Day 6 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
Morning, Driftwood Canyon Provincial Park – The hopeful promise of clearing skies yesterday evening had been dashed by raindrops during the wee hours. Lupe woke to a soft gray fog in the treetops.
Picnic ground at Driftwood Canyon Provincial Park near Smithers.
Not looking good for mountain climbing today, is it, SPHP?
Certainly isn’t, Loop, but maybe we should give it a chance? We could kill some time taking the bridge over Driftwood Creek. Supposed to be some famous fossil beds at the end of a short trail over there. Want to do that?
The Carolina Dog wasn’t so sure that she did, hesitating at the metal grate bridge before following SPHP across.
The bridge to the fossil beds.
Several plaques were along the trail, which led through a dark forest. At the end, a small clearing provided a view of a steep hillside. Turned out the fossil beds were way up near the top. Signs warned against climbing the hillside to see them, although the scarred slope made it clear that lots of people did.
No fossils to look at, not even any squirrels in this forest, SPHP. I’m not overly impressed.
Nice enough stroll, but kind of a bust, isn’t it, Loop? Back to the RAV4?
Fine with me, SPHP, but then what?
Let’s head into Smithers and find out what the forecast is, Looper. If it’s going to stay all cloudy and drippy like this, we might as well keep driving. Still a long way to Alaska, you know.
Can’t you check the forecast on your fancy new iPhone, SPHP? I thought that was supposed to be one of the grand new capabilities it offered us?
I could, but we don’t seem to have service in Canada, Loop.
Magnificent! No service in Canada, where we always like to go! How did you manage that, SPHP?
Chalk it up to my usual brilliance, Loopster. C’mon, let’s get out of here!
The Smithers Visitor Center had free wi-fi. Took SPHP a while to figure out how to even use wi-fi, but a weather forecast eventually did pop up on the iPhone’s screen.
Better than I thought, Loopster! Cloudy, high of 55ºF, with a 30% chance of showers today, then sunny with highs in the 70’s ºF for the next 4 days.
Sounds beautiful starting tomorrow then. We should stick around, SPHP! What can we do in Smithers today?
Play tourist, I suppose. Or you know what, Loop? We could go on our first ever backpacking trip in Canada! Take the McCabe Trail, and set up base camp near Mount Hyland(7,477 ft.) in the Babine Mountains. Should have a sunny day for climbing Mount Hyland tomorrow!
That sounds awesome, SPHP! Let’s do it!
1:14 PM, 52ºF – Mount Hyland meant a drive back to Driftwood Road again, this time all the way to the trailhead at the very end. Quite a few vehicles were present, but no one was around. SPHP had the pack ready, and the American Dingo was about to set off on the Silver King Trail, a wide, smooth path.
About to set out on the Silver King Trail. Photo looks N.
Hmm. Sign says 1.3 km to where the McCabe Trail branches off, Looper.
This looks super easy, SPHP! Like a stroll through the park.
Indeed it was! Climbing gradually, the Silver King Trail was apparently an abandoned road, at least here at the start. Driftwood Creek could be heard somewhere off to the W (L) in the forest, and soon flowed close to the trail, although still seldom seen due to trees and tall vegetation. The big, clear-running stream was very scenic when Lupe could manage to get a glimpse of it, flowing swiftly among mossy boulders.
Driftwood Creek.
After a short stretch flowing near the trail, Driftwood Creek veered back off into the forest. The stream did not appear again, although it could still be heard not too far away. Before long, Lupe reached the junction where the McCabe Trail took off to the NE (R).
Silver King Trail (L), McCabe trail (R).Signage at the start of the McCabe Trail.
What does this sign say, SPHP?
8.5 km to Summit Pass, Looper. Not bad at all! A mere 9.8 km total from the trailhead.
The McCabe Trail began as a smaller road, but quickly climbing 60 feet, it then leveled out as an excellent single track traversing the steep lower N slopes of Harvey Mountain(6,083 ft.). Progress was rapid as the trail ran E through an impressively dense forest.
For quite a long way, there were no views other than the dim forest. The air was cool, moist, and heavy. Other than the sound of Driftwood Creek somewhere far below, silence reigned. Sudden movement among the thick moss and abundant undergrowth next to the trail revealed a toad.
At a small opening along the McCabe Trail. Photo looks E.The unexpected toad.
On and on! The McCabe Trail climbed gradually, still interspersed with flat sections. Although Lupe passed damp spots, no creeks ran down the steep N slopes of Mount Harvey. The dank, quiet atmosphere produced a sensation of extreme remoteness.
Starting to climb. Photo looks E.
This is awesome, SPHP! Can’t wait to see where this leads to!
The trail eventually crossed a rock slide that created an opening where first views of the heavily forested Driftwood Creek Canyon appeared. All the mountaintops were in the clouds, but as Loopster continued on, she came to more openings. The cloud cover was slowly lifting, a mountain strip-tease revealing what was out there.
Looking out over the Driftwood Creek Canyon.A flashy fungus.
The McCabe Trail was now climbing steadily. Lupe came to some fairly long stretches where a lack of trees granted what would have been great views of the canyon on a sunnier day, but only SPHP could see them. An explosion of thick plant growth 4 or 5 feet high in these areas had the Carolina Dog traveling through an endless green tunnel.
Lupe was glad when small streams finally did begin to appear, getting a drink from each one. Two were large enough to have eroded out several feet of the trail, but were no real hindrance. A bigger stream had a nice wooden pawbridge.
On the pawbridge over the largest stream.
After crossing the pawbridge, the McCabe Trail angled away from the steep slopes overlooking the Driftwood Creek Canyon. A long, two-plank boardwalk appeared leading through a wet region. Near the upper end of the boardwalk, Lupe passed a sign for the undeveloped Blix Route, which went S to the Lyon Creek Trail.
On the narrow boardwalk through the wet region.Sign for the Blix Route.
Upon reaching drier terrain, the boardwalk ended. The McCabe Trail continued climbing at a moderate pace through the forest. Now beyond the N slopes of Harvey Mountain, Lupe started getting glimpses of the N end of Pyramid Mountain(6,273 ft.) ahead.
Approaching the N end of Pyramid Mountain. Photo looks SE.
Soon the forest was thinning rapidly. Lupe began coming to lush glades full of brilliant wildflowers.
Entering the wildflower zone near the N end of Pyramid Mountain. Photo looks SE.Among orange and crimson Indian Paintbrush.The trail flattened out as it turned N away from Pyramid Mountain (L). Photo looks SW.The wilderness garden.Surrounded by beauty. Photo looks N.
The wildflower zone didn’t last long. Turning E, after climbing only a bit higher, the McCabe Trail flattened out once again in a region of scattered conifers and low tundra vegetation. For the first time, a pass was visible off to the E beneath thick clouds.
That’s got to be it, SPHP! Summit Pass! That’s where we’re going, right?
Summit Pass (R of Center) from the flat region N of Pyramid Mountain. Photo looks E.
Yes, I do believe you’re right, Loopster. Really isn’t that much higher than where we are already. What, 2 miles away? No more than that.
After crossing the flat region, the trail turned NE, descending rapidly back into the forest. Switchbacking SE, the trail had leveled out after turning E again, when signs indicated the presence of a campground down a spur to the N.
We’ve got time, let’s check out the campground, Loop!
Back in the forest at the junction with the N spur to the campground. Photo looks ESE.
The campground was a simple affair. The spur trail led down to a large, relatively flat clearing. Crossing it, Lupe discovered two stone fire rings with a log to sit on near each one. Off to the E, a stream wound mostly unseen through a bushy wetland. No one was here at the moment.
At the campground clearing. Photo looks NW.Near one of the 2 stone fire rings. Photo looks SE.
Nice enough place to camp, SPHP. Certainly a wilderness experience, but it feels like we’re down in a hole. Let’s keep going!
Intend to, Loop. Just wanted to see what was here while we were nearby.
Returning to the McCabe Trail, the American Dingo continued E. The trail skirted the S side of the bushy wetlands, and led to a bridge over the stream flowing into them. Back to the NNW, the sky was brightening. Mount Elmsted(7,244 ft.), and even part of The Galleon(7,844 ft.), was now in view.
Mount Elmsted (Center) from the SE end of the wetlands. Photo looks NW.Mount Elmsted (L), snowy upper regions of The Galleon (Center). The campground is beyond the first stand of trees on the L. Photo looks NNW.
Passing through another stretch of forest, the McCabe trail climbed again. The trees were soon thinning rapidly. As Lupe broke out of the forest, a small lake was visible to the S, and blue skies were overhead. The day had been on the cool side, but now began to heat up. This next section of trail was the steepest of the entire journey.
Heading higher! About as steep as it got. Photo looks E.
Eh! Still only a moderately paced climb, although SPHP did pause to gasp for breath fairly often, because the pack was starting to feel heavy by now. The trail leveled out again for a little way, before resuming its ascent. Suddenly Lupe was passing the last stunted trees, the McCabe Trail still heading E toward open tundra.
To the NE, two great arms of a mountain cradled a vast bowl between them. A waterfall roared in the distance, cascading from the lower end.
The McCabe Trail nearly levels out for a little way again. Photo looks SE.Mount Hyland. Photo looks NE.
Loop, look! That’s Mount Hyland(7,477 ft.)! Tomorrow we’ll explore that huge valley between those massive ridges!
Lupe stuck with the McCabe Trail a little farther, but the Carolina Dog was so excited she soon took off streaking across the tundra. This was exactly the sort of alpine territory she loved most! Marmots whistled warnings in all directions as Looper sniffed and ran over hill and dale.
5:40 PM, base camp S of Mount Hyland – SPHP had the tiny house set up on a ridge a few hundred feet NW of the McCabe Trail. Lupe rested on the tundra nearby, watching a huge gray cloud envelop Mount Hyland.
Relaxing by the tiny house. Photo looks N.
What a spectacular setting, aye, Looper? Hope these clouds are actually gone by tomorrow morning, though!
This is fabulous, SPHP! Another Dingo Paradise! Loving it!
Cooling off again as these clouds roll in, but there’s still some blue sky to the E. We’ve got a few hours of daylight left, Loop. Want to visit Summit Pass, just to say we’ve been there?
How much farther is it, SPHP?
Oh, 0.5 km or so, maybe a little more. Won’t take long. Not much of a climb from here, and lots of wonderful tundra along the way!
Energized by the mountain air and vast open terrain, Lupe had a blast! SPHP stuck to the McCabe Trail, while the American Dingo roamed at will. The trail passed several small tarns. At intervals, wooden posts marked the route, although there was never any doubt.
About to set out for Summit Pass (Center). Photo looks ESE.Glancing back at Lupe’s tiny house (Center). Photo looks WNW.Passing several tarns. Photo looks W.Closing in on Summit Pass (Center). Photo looks ESE.
5:55 PM – At Summit Pass, a post marked a 3-way junction. This was the end and high point of the McCabe Trail. From here, the Little Joe Creek Trail continued E, and the Lyon Creek Trail headed SW.
Congratulations, Loopster! You’ve explored the entire McCabe Trail today!
It’s a great trail, SPHP! Love where it got us to. Wasn’t all that hard to get here, either.
Mount Hyland will be more of a challenge, I’m sure! Well, I suppose we ought to head back to the tiny house, sweet puppy. Have a bite to eat, then hit the hay. Big day tomorrow! Glad we got to enjoy this nice evening romp to Summit Pass, though.
Lupe was glad, too.
Summit Pass, end of the McCabe Trail, Babine Mountains, British Columbia, 8-4-22
Days 4-6 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
8-8-19, dawn, Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 W of Jasper – Uh-oh. Warning! Dingo triggering event ahead! Not another soul on the road yet, but SPHP had to brake. One of those portable temporary stoplights for road construction had just turned red. Lupe stared in disbelief, her eyes growing big as saucers as she began to realize what she was coming to. Her hackles rose. SPHP completely shut the windows on her side of the G6. Here it comes!
The G6 exploded with noise, as Looper sprang into action. A full-fledged 5 alarm, frothing at the mouth, barking frenzy was underway! The American Dingo bounded up and down, back and forth, whacking her head against the windshield, nose smearing against the side window, decibel level as high and shrill as she could possibly maintain it.
Egads! Turn green for pity sake! The stoplight remained a stubborn cherry red. 15 feet outside Lupe’s window a magnificent bull elk looked up momentarily. What was all that racket? Whatever it was all about, the elk decided it didn’t concern him, and went back to casually munching whatever it was he was munching.
A mile later, sides still heaving, Lupe gasped.
What is the matter with you, SPHP? It takes a thermonuclear device to get your attention! An enormous giant deer was frozen in place right there outside the G6! Easy pickings! We could have been feasting on fresh, warm, bloody venison right now! Don’t tell me you didn’t see it!
Oh, I saw it alright, beyond a brown and white blur! How could I not see it with you about to bust a gut for 10 solid minutes? I thought that light would never turn green. We are in a Canadian National Park, Loop. I’m reasonably certain park officials would frown upon us devouring a freshly killed elk right next to the highway. Besides, what makes you think it would be that easy? That giant deer must have outweighed you 50 to 1!
You would have helped me, wouldn’t you, SPHP?
Of course. I could use a few years free room and board courtesy of the Canadian government. Shudder to think what might become of you, though, Loop.
Tangle Ridge had been a grand success yesterday, but over 3,800 feet of elevation gain had taken a toll. The giant deer frenzy must have sucked up whatever energy the Carolina Dog had recovered overnight. Yukon bound, the day turned into a relaxing road trip. Serenity returned as Loopster took to snoozing on her pink blankie.
That didn’t mean there couldn’t be a few stops at favorite places. Still needed to stretch now and then to keep the blood circulating.
Overlander Falls, Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia.Rearguard Falls, Rearguard Falls Provincial Park, British ColumbiaRearguard Falls on the Fraser River.Exploring near the Goat River rest stop.
The whole day got spent cruising NW on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16, all of it in British Columbia after crossing the border from Alberta early on. Shortly before reaching Fort Fraser, a tall plume of black smoke came into view on Lupe’s side of the highway. Traffic was backed up ahead.
Turned out to be a badly burnt out vehicle. Spontaneous combustion? Didn’t seem to be the result of a collision. By the time Lupe went by, the fire department had already put out the fire.
Sure hope the ole’ G6 doesn’t get any ideas, SPHP!
Yeah, that’ll be us someday, Looper. We’re bailing, though, at the first sign of trouble. If you ever sniff smoke, let me know right away.
Like that would help! I’m not expecting any rapid response miracles out of you, SPHP, after that giant deer episode.
Well, warn me anyway. I’m likely to be more excitable, if the G6 threatens to burst into flames.
At the Dry Williams Lake rest stop. A year ago forest fires had rained ash on the G6 here.
By late afternoon, Lupe was at Steelhead Park in Houston. Small, but exquisitely maintained. Sniffing the fragrant blossoms of all the colorful flowers was pure delight! Looper paid homage to the Dingo god, too.
Steelhead Park in Houston is always such a lovely break!By the Steelhead fountain.So why doesn’t our yard look like this, SPHP? … Something to do with a brown thumb, Loop!The air sniffs so good here!Paying respects to the Dingo god.
8-8-19, 5:45 PM, Smithers, British Columbia – The long drive was over for now. Lupe reached Smithers near the Babine Mountains with sufficient daylight remaining to explore the town. She visited the Bulkley River, then took a stroll down Main Street looking for the Sausage Factory. A year ago she had met the former owners, Fred and Teresa Reitsma, at Five Finger Rapids on the Yukon River. They’d been on their way to Dawson City.
Fred and Teresa had invited Lupe to drop by the Sausage Factory, if she ever got to Smithers again. Now she was here, but too late! The Sausage Factory was closed for the day. Too bad. It looked like a ritzy place! The product line was of considerable interest to a famished American Dingo, too. Maybe Loop could return tomorrow?
By the Bulkley River in Smithers, British Columbia.Outside the Sausage Factory, 1107 Main Street in Smithers, British Columbia.We’ll go in tomorrow, right, SPHP? … With any luck, Looper!
Hudson Bay Mountain(8,494 ft.) was on the agenda tomorrow, a super prominent (5,000 ft.+) peak W of Smithers. Lupe wouldn’t be able to get to the true summit, which was a technical climb. The S summit wasn’t much lower, though, and was supposed to be accessible by a route that continued higher from Crater Lake.
By sunset, Lupe was at the Crater Lake trailhead, high on Hudson Bay Mountain’s S flank. A gorgeous evening! Things were looking good!
Hudson Bay Mountain (L) from Astlais Mountain exactly one year earlier on 8-8-18.
8-9-19, 6:58 AM, Hudson Bay Mountain, near the Crater Lake trailhead – The Carolina Dog sniffed aimlessly around the G6. Fog and mist. Hardly an inspiring start to the day. It was what it was. Reality rules. No point in this. Oh, well.
Down in Smithers a short while later, it was just an overcast day. Only the upper half of Hudson Bay Mountain was shrouded in clouds, but that was the half Lupe had hoped to visit. Some sort of front must have moved in overnight, nothing too dramatic, but enough to be a spoiler. Kind of a shame. Hudson Bay Mountain wasn’t the only candidate on Lupe’s list in this region.
However, didn’t seem to be much sense in waiting around. The Yukon was still a long way. Somewhere skies were blue! Without even waiting for the Sausage Factory to open, Lupe was on her way again.
20 minutes W of Smithers, SPHP drove into rain. 20 minutes W of Seeley Lake, the long drive on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 finally came to an end. Lupe was on her way N on Cassiar Hwy No. 37! The Alaska Highway in Yukon Territory was now only 724 km (450 miles) away. The rain stopped 40 km later. At 60 km, a patch of blue sky was seen ahead.
The weather improved as the G6 sped N. The scenery was gorgeous! Big lakes, mountains, and rivers, but Lupe seldom got a break from being cooped up. This was really wild territory, with hardly a trail anywhere as far as SPHP knew. Daunting. The only significant stop Lupe made was at the Stikine River, a favorite spot known to harbor squirrels in the forest near the riverbank.
Lunch break at the Bell 1 rest stop 117 km N of Meziadin Junction.At the Stikine River, looking upstream toward the Cassiar Hwy bridge.Looking downstream. The Grand Canyon of the Stikine starts not far from here.
8-9-19, 7:15 PM, Beaver Dam rest stop along Cassiar Hwy No. 37 – Only 75 km left to the Alaska Highway, but enough was enough. After a bite to eat, having spent practically the entire day on the road, Lupe finally got to do some exploring. N of the rest stop a dirt road curved slowly NW into the forest. Maybe it would lead to the beaver dam? None was in sight at the rest stop.
A gentle 0.33 mile uphill stroll led to a bit of a drop into a little valley. No beaver dam. So far, SPHP had found only mosquitoes. Lupe was doing better. A couple of squirrels had come to her attention, and now to her enormous satisfaction, she came across a succession of mud puddles covering the entire road. The American Dingo plopped herself right down in each one, clearly enjoying lapping up murky mineral water, and that oh, so wild and natural feeling one gets from being absolutely filthy.
Upon getting back to the Cassiar Hwy, SPHP picked as much trash out of the ditches as could be carried back to the rest stop for proper disposal.
We’re doing something wrong, Loop, when a load of trash, and a dingy Dingo are the highlight of the day!
8-10-19, 35ºF at the forest fire pond along Cassiar Hwy No. 37 – Chilly out, but at least the sky was blue! By the forest fire pond Lupe squinted into the brilliant glare of the morning sun. Going to be a great day! Another one on the road again, though. Lupe had already made a few tracks. This pond was what, a mere 30 km from the Yukon?
In the early morning sunlight by the forest fire pond.
8:08 AM, 39ºF, Yukon border, Cassiar Hwy No. 37 – Two days of pent-up energy could be contained no longer. The were-puppy attacked as soon as SPHP stepped out of the G6. Leaping, growling, nipping, tugging, tearing – all the usual were-puppy tactics.
You know, were-puppy, you are at least part of the reason I’m always in tatters!
Oh, you love it, SPHP! It’s all in good fun!
For some of us. I notice you don’t ever come away turning yellow and green and purple and blue.
Sorry ’bout that. Now and then I get carried away.
Apology accepted, provided you let go of my pants without ripping them any further. How about a romp in the woods along the Yukon border? Might be a squirrel out there somewhere!
A romp and a squirrel sounded good. After visiting the Yukon border sign, Lupe dashed off into the forest. A squirrel did materialize, making SPHP look like a genius.
Made it! At the Yukon Territory border!
Burning off some steam early on was a good thing. 2 km N of the Yukon border Cassiar Hwy No. 37 came to an end. SPHP turned W (L) onto the Alaska Highway. Hours slipped by, the only significant stop being a now traditional one at Teslin Lake.
Teslin Lake – a traditional Lupe stop along the Alaska Highway.Regional map posted at Teslin Lake.By Teslin Lake. Dawson Peaks (R). Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.
By early afternoon, Lupe had left the Alaska Highway at Jake’s Corner, and was on her way back into British Columbia heading S on Hwy 7 to Atlin. A lunch stop was made on a bluff overlooking the N end of Atlin Lake and Mount Minto(6,913 ft.).
Atlin Lake and Mount Minto (R) from a bluff Lupe discovered in 2018. Photo looks S.
Atlin Lake is long and narrow. It was still quite a way to the town of Atlin on its E shore. Shortly before Loopster got there, SPHP spotted a couple of float planes on Como Lake, a small lake W of Hwy 7. Might be fun to go take a look. The American Dingo was all for it!
Checking out the float planes at Como Lake.Oh, this does look like fun! We could go soaring over the mountains!
None of the stops today had been terribly long. By mid-afternoon, Lupe was back in Atlin again! A year ago, she’d had a terrific time climbing Monarch Mountain SE of town.
At the Atlin marina, with Monarch Mountain in the background. Photo looks SE.
Being back in Atlin was exciting! Lupe went to the waterfront to see the gorgeous lake and the Tarahne, a century old excursion boat which had once upon a time brought tourists to Atlin.
Oh, it’s wonderful to be back at fabulous Atlin Lake again! And with big plans, too!By the Tarahne, which decades ago had brought tourists to Atlin.
Off to the SW was the reason Lupe was here. Across Atlin Lake near the far W shore was a large island. Teresa Island was dominated by a single massive mountain which occupied virtually the entire island. In 2018, Lupe had seen Birch Mountain(6,765 ft.), not only from Atlin, but also from Monarch Mountain(4,728 ft.).
Birch Mountain, the whole reason Lupe had returned to Atlin. Photo looks SW.
For the past year, SPHP couldn’t help thinking that Birch Mountain had looked climbable from the N. Why, Lupe could do that! From the top there ought to be a fantastic view of the Llewellyn Glacier, which the Carolina Dog had glimpsed on the far horizon from Monarch Mountain. Birch Mountain had a peculiarity, too, which added to its overall appeal. With 1,393 meters (4,570 ft.) of prominence, Birch Mountain was the 2nd most prominent lake island in the entire world!
Until Lupe had run across Birch Mountain, it had never occurred to SPHP that she might be capable of summiting the 2nd best of any class of mountain in the whole world, yet here was an opportunity to do so in this remote NW corner of British Columbia, an area Lupe had been close to on her summer Dingo Vacations these past 3 years. The whole notion was so enticing!
Beyond the usual weather considerations, 2 significant problems needed to be addressed. First, how to get over to Teresa Island? Second, how to get above tree line? The lower portions of the island looked densely forested. Was there a trail? If not, was the forest open enough to simply amble up through it without too much difficulty? If Looper could get above tree line, the upper regions of the mountain appeared to be quite manageable. SPHP was confident she could reach the summit.
Time to get some answers! Across the street from the waterfront was a hotel. SPHP went in to see what might be learned, while Lupe waited in the G6. Hotel personnel directed SPHP to the Atlin Historical Society a few blocks away. The Historical Society turned out to be a museum. Inside, a couple of old ladies were busy answering tourist’s questions.
So what did you find out, SPHP?
Nothing yet, Loop. Didn’t even talk to them. Might be wrong, but I doubt they know anything at all about getting to Teresa Island or climbing Birch Mountain in there.
What now, then?
I think there was a sign when we came into town about kayak rentals. Not going to take on Atlin Lake in a kayak, but maybe they rent motor boats, too? Let’s go have a look.
Sure enough, there was a sign. Glacier View Cabins, canoe and kayak rentals, 12 km on Warm Bay Road.
Glacier View Cabins seemed worth checking out.
Driving S on Warm Bay Road, SPHP saw no sign of Glacier View Cabins. After going an extra 2 miles, SPHP turned around. On the way back N, there it was! A sign was near a steep driveway on the E side of the road, away from Atlin Lake. SPHP drove up only as far as the first couple of cabins before parking the G6. Lupe hopped out.
Nobody seemed to be around. Lupe and SPHP trudged farther up the steep driveway. At the upper end, a home sat perched on a slope with a fabulous view of Atlin Lake and the Llewellyn Glacier. SPHP rang the doorbell. No answer. Knocking and ringing again didn’t help. On the verge of giving up, Lupe and SPHP were still standing next to the door, when suddenly a man appeared carrying a basket of laundry.
Peter Sidler and his wife, Edith, who wasn’t home at the moment, own and operate Glacier View Cabins. Originally from Switzerland, Peter had been a resident of Atlin for the past 37 years. Although busy, he invited Lupe and SPHP into his home.
Peter had canoes and kayaks available for rent, but said Atlin Lake was too big and dangerous to cross over to Teresa Island in such craft. He also had a motor boat that would have worked, but it was rented out for the next 2 days. The following 2 days it was committed to participation in a search and rescue class.
Peter did share some good information. Over the years, he had climbed Birch Mountain multiple times. There were no trails on Teresa Island, and Peter was skeptical of SPHP’s proposed route from the N. He’d never tried that, but expected the willows would make it tough to get through the forest.
The best route was from the SE, where a major rock slide gets down to within 200 meters of the shore. Staying on the rocks made the climb much easier. Peter had once gone up the NW side of the mountain, but that was more difficult. Yes, Birch Mountain could be climbed in a single day, but it would be a long, hard one.
Although Peter couldn’t get Lupe to Teresa Island in the next few days, he knew who might be able to help. No regular water taxi services were available in Atlin, but Archie Wiggins had tremendous experience in the area and ran charter services with his large boat. Gary Hill might also have a suitable boat available. A call to Mr. Wiggins went unanswered. Probably out on the water with clients.
Armed with phone numbers and instructions on how to find both Wiggins and Hill, Lupe and SPHP departed after thanking Peter for all his help. Returning to Atlin, Lupe dropped by Wiggins’ house, but no one was there. At the Hill household, Gary’s wife, Bobbi, was out in the yard. She was friendly and summoned Gary. Again no luck. Gary’s boat was rented out, and wouldn’t be available for a whole week. He had no other options for Lupe.
That left Archie Wiggins, Lupe’s last and best bet. After dinner, Loop and SPHP returned to his house in Atlin. A vehicle was there now, but knocking on the door and walking around back produced no response. Hmm. Suddenly the front door opened. Barefoot and in an old T-shirt, Archie Wiggins strode out of the house. Peter and Bobbi had both called Archie leaving messages on Lupe’s behalf. So what did SPHP want?
Passage across Atlin Lake both to and from Teresa Island.
Wiggins and his boat were available tomorrow, but his response was surprising.
Don’t really know much about Birch Mountain. We don’t get much call for it. People seldom want to hike Birch. Usually they helicopter over there. Most people I deal with want to go either to Atlin Mountain(6,722 ft.) where there’s a trail, or Cathedral Mountain(6,965 ft.). Cathedral is a gorgeous mountain, a premier destination.
Not familiar with Cathedral. What does it cost to go there? Really came for Birch. Are you willing to take us to Teresa Island?
Are you alone? Just you and the dog?
Yes.
For drop off and pickup, it’s $1,000 to Cathedral. Really a wonderful trip, and a fabulous peak. To Birch, $175. That’s just to the NE shore. More if you want to be dropped off somewhere else.
We get a lot of intrepid individuals up here, who’ve done some amazing things. My customers know what they’re doing and come prepared. I’m not going to be responsible for anyone who’s going to put themselves in a situation.
With that, without waiting for a response, Archie Wiggins turned and went back into his house. The door banged shut behind him.
That went well.
Dingo feathers! I totally blew it, Looper! The moment he quoted $175 for Teresa Island, I should have asked him what time we could start in the morning. I only hesitated because I was wondering if I ought to ask him about going to the SE side of the island to the rock slide Peter mentioned. Could have done that once we were already on board crossing the lake. He would have been thrilled to charge us more, if we didn’t like the looks of the NE shore.
He still might have asked you about inReach.
Maybe, but maybe not, too. We might well have been on our way! It would have worked out. Wiggins knows what he’s doing, and he was our last and best chance. Can’t believe I let it all fall apart like that.
Too late now. Why don’t we take the helicopter, SPHP? That would be amazing!
That’s right! He did say most people helicopter to Birch.
Discovery Helicopters was close to where Hwy 7 reached Atlin. Right away SPHP ran into Matt, a young, professional helicopter pilot.
Birch Mountain? No problem. Alone? That’s too bad. Price is the same for up to 4 people. We fly you up to an upper ridge. Still a nice hike to the summit from there. Spectacular views! Just tell us what time you want us to meet you again for pickup back at the ridge. Too late in the day to go now, but we can get you there as early as you like in the morning.
Price? Well, 10 minutes flight time one way. Two round trip flights. That’s 40 minutes. Gotta figure some time for loading and unloading. $1,000 will do it. If someone else wants to fly beyond Birch about the same time, we could save you something on that, but don’t think we have anyone lined up at the moment. Drop in again in the morning, if you want to go. We’ll see if that’s changed, and work out the details. We’ll get Lupe up there!
SPHP thanked Matt and returned to the G6.
Are we really going in a helicopter, SPHP?
It’s a great deal with 4 paying passengers. $250.00 each, Canadian. Lucky American Dingoes get a nice discount at the current exchange rate. How are those royalties on your blog doing? Rolling in the dough by now, I hope?
Business has been, umm, steady, SPHP.
Still nothing, aye?
Zippo.
Any book advances or movie rights in play?
The agents just mutter something about “extremely limited market”. By the way, what does “infinitesimal” mean?
In this context, Loopster, it means “Ain’t gonna happen.” How about those endorsements? Anything happening there?
I haven’t really endorsed anything except playing in the mountains and T-bone steaks.
No ad revenue, either, I don’t suppose.
There might be, eventually, if we ever come up with an ad.
I see. Well, doubt I can rustle up 3 additional paying passengers in the next few hours. Atlin is a small place. Probably doesn’t make sense to hang out at the marina tomorrow trying to buy a random ride from some boater to Teresa Island, either, since we’ll actually need to get back, too.
No helicopter ride?
At $250, yes. Absolutely. What an experience! Not at $1,000. We can get more bang for our buck at another mountain. To tell you the truth, I’m sort of used to free, other than our normal travel expenses.
And that was that. Lupe’s Birch Mountain dreams had gone up in smoke. The Carolina Dog left Atlin heading back N on Hwy 7. Sundown found her at a little rest stop along the E shore of Atlin Lake. The lake was almost mirror smooth. The evening so calm, and a little sad.
Evening at Atlin Lake.
6 days into what was meant to be Lupe’s grandest Dingo Vacation of 2019, Tangle Ridge had been her only major peakbagging success. Failure at Hudson Bay Mountain. Failure at Birch. She’d traveled the long road N to the Yukon, and wasn’t far from it now, yet it seemed the Carolina Dog was getting nowhere fast.
SPHP might be concerned, but Lupe wasn’t. Tomorrow was another day.
Birch Mountain from the E shore of Atlin Lake, British Columbia, Canada 8-10-19
