Days 19, 20, and Part 1 of Day 21 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
8-17-22, 7:19 AM, 55ºF, grassy bluff overlooking Kusawa Lake – Rained all night, and was still raining as Loopster got underway again. The 20 km gravel road back to the Alaska Highway was a sea of mud, the poor RAV4 a filthy mess by the time SPHP turned W onto the pavement. When the American Dingo reached Haines Junction, though, the RAV4 was looking shiny and new again, except for the rear end, which the rain hadn’t been able to wash off.
How far are we going today, SPHP?
Dunno, Loop. Depends on how long this rain continues. All the way to Alaska, easy, if it keeps up like this.
Alaska! Today? Are we really that close to Alaska, SPHP?
Yup! Remember when we climbed AB Mountain near Skagway, and you became the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, Loop? We already passed the turn to Skagway before we even got to Whitehorse.
We skipped Skagway? Why? What part of Alaska are we going to, SPHP?
As far N as we can, Looper!
The Brooks Range, SPHP?
And beyond! Deadhorse, sweet puppy! I want to see the North Slope. The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood is returning to the true Arctic! Of course, we won’t get that far in a day, but what’s the rush? We’ll be traveling through some fabulous territory. If things dry out, we’ll be making stops at some great spots you’ll recognize along the way.
N of Haines Junction, it was only 48ºF as SPHP drove past Decoeli. Lost in rain and fog, there was no recognizing that fabulous peak.
8-17-22, 10:02 AM – Only a short time later, the pavement was dry as SPHP made the turn off the highway onto the big pullout at the S end of Kluane Lake. Clouds hung gloomily over Sheep Mountain, but at least it wasn’t raining. A SW wind kicked up dust over in the Slims River valley. A lot of memories here as Lupe took a stroll along the lakeshore.
So long since the last time Lupe had been here that SPHP decided to stay a while. With a view of the mountains marching away to the N beyond Kluane Lake, SPHP spent a couple of hours working on the trip journal, glancing up now and then to watch the waves roll in. Loop slept on her pink blanket, enjoying the rest after her windy ascent of Kusawa Ridge (5,085 ft.) yesterday.
Taking a second leisurely stroll along the lake before moving on, Lupe went farther this time. The weather was even more unsettled now, the wind picking up, and the waves larger than they’d been earlier. SPHP enjoyed the walk right along the shoreline best, but the Carolina Dog preferred sniffing among the young aspens beyond the beach on the way back to the RAV4.
8-17-22, 1:13 PM, 59ºF – Light rain set in again as the drive N resumed along the W shore of Kluane Lake. This shower was soon left behind, though, and blue sky appeared. Hit 65ºF! For the first time today, a clear view of the mountains to the W was possible. SPHP daydreamed about climbing them, a mountain NW of Burwash Creek looked particularly interesting.
8-17-22, 2:34 PM – Didn’t seem to take hardly any time at all to get here. The weather was kind of crazy. Blue skies were nearly gone again. Cool and breezy, big clouds, dust, and fog filled the sky. Distant views of the St. Elias Mountains to the W vanished almost as soon as Lupe arrived.
However, she could still see one awesome mountain just beyond the Alaska Highway bridge over the Donjek River.
Donjek Crossing Mountain, SPHP! Remember when we climbed it? Oh, what a fabulous day that was!
Heh! It was nearly your last day ever, too, Looper, if you recall!
Lunch time! The Donjek River was another favorite spot. Might as well eat here. Loop took strolls down along the river both before and after lunch. The weather continued acting up. Dust, wind, fog, patches of blue sky, intermittent rain drops, and peels of thunder! A bizarro day, but it was fun being here.
SPHP completely caught up the trip journal. Tempting to stay right here, but it wasn’t that late in the day yet, and Alaska was calling!
Onward! Puppy, ho!
8-17-22, 5:46 PM – Another magnificent river wasn’t that much farther N, one Lupe had never really spent much time at, since it wasn’t as easily accessible as the Donjek. Skies were only partly cloudy when she got to the White River, so taking this opportunity to scout it out a little better seemed in order.
Horsecamp Hill (4,600 ft.) had been on Lupe’s list of possibilities for years, and SPHP wanted to get a better look at it, too. Might be some awesome views from up there, if it wasn’t too heavily forested.
N of the White River, SPHP was surprised at the number of potholes and stretches of gravel. The Alaska Highway had deteriorated in the past few years. All still perfectly passable, though, at somewhat reduced speeds.
8-17-22, 7:03 PM – Well, actually 6:03 PM Alaska time! Lupe was here!
This is a terrific sign, SPHP! Why haven’t we ever stopped here before?
Because I never thought to look for a Welcome to Alaska sign until after we went through US Customs, Loop, and this sign comes just before it.
8-17-22, 6:13 PM – After 2 questions, the customs agent returned SPHP’s passport, wishing Lupe a good day.
Congratulations Miss Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood! You’re in!
Thank you, SPHP! That was easy!
As always! Helps that you’ve got an innocent, trustworthy face, Loop!
92 miles to Tok! A peaceful evening drive through a region of low hills ensued. Tall, thin, Dr. Suess-like trees of the boreal forest extended far and away on both sides of the Alaska Highway.
8-17-22, 8:00 PM – Missed it! Turning around, SPHP drove back to a big, paved pullout less than 25 miles from Tok. Not a soul here other than an annoying number of mosquitoes. Not much of a view, either, but this would do for the night.
8-18-22, 7:12 AM, 58ºF – Clear and sunny in Tok! Compared to what it had been in Canada, cheap gas, too. At a mere $4.769 per gallon, SPHP filled the RAV4 completely.
Lupe had only been on the last stretch of the Alaska Highway from Tok to Delta Junction once before, and SPHP had little recollection of it. This was not mountainous territory, most of the drive merely hilly to pancake flat. Highlights included bridges over 3 rivers, the Robertson, Johnson, and Gerstle. Large, braided streams, they were somewhat reminiscent of the Donjek and White.
8-18-22, 9:53 AM – N of Delta Junction, SPHP stopped at a pullout along the Tanana River. Time to get out, have a look, and sniff the air for a few minutes. No sooner had Lupe ventured over to the river’s edge than a couple of boys came running over. They asked a million questions about Lupe, wanted to pet her, and were anxious to show SPHP a couple of sticks they had been whittling with jack knives.
Gray with silt, the Tanana was like all the other big rivers Lupe had been seeing. Snow-capped peaks beyond it were an inspiring sight, but a long way off. A few miles later, another pullout on a bluff provided a better overall view of the Tanana River itself.
The American Dingo went into a barking frenzy prompted by low-flying jets near Eielson AFB. North Pole wasn’t much farther, and Fairbanks was just beyond that.
Beneath sunny skies with puffy white clouds, Lupe reached Fairbanks for the first time in 5 years before noon. Last chance to to resupply and fuel up with cheap gas! Free potable water at Pioneer Park, too. Once those tasks were taken care of, the Carolina Dog was free to move on. Everything was going according to plan. Only one problem.
Decision time, Loop.
About what, SPHP?
About where to go, Looper.
I thought we already knew? We’re heading N, right, SPHP?
That was the plan, but now I’m not so sure. Checked the weather forecast for Coldfoot when we got into town. It’s completely flipped from the last forecast the iPhone gave me back in Whitehorse 3 days ago. Coldfoot was supposed to be sunny and clear for a whole week. Now that we’ve come all this way, it’s saying 90% chance of rain today, 70% tomorrow, and cloudy for days after that.
Well, what are our options, SPHP?
We could delay our jaunt N by a couple of days, Loop. The forecast looks a little better down here. Pinnell Mountain (4,934 ft.) is NE out the Steese Highway. Might be fun?
You decide, SPHP! I’m happy either way.
After dithering for half an hour, SPHP made a questionable decision, continuing due N at Fox.
The drive to Livengood was beautiful! Elliot Highway No. 2 wound up and down heavily forested ridges separated by deep valleys. Not much traffic, except some big trucks. Knew where those were coming from!
8-18-22, 5:21 PM – Blinking in the late afternoon sunshine, Lupe stood in front of a sign she hadn’t seen in nearly 5 years. Must have rained not too long ago, because the pullout in front of it was muddy.
Naturally, the Dalton Highway was damp and muddy in spots, too. The rear end of the RAV4 was soon on its way back to being a filthy mess, but that was to be expected sooner or later on the Dalton even in the best of times. The drive was awesome! Occasional sprinkles from silver-lined clouds, the pale blue sky of the far N over dark green forests, and from some of the highest ridges, views of distant hills and mountains of the trackless wilderness.
After not having been here for so many years, it was like returning to a world once glimpsed in a long forgotten dream.
8-18-22, 7:00 PM – MP56! Lupe stood at the upper end of the bridge over the Yukon River, first big scenic landmark along the Dalton Highway. Although traffic was only intermittent, it wasn’t a good idea to stand there too long. A quick photo, and SPHP called her back.
Much safer to check out the mighty Yukon River from the N bank. After driving over the bridge, SPHP parked the RAV4 near an old friend, the Alaska oil pipeline. Lupe was happy to see it again before wandering over to the river for a look.
Lemon pepper chicken! Now that was tasty, SPHP!
Guess I should have bought 2 of them in Fairbanks, Loop. We ate the whole thing!
Full of chicken, the lovely evening drive N continued.
8-18-22, 8:53 PM, MP98 – Must have rained hard here within the last hour. The last few miles of the Dalton Highway before SPHP made the turn into the Finger Mountain Wayside were a sloppy mess full of big mud puddles. Somewhere the sun was still up, but Lupe couldn’t see it due to all the dark clouds toward the N.
Finger Mountain (2,202 ft.), SPHP! We’ve got to climb it!
Absolutely, sweet puppy! Let’s go!
Finger Mountain’s summit was practically right there, only a short stroll N of the rest area. A nature trail wound up a small hill to the dramatic rock formation at the very top. The air was cool and moist, on the chilly side, actually, as SPHP took the long way around reading various plaques about the flora along the way.
Two ravens flew off as Lupe began the tiny scramble to the summit. SPHP had no intention of getting up there, but was more than willing to provide the American Dingo with the required, slightly nerve-wracking, final boost.
Oh, my gosh, SPHP! Can’t believe I’m here on Finger Mountain again!
I know! Seems so strange, and yet so familiar, doesn’t it? You’ve almost done it, too. Only 17 miles to the Arctic Circle from here. The return of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood is nearly complete!
I’ve been neglecting my Arctic Sisterhood duties for a long time, SPHP, but it wasn’t my fault. All Covid-19’s fault!
Tell me about it, Loop! None of that matters now, though, we’re back! This is as far as we’re going tonight, though. Your all new adventures in the true Arctic start tomorrow, weather permitting, of course.
As the evening sky demonstrated, that last part was somewhat in doubt. After helping Lupe down off Finger Mountain’s summit, a stroll was taken across the Dalton Highway to another, smaller rock outcropping with a view of Caribou Mountain (3,179 ft.) off to the WNW.
Remember our long journey to Caribou Mountain, Loop? Nobody goes there.
How can I ever forget, SPHP? It was all grand, until the very end.
Oh, yeah! We got soaked, didn’t we?
I sure did, SPHP. At least you had your old blue Cookie Monster outfit!
8-19-22, early – SPHP opened an eye. Lupe was peering out the window of the RAV4 into a thick, gray fog.
You’re awake, SPHP? Good! Can you let me out for a few minutes?
Sure thing, Loop. Need to sniff the air?
The Carolina Dog needed to do more than that. Once out of the RAV4, Lupe puked along the perimeter of the wayside parking lot. Not a lot, just a little.
Queasy, aye, Looper? Too much lemon pepper chicken? Don’t worry about it. Unless this fog dissipates, we won’t be going anywhere for a while.
Returning to the RAV4, Lupe got back up onto her pink blanket. Clearly, a morning snooze was in order. By the time Loop woke up again, the fog had a blue tinge to it, and a bright spot revealed the position of the sun.
How ya feeling, Loopster?
Much better, SPHP, thank you!
Good! Looks like this fog is about to break up. Feel up to climbing Finger Mountain again?
It’s so easy, I might as well log another ascent while we’re still here, SPHP. After all, not very often that I get the chance. We ought to visit Finger Rock, too!
That’s the spirit! You must be feeling better, Loop. Glad to see it!
8-19-22, 8:24 AM – In weak sunshine, Lupe stood atop Finger Mountain once again. She stayed there only long enough for SPHP to get photos from a couple of different angles before helping her back down again.
How was it up there, Loop? Still feeling good enough to visit Finger Rock?
I’m fine now, SPHP. Let’s do it!
Finger Rock, which Finger Mountain is named for, was 0.5 mile SSE of the true summit Lupe had already visited. Bushes along an intermittent use path leading to it were soaking wet, and noticeably taller than the only other time Lupe had visited Finger Rock years ago. By the time she got to it again, the Carolina Dog mighty soggy, too.
Since Finger Rock wasn’t the summit of anything other than itself, Lupe contented herself with a little light scrambling around on the big rocks near its base. Finger Rock looked quite different, tall and skinny, or kind of fat and stout, depending on the angle of view.
Content with her morning inspection of famous Finger Rock, Lupe headed back to the Finger Mountain Wayside.
8-19-22, 9:46 AM – From a boulder near the summit of Finger Mountain, Lupe scanned the Kanuti River basin. Still quite cloudy that way.
Just think! We can see more than 2/3 of the remaining distance to the Arctic Circle from here, Loop. Is the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood ready to resume her adventures in the true Arctic?
I can hardly wait, SPHP! Been waiting for this day for a long, long time!
Me, too, Loopster! Me, too!
Links:
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
BLM Dalton Highway Visitor Guide
AB Mountain – Lupe Joins the Arctic Sisterhood, Skagway, Alaska (8-7-17).
Slope Mountain and Highlights of the Dalton Highway Revisited (8-22-17 & 8-23-17)
Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.
