Oh, Canada! – The Long Road North: To The Canadian Rockies & Beyond! (7-30-22 thru 8-3-22)

Days 1-5 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

7-30-22, 2:30 PM, 92ºF, home – Hours of preparations and excitement had led to this!  Resting high on her pink blanket covering a pile of supplies and padding, Lupe smiled broadly in happy anticipation of what was next.  The American Dingo was about to set off on her 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation, and this wasn’t just any old Dingo Vacation, oh no!

Are we really going to Canada and Alaska, SPHP?  It’s been 3 years!  I was afraid we might not ever see them again!

SPHP tried to sound convincingly cheerful.

Absolutely, sweet puppy!  At least, if Canada will actually let us cross the border.  Think I’ve got everything all lined up.  We’ll just have to see how it goes.  Should be fine, Canada is officially open again!

Before turning the key, SPHP looked over at Lupe.  She was so beautiful, and so happy!  This late July afternoon truly was a rare and wonderful occasion, only the 5th time the Carolina Dog had ever set off for Alaska!

Epic!  Yet also bittersweet.  SPHP was filled with grief and remorse.  The left side of Lupe’s face had an ugly wound on it.  Brand new.  And it was all SPHP’s fault on this otherwise joyful day.

Loopster ready to set out for Canada & Alaska for the first time in 3 years!

Happened just yesterday.  At some point in the last month or so Lupe must have rolled in something, because she’d had a black, sticky, tar-like substance clinging to a small clump of fur on her face for the last several weeks.  When it wouldn’t wash off, wanting Loop to look her finest for her next big Dingo Vacation, SPHP had gotten out a scissors to cut away that little clump of gooey fur.

The tar was tougher, and provided more resistance than expected, but a few seconds of cutting with the scissors had finally done the trick.  The tar came off, but when it did, SPHP was instantly shocked and horrified.

Oh, no!  Oh my gosh, Lupe!  What have I done?  I’ve cut your beautiful face wide open!  You didn’t flinch, or bark, or shy away from me.  You should have bit me!  Instead you just looked trustingly into my eyes and let me do this terrible, painful thing to you.  I’m so sorry!  How could I have been so careless and such an idiot?  We’re going to the puppy doctor!

At the emergency clinic, the puppy doctor cut away a loose flap of skin with beautiful fur still clinging to it that was going to die anyway, fully exposing the hideous wound.  The wound wasn’t deep, just a fleshy spot the size of a nickel seeping a little blood.  Staples or stitches to close the gap weren’t required, but Lupe’s fur wasn’t likely to ever grow back.  She would always have a scar.

Lupe went home with an anti-biotic cream and pain pills.

SPHP was guilty, guilty, guilty, but there was nothing more to be done.

Oh, Lupe!  We’re going to have so many grand adventures in Canada and Alaska on this Dingo Vacation!  Going to be just like old times!  You ready?

I can hardly wait, SPHP!

SPHP turned the key, and backed the RAV4 out of the driveway.  After 3 long years, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was on her way!

7-31-22, 7:18 AM, 52ºF Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming – Exactly 3 weeks ago, on the last day of her prior Dingo Vacation to Wyoming, Lupe had been by here on an evening so cold and windy that SPHP had chickened out and driven her straight home.  The Carolina Dog was back, though!  From the Bald Mountain campground off Hwy 14A, Loop trotted toward the familiar open slopes of Bald Mountain (10,042 ft.).

Setting out for Bald Mountain (L). Photo looks SE.

Are we going to fix the names, SPHP?

We are!  Hard to believe, but it’s been 4 years since we’ve been up on Bald Mountain, Loopster.  A little maintenance is likely in order.

Make that quite a bit of maintenance.  The names were still there, but in poor condition when Lupe found them not too far from the NW end of the vast summit region.  The American Dingo had plenty of time to sniff about while SPHP made extensive repairs.

Loopster by her reconstituted name on Bald Mountain. Photo looks SE.

Once the names were back in order, Lupe naturally completed the easy stroll to the true summit.  Medicine Mountain (9,962 ft.) and it’s giant FAA golf ball were in sight several miles back to the NW, but all the more distant views were hazy.

Medicine Mountain (L of Center) from Bald Mountain’s true summit. Photo looks NW.

The entire American West fills up with smoke every summer, doesn’t it Looper?  Didn’t use to be that way.

Oh, but aren’t we the lucky ones, SPHP?  Bet we won’t have to worry about smoke once we get far enough N into Canada!

Sure hope you’re right, Loop, and suspect you are, but you never know.  Remember how smoky even Alaska was in 2019?

5:01 PM, 81ºF, Little Belt Mountains, Montana – Bald Mountain had been a great morning romp!  Most of the rest of the day had been a long, hot drive from Wyoming on into Montana.  So many cows and horses to bark at!  It had been a wonderful, if shrill time.  Late afternoon now, but Lupe had made it here early enough to honor a long-standing tradition.

Kings Hill Pass (7,393 ft.)!  We really, truly are going to Canada, aren’t we, SPHP?  We always come here first!

Almost always, Loop.  We didn’t the first time in 2013, but ever since then, yeah.  The Little Belt Mountains are a nice, cool spot to spend a night.

We always climb Kings Hill (8,008 ft.) or Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.) when we do come here, SPHP.  So which will it be?  Any preference?

Yes, but we really don’t have to choose between them.  Should have time to visit both!  Whad’ya say we climb Kings Hill first?

Kings Hill true summit. Photo looks S.
Porphyry Peak (L) from Kings Hill. Photo looks WNW.
Porphyry Peak fire lookout tower. Photo looks ENE.
Big Baldy Mountain (Center) from Porphyry Peak. Photo looks NNE.

8-1-22, 12:05 PM, I-15 at Port of Coutts, Montana/Canada border – Only 2 Canadian customs lanes were open.  The RAV4 was 6th in line.

Moment of truth coming up, Loopster!  Hope they don’t make us wait.  Told them on Arrive-CAN that we wouldn’t be here until 3:00 PM.

Waiting won’t be so bad, SPHP, provided Canada ultimately lets us in.  You had to specify the exact hour of arrival?

Yeah.  Knew we’d be here by noon, but decided to give ourselves some slack just in case.  Don’t know what we’ll do if Canada says no, and just sends us away.  We’ll have to plan an entirely different Dingo Vacation, pronto.

Canadian customs, Port of Coutts opposite Sweetgrass, Montana.

For 10 minutes the line seemed stuck.  No movement.  Then suddenly whatever had been the hold-up was over.  Soon SPHP was handing a US passport to the Canadian customs agent.  2 minutes later, the RAV4 was picking up speed, heading N!

Whoo-hoo!  We’re in, Loop!  You’re back in, Canada!  On to Lethbridge!

That was easy, SPHP!  Same old questions they always ask you.

Yup!  Not a word about Covid-19.  All that hassle and worry over nothing.

Our reputation as world class anti-social distancers must have preceded us, SPHP.

Oh, yes!  I’m sure that’s it, Looper.  Anyway, I’m glad it went the way it did.  Smooth sailing now!

So, what’s next, SPHP?  Where are we going first?

Mostly just driving again today, Loopster.  Been so long since we’ve been to Canada and Alaska that I want to make tracks N as fast as we can the next few days.  That doesn’t mean we can’t take the scenic route, though.  How about something old and something new this afternoon?

You’re being coy, SPHP, but OK, surprise me!

Hwy 40 over Highwood Pass was the scenic route.  Kananaskis Country!  Peter Lougheed Provincial Park!  The American Dingo hadn’t been to beautiful Upper Kananaskis Lake since 2014, but saw it again today.

Storm Mountain (10,153 ft.) (Center) from Hwy 40 on the way to Highwood Pass. Photo looks NNE.
Gap Mountain (8,661 ft.) (L) from Highwood Pass. Photo looks NW.
Gorgeous Upper Kananaskis Lake. Photo looks NW.

After a pleasant half hour at Upper Kananaskis Lake, the something new was a trip along washboardy Smith-Dorrien Road, the purpose being to see the Spray Lakes Reservoir for the first time ever.  An odd trail from a picnic ground led a short distance down through a forest to a small cliff overlooking the lake.  A better lakeshore viewpoint appeared only a few miles farther N along the road.

Spray Lakes Reservoir. Big Sister (9,633 ft.) (R of Center). Photo looks N.
On the odd trail overlooking Spray Lakes Reservoir. Photo looks SW.
A better view from right along the shoreline. Photo looks S.

By evening, Lupe was in Banff!

Oh, SPHP!  I love Banff!  Can we do my traditional Pretty Puppy Parade up and down Banff Avenue?  Haven’t done it in ever so long!

Absolutely, Loopster!  Can’t miss out on the Pretty Puppy Parade!

Banff had changed since the last time Lupe was here.  Vehicles were no longer permitted in the heart of downtown.  People were dining at tables out in the street, and a new footbridge was under construction over the Bow River.  Banff was still it’s same old festive self, though, with scenic Cascade Mountain (9,836 ft.) looming in the distance, lined-up perfectly with Banff Avenue.

The Pretty Puppy Parade, a stroll along Banff Avenue while taking in all the tourists, fancy shops, and sniffing with other dogs as opportunity arose, was a success as always.  3 young men from Maryland wanted to pet Lupe.  They told her how beautiful she was, which made her day!

Back in Banff on the Pretty Puppy Parade! Cascade Mountain (R). Photo looks N.
Bow River looking W toward the new footbridge.

8-2-22, 6:30 AM, Banff – Although the night had been warm, the morning was pleasantly cool as the RAV4 hit Hwy 1 on the way out of Banff.  An incredibly scenic drive was ahead.

Only one day to spend in the Canadian Rockies?  Not nearly enough, SPHP!

Oh, don’t I know it, Loopster?  Remember back in 2013 and 2014 when the Canadian Rockies were as far as we went on your Dingo Vacations?

We enjoyed many glorious adventures here, SPHP!

Indeed we did, Loop!  Even though we’re making tracks N, we’ll still stop at some of our favorite Canadian Rockies highlights today.

I suppose that’s something, SPHP, but sometime we need to come back to really explore again.

So many mountains, so little time!  Lupe was far from alone in wanting to spend more time in the Canadian Rockies.  Even though she reached the turn for Moraine Lake at 7:30 AM, the road was closed.  Signs said the Moraine Lake parking lot was already full.  Even the upper lot at Lake Louise was filling up fast, despite having to pay now.

Crowds had already gathered along the lake shore near the splendid Chateau Lake Louis when Lupe arrived.  Mount Victoria (11,375 ft.) was still as spectacular as ever beyond the turquoise lake.

Mount Victoria (Center) from Lake Louise. Photo looks SW.
Chateau Lake Louise.

Remember when we used to take the Plain of Six Glaciers trail all the way to the end to see the Death Trap, SPHP?

Of course, I do!  So much fun, we did it twice!  Even saw a wolverine once near the end of the day on the way back down to Lake Louise.  Remember our biggest adventure here, though, Loop?

How could I forget Fairview Mountain, when I’m looking right at it, SPHP?  The views of Mount Victoria, Mount Temple (11,614 ft.), and so many others were absolutely incredible from up there!  We explored Saddle Mountain (7,963 ft.), too!

Fairview Mountain (L) and Mount Victoria (R) from Lake Louise. Photo looks SW.

It was a shame Moraine Lake was too crowded to visit, but continuing N on Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93, Lupe got to stop at beautiful Bow Lake, another jumping off region for several fabulous Dingo adventures once upon a time.  Mount Jimmy Simpson was in sight beyond red-roofed Num-Ti-Jah Lodge from the picnic ground along the E shoe.

Mount Jimmy Simpson (Center) from Bow Lake. Photo looks NW.

From over by the lodge, Bow Peak (9,318 ft.) and the Crowfoot Glacier were in sight to the SE.  Bow Glacier Falls and the Bow Glacier above it were visible to the SW.

Bow Peak (L) and the Crowfoot Glacier (R) from Bow Lake. Photo looks SE.
Bow Glacier and Bow Glacier Falls (Center) from Bow Lake. Photo looks SW.

Can we go to Bow Glacier Falls, SPHP?  That’s an awesome trail!

I’d love to, Loopster, but think we should press on.  How about we take the Parker Ridge trail, instead?  Won’t take quite as long.

Parker Ridge (7,612 ft.) near the N end of Banff National Park was a bit of a drive yet.  However, by 10:45 AM, Lupe was on the popular trail that switchbacks roughly 900 feet up to the crest of the ridge.  A short distance beyond the crest she came to the fabulous scenic reward – a splendid view of the Saskatchewan Glacier.

Saskatchewan Glacier (L) from Parker Ridge. Photo looks SW.

A fun off-trail jaunt on grassy slopes among minor rock formations up to Parker Ridge’s E high point provided an even more spectacular vantage point.  Almost completely snow-clad Castleguard Mountain (10,098 ft.) was in sight across the canyon at the far upper end of the Saskatchewan Glacier.  On this side of the canyon, both Hilda Peak (10,039 ft.) and mighty Mount Athabasca (11,453 ft.) were in view.

Heading for the Parker Ridge E high point (Center). Photo looks E.
At the Parker Ridge E summit. Castleguard Mountain and Saskatchewan Glacier (L), Mount Athabasca (R), Hilda Peak (far R). Photo looks WSW.
Zoomed in a little. Castleguard Mountain and Saskatchewan Glacier (Center). Photo looks SW.

Mount Saskatchewan (10,965 ft.) loomed in the distance beyond a long section of the North Saskatchewan River canyon visible below the lake at the toe of the glacier.

Mount Saskatchewan (far L), Castleguard Mountain and Saskatchewan Glacier (far R). Photo looks SSW.

Looking NW, Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) was in sight beyond Sunwapta Pass.  Nigel Peak (10,535 ft.) stood out just N of the pass.

Mount Athabasca (L), Hilda Peak (beyond cairn), Sunwapta Pass and Mount Wilcox (beyond Lupe), Nigel Peak (R). Photo looks NW.

Tremendous views all around, but it was hard not to just keep coming back to that magnificent spectacle of the Saskatchewan Glacier!

Castleguard Mountain (L) and the Saskatchewan Glacier (L of Center) from Parker Ridge. Photo looks SW.
Castleguard Mountain and Saskatchewan Glacier. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Parker Ridge was the big outing of the day, but far from the last scenic stop.  Sunwapta Pass where Jasper National Park began was only a bit farther N, and just down the road from the pass the Athabasca Glacier was in view right from the highway.  A must see!

Mount Andromeda (L) and the Athabasca Glacier (Center). Photo looks SW.
Athabasca Glacier. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

The Athabasca Glacier was it for the day as far as glaciers.  Continuing N on Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93, some incredible waterfalls were the new focus.  Sunwapta Falls came first, followed by Athabasca Falls.  Both were foaming gray torrents, thundering into narrow gorges below.

Between these falls, Lupe got to stop at her favorite picnic ground along the Athabasca River.  The American Dingo enjoyed a romp through the forest looking for squirrels, but didn’t see any.

Sunwapta Falls. Photo looks NE.
Near the brink. Photo looks NE.
Athabasca River from Lupe’s favorite picnic ground. Photo looks S.
At Athabasca Falls.
Mount Kerkeslin (9,698 ft.) from Athabasca Falls. Photo looks SE.

After a quick refueling stop in Jasper, the RAV4 rolled on, taking Lupe W into British Columbia on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16.  The American Dingo got out briefly for a look at Moose Lake, and yet again for a pleasant trek down to Overlander Falls, where she scrambled among the rocks by the huge swirling whirlpool below it.

Moose Lake. Photo looks WNW.
Overlander Falls in Mount Robson Provincial Park.
How Overlander Falls got its name.
Down by the whirlpool.

The evening ended on a gloomier note with Mount Robson (12,989 ft.), highest peak of the Canadian Rockies, shrouded in clouds and light rain.

At least we got to see Mount Robson before, SPHP.  Remember when we went through the Valley of a Thousand Falls all the way to Berg Lake?

Yes!  A fantastic trail, Looper.  We ought to do that again someday.

8-3-22, 7:31 AM – Fog drifted among the mountains.  Still overcast, gray clouds spit light rain.  Good day for a long drive!  Arriving fairly early, Lupe did get out of the RAV4 for a little while to visit Rearguard Falls, which she had all to herself this morning.  Like all the other waterfalls Looper had been to yesterday, the sheer volume and power of the flow was overwhelming.

Rearguard Falls is the upper limit of the Fraser River’s Chinook salmon run.
On the elaborate boardwalk leading down to the falls.
Right next to Rearguard Falls, which is actually more like a big rapids.
Rearguard Falls. Both Rearguard and Overlander Falls are on the Fraser River.
By the Fraser River just upstream of Rearguard Falls.

The next stop came 1.5 hours later at the Goat River rest area, a favorite secluded spot on the way to Prince George.  Without any signage, SPHP missed the turn, and had to go back.

Enjoying a sniff at the secluded Goat River rest area.
Along the Goat River near the Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 bridge.
Goat River downstream view.

Lupe’s final stop before Prince George was at the Ancient Forest.  With time somewhat of the essence, the Carolina Dog did only the basic main loop, instead of the entire trail system as she’d done once before.  That still allowed her to visit both Treebeard and the Radies Tree again, two enormous 1,000 year old western red cedars.

Arriving at the Ancient Forest.
Lupe explored only the main loop (in green) today.
On the raised boardwalk near the start of the loop.
About the ancient western red cedars.
Among the ferns on the way to the upper part of the loop.
Treebeard, named after J.R.R Tolkien’s ent from middle earth.
Info about the Radies tree.
Radies tree.

With many miles to go, it could rain all day long, if it wanted to, which it did off and on.  Lupe snoozed on her pink blanket most of the afternoon, occasionally opening an eye to gaze out the window.  Going to Alaska!  Could anything be more fun?  The drive through the drizzle was so very scenic and soothing.  A marvelous day!

8-3-22, 5:22 PM – The afternoon was about shot by the time Lupe reached her next stop of any significance.  Can’t miss the dazzling flower gardens at Steelhead Park in the little town of Houston!  An impressive variety of lilies seemed to be the specialty this year.

Steelhead Park in Houston, British Columbia.
Lilies.

Many other kinds of flowers and decorative plants were featured, too.  Steelhead Park isn’t very big, so Lupe had time to visit nearly the entire collection.  The only genuine disappointment was that the fountain still wasn’t working.  It hadn’t been in 2019, either, the last time Loop was here, but had always been operational before then.

Another colorful display.
By the Steelhead fountain.

Wonder why they don’t fix it, SPHP?  The fountain was always such a lovely centerpiece!

Lack of funds, I suppose, Looper.  Seems a shame, doesn’t it?

8-3-22, 6:21 PM, Telkwa – The sky remained overcast as Lupe stood on a new sidewalk on a levee overlooking the Bulkley River.

Bulkley River, Telkwa, British Columbia.

Not much farther to Smithers now, Looper.  We’ll be there soon.

Smithers!  That’s where Hudson Bay Mountain (8,494 ft.) is, SPHP!  And the Babine Mountains, too.  Remember Harvey Mountain, the Onions, and Astlais Mountain?

Sure do, Loop!  Hope the weather clears up tomorrow!  Been 5 days, and we’re nearly 1,800 miles from home now.  That ought to be about enough driving for a while.

Oh, are we going to climb a mountain tomorrow, SPHP?

If the weather cooperates, Loopster.  We’ll see.

On the way to Smithers, a small patch of blue appeared to the N, and the sky brightened to the W.  At dusk in Driftwood Canyon, it almost looked like the whole sky was starting to clear, but it was hard to tell for sure.

Along the Bulkley River, Telkwa, British Columbia, Canada 8-3-22

Links:

Next Adventure                         Prior Adventure

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Smoke & Water – The Canadian Rockies to the Babine Mountains (8-7-18 & 8-8-18)

Day 4 & Part of Day 5 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

8-7-18, 7:46 AM, 53°F, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada – SPHP pulled out onto Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.  Within minutes, Lupe saw Bow Lake again, and magnificent Mount Jimmy Simpson (9,731 ft.).  Yesterday she’d had the grand good fortune to make it to the summit, but mountain climbing wasn’t on the agenda today.  This was a rest and travel day.

Not the kind of hurried, don’t stop for anything except restrooms, fuel, and food sort of travel.  The Canadian Rockies are too wonderful for that!  Although the American Dingo was going hundreds of miles, she would still have opportunities to stop at favorite places along the road.

So that was the plan.  By the time Lupe reached Jasper National Park, though, the sky was uncharacteristically hazy.  Smoke from distant forest fires dimmed normally crisp views of the mountains.

8-7-18, 9:09 AM, 58°F, Icefields Centre, Jasper National Park – Smoky, but not bad.  SPHP stopped so Lupe could see one of the Canadian Rockies’ most amazing views from the highway, the Athabasca Glacier.  The huge glacier, one of six major arms of the Columbia Icefield, has retreated a long way over the past century, but remains a must see, if one has any opportunity at all!

Of course, Lupe had seen the Athabasca Glacier before – a couple of times from an even more spectacular vantage point up by Wilcox Pass.  Despite the smoke, the view from the highway was still absolutely worthwhile.

The Athabasca Glacier is a must see attraction of the Canadian Rockies! Photo looks SW.
Mount Athabasca, one of several splendid peaks near the Athabasca Glacier. Photo looks SSE.
Mount Athabasca (11,453 ft.) with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSE.

As Lupe and SPHP continued N on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93, the smoky haze did not diminish.  The smoke marred views of the mountains, but didn’t interfere with sights closer by.  Waterfalls, rivers, and lakes were destined to become the focus for the day.  Luckily, the Carolina Dog was going to go right past some great ones!

8-7-18, 9:57 AM, 62°F, Sunwapta Falls, Jasper National Park – The first big waterfall N of the Athabasca Glacier was Sunwapta Falls.  The silt-laden Sunwapta River was running high.  A torrent of light gray water swept by an upstream island then plunged into a narrow gorge immediately downstream.

Lupe checked out the impressive scene from both a bridge over the gorge, and a chain link fence at the very brink of the falls.

Sunwapta Falls. The Sunwapta River starts at Sunwapta Pass at the S end of Jasper National Park. Meltwaters from the Athabasca Glacier contribute to the flow.
Wow! I don’t think we’ve ever seen Sunwapta Falls with such tremendous flow before!

8-7-18, 10:28 AM, 68°F, Athabasca River, Jasper National Park – The Sunwapta River flows into the mighty Athabasca River.  Athabasca Falls was going to be absolutely roaring today!  Before Lupe got that far, though, SPHP stopped at the American Dingo’s favorite picnic ground on the W side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.

This choice spot right along the Athabasca River was often completely vacant several years ago when Lupe first discovered it.  For some reason there hadn’t been any signage for it along the highway.  Signage was sadly present now, but since it was still a bit early for lunch, Lupe found her picnic ground delightfully quiet again this morning.

Loop enjoyed a stroll upstream along the Athabasca River, spent some time roaming the forest looking for squirrels to bark at, and even went wading along the river’s edge.  Having skipped breakfast, SPHP had an early lunch at one of the tables overlooking the river, while catching up the trip journal.

How’s this for a view from your picnic table? There’s always squirrels in the forest, too!
I’ll stay right by the edge here, SPHP, promise! I remember that giant waterfall downstream. Not going over that! Loop in the Athabasca River.

8-7-18, 11:31 AM, 75°F, Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park – The turn to Athabasca Falls was only 5 miles N of the picnic ground.  This close to noon on a lovely day in early August, Athabasca Falls was teeming with tourists.  Justifiably so.  Lupe and SPHP played tourist, too.  It was a wait your turn at the viewpoints situation, but totally worth it.

Lupe liked all the activity!  People smiled at her, children petted her, plenty of other doggie tourists were available to sniff with, and, of course, there was that enormously powerful waterfall to admire.

Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park.
Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park.
Even if you have to wait in line, just do it! Athabasca Falls is so impressive!
Athabasca Falls is 20 miles S of Jasper just off Icefields Parkway Highway 93.

8-7-18, 1:07 PM, Yellowhead Pass – The morning had flown by.  After a stop for fuel in Jasper, SPHP drove W on Yellowhead Hwy 16.  Only 21 miles to the British Columbia border at Yellowhead Pass (3,760 ft.).

SPHP stopped here briefly, so Loop could stretch her legs.  A small lake, Portal Lake, was nearby.  A sign said there was a 20 minute return trail along Portal Lake, but Lupe didn’t take it.  Greater sights were ahead.

Lupe reaches British Colombia at Yellowhead Pass.
By Portal Lake at Yellowhead Pass.

8-7-18, 1:38 PM, 72°F, Moose Lake – At the British Columbia border, Lupe also entered Mount Robson Provincial Park.  Continuing W on Hwy 16, SPHP expected the sky to clear any time now, but instead the smoke was getting thicker.  By the time Lupe made it to Moose Lake, it was hard to see the mountains at all.

Fortunately, there were 2 more big waterfalls ahead to look forward to along the Fraser River.

At Yellowhead Pass, Lupe entered Mount Robson Provincial Park.
Well, here we are at beautiful Moose Lake along Hwy 16, but it’s smokier than ever!

8-7-18, 1:58 PM, 75°F, Overlander Falls, Mount Robson Provincial Park – The first waterfall on the Fraser River was Overlander Falls.  A trailhead was right along Hwy 16 just a mile or so before the Mount Robson Park visitor center.  Lupe took a shady 10 minute trail from Hwy 16 down a series of switchbacks to the gorgeous waterfall.

Overlander Falls was only 30 feet high, but the Fraser River gushing through a narrow gap and dropping into a huge swirling pool of pale blue-green waters was an amazing sight.  While relaxing by Overlander Falls, Lupe wound up making a new friend from Saskatchewan.

10 minutes on this lovely trail will get us down to Overlander Falls!
Overlander Falls is the uppermost of 2 major waterfalls on the Fraser River.
Overlander Falls isn’t as big as Sunwapta Falls or Athabasca Falls, but the color of the water and this big swirling pool are simply amazing!
The cool spray feels great!
There’s always time for love and new friends!

8-7-18, 3:16 PM, 78°F, Rearguard Falls Provincial Park – The second major waterfall along the Fraser River was only 10 miles from Overlander Falls.  Rearguard Falls has its own provincial park!  Once again, Lupe took a 10 or 15 minute trail from a trailhead right along Hwy 16 down to the waterfall.

Rearguard Falls wasn’t even as high as Overlander Falls, almost more of a giant rapids than a waterfall, but the breadth and strength of the water surging over it was also impressive.  A sign up by the parking lot said Rearguard Falls was as far up the Fraser River as salmon were able to make it.

Here’s the plan, SPHP! When we get down to the falls, I’ll race in and snag us one of the big salmon leaping out of the river, while you fight off the bears. Ready? Let’s do this!
I can almost taste that big delicious salmon already! Come on, it’s this way!
A first glimpse of Rearguard Falls from the trail.
How’s this for a snazzy walkway setup? We’re almost to Rearguard Falls now.
Rearguard Falls. The air was still smoky, but the Fraser River was simply gorgeous!
Rearguard Falls on the Fraser River.
So beautiful! Kind of a shame there aren’t any salmon here today, though. I was really looking forward to seeing SPHP fend off the grizzly bears, while I nabbed us dinner!

8-7-18, 5:06 PM, Goat River, British Columbia – After leaving Rearguard Falls, it hadn’t been much farther to the junction with Yellowhead South Hwy 5.  Nearly all the traffic went that way, heading for Kamloops.  Lupe and SPHP stayed on Yellowhead Hwy 16 going NW following the wide Fraser River valley.

The Fraser River was seldom in view, but this was now a most relaxing drive with virtually no traffic.  Loopster was well past McBride, the only community of any significant size, when, after crossing a bridge, a short side road led down to a rest area and picnic ground by the Goat River.  This was a beautiful spot Lupe had been to once before in 2016.

It wasn’t quite time to eat yet, but the Carolina Dog was happy making a brief exploration along the river.

Lupe enjoys a drink from the Goat River.
The Goat River was considerably higher than when Lupe had stopped here in 2016.
An upstream view. Still smoky out!

The Goat River was a nice break, but the last one of the day.  The long drive continued.  Lupe went through Prince George (86°F!) and beyond, still on Yellowhead Hwy 16.  The whole day, for hundreds of miles, had been smoky.  If anything, the smoke was getting worse.

8-7-18, 8:43 PM, 67°F, Dry Williams Lake – Beyond Fort Fraser a pinkish-red sun sank into the murk.  An eerie twilight developed.  The smoke was bad.  Nevertheless, time to call it a day.  A rest area appeared a few miles farther on at Dry Williams Lake.  This would do nicely!  There were picnic tables, and a mowed area where the American Dingo could romp with a view of the lake.

Lupe had gone a long way today.  The day’s highlights had all involved water in some form – a glacier, waterfalls, rivers and lakes.  Smoke had increasingly spoiled the mountain views, but it couldn’t last forever, could it?  After dinner (not fresh salmon unfortunately), the Carolina Dog curled up on her pile of pillows and blankets to snooze and dream of crystal blue skies tomorrow.

Evening at Dry Williams Lake.

8-8-18, 6:45 AM, 54°F, Dry Williams Lake – The sun rose as it had sunk last night, oddly colored from a murky sea of smoke where a horizon should have been.  Any dreams of crystal blue skies were apparently just that – dreams.  The forest fires must not be terribly far away.  The G6 was covered with a layer of ash.  A short stroll around the rest area to let Lupe do some sniffing, then it was time to hit the road again.

Sunrise at Dry Williams Lake.

Lupe had barely left Dry Williams Lake, when upon rounding a bend in the road, a patch of blue sky was visible to the N.  The end of the smoke!  Conditions improved steadily.  Crystal blue skies weren’t a mere dream!  It took an hour and a half to drive completely out of the smoke.  By then it wasn’t much farther to Houston.

A stop in Houston is traditional, perhaps even mandatory.  Lupe always visits Houston’s lovely Steelhead Park.  Hwy 16 goes right past it.  Loop wasn’t about to miss out on Steelhead Park on this crystal blue summer day, a dream come true!

Steelhead Park in Houston is a piece of paradise! Come on, let’s go sniffing around. The sniffing is fantastic here!
Steelhead Park is supposed to be in honor of steelhead fishing, which Houston is famous for, but for me, it’s all about the flowers.
Steelhead Park, Houston, British Columbia
Kind of bright out with the smoke gone.
Why, it’s a Dingo god! It’s OK, though, if you just keep worshiping me, SPHP!
There’s the steelhead pond, over there.
Hey, SPHP! Here’s our big chance! Not a bear in sight. I’ll go nab us a steelhead from the pond.
Too late! Not a single one left! Wonder if the city of Houston knows all their steelheads are gone? Either bears got ’em or people bought ’em. The pond is full of coins.
Sniffs like peppermint, I bet!

Steelhead Park was a lovely break from the road.  Lupe had a fun time sniffing among the brilliant flowers.  Adventure was calling, though.

Time to leave already?

Lupe and SPHP left Steelhead Park at 9:45 AM.  Less than 2 hours later, the Carolina Dog was standing on Babine Lake Road E of Smithers with her next big adventure in sight.

Mount Astlais (L) & The Big Onion (R), Babine Mountains, British Columbia 8-8-18

Links:

Next Adventure                  Prior Adventure

Overlander Falls, Rearguard Falls & Ancient Forest, British Columbia, Canada (8-2-17)

Sunwapta Falls, Athabasca Falls, Overlander Falls & Rearguard Falls in the Canadian Rockies (8-3-16 & 8-4-16)

Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park (7-31-13)

Parker Ridge & the Saskatchewan Glacier, The Icefields Centre & the Athabasca Glacier (7-27-13)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.