Arctic Sisterhood – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

North to Alaska – Return of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood! (8-17-22)

Days 19, 20, and Part 1 of Day 21 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-17-22, 7:19 AM, 55ºF, grassy bluff overlooking Kusawa Lake – Rained all night, and was still raining as Loopster got underway again. The 20 km gravel road back to the Alaska Highway was a sea of mud, the poor RAV4 a filthy mess by the time SPHP turned W onto the pavement. When the American Dingo reached Haines Junction, though, the RAV4 was looking shiny and new again, except for the rear end, which the rain hadn’t been able to wash off.

How far are we going today, SPHP?

Dunno, Loop. Depends on how long this rain continues. All the way to Alaska, easy, if it keeps up like this.

Alaska! Today? Are we really that close to Alaska, SPHP?

Yup! Remember when we climbed AB Mountain near Skagway, and you became the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, Loop? We already passed the turn to Skagway before we even got to Whitehorse.

We skipped Skagway? Why? What part of Alaska are we going to, SPHP?

As far N as we can, Looper!

The Brooks Range, SPHP?

And beyond! Deadhorse, sweet puppy! I want to see the North Slope. The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood is returning to the true Arctic! Of course, we won’t get that far in a day, but what’s the rush? We’ll be traveling through some fabulous territory. If things dry out, we’ll be making stops at some great spots you’ll recognize along the way.

N of Haines Junction, it was only 48ºF as SPHP drove past Decoeli. Lost in rain and fog, there was no recognizing that fabulous peak.

8-17-22, 10:02 AM – Only a short time later, the pavement was dry as SPHP made the turn off the highway onto the big pullout at the S end of Kluane Lake. Clouds hung gloomily over Sheep Mountain, but at least it wasn’t raining. A SW wind kicked up dust over in the Slims River valley. A lot of memories here as Lupe took a stroll along the lakeshore.

**Kluane Lake**. **Sheep Mountain** (L). Photo looks NNW.

**Slims River valley** (Center) from **Kluane Lake**. **Sheep Mountain** (R). Photo looks WSW.

So long since the last time Lupe had been here that SPHP decided to stay a while. With a view of the mountains marching away to the N beyond Kluane Lake, SPHP spent a couple of hours working on the trip journal, glancing up now and then to watch the waves roll in. Loop slept on her pink blanket, enjoying the rest after her windy ascent of Kusawa Ridge (5,085 ft.) yesterday.

Taking a second leisurely stroll along the lake before moving on, Lupe went farther this time. The weather was even more unsettled now, the wind picking up, and the waves larger than they’d been earlier. SPHP enjoyed the walk right along the shoreline best, but the Carolina Dog preferred sniffing among the young aspens beyond the beach on the way back to the RAV4.

8-17-22, 1:13 PM, 59ºF – Light rain set in again as the drive N resumed along the W shore of Kluane Lake. This shower was soon left behind, though, and blue sky appeared. Hit 65ºF! For the first time today, a clear view of the mountains to the W was possible. SPHP daydreamed about climbing them, a mountain NW of Burwash Creek looked particularly interesting.

8-17-22, 2:34 PM – Didn’t seem to take hardly any time at all to get here. The weather was kind of crazy. Blue skies were nearly gone again. Cool and breezy, big clouds, dust, and fog filled the sky. Distant views of the St. Elias Mountains to the W vanished almost as soon as Lupe arrived.

However, she could still see one awesome mountain just beyond the Alaska Highway bridge over the Donjek River.

**Donjek Crossing Mountain** from the **Donjek River**. Photo looks E.

Donjek Crossing Mountain, SPHP! Remember when we climbed it? Oh, what a fabulous day that was!

Heh! It was nearly your last day ever, too, Looper, if you recall!

Lunch time! The Donjek River was another favorite spot. Might as well eat here. Loop took strolls down along the river both before and after lunch. The weather continued acting up. Dust, wind, fog, patches of blue sky, intermittent rain drops, and peels of thunder! A bizarro day, but it was fun being here.

Near the mighty **Donjek River**. Photo looks SSW.

Enjoying all natural mineral water from the silt-laden **Donjek**. Photo looks SSW.

SPHP completely caught up the trip journal. Tempting to stay right here, but it wasn’t that late in the day yet, and Alaska was calling!

Onward! Puppy, ho!

8-17-22, 5:46 PM – Another magnificent river wasn’t that much farther N, one Lupe had never really spent much time at, since it wasn’t as easily accessible as the Donjek. Skies were only partly cloudy when she got to the White River, so taking this opportunity to scout it out a little better seemed in order.

Horsecamp Hill (4,600 ft.) had been on Lupe’s list of possibilities for years, and SPHP wanted to get a better look at it, too. Might be some awesome views from up there, if it wasn’t too heavily forested.

**White River** upstream view. Photo looks S.

Downstream view of the **White River**. **Horsecamp Hill** (L). Photo looks N.

N of the White River, SPHP was surprised at the number of potholes and stretches of gravel. The Alaska Highway had deteriorated in the past few years. All still perfectly passable, though, at somewhat reduced speeds.

8-17-22, 7:03 PM – Well, actually 6:03 PM Alaska time! Lupe was here!

Entering **Alaska** for the first time in 3 years!

This is a terrific sign, SPHP! Why haven’t we ever stopped here before?

Because I never thought to look for a Welcome to Alaska sign until after we went through US Customs, Loop, and this sign comes just before it.

8-17-22, 6:13 PM – After 2 questions, the customs agent returned SPHP’s passport, wishing Lupe a good day.

Congratulations Miss Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood! You’re in!

Thank you, SPHP! That was easy!

As always! Helps that you’ve got an innocent, trustworthy face, Loop!

92 miles to Tok! A peaceful evening drive through a region of low hills ensued. Tall, thin, Dr. Suess-like trees of the boreal forest extended far and away on both sides of the Alaska Highway.

8-17-22, 8:00 PM – Missed it! Turning around, SPHP drove back to a big, paved pullout less than 25 miles from Tok. Not a soul here other than an annoying number of mosquitoes. Not much of a view, either, but this would do for the night.

8-18-22, 7:12 AM, 58ºF – Clear and sunny in Tok! Compared to what it had been in Canada, cheap gas, too. At a mere $4.769 per gallon, SPHP filled the RAV4 completely.

Lupe had only been on the last stretch of the Alaska Highway from Tok to Delta Junction once before, and SPHP had little recollection of it. This was not mountainous territory, most of the drive merely hilly to pancake flat. Highlights included bridges over 3 rivers, the Robertson, Johnson, and Gerstle. Large, braided streams, they were somewhat reminiscent of the Donjek and White.

8-18-22, 9:53 AM – N of Delta Junction, SPHP stopped at a pullout along the Tanana River. Time to get out, have a look, and sniff the air for a few minutes. No sooner had Lupe ventured over to the river’s edge than a couple of boys came running over. They asked a million questions about Lupe, wanted to pet her, and were anxious to show SPHP a couple of sticks they had been whittling with jack knives.

New found friends by the **Tanana River**.

Gray with silt, the Tanana was like all the other big rivers Lupe had been seeing. Snow-capped peaks beyond it were an inspiring sight, but a long way off. A few miles later, another pullout on a bluff provided a better overall view of the Tanana River itself.

Magnificent, unidentified peaks beyond the **Tanana River**.

The American Dingo went into a barking frenzy prompted by low-flying jets near Eielson AFB. North Pole wasn’t much farther, and Fairbanks was just beyond that.

Beneath sunny skies with puffy white clouds, Lupe reached Fairbanks for the first time in 5 years before noon. Last chance to to resupply and fuel up with cheap gas! Free potable water at Pioneer Park, too. Once those tasks were taken care of, the Carolina Dog was free to move on. Everything was going according to plan. Only one problem.

Decision time, Loop.

About what, SPHP?

About where to go, Looper.

I thought we already knew? We’re heading N, right, SPHP?

That was the plan, but now I’m not so sure. Checked the weather forecast for Coldfoot when we got into town. It’s completely flipped from the last forecast the iPhone gave me back in Whitehorse 3 days ago. Coldfoot was supposed to be sunny and clear for a whole week. Now that we’ve come all this way, it’s saying 90% chance of rain today, 70% tomorrow, and cloudy for days after that.

Well, what are our options, SPHP?

We could delay our jaunt N by a couple of days, Loop. The forecast looks a little better down here. Pinnell Mountain (4,934 ft.) is NE out the Steese Highway. Might be fun?

You decide, SPHP! I’m happy either way.

After dithering for half an hour, SPHP made a questionable decision, continuing due N at Fox.

The drive to Livengood was beautiful! Elliot Highway No. 2 wound up and down heavily forested ridges separated by deep valleys. Not much traffic, except some big trucks. Knew where those were coming from!

8-18-22, 5:21 PM – Blinking in the late afternoon sunshine, Lupe stood in front of a sign she hadn’t seen in nearly 5 years. Must have rained not too long ago, because the pullout in front of it was muddy.

At the **start of the 414 mile long Dalton Highway**.

Naturally, the Dalton Highway was damp and muddy in spots, too. The rear end of the RAV4 was soon on its way back to being a filthy mess, but that was to be expected sooner or later on the Dalton even in the best of times. The drive was awesome! Occasional sprinkles from silver-lined clouds, the pale blue sky of the far N over dark green forests, and from some of the highest ridges, views of distant hills and mountains of the trackless wilderness.

After not having been here for so many years, it was like returning to a world once glimpsed in a long forgotten dream.

Near MP40. Out for a short stroll along the scenic **Dalton Highway**.

8-18-22, 7:00 PM – MP56! Lupe stood at the upper end of the bridge over the Yukon River, first big scenic landmark along the Dalton Highway. Although traffic was only intermittent, it wasn’t a good idea to stand there too long. A quick photo, and SPHP called her back.

On the **Dalton Highway bridge over the Yukon River**. Photo looks NNE.

Much safer to check out the mighty Yukon River from the N bank. After driving over the bridge, SPHP parked the RAV4 near an old friend, the Alaska oil pipeline. Lupe was happy to see it again before wandering over to the river for a look.

By the **Alaska oil pipeline**. Photo looks N.

**Dalton Highway bridge** from the N bank. Photo looks SW.

Down by the **N bank**. Photo looks SSE.

Evening along the **Yukon River**. Photo looks WNW.

Lemon pepper chicken! Now that was tasty, SPHP!

Guess I should have bought 2 of them in Fairbanks, Loop. We ate the whole thing!

Full of chicken, the lovely evening drive N continued.

8-18-22, 8:53 PM, MP98 – Must have rained hard here within the last hour. The last few miles of the Dalton Highway before SPHP made the turn into the Finger Mountain Wayside were a sloppy mess full of big mud puddles. Somewhere the sun was still up, but Lupe couldn’t see it due to all the dark clouds toward the N.

Finger Mountain (2,202 ft.), SPHP! We’ve got to climb it!

Absolutely, sweet puppy! Let’s go!

Finger Mountain’s summit was practically right there, only a short stroll N of the rest area. A nature trail wound up a small hill to the dramatic rock formation at the very top. The air was cool and moist, on the chilly side, actually, as SPHP took the long way around reading various plaques about the flora along the way.

Two ravens flew off as Lupe began the tiny scramble to the summit. SPHP had no intention of getting up there, but was more than willing to provide the American Dingo with the required, slightly nerve-wracking, final boost.

On **Finger Mountain** again for the first time in nearly 5 years. Photo looks NW.

Oh, my gosh, SPHP! Can’t believe I’m here on Finger Mountain again!

I know! Seems so strange, and yet so familiar, doesn’t it? You’ve almost done it, too. Only 17 miles to the Arctic Circle from here. The return of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood is nearly complete!

I’ve been neglecting my Arctic Sisterhood duties for a long time, SPHP, but it wasn’t my fault. All Covid-19’s fault!

Tell me about it, Loop! None of that matters now, though, we’re back! This is as far as we’re going tonight, though. Your all new adventures in the true Arctic start tomorrow, weather permitting, of course.

As the evening sky demonstrated, that last part was somewhat in doubt. After helping Lupe down off Finger Mountain’s summit, a stroll was taken across the Dalton Highway to another, smaller rock outcropping with a view of Caribou Mountain (3,179 ft.) off to the WNW.

Remember our long journey to Caribou Mountain, Loop? Nobody goes there.

How can I ever forget, SPHP? It was all grand, until the very end.

Oh, yeah! We got soaked, didn’t we?

I sure did, SPHP. At least you had your old blue Cookie Monster outfit!

8-19-22, early – SPHP opened an eye. Lupe was peering out the window of the RAV4 into a thick, gray fog.

You’re awake, SPHP? Good! Can you let me out for a few minutes?

Sure thing, Loop. Need to sniff the air?

The Carolina Dog needed to do more than that. Once out of the RAV4, Lupe puked along the perimeter of the wayside parking lot. Not a lot, just a little.

Queasy, aye, Looper? Too much lemon pepper chicken? Don’t worry about it. Unless this fog dissipates, we won’t be going anywhere for a while.

Returning to the RAV4, Lupe got back up onto her pink blanket. Clearly, a morning snooze was in order. By the time Loop woke up again, the fog had a blue tinge to it, and a bright spot revealed the position of the sun.

How ya feeling, Loopster?

Much better, SPHP, thank you!

Good! Looks like this fog is about to break up. Feel up to climbing Finger Mountain again?

It’s so easy, I might as well log another ascent while we’re still here, SPHP. After all, not very often that I get the chance. We ought to visit Finger Rock, too!

That’s the spirit! You must be feeling better, Loop. Glad to see it!

8-19-22, 8:24 AM – In weak sunshine, Lupe stood atop Finger Mountain once again. She stayed there only long enough for SPHP to get photos from a couple of different angles before helping her back down again.

Back atop **Finger Mountain**. Photo looks W.

The most dramatic angle. Photo looks SSW.

The greater **Finger Mountain summit region**. Photo looks NNE.

How was it up there, Loop? Still feeling good enough to visit Finger Rock?

I’m fine now, SPHP. Let’s do it!

Finger Rock, which Finger Mountain is named for, was 0.5 mile SSE of the true summit Lupe had already visited. Bushes along an intermittent use path leading to it were soaking wet, and noticeably taller than the only other time Lupe had visited Finger Rock years ago. By the time she got to it again, the Carolina Dog mighty soggy, too.

Plaque about Finger Mountain and Finger Rock.

Approaching **Finger Rock** (L). Photo looks SSE.

Since Finger Rock wasn’t the summit of anything other than itself, Lupe contented herself with a little light scrambling around on the big rocks near its base. Finger Rock looked quite different, tall and skinny, or kind of fat and stout, depending on the angle of view.

Content with her morning inspection of famous Finger Rock, Lupe headed back to the Finger Mountain Wayside.

8-19-22, 9:46 AM – From a boulder near the summit of Finger Mountain, Lupe scanned the Kanuti River basin. Still quite cloudy that way.

**Kanuti River Basin** (R) from **Finger Mountain**. Photo looks N.

Just think! We can see more than 2/3 of the remaining distance to the Arctic Circle from here, Loop. Is the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood ready to resume her adventures in the true Arctic?

I can hardly wait, SPHP! Been waiting for this day for a long, long time!

Me, too, Loopster! Me, too!

On **Finger Mountain**, Yukon-Koyukuk Ranges, Alaska 8-18-22.

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

BLM Dalton Highway Visitor Guide

AB Mountain – Lupe Joins the Arctic Sisterhood, Skagway, Alaska (8-7-17).

Slope Mountain and Highlights of the Dalton Highway Revisited (8-22-17 & 8-23-17)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

AB Mountain – Lupe Joins the Arctic Sisterhood! Skagway, Alaska (8-7-17)

Day 8 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

Loopster was right! When Monday morning arrived, Skagway bore no resemblance to the virtual ghost town it had been at dusk on Sunday night. It was still early. Skagway wasn’t terribly busy yet, but you could just feel that the whole town would soon be teeming with activity. Before that happened, Lupe and SPHP took a walk down to the Skagway Sea Terminal for a look around.

Loop at at small park on the way to the Skagway Sea Terminal.

This old engine used take trains from Skagway over White Pass to Carcross and Whitehorse in the Yukon.

Skagway is located on the Taiya Inlet of the Lynn Canal, an arm of the North Pacific Ocean. Photo looks SW.

Three big cruise ships were in port, plus a yacht named Playpen and a number of smaller boats tucked away in a separate little cove.

Lupe at the Taiya Inlet. Cruise ship Explorer of the Seas is on the L. Photo looks SSW.

Radiance of the Seas, one of three large cruise ships in port. The almost identical Explorer of the Seas is docked right behind it.

The yacht Playpen and the 3rd big cruise ship.

Lots of smaller boats were tucked safely away in this separate cove. Photo looks NE.

Seeing the ocean and the beautiful mountains along the Taiya Inlet was fun. However, Lupe had already figured out that just like yesterday’s bush pilot flight-seeing tour to Virginia Falls leaving from Muncho Lake, SPHP would announce that taking a cruise on one of these luxurious cruise ships wasn’t in the budget, either.

That was OK. American Dingoes are flexible. They’re open to all sorts of ideas. Lupe had seen another less expensive entertainment possibility on the walk through town. Maybe SPHP could be talked into this one?

*SPHP, look at how good I’m being, and how pretty I am next to all these beautiful flowers! You’ll take me out to the Red Onion, won’t you, please? It’s right across the street, just follow me!*

Lupe had hopes for some high times at the Red Onion!

Lupe was in for high times, alright, but not at the Red Onion Saloon, at least not now. Today Lupe’s high times were going to involve 4,740 feet of elevation gain climbing AB Mountain (5,036 ft.). She was going to join the Arctic Sisterhood!

In 1899, back in the Klondike gold rush days, the Arctic Brotherhood had been founded by 11 gold prospectors on a steamship headed for Skagway from Seattle. The Arctic Brotherhood was originally a fraternal order whose members pledged to assist one another on the way to and while at the goldfields near Dawson City in the Yukon.

The in-land journey to the goldfields started at Skagway, where a unique two story hall decorated on the exterior with driftwood was built as the Arctic Brotherhood’s headquarters. For a while, the Arctic Brotherhood became very popular and expanded rapidly, at one point having over 10,000 members and up to 34 different camps distributed throughout the Yukon and southern Alaska.

A NNE trending ridge starting at Yakutania Point just W of Skagway rises from Taiya Inlet some 5,036 feet to a mountaintop more than 5 miles away. The letters “AB” appear on this mountain when snow conditions are right, so the mountain became known as A.B. Mountain or Arctic Brotherhood Mountain. It’s sometimes said in modern times that climbing AB Mountain makes one a member of the Arctic Brotherhood.

The real Arctic Brotherhood never accepted female members, but SPHP didn’t want to worry Lupe with such trivial details. As far as SPHP was concerned, if the plucky Carolina Dog could get to the top of the mountain today, she was going to become a member of the Arctic Sisterhood. SPHP told her as much.

Of course, after all her wonderful adventures in the Yukon and Alaska both last year and yet to come on this 2017 Dingo Vacation, Lupe was excited about the prospect of joining the Arctic Sisterhood! She was eager to get going right away!

SPHP found the small trailhead for AB Mountain on the S (L) side of the road to Dyea almost immediately after the road turned to gravel. On the opposite side of the road Lupe spotted a small sign saying A.B. Mountain next to the start of the Skyline Trail. (9:30 AM, 59°F)

*Come on, SPHP! This is it, the Skyline Trail to AB Mountain!*

For the first 2.25 miles, the trail was wide and easy to follow. It varied quite a bit on how steep it was, with both fairly steep and almost level sections. Lupe even came to a few dips. Overall, Lupe gained elevation at a moderate pace.

This early part of the trail went through a forest. Not far from the trailhead, Lupe explored a short side spur leading off the main trail to an exposed boulder. This boulder provided a view back toward Skagway and the Taiya Inlet. Everywhere else the only views were of the forest.

The wide, well worn trail to AB Mountain starts off in a forest.

Early in the trek, a boulder at the end of a short spur off the main trail provides this view of the Taiya Inlet. This is the only viewpoint for more than 2 miles. Photo looks SSW.

Shortly after returning to the main trail, Lupe crossed the first of two small streams.

Lupe wades in the first small stream that crosses the trail.

Continuing past the first small stream, the forest was tall and thick for a long way.

After crossing the first stream, the trail went a long way through the forest before eventually crossing a second small stream. Beyond the second stream, the trail began to steepen rapidly. It was soon so steep that SPHP was often grabbing branches, tree trunks, rocks – whatever was available for assistance. The steep climb didn’t bother Lupe, though.

At the start of this steep section, the trail had still been in thick forest. As Lupe gained elevation, however, the situation began to change. Tall bushes and Devil’s club mingled in among the trees. Lupe even saw a few blueberries and crowberries. Gradually, the trees became smaller and fewer. The tall bushes and Devil’s club prevailed. Views were now starting to open up.

As Lupe got higher, the trees began to thin. Tall bushes and Devil’s club began to dominate, and views started opening up. Photo looks SSW toward Skagway and Taiya Inlet.

SPHP had previously read online about an obstacle that Lupe had to be fast approaching. Somewhere along this steep section of the trail, trip reports stated there was a rope needed to get up a particularly slippery, dangerous spot. How bad was this spot? Was it a small cliff? Would Lupe even be able to get past it? SPHP was worried that the rope might be as far as the Carolina Dog could go.

Lupe finally did reach a yellow rope dangling 40 or 50 feet down a long, smooth-surfaced rock. The rock was plenty steep, but this wasn’t nearly as bad as SPHP had feared it might be. No exposure, no insurmountable obstacles. In fact, the American Dingo could scamper up and down the rock at will. The rope was a tremendous help to SPHP. With its assistance SPHP simply walked right on up the rock no problem at all.

Lupe reaches the dreaded rope section. It turned out to be nothing to worry about at all. The rope made it easy for SPHP to walk right on up. Lupe was perfectly capable of scampering up and down the steep rock at will without it.

Lupe kept climbing. SPHP had to stop frequently to catch breath. Lupe was starting to get above all the trees. The trail remained very steep. Even the tall bushes and Devil’s club were starting to give way to shorter vegetation. A high point up ahead looked like the start of easier terrain, and some fabulous sweeping views.

The trail remained very steep above the rope, but this high point eventually came into view promising both easier terrain and sweeping views ahead.

Starting to get above not only the trees, but the tall bushes, too. Skagway is on the L. Yakutania Point and the forest Lupe had come through on the way up are at Center. Dyea Point is the skinny peninsula on the R. Photo looks SSW along Taiya Inlet.

The climb up to the first sweeping viewpoint was farther than it looked, but Lupe and SPHP made it. The terrain was a lot easier here. The vegetation was reduced to tundra plants. Nothing obstructed the glorious views which were absolutely amazing in virtually every direction.

Lupe reaches the first sweeping viewpoint above the steepest section of the trail to AB Mountain. Dyea is in the valley at lower R. **Parsons Peak (5,600 ft.)** towers across the bay on the L. Photo looks WSW.

Lupe met two people at this first sweeping viewpoint. Sean and Rebecca Riordan from Brooklyn, New York were here enjoying the grand views. They had come to Skagway aboard the Explorer of the Seas, which Lupe had seen docked down at Skagway this morning. Sean and Rebecca were super friendly and nice to Lupe. Rebecca said her grandma was named Lupe, too!

Lupe met Sean & Rebecca Riordan from Brooklyn, New York at this first sweeping viewpoint. Photo looks E.

Sean and Rebecca were super friendly and nice to Lupe. Photo looks E.

Rebecca and Lupe with Taiya Inlet in the background. Photo looks S.

Sean and Lupe together. Sean was looking forward to pizza and drinks aboard the Explorer of the Seas this evening. Lupe thought maybe she’d join Sean if the Red Onion Saloon didn’t work out with SPHP. Photo looks N.

Sean, Rebecca and SPHP had a good time chatting for quite a while. Lupe certainly didn’t mind taking a break being petted and loved.

Relaxing with Sean and Rebecca Riordan before they depart for Skagway and pizza and drinks aboard the luxurious Explorer of the Seas. Photo looks SSW.

Sean and Rebecca had to be back down to the Explorer of the Seas in time for an 8:00 PM departure, so eventually Lupe and SPHP had to bid them farewell and bon voyage. If the American Dingo hadn’t been committed to joining the Arctic Sisterhood today, she might well have followed Sean and Rebecca down for pizza and drinks aboard the luxurious Explorer of the Seas.

As it was, it was time to get moving again. The summit of AB Mountain was still a long way off, not even in sight yet. Up ahead, Lupe could see two rounded higher hills along the ridge. The trail led toward a closer wall of rock, as if destined to skirt these hills to the W (L).

After Sean and Rebecca headed down, Lupe and SPHP continued on looking for the summit of AB Mountain. Two rounded hills were in sight. The trail led toward the wall of rock partly in view on the L. Photo looks NNE.

The trail was no longer as wide, well-worn and easy to follow as it had been way back down in the forest. SPHP somehow lost it, and wound up on a boulder field below the E side of the rock wall. About half way through the boulder field, people were seen up on top of the rock wall. Apparently the trail was actually up there.

It was slow going on this boulder field below the wall of rock on the L. The trail was actually up on top, but SPHP had somehow lost it. Photo looks NNE.

Lupe and SPHP made it past the boulder field, and up onto the ridgeline beyond the two rounded hills. The trail continued winding along the top of the ridge, and after a while Lupe could see two distant high points ahead. The closer, lower one was marked on the topo map as the location of Hump Benchmark.

After following the ridge a long way beyond the two rounded hills, two distant high points appear ahead in shadow. The closer, lower one is the location of Hump Benchmark on the topo map. SPHP thought the summit of AB Mountain was the higher point beyond it. Photo looks NNE.

It was still a long way to Hump Benchmark, never mind the summit. Lupe continued up the ridgeline. Sometimes the trail was easy to follow, sometimes cairns marked the way, sometimes there was no indication at all of where to go except onward and upward. Lupe was still gaining elevation steadily. The views were fantastic on all sides.

Lupe continued gaining elevation along the giant ridgeline. The views were simply tremendous on all sides! Photo looks NNW.

Looking NE with help from the telephoto lens.

The East Fork of the Skagway River valley. Photo looks ESE with help from the telephoto lens.

The Reid Creek valley. Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.

**Parson Peak (5,600 ft.)** (far L) from the AB Mountain ridge. Photo looks W.

Looking WNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe passing by a small pond up on the ridge. This pond is shown at 4,186 feet (1,276 m) on the topo map. Still 1,050 feet of elevation gain to go from here! Photo looks ENE.

SPHP was getting tired. It seemed like Lupe had already gone a long, long way, but it was clear she still had significant ground left to cover. Several groups of people had either started out earlier in the morning, or had passed Loop and SPHP on the way up. Every now and then one of these groups was met making their way back down.

No one seemed to know how far it was to the summit of AB Mountain (5,036 ft.), although SPHP was pretty certain Lupe had been seeing the summit beyond the Hump from various vantage points along the ridge. However, everyone had turned back before getting there.

Only the last couple of guys Lupe met, one from England and the other from New Zealand, told SPHP they had been to the summit. They had found a large cairn at the top. They claimed it was only another 30 to 60 minutes away from where Lupe was now.

Two people approach Lupe on their way back down. Lupe met several such groups, but only the last two guys from England and New Zealand said they had made it to the summit of AB Mountain. In the distance on the L is the apparent summit, the high point just to its R is Hump Benchmark, or simply “the Hump” as SPHP came to call it. Photo looks NNE.

The Brit and the New Zealander had lied. Not on purpose maybe, perhaps they had gotten to the cairn that quickly, but SPHP couldn’t get there that fast. Not even close. An hour zipped by and the summit, wherever it was, still didn’t appear to be anywhere nearby. Lupe wasn’t even to the Hump yet.

The trail had all but vanished. Lupe rarely even saw a cairn. Another problem now existed. The character of the long ridge was changing. Lupe came to a series of long gashes. Each gash extended all the way across from one side of the big ridge to the other, forcing Loop to find a way around or through each one.

These gashes were all oriented SW/NE. They seemed like they had been created by a giant wielding a dull knife to slice a series of cuts partway into the ridge, as if it were a loaf of bread. Each cut amounted to a gap, and at the edge of each gap Lupe found herself at the top of a wall of rock 10 to 30 feet high. Sometimes there were relatively easy routes down into the gashes and up the other side. Sometimes there weren’t.

The gashes made this part of the ridge an interesting trek, but really slowed SPHP’s progress down. Lupe sometimes had to go way around the end of a gash. Usually it was too steep to go around the W side, but it was always possible to get around the E side, provided Lupe and SPHP down climbed enough.

Instead of gaining elevation steadily, Loop sniffed and explored her way along a twisting up and down off-trail route wherever the terrain appeared most favorable. Some of the gaps she crossed were full of loose rock and boulders. Others contained snow banks.

Lupe discovers a snow bank in one of the gashes.

Having to find ways around rock walls like the one on the R that extended clear across the ridge, made for an interesting, but long, tiring route.

Lupe down in another gash near the steep W end. The Irene Glacier is seen on the L. Photo looks NNW.

Irene Glacier (L). Photo looks NNW with help from the telephoto lens.

At last, Lupe was nearing the Hump. However, the biggest, deepest gash yet appeared between her and the Hump. Looper had to lose 150 feet of elevation going around the far NE end of this gash. Then it was a long climb up a series of benches to reach the top of the Hump from the E.

The Hump is dead ahead. Unfortunately, there is an unseen deep gash between here and there. Lupe had to down climb at least 150 feet of elevation going around the NE (R) end. Part of Mount Clifford (5,696 ft.), is seen ahead on the R. Photo looks N.

East Fork of the Skagway River valley. Photo looks SE.

Loopster climbing the benches on the Hump. Photo looks NE.

In yet another gash on the way up the Hump.

Nearing the top of the Hump. Photo looks SSW.

East Fork of the Skagway River (L) from the Hump. Photo looks SE.

Part of Goat Lake is in view from the Hump. Photo looks NE.

When Lupe reached the top of the Hump, the weather was changing. All day long the sky had been slowly clouding up. Now clouds swept over the ridge to AB Mountain. Lupe and SPHP were periodically engulfed in fog, only to have sunshine reappear a few minutes later. The clouds sailing by came out of the W.

From the top of the Hump, Lupe could finally see the summit again. It wasn’t that far away! Loop had to lose some elevation to get there, but the terrain was now less rugged than it had been getting to the Hump. Lupe had an almost direct route to the summit!

From the the Hump, Lupe can see the summit of AB Mountain ahead! It isn’t that far away now, and the terrain is becoming easier again. Photo looks NNE.

Lupe enjoys a brief moment of sunshine as she closes in on the summit of AB Mountain. Photo looks N.

Looking back down the ridge as another cloud closes in. Dyea is nearly 5,000 feet below on the R. Photo looks SSW.

Looper looks down on Dyea. Photo looks SSW.

Almost there! It was exciting to think that Lupe was about to join the Arctic Sisterhood with a successful ascent of AB Mountain! Photo looks N.

Lupe and SPHP made it to the summit cairn on AB Mountain (5,036 ft.)! Another cloud was sweeping over the ridge. Nothing could be seen except the nearby terrain. The rest of the world was gray.

It was still a joyful moment! Lupe was at the top of AB Mountain. She had joined the Arctic Sisterhood! The long trek had been completely worth it. SPHP congratulated Lupe, shaking her paw and praising her persistent effort.

Lupe reaches the summit cairn on AB Mountain! Photo looks N.

The newest member of the Arctic Sisterhood stands proudly next to the summit cairn on AB Mountain. Photo looks N.

Lupe wondered if she was the first Carolina Dog to join the Arctic Sisterhood? SPHP said she might well be. This was a great honor for Looper and a notable achievement on behalf of all Carolina Dogs everywhere.

Lupe gained more than 4,740 feet of elevation and had traveled more than 5 miles from the trailhead to get here.

Lupe squints in bright light as the fog thins.

Lupe had been standing up at the summit cairn for 6 or 7 minutes when a hole in the clouds opened up a partial view to the N. SPHP was surprised to see another high point not even 0.2 mile away! It looked to be almost identical in elevation to where Lupe was at the cairn. Was it possible it was even higher? Probably not, since the cairn was here, but SPHP checked the topo map anyway.

Oh, good grief! That other high point to the N actually was the true summit of AB Mountain! The topo map showed the other high point as 1535 meters (5,036 feet) compared to 1532 meters (5,026 feet) where Loopster was standing at the cairn. No denying it. Assuming the topo map was correct, which one had to, that other high point was 10 feet higher. The map even showed the name AB Mountain right at that N high point.

After Lupe had been at the summit cairn 6 or 7 minutes, the clouds parted to reveal this other high point to the N. A check of the topo map revealed it was 10 feet higher than where the cairn was, and actually the true summit of AB Mountain. Photo looks N.

It was now 2 hours since the Englishman and New Zealander had told SPHP it was only 30 to 60 minutes to the summit of AB Mountain. Clearly they hadn’t bothered going over to the N high point. They’d only mentioned the cairn. It was getting rather late in the afternoon, and the weather was continuing to degrade with more clouds moving in.

No matter! Lupe was going to the true summit! It didn’t look hard to get there, and shouldn’t take long. No time to lose, though. SPHP explained to Looper that to make her ascent of AB Mountain and new membership in the Arctic Sisterhood official, she needed to tag that N high point.

SPHP didn’t have to tell her twice. Loop led the way to the true summit.

Lupe approaches a snow drift in a low spot on the way to AB Mountain’s true summit. Photo looks N.

Clouds obscured all views again as Lupe reached the true summit of AB Mountain. A small rock stuck in a crack atop a massive rock appeared to be the absolute highest point on AB Mountain (5,036 ft.). Lupe was happy to make her ascent and membership in the Arctic Sisterhood official by standing next to it. SPHP put one of her front paws on top of the little rock and it was done.

All official now! Lupe stands proudly next to the highest little rock on AB Mountain. Photo looks N.

First Carolina Dog ever at the true summit of AB Mountain? SPHP thought there was a good chance Lupe had that honor.

*So did I do it? Can I relax now? ……. Yep, you’re official now Miss Arctic Sisterhood!*

Lupe remained at the true summit of AB Mountain for more than 20 minutes. A 10 mph SW breeze blew a steady stream of fog across the mountaintop. Every now and then, a partial view to the NE was momentarily revealed. A few times Lupe saw blue sky and sunshine directly overhead, while surrounded by fog. Most of the time the summit was simply socked in. Loop never did see more than a faint outline of Mount Clifford, the next higher peak farther N along the ridge.

The American Dingo rested peacefully next to the little rock at the top of AB Mountain enjoying her status as the newest member of the Arctic Sisterhood. There were a couple of other rocks nearby competing closely for the title of true summit. After resting up and having some Taste of the Wild, Lupe tagged them, too. No cairn or registry was found.

The clouds parted enough to permit a few brief glimpses off to the NE while Lupe was at true summit of AB Mountain. Photo looks ENE.

The newest official member of the Arctic Sisterhood relaxes at the true summit of AB Mountain.

Looking SSW, the direction Lupe had come from and would have to return.

Final moments in the fog near the true summit of AB Mountain.

It was already early evening when Lupe and SPHP finally left the true summit of AB Mountain in a dark fog. Lupe returned briefly to the cairn at the false summit, but could see nothing.

Looking toward the false summit shortly after starting back. The cairn is up there somewhere. Lupe returned to it briefly. Photo looks S.

Lupe and SPHP hurried on due to the lateness of the hour. The long trek back was a happy one and most enjoyable. The solitude was unbroken. Lupe seemed energized by the cool clouds and now mostly downhill route. She ran and sniffed and explored far more than she had on the way up.

Fog prevailed much of the way, continuing to stream by from out of the WSW. Once in a while there were holes in the clouds. Dramatic glacier-clad mountain views popped into sight. Lupe bathed in sunlight on the beautiful ridge for anywhere from a few seconds to a few minutes before it all disappeared again.

For a long time, Lupe and SPHP worked in dense fog back past all the gashes cutting across the ridge. The Carolina Dog still faced significant down climbs to the NE, especially getting beyond the Hump. Once past all the gashes, Lupe generally stayed right on top of the ridgeline and had more luck finding the best routes. A few well-positioned cairns proved much more helpful pointing out the faint trail now than on the way up.

Lupe was in fog most of the way back down, but every so often holes in the clouds permitted a better look at her surroundings.

Coming to a large snowbank in another gash. Mountains and glaciers pop back into view. Photo looks SE.

Snow break! Time for a bit of frolicking!

Lupe pauses for a look at the valley of the East Fork of the Skagway River. Photo looks SE.

Zoomed in on some of the incredible peaks and glaciers. Photo looks SE.

A good look down a long stretch of the AB Mountain ridge. Lupe had met Sean and Rebecca many hours ago way down at the last lowest bump of the ridge in view on the R. Taiya Inlet is seen faintly beyond Lupe. Photo looks S.

After a while, the clouds became so thick no more breaks appeared. Lupe and SPHP continued lower traveling through dense fog. It wasn’t until Lupe was working her way down the steep section that she lost enough elevation to emerge below the cloud cover.

Lupe could see Skagway now. The Explorer of the Seas and Radiance of the Seas remained in port. Sean and Rebecca were still in Skagway!

It wasn’t until Lupe was way back down to the steep section that she got below the clouds and could see Skagway again. The Explorer of the Seas and Radiance of the Seas were still in port. Sean and Rebecca were still in Skagway! Photo looks SSW.

Any hopes the Carolina Dog might have had of having pizza and drinks with the Riordans were soon dashed, however. The Explorer of the Seas was leaving! Lupe and SPHP stood watching Explorer of the Seas sail S away from Skagway down Taiya Inlet. Sean and Rebecca were probably enjoying their pizza and drinks right this very moment.

30 minutes later, Lupe saw the Radiance of the Seas follow the Explorer of the Seas away from Skagway.

Explorer of the Seas sails away from Skagway starting S down Taiya Inlet. No doubt Sean and Rebecca were aboard enjoying their pizza and drinks right this very minute.

So Lupe never did get to see Sean and Rebecca again. They sailed away on adventures of their own. Lupe’s fabulous expedition up AB Mountain had been successful. The Carolina Dog had made it all the long, long way to the true summit. Lupe had joined the Arctic Sisterhood! Tomorrow would bring another fantastic northern adventure worthy of any official new member.

Down in the dark forest, dusk faded to the unbroken blackness of a starless night. Lupe and SPHP traveled on through the gloom until at long last, the A.B. Mountain sign appeared in the flashlight’s beam at the start of the trail. Lupe crossed the road to the G6, ready for Alpo and dreams of days gone by striking it rich in the faraway Klondike gold fields. (11:16 PM)

New Arctic Sisterhood member, Lupe, reports in at the Arctic Brotherhood hall in Skagway the next morning.

AB Mountain trailhead directions: From the South Klondike Highway (No. 98) take the turn onto Dyea Road (0.5 mile from Skagway, or 4 miles from US Customs). Follow Dyea Road 2 miles. Shortly before reaching the trailhead on the L (S) side of Dyea Road, you will pass a paved parking lot at a pullout on the L with a view of Skagway. Dyea road turns to gravel a little past the pullout, and the trailhead appears soon after on the L (S) side of the road. The trail starts at the A.B. Mountain sign on the other (N) side of the road directly across from the trailhead. The trailhead has room for only 3 or 4 vehicles.

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.