Mastodon Dome, Alaska (8-4-23)

Days 12 & 13 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-3-23, 8:31 PM, Eagle Summit Wayside – After writing for nearly 2.5 hours, SPHP put the pen down.

Trip journal’s caught up, Loopster.  Want to take a sniff up to the first hill along the Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail for a look at tomorrow’s objective?

Having been stuck in the RAV4 practically all day during the long drive from Mount Fairplay to Fairbanks, then E along the Steese Highway, the American Dingo responded enthusiastically.

Thought you’d never ask, SPHP!

About to set off for the first hill (Center) along the Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail. Photo looks WSW.

Didn’t take Lupe long to get up the first hill.  The view toward the NW was the most interesting and encouraging.

There’s Porcupine Dome (4,915 ft.), SPHP!  Remember being up there last year, and the spectacular sunset from Pinnell Mountain (4,934 ft.) that evening?

Sure do, Loop!  You should have gotten to climb Porcupine Dome a second time the next day, if that frigid fog and rain hadn’t move in overnight while we snoozed in your tiny house.

Don’t remind me!  That was a miserable trek back, SPHP.  I got soaked in that cold mist.

Pinnell Mountain (L), Peak 4350 (L of Center), Porcupine Dome (R of Center). Photo looks NW.

Despite this evening’s clouds, getting soaked seemed to be the least of Lupe’s worries this year.  The far N was in a severe drought.  Scarcely a drop of rain anywhere!  Wildfire smoke first encountered in British Columbia had driven Lupe out of the Yukon only yesterday, and today’s drive in Alaska had been through smoke for hundreds of miles.

This afternoon, the smoke had been especially bad near the Tanana River on the way to Fairbanks.  Only once well E of Fairbanks along the Steese Highway had there been any relief.  Happily, for the first time in many days, the air had been perfectly clear at Twelvemile Wayside.  The clean air toward Porcupine Dome was truly a beautiful sight.

However, there still hadn’t been a drop of rain, and smoke wasn’t all that far away.  Even now, looking SE toward Mastodon Dome (4,418 ft.), a certain amount of haze was present.

Mastodon Dome (R). Photo looks SE.

Hope the smoke isn’t any worse tomorrow, SPHP.

Me too, Looper.  Good chance it will be, though.  The W wind’s supposed to push the smoke this way.  Nothing we can do about it, except wait and see.  Want to go a little farther?

It’s a beautiful evening, SPHP.  Let’s do it!

Taking the short spur trail back down to the main one, Lupe then went as far as the next big, barren hill to the NW.  This gently rounded hill was almost featureless other than a small rocky ridge just W of the trail.  The Carolina Dog scrambled up for a look around before turning back.

Peak 4350 (Center), Porcupine Dome (R). Photo looks NW.

The sun still hadn’t set, so Lupe returned briefly to the first hill on the way back to the Eagle Summit Wayside.  The RAV4 was visible as a tiny blue dot down at the parking lot.  A big plateau was on the opposite side of the Steese Highway.  That was Eagle Summit (4,000 ft.), first objective along her journey to Mastodon Dome tomorrow, smoke permitting.

Back on the first hill shortly before sunset. Pinnell Mountain (L), Peak 4350 (L of Center), Porcupine Dome (R of Center). Photo looks NW.
Eagle Summit Wayside (L of Center), Eagle Summit (R). Photo looks ENE.

8-4-23, 6:34 AM, Eagle Summit Wayside – Incredible!  A darkly overcast sky, especially to the S & W, and mist on the windshield.  Lupe left the RAV4 to sniff the air, SPHP following.

Sheesh!  Looks like rain!  Last thing I was expecting, Loop.  I was afraid the air would be thick with smoke again this morning.

This is great news, SPHP!  Let’s hope for a monsoon to put the fires out.

One extreme to the next, aye, Loopster?  No, you’re right, rain would be a real blessing.  Can use all we can get at the moment.

As if on command, a light rain commenced.  Lupe leapt back into the RAV4.

Mastodon Dome will have to wait, SPHP.  I’m going back to sleep.

I’ll meet you in Dingo Dreamland, Looper.

8-4-23, 8:26 AM, 55ºF, Eagle Summit Wayside – A big patch of blue sky was over by Porcupine Dome.  Still overcast and gray elsewhere, but not as darkly as before.  Sadly, the rain hadn’t amounted to much.

Mastodon Dome time, SPHP!

So it is, Sweet Puppy!  Let me finish getting the pack ready, and we’ll be off.

Eagle Summit (L) and Mastodon Dome (far R) from the Eagle Summit Wayside. Photo looks SSE.

Near the end of the short hike down to the Steese Highway from the Eagle Summit Wayside, an odd white metal shed sat off to the L.  Very sturdy, it appeared to be some sort of refrigeration or cold storage unit.  Curious, SPHP turned the handle and looked inside.

By the odd, white shed.

What’s in there, SPHP?

Only a few scraps of lumber, and graffiti on the walls, Loopster.

That’s it?  Nothing worthwhile?

Actually, there is, Loop.  The graffiti includes a poem called “Windy Trail”.

Let’s hear it, SPHP.

Windy Trail

Scat scattered on a windy trail.

A yellow flower from a rainy vale.

The alpine ridge proves life frail.

Summits seem to sing and wail.

Windy voices telling a tale?

Or nature’s reminder it will prevail.

Life back home tends to pale,

Every time I’m on this windy trail.

Friday, August 13, 1993 – GSM

So, what do you think of it, Loopster?

Not exactly The Raven by Edgar Allen Poe, but I like it, SPHP.

Me, too!  Certainly better than I could do.  Just think – another 9 days and “Windy Trails” will be 30 years old!  Lots of people must have seen it by now.  Well, being way out here in rural Alaska, at least a few.

Post it to my blog and GSM will become famous, SPHP!

Hah!  Maybe.  A lot of good it will do GSM, anyway.  Probably dead by now.

The fate of many an author, SPHP.  After creating a masterpiece, it’s death first, fame later.

I know the feeling, Looper.

Regardless of the merits or faults of “Windy Trail”, it was time to move on.  Reaching the Steese Highway, Lupe followed it a short distance NE to where a muddy lane left the highway at the base of Eagle Summit’s NW slope.  Crossing the ditch along this lane, the American Dingo started up.

On the Steese Highway shortly before leaving it at the white posts ahead on the R. Photo looks NE.
Ascending Eagle Summit’s NW slope. Photo looks SE.

8-4-23, 9:09 AM, Eagle Summit (4,000 ft.) – Gaining 300 feet of elevation during a steady, relatively steep climb up the featureless tundra-covered slope, Lupe reached the edge of a vast summit plain.  A loose cairn sat only a little S of where she’d come up.  Investigation revealed nothing of interest other than the view NW back toward the Eagle Summit Wayside, with Peak 4350 and Porcupine Dome (4,915 ft.) beyond.

Blue sky was spreading quite rapidly in that direction, although it was still cloudy everywhere else.  Despite the early morning rain showers, a layer of smoke was visible draped over the mountains, brought in by a 10 mph breeze out of the W.

Hill Lupe visited yesterday evening (L), Peak 4350 (Center), Porcupine Dome (R). Eagle Summit Wayside (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

The plain wasn’t completely flat.  The highest ground on Eagle Summit was clearly toward the E, so Lupe ventured over that way.  She found nothing at all here, except a view of a series of barren, blue gray hills and ridges softened by haze.

Heading toward the highest ground on Eagle Summit. Photo looks ESE.
The view from Eagle Summit’s true summit. Photo looks ESE.

Not a tree or bush on any of those hills, SPHP.  It all looks so vast and empty, like we could keep going forever!

Many of the valleys are forested, Loop, but we’re above treeline.  Mastodon Dome has been on your list of possibilities for several years now.  I used to wonder how hard it would be to wander through the forest for miles to get to it.  Then, when we finally came here last year and visited Porcupine Dome and Pinnell Mountain, I realized there was nothing to this.  We start out already in the alpine, and enjoy sweeping views every step of the way!

Makes for an easy, scenic romp, SPHP!  Plus, it ought to be a cinch to spot any mastodons that come sauntering along our route.

Indubitably!  I’m really looking forward to seeing an enormous herd of mastodons.  Hope we don’t run into any saber-tooth tigers, though!

Don’t sweat it, SPHP.  You’re traveling with a saber-toothed Dingo!

Not sure those little canines qualify as saber teeth, Looper.

Oh, really?  Here, let me bite you, SPHP.  Then tell me what you think.

Uh, no.  Kind of you to offer, but I’ll pass.  However, you are now officially in charge of dispensing with any saber-tooth tigers we run into.

Mastodon Dome was already in sight, still more than 4 miles SSE as the crow flies.  Without further ado, Lupe trotted S, sniffing and roaming as she pleased across the Eagle Summit plain.

Near the S end of this vast plateau, the American Dingo came across an old jeep trail, apparently a continuation of the muddy track where Lupe had left the Steese Highway.  The jeep trail headed SE down to the first of 3 broad saddles she would cross on the way to Mastodon Dome.  During this first descent, nearly all of the elevation gained while climbing Eagle Summit was lost again.

Near the S end of Eagle Summit. Mastodon Dome (R of Center). Photo looks SSE.
A glimpse of the first big saddle (L of Center) ahead. Photo looks SE.
Checking for mastodons and saber tooth tigers. None yet! Mastodon Dome (R). Photo looks SE.
On the old jeep trail, heading down to the first saddle. Photo looks SE.
Steepest part of the descent. Photo looks ESE.

Crossing the big saddle, part of the jeep trail was muddy again, with ruts full of standing water.  Abandoning the road, SPHP avoided the goopiest stretches, simply venturing over the tundra.  Fortunately, no large boggy regions were encountered, although things might have been different if this hadn’t been such a hot, dry summer.

Looking back at the SE end of Eagle Summit (Center & R) after crossing the saddle. Photo looks NW.

Once across this first saddle. the jeep trail began climbing the next big ridge.  The rate of climb was pretty easy, and got even easier once Lupe regained some of her lost elevation.  The terrain nearly leveled out for a while.  More muddy stretches appeared along the road, although most of it was fine.

Heading up the next huge ridge. Photo looks SSE.

The road eventually curved SW.  Beyond a flat section, it climbed to a more elevated portion of the plateau.  Once on top, the jeep trail then turned S, by-passing HP4110.  Not wanting to miss the highest spot along this part of the journey, Lupe left the road to pay HP4110 a brief visit.

There had been occasional glimpses of another, more pointed peak E of Mastodon Dome.  From HP4110, Lupe had a better view of it.  From this distance, it remained hard to tell which was higher, the pointy peak or Mastodon Dome?

Approaching a more elevated portion of the plateau. HP4110 (far R). Photo looks SW.
Peak 4222 (L), Mastodon Dome (R) from HP4110. Photo looks SSE.

Returning to the jeep trail, Lupe followed it during a gradual descent to the next saddle.  This second saddle was much shallower than the first one, so elevation loss wasn’t all that significant.  Wet spots continued to provide the only obstacles, still forcing occasional off-road forays.  Lupe enjoyed getting drinks from various water holes, but most of the time she made rapid progress on firm, dry ground.

The old jeep trail began fading away, except in the damp regions, even before Lupe reached the second saddle.  With an enormous amount of room to roam in, and the general route to Mastodon Dome completely obvious, losing the road now and then really didn’t matter at all.

Heading toward the second saddle as the jeep trail begins to fade. Peak 4222 (Center), Mastodon Dome (R). Photo looks SE.
Near a puddle after descending into the 2nd saddle. HP4110 (far R). Photo looks NW.

The route turned SE crossing the second saddle, then began curving back to the S as Lupe started up again at the far end.  A stream ran down the jeep trail here, once more making its route completely obvious.  After a short climb, the ridge flattened out.  Mastodons continued to be scarce.  The only wildlife was a small bird that kept running across the plain ahead of Lupe.

What kind of a bird is that, SPHP?  It doesn’t even like to fly!

Don’t really know, Loop.  Haven’t seen any like it in Alaska before.  If I had to guess, maybe it’s some kind of plover?

With the help of the telephoto lens, SPHP made several attempts to get a decent photo, but all the images turned out fuzzy.

Following a stream on the road while climbing out of the 2nd saddle. Photo looks SSE.
A plover of some sort? SPHP didn’t know.

Although not specifically marked as such on the topo map, a second HP4110 was situated near the S end of this next flat stretch.  Lupe was getting close to it, when she came across a metal rod sticking 4 or 5 feet out of the ground.  A foot long block of wood was attached to the top.

By the odd marker on the way to the S HP4110 (far R). Peak 4222 (L), Mastodon Dome (R). Photo looks SSE.

What’s this for, SPHP?

SPHP examined the block of wood.  Any paint had peeled away ages ago.

Dunno, Looper.  Clearly a marker of some sort.  Maybe it had something to do with the old road?

So glad I bring you along on these magnificent adventures, SPHP.  You’re a veritable encyclopedia of information, aren’t you?

From the S HP4110, the third and final saddle leading to Mastodon Dome was visible ahead.  While this was a steeper, more substantial drop like the first saddle had been, the entire route going the rest of the way clear up to Mastodon Dome’s summit looked like cake.

Peak 4222 (L) & Mastodon Dome (R) from the S HP4110. Photo looks SSE.

A little steep near the end, but appears we’ve got it made, Loopster!  Before long, we’ll be way up on Mastodon Dome!

Incredibly disappointing, SPHP!

What!  Why?

All this way and not a single mastodon anywhere, SPHP!  One bird, what’s that?  I’d hoped to see huge herds of ancient, shaggy mammoths stomping across these stupendous ridges, devouring everything in sight!

Looks like they’ve pretty much been here and done that, Loop.  Not much left to eat on these ridges, especially if you’re as big as a mastodon.

We haven’t even seen a single discarded ivory tusk, SPHP.  At least that would have been something!

Have to agree with you there, Loop.  A tusk would be a real find!  Even one fresh mammoth tusk might be worth a fortune on the black market.

Oh, right!  Like we could actually cash in.  Doubt you could find your way to a black market at midnight, SPHP.

Suppose you’re right, Loopster, but how are you supposed to find them, if they’re so dark?  Anyway, let’s keep going.  Might still be some mammoths on Mastodon Dome.  We aren’t there yet.

Heading down to the third & final saddle. Mastodon Dome (Center). Photo looks S.

Near the final saddle’s low point, Lupe made an unexpected discovery.  A heap of rusty metal trash, several pieces of which were quite large and heavy, sat over toward the W edge.  Some of the debris appeared to have melted in a fire and resolidified.

By the metal junk heap. Photo looks WSW.

Suppose there’s no point in asking you what this once was, is there, SPHP?

Uh, no.  All I can tell you, Loop, is that it doesn’t belong here.  On the way back, I’ll pack out as much as I can for proper disposal.

You’ll hardly make a dent in it, SPHP.

I know, but every little bit helps.

The biggest climb of the entire journey was now directly ahead.  From the bottom of the third saddle, the top of Mastodon Dome loomed more than 500 feet above, really not all that much for a peakbagging Dingo.  Full of confidence, Lupe started up the final tundra-covered slope.

Starting up. Mastodon Dome (Center). Photo looks S.

Halfway up, suddenly there was some excitement!  Spotting movement, Lupe dashed away.  No, not mastodons – caribou!  Having noticed Lupe and SPHP’s approach, 3 caribou were running S along Mastodon Dome’s NE slope.  They vanished over a ridge long before the American Dingo got anywhere near them.  Lupe came racing back.

C’mon, SPHP!  Caribou!

I know, I saw them, Loopster.  I’m coming!

When SPHP finally managed to reach the point where the caribou had vanished, Lupe began whining in frustration.

There they are, SPHP!

Sure enough.  The caribou were already way over on Mastodon Dome’s S ridge, now mere dots in the distance.  Moments later, they vanished over that ridge, too.

Seeing the caribou breathed new spirit into Lupe.  Greatly excited, with renewed confidence in the possibilities Mastodon Dome might have in store, the Carolina Dog sniffed her way higher.

In the vicinity where the caribou were when Lupe first spotted them. Mastodon Dome (Center). Photo looks S.

The climb steepened and got a little rockier.  Vestiges of the old jeep trail reappeared for the first time in a while.  Apparently it had once gone clear to the top.

Approaching the steepest part of Mastodon Dome’s N slope. Photo looks S.

Enough to make SPHP huff and puff, but Mastodon Dome’s N slope never even got close to steep enough to cause the least bit of concern.  Near the top, the rate of climb diminished.  Lupe’s long journey ended with an easy romp to the summit.

Heading for success on the upper N slope. Photo looks S.
Almost there! Photo looks S.

8-4-23, 12:43 PM, 55ºF, Mastodon Dome (4,418 ft.) – A few rocks greeted Lupe at the N end of a small plateau that broadened out and tilted down to the S.  Beyond a wooden cross laying flat on the ground, a cairn sat a short distance away at the approximate true summit.  Proceeding to the cairn, 8 feet SE of it, she found the “Masto” survey benchmark attached to a flat rock.

N end of the summit region. Wooden cross (Center), summit cairn (R of Center). Photo looks SSW.
By the summit cairn. HP4280 (Center) in the foreground out along Mastodon Dome’s W ridge. Photo looks WSW.
The “Masto” survey benchmark.

And that was about it.  No mastodons, no saber tooth tigers, no caribou, not even any small birds anywhere in sight.  If they had been there, the American Dingo certainly would have seen them.  The day had become mostly sunny in all directions, views marred only by the smoky haze driven this way on a 15-20 mph W wind.

Greater atmospheric clarity would have been nice, but the smoke wasn’t terrible.  Views were much as expected, similar to those seen during the long trek to get here.  Barren hills and ridges stretched away toward all horizons.  Despite the emptiness, or perhaps because of it, SPHP found it easy to imagine mastodons plodding over this vast, undulating world, their long fur swept by the wind amid flying snow.

Wonder how long it’s been since the last time a mastodon was actually here, Loop?

Quite a while, SPHP.  Months, or even longer.  I can’t detect any mastodon scent at all.

That’s sad!  At least we saw some caribou, and managed to get here.  In any case, congratulations on your successful ascent of Mastodon Dome, Loopster.  Maybe a chocolate coconut bar will help us get over our dearth of mastodons disappointment?

Worth a shot, SPHP.  Bring on that chocolately coconut goodness!

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, then a comfy patch of tundra 20 or 30 feet SW of the cairn was chosen for the chocolate coconut bar’s demise.  Beef jerky, Taste of the Wild, and water rounded out the Carolina Dog’s feast, while SPHP also partook of the beef jerky, then had a vanilla pudding cup and honey-roasted peanuts, too.

Facing W directly into the wind, it felt a bit chilly.  SPHP threw a light jacket over Lupe, which she seemed to appreciate, but she didn’t snooze much, staying bright-eyed and alert most of the time while sniffing the breeze.  At one point, she leapt to her paws and ran 50 feet SW before stopping to stare off into the distance.

Checking for mastodons. Photo looks SW.

Apparently satisfied, Lupe returned and laid down on the tundra again, giving no indication of what had piqued her interest.

The break spot overlooked HP4280, a rounded hill about a mile away along Mastodon Dome’s W ridge.  It was a pleasant scene, and exploring over that way would have been easy.  However, it was a long way back to Eagle Summit, and the additional distance seemed unnecessary.  Lupe could already see what was over there from here.

HP4280 (L of Center) from the break spot. Photo looks W.

Another grand view was in the opposite direction.  From the E edge of the summit region, Peak 4222 was in sight.  Its W high point was also only about a mile away.  Getting over there would have been possible, but required substantially more effort due to the amount of elevation loss necessary to cross the deep saddle leading to it.

Peak 4222 (R). Photo looks ENE.

To the NNE, there was a view of the Mastodon Creek valley.

Mastodon Creek valley (L). Photo looks NE.

Exploring the summit region’s S end, the ground was lower.  Minor rock outcroppings tilted skyward here, and Mastodon Dome’s massive S ridge stretched away toward another a series of distant hills, some of which weren’t much lower.

Along the SE edge of the summit region. Photo looks NNW.
Looking S.

The best view of all was to the NW, where big clouds were building over Porcupine Dome (4,915 ft.) and Pinnell Mountain (4,934 ft.).  It was fun to remember Lupe’s explorations over that way along the Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail less than a year ago.

Pinnell Mountain (R of Center), Porcupine Dome (R). Photo looks NW.

8-4-23, 1:59 PM, Mastodon Dome – As always, the time passed quickly.  More than an hour an fifteen minutes after arriving, Lupe stood near the summit cairn for the final time, the W wind and a clearer blue sky at her back.  Beyond her, the backpack still marked the spot where she’d spent most of her time up here relaxing.  A few more minutes, and it would be Onward!  Puppy, ho!

“Masto” benchmark (L), Peak 4280 (R of Center), summit cairn (R). Photo looks WSW.

Sorry that we’d didn’t get to see any mastodons, Loopster.

Me, too, SPHP!  Sadly, I don’t think we will on the way back, either.  I didn’t even sniff out a single mastodon pie on the way here.  You’d think they’d be easy to find, and all over the place.

True enough, Loop.  I’d have probably stepped in one, if there’d been any.

About to head back. Eagle Summit (L) in the distance. Photo looks N.

The return was a blast!  Unexpected excitement awaited back down at the very first saddle Lupe came to.  Caribou!  A whole herd of them with giant antlers were here now.

Part of the caribou herd.
With a little more help from the telephoto lens.
Some mighty spiffy antlers!

When the caribou moved away, SPHP remembered to fill the backpack with as much of the metal debris from the junk pile as possible.  98% of it is still there for Mastodon Dome’s next visitor to claim.

For miles, Lupe roamed far, wide, and free, no longer sticking to the old jeep trail route.  She saw a couple more of the small birds that liked to run rather than fly.  A third of the way back, SPHP caught a glimpse of an animal slinking across the tundra at high speed.  Possibly a marmot, but Lupe hadn’t seen any others, nor heard any whistles.  Might have been a badger or a wolverine!

SPHP also found another one of the metal rods with a 4×4 block of wood on top just laying on the ground, and carted it back, too.

Lupe returned to HP4110 – both of them!  From the N one, she enjoyed a view of Eagle Summit (4,000 ft.).  Pinnell Mountain, Porcupine Dome, and Peak 4350 were all in sight, too.

Eagle Summit (Center), Pinnell Mountain (far L), Peak 4350 (L), & Porcupine Dome (L of Center). Photo looks NW.
A final look back. Peak 4222 (L), Mastodon Dome (Center), HP4280 (R). Photo looks S.

Approaching Eagle Summit, a dark cloud threatened rain, but not a drop fell before it sailed off to the E.

8-4-23, 5:51 PM – Mastodon Dome had been a great day!  As Lupe turned off the Steese Highway and began trotting up the Eagle Summit Wayside access road, she was looking forward to a tasty dinner in the RAV4 while relaxing on her pink blanket.

Hang on, Loop!  I’ve got one more thing to do.

Be quick about it, SPHP, whatever it is!

Leaving the road, SPHP went over to the white metal shed, disappearing inside before reappearing a moment later.

Quick enough for you, Loopster?

Surprisingly, yes, for once!  What did you do in there, SPHP?

Not much, Loop.  Just needed to take one more picture.

(End, 8-4-23, 5:54 PM)

Windy Trail
On Mastodon Dome, Alaska 8-4-23
Lupe’s GPS Track

Links:

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The Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail, Alaska – Part 1: Eagle Summit to Porcupine Dome (9-2-22)

The Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail, Alaska – Part 2: Porcupine Dome to Pinnell Mountain (9-2-22)

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Mount Fairplay, Alaska (8-2-23)

Part 2 of Day 11 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

2:37 PM, Taylor Highway at the Mount Fairplay Wayside – Discouraging!  That’s what the first faint view of Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.) dimly seen in the distance amid a sea of smoke had been, but the mountain was considerably closer now.

The smoke doesn’t look that bad from here, SPHP.  Let’s go for it!

Mount Fairplay (R of Center) from the Taylor Highway. Photo looks S.
Taylor Highway information posted at the Mount Fairplay Wayside.

Oh, we’re going to, Loopster!  The way this Dingo Vacation has been going, we’re climbing anything that’s even marginal, unless and until we can find clearer skies.  Besides, it’s been nearly 4 years since we’ve been up on Mount Fairplay, and I’m really looking forward to it.

3:40 PM, 69ºF, Taylor Highway, MP 32.8 – SPHP nearly had the backpack ready to go when a caribou suddenly emerged from the bushes on the opposite side of the road, and began trotting N.  Still relaxing on her pink blanket in the RAV4, Lupe didn’t see the caribou until SPHP pointed it out.  An immediate, enthusiastic barking fit ensued, spurring the caribou to pick up its pace before once again vanishing among the bushes.

Let me out, SPHP!  A caribou!

I know, it was awesome, Loop!  Trotted right past me.  Gone now, though, so forget it.  You know, if you’re interested in wildlife, maybe being a bit more subtle would help.  In any case, we’ve got a mountain to climb!

SPHP opened the door, and Lupe hopped out.

Mount Fairplay (L) from the pullout at milepost 32.8. Photo looks ESE.

I’ve never seen Mount Fairplay looking so green before, SPHP.  Usually it’s a mountain of gold!

That’s because we’ve never been here this early in the season before.  Another 2 or 3 weeks, and it won’t look like summer anymore.  A month, and the colors will be amazing.  Actually better then, Looper, but it is what it is, and we’re here now.  So, onward!  Puppy ho!

SPHP crossed the highway and started up into the bushes, but the American Dingo hung back near the RAV4.  In full sun and a fur coat on a warm day, suddenly Lupe wasn’t nearly as motivated as she’d been only moments ago when the caribou had been here.

You coming, Loopster?  Or are you suffering from PCDS?

PCDS?  What’s that, SPHP?

Post-Caribou Depression Syndrome.

Oh, I see.  Yes, I think I’ve got some PCDS, SPHP, but mainly I’m just kind of hot.

We’ll take it slow and easy, Looper, so you don’t get overheated.  As far as the PCDS goes, who knows?  We might see more caribou during the trek up Mount Fairplay.  That would be a surefire cure, wouldn’t it?

Somewhat encouraged, Lupe followed at a distance while playing her stalking game.  The Carolina Dog repeatedly sat in whatever shade she could find, semi-hidden among the bushes until SPHP was out of sight, before pursuing and catching up.

Setting out for Mount Fairplay (R of Center). Photo looks E.

Although it didn’t look like much, a mildly steep slope forming the first part of the ascent was actually the most difficult.  The bushes down near the highway were taller and thicker, and a band of alders above them presented even more challenges.  Lupe enjoyed the shade and had no problem slinking between them, but SPHP had to force a way through.

Enjoying the shade of the alders.

Fortunately, the alders weren’t that big yet, and didn’t extend too far up the slope.  SPHP managed to get past them, and progress improved as Lupe headed for the toe of a vast, gentler slope extending ESE toward a saddle on Mount Fairplay’s broad, gently rounded S ridge.

Above and beyond the alders looking back at the RAV4 (L of Center) down at the pullout along the Taylor Highway. Photo looks WNW.
On the lower end of the gentle slope leading to the saddle on the S ridge (Center). Mount Fairplay (L). Photo looks ESE.

The bushes were quite a bit smaller up on the long, gentle slope, which looked like an easy stroll.  However, prior experience had shown that the march higher wasn’t going to be as easy as it appeared.  The tundra was very thick and spongy, making each step much more of an effort than it should have been.  Walking on the giant slope was like taking a trek on an enormous marshmallow.  Furthermore, although Lupe had never run into mosquitoes on Mount Fairplay before, they were here in such numbers today that SPHP finally had to break out the Deet.

The most significant obstacle, though, grew in great abundance.  Wild blueberries were everywhere!  Juicy, but their tartness this early in the season helped SPHP avoid becoming ensnarled in the blueberry trap for too long, although SPHP wouldn’t have objected to such an outcome in the least, if they’d been a little sweeter.

Wild blueberries.

The long trudge higher went on with frequent short breaks, mostly due to the amount of effort required by the sponginess of the tundra.  This slope usually had some nice water holes Lupe could take advantage of on it, but they were nearly all dry today.  Didn’t really matter, since SPHP had brought plenty of water along.  Just another indication of how hot and dry this summer had been in the far N.

Lupe eventually gave up on her stalking game.  Hard to stay hidden on such an open slope!  As the American Dingo gained elevation, the sky above looked quite blue, but smoke marred the views in all directions, especially toward the W.

Glancing back down the long, gentle slope. Photo looks WNW.

The terrain eventually began to steepen.  Lupe came to firmer ground amid collections of rocks.  For a while, big cumulus clouds boiling up E of the mountain caused some concern.  SPHP kept an eye on them as Lupe continued higher.

On somewhat steeper, rockier terrain. Mount Fairplay (Center). Photo looks E.

Soon Mount Fairplay’s S ridge was directly ahead.  This was the steepest part of the climb.  Nothing to it, really.  With many lanes of tundra to chose from, Lupe easily avoided most of the rocks.

Approaching the S ridge (Center). Mount Fairplay (L). Photo looks ESE.
Starting the S ridge ascent. Photo looks E.
Mount Fairplay (Center) from partway up. Photo looks NE.
A smoky glance back at the Taylor Highway, dimly seen below, from the top of the steepest part of the climb. Photo looks WSW.

Once the rate of climb started to diminish, the American Dingo could have angled NE more directly toward Mount Fairplay.  Instead, Lupe stuck with tradition and kept climbing E onto the S ridge.  This region was all a mix of fairly rocky terrain and thinner, much firmer tundra, which made progress significantly easier than down below.

Mount Fairplay (Center) as seen from rockier terrain while still on the way up to the S ridge (R). Photo looks NE.

Upon reaching the crest of the ridge, Mount Fairplay’s summit was less than 0.33 mile N.  To the S, the broad ridge led to a rough rock formation Lupe had once explored after her 2018 ascent.  Unfortunately, with such a late start, that bit of fun wasn’t going to be in the cards again today.

Mount Fairplay (Center) from the S ridge. Photo looks N.
The dark, rugged rock formation (R of Center) Lupe had once explored. Photo looks S.

Of the slightly more than 2000 feet of elevation gain required to reach the top of Mount Fairplay, less than 300 feet remained.  Even though this final ascent was the rockiest part of the entire trek, it wasn’t difficult at all.  Faint use trails ran among the rocks, often following narrow lanes of tundra that existed even this far up the mountain.

For most of the climb, Lupe stayed toward the E edge of the slope.  Once near the top, she entered the summit region from the SW, her traditional approach which had always seemed easiest.

Starting the final ascent. Photo looks N.
Getting close to the top along the E edge. Photo looks N.
Approaching the towers of the summit region from along the W edge. Photo looks NNE.

6:54 PM, 66°F, Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.) – Lupe stood atop a low wall of rock just N of the collection of towers and a metal shed near the S end of the rocky, but otherwise flat plain comprising the summit region.  A white wooden pole jutted up from her back.  This low wall, although not natural, had always seemed like the highest point despite a number of boulders near the E edge that were very close to the same elevation.

On the low rock wall about the highest point on Mount Fairplay. Photo looks NNW.

Great to be back on Mount Fairplay again, isn’t it, SPHP?

Sure is, Loopster!  Congratulations on your 4th ascent here!  Even though Mount Fairplay is just a big hill, I’ve always liked it ever since we first saw it way off in the distance back in 2017.  From this angle, though, it looks like you’ve been skewered on a stick.

I suppose so, SPHP.  What happened to the tower that used to be over by that pole?

Apparently someone removed it, Loop, but I have no idea why, or exactly what purpose it served in the first place.

After a glance at the smoky views to the SE, Lupe headed over to the white wooden pole.  About a foot in diameter and 9 feet tall, it was firmly cemented into the ground.

The smoky view to the SE from the same rock wall.
By the white, wooden pole. Photo looks NNE.

Any idea what this is for, SPHP?

Uh, no.  That’s even less clear than the reason the former tower was here, Loopster.  The tower probably had something to do with communications or the weather.

Stumped by the tall, skinny stump then, SPHP?

You might say that.  Have to admit that nothing that makes any sense comes to mind, Looper.  Shall we go see if the Mount Fairplay survey marker is still over near the N end of the summit region?

Sure enough, the survey marker, a directional one pointing toward a benchmark that SPHP had never been able to find, was still there.

Lupe standing next to the brass survey marker. Photo looks SSW.
The “Mt. Fairplay” directional marker.

Near the survey marker was a view of distant hills and ridges to the N, smoky like in all other directions.  The last time Lupe had been here in 2019, she’d gone down the mountain this way, a considerably longer route, but also leading to another fun exploration.  Suddenly that day seemed simultaneously like only yesterday and a very long time ago.

The self-conflicted thought produced a wave of melancholy that swept over SPHP.  Would have been nice to sit here along the N edge of the summit region pondering the view, but the air was dead calm.

The view to the N as Lupe stands directly over the survey marker. Photo looks NNE.

About time for a chocolate coconut bar, isn’t it, SPHP?

Yup!  But the bugs are kind of bad here.  Let’s go over to the W edge where there’s more of a breeze, Looper.  We’ll split one over there.

Midway along the W edge, a patch of tundra provided a soft spot where Lupe could lay down in comfort.  The chocolate coconut bar, the only food SPHP had brought along, turned out to be half melted.  After the sticky mess was consumed, Lupe eagerly licked soft chocolate off the empty wrapper as SPHP held it open for her.

The light breeze out of the W actually did help to some extent.  The bugs weren’t as bad here.  Sitting together, the long green slope the Carolina Dog had come up was in sight far below.  Once familiar hills and long ridges to the W were only dimly seen in the distance as if in a dream, and higher mountains that should have been visible far to the SW were completely hidden in the murk.

Overhead, the big cumulus clouds that had been building up during the ascent had shriveled away and sailed off to the E, no longer posing even a theoretical threat.  Once upon a time, a squirrel that had mysteriously found it’s way up here had eluded Lupe by scrambling to the top of a pole over by the towers at the S end of the summit region, but nothing stirred today.

As if sedated by chocolate, Lupe’s eyes grew heavy.  She put her head down and closed them.  SPHP wrapped the purple Columbia pullover around her so she could doze in comfort.

Napping along the W edge. Photo looks NNW.

For a long time, SPHP sat there staring off into the haze while cradling Lupe’s head, stroking her soft fur and ears, and occasionally kissing her sweet nose, all the while speaking quietly of prior grand adventures both here at Mount Fairplay and elsewhere.

Had coming here been a mistake?  The air quality seemed barely any better in Alaska than it had been back in the Yukon.  Didn’t matter, the die was cast.  The decision had been made.  Lupe’s search for clear blue, or at least smoke-free, skies would continue.  Whatever happened, being here on Mount Fairplay again was no mistake.  Quite the contrary!  This fleeting moment in time was both rare and precious.  Best to relax and simply enjoy being here together again for as long as possible.

SPHP remembered the golden tundra, explorations in various directions, and brilliant fall colors of prior visits.  On Lupe’s first night down along the Taylor Highway, an orange then yellow then white moon had come sneaking up over the S ridge in the middle of the night.  For the first time ever, Lupe had seen an impressive display of the ghostly green aurora borealis dance among the stars.

8:21 PM –  Gosh!  Guess I dozed off, SPHP.  What’s going on?

Oh, not too much, Loopster.  Just been sitting here enjoying what can be seen of the views.  You’ve had quite the snooze!

I had some of the most beautiful dreams, SPHP!  Mount Fairplay is sort of a magical place, isn’t it?

Couldn’t agree more, Looper!

That Dingo nap did me some good.  I’m feeling more energetic, SPHP.  How much longer until our traditional summit hour is over?

Almost half an hour ago, Loop.

Half an hour ago?  I must really have been zonked, SPHP.  Guess it’s time to go, isn’t it?

Afraid so, sweet puppy.  Before we depart, though, mind if we take a stroll around the perimeter of the summit region, just for a final look?

The Carolina Dog had no objections – wouldn’t take that long.  In fact, Lupe seemed to enjoy her clockwise summit tour along the W edge back to the N end, then past the boulders along the E edge, and back to the towers near the S end as much as SPHP did.

Mount Fairplay’s S ridge (L) from the NE edge. Photo looks SSW.
Near the towers at the S end of the summit region. Photo looks S.
On one of the highest boulders at the S end. Photo looks SSW.
A final glance back before beginning the descent. Photo looks N.

8:37 PM – Lupe stood on a boulder mottled black, gray, green, and white in becoming fashion by various types of lichens.  Beyond and below the American Dingo were the dark rock formation along Mount Fairplay’s S ridge, a vast open region of rolling hills, and the long green slope leading back to the highway.

Final moments in the summit region. Photo looks SSW.

Hate to say it, but I guess this is it for Mount Fairplay in 2023, Loopster.  No telling how long it might be before we’re back here again, if ever.  You ready to head down?

Mount Fairplay is awesome, and will always be a favorite place, but I am ready, SPHP.

Starting down. Photo looks S.

The descent was a joyful, easy romp made exciting by the discovery of another caribou that Lupe detected long before SPHP did.

Back down on the S ridge. Photo looks S.

Near the end of what suddenly seemed a perfect day despite the smoke, an American Dingo still roamed happy and free across the verdant lower slopes of Mount Fairplay as a yellow orange sun sank toward the wild blue gray hills on the WNW horizon.  (End 10:07 PM, 60ºF)

Mount Fairplay, Alaska 8-2-23

Links:

Next Adventure                        Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track (ascent only)

Lost Chicken Hill & Mount Fairplay (8-19-19)

Mount Fairplay near Chicken, Alaska (8-25-18)

Mount Fairplay & Chicken, Alaska to the Top of the World Highway & Dawson City, Yukon Territory (9-2-17 & 9-3-17)

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