopters! The American Dingo’s frantic yelping only added to the annoying din at the main viewpoint.

Fortunately, SPHP remembered reading online that there is an unmaintained trail going up the mountainside to the E of the Salmon Glacier viewpoint.  The views would be even more spectacular up there!  Lupe could bark at helicopters all she wanted to, far from the crowd.  Lupe and SPHP left the little parking lot (1:51 PM, 66°F), quickly finding several informal trails winding up the mountainside.

Making the climb above the parking lot was a great decision.  As Lupe and SPHP gained hundreds of feet of elevation, the noise, dust, brats and general commotion at the main viewpoint faded away.  Helicopters still flew by, even closer than down below, greatly entertaining Lupe.  She raced around barking for all she was worth, not bothering anyone.

Lupe and SPHP stopped for short breaks on a couple of hills hundreds feet above the road.  Peace and tranquility reigned.  Missing these incredible views from on high would have been a shame!

Lupe takes a break from chasing helicopters on a small hill hundreds of feet above the main Salmon Glacier viewpoint down by the road (seen near Lupe's tongue). Up here, the magnificent Salmon Glacier could be enjoyed in solitude and tranquility (at least when the helicopters weren't around). Much, much better! Photo looks W.
Lupe takes a break from chasing helicopters on a small hill hundreds of feet above the main Salmon Glacier viewpoint down by the road (seen near Lupe’s tongue). Up here, the magnificent Salmon Glacier could be enjoyed in solitude and tranquility (at least when the helicopters weren’t around). Much, much better! Photo looks W.
The upper end of the Salmon Glacier. Photo looks W using the telephoto lens.
Lupe atop one of the two hills where she took her first short breaks. Photo looks SW.
Looking NW now. Part of the N tongue of the Salmon Glacier is seen below.
Looking NW now. Part of the N tongue of the Salmon Glacier is seen below.

Fields of flowers watered by tiny streams and ponds were in view beyond the small hills where Lupe took her first short breaks.  When her breaks were done, Lupe went SSE exploring this vibrant, colorful territory.  She climbed even higher up to a massive knob of rock where she found a big cairn.  To the SE, Lupe could see the snow-capped summit of Mount Dilworth (5,446 ft.).

Lupe in the fields of flowers on her way to the knob of rock seen on the L. Photo looks SE.
Lupe in the fields of flowers on her way to the knob of rock seen on the L. Photo looks SE.
Wildflowers on the slopes of Mount Dilworth.
Wildflowers on the slopes of Mount Dilworth.
Lupe on the rock knob. The snow-capped summit of Mount Dilworth is in view. Photo looks SE.
Lupe on the highest rock knob she visited on the slopes of Mount Dilworth. Photo looks N.
The Salmon Glacier as viewed from the highest rock knob Lupe reached on the slopes of Mount Dilworth. Lupe stands by the big cairn she found here. Photo looks W.
The upper end of the Salmon Glacier as seen from Lupe’s highest point of advance up Mount Dilworth. Photo looks W using the telephoto lens.
Salmon Glacier ice viewed through the telephoto lens.

From the rock knob, the views were amazing, not only toward the Salmon Glacier, but in every direction.  The day was very warm and sunny.  Conditions were ideal.  For a little while, SPHP toyed with the idea of climbing Mount Dilworth with Lupe.  It looked easy, but maybe the huge snowfield at the top was actually quite dangerous?  Falling into a crevasse would be the end.  Best to leave it alone.

So Lupe made no attempt to climb Mount Dilworth, despite how tempting it looked.  Instead, the Carolina Dog had fun among flowers, fields, and streams on the way back down to the main Salmon Glacier viewpoint along the road.  The return trip was a wonderful time full of beautiful sights.

Lupe on the way back down the slopes of Mount Dilworth. Photo looks NW.
Lupe on the way back down the slopes of Mount Dilworth. Photo looks NW.
Yes, this is what Dingo Vacations are all about!
Yes, this is what Dingo Vacations are all about!
Salmon Glacier from the slopes of Mount Dilworth. Photo looks W.

Flowers on Mount Dilworth, British Columbia, CanadaFlower on Mount Dilworth, British Columbia, Canada 8-5-16When Lupe reached the main Salmon Glacier viewpoint back at the road, a new bit of excitement was going on.  Someone had accidentally dropped their camera far down a steep slope, and attempting to retrieve it, managed to get themselves stuck in a precarious position.  A rescue operation was in progress.

While everyone else was gathered in one spot talking about the rescue, Lupe and SPHP walked over to a hill offering a better view of the N tongue of the glacier.  Every year, typically in mid-July, this part of the Salmon Glacier unleashes a major natural hazard.

In spring and early summer, Summit Lake forms from meltwaters backed up by an ice-dam at the N end of the glacier.  As temperatures warm, Summit Lake eventually breaks through the ice-dam.  The lake then drains to the S beneath the Salmon Glacier, flooding the Salmon River where water levels rise suddenly by 4 or 5 feet for several days.

Since it was August, Summit Lake had already broken through the ice-dam and drained away.  Lupe could still see where Summit Lake had been, though.  A small area of gray green water remained at the bottom of a depression surrounded by collapsed ice and snow.  The former high water level was easy to see on the side of the mountain above.

Lupe saw this view of the gray green waters surrounded by collapsed snow and ice remaining after the natural draining of Summit Lake under the Salmon Glacier in July. It’s easy to see the typical high water line of Summit Lake along the base of the mountain slope on the L. Photo looks NW.
Collapsed snow and ice around the remains of Summit Lake.

Lupe’s visit to the Salmon Glacier had been a most memorable occasion, but it was time to move on (4:07 PM, 76°F).  Lupe and SPHP made a few more stops at viewpoints on the way back to Hyder while the glorious Salmon Glacier was still in view.

Looking WNW at the huge sweeping curve of the Salmon Glacier for the last time.
Looking WNW at the huge sweeping curve of the Salmon Glacier for the last time.
S tongue of the Salmon Glacier. Photo looks N.

Salmon Glacier, British Columbia, Canada 8-5-16On the way back to Hyder, the G6 said the temperature hit an incredible 84°F outside.  SPHP fretted uselessly about the ultimate fate of the Salmon Glacier.  Things cooled off closer to Hyder, perhaps influenced by the nearby presence of the ocean.

Lupe hadn’t seen the ocean since visiting the Washington and Oregon coasts during her Summer of 2012 Dingo Vacation nearly 4 years ago.  So when Lupe got back to Hyder, Alaska, SPHP drove her over to the end of the wharf to see the Portland Canal.

Lupe stands on a bench at the end of the wharf in Hyder, Alaska. Beyond her is the Portland Canal, an arm of the North Pacific Ocean. This was the first time Lupe had seen the ocean since she was only 1.5 years old on her 2012 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast. Photo looks SW.
Lupe stands on a bench at the end of the wharf in Hyder, Alaska. Beyond her is the Portland Canal, an arm of the North Pacific Ocean. This was the first time Lupe had seen the ocean since she was only 1.5 years old on her 2012 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast. Photo looks SW.
Looking NE from Hyder, Alaska toward Stewart, British Columbia at the end of the Portland Canal.

Lupe’s adventure to Hyder, Alaska and the Salmon Glacier was done.  Lupe and SPHP went back through Canadian customs returning to Stewart in British Columbia.  Although it was late afternoon already, the long Canadian summer days meant there were still hours of daylight left.

Lupe and SPHP left Stewart taking Hwy 37A back past the Bear Glacier to Meziadin Junction.  After gassing the G6 up, Lupe’s long journey N on Cassiar Highway No. 37 resumed.  Each mile took the Carolina Dog farther N than she had ever been before.

Daylight was fading by the time Lupe crossed a big bridge over a river that looked like it was running very low.  Beyond the bridge was the Bell 1 rest stop.  SPHP pulled in.  Time for a quick dinner before dark.  For some reason, Lupe wanted to stay in the G6.  Was she just tired, or was it true?

A guy from Dease Lake had been talking to SPHP.  He said his big brown dog sensed bears nearby, and claimed these woods were full of bears.  He also talked about how the weather was changing.  Last winter this area had received only 4 feet of snow.  Ten years ago, typical total winter snowfall used to be 15 meters (49 feet).  Another bad sign for the Salmon Glacier.

Well, that’s why we are here now, Looper!  To see it all while fate and fortune still smile upon us, and these fabulous natural wonders of the world remain.

The Salmon Glacier from the slopes of Mount Dilworth.

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Sunwapta Falls, Athabasca Falls, Overlander Falls & Rearguard Falls in the Canadian Rockies (8-3-16 & 8-4-16)

Day 5 (Part 2) & Day 6 of Lupe’s 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

After an overcast, drippy morning, Lupe’s excursions to the toe of the Athabasca Glacier and Wilcox Pass had turned out great!  The weather had gradually cleared up as the day went on.  At mid-afternoon, as Lupe and SPHP headed N on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 looking for the next adventure, sunny blue skies prevailed.

Why not go take a look at Sunwapta Falls?  These mighty falls contain the meltwaters of the Athabasca Glacier, which Lupe had just visited.

Well, one reason not to was that the Sunwapta Falls parking lot was packed.  It took a while for a parking spot to open up.  Lupe and SPHP went to see Sunwapta Falls along with the rest of the teeming throng.  No doubt about it, Sunwapta Falls was gorgeous.  A huge torrent of water plunged into a deep narrow gorge the Sunwapta River has carved over eons right through the rock.

Sunwapta Falls. This is upper Sunwapta Falls located near the parking lot. A trail leads downstream to a series of 3 more waterfalls in quick succession collectively known as lower Sunwapta Falls.

The bridge across the Sunwapta River below the falls was loaded with people.  More tourists lined the chain link fences along the edges of the gorge.  Lupe was lost and confused in the crowd.  Once before, Lupe had taken a trail to lower Sunwapta Falls, a series of three more waterfalls in close succession downstream.  The lower falls were equally impressive and worthwhile.

It wasn’t all that far to lower Sunwapta Falls.  Unfortunately, today that was probably a disadvantage.  The lower falls would likely be pretty busy, too.  Not nearly as crowded as the upper falls, perhaps, but still busy.  Lupe would have more fun somewhere else.  Fortunately, Lupe and SPHP’s favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park wasn’t that far away.  Lupe and SPHP returned to the G6, and continued N.

Maybe Lupe’s favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park is only intended for use by locals?  It’s right off the W side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93, about 5 or 6 miles S of Athabasca Falls, but there is no sign for it anywhere along the highway.  The picnic ground features only a handful of picnic tables situated right up on the E bank overlooking the Athabasca River.  Across the giant river are beautiful peaks of the Canadian Rockies.

When Lupe and SPHP arrived, the picnic ground was empty.  Simply fantastic!  Lupe rushed down to cool off in the meltwater swollen Athabasca River.  She searched for squirrels in the forest, and found a few, too!  Lupe and SPHP played Dingo games.  No one came.  Lupe was free to be herself.  The American Dingo was having a blast!

Lupe shakes herself off after cooling down in the Athabasca River.
Lupe shakes herself off after cooling down in the Athabasca River.
Happy times - looking for squirrels.
Happy times – looking for squirrels.
Found one! There's a squirrel in this tree!
Found one! There’s a squirrel in this tree!
Glacial meltwater tastes great when your barker gets dry!
In the Athabasca River next to her favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park. Photo looks upstream (S).
View across the Athabasca River from Lupe’s favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park. Not too shabby, aye?

When early evening arrived, it was time to leave the picnic ground to go take a look at Athabasca Falls.  There were still people around this very popular and impressive waterfall, but a big majority of the usual daytime crowds had by now departed.  A tremendous torrent of the combined Sunwapta and Athabasca Rivers roared over the falls.

Lupe at Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park, Canada.
Mighty Athabasca Falls is located just off the W side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93. The falls are reached via a turn onto Highway 93A.
Short trails and bridges lead to viewpoints on both sides of Athabasca Falls, and even down to a viewpoint in the gorge below. Lupe explored them all.
Short trails and bridges lead to viewpoints on both sides of Athabasca Falls, and even down to a viewpoint in the gorge below. Lupe explored them all.
The frothy Athabasca River churns through the narrow gorge below the falls.

After visiting Athabasca Falls, Lupe and SPHP continued N to the tourist and railroad town of Jasper.  Lupe didn’t stay in Jasper long, though.  Soon Lupe and SPHP were heading NW on Yellowhead Highway No. 16 toward British Columbia.  It was a beautiful evening for a drive through the Canadian Rockies, but had been another long day, too.  As SPHP drove, the weary American Dingo snoozed on her pile of blankets and pillows.

In Mount Robson Provincial Park, SPHP stopped the G6 at a long pullout near Yellowhead Lake.  The lake was hidden by trees.  Lupe and SPHP got out to take a look.  A trail led through the forest and down a very steep bank to reach the shore of the lake.

Lupe by the shore of scenic Yellowhead Lake in Mount Robson Provincial Park. Photo looks SW.
Lupe by the shore of scenic Yellowhead Lake in Mount Robson Provincial Park. Photo looks SW.

Yellowhead Lake was gorgeous, but unfortunately, there was no trail along the shore.  After a few minutes spent down by the lake admiring the view, Lupe and SPHP scrambled back up the steep bank.  The dense forest blocked any view of the lake.  Lupe’s last brief adventure of the day was spent sniffing around in the woods near Yellowhead Lake.

Lupe and SPHP drove on, but it was getting late.  The long Canadian twilight was fading.  Day was done.  Time to stop for the night.

The next morning, Mount Fitzwilliam was in view, tall and impressive in the early light.

Mt. Fitzwilliam looked very tall and impressive in the early morning light on 8-4-16. Photo looks ESE.
Mt. Fitzwilliam looked very tall and impressive in the early morning light on 8-4-16. Photo looks ESE.

However, Lupe and SPHP were already beyond Mt. Fitzwilliam.  Lupe wasn’t going back.  Today was a special day.  Today Lupe was going N, hundreds of miles farther N than she had ever been before!  Most of the day would be spent traveling, but not too far ahead were two more big Canadian waterfalls Lupe could visit along the way.  The first was Overlander Falls.

Overlander Falls on the Fraser River is in Mount Robson Provincial Park, within walking distance of the park headquarters.  SPHP parked the G6 at a trailhead along Yellowhead Hwy No. 16.  A sign at the trailhead displayed a simple map of the area.

This simple map was posted at the trailhead E of the Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters.
This simple map was posted at the trailhead E of the Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters.

Lupe was starting from the E end of the trail system, very close to Overlander Falls.  A wide, well-worn path led into the forest from the highway.  At first, the path lost elevation gradually, but as the roar of the falls grew louder, the trail started switchbacking down a steep slope.

In only 10 minutes, Lupe was at Overlander Falls.  The falls weren’t high at all, but a tremendous volume of beautiful icy blue green water spilled over the brink into a vast swirling pool below.

Overlander Falls wasn't high, but a tremendous volume of beautiful icy blue green water spilled over the brink into a vast swirling pool below.
Overlander Falls wasn’t high, but a tremendous volume of beautiful icy blue green water spilled over the brink into a vast swirling pool below.
Overlander Falls is one of two significant waterfalls on the Fraser River. The other one is Rearguard Falls farther downstream.
Overlander Falls is one of two significant waterfalls on the Fraser River. The other one is Rearguard Falls farther downstream.

A plaque near the falls told the story of how Overlander Falls got its name.

This plaque at the falls relates the history of how Overlander Falls got its name.
This plaque at the falls relates the history of how Overlander Falls got its name.
Lupe at Overlander Falls, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Canada.
Lupe at Overlander Falls, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Canada.
The cool mist from Overlander Falls felt good!

Since most of Lupe’s day was going to be spent traveling in the G6, the 1.6 km Overlander Falls trail along the Fraser River to the Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters was an appealing option.  No one was around yet, and the trail would provide a peaceful, secluded path through the forest along the scenic blue green river.  Lupe could get some exercise, and SPHP would enjoy the views.  Lupe was most definitely in favor of the idea!

The Fraser River below Overlander Falls.

As it turned out, the Overlander Falls trail did not stay down near the river.  Instead, it paralleled the river mostly 40 to 80 feet above it on the forested slope.  The Fraser River was only occasionally in view.  The trail was in good condition, but didn’t look like it sees an awful lot of use, perhaps because there are trails to more dramatic destinations nearby.  (See Lupe’s fabulous hike to Mount Robson and Berg Lake in 2013 on the Berg Lake Trail!)

The Overlander Falls trail was fairly level most of the time, and an easy hike.  It passed Hogan’s camp, established way back when the railroad was being built.  The Carolina Dog was not too impressed.  Hogan’s camp now amounts to nothing more than a few rotting logs.  However, Lupe did enjoy sniffing and exploring in the forest along the trail.  She found a few squirrels to bark at, which made her day.

Lupe at one of the few viewpoints above the Fraser River along the Overlander Falls Trail.
Lupe at one of the few viewpoints above the Fraser River along the Overlander Falls Trail.
Fraser River from the Overlander Falls trail.

At the W end of the Overlander Falls trail, Lupe came to a road at a bridge across the Fraser River.  There was no trailhead at this end, just a small sign near the bridge pointing out the trail.  Downstream from the bridge was a bend in the Fraser River.  Lupe and SPHP went down to the river’s edge so Lupe could get a drink.

Lupe along the Fraser River. The Overlander Falls trail heads upstream from the N side of the bridge seen over the river. A small sign on the upstream side of the road at the start of the bridge is the only indication of the trail’s presence. Photo looks upstream.

Overlander Falls trail sign, Mt. Robson PP, Canada 8-4-16After the American Dingo had her drink from the Fraser River, Lupe and SPHP took the road another 0.25 km to the Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters on the N side of Yellowhead Hwy No. 16.  Unfortunately, the sky had been clouding up.  The summit of Mt. Robson was hidden from view.

Lupe made it to Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters, but sadly the summit of Mount Robson (behind the visitor center) was hidden in the clouds.
Lupe made it to Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters, but sadly the summit of Mount Robson (behind the visitor center) was hidden in the clouds.

Lupe and SPHP returned to the Overlander Falls trail.  On the way back to the G6, tragedy struck.  Excited by a squirrel, while leaping around in the thick underbrush, Lupe got her right front dewclaw got hooked on something.  Her dewclaw snapped completely off!  It was painful and bled a little, but not much.  The wounded Carolina Dog looked to SPHP for help.

Lupe returns to the Overlander Falls trail.
Lupe in pain with a snapped off right front dewclaw looks to SPHP for help. This photo is typical of the Overlander Falls trail as it went through the deep forest near the Fraser River.

SPHP examined Lupe’s paw, kissed the terrible wound many times, and gave Lupe lots of attention.  When that didn’t cure it, SPHP carried Lupe along the trail.

Naturally, her right front paw hurt where the dewclaw had snapped off right at the base.  Lupe was certain she couldn’t go on.  Until she could.  After 15 minutes of being carted around like a sack of potatoes, at Hogan’s camp Lupe decided she could manage on her own just fine.  Back at the G6, Dr. SPHP applied anti-biotic ointment and a bandage (9:55 AM).

Lupe recuperating in the G6 with her right front paw with the snapped off dewclaw all bandaged up.

Lupe’s adventures (and misadventures) at Overlander Falls were complete.  Time to get back on the road again (10:12 AM), but only for a short stretch.  Lupe had very little chance to recuperate before reaching the trailhead for Rearguard Falls.  She did fine anyway.

This sign at the Rearguard Falls trailhead told of the end of the salmon’s struggle here in their quest to swim up the Fraser River.

The trail to Rearguard Falls wasn’t very long.  Lupe soon came to an elaborate system of walkways with metal railings near the falls.  Like Overlander Falls, Rearguard Falls wasn’t all that high.  Rearguard Falls was almost more like a cascade.  It was still impressive and very beautiful.  Lupe and SPHP stayed at Rearguard Falls for close to an hour.

Rearguard Falls on the Fraser River. Rearguard Falls is downstream from Overlander Falls.
Rearguard Falls on the Fraser River. Rearguard Falls is downstream from Overlander Falls.
Lupe on the boardwalks leading to Rearguard Falls.
Lupe on the boardwalks leading to Rearguard Falls.
Rearguard Falls in Rearguard Falls Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.
Lupe probably would have liked to soak her painful dewclaw wound in the cold waters of Rearguard Falls.
Lupe probably would have liked to soak her painful dewclaw wound in the cold waters of Rearguard Falls.
Looking downstream.

Part of the reason Lupe was at Rearguard Falls so long was that other people kept coming and going.  Some of them had very fancy cameras they set up on tripods.  At the closest viewpoint next to the falls, several photographers set up their tripods in succession, each one occupying the coveted spot continuously for 15 or 20 minutes.

It didn’t matter to Lupe or SPHP how long they took.  The stunningly beautiful river, the hypnotic roar of the falls both soothing and powerful, the mountain scenery, and perfect weather made Rearguard Falls a great place to be.  Waiting for a turn at the closest viewpoint, SPHP chatted with people, while Lupe relaxed or enjoyed being admired and petted by friendly tourists.

One lady was here with her husband (who was busy with his camera and tripod at the coveted spot) and two sons.  They were from the Netherlands.  She said they had saved money for 10 years to come to Canada.  Eventually they were going to sail up the inland passage on the Pacific Ocean near the end of their trip.  They loved Canada, and were having a fabulous time!

Finally, it was Lupe’s turn at the closest spot to Rearguard Falls.  Two photos, a final lingering look, and Lupe’s time at Rearguard Falls was over (11:31 AM).

Lupe at the coveted spot closest to Rearguard Falls.
Lupe at the coveted spot closest to Rearguard Falls.

Lupe and SPHP spent nearly all the rest of the day traveling on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16.  Both Lupe and SPHP were farther N than they had ever been before.  Lupe was entering a whole new world!

NW of the junction with Hwy 5, traffic on Hwy 16 greatly diminished.  Almost everyone else had turned S on Hwy 5 heading for Kamloops.  Lupe was in a valley miles wide, with a wall of high mountains on each side.  Nearly all the land was forested, but at first there were some farms and fields near the highway, too.  Haystacks were abundant, but curiously, not livestock.  Lupe watched diligently for a long time, but saw only one herd of cows to bark at.

After a while, the farms and fields disappeared.  On both sides of the valley, the high mountains were getting progressively smaller and more distant.  Unbroken forest stretched in every direction as far the eye could see.  Despite being in what appeared to be a complete wilderness, no wildlife was seen except for ravens picking at roadkill.

With no cows or horses to bark at, and no wildlife to hold her attention, Lupe’s eyelids began to droop.  Soon she was snoozing, as the countless miles of endless forest went by.  To SPHP, it was all increasingly magical, to be here, at last, with Lupe in a wilderness that stretched ahead for not only hundreds, but literally thousands of miles, heading toward the unknown.

With no cows or horses to bark at, and no wildlife to hold her attention, Lupe drifted off to a peaceful sleep on her way to more adventures as the miles flew by. Maybe her snooze wasn't all peaceful? While in Dingo Dreamland, sometimes her lips and paws twitched.
With no cows or horses to bark at, and no wildlife to hold her attention, Lupe drifted off to a peaceful sleep on her way to more adventures as the miles flew by. Maybe her snooze wasn’t all peaceful? While in Dingo Dreamland, sometimes her lips and paws twitched.

Granted, what lay ahead wasn’t completely unknown.  SPHP had maps and descriptions, had seen photos online, and had a general plan for Lupe’s 2016 Dingo Vacation adventures.  All that was helpful, necessary and informative to a degree, but only scratched the surface of the possibilities and realities in this gigantic new territory Lupe was traveling through.  And all the preparations weren’t the same as finally being here, actually seeing it all for the very first time.

The mountains were gone, replaced by distant blue ridges, by the time Lupe neared Prince George.  Lupe woke up as the G6 slowed entering the city.  Prince George turned out to be a lively and attractive city situated along the scenic Fraser River.  It was the only large town Lupe would see in all of British Columbia.  SPHP made a couple of stops for gas and groceries.

As Hwy 16 headed WNW from Prince George, farms and fields appeared again, carved out of the seemingly limitless forest.  To Lupe, the open fields meant cows and horses.  This time the Carolina Dog wasn’t disappointed.  Although most of the fields were full of haystacks and bales, Lupe did see lots of cows and horses.  She got plenty of most satisfying barking in.  Now and then she had to stop long enough to slurp up water to wet her poor overworked parched barker.

At a rest stop near Cluculz Lake, Lupe and SPHP devoured half of a whole roasted chicken purchased in Prince George, while a rain shower passed over.  Between the exciting cows and horses, and tasty roasted chicken, Lupe was very much revived.  Back on the road again, she remained awake and watchful.

The long drive was marvelously relaxing.  Lush green fields surrounded by dark forests appeared, and subsequently retreated from view.  Distant blue ridges defined the horizon.  Gray white clouds drifted across a partly sunny blue sky, trailing rain dark streaks of rain behind them.  For a long time, the G6 said it was a perfect 71°F out.

The green fields closer to Prince George gradually disappeared, swallowed by the primal forest.  Lupe passed through a few small towns of significance – Vanderhoof, Fraser Lake, and Burns Lake.  The farther Lupe went, the less traffic remained on the road.  The sun was low by the time Lupe reached Houston, a tiny, quiet community near the Bulkley River.

In Houston, right alongside Yellowhead Highway No. 16, was a very beautiful small park with a fountain, manicured lawn, and a profusion of vibrantly colored flowers.  Here Lupe and SPHP stopped to stretch their legs and admire Houston’s crown jewel, in the little time remaining while it was all still aglow in the sharply slanting rays of earth’s sinking star.

Lupe reached beautiful Steelhead Park in Houston, British Columbia near day's end.
Lupe reached beautiful Steelhead Park in Houston, British Columbia near day’s end.
Steelhead Park was full of a dazzling array of colorful flowers in perfect condition.
Lupe near the fountain.
Lupe near the fountain.
It must take an enormous amount of work to keep Steelhead Park looking so immaculately manicured. The entire park was in tip top shape!
Rainbow trout and steelheads are the same species, but live very different lives. Rainbow trout live their lives entirely in fresh water, while steelheads are anadromous, meaning they spend part of their lives in the sea.

Lupe at Steelhead Park, Houston, British Columbia, Canada 8-4-16And so, for now, we leave American Dingo explorer and adventurer Lupe in the little town of Houston, deep in northern British Columbia, at the end of Day 6 of her super fabulous Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation among the brilliant blossoms of Steelhead Park.

At Steelhead Park, Houston, British Columbia, Canada 8-4-16

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Overlander Falls, Rearguard Falls & Ancient Forest, British Columbia, Canada (8-2-17)

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