The Burwash Creek Reconnaissance Mission, Yukon Territory, Canada (9-5-22)

Days 37-39 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

9-4-22, 12:07 PM, 57ºF, Fairbanks, Alaska – Refueled and resupplied, but that was where the good news ended.

We’re leaving, SPHP?  Why?  I thought we had another week in Alaska!

So did I, Loopster.  That was the plan.  We’ve got the time and money, but I’ve checked and rechecked the forecast on the iPhone.  No matter what part of Alaska I look at, there are at most only 1 or 2 relatively dry days in the next 5 or 6.  Other than that, it’s rain, rain, and more rain.  And you know how Alaska is!  If there’s a reasonable chance of rain, it’s going to happen, and for most of the day, too.

Disappointing to say the least, but the forecast seemed to be accurate.  Although it wasn’t raining as Lupe left Fairbanks, it soon started right in again, and rained all afternoon.  It wasn’t until the American Dingo was already past Tetlin Junction SE of Tok that skies turned blue.

Wow!  Actual brilliant sunshine, SPHP.  I’d almost forgotten what it’s like.  Doesn’t seem right!

Figures!  That’s the way it’s been on this Dingo Vacation.  Only really sunny place in Alaska is the road back to Canada.

Can’t complain too much, SPHP.  We had some marvelous adventures in Alaska again this year!

True enough, but nevertheless, at 8:00 PM PDT, Lupe was once again crossing the Canadian border.  Sadly, Alaska 2022 was already in the rearview mirror.  By 8:47 PM, she’d made it to the White River, and the familiar view of Horsecamp Hill (4,600 ft.).

Evening near the White River. Horsecamp Hill (L). Photo looks N.

9-5-22, 8:25 AM, 44ºF, Donjek River – So much for blue skies!  The clouds were back, along with light rain.  Lupe was still glad to stop at this long favorite place, but others had beaten her to the punch.  People were camping in all the best spots, and who could blame them?  The Donjek River is awesome!

At least the American Dingo got to sniff around for 20 minutes before moving on.  A lovely time, although it didn’t begin to compare with the day she’d climbed Donjek Crossing Mountain back in 2019.

Back at the Donjek River. Photo looks S.
Alaska Highway bridge over the Donjek River. Donjek Crossing Mountain in the background. Photo looks E.
Along the muddy riverbank. Photo looks SW.
Someone already had a tent (far R) set up at Lupe’s favorite spot. Photo looks WSW.

9-5-22, 9:28 AM, 44ºF, Alaska Highway, Kluane River rest area – S of the Donjek River, the clouds began breaking up.  Blue sky was reappearing!  New snow was visible up on the mountains to the W.

New snow on the mountains from the Kluane River rest area. Photo looks SW.

So beautiful!  The mountains always look better with snow on them, don’t they, SPHP?

They do, Looper!  And you know what?  These are the same mountains I was daydreaming about climbing someday when we were on our way to Alaska.  Want to see what we can do?

Sure, SPHP, but how are we even going to get to them?  They’re back pretty far from the highway, and it’s all forested territory.  Might be a tough slog.

I know, Loop, but I remember we crossed a bridge over Burwash Creek where it looked like we might be able to follow the floodplain a long way toward the mountains.  If we watch for it, I bet we’ll see it again before we get too much farther.

Let’s try that then, SPHP!

9-5-22, 10:14 AM, 45ºF – Sure enough, a few miles S of the rest area, the Alaska Highway crossed Burwash Creek.  Fortunately, there was a nice, roomy flat spot to park on the W side of the highway.  It was on the S side of the creek, which was the wrong side, but that was OK.  Traffic was light.  Lupe could just cross the bridge.

Excitement was in the air following this spur of the moment decision.  These mountains weren’t even on the Carolina Dog’s list of possibilities, so SPHP didn’t have any maps of the area.

What mountain are we going to be climbing, SPHP?  Does it have a name?

I have no idea, Loop.  Was thinking we’d just call it Burwash Mountain, if we manage to get to the highest peak.

The highest one?  You sure are optimistic, SPHP!  Amazing what a little sunshine can do.

Maybe more like delusional, but we might as well think big, Looper.  In any case, it’s an adventure!  We’ll do what we can.

As soon as SPHP had the pack ready, the American Dingo was on her way.  Crossing the Alaska Highway bridge to get over to the N side of Burwash Creek, she then scrambled down a bank to the floodplain.

The lovely parking area S of Burwash Creek. Photo looks S.
Alaska Highway from the N side of the creek. Photo looks SE.

Burwash Creek had decent flow, but occupied only a small portion of a huge floodplain that must have been 300 feet wide.  Lupe could roam at will across a vast region of rounded stones as she headed upstream.  Most of the time she preferred staying close to the scenic creek.

Even SPHP’s progress was excellent on this super easy terrain.  Clouds had already reformed over the mountains, which was disappointing, but there was still plenty of blue sky around, and the clouds didn’t seem threatening at all.  Maybe they would burn off again before too long?

On the Burwash Creek floodplain. Photo looks SW.

It soon became evident that the floodplain wasn’t entirely natural.  Giant Caterpillar tracks clearly demonstrated that the entire region had been extensively rearranged by heavy machinery.  What had appeared to be moraines along each side were actually levees.  Why anyone considered levees necessary wasn’t clear.  What harm would a flood do here?

Loopster didn’t care.  It was all still very beautiful, and she was rapidly closing in on the mountains.  Really an excellent route!

Along beautiful Burwash Creek. Photo looks SSW.

After going a mile or more, the floodplain started to narrow down.  The creek meandered from one side to the other.  To avoid it, Lupe climbed 10 feet up onto some perfectly flat terrain above the N bank.  Small trees, many of which were starting to turn yellow, dotted this region, along with countless little plants sporting white pom poms.

Among the young trees. Photo looks SSW.

Burwash Creek had turned SSW, so Lupe kept going that way too.  SPHP was surprised when she came to an ancient 2 track road.  Even more surprising, this faint road soon led to a fairly decent gravel one.

Amid the pom pom plants on the old 2 track road. Photo looks SSW.
Following the gravel road. Photo looks SSW.

Huh.  This gravel road must leave the Alaska Highway somewhere, Loop.  I’ve never noticed it, though.

Well, it’s going our way, SPHP.  Makes life easy!  We’re definitely going to get to the mountains now.

The gravel road continued SSW toward the same gap in the mountains that Burwash Creek was coming from.  Lupe was getting to the foothills when a small clearing appeared on the R.  Long-abandoned equipment sat rusting away here, a process that was going to take eons based on the size of it.  A gigantic metal box with an attached framework was laying upside down.

By the big metal contraption in the small clearing.

What is this, SPHP?

Oh, that’s a metal contraption, Loopster.

A contraption?  What does it do, SPHP?

Hard to say exactly, Looper, mostly because I don’t know.  Don’t think it does much of anything any more, but I bet it had something to do with a mining operation somewhere around here.

A mine?  What would they be mining for?  Gold?

Quite likely, Loop.  Sometimes there’s gold in mountain streams, or deep inside the mountains.

Oh, that’s right!  There used to be gold rushes in the Yukon, SPHP!

Yes, that’s true, Looper.  We’re personally running late as far as getting in on any gold rush action ourselves, though.

Keep an eye out all the same, SPHP.  If you happen to see a big chunk of gold laying around, I want you to add it to my rock collection.

Rest assured I’ll do that, Loop.  A big chunk of gold would certainly be a worthy addition.  Your collection is sorely lacking in them at the moment.

Just past the small clearing, a tiny tributary of Burwash Creek crossed the road.  SPHP easily stepped right over it.  Lupe soon reached a larger clearing.  She was getting close to the mountains now, and over on the S side of the creek, 2 white campers were parked up on a hill.  An orange excavator was over there, too, next to a spot where a tremendous chunk of another hill had been dug out.

Approaching the large clearing. Burwash Creek (L). Photo looks SSW.
The 2 campers (L) across Burwash Creek. Photo looks E.

After passing this apparently abandoned small mining operation, the gravel road continued into the mountains, barely gaining any elevation at all, as it followed the course of Burwash Creek.

Following Burwash Creek into the mountains. Photo looks SSW.

We’re never going to get to the top of anything this way, SPHP!  Where do we leave the road?

Not sure, Loop.  Start looking for a good place.

The sides of the valley were very steep and heavily forested.  After going around a couple of bends, a small, but very rocky, hill appeared ahead.

Approaching the rocky hill (Center). Photo looks SSW.

Once past the hill, the back side appeared to be a feasible spot to start climbing.  Turning N, Lupe scrambled up a steep bank into the forest.

About to leave the road. Back side of the rocky hill (R). Photo looks N.

Which way, SPHP?  To the top of the rocky hill?

Oh, I don’t know that we need to do that, Loop.  Let’s aim for the ridge W of it, and see what the situation is there.

The forest was thick, but not impassable, as Lupe sniffed her way N up a fairly steep slope.  After gaining 150 feet, she managed to reach a narrow ridge W of the rocky hill.  Steep-sided valleys were on both sides.  It was hard to see much due to all the trees.

Up on the ridge. Photo looks WNW.

Let’s skip the hill, and just follow this ridge W, Loop.  We’ll have to climb a long way to get above tree line.  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Following the ridgeline, Lupe climbed and climbed while having a grand time playing ferocious wild Dingo in the mossy forest.  Where the forest was thickest, the ridge was really slow going for SPHP.  In a few places, the Carolina Dog came to small openings where it was possible to get a glimpse of what was out there beyond the forest.

Burwash Creek eventually came into view.  Lupe was already far above it.  Higher yet, the N end of Kluane Lake was in sight.

A happy wild Dingo of the Yukon forests.
A glimpse (Center) of much higher ground ahead. Photo looks W.
Burwash Creek far below. Photo looks SSE.
N end of Kluane Lake, Photo looks E.

The ridge finally broadened out, becoming a gentler slope.  This region was wet and more open.  Low bushes, tussocks, and thick spongy tundra dominated, although there were still plenty of trees.  All this vegetation remained soaking wet from earlier rains.  Progress was slow, and both Lupe and SPHP got mighty wet, too.

Among the tussocks. Photo looks W.

At last, Lupe caught sight of a ridge to the W that was at least several hundred feet higher.

We’re heading right for it, SPHP!

Good!  Keep going, Looper.  Looks like there might be some much more open ground up there.

Beyond the tussocks, the slope steepened considerably.  The tundra was incredibly thick and mossy, as Lupe battled her way through dense trees, tall bushes, and even some alders.  The American Dingo started pawing the back of SPHP’s legs.

This is ridiculous, SPHP!   We can scarcely move.  It’s exhausting!

I know.  Let’s take a short break, Loop.  Once we get up to that ridge, I’m hoping we’ll find a much easier situation.

Cleverly taking the break at a spot where there were wild blueberries, SPHP sampled some.  Past their prime this late in the season, but still mighty good!  The break lasted a little longer than anticipated, but the Carolina Dog raised no objections.

Had enough yet, SPHP?  You’re starting to turn purple!

Of wild blueberries, Loopster?  Impossible!  I never get enough, but we can keep going, if you’re ready.

Resuming the struggle higher, Lupe finally managed to reach firmer ground along a minor ridgeline.  The ridge she was trying to get to was now in sight again, much closer than before, but still somewhat higher beyond a ravine chock full of colorful bushes.

Following game trails, the Carolina Dog circled around the N end of this drainage, before turning SW to gain the ridge that was her objective.

9-5-22, 1:45 PM – So much for this being open ground!  That had been mere illusion.  Although close to tree line, nearly the entire ridge was densely covered with bushes waist high on SPHP, the ground beneath them still covered with spongy tundra.  Even on the game trails, it wasn’t easy to push through this tightly-packed thicket.  Down among bushes beautifully decked out in red, gold, and orange, the American Dingo was sunk in an absolute jungle where she couldn’t see a thing.

Exploring the ridge, which wasn’t all that big, SPHP soon found a couple of places where Lupe could get a look around.  One was a spot very close to the high point where the bushes weren’t so thick.  Both the N end of Kluane Lake, and many snow-capped peaks far to the E across the vast Kluane River valley were in sight.  Burwash Creek and its floodplain were in view, too.

N end of Kluane Lake from close to the high point. Photo looks E.
Similar view with help from the telephoto lens.
Burwash Creek and its floodplain (R). Photo looks NE.
Snow-capped peaks beyond the Kluane River valley. Photo looks NE with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Looking N, the Carolina Dog could see Peak 6158, as yet unattempted, but which actually was on her list of possibilities.

Peak 6158 (R of Center). Photo looks NNW.

The most interesting and crucial view, as far as today’s adventure was concerned, though, was from a small clearing on the W side of the ridge.  Here, Lupe had enough space to relax, and there was a view W toward the mountains she was attempting to climb.

At first glance, this view was encouraging.  The mountains extended a lot higher, but looked like easy terrain, just big rounded hills.

Big, but nicely rounded slopes ahead. Photo looks W.

Deceptively easy, I’m afraid, Loop.  Hardly any trees up there, so we would have some fantastic views, but looks to me like those hills are one gigantic thicket of these same types of bushes for a long way.

What happened to all the snow we saw from the Kluane River rest area, SPHP?  Did it all melt already?

No, I can’t imagine that’s the case.  The snow is still up there, we just aren’t seeing the top of the range from here, Looper.

How much higher do we need to go, SPHP?

No telling, dear Dingo, but almost certainly quite a bit higher than what we can see from here.

If those hills really are covered with bushes, it will take us forever just to get to what we can see, SPHP.

Yeah.  Maybe we better take a break while pondering our situation?

SPHP produced some beef jerky, which Lupe eagerly accepted, then sat munching on honey roasted peanuts.  It had turned into a gorgeous day, but it was already nearly mid-afternoon, and there was a sizeable drop ahead just to get to the base of those hills to the W.

Relaxing at the small clearing on the W side of the ridge. Photo looks S.

Checking the iPhone, SPHP was in for a surprise.

Hey, Loop!  Guess what?  We’ve got cell phone service here!  Even though I don’t have any maps of this region uploaded, the Peakbagger app that’s recording your GPS track has generated a topo map.

Really?  What does it say, SPHP?  How far have we gone, and how high are we?

Says we’ve gone 5.8 miles, Looper, but that can’t be right.  I checked the GPS track right before we left the road, and it said 2.7 miles then, which seemed reasonable.  We haven’t gone any 3+ miles since leaving the road, though, not even close.  As far as how high we are, we’re at about 3,925 feet, a gain of about 1,190 feet from where we started.

And how much farther is it to Burwash Mountain, SPHP?

It’s still a long way NW of us, Loopster.  We aren’t even close to halfway to it, yet.  I see a small 6,600 foot contour, so the summit must be somewhere around 2,700 feet higher than where we are now.

Sounds impossible, SPHP!  We’ll never get that far or high today!

Oh, and there’s a long skinny lake hidden in the valley just W of this ridge, Loop.  We could go around the N end of it easily enough, if we want to keep climbing.

Not going to happen, SPHP!

I know it.  Guess this was just a reconnaissance mission, Looper.

If Lupe had continued up to the top of the big hills already in sight to the W, there was a Peak 6342 up there less than 3 miles away, but even that seemed beyond reason.

Now that I’ve got a topo map to look at, it seems clear that our best course of action would have been to follow Burwash Creek to Tatamagouche Creek, then up the back side of the range to where we could make a much closer attempt on Burwash Mountain.  That’s a backpacking trip for us.

Maybe someday, SPHP.  It does sound like fun!

9-5-22, 2:23 PM – Live and learn!  Maybe Lupe actually would return some fine day to climb Burwash Mountain via Tatamagouche Creek?  In any case, today’s reconnaissance mission up Burwash Creek had served its purpose.  Might as well head back.  After a last glance at those big hills she was never going to get to climb, Lupe was on her way.

Oh, to be able to go on forever!

The return was beautiful, and much easier going downhill.  With the help of the GPS track, Lupe kept to the same general route back through the forest, although she did do some more exploring along the way.

Heading down. Photo looks S.
Snow-capped peaks to the S with help from the telephoto lens.

The steepest part of the descent began once Burwash Creek came back into view again.  It all went well.  Soon Lupe was scrambling down the embankment leading to the gravel road.  Once there, the rest was cake.

Burwash Creek comes back into view. Photo looks S.
Back on the gravel road again. Photo looks E.
Shades of Christmas! A ptarmigan in a pear tree.
On the faint road leading back to the Burwash Creek floodplain. Photo looks NNE.
Back at Burwash Creek. Alaska Highway bridge (R) in the distance. Photo looks NE.
Good-bye for now, beautiful Burwash Creek! Photo looks SSW.
Almost back to the Alaska Highway. Where was all the snow on the mountains, though? Was SPHP wrong? Maybe it had melted! Photo looks W.

9-5-22, 5:21 PM, 55ºF – The Carolina Dog arrived back at the RAV4 happy with her Burwash Creek reconnaissance mission, despite the lack of any peakbagging success.  It had been quite the romp, neither too short, nor too long, on the sunniest, most beautiful day in weeks.  Furthermore, the possibility yet remained of returning some day to complete the mission to climb Burwash Mountain.

The rest of the evening was spent continuing S on the Alaska Highway.  Various stops along magnificent Kluane Lake were featured on the way.  Decoeli was visible from the first stop, and mud flats extending up the Slims River valley were in view from the next.

Mount Decoeli (far L) beyond the S end of Kluane Lake. Photo looks SSE.
Mount Decoeli (L). Photo looks SSE with help from the telephoto lens.
Mud flats at the SW end of Kluane Lake. Photo looks SSW.

The mud flats were much more extensive now than before the level of Kluane Lake dropped in 2016.  That was the year meltwaters from the Kaskawulsh Glacier broke through an ancient ice dam, causing a change in course that directed flow from the glacier down the Kaskawulsh River instead of into Kluane Lake via the Slims River.

Mouth of the Slims River valley. The Slims River is a mere trickle these days compared to what it was prior to 2016. Photo looks SSW.

9-5-22, 6:34 PM – By the time Lupe reached the big pullout along the Alaska Highway at the S end of Kluane Lake, SPHP was ready to call it a day.  This had been a favorite spot for years.  Lupe could spend the rest of the evening right here!  The Slims River valley, Sheep Mountain, and a long line of peaks marching away to the N were all in view.

Along the S shore of Kluane Lake looking SW toward the Slims River valley.
Sheep Mountain from Kluane Lake. Photo looks WNW.
Magnificent Kluane Lake. Photo looks N.

Dinner and barepaw walks along the beach as the sun sank in the W were all part of the plan.

9-6-22, 7:04 AM, 30ºF – Nights were fast getting longer and colder.  In the wee hours, Lupe had seen both Polaris and the Big Dipper N over Kluane Lake.  Orion, too, off to the SE.  Light out now, but the sun wasn’t up yet.  This was going to be mostly a driving and resupply day, but Lupe could enjoy a last romp along Kluane Lake while the morning alpenglow was still on the mountains.

Morning at Kluane Lake. Photo looks WSW.

The drive S along the Alaska Highway was beautiful, but SPHP became sleepy and pulled over at a rest stop for a 2 hour nap.  At Whitehorse, SPHP fueled up the RAV4, and bought a roasted chicken, orange juice, and crackers.  By mid-afternoon, Lupe was standing on Highway No. 7 with the W subpeak of massive Mount White (5,016 ft.) in view.

Mount White (L) from Hwy 7 to Atlin. Photo looks SE.

Highway No. 7!  Are we going back to Atlin, SPHP?

Yes, we are, Loop, but first we’ll stop for lunch at our favorite ridge with the grand view of Mount Minto (6,913 ft.) and the N end of Atlin Lake.

N end of Atlin Lake with Mount Hitchcock (L) and Mount Minto (R). Photo looks S.

The roasted chicken and Ritz crackers for lunch were tasty.  Twice, Lupe got to roam through the forest on the ridge with the big view looking for squirrels.  She even went on another reconnaissance mission to discover whether or not there was an easy way to get to Mount Minto, with strange and disappointing results.

9-6-22, 8:36 AM – Back in Atlin again, Lupe stood next to the TarahneBirch Mountain (6,765 ft.) and Atlin Mountain (6.722 ft.) and were stirring sights across the lake, but the sky was gloomily overcast now, and the little town seemed practically dead.

By the Tarahne (R). Birch Mountain (L). Photo looks SSW.
Atlin Mountain (Center) across Atlin Lake. Photo looks SW.

Birch Mountain wasn’t that long ago!  Wish we were going there again, SPHP!

Me too, Loop!  Birch was fantastic!

The sky isn’t very encouraging, SPHP.  What are we going to do here?  What’s the next big thing?  Atlin Mountain?

Atlin Mountain would be awesome, Loop, but your next big adventure awaits down Warm Bay Road.  Weather permitting, of course.

Shortly thereafter, as dusk continued to deepen, the American Dingo headed S out of town.

By beautiful Burwash Creek, Yukon Territory, Canada 9-5-22

Links:

Next Adventure                     Prior Adventure

Donjek Crossing Mountain, Yukon Territory, Canada (9-9-19)

Decoeli, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-9-16)

Sheep Mountain, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-13-17)

Birch Mountain, Skagway Ranges, British Columbia, Canada – Part 1: Across Atlin Lake to Teresa Island (8-12-22)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

North to Alaska – Return of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood! (8-17-22)

Days 19, 20, and Part 1 of Day 21 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-17-22, 7:19 AM, 55ºF, grassy bluff overlooking Kusawa Lake – Rained all night, and was still raining as Loopster got underway again.  The 20 km gravel road back to the Alaska Highway was a sea of mud, the poor RAV4 a filthy mess by the time SPHP turned W onto the pavement.  When the American Dingo reached Haines Junction, though, the RAV4 was looking shiny and new again, except for the rear end, which the rain hadn’t been able to wash off.

How far are we going today, SPHP?

Dunno, Loop.  Depends on how long this rain continues.  All the way to Alaska, easy, if it keeps up like this.

Alaska!  Today?  Are we really that close to Alaska, SPHP?

Yup!  Remember when we climbed AB Mountain near Skagway, and you became the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, Loop?  We already passed the turn to Skagway before we even got to Whitehorse.

We skipped Skagway?  Why?  What part of Alaska are we going to, SPHP?

As far N as we can, Looper!

The Brooks Range, SPHP?

And beyond!  Deadhorse, sweet puppy!  I want to see the North Slope.  The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood is returning to the true Arctic!  Of course, we won’t get that far in a day, but what’s the rush?  We’ll be traveling through some fabulous territory.  If things dry out, we’ll be making stops at some great spots you’ll recognize along the way.

N of Haines Junction, it was only 48ºF as SPHP drove past Decoeli.  Lost in rain and fog, there was no recognizing that fabulous peak.

8-17-22, 10:02 AM – Only a short time later, the pavement was dry as SPHP made the turn off the highway onto the big pullout at the S end of Kluane Lake.  Clouds hung gloomily over Sheep Mountain, but at least it wasn’t raining.  A SW wind kicked up dust over in the Slims River valley.  A lot of memories here as Lupe took a stroll along the lakeshore.

Kluane Lake. Sheep Mountain (L). Photo looks NNW.
Slims River valley (Center) from Kluane Lake. Sheep Mountain (R). Photo looks WSW.

So long since the last time Lupe had been here that SPHP decided to stay a while.  With a view of the mountains marching away to the N beyond Kluane Lake, SPHP spent a couple of hours working on the trip journal, glancing up now and then to watch the waves roll in.  Loop slept on her pink blanket, enjoying the rest after her windy ascent of Kusawa Ridge (5,085 ft.) yesterday.

Taking a second leisurely stroll along the lake before moving on, Lupe went farther this time.  The weather was even more unsettled now, the wind picking up, and the waves larger than they’d been earlier.  SPHP enjoyed the walk right along the shoreline best, but the Carolina Dog preferred sniffing among the young aspens beyond the beach on the way back to the RAV4.

Kluane Lake. Photo looks N.

8-17-22, 1:13 PM, 59ºF – Light rain set in again as the drive N resumed along the W shore of Kluane Lake.  This shower was soon left behind, though, and blue sky appeared.  Hit 65ºF!  For the first time today, a clear view of the mountains to the W was possible.  SPHP daydreamed about climbing them, a mountain NW of Burwash Creek looked particularly interesting.

8-17-22, 2:34 PM – Didn’t seem to take hardly any time at all to get here.  The weather was kind of crazy.  Blue skies were nearly gone again.  Cool and breezy, big clouds, dust, and fog filled the sky.  Distant views of the St. Elias Mountains to the W vanished almost as soon as Lupe arrived.

However, she could still see one awesome mountain just beyond the Alaska Highway bridge over the Donjek River.

Donjek Crossing Mountain from the Donjek River. Photo looks E.

Donjek Crossing Mountain, SPHP!  Remember when we climbed it?  Oh, what a fabulous day that was!

Heh!  It was nearly your last day ever, too, Looper, if you recall!

Lunch time!  The Donjek River was another favorite spot.  Might as well eat here.  Loop took strolls down along the river both before and after lunch.  The weather continued acting up.  Dust, wind, fog, patches of blue sky, intermittent rain drops, and peels of thunder!  A bizarro day, but it was fun being here.

Near the mighty Donjek River. Photo looks SSW.
Enjoying all natural mineral water from the silt-laden Donjek. Photo looks SSW.

SPHP completely caught up the trip journal.  Tempting to stay right here, but it wasn’t that late in the day yet, and Alaska was calling!

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

8-17-22, 5:46 PM – Another magnificent river wasn’t that much farther N, one Lupe had never really spent much time at, since it wasn’t as easily accessible as the Donjek.  Skies were only partly cloudy when she got to the White River, so taking this opportunity to scout it out a little better seemed in order.

Horsecamp Hill (4,600 ft.) had been on Lupe’s list of possibilities for years, and SPHP wanted to get a better look at it, too.  Might be some awesome views from up there, if it wasn’t too heavily forested.

White River upstream view. Photo looks S.
Downstream view of the White River. Horsecamp Hill (L). Photo looks N.

N of the White River, SPHP was surprised at the number of potholes and stretches of gravel.  The Alaska Highway had deteriorated in the past few years.  All still perfectly passable, though, at somewhat reduced speeds.

8-17-22, 7:03 PM – Well, actually 6:03 PM Alaska time!  Lupe was here!

Entering Alaska for the first time in 3 years!

This is a terrific sign, SPHP!  Why haven’t we ever stopped here before?

Because I never thought to look for a Welcome to Alaska sign until after we went through US Customs, Loop, and this sign comes just before it.

8-17-22, 6:13 PM – After 2 questions, the customs agent returned SPHP’s passport, wishing Lupe a good day.

Congratulations Miss Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood!  You’re in!

Thank you, SPHP!  That was easy!

As always!  Helps that you’ve got an innocent, trustworthy face, Loop!

92 miles to Tok!  A peaceful evening drive through a region of low hills ensued.  Tall, thin, Dr. Suess-like trees of the boreal forest extended far and away on both sides of the Alaska Highway.

8-17-22, 8:00 PM – Missed it!  Turning around, SPHP drove back to a big, paved pullout less than 25 miles from Tok.  Not a soul here other than an annoying number of mosquitoes.  Not much of a view, either, but this would do for the night.

8-18-22, 7:12 AM, 58ºF – Clear and sunny in Tok!  Compared to what it had been in Canada, cheap gas, too.  At a mere $4.769 per gallon, SPHP filled the RAV4 completely.

Lupe had only been on the last stretch of the Alaska Highway from Tok to Delta Junction once before, and SPHP had little recollection of it.  This was not mountainous territory, most of the drive merely hilly to pancake flat.  Highlights included bridges over 3 rivers, the Robertson, Johnson, and Gerstle.  Large, braided streams, they were somewhat reminiscent of the Donjek and White.

8-18-22, 9:53 AM – N of Delta Junction, SPHP stopped at a pullout along the Tanana River.  Time to get out, have a look, and sniff the air for a few minutes.  No sooner had Lupe ventured over to the river’s edge than a couple of boys came running over.  They asked a million questions about Lupe, wanted to pet her, and were anxious to show SPHP a couple of sticks they had been whittling with jack knives.

New found friends by the Tanana River.

Gray with silt, the Tanana was like all the other big rivers Lupe had been seeing.  Snow-capped peaks beyond it were an inspiring sight, but a long way off.  A few miles later, another pullout on a bluff provided a better overall view of the Tanana River itself.

Magnificent, unidentified peaks beyond the Tanana River.
Tanana River from the bluff.

The American Dingo went into a barking frenzy prompted by low-flying jets near Eielson AFB.  North Pole wasn’t much farther, and Fairbanks was just beyond that.

Beneath sunny skies with puffy white clouds, Lupe reached Fairbanks for the first time in 5 years before noon.  Last chance to to resupply and fuel up with cheap gas!  Free potable water at Pioneer Park, too.  Once those tasks were taken care of, the Carolina Dog was free to move on.  Everything was going according to plan.  Only one problem.

Decision time, Loop.

About what, SPHP?

About where to go, Looper.

I thought we already knew?  We’re heading N, right, SPHP?

That was the plan, but now I’m not so sure.  Checked the weather forecast for Coldfoot when we got into town.  It’s completely flipped from the last forecast the iPhone gave me back in Whitehorse 3 days ago.  Coldfoot was supposed to be sunny and clear for a whole week.  Now that we’ve come all this way, it’s saying 90% chance of rain today, 70% tomorrow, and cloudy for days after that.

Well, what are our options, SPHP?

We could delay our jaunt N by a couple of days, Loop.  The forecast looks a little better down here.  Pinnell Mountain (4,934 ft.) is NE out the Steese Highway.  Might be fun?

You decide, SPHP!  I’m happy either way.

After dithering for half an hour, SPHP made a questionable decision, continuing due N at Fox.

The drive to Livengood was beautiful!  Elliot Highway No. 2 wound up and down heavily forested ridges separated by deep valleys.  Not much traffic, except some big trucks.  Knew where those were coming from!

8-18-22, 5:21 PM – Blinking in the late afternoon sunshine, Lupe stood in front of a sign she hadn’t seen in nearly 5 years.  Must have rained not too long ago, because the pullout in front of it was muddy.

At the start of the 414 mile long Dalton Highway.

Naturally, the Dalton Highway was damp and muddy in spots, too.  The rear end of the RAV4 was soon on its way back to being a filthy mess, but that was to be expected sooner or later on the Dalton even in the best of times.  The drive was awesome!  Occasional sprinkles from silver-lined clouds, the pale blue sky of the far N over dark green forests, and from some of the highest ridges, views of distant hills and mountains of the trackless wilderness.

After not having been here for so many years, it was like returning to a world once glimpsed in a long forgotten dream.

Near MP40. Out for a short stroll along the scenic Dalton Highway.

8-18-22, 7:00 PM – MP56!  Lupe stood at the upper end of the bridge over the Yukon River, first big scenic landmark along the Dalton Highway.  Although traffic was only intermittent, it wasn’t a good idea to stand there too long.  A quick photo, and SPHP called her back.

On the Dalton Highway bridge over the Yukon River. Photo looks NNE.

Much safer to check out the mighty Yukon River from the N bank.  After driving over the bridge, SPHP parked the RAV4 near an old friend, the Alaska oil pipeline.  Lupe was happy to see it again before wandering over to the river for a look.

By the Alaska oil pipeline. Photo looks N.
Dalton Highway bridge from the N bank. Photo looks SW.
Yukon River display.
Down by the N bank. Photo looks SSE.
Evening along the Yukon River. Photo looks WNW.

Lemon pepper chicken!  Now that was tasty, SPHP!

Guess I should have bought 2 of them in Fairbanks, Loop.  We ate the whole thing!

Full of chicken, the lovely evening drive N continued.

8-18-22, 8:53 PM, MP98 – Must have rained hard here within the last hour.  The last few miles of the Dalton Highway before SPHP made the turn into the Finger Mountain Wayside were a sloppy mess full of big mud puddles.  Somewhere the sun was still up, but Lupe couldn’t see it due to all the dark clouds toward the N.

Finger Mountain (2,202 ft.), SPHP!  We’ve got to climb it!

Absolutely, sweet puppy!  Let’s go!

Finger Mountain’s summit was practically right there, only a short stroll N of the rest area.  A nature trail wound up a small hill to the dramatic rock formation at the very top.  The air was cool and moist, on the chilly side, actually, as SPHP took the long way around reading various plaques about the flora along the way.

Two ravens flew off as Lupe began the tiny scramble to the summit.  SPHP had no intention of getting up there, but was more than willing to provide the American Dingo with the required, slightly nerve-wracking, final boost.

On Finger Mountain again for the first time in nearly 5 years. Photo looks NW.

Oh, my gosh, SPHP!  Can’t believe I’m here on Finger Mountain again!

I know!  Seems so strange, and yet so familiar, doesn’t it?  You’ve almost done it, too.  Only 17 miles to the Arctic Circle from here.  The return of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood is nearly complete!

I’ve been neglecting my Arctic Sisterhood duties for a long time, SPHP, but it wasn’t my fault.  All Covid-19’s fault!

Tell me about it, Loop!  None of that matters now, though, we’re back!  This is as far as we’re going tonight, though.  Your all new adventures in the true Arctic start tomorrow, weather permitting, of course.

As the evening sky demonstrated, that last part was somewhat in doubt.  After helping Lupe down off Finger Mountain’s summit, a stroll was taken across the Dalton Highway to another, smaller rock outcropping with a view of Caribou Mountain (3,179 ft.) off to the WNW.

Remember our long journey to Caribou Mountain, Loop?  Nobody goes there.

How can I ever forget, SPHP?  It was all grand, until the very end.

Oh, yeah!  We got soaked, didn’t we?

I sure did, SPHP.  At least you had your old blue Cookie Monster outfit!

8-19-22, early – SPHP opened an eye.  Lupe was peering out the window of the RAV4 into a thick, gray fog.

You’re awake, SPHP?  Good!  Can you let me out for a few minutes?

Sure thing, Loop.  Need to sniff the air?

The Carolina Dog needed to do more than that.  Once out of the RAV4, Lupe puked along the perimeter of the wayside parking lot.  Not a lot, just a little.

Queasy, aye, Looper?  Too much lemon pepper chicken?  Don’t worry about it.  Unless this fog dissipates, we won’t be going anywhere for a while.

Returning to the RAV4, Lupe got back up onto her pink blanket.  Clearly, a morning snooze was in order.  By the time Loop woke up again, the fog had a blue tinge to it, and a bright spot revealed the position of the sun.

How ya feeling, Loopster?

Much better, SPHP, thank you!

Good!  Looks like this fog is about to break up.  Feel up to climbing Finger Mountain again?

It’s so easy, I might as well log another ascent while we’re still here, SPHP.  After all, not very often that I get the chance.  We ought to visit Finger Rock, too!

That’s the spirit!  You must be feeling better, Loop.  Glad to see it!

8-19-22, 8:24 AM –  In weak sunshine, Lupe stood atop Finger Mountain once again.  She stayed there only long enough for SPHP to get photos from a couple of different angles before helping her back down again.

Back atop Finger Mountain. Photo looks W.
The most dramatic angle. Photo looks SSW.
The greater Finger Mountain summit region. Photo looks NNE.

How was it up there, Loop?  Still feeling good enough to visit Finger Rock?

I’m fine now, SPHP.  Let’s do it!

Finger Rock, which Finger Mountain is named for, was 0.5 mile SSE of the true summit Lupe had already visited.  Bushes along an intermittent use path leading to it were soaking wet, and noticeably taller than the only other time Lupe had visited Finger Rock years ago.  By the time she got to it again, the Carolina Dog mighty soggy, too.

Plaque about Finger Mountain and Finger Rock.
Approaching Finger Rock (L). Photo looks SSE.

Since Finger Rock wasn’t the summit of anything other than itself, Lupe contented herself with a little light scrambling around on the big rocks near its base.  Finger Rock looked quite different, tall and skinny, or kind of fat and stout, depending on the angle of view.

The short, stout look. Photo looks E.
Sunny side. Photo looks WSW.

Content with her morning inspection of famous Finger Rock, Lupe headed back to the Finger Mountain Wayside.

8-19-22, 9:46 AM – From a boulder near the summit of Finger Mountain, Lupe scanned the Kanuti River basin.  Still quite cloudy that way.

Kanuti River Basin (R) from Finger Mountain. Photo looks N.

Just think!  We can see more than 2/3 of the remaining distance to the Arctic Circle from here, Loop.  Is the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood ready to resume her adventures in the true Arctic?

I can hardly wait, SPHP!  Been waiting for this day for a long, long time!

Me, too, Loopster!  Me, too!

On Finger Mountain, Yukon-Koyukuk Ranges, Alaska 8-18-22.

Links:

Next Adventure                        Prior Adventure

BLM Dalton Highway Visitor Guide

AB Mountain – Lupe Joins the Arctic Sisterhood, Skagway, Alaska (8-7-17).

Slope Mountain and Highlights of the Dalton Highway Revisited (8-22-17 & 8-23-17)

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