Day 10 & Part One of Day 11 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
8-1-23, Whitehorse, Yukon Territory –
Are you ready yet, SPHP? It’s already noon! I thought you bought all the supplies we needed yesterday?
Sorry, Loopster. I thought so, too, but I keep thinking of additional things that would be nice to have, and it will be a long time before we get another chance to acquire them once we leave town. Anyway, that’s about it. Just need to check on the weather and Dempster Highway road conditions, and we’ll be on our way.
Ugh! Why, SPHP? They told you at the visitor center only yesterday that the Dempster Highway reopened 2 days ago. Do we really have to go back there again?
A mighty long stretch of the Dempster had been closed due to wildfires, Loop – all the way from the Ogilvie River way past Eagle Plains. They warned me that part of it might get closed down again. However, we don’t have to go back to the visitor center. They said I can check for updates on 511yukon.ca. Might as well do it while we’ve still got cell service. No sense in driving clear up there if fires closed the highway again.
Seems incredible to think that wildfires could be that bad so far N, SPHP.
Yeah, absolutely nuts, isn’t it, Loop? Hardly believe it myself. Hmm. Let’s see here. Good news! The Dempster Highway is still open. 80% chance of rain today and the next several days in Faro, so there goes that potential side trip on the way there. Too bad! Guess we might as well head straight N to the Dempster.
And then on to Tuktoyaktuk, Land of the Pingos, SPHP!
8-1-23, 12:39 PM, N. Klondike Hwy No. 2, Fox Lake – Yesterday afternoon a rain shower had cleared the air in Whitehorse, but as Lupe peered into Fox Lake from the dock by the campground boat ramp, a familiar white haziness was in the air, especially toward the horizon. Not a good sign.
Sign at the entrance to the Fox Lake campground.Out on the Fox Lake campground dock. Photo looks SW.Fox Lake from the dock. Photo looks NW.Peering into the cold, green, watery world of Fox Lake.Along the shore. Photo looks SSE.
8-1-23, 2:57 PM, 80ºF – The smoke really wasn’t all that bad at Fox Lake, but by the time Lupe got to Five Finger Rapids on the Yukon River, it was considerably worse. Although the Carolina Dog was already well N of Carmacks and the turn E toward Faro where there was supposedly an 80% chance of rain today, the afternoon was sunny, warm, and dry. In fact, it was just plain hot in a fur coat.
The Five Finger Rapids sign looked older than it used to be. Weeds grew among the thirsty flowers in the planter beneath it. The view deck and wooden stairway down to the trail to the rapids were more weathered than SPHP remembered, too.
At the Five Finger Rapids Recreation Site N of Carmacks.Five Finger Rapids from the upper view deck near the N Klondike Hwy. Photo looks SW.One of the informational displays at the upper view deck.Another upper deck display.
Despite the heat and smoke-marred views, Lupe made her traditional 0.76 km trek down to the observation deck near the rapids. At least the islands among the once dangerous rapids could be clearly seen from here.
On the partially shaded trail to the lower observation deck.Yukon River from the lower deck. Photo looks WSW.Five Finger Rapids. Photo looks NW.Display at the lower observation deck.Area map.
Lupe panted hard in the heat on the way back up the 219 step staircase leading to the parking area. Continuing the drive N along N Klondike Highway No. 2, SPHP ran the RAV4’s AC. Meanwhile the temperature outside continued to inch higher.
Ascending the long wooden staircase.
8-1-23, 5:02 PM, 82ºF – After fueling up the RAV4 at Pelly Crossing and driving across the bridge, SPHP parked at the turnout overlooking the Pelly River.
Pelly River at Pelly Crossing. Photo looks SW.Brief history of the Pelly Crossing region.Regional map.
The smoke doesn’t seem to be getting any better, SPHP.
I know it, Loopster. Keep thinking we ought to drive out of it, but it’s been smoky for more than a thousand miles since we first noticed a haze in the air after leaving Smithers way back in British Columbia. Not sure what to do about it, except keep driving. Sooner or later, there’s got to be an end.
What happens if there isn’t, SPHP? What if the smoke extends all the way to Tuktoyaktuk?
Clear to the Arctic Ocean, Loopster? That can’t be! Simply not possible! We’ll drive out of it somewhere along the way. You’ll see.
I’m starting to wonder, SPHP. The wildfires must have been bad if they closed the Dempster Highway at Eagle Plains, and that’s still a long way N.
The Dempster is open now, Loop. Maybe they got some rain in the past few days? Eagle Plains has been a monsoon every time we’ve ever been there. Remember fleeing the freezing rain that turned to snow back in 2019? We were lucky we didn’t get stuck, and that the Ogilvie River didn’t sweep us away that night. It was practically over the highway the next morning where we parked.
True enough, SPHP, but that was then, and this is now. And like you say, we’ve been through 1,000 miles of smoke already.
8-1-23, 6:01 PM – An hour later, SPHP stopped again at Stewart Crossing to have a look at the displays and let Lupe stretch her legs.
The Silver Trail starts at Stewart Crossing.Stewart Crossing display.The Silver Trail.Mayo Road history. The Mayo Road is the Silver Trail.
Don’t forget Keno Hill way up in the fog and mist and that crazy mileage signpost where we parked, Loop.
We could sure use some of that fog and mist today, SPHP!
True enough, and from the Stewart Crossing bridge there did seem to be at least a glimmer of hope. Looking upstream, the way the Mayo Road went, the smoke wasn’t quite as thick as it had been. Unfortunately, in the downstream direction, the way N Klondike Highway No. 2 went, the smoke was as thick as before.
At the Stewart Crossing bridge. Photo looks S.Stewart River upstream view. Photo looks SE.Stewart River looking downstream from Stewart Crossing. Photo looks W.
NW of Stewart Crossing large regions of burnt boreal forest appeared. However, none of it was on fire now. Judging from the green grass and bushes already reemerging on the forest floor, it seemed these areas had burned during some recent prior year.
Beyond the burnt regions, N Klondike Hwy No. 2 deteriorated. The RAV4 raised great clouds of dust on long stretches where the pavement had been stripped away. A great swath of trees had been bulldozed, making the road enormously wide.
N Klondike Highway No. 2 NW of Stewart Crossing. Photo looks NW.
The farther SPHP drove, the worse shape these construction zones were in. Bumping along, weaving among ruts and soft spots, the speed limit dropped to 30 km per hour. Despite what ought to have been excellent weather for road construction, there was no sign of activity. Eventually, enormous pieces of machinery were seen strewn motionless along the edge of the highway, like rusting dinosaurs whose epoch had come to a sudden, unexpected end.
Feels like we’re driving into the apocalypse, SPHP, like it’s the end of the world and time itself!
It was hard to disagree. Finally reaching the turnout that doubled as a Tintina Trench viewpoint, the displays that used to be here were gone. Only a limited smoke-marred view of the trench remained beyond the bushes growing up to hide it.
A hazy view of the Tintina Trench. Photo looks NNW.
8-1-23, 8:40 PM – It wasn’t much farther to the Dempster Highway. 20 more km, and the American Dingo was there. All was quiet as the sun sank into murky clouds in a pale orange sky. SPHP was surprised to see a new unattended gas station. The old one, which had finally upgraded its ancient pumps, now advertised itself as “discount gas” for the bargain price of $1.899 per liter.
At the S end of Dempster Highway No. 5. Photo looks W.
SPHP filled the RAV4’s tank.
On to Tuktoyaktuk, SPHP?
Heh, I don’t know, Loop. Let’s hang out here near the Dempster Highway display for a little while. Maybe someone will come along who can give us a report on what it’s actually like farther N?
Lupe didn’t have long to wait. 10 minutes, and 3 motorcyclists came roaring across the bridge over the N. Klondike River. Sure enough, they pulled right up onto the display’s gravel pad and stopped.
Stay in the RAV4, Loop. I’ll find out what they have to say.
SPHP met 2 middle-aged men and a younger one, who was the son of one of the older men. Their uniforms were coated with dust, and the dad had some trouble, moving gingerly. After SPHP volunteered to take group photos next to the display for each of them on their phones, they were willing to chat for a few minutes about their Dempster Highway experience before roaring away.
So what did the motorcyclists say, SPHP? How far N did they go? Is the road still open all the way to Tuktoyaktuk? Where does the smoke end?
It was an incredible tale, Loopster. Yes, the road is open. These guys went all the way to Tuktoyaktuk, but it was smoky the entire way, even at the Arctic Ocean! They didn’t get to see much of anything except smoke. Eagle Plains was awful. Even worse, both older men crashed their bikes, one at a spot where the highway suddenly turned from gravel to river rocks. He suffered a concussion and has several cracked ribs. The young guy’s dad said he was glad that he’s done the Dempster Highway once now, but that he’s never, ever coming back.
Oh, my gosh! That’s terrible, SPHP, but river rock won’t crash the RAV4. Are we still going N?
Sheesh, I don’t know, Looper. Let me ponder it. How can the dang smoke extend clear to the Arctic Ocean? Yet it does. Kind of pointless, if we can’t see anything. I told those guys that we wanted to climb some mountains. They all said we could get to Tuktoyaktuk if we wanted to, but thought that climbing mountains in the smoke was nuts – a really bad idea.
Well, while you ponder, can we at least get out of the RAV4 for a while, SPHP?
Sure, let’s take a stroll over to the bridge.
The walk to the Dempster Highway bridge over the N. Klondike River was a short one. Soon Lupe was standing at the start of the bridge with the road that was to have provided access to many adventures during this Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation beckoning beyond her.
The road to adventure! At the Dempster Highway bridge over the N. Klondike River. Photo looks E.
Alright. I’ve decided. We can’t give up so easily, can we, Loop? We’ve come such a long way already to get here.
Does that mean we’re going on to Tuktoyaktuk, SPHP?
We’ll see. Let’s just take it one day at a time. Sooner or later the smoke’s got to clear. It’s not far to Tombstone Territorial Park. Maybe we can do something there tomorrow?
That sounds terrific, SPHP! I love Tombstone Park.
Returning to the RAV4, the Carolina Dog’s long anticipated journey N on the Dempster Highway began. Driving over the bridge and 4 miles past it, SPHP then parked at a wide spot near a side road. After hitting 82ºF and staying there for hours during the afternoon, the evening had now cooled off into the upper 60’s.
What’s wrong, SPHP?
Cheese and crackers, Loopster?
Sure, SPHP, but why did we stop? Are we spending the night here?
What’s wrong, SPHP?
SPHP kept feeding Lupe cheese and crackers and munching away on them, too, for a while before answering.
Nope. Not spending the night here. This isn’t going to work. I already caught a glimpse of the Ogilvie Mountains ahead. Barely. The smoke is terrible, Loop. There’s a huge plume drifting into them from somewhere off to the SE. Must be big fires nearby.
So, what are we going to do, SPHP?
Alaska, Loopster! Maybe skies are blue there?
And this is it for all of the Dempster Highway adventures we had planned?
Not necessarily, Loop. Perhaps we can come back later on.
8-1-23, 11:11 PM – Fortunately, Carolina Dog are flexible planners. Lupe was unfazed. The evening air was pleasantly cool as she stood atop the ancient, decaying, over-sized bench atop Midnight Dome(2,887 ft.). Unsurprisingly, air quality still hadn’t improved in the least. The views of Dawson City and the mighty Yukon River were all marred by smoke.
On the ancient wood bench atop Midnight Dome. Photo looks S.The Yukon River from behind the bench. Photo looks NW.Dawson City from Midnight Dome. Photo looks SE.How Midnight Dome got its name.
8-2-23, 6:19 AM – Of course, the Dempster Highway wasn’t all that far back, and there had always been a chance that the sky would clear by morning. No such luck! Returning to Midnight Dome’s summit, Lupe had a final look around before SPHP drove back down the mountain.
Morning at the ancient Midnight Dome bench. Photo looks SW.
During a brief tour of Dawson City, Lupe visited the S. S. Keno, had a look at some of the shops, and hung out with a wooly mammoth, before SPHP decided it was time to get in line for the George Black ferry across the Yukon River to the Top of the World Highway.
Dawson City.A few of the shops.The historic S. S. Keno, which once plied the Yukon River.Hanging out with a wooly mammoth.About wooly mammoths in the Yukon.In line for the ferry.Crossing the Yukon River aboard the George Black ferry.
8-2-23, 12:40 PM – Crossing the Yukon River aboard the ferry took less than 10 minutes. After climbing out of the river valley, a long, ordinarily scenic drive winding W atop enormous, gently rounded ridges ensued, passing Cassiar Dome, Swede Dome, and many others along the way.
The smoky haze made the drive less thrilling today, but as SPHP parked the RAV4 on a ridge near the W end of the Canadian part of the Top of the World Highway, there seemed to be hope of improvement. Off to the NW, the sky looked bluer.
C’mon, Loopster! Let’s go for a romp. Davis Dome (4124 ft.) is in sight past US/Canadian customs. We’re almost to Alaska!
Davis Dome (L), US/Canadian customs (R) in the distance. Photo looks WNW.
A huge cairn Lupe had been to years ago still sat atop a hill just N of the highway. The American Dingo revisited it for a last look back into the Yukon before continuing on into Alaska.
Looking ENE back into the Yukon from the huge cairn.
As usual, Lupe breezed through US customs, entering Alaska without a hitch. The winding drive now continued SW on a beautiful new paved stretch of highway past Davis Dome all the way to Jack Wade Junction where the pavement ended and Taylor Highway No. 5 turned N on its way to Eagle on the Yukon River.
The Carolina Dog had never been any farther than Steele Creek Dome in that direction, and wasn’t bound that way today, either. Instead, SPHP continued driving SW on the Taylor Highway, which went down the Jack Wade Creek valley, crossed the South Fork of the Fortymile River, and wound around Lost Chicken Hill (2,150 ft.) shortly before reaching the historic gold mining community of Chicken, Alaska.
8-2-23, 1:33 PM ADT, 75ºF, Chicken, Alaska – After SPHP filled the RAV4’s tank at the Gold Panner, Lupe visited the big chickens out front.
Chicken, Alaska
Still some smoke around, SPHP, but it doesn’t seem too bad – certainly an improvement over conditions back at the start of the Dempster Highway. Maybe coming to Alaska was the right thing to do after all?
I sure hope so, Loop. I’m ready to do something other than drive forever. No more than an hour to Mount Fairplay(5,541 ft.) from here. Want to climb it again this afternoon? Been 4 years since we’ve been there.
Mount Fairplay? That would be awesome, SPHP! Onward, RAV4 ho!
Days 8 & 9 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
7-30-29, 7:30 AM, 59ºF, S Klondike Hwy No. 2, 4.5 miles S of Canadian Customs –
Not too bad, but it’s kind of smoky. Are we still going to do this, SPHP?
Disappointing, I know, Loopster. Really wish we had a super clear day for Taiya Peak(6,844 ft.), but it’s been on your list of possibilities for years. How many more chances are we ever going to get at it this far from home?
So, it’s a go, SPHP?
Might be now or never, Loop, so yes. Onward! Puppy, ho!
Her lofty objective already in sight, Lupe crossed the highway near the Summit Creek sign, then headed N across a rumpled region of bedrock, low bushes, scattered stunted evergreens, and tundra.
Taiya Peak (Center) from S Klondike Hwy No. 2. Photo looks NW.
Progress was excellent on this relatively easy terrain. Within just a few minutes, the American Dingo reached a small tarn.
See those 2 mountains we’re heading for, Looper?
Of course. What about them? We don’t have to go clear over there do we?
Heavens no! We only need to get up onto that lower ridge in front of them, Loopster, before turning toward Taiya Peak. However, that mountain on the L is Peak 1769m, and the one on the R is Fraser Peak(5,978 ft.).
Oh, I remember Fraser Peak, SPHP! The views were spectacular! That’s where we first got a good look at Taiya Peak, isn’t it?
That’s right, Loop. I knew you’d remember.
Peak 1769m (L) and Fraser Peak (R) from the first tarn. Photo looks NNW.
After passing the tarn, Lupe found her way over to Summit Creek’s rocky exposed floodplain. The trek N along the E side of the beautiful stream was easy and fun, but didn’t last long. The stream soon meandered over to the E side of the channel, forcing the Carolina Dog up onto a parallel wall of rock 20 feet higher.
Lupe was once again up on the tundra traveling over rumpled terrain when Summit Creek suddenly made a sharp turn NW away from the wall of rock, causing a search for a way to scramble back down next to the creek. Another short trek on the floodplain ensued before the stream forced Lupe back up onto an 8 foot high bank.
On the rock wall overlooking Summit Creek. Peak 1769m (L), Fraser Peak (R of Center). Photo looks NNW.Below the wall where Summit Creek turned NW. Photo looks SSE.Following Summit Creek. Taiya Peak (L), Peak 1769m (R). Photo looks NW.Taiya Peak (Center) and Summit Creek from a particularly pretty spot. Photo looks NW.
Up on the bank, a level plain completely overgrown with willows waist to chest high on SPHP extended a good 250 meters N. Lupe couldn’t see a thing as she followed SPHP bushwhacking slowly through the willow thicket by whatever route seemed easiest. The situation didn’t improve much upon reaching a dense forest of evergreens on higher ground.
Heading NW toward the big ridge leading to Taiya Peak, Lupe managed to get high enough to break out of the trees onto a tundra slope, which made progress much easier. However, the tundra quickly led up to the top of a hill with a cliff edge and a big tarn below it blocking any further progress W.
Blocked by a cliff and a tarn. Fraser Peak (L of Center). Photo looks N.Taiya Peak (L) from the same spot. Ridge Lupe needed to get to (R). Photo looks NW.
Down and around, SPHP?
No other choice, Loopster.
The hill Lupe was on wasn’t that big, so it didn’t take long to retreat NE down into a little valley, then climb up onto a reasonably flat stretch of tundra. However, quite a bit of forest was still ahead on the lower slopes of the ridge Lupe was trying to get to, and the terrain was fairly rugged with sudden drops and near vertical climbs.
Staying on tundra whenever possible, Lupe had to venture quite a long way N before turning WNW seemed feasible. Even then, progress was often extremely slow trying to force a way up some of the steep, densely forested slopes. However, Lupe finally managed to get up above most of the trees to a flat spot with a view looking back toward Summit Lake near S Klondike Hwy No. 2.
On a nice stretch of tundra. Fraser Peak (L). Photo looks N.Above the worst of the forest looking back at Summit Lake. Photo looks S.
Amazing territory was now ahead. As the remaining trees thinned out, Lupe easily avoided them. Climbing WNW, Lupe explored a maze of bedrock benches, ramps, small streams, and hidden tarns. For a long way, it was possible to look back and still see the RAV4 as a bright blue dot parked in front of Summit Lake down by S. Klondike Hwy No. 2.
The higher the American Dingo went, the rockier the world became.
Exploring rugged territory near treeline. Peak 1769m (L of Center), Fraser Peak (R). Photo looks NNW.One of the larger tarns (R). Fraser Peak (L). Photo looks N.Entering the world of rock. Photo looks WNW.
7-30-23, 9:16 AM – Although the angle of incline was diminishing, Lupe never seemed to get to the top of the ridge she was climbing. However, upon reaching a giant boulder sitting on the bedrock that dominated the landscape, the top of Taiya Peak was back in view for the first time in a while now.
By the giant boulder. Taiya Peak (R). Photo looks WNW.
Continuing gradually higher beyond this boulder, more of Taiya Peak kept coming into sight. Lupe crossed many long gashes in the bedrock oriented perpendicular to her route, descending into each one before having to regain all her lost elevation and more climbing out again. Sometimes small streams were in these gashes, or even a bit of snow.
To the SW, the sharp pinnacle of Feather Peak(5,889 ft.) came into view with Mount Cleveland(6,362 ft.), Mount Carmack(6,808 ft.) and many other peaks grouped beyond it. Much closer, Peak6053, which Lupe had climbed nearly 5 years ago, appeared toward the WSW.
More of Taiya Peak (R) comes into view. Peak 6053 (L). Photo looks W.Mount Carmack (Center) in the distance. Feather Peak (R), Mount Cleveland (far R). Photo looks SW.Crossing one of the many gashes. Photo looks SW.
The scenery was incredible and exploring this amazing territory was enormous fun. Fortunately, the Luck of the Dingo was excellent. Lupe usually reached the gashes she came to near breaks in the cliff walls along each side, which made it relatively easy to scramble down into them and back out again.
Closing in on Taiya Peak, the gashes increased in size. Near the end, the Carolina Dog came to 3 gashes that were particularly big, with lines of cliffs along their borders ranging from 20 to 50 feet high. One of these gashes was much wider than any of the others and full of vegetation.
Closing in on Taiya Peak (R). Peak 6053 (L). Photo looks W.Above one of the gashes. Peak 1769m (L), Fraser Peak (R of Center). Photo looks N.Feather Peak (L) and Peak 6053 (R) from the edge of another gash. Photo looks SW.Down in one of the deepest gashes. Photo looks NNE.Climbing back out. Photo looks N.Taiya Peak (Center) dead ahead. Photo looks WNW.Exploring the widest gash. Fraser Peak (L of Center) in the distance. Photo looks NNE.
Near the base of Taiya Peak, the roar of water could be heard ahead. Lupe soon reached the edge of a final gash containing a much larger stream than any other the others she’d come to tumbling steeply down this narrow ravine.
Along the edge of the final gash. Feather Peak (R), Mount Cleveland (R edge). Photo looks S.
Crossing the stream and its powerful flow in this deep ravine appeared treacherous. Happily, the upper end of the gash was only a little farther upstream. Turning N, Lupe went far enough to get above the spot where the stream plunged into the gash in a line of waterfalls along the W edge.
Above this spot the gap was non-existent and the stream was shallow, all spread out in a beautiful green oasis of tundra and wildflowers. Off in the distance to the NW, a long waterfall cascaded off a ridge into a wide bowl still hidden above.
Taiya Peak from the shallow stream above the last gash. Photo looks WNW.The upstream view toward the hidden bowl. Photo looks NNW.
Wouldn’t it be fun to explore upstream all the way to that big waterfall, SPHP? We could even climb that ridge and see what’s beyond it, too!
Yes, of course! That would be fantastic, Loop, but I’m afraid we can’t do that, if we ever intend to make it to the top of Taiya Peak.
After a short, wistful break by the lovely stream spent contemplating that enticing bowl to the NW, Lupe waded across. The American Dingo then followed the stream back down to the waterfalls where it plunged into the gap. There she turned WSW, abandoning this beautiful region to start up the rocky slopes forming the base of Taiya Peak.
Starting up Taiya Peak. Photo looks W.
As the terrain steadily steepened, SPHP frequently paused to gasp for air. At first, Lupe still came to spots with a fair amount of greenery where she could relax on the soft vegetation while SPHP took short breathers. However, these patches of tundra became increasingly rare.
The mountain soon became quite an aggressive climb. The American Dingo scrambled up steep walls of talus. Fortunately, they often led to much flatter benches where usually another stretch of somewhat easier terrain existed above before an assault on the next wall would have to begin. As she gained elevation, Lupe’s winding WSW course gradually turned NW.
Having read online that it was important to stay S of an E ridge, which seemed poorly defined in the field, SPHP encouraged the Carolina Dog to take advantage of every opportunity to angle SW, but the terrain rarely cooperated.
Taking a break right before the climb steepened significantly. Feather Peak (L), Mount Cleveland (Center), Peak 6053 (R). Photo looks SW.Heading up a steep talus slope. Photo looks NW.On easier terrain again. Photo looks SW.Another wall of talus ahead. Photo looks WNW.Pausing on another patch of tundra. Photo looks NNE.
The benches and ledges Lupe reached were becoming narrower and less frequent. SPHP’s progress on the steep talus was painfully slow. The talus walls extended higher and higher, becoming so steep that whether or not this ascent could possibly be successful was continually in doubt.
Ever fewer and more difficult routes kept appearing above. Although Lupe displayed great scrambling ability, she began coming to places where SPHP had to give her a boost. Tiring, longer rest breaks were in order every time the American Dingo managed to reach one of the wider, safer ledges.
Relaxing on one of the larger benches. Mount Carmack & Feather Peak (L), Mount Cleveland (L of Center), Peak 6053 (Center). Photo looks SW.
After gaining many hundreds of feet, Lupe came to a talus slope that wasn’t as steep. Climbing NW, she reached a long snowbank she was able to follow WSW. Above it, another steep talus slope finally led to a big level bench of gritty tan soil. Taking another break here, the views were tremendous.
Looking E, Summit Lake was in sight down in the Tormented Valley. Lupe could see Summit Creek flowing into it, and the mighty range of unfamiliar mountains E of the valley. Looking SW, Lupe was already clearly higher than both Feather Peak(5,889 ft.) and Peak6053.
Approaching the long snowbank (L) Lupe was able to follow WSW. Photo looks NW.On another steep talus climb. Photo looks WNW.N half of Summit Lake from the gritty tan bench. Summit Creek (R). Photo looks ESE.Resting on the last big ledge. Mount Carmack (far L), Mount Cleveland (L), Peak 6053 (Center). Photo looks SW.
Wow, what a climb! Can’t go on like this much longer, can it, SPHP?
No, it can’t. According to the topo map, it ought to be getting noticeably easier any time now, Loopster. Not sure how accurate our GPS track is, but it says we’re already at 6,275 feet. If true, that puts us within less than 600 feet of the summit elevation-wise.
Continuing on, Lupe skirted WSW along the base of the 20 foot wall next to the ledge before reaching a place where she could climb above it. 60 feet higher, a magnificent sight appeared. To the NW, a long talus slope stretched toward what appeared to be Taiya Peak’s summit.
It was a moment of great joy.
Hah! Got’er made, Looper! We’re going to make it!
Taiya Peak (Center) from 6,333 feet. Photo looks NW.
Still a trudge, but the angle of ascent was much easier now. While SPHP hoped nothing too funky laid beyond what could be seen of the summit region, Lupe steadily closed the gap, alternately trotting over patches of the gritty tan soil or rock-hopping her way higher.
Closing in on the summit. Photo looks NW.
7-30-23, 3:46 PM, 68ºF, Taiya Peak(6,844 feet) – 50 feet from the SE end of a 200 foot long summit ridge, Lupe stood next to a cairn by the true summit with a grin on her face. Beyond her, the sky was disappointingly gray with smoke bad enough to seriously mar the views, but it could have been worse.
Almost due S, Mount Carmack(6,808 ft.), Feather Peak(5,889 ft.), and Mount Cleveland(6,362 ft.) were all still readily discernable despite the smoke. It was incredible to think that Lupe was now higher than all of them. Felt even stranger looking down on Peak6053 less than 2 miles SW, a magnificent peak in its own right practically on the border with Alaska, where the Carolina Dog had stood proudly nearly 5 years ago, gazing up at mighty Taiya Peak.
By the Taiya Peak summit cairn. Mount Carmack (L), Mount Cleveland (L of Center), Peak 6053 (Center). Photo looks SW.
As cherished as those views were, and as splendid as the sights were in all directions, in truth, it was the views to the W that had inspired this entire journey. Beyond the unseen depths of the giant Taiya River valley, where prospectors had once struggled against forbidding elements up the famous Chilkoot Trail from Dyea to the Yukon gold fields, a sea of glacier-clad peaks extended beyond vision.
Alaska! Forbidding, vast, remote, and frigidly white as in one’s wildest dreams. No one had ever stood on most of those unnamed peaks. It was like looking 20,000 years back into an ancient, long forgotten ice age.
Alaska from Taiya Peak. Photo looks W.
SPHP seized the American Dingo’s outstretched paw, and shook it most enthusiastically.
Congratulations, Lupe! 12.5 years old, and you made it all this way! I can’t believe it. I never thought we’d see this scene again, sweet puppy.
What? Of course, I made it! A remark like that is going to cost you every chocolate coconut bar in that pack, SPHP.
This was, in fact, the 4th time the Carolina Dog had seen this stunning view into Alaska, each time from a different vantage point. Lupe had first gazed up at Mount Hoffman(6,079 ft.) from a ridge at the far W end of the International Falls Trail in 2017. The very next day she saw Peak8239, the Skagway High Point, from Fraser Peak, and then again from Peak 6053 a year later.
However, Lupe had never enjoyed this scene from a perch as lofty as the one she now had on Taiya Peak before. Only the wretched smoke and weariness dampened the soaring mood of the occasion. Conditions were otherwise perfect – an incredible 68ºF with a lazy 5 mph SW breeze.
Peak 6053 (far L) and Mount Hoffman (R) both in the foreground. Peak 8239 (far R). Photo looks SW.Taiya Peak’s NW ridge (R) in the foreground. Photo looks NW.Mount Hoffman (R of Center) in the foreground. Peak 8239 (R). Photo looks WSW.
No vegetation at all existed up here, so Lupe had no comfortable spot to rest. However, immediately N of the cairn, the rock it sat on had a flat spot big enough to accommodate her. After an initial look at the views, SPHP used a jacket, a pullover, and another layer of clothing to make a bed for her there.
Resting next to the summit cairn (R). Photo looks ESE.The Tormented Valley (Center) 4,000 feet below from Taiya Peak. Photo looks ESE.
Lupe got her half-melted chocolate coconut bar reward, splitting it with SPHP. She then got to lick off the soft chocolate sticking to the wrapper, which she did with great enthusiasm, followed by plenty of water for all, and Taste of the Wild for Lupe. Satisfied, the Carolina Dog put her head down on SPHP’s jacket and snoozed.
For a while, SPHP gazed alone upon the splendors in all directions, but after a short nap, Lupe was awake, too, although not at all inclined to move from her comfy spot. SPHP sat next to her, stroking Lupe’s soft fur, and praising her for coming all this way.
7-30-23, 4:40 PM, Taiya Peak –
Your traditional summit hour is almost over, Looper.
We can’t leave yet, SPHP! Let’s have a more thorough look around first!
Fully intend to, Loop. We’re certainly in no rush to leave this awesome peak. Other than the dang smoke, it couldn’t be a more perfect day.
Finally getting up after this assurance, Lupe was ready for a leisurely summit tour. She began by making the 50 foot stroll over to the SW end of the summit ridge. At this end, the ridge was only about 15 feet wide, and the large rocks were encased in black lichens.
Naturally, the best views of the Feather Peak group and Peak 6053 were from here. Lupe also peered down on a glacier covering a significant portion of the region between Peak 6053 and Taiya Peak.
Mount Carmack (L of Center), Mount Cleveland (R of Center), Peak 6053 (far R). Photo looks SSW.Glacier between Peak 6053 and Taiya Peak (foreground). Mount Hoffman (Center), Peak 8239 (R of Center). Photo looks W.
Next, returning to the cairn, Lupe had a look at Summit Lake. If she’d had a pair of Dingo binoculars, she might have seen the RAV4 parked down along S Klondike Hwy No. 2.
Summit Lake (Center & R) from Taiya Peak. Photo looks ESE.
The summit ridge extended another 150 feet NE from the cairn. The ridge broadened out to 50 feet wide in this direction, and consisted of much lighter-colored scree bearing few of the black lichens.
Going out close to the far end, Peak 1769m, Fraser Peak(5,978 ft.), and Log Cabin Mountain(5,633 ft.) were all lined up to the NE. Part of Bryant Lake was in sight next to Fraser Peak, and in the distance, both the N end of Lindeman Lake and S end of Bennett Lake were in view.
NE end of the summit ridge (Center). Fraser Peak (R) in foreground. Tormented Valley (far R). Photo looks NE.Lindeman Lake & Bennet Lake (L) in the distance, Bryant Lake (Center). Peak 1769m, Fraser Peak, & Log Cabin Mountain lined up at (R). Photo looks NE.
From this end of the summit ridge, it was also possible to look down on the large glacier clinging to the N side of Taiya Peak. While most of the glistening white snow and ice appeared soft and gently rounded, several large crevasses were in sight, too.
Taiya Peak’s N side glacier (foreground). Photo looks NW.Lower end of the N glacier. Photo looks NNW with help from the telephoto lens.
Lupe occasionally returned briefly to her comfortable perch by the cairn as SPHP repeatedly wandered back and forth along the entire length of the summit ridge trying to take it all in, but usually she went right along with SPHP, staring out at the same incredible views.
Mount Carmack (Center), Mount Cleveland (R). Photos looks SSW with help from the telephoto lens.Taiya Peak’s NW ridge (Center, foreground). Photo looks NW.Mount Hoffman (L of Center, foreground), Peak 8239 (R of Center). Photo looks W.
7-30-23, 5:29 PM,Taiya Peak(6,844 ft.) – Alas, most of a second hour had already flown! 1.75 hours after arriving, Lupe stood next to the cairn for the last time, her front paws resting on the highest naturally placed rock.
At the true summit. Photo looks N.
Before entirely abandoning the summit region, Lupe returned to the SW end of the summit ridge one last time. A bit below it, she found a perch where that glorious view W into glacier-clad Alaska beckoned beyond.
Alaska from Taiya Peak. Photo looks W.
Looks like the mountains go on forever, doesn’t it, SPHP?
Yes, it does, sweet puppy! If only we could, too.
The magnificent fleeting moment passed. It was a long way back. The incredible, cherished scene vanished as soon as Lupe left her perch to head back down the mountain.
Starting the descent. Photo looks SE.
The iPhone battery was down to 22% by the time the Carolina Dog left the summit region, so SPHP had to use it sparingly during the return. Never a good scrambler, it took SPHP hours to carefully pick a way down the mountain’s steep talus. Lupe was forever waiting. She headed down staying farther S than during her ascent, but with no discernable benefit.
For a long way, a gigantic boulder cracked in half was visible far below. Even SPHP finally got down pretty close to it before turning NE to head for the large beautiful stream. Water supplies had run out on the way down the mountain, and the sun had set by the time Lupe reached the stream again. She drank deeply from it, and from every trickle and tarn thereafter.
Twilight lingered. In fading light on easier terrain again, SPHP hurried on. Weary, Lupe wanted to be done, and many short breaks were taken on a bit of soft tundra here or there. Although also exhausted, SPHP kept urging the American Dingo on, wanting to take as much advantage of what fading light there was as possible.
It never got completely dark. A glow was always visible in the N. Even so, the flashlight eventually had to come out. Lupe’s ascent route had been fairly efficient, and every time SPHP checked the iPhone, she was never far from her GPS track, yet nothing looked familiar in the gloom. Every minor high point revealed only another steep, black drop ahead.
The Carolina Dog kept reaching the biggest gashes at bad spots, forcing searches for practical routes down into them and back out again. Lupe seemed forced into one boulder field after another.
Fortunately, the night was extraordinarily mild. Eventually fog could be seen drifting N from White Pass, a gray ghost spreading gradually across the dark land.
The first trees appeared roughly 2 km from S Klondike Hwy No. 2. Lupe had been desperately begging SPHP to stop. Dreading the dense forest and willows that lay ahead in the night, SPHP finally relented.
Finding a soft patch of tundra, SPHP shared a chocolate mint Cliff bar with Lupe, last of the supplies other than a few peanuts. Layering up, SPHP then wrapped a jacket around the grateful American Dingo, and pulled her close. Lupe immediately put her head down and closed her eyes. It was 1:00 AM.
7-31-23, 4:30 AM, 3,300 feet – Really wasn’t all that cold out, but SPHP’s teeth chattered nevertheless.
Loopster, can you move? My left arm’s numb under you.
Seems a little lighter out, SPHP. I’m feeling better. Want to keep going?
SPHP turned on the flashlight.
Criminy! We’re in the fog, Loop. Can’t see much of anything, but maybe we should go? Might start to rain.
As it turned out, Lupe really wasn’t that close to the forest yet, and still had a fair amount of elevation to lose. Progress continued to be slow, but was better than last night. Eventually it was light enough to turn off the flashlight, and possible to see some distance through the fog.
Greatly revived by her 3.5 hour snooze, Lupe no longer complained, but led the way. Staying farther N than during her ascent as she headed E, the Carolina Dog managed to avoid most of the steep descent through dense forest. She had to go down some equally steep boulder fields, but that was actually easier.
Upon reaching the forest and turning S, Lupe enjoyed considerable luck on this route, usually finding open lanes of grass and tundra through the evergreens, while passing tarns she’d never seen before along the way.
The American Dingo eventually came to the willows where Summit Creek could be heard rushing downstream ahead. Even here Lupe led the way, bounding through the jungle without being able to see a thing. Only the quivering of the willows she disturbed revealed her location.
Soon the roar coming from Summit Creek indicated that it wasn’t much farther. SPHP yelled.
Careful, Loopster! The bank is a vertical drop!
It was, too. SPHP caught up with Lupe again among the willows along the edge. Summit Creek was right there, hugging this bank, an 8-10 foot vertical drop from the willow thicket that extended right to the brink.
Perhaps as eager to get to the RAV4 as SPHP was, the Carolina Dog took off again, forging ahead, charging blindly this way and that through the endless willows. Soon she was racing straight for Summit Creek again. SPHP yelled twice.
Loop! Stop! STOP! You’ll fall in!
A moment later, a splash.
OMG! Loopster!
Summit Creek was deep where Lupe fell, the current swift and icy cold. From the edge of the willows, SPHP looked anxiously downstream. Suddenly, well ahead, there was Lupe, shaking herself off on exposed streambed where Summit Creek had veered away from the near bank. She appeared to be fine.
Hurrying as much as possible, SPHP surged through the willows, losing sight of the American Dingo in the process.
Loop! Loop!
Minutes ticked away. Nothing. SPHP kept going, calling her name. No sign of her the next time SPHP caught a glimpse of the streambed. Where was she?
Suddenly, here came Lupe, charging straight toward SPHP from behind. Soaking wet from head to tail, she’d been searching for SPHP, too.
Oh, Lupe, don’t scare me like that! Are you OK? Did you get hurt?
Cold and sopping wet, but thankfully, no damage done.
7-31-23, 6:47 AM, 55ºF, S. Klondike Hwy No. 2 – Less than 15 minutes later, Lupe’s grand and glorious Taiya Peak adventure was over, more than 23 hours after it had begun. Lupe leapt up onto her pink blanket in the RAV4 and began vigorously licking herself dry, while SPHP wearily stashed the gear. It was still foggy and cool out, and no one was around. For 45 minutes, the highway was deserted. Not a single vehicle went by.
A couple of semis finally whizzed past just before SPHP pulled the RAV4 onto the highway, heading N. By then Lupe had eaten and was ready to snooze. Driving barepaw with the heater on high to dry out soaking wet boots and socks on the floorboard, SPHP downed a strawberry Equate, feeling surprisingly alert.
7-31-23, 9:37 AM – That feeling of alertness didn’t last long. Shortly after passing Carcross, a tremendous all-pervasive drowsiness set in. Pulling into the Robinson Roadhouse rest area near Mount Lorne, SPHP joined Lupe in her slumber.
A few hours later, Lupe was on her way again.
Taiya Peak was awesome, SPHP! What’s next? You won’t hurt my feelings if it’s something a little less ambitious.
We’re on our way to Whitehorse, Loop. We can pick up supplies, fuel up, then hang out there the rest of the day. Tomorrow, we’ll head N to the Dempster Highway, and start the journey to Tuktoyaktuk.
Yup. And you can bet on plenty of adventures along the way, Sweet Puppy!
And so it was. After getting to Whitehorse, Lupe hung out in the RAV4 while SPHP ran around doing the supplies thing, then joined her in long naps after sharing a roasted chicken. The day’s activities ended with an evening stroll along the fabled Yukon River, and the promise of more terrific adventures ahead.
However, what those adventures might consist of was far from certain. On the way into town, a lighted sign over the Alaska Highway had warned of wildfires and road closures along the Dempster Highway.
Evening along the Yukon River in Whitehorse.On Taiya Peak, Skagway Ranges, British Columbia, Canada (7-30-23)Lupe’s Taiya Peak GPS Track (Ascent).
