Tag: Canada

Peak 5262, Tombstone Territorial Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-22-18)

Day 19 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

8-21-18, 10:44 PM, 32°F – Wind and cold rain continued, as Lupe and SPHP left Eagle Plains ahead of the expected blizzard.  Within the first 10 minutes, two vehicles came the opposite direction, still heading N on the Dempster Highway, on the verge of reaching the safety of Eagle Plains.  After that, there was no traffic at all.  For more than half an hour, the G6 splashed on through countless puddles as the rain came down.  Outside, the temperature never varied.  Always 32°F.11:30 PM, 32°F – The dreaded blizzard had arrived!  Snowing hard, but not sticking to the road yet.  The blowing snow was difficult to stare into, a confusing, ever-changing, pattern of bright white streaks in the headlights against a black as deep as any stormy night anywhere.

Soon snow was clinging to bushes along the highway.  Accumulations of slush started heaping up along the shoulders.  Great sprays of water sent up from potholes sometimes inundated the windshield, momentarily blocking all view of the road before the wipers swept the water away.

Slush spread across the entire road, then turned white.  On all the uphill sections, of which there were many, the traction control warning light started coming on, although the G6 didn’t seem to be slipping too badly yet.  Only a matter of time, though, if the storm continued to rage.

Meanwhile, the G6 plowed along at a fairly steady 25 to 30 mph.  The highway wound up, down, and all around one unseen hill after another.  Fuel economy plunged as the G6 battled increasing accumulations of snow and slush.  Maintaining speed on the uphill runs started to become difficult.

Afraid of how soft the shoulders must be, SPHP drove down the middle of the road.  Virtually nothing could be seen alongside the highway now.  As the snow deepened, SPHP started having a hard time telling where the road even was.  Reflective km markers showed up well, but far too infrequently to be of assistance.

Sooner or later, the G6 wasn’t going to make it up one of these hills.  The prospect of getting stuck in the the blinding snowstorm in the middle of the Dempster Highway in the dead of the night was terrifying.  However, SPHP saw no pullouts where it would be possible to safely get off the road.  Leaving the highway wouldn’t be all that wonderful, either.  No doubt, it would mean being hopelessly snowed-in within no time.

The situation was becoming dire.  Should have stayed at Eagle Plains!  Days ago on the way N, Lupe had stopped at a huge pullout at Ogilvie Ridge.  If the G6 could make it that far, Ogilvie Ridge would at least be a safe place to get off the highway.  In this blizzard, though, SPHP wasn’t sure it would even be possible to recognize the pullout.

Suddenly, there was movement!  A dimly perceived patchwork of light and dark was moving in the same direction as the G6 on the L side of the road.  SPHP caught only a glimpse of it, as the G6 went by.  A huge ghost of a moose!  The American Dingo hadn’t seen a thing.  For miles she had been trying to snooze as the G6 bumped, slipped, and lurched along.

8-22-18, 1:30 AM – Doomed!  Heavy snow.  Blizzard conditions.  A wild wind was whipping the fast accumulating snow into drifts forming on the road.  Huge snowflakes were a blinding white.  Everything else was pitch black.  Navigation was by long poles with reflectors on them that had fortuitously appeared on the L side of the nearly invisible highway a short time ago.

Would have been stuck already, if it hadn’t been for one thing.  There didn’t seem to be any more uphill sections.  For what couldn’t be much longer, the G6 was still moving.  Inside, the Carolina Dog was snoozing peacefully, blissfully unaware of the storm.

1:50 AM –  70 to 75 miles S of Eagle Plains, SPHP caught a glimpse of a pullout on the L.  Passed right on by it before even realizing what it was.  That might have been Ogilvie Ridge!  The road began dropping steadily, even steeply.  Yeah, that confirmed it!  This was Seven Mile hill!

No going back now, but maybe it didn’t matter?  As the G6 lost elevation, conditions were rapidly improving.

2:00 AM –  Luck of the Dingo!  Amazing!  Drove out of it!  Heavy snow was now only a moderate rain.  34°F!  Down in the Ogilvie River valley, the Dempster Highway was sloppy wet, but snow-free.  The G6 bounced along through potholes sending up sprays of water as before.  Passed a rest area at Davies Creek, but didn’t stop.  Windy Pass and North Fork Pass are still ahead.

The rain tapered off before reaching the bridge over the Ogilvie River, but soon after crossing it, the snow started in again on the long approach to Windy Pass.  The adrenaline rush of the white-knuckle drive prior to Ogilvie Ridge was fading.  The weather this far S was no where near as bad as it had been earlier.  Not snowing that hard.  Starting to seem like things are actually under control.

2:56 AM – A huge, level, snow-free pullout had appeared on the R.  Likely a road maintenance area.  Whatever.  Hadn’t made it to Windy Pass yet, but SPHP was weary.  The crisis seemed to be over.  Time to join Lupe in Dingo Dreamland!

9:36 AM, 32°F – A certain well-rested Dingo wanted out.  Fine, fine!  SPHP let her go.  Blizzard?  What blizzard?  No snow here!  Sure enough, Lupe was at a highway maintenance area somewhere close to km 171 on the W side of the Dempster Highway.  Any snow that had fallen here last night had all melted as it hit.

Still no telling what Lupe might find up at Windy Pass, though.  Might be tons of snow up there?  Couldn’t see a thing down here, except the usual fog and mist of the far N.

Had the blizzard been only a bad dream? Despite all the snow she’d seen before falling asleep, Lupe woke up to a snow-free world at a road maintenance area near km 171 of the Dempster Highway.
Another day, another foggy start. Seems like that happens a lot in the Yukon. Of course, the way things had been going last night, it could have been worse. Much worse!

10:01 AM, Windy Pass, km 152.8 – The crisis actually was over.  Lupe had been less than 20 km from Windy Pass.  She arrived to find more fog and mist, but no snow, even up here.  The big ridges S of the pass leading to Windy Pass Peak (5,249 ft.) and Peak 5906 were a little white, but that was it.

Maybe a blizzard was still raging up at Eagle Plains and the Arctic Circle, but the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood had managed a successful escape!

Back at Windy Pass where Lupe had enjoyed such a great day on her exploration of Windy Pass Peak, Distincta Peak & Peak 5906 on the way N. The peaks were all hidden by fog this morning, but there was almost no snow. Photo looks S.

Lupe resumed her snooze at Windy Pass, while SPHP straightened up the G6, cleaned windows, and dealt with a few technical issues.  Then the journey S continued.  What to do next wasn’t entirely clear.  The mist ended, and fog was decreasing as the cloud cover began to lift, but the mountain peaks were still hidden.

Heading up the Blackstone River valley SE of Windy Pass. Photo looks SW.

1:36 PM, 40°F – Lupe and SPHP stopped at the two-tier pullout on the E side of the Dempster Highway SE of Surfbird Mountain (5,300 ft.).  This was a favorite spot, discovered in 2017, where there was a stream and a bubbling pond.

Lunch time!  Chili and chocolate coconut bars were on the menu.  The American Dingo kindly helped out with both, displaying considerable enthusiasm for the project.  Afterwards, she explored among the bushes, and chased tennis balls SPHP threw for her.

SPHP pondered the situation.  Should Loop go on to Dawson City?  She still had more mountains to climb here in Tombstone Territorial Park, but as is so often the case, once again most of the Ogilvie Range was in the clouds.  Surfbird Mountain wasn’t, but Lupe had climbed Surfbird last year.

Maybe it made sense to give Peak 5262 another shot?  Stymied by bogs when Lupe had tried it on the way N nearly a week ago, she hadn’t even made it to the base of the mountain.  However, it had looked like she might have been successful, if only SPHP had led her to the next ridge N instead of the way she’d actually gone.

Peak 5262 was back N, but only a dozen km.  The mountain sat isolated out beyond the rest of the Ogilvie Range.  The sky was looking better in that direction.  If Peak 5262 worked out today, conditions might improve enough so Lupe could climb higher peaks around here tomorrow?

3:09 PM, 39°F, Blackstone River rest stop at km 107.6 – Yeah, coming back for another attempt on Peak 5262 made sense.  It was too late in the day, and the weather wasn’t cooperative enough, to doing anything else.  The only other option would have been to keep driving, and the Carolina Dog was sick of being cooped up in the G6.  SPHP parked at the now familiar rest stop along the East Blackstone River.

The weather was improving as Lupe set out for a second attempt on Peak 5262.  This time, SPHP had her go N along the Dempster Highway far enough to get past all the streams preventing access to the second ridge W of the road.

W of the Dempster Highway starting for Peak 5262. Photo looks W.

Even though the second ridge was a bit higher than the first one, it still wasn’t very high.  Lupe was soon up on top.  From her prior experience with the first ridge, she knew what to expect next.  A long, beautiful, but far more wearying march toward Peak 5262 than a nearly imperceptible slope merited.

The top of the ridge was a vast plain of spongy, tussocky tundra.  On the way W, Lupe sought out minor highs points which might provide firmer footing.  She came to one drainage that forced her to make a detour to the N.  Although the top of the ridge looked flat as a pancake, it was anything but.  Endless, unstable tussocks surrounded by holes made every step an adventure.

The American Dingo persevered, though, making steady progress.  Blue sky was beginning to appear!  This was turning into a fantastic day!  Having seen the lay of the land once before, SPHP was buoyed by hope that Lupe would enjoy success this time around.

Maybe we’re going to make it this time? Looking good so far! Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.

The critical point of the journey came as Lupe drew near the W end of the ridge.  Once she had made it far enough to see the broad saddle area between this low ridge and the base of Peak 5262, it became clear that she needed to go NW staying up on the high ground along the edge as long as possible before dropping down to the saddle.

Getting close to the W end of this ridge now. Photo looks W.
Close to the far NW end of the low ridge. The plan is to head for Peak 5262’s long NE ridge seen beyond Lupe. Photo looks WNW.
A pond near the W end of the ridge Lupe has been traveling. Photo looks SW.

Upon dropping down to the saddle, Lupe discovered small streams and bogs no matter which way she went.  SPHP tussock-hopped past the first bog and small stream, while Lupe simply waded through.

However, getting through all the bogs wasn’t as easy as it seemed.  Even after crossing the broad saddle, Lupe kept coming to more drainages and bogs as the terrain started sloping up again toward the base of Peak 5262.  Luckily, none proved to be insurmountable obstacles.

Peak 5262 was just a big hill!  Surely the American Dingo was going to make it now!  As Looper worked her way up an increasingly steep slope toward Peak 5262’s NE ridge, confidence soared.

On the tundra, beyond the worst of the wetlands. Photo looks NE.
Looking E back in the direction Lupe had come from. The high point at the NW end of the first ridge she had been on is the minor rise (Center) just beyond the foreground.

The NE ridge was still quite a march away.  Lupe kept having to dodge bogs, drainages, and unexpected holes full of water.  The tundra dried out to a degree as the climb steepened, but remained spongy, requiring significant effort.

The beautiful tundra, already sporting fall colors.

Lupe climbed and climbed.  Though the terrain wasn’t all that steep, it was exhausting work.  SPHP kept hoping the tundra would give way to rockier ground, but for a very long way it didn’t.  The Carolina Dog came to a number of high points, but each time hopes that she had reached the NE ridgeline were dashed.

Finally, lanes of firmer ground did appear.  These lanes had a base of very small rocks, the first rocks Lupe had come to on the entire journey thus far.  Low red and gray-green vegetation grew on the rockier terrain, looking just like what Loop had seen a year ago in Alaska when she’d gone on her Stroll to the North Slope Knoll.

The narrow lanes of firmer ground helped tremendously.  SPHP was able to quicken the pace significantly.  Soon Lupe really was up on the NE ridgeline.

Peak 5262 as Lupe nears the NE ridgeline. The backpack sits on the shorter vegetation of the rockier ground. Staying to the R of the drainage seen ahead, Lupe ultimately climbed to the high point directly beyond her from the R. Photo looks SW.

SPHP had expected plenty of rockier terrain up on the NE ridgeline, but that wasn’t what Lupe found.  In fact, the ridgeline wasn’t much of a line at all.  Ahead was a very broad and steeper slope, comprised almost entirely of more deep, spongy tundra.

Peak 5262 had a lovely dusting of snow on top.  The colors of the tundra below were absolutely gorgeous.  However, it was now clear that Lupe wasn’t going to reach any significantly firmer ground until she got way up on Peak 5262’s steepest slopes near the summit.

Having anticipated an easier time on a rocky ridgeline, the trudge higher actually began as a tougher march than before.

Looking back down the NE ridge. Chapman Lake is on the L. Photo looks NE.

No turning back now, though!  Onward!

Up ahead, a long line of bushes grew along a drainage.  Lupe stayed to the R (NW) of it.  However, this drainage split into two separate courses higher up.  Lupe had to cross the smaller channel to the W.  Happily, the smaller channel turned out to be dry, and not a problem.  From then on, there were no real obstacles.  Lupe angled SW toward a high, short ridge to the W, and upon reaching it, completed her ascent by switchbacking up the N face of the mountain.

Even the upper slopes of Peak 5262 turned out not to be rocky, but at least the tundra wasn’t as thick.  Peak 5262 had another surprise in store for Lupe, too.  The dusting of snow near the top of the mountain wasn’t snow at all.  Apparently last night’s blizzard had been an ice storm here.  Freezing rain had coated the tundra with an amazing display of ice.

Where Lupe first reached the ice-encrusted tundra, the ice was melting. Higher up that wasn’t the case.
About to start up the N face of Peak 5262. Lupe is already quite high on the mountain. Photo looks SSW.
An icy display. Far more magnificent specimens were higher up.
Looking down on the Blackstone River valley. Chapman Lake on the R. Photo looks NNE.
Getting there! Last push to the top is dead ahead. Photo looks SW.
An icy wonderland.

The top of Peak 5262 is rounded.  Lupe arrived upon a summit area acres in size.  The true summit was W of where the Carolina Dog came up, and was quite easy to spot.  Not far from the N edge sat a short ridge resembling a marvelously bejeweled mini-pingo.  This little summit ridge was only a few feet higher than the rest of the mountain.

The terrain begins leveling out as Lupe reaches a vast summit region. Photo looks W.
The true summit (Center) comes into view. Photo looks W.
Lupe reaches the wonderfully ice-encrusted true summit of Peak 5262. Photo looks S.
At the beautifully decorated true summit. Photo looks W.
Lupe on Peak 5262. Photo looks W.

When Lupe had first reached the NE ridge, large regions of blue sky had been expanding to the N.  For a short while the Carolina Dog had been in sunshine.  Now, though, the weather was clearly deteriorating.  Couldn’t have been any more than 32°F.  The incredible crystalline icy display was not melting up here.  The slight N breeze felt cold.

Views from isolated, remote Peak 5262 were tremendous!  Higher peaks were in the distance in many directions, but their summits were lost in clouds that already covered the whole sky.  Fog was spreading to the S, although Surfbird Mountain (5,300 ft.) was still in sight.

To celebrate Loopster’s peakbagging success, SPHP shared 3 chocolate coconut bars with her.  They were frozen so stiffly that it was hard to break off chunks.

High atop Peak 5262, the darkening sky, cold breeze, and surrounding vast, desolate solitude produced a sudden sense of gloom and danger.  It was absolutely incredible up here, yet SPHP grew uneasy.  Lupe was a long way from the G6.  Mountains were disappearing from the horizon.  The cloud cover seemed to be closing in.  If the morning’s fog returned, it would be easy to get lost.

Would have been fun to have the luxury of letting a sublime hour or two go by up on Peak 5262, but it didn’t seem like Lupe could afford to linger up here too long.  Might as well have a quick look around, though.  Loop ventured out to the far W end of the summit area.  The Blackstone River was in view, even if the mountains weren’t.

The Blackstone River from the W edge of Peak 5262. Photo looks SW.
Looking SW up the Blackstone River valley with help from the telephoto lens.
View to the W with help from the telephoto lens.
The top of Peak 5262 from the W edge. The true summit is the little rise seen directly beyond Lupe. Photo looks E.

The scenes were all impressively forlorn and desolate, but the clouds weren’t an awful lot higher than Peak 5262 now.  Lupe returned to the true summit for another brief stay and final look around.

Near the true summit (L) again. Photo looks SE.
Gorgeous now, but it wouldn’t have been much fun to have been up here last night!
Looking WNW.
The Blackstone River valley from the N edge of Peak 5262. Photo looks NNW.
Chapman Lake (Center). Photo looks NE.

On the return, Lupe varied the first part of her route.  Instead of going back down the steep N face, she followed the E ridge, which provided a more gradual descent.

Starting down, but still along the N edge. Lupe had originally come up the rather steep slope beyond her from the L. Chapman Lake is on the L. Lomond Lake is far away on the R. Photo looks NE.
Lupe began her descent going down the E ridge (R). Photo looks E.
Lomond Lake (Center) in the distance. The flat ridge Lupe had started out on is the slightly higher ground just L of the ponds on the R. Photo looks ENE.
On the E ridge. The G6 is parked down by the river just about straight beyond Lupe. Photo looks E with help from the telephoto lens.

As soon as the American Dingo realized that she was actually on her way down, she became quite energized.  Lupe ran and ran!  She sniffed and explored, displaying great stamina and enthusiasm.  The descent was a lot easier.  SPHP made much faster progress.  The spongy tundra merely served as a cushion, instead of an impediment.  From above, SPHP was better at picking out drier, more efficient routes.

The E ridge soon curved NE creating a bowl to the W.  This bowl was the origin of the last two drainages Lupe had come to on the way up.  To get back to the lower portion of the NE ridge, SPHP led Loop down into the bowl so she could stay far enough W to bypass the deeper drainage.  By the time Lupe made it to the lower end of the bowl, she had picked up her former route.

The long march still ahead was merely a retracement of what had been done before.  Lupe eventually turned ESE, leaving the NE ridgeline.  As the slope decreased, the labor of traveling the tussocky tundra returned.  Back to dodging bogs, streams, and wet holes.

Despite the effort required, the return was a beautiful time.  Lupe was happy, roaming free in an unspoiled world.  SPHP was thrilled she had finally made it to Peak 5262!  The sky remained overcast, but it wasn’t nearly so cold out as it had been back up on the mountain.  The brooding clouds never came down far enough to threaten the lowlands with fog.

Though always challenging to move through, the tundra was amazing.  Pristine beauty in all directions, including at one’s paws or feet.  Lupe discovered a pink blossom so rare no others like it had been seen on the whole long journey.  She found an ancient caribou antler, and learned that even excellent dental health isn’t everything.

One in a zillion! A rare pink blossom like no other Lupe had seen on the entire journey.
Roaming free on the way back.
Dental health is important, but it isn’t everything. Someone died with perfect teeth!

The morning’s mist and fog hadn’t held much promise, but Lupe’s ascent of lonely Peak 5262 had been a marvelous journey and sweet success!  (9:38 PM, 33°F)

On Peak 5262, Tombstone Territorial Park, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-22-18

Links:

Next Adventure                     Prior Adventure

Tombstone Territorial Park Map

The Dempster Highway Travelogue

Surfbird Mountain, Ogilvie Range, Tombstone Territorial Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (9-4-17)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Lupe’s Stay at the Arctic Ocean, Tuktoyaktuk, Northwest Territories, Canada (8-20-18 & 8-21-18)

Days 17 & 18 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

8-20-18, 6:05 AM, 42°F, Pingo Canadian Landmark – Colder this morning, with a uniformly gray sky.  Lupe had scarcely seen the sun yesterday, and today didn’t look to be any different.  A light, but chilly W breeze blew across Tareoknitok Lagoon from over by Ibyuk and Split Pingos.  Lupe watched as fog moved in and swallowed them whole.

Might as well snooze a bit longer.

A while later, Loop was awake again.  No longer foggy, but nothing else had changed.  Still overcast, still 42°F with a breeze.  Today was the only whole day Lupe was going to get to spend in Tuktoyaktuk.  If she wanted to make the most of it, the Carolina Dog had better get going.  SPHP started up the G6.  Within minutes, Lupe was heading back into Tuk.

Lupe had first arrived in Tuktoyaktuk late yesterday afternoon, so she’d already seen some of the main highlights, including, of course, the Arctic Ocean, the main reason everyone comes to Tuk.  Today she was going to look around town a bit more carefully before enjoying another lovely romp along the ocean.

Pingo Canadian Landmark, where Lupe had spent the night, is 5 km from town near the “Welcome to Tuktoyaktuk, Land of the Pingos” sign by Tareoknitok Lagoon, the first part of the Arctic Ocean seen on the way into Tuk.  The next part of Tuktoyaktuk that had come into view was also the worst.  Highway 10 goes right by the unsightly Tuktoyaktuk dump.

Lupe reached Tuktoyaktuk yesterday afternoon. The first indication she had arrived was this welcoming sign by Tareoknitok Lagoon, 5 km prior to actually reaching the village.
The worst comes first! Shortly after reaching the Welcome to Tuktoyaktuk sign, the highway goes past this unsightly dump. Ugh!

After the landfill, though, things get somewhat better.  The next thing Lupe saw was a curious one, a cove packed with driftwood.  Surprising, since no trees grow anywhere near Tuktoyaktuk, but there is a logical explanation.  The driftwood originates from the giant Mackenzie River to the W, and is brought in by ocean currents, wind, and waves.

Driftwood packed into a cove. All the driftwood near Tuk originates from the enormous Mackenzie River to the W.

For a few km beyond the driftwood-laden cove, Highway 10 winds past a number of widely scattered industrial sites.  Whether these installations are somehow connected with an energy industry down on its luck, or serve some other purpose wasn’t entirely clear.  It all reminded SPHP of what Lupe had seen a year ago in Deadhorse, Alaska, but on a much smaller, less prosperous scale.

One of the scattered industrial sites on the way into Tuktoyaktuk.

This building reminded SPHP of some of the hotels where oilfield workers live that Lupe had seen in Deadhorse, Alaska near Prudhoe Bay in 2017.

After passing the industrial outskirts, Highway 10 goes by a big pond as it enters the village of Tuktoyaktuk.  Bob’s gas station (apparently the only gas station in town) was on the R shortly after going by the pond.

Highway 10 as it is about to enter Tuktoyaktuk.
Bob’s gas station, critical infrastructure as far as SPHP and the G6 were concerned, was on the R as Lupe entered town. At $1.68/L Canadian, prices were actually a little lower here than they had been in Inuvik.

Tuktoyaktuk has over 1,000 residents, a number which might grow with the increase in tourism made possible by Highway 10, the new all-season road from Inuvik that opened in November, 2017.  Highway 10 was how Lupe had made it to Tuk!

Certainly, the much improved access provided by Highway 10 increases the potential for big changes as Tuk gets better known and businesses consider investing.  It was still early in that game, though.  In August 2018, as Lupe toured it today, Tuktoyaktuk still looked like an isolated Arctic village.  Streets were all dirt.  Homes were simple, and up on stilts.  Small yards were all dirt, gravel, or natural tundra.  Assorted pickup trucks, cars, snowmobiles and ATV’s were parked outside.

Typical homes in Tuktoyaktuk.

One of the attractions Lupe hadn’t visited in Tuktoyaktuk yesterday was the “Pingo with a Trail”, which was on the L shortly after passing Bob’s gas station.  That was something the American Dingo could do!  Looper was all for the idea.

The Pingo with a Trail might have been 40 feet high.  Lupe scampered to the top in only a minute or two.  A green bench provided a restful spot from which to take in the surprisingly good views of Tuktoyaktuk and general surroundings.  The Arctic Ocean was in sight, too.

Looper was all for visiting this “Pingo with a Trail“! More than 1350 pingos are in the Tuktoyaktuk region. This modest one was right in town, and provided good views.
By the green bench at the summit of the “Pingo with a Trail”. Photo looks E.
Ibyuk Pingo (L) and Split Pingo (Center) from the Pingo with a Trail. Photo looks SSW.
Looking W toward the Arctic Ocean over part of Tuktoyaktuk.
Looking toward the N end of Tuktoyaktuk. The Arctic Ocean is in the distance on the L. Tuktoyaktuk Harbor is on the R. Photo looks N.
House at the base of the Pingo with a Trail.

After visiting the Pingo with a Trail, Lupe and SPHP drove around Tuk a bit.  It was Monday, and traffic consisted mainly of white pickup trucks.  Lupe went past some sod houses, but they didn’t strike her fancy.  In the evening yesterday, there had been a well-attended baseball game going on in a muddy field.  Lots of kids and dogs had been out and about.  Near the ocean, children had been bouncing on a trampoline.

Not too much was going on today, though, perhaps because it was colder out.  No boats were out on the ocean, or in the harbor.  Tuktoyaktuk has an airport, but Lupe hadn’t seen any planes land or take off.  Some of the larger buildings in Tuk were in better condition than most of the homes, but the Carolina Dog couldn’t go into any of them.

Lupe and SPHP soon wound up at the park near the visitor information center at the far N end of Tuktoyaktuk.  This park was where the tourist facilities were along the Arctic Ocean.  Loop sniffed and explored while SPHP made lunch at one of the picnic tables.

Lunch time at the Arctic Ocean.

Several pickup trucks with campers were around.  SPHP chatted with three missionaries for a while.  Lupe met Peter, a fellow adventurer and explorer.  Peter was from the Czech Republic, and had spent the last 2.5 months bicycling here solo clear across Canada from New Brunswick!  From Tuktoyaktuk, he planned on continuing S into the United States and Latin America.  Mind-boggling!

The sun never appeared.  The gray sky matched the gray sea.  A steady stream of tourists came by, but the breeze was a bit chilly.  Many didn’t stay long.  Photo ops by the Arctic Ocean, a few minutes looking at the waves, and they were on their way.

It was fun for Lupe to have seen more of Tuktoyaktuk today, but the main attraction, and whole reason the Carolina Dog had come all this way, was to see the Arctic Ocean.  After lunch was over and done with, and there was a lull in people happening by, it was time to repeat the leisurely stroll Loop had enjoyed yesterday evening along the ocean.

The possibly stray dog that Lupe had met yesterday, had come around during lunch seeking handouts again.  By now, SPHP had thought long and hard, and had come up with the clever nickname “Tuk” for her.  Tuk decided to join Lupe and SPHP.

By the cemetery on Beaufort Road a little S of the park at the N end of Tuktoyaktuk. Photo looks W.

Abandoning the G6 at the park for now, Lupe, Tuk and SPHP headed S on Beaufort Road.  After passing the cemetery, Loop led the way back to the ocean behind an apartment building to the W.  A short trek S brought her to the same nice stretch of shoreline along Kugmallit Bay that Lupe had visited yesterday.

Not another soul out here.  The beach wasn’t terribly long, so there was no rush at all.  Walking slowly, SPHP gazed out at the restless, remote sea at the top of the world, while enjoying the whole incredible experience of actually being at the Arctic Ocean.  Loop and Tuk ran and explored, sometimes together, sometimes going their own separate ways.

Lupe on her second romp along Kugmallit Bay since arriving in Tuktoyaktuk. Photo looks SSW.
At the Arctic Ocean. A dream come true!
Lupe and “Tuk”, the possibly stray dog who often showed up at the park to panhandle. Ibyuk Pingo (L) and Split Pingo (Center) in the distance. Photo looks SSW.
“Tuk” with Split Pingo (R) in the background.

“Tuk” eventually realized this trek wasn’t likely to result in a meal.  Lupe and SPHP were left alone.  At the S end of the beach, Loopster followed the shoreline E along a sheltered cove as far as possible before reaching private property, going a little farther than she had yesterday.

At the end of the beach trek. Photo looks S.

On the way back, a lone seagull came by, and landed on the ocean.  SPHP picked out another rock as a souvenir to add to Lupe’s collection.  Waves kept rolling in.  A little more than an hour after Loop’s second splendid journey along the Arctic Ocean began, it was over, too.

A lone seagull came by.
Turning back near the end of the trek. Photo looks WSW.

Later, at the park at the N end of Tuktoyaktuk, SPHP heated up clam chowder for dinner.  Loop didn’t care for it, preferring Ritz crackers.  She must not have been too hungry, as she scarcely touched her Alpo.

“Tuk” reappeared on another panhandling run, and this time was in luck.  SPHP gave Tuk some of Lupe’s Taste of the Wild, a whole can of Alpo, and a couple different types of treats Loop had recently received from Pupjoy – Lamb Airy Bites and Coconut Shrimp.  Tuk inhaled it all in seconds, looking like 5 times that much would have been preferred.  SPHP wondered whether Tuk had a home?  Hard to contemplate what might soon be in store for Tuk, if not.  Summer was practically over.

The tide was coming in.  Lupe and SPHP went over to the spit of big rocks at the N end of the park to watch the ocean gradually submerge formerly exposed seabed.  More pingos were in sight on a distant shore.

At the N end of the park watching the tide come in. Photo looks NE.
Several pingos looking merely like small bumps are strung out along the distant shore. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

Evening.  Half a dozen pickup trucks with campers were around now, evidently here for the night, but hardly anyone was outside.  Along the W edge of the park, just beyond the picnic tables, an embankment of large dark rocks protected the shoreline from the waves of Kugmallit Bay.  Scattered among these rocks were large amounts of driftwood.

The ocean breeze was cool, and getting cooler.  A fire would be nice!  Lupe came along to sniff, while SPHP gathered driftwood.  A fire was soon going.  SPHP slowly nursed it into a larger and larger bonfire, until it actually threw off some decent heat, if one stood close enough.

A woman came by selling moccasins she had made by hand out of moose hide and seal skin.  She was friendly and chatty, but soon discovered she had forgotten to bring any moccasins with her.  She left to go back home to get them.  After a while, she did return.  The moccasins were darling, skillfully made, but for little children or babies.  The woman never said how much she wanted for them.  She did say she could make 2.5 pairs per day.  When SPHP didn’t have a use for them, she moved on looking for someone else to talk to.

After a while, a fog moved in, and it got noticeably colder.  Lupe was ready to call it a day.  SPHP let her into the G6, and drew her blankie over her.  The Carolina Dog settled in for an Arctic Ocean snooze, and did not return.

SPHP kept the bonfire going, while watching and listening to the ocean.  No one else was out now.  The fog lifted, and it got a little warmer again.  Off to the N, a long line of brighter sky appeared.  For several hours it drew closer, but never arrived.  The fire devoured large quantities of driftwood.  Poles 5 feet long, and 7 or 8 inches thick, disappeared.

By midnight, nearly all light had faded from the sky.  Weary, and a bit cold from the wind, SPHP doused the fire.  What an evening it had been, though!  Think of it, only 1,426 miles from the top of the world!  The rest of the night was spent at desolate Pingo Canadian Landmark.8-21-18, 7:30 AM, 33°F – Tiny snowflakes filled the air as SPHP drove back to the park at the N end of Tuktoyaktuk for the last time.  The snow was already over and done with when Lupe arrived to find Peter having breakfast in the park’s open air covered shelter.  SPHP chatted with him, while Peter gave Loop a pat.  He was about to leave Tuktoyaktuk on his bicycle to begin the next leg of his incredible journey to Latin America.

Wishing Peter good luck and safe travels, Lupe and SPHP set off for a third and final stroll along the Arctic Ocean.  The morning breeze was quite cold, but Lupe made the whole wonderful trek again.  For the first time since she had arrived in Tuk, patches of blue sky could be seen.  The bracing journey was over far too soon, but SPHP did remember to pick out a third souvenir stone from Kugmallit Bay.

Lupe on her final stroll along the Arctic Ocean. Photo looks N.

Not anxious to depart, breakfast was clam chowder again at the same picnic table at the park at the N end of Tuk.  SPHP then caught up the trip journal while still enjoying a view of the Arctic Ocean.

10:55 AM, 33°F – What a joyful, incredible experience it had been!   The time had come, though, for Lupe to say good-bye, most likely forever, to the Arctic Ocean and Tuktoyaktuk.  SPHP was so glad she had come!  Lupe got up on a couple of rocks for photos.

By the Arctic Ocean.
A little blue sky appears at the end of Lupe’s stay in Tuktoyaktuk.

And then, for a few final moments, The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood stood poised in the chill breeze on the last of the big rocks she would ever be on next to the Arctic Ocean.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood at the Arctic Ocean.

Savored briefly, the moment passed.

Puppy, ho!  Onward!

For a few minutes, tiny snowflakes again filled the air as SPHP drove out of Tuktoyaktuk after fueling the G6.  The American Dingo was leaving the Land of the Pingos!  New adventures lay ahead, but the Arctic Ocean was an adventure never to be forgotten.

20 km from Tuk, Lupe saw Peter again!  He was pedaling hard, going fast, and waved as the G6 slowed beside him for a few seconds.  Lupe barked.  SPHP waved back.  Peter was smiling as the G6 re-accelerated.  For a few seconds he lingered – receding, then vanishing, in the rear view mirror.

The American Dingo was now destined to repeat her long journey N in reverse.  Cruising S on Highway 10 to Inuvik, the plan was to head back to the Richardson Mountains on the Yukon border.  Hopefully, the weather would have improved since Lupe had left Wright Pass three days ago.  Maybe tomorrow the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood could begin climbing a few of the mountains she had skipped on her way N due to poor weather?

11:49 AM, 35°F, Hwy 10 – The silvery Eskimo Lakes, looking like a vast, lonely sea, were on the horizon.  Worth a quick stop!  Lupe could see a few small hills near the lakes.  Perhaps pingos SPHP hadn’t noticed on the way N?  Quite likely.

Approaching the Eskimo Lakes again, this time on the way S.
Eskimo Lakes from Highway 10 with help from the telephoto lens.

2:55 PM, 42°F – Along the Dempster Highway S of Inuvik, SPHP stopped at the Tithegeh Chii Vitaii viewpoint again.  Loop needed a break from the G6.  This time she took the shorter trail to the R at the first fork.  The trail led to a viewpoint from which the Carolina Dog would be able to see Campbell Lake.

Lupe never made it to the end of the trail.  A large group of people was ahead of her lingering on a big deck at the viewpoint.  Since Loop had seen Campbell lake before, there was no sense in disturbing them.  Lupe did go far enough to be able to see part of Campbell Lake again, this time on a prettier day.

Campbell Lake, S of Inuvik, on a prettier day than the first time Lupe had been here. Photo looks NW.

4:53 PM, 44°F, Mackenzie River – At the Mackenzie River, there was a bit of a wait for the MV Louis Cardinal ferry.

The MV Louis Cardinal approaches from the village of Tsiigehtchic. Photo looks SE.

Once aboard the ferry, SPHP recognized a pickup with a camper that Lupe had seen back at Tuktoyaktuk yesterday.  SPHP had spoken briefly with the owner, Steve, who was from Alberta.  Somewhat surprisingly, Steve appeared outside the G6 on the way over the Mackenzie River.  He had important news – a warning, actually.

Steve said he had been amazed to discover that he had internet service on his phone here.  He’d just finished checking the weather report.  A blizzard was forecast for Eagle Plains and the Richardson Mountains tonight!  80 to 100 kph (50 – 60 mph) winds with 1 to 2 meters (3 – 6 feet) of snow expected!  Thought SPHP might like to know.  Steve said he was going to try to get to Eagle Plains this evening before the storm hit.  At least there were facilities there where he could ride it out.

Gah!  Suddenly, that changed everything, didn’t it?  Weather forecasts are notoriously over-hyped these days, but even so, if only a fraction of what was predicted came to pass, it spelled the end of any peakbagging hopes Lupe had in the Richardson Mountains.  More than a few inches of snow, and the G6 wouldn’t be able to handle it, either.

Summer was about to end.  Who knew what getting stranded out here might mean?  Big trouble, and a bigger adventure than Loop and SPHP had bargained for, that much was certain.  SPHP thought about all the rain that had fallen the night Lupe had spent at the Arctic Circle on the way N.  A regular monsoon.  If it had been only a few degrees colder out, a meter or two of snow would have fallen back then, easy!

So, as Steve’s pickup pulled away from the ferry after crossing the Mackenzie River, the race to beat the storm was on.  Plans demolished, suddenly the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood’s new goal was to flee the true Arctic as fast as possible!  Steve was right, she at least had to get to the protection of Eagle Plains.

6:37 PM, 41°F, Peel River – The Dempster Highway had become slick and wet shortly before reaching the Peel River, but the ferry was ready and waiting to go when Lupe arrived.  She was across in practically no time, heading for the Richardson Mountains.

7:10 PM, 35°F, Midway Lake – The road is damp, but not as wet as back at the Peel River.  The temperature has been dropping, however, and high points ahead are in fog.  So far, overall visibility is still good.

7:22 PM, 34°F, 35 km to Wright Pass – Up in the fog now, heading into the first of the Richardson Mountains.

7:43 PM, 32°F – Visibility dropped to as little as 100 yards for a short while, but the road then dropped down into a valley where a rushing stream was on the L.  Passed 2 guys on heavily-laden bicycles pedaling hard uphill against the wind.  They are still heading N!  Wondering how Peter is doing?  Maybe he is in Inuvik by now?

Having lost enough elevation to escape the fog, visibility is decent again.  More of the Richardson Mountains are ahead, their summits cloaked in fog.  The highway is merely damp.

Out of the fog for the moment near the Richardson Mountains.

7:55 PM, 35°F – Can see Wright Pass ahead!  Peak 3850 immediately to the S of the pass is in view part of the time, too, plus part of the start of the route to Mount Sittichinli (5,165 ft.) to the N.  Seems like such a shame that Lupe is going to have to shoot straight on over the pass to continue the journey S, but the forecast is simply too dire to ignore.

Approaching Wright Pass (L of Center), the border with the Yukon Territory. Peak 3850 is on the L (S) side of the pass. Photo looks SW.
Wright Pass (Center) from the NE with help from the telephoto lens.

8:14 PM, 32°F, Wright Pass – A 30 mph wind is blowing out of the NE over Wright Pass.  Only a few minutes ago, Peak 3850 had been visible, but it’s completely hidden by fog now.  Too bad, but none of these peaks are going to happen.  Lupe must press on.  She is already most of the way through the Richardson Mountains now, and can begin her descent down the W side of the range.

Good-bye Northwest Territories, hello Yukon!

Loop takes a stretch W of the Richardson Mountains shortly after going over Wright Pass. Lupe never did get to see much of the Richardson Mountains. Just as foggy now as when she was on her way N.

8:01 PM, 35°F, Rock River campground – Gained an hour upon entering the Yukon Territory at Wright Pass.  Out of the mountains, and heading S.  Stopped briefly at Lupe’s favorite No. 6 spot at the Rock River campground, site of the great 2018 Yukon Territory Squirrel Rush not so ago.  Gave Loop her dinner.  Cleaned windows and headlights.  Onward!

8:29 PM, 33°F – Nearly due W of Mount Hare (4,070 ft.), yet another peak in the Richardson Mountains that Lupe never got to see, much less climb.  30 mph wind and light rain.  Refreshingly brisk outside, but only for a minute, then it’s back into the G6!  The road is a pothole mess, but not as wet, and actually in somewhat better condition than when Lupe was headed N.  No blizzard has materialized so far.

Due W of Mount Hare somewhere along in here. Photo looks SE.

10:04 AM, 32°F, Eagle Plains – Apparently, some things never change.  It was raining steadily by the time Lupe went past the Arctic Circle again.  The Dempster Highway was one pothole after another, each jarring jolt launching a sudden spray of dirty water up over the G6.  The windows were a complete mess, especially on Lupe’s side, but SPHP kept driving slowly onward.

Getting close to the Arctic Circle again on the way S.

The road was super slick going down into and back up out of the Eagle River valley, but the G6 finally made it to civilization at Eagle Plains.

After fueling the G6, SPHP went into the Eagle Plains Hotel.  Restaurant closed for the night, but the bar was open.  No rooms left, booked solid.  Could park at the campground for $20.  No snow yet, but 32°F outside, raining, and yeah, the forecast was abysmal for the next three days.  Blizzard due to arrive any time now.

Steve from Alberta, who had given the initial warning about the weather back at the Mackenzie River, appeared.  He had been able to drive faster in his pickup, and had made it to Eagle Plains a while ago.  Steve said he was going to hang out at the campground here overnight, and wait to see what tomorrow would bring.  Another guy said he had just gotten in from Tombstone Territorial Park.  The weather was worse down there – heavy rain when he’d left some hours ago.

Decision time.  Wait here where there were facilities, and see what the morrow would bring, likely getting snowed in at Eagle Plains, or … ?

Or, what?  Try to beat the storm and get all the way back to pavement at the start of the Dempster Highway?  Probably impossible, and would that even do any good?

Maybe.  SPHP thanked Steve from Alberta for the blizzard warning, then went back out into the storm to join Lupe in the G6.  Still 32°F, and still just raining.  Not even completely dark out yet.  SPHP turned the key.  The G6 lit up, and sprang to life.

The adventures just keep coming, don’t they Loopster?

No room at the inn, SPHP?

Nope.  No vacancy.  Sorry about that.

The Carolina Dog heaved a great sigh, and stared out at the long, wet road ahead.  A room would have been nice.

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The Dempster Highway Travelogue

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