American Dingo – Page 29 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Paulina Peak, Columbia Plateau, Newberry National Volcanic Monument, Oregon (8-27-21)

Day 22 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

7:30 AM, Cascade Lakes Highway –

Elk Lake! Campground and a beach. Want to try it, Loop?

Elk? You mean giant deers, SPHP?

Oh, yeah! What was I thinking? Giant Deers Lake, Looper!

Yes, then! Giant Deers Lake sounds fabulous! Let’s go there, SPHP!

SPHP made the turn. Great choice! Giant Deers Lake was fabulous! No giant deers in sight at the moment, but there were squirrels in the pines. Lupe was happy with that. Colorful sailboats and catamarans were lined up along the water’s edge, and across the lake were terrific views of both Mount Bachelor (9,065 ft.) and South Sister (10,358 ft.).

**Mount Bachelor** (L) from **Giant Deers Lake**. Photo looks E.

**South Sister** (Center). Photo looks N.

Lupe had climbed South Sister only yesterday, so the plan was for a rest and repositioning day today. Beyond that, though, nothing was set in stone. SPHP wasn’t even sure if the American Dingo should stay in the Cascades, or head for the coast hoping to escape the wildfire smoke that always seemed to be hanging around.

No need to decide quite yet. The trip journal was way behind. SPHP could work on it right here while enjoying the lovely views.

Some varmint ran under the RAV4. Lupe was thoroughly entertained, watching and waiting for it to emerge for hours. Turned out that Giant Deers Lake was shallow and warm. SPHP enjoyed a refreshing swim. Progress was made on the trip journal, but by mid-afternoon SPHP was sick of that.

Giant Deers Lake had been lovely, but decision time now. Where to?

Kind of a risky choice, Looper, but I’ve been thinking.

Thinking? That is fraught with danger, SPHP, especially when you’re the one doing it!

Uh-huh. No, I mean I’ve been thinking about where we should go next, feisty Dingo! Could maybe do Paulina Peak (7,984 ft.) yet this evening. Would leave us well within striking distance of Diamond Peak (8,744 ft.) tomorrow, which is a big climb that we don’t have time for today. Might be our only chance to hit Paulina before heading to the coast.

Sounds like a plan, SPHP! But what’s so risky about it?

Just that Paulina Peak is off by its lonesome out on the Columbia Plateau E of the Cascades. Might be a lot of wildfire smoke out that way. Could turn out to be a complete waste of time and fuel.

As long as this drought holds, isn’t that always going to be the case on this Dingo Vacation, SPHP? Might as well try it!

The Newberry Volcanic National Monument entrance station was closed when Looper arrived. A sign said visitors should check in at the visitor center. OK, fine. However, the visitor center also turned out to be closed. Huh. Oh, well!

A R turn onto the road that goes to the Paulina Peak lookout was only a short distance beyond the visitor center. Could have, but SPHP didn’t drive all the way to it, parking instead less than a mile up the road at the Paulina Peak trailhead. Lupe would have more fun exploring Crater Rim Trail No. 57 the rest of the way.

5:05 PM, 68ºF, Paulina Peak trailhead – The trailhead was vacant, but within minutes, a pickup with enormous knobby tires pulled in. A guy and a brown dog leapt out. Heading straight for the Crater Rim trail, they immediately vanished into the forest.

Lupe waited for SPHP before she was on her way, as well.

Heading ESE through the forest, Crater Rim Trail No. 57 started out flat or climbing slowly. Not much to see except trees, which didn’t bother the American Dingo in the least, as she kept a sharp eye and keen nose out for squirrels. Occasional blue diamonds marked the route.

Setting out on Crater Rim Trail No. 57. Photo looks SE.

After 0.33 mile, the trail turned S, climbing more rapidly near an edge. Lupe caught glimpses of cliffs high on Paulina Peak’s N face. However, she lost sight of them when the trail veered SW. Ahead, a long straight stretch rose steeply through the forest. Actually, it wasn’t that bad, but sure felt steep after yesterday’s workout on South Sister!

On the long straight stretch. Photo looks SW.

The trail eventually curved S, then E, climbing more slowly again. Lupe reached a much better viewpoint where the same cliffs were visible.

Cliffs along the **N side of Paulina Peak**. Photo looks ESE.

For a little way, the trail trended SE near big drop-offs, or behind a low ridge of sandy soil that ran along them. Down in the Newberry Caldera, Paulina Lake was sometimes visible off to the N.

Behind the sandy bank (L). Photo looks SE.

**SE end of Paulina Lake**. Photo looks NE.

Crater Rim Trail No. 57 made a second foray SW, but this stretch wasn’t as long or as steep as the earlier one had been. The trail turned E again.

On another foray SW, away from the crater rim. Photo looks SW.

Loop was somewhere N of Paulina Peak’s lower W summit, when the guy and the brown dog appeared again, heading this way. Lupe got to meet Daisy. Slender and spry, Daisy was 12 years old, and still climbing mountains! She’d already been to the top of Paulina Peak.

After bidding Daisy adieu, wishing her happy trails, Lupe kept going. Displays began to appear about disappearing whitebark pine forests. The placards said whitebark pines were dominant on Paulina Peak, but increasingly rare throughout much of their former range.

As Loop continued up the mountain, it seemed that the displays were in the wrong order. SPHP got an education on the plight of the whitebark pines in reverse. Meanwhile, Lupe came to more viewpoints.

Getting close to the top (R)? **East Lake** (L). Photo looks NE.

By now, Lupe was already quite high on the mountain. Climbing more slowly again, Crater Rim Trail No. 57 continued E near the N edge. A high flat ridge jutting out to the N turned out not to be the summit. The trail turned SE. A clearing was on the R (S), when Loopster reached a junction with Paulina Peak Trail No. 51.

Signage at the junction with Paulina Peak Trail No. 51.

Only 0.25 mile to the summit! Abandoning Crater Rim Trail No. 57, which veered off to the SW here, Lupe continued SE on Trail No. 51. Whitebark pine displays appeared at regular intervals.

Clark’s Nutcracker – Whitebark’s Best Friend

Views N of Paulina Peak kept improving. In addition to Paulina Lake, East Lake could now be seen down in the Newberry Caldera, too, along with the lower end of the Big Obsidian Flow.

**Paulina Lake** (L). **East Lake** (R) beyond the **Big Obsidian Flow** (R). Photo looks NE.

Near the end, Lupe could see a railing along the upper edge of the next cliff to the SE. Two more whitebark pine displays were along the final short, steep stretch of Trail No. 51.

Almost there! The lookout parking lot is up on the cliff ahead. Photo looks SE.

Whitebark Alert: Mountain Pine Beetle Invasion

6:49 PM, 63ºF, Paulina Peak (7,984 ft.) – Shadows were lengthening when Lupe arrived at a parking lot. Several vehicles and half a dozen people were here. The big views were toward the N and NW, but Lupe’s first order of business was to tag Paulina Peak’s true summit, a collection of boulders capping a 20 foot high hill just W of the parking lot.

The true summit was easy to identify. One big rock in particular was a good foot higher than any of the others. Not a roomy perch, but Lupe easily scrambled up there.

**Paulina Peak’s summit** from the parking lot. Photo looks SW.

Heading up to tag the true summit. **Paulina Lake** (L), **East Lake** (R). Photo looks NNE.

**Paulina Peak summit.** Photo looks WSW.

Paulina Peak was easy, SPHP! Glad we did this!

Me too, Loop! Except that now I’m all depressed about whitebark pines.

And I’ll be all depressed, too, if you forgot to bring a chocolate coconut bar again, SPHP. Please tell me that you remembered to bring one!

Fear not! Not going to fail you twice in a row, Looper! Got one in the pack. Shall we find a spot to split it?

More vehicles and people were arriving. Paulina Peak was sort of busy. A very short use trail ran from the NE end of the parking lot over to a small, exposed viewpoint without a railing where both lakes and more of the Big Obsidian Flow were in sight.

Hoping to find a quiet spot to split the chocolate coconut bar, Lupe and SPHP arrived at this viewpoint moments after a terrible tragedy struck a family with children. Oblivious to the danger, an angry young girl flung her stuffed animal in midst of a tantrum. In shock and horror, she then burst into tears, weeping bitterly after seeing it disappear over the cliff.

Devastated, the girl and her family quickly departed, before some other unforeseen evil could strike. Seeing SPHP splitting the chocolate coconut bar with Lupe, a much calmer girl asked SPHP if she could give Lupe a piece? Her mother was dubious, but let her do so. Both were surprised by the polite and dainty manner in which the Carolina Dog took it from the girl’s fingers, prior to making short work of it.

Mom was happy! The girl was happy! Even SPHP was happy. Lupe licked her chops.

Wow! SPHP, did you notice how happy they were just because I ate a piece of chocolate coconut bar?

Yup. The girl thought feeding you was fun.

Oh, it is fun, SPHP! I certainly enjoyed it! Got any more chocolate coconut bars? We could make money doing this! You provide chocolate coconut bars (at a decent profit, of course!) to anyone who wants to feed a Carolina Dog, and I’ll eat them. Why, we could get rich doing this!

And you could be the size of 3 normal Carolina Dogs, and die of chocolate coconut bar poisoning, too!

Along the N rim, heading over to the Big Obsidian Flow viewpoint. Photo looks NE.

**Central Pumice Cone (7,084 ft.)** (Center), **Paulina Lake** (L). **Big Obsidian Flow** and **East Lake** (R). Photo looks NNE.

**East Lake** (L) and **Big Obsidian Flow** (foreground). Photo looks NE.

SPHP’s earlier fears that Paulina Peak might be lost in a cloud of thick smoke from wildfires had been partially correct. Especially bad toward the horizons, smoke was visible in all directions, yet the air seemed quite a bit clearer locally. Lupe checked out the rest of the summit region.

A hazy plain beyond low forested hills was about all there was to see to the S or E, and trees hid the views to the W. Close to where the road came up, there was an outhouse, and a Paulina Peak Overlook sign.

Half an hour before sunset, a small crowd eagerly awaited the big event along the N rim of the lookout. Evidently, sunset from Paulina Peak was a big deal. Half a dozen people had fancy, expensive cameras with huge lenses and tripods. Best views locally were of Paulina and East Lakes plus the Big Obsidian Flow, but that wasn’t what they were here for.

A clear day would provided a terrific view of the Cascade Range. Off to the NW, Mount Bachelor (9,065 ft), South Sister (10,358 ft.), Middle Sister (10,047 ft.), and North Sister (10,085 ft.) were all lined up. And way off to the N, Mount Hood (11,239 ft.) stood barely detectable in the smoke on the edge of vision.

Unfortunately, drifting in from the W, the smoke seemed to be getting worse. As the sun sank toward the murk, Lupe visited various vantage points for scenic effect.

From **near the true summit** L to R on the L: **Mount Bachelor**, **South Sister**, **Middle Sister**, and **North Sister.** **Mount Hood** barely detectable (R). Photo looks NNW.

Down at the parking lot. **Paulina Lake** (R). Photo looks N.

**Mount Bachelor** (L), **South Sister** (Center). Photo looks NW.

I don’t know, Loop! Not a cloud in the sky, and smoky. Too bad, but I think everyone is waiting in vain tonight. Doubt there’s going to be much of a sunset at all. Want to head back while we’ve still got some light?

Height of the evening’s glory. **Mount Bachelor** (L) and **The Three Sisters** (Center & R). Photo looks NW.

Another big day tomorrow, SPHP? Like South Sister was?

Hope so, Loop! Depends on the smoke. Might just drive to the coast.

Well, I suppose we may as well head back then.

15 minutes before sunset, while the crowd still waited, Lupe took a final look at South Sister, where she’d been only yesterday. The Carolina Dog then started back down to Crater Rim Trail No. 57, where twilight faded among the ancient whitebark pines of Paulina Peak. (8:29 PM, 61ºF)

**Paulina Peak**, Columbia Plateau, Newberry Volcanic Monument, Oregon 8-27-21

Links:

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GPS Track by T J Kodras (8-16-21)

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 302 – Gimlet Pond (4-18-22)

11:30 AM, start of USFS Road No. 203 off Rochford Road – What? Totally unexpected! A crew was doing some kind of maintenance work on USFS Road No. 203, the very road SPHP had chosen for today’s expedition in light of Cousin Dusty’s need for a relatively easy experience.

At the start of USFS Road No. 203 with unexpected road work ahead. Photo looks NW.

Fortunately, the maintenance work wasn’t a big deal. Merely a culvert being replaced. After waiting just a couple of minutes, the friendly two man crew waved Lupe and the pack by without further delay. No. 203 soon curved around a hillside, blotting out the sound of the machinery busily digging a trench for the new culvert.

Only two days ago, it had felt like winter up at frozen Sylvan Lake, all cold and gray with snow on the ground. Springtime today, though! Sunny and comfortably warm with a clear blue sky overhead.

Around the bend beyond the road work. Photo looks NE.

The plan was to escort Uncle Joe, and Cousins Dusty and Laddie up the scenic, gentle Gimlet Creek valley. It was a perfect choice, since Dusty was now nearly 16 years old. The objective, to the extent there was one, and provided Dusty could manage it, was to visit Gimlet Pond 2.5 miles up the valley.

Cousin Dusty has always enjoyed water, and soon availed herself of an opportunity to cool off in Gimlet Creek.

No. 203 proceeded NNW up the valley with little variation in course. Elevation gain was slow, but steady.

Heading up the **Gimlet Creek valley**. Photo looks N.

Lupe with Cousins Laddie (Center) and Dusty (R).

Looking back down the valley. Photo looks S.

The valley eventually widened out. When a single track trail closer to the creek appeared, everyone abandoned the road for a while to march through a field.

The day was getting warmer. Dusty and Lupe started taking frequent dips in Gimlet Creek. Laddie drank a little water, but preferred not to get his fancy, long thick coat wet.

Abandoning the road to take the trail through the field. Photo looks N.

Dusty helps herself to a drink. Photo looks N.

Laddie, Lupe and Joe on the trail. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe takes a turn in the creek while landlubber Laddie strolls by. Photo looks WSW.

Near the N end of the field, Gimlet Creek flowed right over USFS Road No. 203. The road climbed more steeply from here, soon passing a small rise on the L (W). Briefly leaving the road, everyone went up onto the rise, which provided a great view back down the valley.

Getting close to where **Gimlet Creek** flows over USFS Road No. 203. Photo looks N.

Laddie and Dusty at the shallow ford. Photo looks S.

Looking back down the valley from the rise. Photo looks S.

Although Dusty still seemed to be doing fine, Joe was beginning to think that maybe this was far enough. However, Lupe had explored this valley on at least a couple of different occasions. It had been years since she’d last been here, but SPHP was almost certain Gimlet Pond wasn’t all that much farther now.

In that case, Joe was fine with letting Dusty continue. Beyond the rise, now on the W side of the valley, the road flattened out entirely. Several deer had been seen in the big field, but many were now visible racing across the N end of the valley ahead, close to where Gimlet Pond should be. More and more deer kept appearing until nearly 100 of them must have dashed by.

Joe pointing toward deer in the distance. Photo looks NNW.

As expected, it didn’t take much longer to reach Gimlet Pond, yet not a deer was in sight by the time Lupe got there. The lovely pond was just as she remembered it. Cousin Dusty went wading almost right away.

Arriving at **Gimlet Pond**. Photo looks NW.

Joe and Laddie on the bridge over the outlet. Photo looks NNW.

Dusty wading in **Gimlet Pond**. Photo looks SW.

Everyone except Dusty crossed the bridge over the outlet to get a look at Gimlet Pond from along the N shore. Dusty merely waded through the pond. Loopster soon decided she might as well go wading, too. As usual, Laddie showed no interest in getting wet.

Dusty emerges from **Gimlet Pond**. Photo looks S.

12:42 PM – About time to let Dusty rest for a while, so a break was taken on a small hill overlooking Gimlet Pond from the S. Looking down the Gimlet Creek valley, Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.) was visible far to the SSE.

Sitting in the shade of the pines, Joe and SPHP had Kind bars and apples while the dogs shared a couple of chocolate coconut bars. Lupe also had some Taste of the Wild, which Cousin Dusty shared in, too.

**Black Elk Peak** (L of Center) on the far horizon. Photo looks SSE.

Dusty, Laddie, and Joe relaxing on the hill. Photo looks NNE.

**Gimlet Pond** from the hill. Photo looks NE.

Oh, it was great to be here at Gimlet Pond on a lovely spring day! Lupe and SPHP were happy that Cousin Dusty had made it in good shape.

Toward the end of the rest break, Uncle Joe took an interest in the field W of the hill. Looked like it might be a good place to look for signs of old Native American encampments, so the whole pack went down there to have a sniff around.

Searching for artifacts. Photo looks SW.

Joe found nothing in the field. Further investigation down by the creek yielded the same result, but it was fun to look.

Joe and Dusty down by the creek. Photo looks E.

Well, soon time to head back. Happily, still another 2.5 miles of fun in the Black Hills along Gimlet Creek to go. Better savor every moment! Tomorrow, Joe, Andrea, Dusty and Laddie would return to Colorado.

About ready to head back. Photo looks E from just downstream of Gimlet Pond.

Leaving the **Gimlet Pond region** on USFS Road No. 203. Photo looks S.

Cousin Dusty was a veteran of many Black Hills expeditions with Lupe. On the way back, it was sad to think that at nearly 16, this might be her last one. Dusty had done great! Clearly, she was still enjoying herself. Cousin Dusty always did love the Black Hills where she was free to roam without a leash, a rare treat in crowded Colorado.

Faithful Dusty following Joe while Laddie and Lupe lag behind. Photo looks SSE.

By the time it was all over and done with, Dusty had gone more than 5 miles. Sylvan Lake, the Custer State Park buffalo hunt, and now Gimlet Pond! Lupe and SPHP were so glad that Joe, Dusty, and Laddie had come to visit, and especially hoped that Cousin Dusty would make it back to the beautiful Black Hills again some day.

**Gimlet Creek valley**, not too far from the end, Black Hills of South Dakota 4-18-22

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South Sister, Cascade Range, Oregon (8-26-21)

Day 21 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

7:40 AM, 41ºF, Cascade Lakes Highway, Dutchman Flats – Luck of the Dingo, a miracle! A minor one, anyway. Twice during the wee hours, there’d been rain. Not much. Only light rain for 20 minutes the second time, and that was the big deluge. Then pre-dawn, Orion had been gleaming near the E horizon.

And now? Mount Bachelor (9.065 ft.) stood against a sky containing only a trace of the thick smoke that had completely hidden it when Lupe arrived yesterday evening.

Wooo-hooo, Loopster! We are so extremely lucky! Gonna be alright! Thar she blows!

Fantastic news, SPHP! No trip to the coast today after all. But with a name like “Bachelor”, that mountain’s got to be a dude, not a she.

Hah! Bachelor isn’t what I’m talking about, Loop. Look over there! That’s why we’re here!

9 miles NW, capped by a wispy lenticular cloud, a massive volcano was in sight. Hadn’t been visible at all yesterday evening, but there she was.

Wow! That’s where we’re going, SPHP?

Yup. You’re in for a real slog today, Looper! Nearly 4,900 feet of elevation gain in 6 miles from Devils Lake. Most definitely a she-mountain, too! That’s South Sister (10,358 ft.)!

**South Sister** (R) from **Dutchman Flats**. Photo looks NW.

9:02 AM, 46ºF, Devils Lake trailhead – Surprisingly little activity, but lots of vehicles around. Over at the campground, people were stirring as Lupe set out on South Sister Climber Trail No. 36. Boardwalk bridges got her over a couple of streams in a flat region before reaching Cascade Lakes Highway.

Crossing the highway, the American Dingo began an incredible journey.

Start of **South Sister Climber Trail No. 36**.

Immediately N of the highway, the trail was flat as it ran along the W bank of a lovely stream. However, a steady climb N up a forested valley quickly commenced. The stream soon wandered farther E. Lupe went over to see it tumbling down mossy stones, and get a drink.

Returning to the trail, the climb resumed. The stream soon disappeared entirely, whether up a side drainage or simply underground, SPHP never really knew. Little to see here except trees, but the trail was in excellent condition, no obstacles at all, and super easy to follow.

As the Carolina Dog continued higher, the valley began to narrow. Half way up, just beyond the narrowest point, South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 leveled out, becoming sandy as Lupe entered a clearing where the valley widened out again.

In the narrows. A small clearing is just around the next bend (L). Photo looks N.

The flat clearing was a welcome respite, but the march higher resumed as soon as Lupe got beyond it. Trail No. 36 began winding up steeper slopes than before, switchbacks helping to limit the rate of climb.

Big rock formations eventually appeared off to the E. After getting fairly close to them, the trail turned NW. Looper had already gained a bunch of elevation. Encouragingly, it was beginning to look like she was about to climb out of the upper end of the valley.

Past the clearing, winding higher. Photo looks SSE.

Near the rock formations. Photo looks E.

Close to climbing out the N end of the valley? Photo looks N.

After reaching the NW side of the valley, the trail switchbacked NE. Soon it became clear that the American Dingo really was about to escape the valley! The trail turned N. From the top of a little rise, a magnificent sight – South Sister (10,358 ft.)!

Directly ahead, the trail sloped gently down to a junction.

Out of the valley, with **South Sister** in sight! Photo looks N.

At the junction, Phase 1 of Lupe’s journey to South Sister, the 1.5 mile long trek up the long valley, was complete. The route she needed to take from here was completely obvious, just keep heading N for South Sister. Trail No. 17.1 offered other possible choices, either NE down to Moraine Lake, or W for parts unknown.

At the junction with Trail No. 17.1. Lupe had come up from the L. Photo looks WSW.

Continuing N from the junction, Phase 2 of Lupe’s South Sister journey began. This was by far the easiest section of South Sister Climber Trail No. 36. A broad path wound through low hills of gritty volcanic soil that supported only scant vegetation other than scattered stands of pines. Elevation gain was minimal. In many places, the trail was nearly flat. The Carolina Dog even came to short downhill sections, although they didn’t amount to much.

As the pines became scarcer, the increasingly open views became more deserty. In her fur coat, Lupe got hot, and often wanted to enjoy a shady rest whenever the trail got close to the trees. It was all extremely scenic, with South Sister nearly always looming ahead. The jagged peaks of Broken Top (9,175 ft.) were also often in view off to the NE.

Continuing N from the junction. Photo looks N.

An early view of **Broken Top**. Photo looks NE.

A bit closer. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

Progress was fast and easy, with only the short water and rest breaks to cool off in the shade slowing things down. As Loopster rapidly closed the remaining gap to the base of the mountain, South Sister looked more and more daunting based on sheer size alone. At one point, the Carolina Dog passed another trail on the R that came up from Moraine Lake.

Continuing toward **South Sister.** Photo looks N.

By the trail that came up from Moraine Lake. Photo looks E.

Passing along the edge of a few small hills. **South Sister** (L of Center). Photo looks N.

Looking back. **Devils Hill (7,080 ft.)** (L). Photo looks S.

For quite a long way, South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 stayed near the E edge of the huge flat ridge Lupe was traveling N. Sometimes she enjoyed views down into the canyon to the E. From a few spots, it was possible to catch a glimpse of Moraine Lake. Hard to think about that, though, when South Sister was getting closer with every step. The mountain drew the eye like a magnet.

**South Sister** (L of Center). **Hodge Crest (10,039 ft.)** (R). Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

**Summit region**. Photo looks N with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Another glance over at **Broken Top** (Center). Photo looks ENE.

The trail eventually began drifting NW, away from the canyon which it was now essentially past. South Sister’s summit region vanished from view, hidden by the mountain’s lower slopes. Phase 3 was beginning, start of the ascent.

How much higher do we have to go, SPHP?

About 3,500 feet, Loop, over 2 miles.

Sounded like a lot. Only 1,400 feet gained so far? Felt like it had been a long march already.

The trail began climbing again. Slowly at first, but more steeply as Lupe went on.

For a while, trees were fairly numerous. No. 36 even wound through short stretches of forest. Higher up, trees were scarcer. The trail ran N some distance W of a rocky ridge capped by a line of cliffs. This ridge was considerably higher, but Lupe was gaining on it.

Below the cliffs (R) of the ridge to the E. Photo looks NE.

The ground was mostly gritty, loose soil. No doubt volcanic. Good-sized rocks were part of the mix, but the terrain wasn’t super rocky.

So far, Lupe had seen only a few people, a large group way back at the very start, and a couple near the upper end of the long valley that had camped at Moraine Lake last night. However, as the trail steepened, Lupe began meeting more and more people on their way down.

Those who had made it to the summit had been disappointed. The top of the mountain had been shrouded in fog. No views at all.

The sky over South Sister was a beautiful, deep blue now, though. Seemed like a perfect day!

Hah! Looks like the late Dingo is going to get the worm this time, Loop!

Worm! I’ll have you know, I’m not climbing this beast for worms, SPHP! This monster ought to merit several chocolate coconut bars.

Oh, my gosh, Looper! I forgot to bring any! I do have Taste of the Wild for you. Sorry, but that’s gonna be it.

No chocolate coconut bars? Didn’t seem right at all. Taste of the Wild was nutritious, but like cake minus icing. Chocolate coconut icing to be precise! Nothing to be done about it. A miffed Dingo trudged onward, trying to make the best of it. SPHP plodded along behind.

The mountain was getting steep. Looking back during SPHP’s breathers, Loop could see Devils Hill (7,080 ft.) and Mount Bachelor (9,065 ft.). She was also seeing evidence that this day might not be so perfect after all. Miles away, a wall of smoke or fog was now visible to the S and W.

**Mount Bachelor** (L), **Devils Hill** (R of Center) beyond **Moraine Lake**. The flat ridge that South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 runs along is at far R. Photo looks SSE.

A light breeze was blowing out of the SW. Not good. SPHP kept an eye on the situation. Trouble seemed to be approaching, but quite slowly.

The approaching bank of fog and/or smoke. Photo looks W.

C’mon, Looper! Let’s keep moving as much as possible. Afraid your Luck of the Dingo might run out on us.

Fine, SPHP, but I don’t think I’m the holdup here!

A line of trees stood along the upper rim of a really steep slope. Despite the urgency of some need for speed, SPHP only managed to plod along at a snail’s pace. Near the top, loose soil gave way to a series of small, solid rock ledges. Once up to where the trees were, a gray hill was visible off to the NE.

On the steep slope leading up to the line of trees. Photo looks N.

That hill was Nipple Point (8,600 ft.). The trail looped clear around the E side of it before turning NW.

**Nipple Point** (Center). Photo looks NE.

Circling around Nipple Point (not shown). Photo looks E.

On the back side, NE of **Nipple Point** (Center) now. Photo looks SW.

Beyond Nipple Point, the trail ascended a long slope of very loose gray scree. At the top of this climb, Lupe reached a saddle SW of a big hill. An awesome sight was ahead!

Still 1,500 feet higher, South Sister’s rust red dome towered beautifully above what remains of the Lewis Glacier, a turquoise meltwater pond nestled below it.

On the gray scree slope above Nipple Point. Photo looks NW.

**South Sister** and the **Lewis Glacier**. **Hodge Crest (10,039 ft.)** far R. Photo looks N.

To the NW, quite a few hikers were visible coming down along the edge of a colorful ridge of pumice overlooking the glacier and turquoise tarn. Several more were relaxing right here at the saddle. Still more than 150 feet higher, Lewis Glacier Peak (9,017 ft.) was immediately NE.

South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 proceeds up the ridge beyond Lupe. Photo looks NW.

**Hodge Crest** (L) and **Lewis Glacier Peak** (R). Photo looks NNE.

A rest break was taken at the saddle. However, the American Dingo couldn’t linger long. The wall of smoke or fog approaching from the SW suddenly seemed much closer now. Clouds were increasingly starting to hang around the top of South Sister before sailing off to the NE. As soon as SPHP could summon the energy to do so, Lupe resumed her ascent.

Early on, Lupe passed a line of boulders strung out along the crest of the ridge. Beyond the boulders, she eventually worked high enough to gaze down on the Lewis Glacier slowly, inexorably, melting away in the sun.

The scenery was fantastic! Even the ground was fascinating. Loopster climbed through distinct zones of red, yellow, grey, and black volcanic soils. Meanwhile, although skies were often still blue over South Sister, the wall of smoke and fog was steadily closing in. A procession of hikers was coming down the mountain. SPHP wondered where they had all started from this morning?

Seeking shade. **Broken Top** (R) and **Lewis Glacier Peak** (far R). Photo looks ESE.

Near the **Lewis Glacier**. **South Sister** (L), **Hodge Crest** (R). Photo looks N.

Toe of the Lewis Glacier. Photo looks NE.

**Broken Top** (far L), **Lewis Glacier Peak** (L), **the saddle** (beyond Lupe), **Mount Bachelor** (far R). Photo looks SE.

Colorful soils along the edge. Photo looks N.

The weary trudge higher went on and on. Can’t stop! Not for more than a moment or two to gasp for air. The top of the mountain seemed to get closer only at a snail’s pace. People streamed by. Everyone was heading down. They were all in great spirits! These climbers had been at the top when the sky was blue and the views were incredible.

Whether or not Lupe could get up there in time to enjoy those views still hung in the balance.

Onward! Puppy, ho!

Making progress as time runs out. **Broken Top** (far L), **Lewis Glacier Peak** (R), **Mount Bachelor** (far R). Photo looks SE.

The approaching wall of smoke and fog. Photo looks SW.

Still hope! Blue skies over **South Sister**. Photo looks N.

Angling NW, South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 left the edge overlooking the Lewis Glacier. Steep, although perhaps not quite as steep as before. Loopster met the last few stragglers coming down the mountain. At last, it finally started to look like the top couldn’t be much farther!

Heh. Farther than it looked. Lupe kept climbing. She seemed to be only a few hundred feet from the top, yet more mountain kept appearing.

Doomed! The wall of fog arrived, and the world disappeared.

2:55 PM, 52ºF, South Sister (10,358 ft.), S rim – Borne on a breeze now 10 mph out of the SW, fog streamed by as the rate of climb diminished. Near the end, South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 turned NNE. Fortunately, the fog was intermittent. As Lupe crossed a plain of red cinders, a small ridge of wild-looking rock was ahead. Reaching it half an hour after the fog first hit, the American Dingo passed a small cairn.

Two people remained here, standing in a gray gloom along the edge of an enchanting, vaguely threatening, prehistoric scene revealed partially and only momentarily during sudden breaks in the cloud. They waved, but said nothing. SPHP waved back, then went with Lupe off to the W to take shelter from the rising wind among rocks of the volcanic ridge.

The ridge was higher toward the NW. Between here and there, a cool fog streamed almost constantly out of the SW through a sizable gap. Despite the fog, Lupe could usually see at least part of an enormous crater before her. A glacier within sloped down from the W, meltwater trickling from its toe gathering in small pools below.

Every now and then, fog quit coming through the gap. Then suddenly, the Carolina Dog would be in brilliant sunshine as the crater began to clear. Patches of blue sky, and much more of the crater were revealed. Occasionally, the true summit could be seen almost directly opposite Lupe’s position way over along the NE rim.

Along the **S rim of the South Sister crater**. Photo looks NE.

Upper reaches of the glacier along the **W rim**. Photo looks NNW.

Most of the time, though, fog hid everything that wasn’t close. For nearly an hour, Lupe spent most of her time curled up on SPHP’s lap, watching fog stream through the gap. South Sister’s crater felt primeval, wild and cold, like a hidden frozen piece of the world’s ancient dangerous past.

A few latecomers arrived shortly after Lupe did. None stayed long, or ventured over toward the true summit, although one couple vanished into the fog off to the E for a little while. Most stayed only a few minutes before turning around and heading back down. One woman reacted with shock and dismay. The entire crater used to be filled with snow and ice! Even though Lupe and SPHP were amazed, what remained was evidently pitiful in comparison to what had once been.

Actually, I’m shocked, too, Loop. Never expected this!

Why not, SPHP? South Sister is a volcano! You said so yourself. What were you expecting?

Yeah, I know. Just never really thought about it, Loopster. Since South Sister looks like a big red dome from a distance, I assumed the whole thing would be like that. A gentle stroll to a vast, featureless, rounded summit.

Glad it isn’t, SPHP! A real volcanic crater with a glacier! Way better!

If anything, the weather seemed to be deteriorating. The wind blew harder, more and more fog streamed by. Fewer, shorter, brief episodes of sunshine. SPHP began to worry. South Sister was losing the battle with the fog. Finally, though, a break came. Suddenly, almost the entire crater cleared. Another rare moment when South Sister’s true summit was in view again!

C’mon, Loop! Now’s our chance!

Partially revived by the long rest, Loopster leapt to her paws and began following a well-worn use trail counter-clockwise around the crater.

Heading for **South Sister’s true summit** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

Along the E rim, conditions varied wildly. A gentle breeze beneath blue skies one moment, 30 seconds later, a cold, gray gale. Pausing to brace against the wind, Lupe surged forward whenever it let up.

Along the **lower E end of the crater**. Photo looks NW.

Approaching the **NE rim** beneath temporarily blue skies. Photo looks NNW.

**South Sister crater glacier**. Photo looks W.

Near the true summit, the ridgeline was dominated by wild, jagged rock. Well below the top, Lupe picked her way through a geological jumble utilizing a maze of use trails. Once through the worst of it, she climbed to a bench only slightly below the highest rocks, discovering a survey benchmark with an arrow.

Near the true summit. **Survey benchmark** (lower L). Photo looks WNW.

The true summit was a short, narrow ridge with steep drops along both sides. A knob at the S end was the absolute high point. Lupe couldn’t quite get to it, and wouldn’t have had room enough to sit up there, even if she could have reached it, but she did scramble up onto rocks only marginally lower 10 feet away.

4:07 PM, 38ºF, South Sister, true summit – Fog streamed past. Now 20 mph, the wind was cold. Alone in a gray world, way up at the top of mighty South Sister, Lupe stood like a champion, waiting for the next break that SPHP hoped and promised would soon arrive.

It did. Not totally, or for long, but a partially blue sky did reappear. SPHP quickly took the shot. Close enough for Dingo work!

Moment of glory on **South Sister.** Photo looks SE.

Descending, Lupe lingered near the true summit only 5 or 10 minutes longer. Conditions weren’t all that pleasant, and fog soon returned.

Final moments in the **true summit region**.

Lupe was halfway back to the S rim when the situation suddenly took a turn for the worse. Dense fog swept in on a frigid 30 mph gale. Even the trail vanished from view. Whiteout! Must stop.

This is terrible, SPHP! We’ve over-stayed our welcome! Keep going!

Can’t! Can’t see a thing! Stay close, Loop, or you’ll get lost!

Was a storm moving in? The ferocity of the attack was numbing. Lupe huddled at SPHP’s feet. Hands were freezing. Seemed interminable, but couldn’t have been more than a few minutes. The worst was over. Still in the fog, but suddenly the trail reappeared.

Onward! Puppy, ho!

Along the **S rim** again. Photo looks W.

4:33 PM, South Sister, S rim – An hour and 38 minutes after arriving, Lupe stood again by the little cairn marking where South Sister Climber Trail No. 36 reached the S rim. Something had changed when that ferocious blast went through. The air was colder. No more glimpses of blue sky, or even of South Sister’s crater. Lupe would never see it again.

A long way back. Definitely time to go. A last glance N into the fog where the crater should have been, and Loop started down.

By the small cairn (R) where Climber Trail No. 36 reaches the S rim. Photo looks SSW.

Progress was great! So much easier going down! Lupe trotted along a path of loose, red cinder in an otherwise gray world. Losing hundreds of feet of elevation, she was already getting close to where the trail reached the edge overlooking the Lewis Glacier before she escaped the cloud and could see again.

The **Lewis Glacier** (R), appears as Lupe descends from the cloud. Photo looks SSE.

Exhausted, yet the evening return was amazing and fun! South Sister’s summit never did escape the cloud again, but beauty was all around. Incredibly, Lupe had it all to herself, seeing no one at all. The evening gloam was well advanced by the time Carolina Dog reached the deserted trailhead near Devils Lake. (8:09 PM, 57ºF)

Alright, SPHP! We did it! Can please I have a chocolate coconut bar now?

**South Sister,** Cascade Range, Oregon 8-26-21

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GPS Track by Ben Sidhom (10-13-18)