Yukon Territory – Page 3 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

The Bullion Plateau Trail, Kluane National Park & Reserve, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-30-23)

Day 39 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

9:08 AM, 52ºF – Cloudy and calm this morning. As Lupe passed several colorful tents during her morning constitutional along Kluane Lake, the small waves rippling into shore were smooth.

Morning at **Kluane Lake**. Photo looks SW.

Are we still going to drop by the Thechal Dahl visitor centre, SPHP?

Yes. I know it’s a long shot, Loopster, but I want to see what the rangers can tell us about crossing Bullion Creek. If they’ve got any suggestions, we still might be able to get to Observation Mountain (6,824 ft.) and see the Kaskawulsh Glacier.

10:00 AM, Thechal Dahl visitor centre – Lupe was at the visitor centre when it opened, but so was everyone else, including an entire bus full of high school students. The park rangers were swamped the moment they unlocked the door. After hanging around for a while, the crowd still hadn’t thinned out.

We’re getting nowhere fast here, Loopster. Maybe we should just explore the Bullion Plateau trail today? We can still come back to inquire about the Bullion Creek crossing tomorrow.

Fine with me, SPHP! I’m not all that eager to drown in Bullion Creek, anyway.

11:33 AM, 60ºF, Slims West trailhead – Sadly off to such a late start that the parking lot was already nearly full when SPHP snuck the RAV4 into one of the last available spots. Lupe was raring to go, barking excitedly as SPHP completed last minute preparations. As soon as everything was ready, the Carolina Dog was off, following the same old road she’d been on yesterday evening.

At the **Slims West trailhead**. Photo looks S.

A few hundred feet after passing the Sheep Creek trail on the R, a cairn of white stones appeared on the L, marking the start of the Shepherd’s Knoll trail roughly 0.5 mile from the trailhead.

**Slims West trail** (straight), start of the **Shepherd’s Knoll trail** (L). Photo looks SW.

This is as far as we’ve ever been on the Slims West trail, Looper. Ready for a new adventure?

Always, SPHP!

Since Lupe was heading up the Slims River valley, SPHP was surprised when the trail began a steady, gradual descent. After losing 100 feet of elevation, it flattened out again, eventually bending around to the R (W). Lupe reached a broad, rocky wash at the mouth of a valley bordered by vertical, yellow bluffs. A clear, blue-gray stream flowed through it all.

This must be Sheep Creek, Loop.

Sheep Creek flows out of the valley between the bluffs on the R. Photo looks W.

Sheep Creek was both a lovely stream, and a little too big to rock hop. A little too deep to wade through it, too, without getting sopping wet boots and socks. SPHP sat down and removed them, then forded the stream. Apparently, Lupe wasn’t all that eager to get wet paws, either. She laid down near the bluffs, instead of following SPHP across.

Below the bluffs, reluctant to cross **Sheep Creek**. Photo looks NE.

Looper! Come on! What’s gotten into you? I said Sheep Creek, not Bullion Creek! Nothing to this one.

Took a few minutes, but the American Dingo finally got the message, fording the stream without the least difficulty.

You were right, SPHP. Nothing to it!

Well, of course. You couldn’t see that yourself, Loopster?

Can’t be too careful when dangerous streams like Bullion Creek are around, SPHP.

After crossing the rest of Sheep Creek’s rocky floodplain, the Slims West trail continued SW through tall bushes, slowly losing elevation again. Lupe caught up to a couple carrying heavy backpacks. They appeared to be equipped for at least a 3 or 4 day journey, yet told SPHP they were only going to spend a single night out before returning to the trailhead.

Marching along together for a while, SPHP mentioned Bullion Creek, and the young man Lupe met yesterday, who had been battered and bruised while crossing it. This couple was already aware of the Bullion Creek challenge. Rangers had advised them not to attempt a crossing where the Slims West trail reaches it, but to explore farther downstream where there were safer spots.

Before long, a massive wooden post appeared along the L side of the trail. “Plateau” and an arrow pointing R were carved into a huge knot. Dead ahead, the trail forked, with a sign sitting toward the R. This was where the Bullion Plateau trail branched off.

**Junction** of the **Bullion Plateau trail** (R), and **Slims West trail** (L). Photo looks SW.

**Signage** at the start of the **Bullion Plateau trail**.

Parting ways with the couple here, SPHP thanked them for the tip on Bullion Creek, and wished them a safe and fun journey.

Did you hear what they said, Loopster? Maybe we can cross Bullion Creek, if we choose the right spot!

You didn’t bring the tiny house, SPHP. We’ll have to go back and get it.

Oh, I don’t mean now, Loop. We’ve already committed to the Bullion Plateau trail. Maybe tomorrow we can go see the Kaskawulsh Glacier?

12:49 PM – The Bullion Plateau trail started out as a flat, old jeep route heading NW through the tall bushes. Early on, a silvery mountain with sort of a flat top was visible ahead. Was that mountaintop the Bullion Plateau? SPHP didn’t really know.

Setting out on the **Bullion Plateau trail**. Photo looks NW.

The flat stretch soon ended. Upon reaching a spruce forest, the old jeep route began switchbacking up a slope at a moderate rate of climb, still including some relatively flat sections. Above the first stretch of forest, an open slope provided an early view of the Slims River valley.

The **Slims River valley** as seen after gaining a bit of elevation. Photo looks SSW.

Entering another stretch of forest, the jeep trail continued switchbacking higher. Looking back to the ENE near one of the turns, the Carolina Dog could see the S end of Kluane Lake.

**S end of Kluane Lake** (Center) in the distance. Photo looks ENE.

The trail gradually steepened. Flat sections became rare, then vanished entirely. SPHP kept having to pause now and then to gasp for air. The forest eventually began thinning out. Lupe came to another region of tall bushes which were just beginning to show fall colors.

After a rather long, steep climb NW, Lupe reached another flat spot where she passed a 6.5 km marker, the only sign she’d seen since the start of the Bullion Plateau trail. A mountain that looked easy to climb was off to the W. However, the landscape was still a dense thicket of bushes, so that notion was premature, at best.

By the **6.5 km marker**. Photo looks W.

This flat area quickly led to another steep stretch. Thirsty after a tiring march higher, SPHP stopped once the rate of climb began to diminish, sitting down briefly for a water break. Ahead, the road continued NW toward some hills.

Waiting for SPHP to finish the water break. Photo looks S.

Heading for the hills along a gentler stretch. Photo looks NNW.

Looking back to the S, Lupe now had a tremendous view of the Slims River valley. Although miles away, below a skinny glacier on a steep mountainside, the toe of the gigantic Kaskawulsh Glacier was in sight!

**Toe of the Kaskawulsh Glacier** (R of Center) at the far end of the **Slims River valley**. Photo looks S.

**Toe of the Kaskawulsh Glacier** (L). Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

The jeep trail headed N for a pass between the hills. Even the bushes were thinning out. Exploring off trail was now a possibility. Reaching the pass, Lupe went by a hill on the R she could have climbed without much trouble. More curious as to what was ahead, the American Dingo stuck with the road, which had once again leveled out.

Approaching the pass (R of Center). Photo looks N.

This level stretch soon brought Lupe to a stand of large bushes arching over the road. Shortly after passing through this Arc de Bushes, a 9.3 km marker appeared on the L.

Passing through the **Arc de Bushes**. Photo looks NNE.

At the **9.3 km marker**. Photo looks NW.

This 9.3 km marker is an important point, Loopster. According to the sign back at the start, we’ve reached the sub-alpine here, and face a choice.

What are the options, SPHP?

We can either follow the Bullion Plateau trail to its end at 12 km, or leave the trail here and go exploring.

Exploring is always fun, SPHP. Any prominent peaks nearby to climb?

Since we hadn’t really anticipated doing the Bullion Plateau trail, I don’t have any maps of the area, Loop. Plenty of mountains around, but I’m not so sure there are any notable peaks we can easily reach from here in the time we’ve got available. Don’t know what we’ll find wandering about.

No maps? Maybe we should just stick with the trail then, SPHP. It will take us to a view of Red Castle Ridge (6,955 ft.), right?

Yup. Should have big views of the Sheep Creek valley along the way, too.

Going off-trail in this open territory did sound like fun. Map or no map, it wouldn’t have been unusual for the American Dingo, but exploring to the end of the Bullion Plateau trail made a certain amount of sense, too. With no other definite objective in mind, not getting to the end of the trail seemed sort of silly.

Let’s have a peek at what the trail has in store from here, SPHP. Then we can decide.

From the 9.3 km sign, the jeep trail curved off to the R (NE). Mount Wallace (7,700 ft.) and Sheep Mountain (6,400 ft.) were both in sight now in that general direction.

**Mount Wallace** (L), **Sheep Mountain** (R). Photo looks ENE.

Heading over to the edge where the trail disappeared, what came next was surprising. Covered with small bushes, the old jeep route started downhill, traversing a steep slope with a fabulous view of the Sheep Creek valley. Most surprising of all, several stones propped up a sign right on the road saying “Caution!, Rock Slides, Attention!”.

**Mount Wallace** (L), **Sheep Mountain** (R) with the **Fortyeight Pup valley** (R) between them. Photo looks ENE.

This does look interesting, SPHP. Let’s try it!

Fine with me, Loopster. Onward! Puppy, ho!

Sticking with the Bullion Plateau trail, it gradually descended the steep upper W slopes of the super deep Sheep Creek valley. As Lupe kept on, the old jeep road essentially vanished, becoming a single track path so narrow that it seemed clear the road had never gone this far.

A glance back at the **high point** (R) Lupe could have visited, but didn’t. Photo looks S.

Traversing the **upper W slopes** (L) of the **Sheep Creek valley** (R). Photo looks N.

The **narrow path** along a **very steep scree slope**. Photo looks NNW.

After losing 200 feet of elevation, the trail leveled out, bouncing up and down from then on. Views of the Sheep Creek valley and the mountains on the other side were tremendous the entire way. To SPHP’s surprise, the trail widened out again as if a road really had been here at one time.

The Carolina Dog came to a region where a section of the mountain had slumped 80 feet. Pink ribbons affixed to the bushes marked the route. Beyond the slump, Lupe passed damp spots, and even a tiny stream. As she kept going, tall bushes sometimes lined one or both sides of the trail. They hid the views, but also provided a sense of privacy and security.

On a **nice, open level stretch**. Photo looks NNW.

Crossing the **slump**. Photo looks NNW.

A **narrow lane** through the bushes. Photo looks N.

As the Bullion Plateau trail continued NNW, the slopes it traversed were no longer as steep. Lupe trotted easily along long flat stretches, making excellent progress. A sense grew that she must be getting close to the end, but the trail went on and on.

A **long, easy route**. Photo looks NNW.

After angling NW, Red Castle Ridge (6,955 ft.) began coming into view. The end couldn’t be much farther.

**Red Castle Ridge** ahead! Photo looks NW.

4:22 PM, 55ºF – Leaving a stretch of tall bushes, a gently sloping field was visible ahead. The trail, which by now was growing faint, led down to it. When Lupe got there, she saw a small sign at the top of a metal pole near the field’s lower ENE end.

The **field** (R), **Red Castle Ridge** (L). Photo looks WNW.

Entering the **field**. **Red Castle Ridge** (L). Photo looks WNW.

At the **12 km marker**, the **official end of the Bullion Plateau trail**. Photo looks NE.

This must be it, SPHP. The official end of the Bullion Plateau trail!

Congratulations on getting this far, Loopster! It doesn’t appear that very many do. Is this actually the end, though? The trail keeps going.

So it did. Following the trail another 100 feet beyond the 12 km marker, it simply vanished among the bushes.

This spur doesn’t go anywhere, SPHP. The 12 km marker really is the end.

Guess you’re right, Loop. That’s what the sign at the start said, too. I was just curious. Let’s head over to the upper end of this field where the best view of Red Castle Ridge is. We can take a break there.

Approaching **Red Castle Ridge**. Photo looks W.

Roaming 0.25 km W through the grassy field, the Carolina Dog reached the edge of a drainage. Red Castle Ridge (6,955 ft.) was directly ahead. Lupe had seen its distinctive, pink, orange, and gray, eroded crest before when she’d climbed Sheep Mountain (6,400 ft.) years ago. Back then, Lupe had been looking down on Red Castle Ridge. From here, it was hundreds of feet higher, but much closer.

**Red Castle Ridge** from the **upper end of the field**. Photo looks W.

**Red Castle Ridge**. Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.

We haven’t reached the top of any mountain, but the Bullion Plateau trail has been a pretty good climb, SPHP. I’m thinking that reaching this view of Red Castle Ridge ought to merit a chocolate coconut bar.

Sounds reasonable to me, Loop. Congratulations again on getting this far!

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, then split the chocolate coconut bar reward and several eagerly accepted pieces of beef jerky with the American Dingo. There was all kinds of room to relax, so after having some Taste of the Wild and water, too, Lupe made herself comfortable.

While Lupe napped, SPHP sat munching on trail mix. The end of the Bullion Plateau trail felt like a hidden hideout, a secret, seldom-visited place. Although Red Castle Ridge was rugged, many of the surrounding mountains and high ridges weren’t as formidable. A Carolina Dog could do a lot of exploring up here.

To the NW, territory on both sides of the drainage E of Red Castle Ridge looked intriguing. Miles away, 2 high peaks were visible at the far end.

**Red Castle Ridge** (L), the **intriguing drainage** (Center). Photo looks NW.

A much closer option was directly S, where a long slope led up to what? The plateau of Bullion Plateau? Lupe hadn’t come to any plateau despite the trail’s name. Tempting to see what was up there!

The slope leading to the **Bullion Plateau**. Photo looks S.

A good guess, but only a guess. With a map, or a little research done ahead of time, SPHP would have known that Lupe could have easily made a loop back to the 9.3 km marker by exploring S up that slope. It really was the way to the plateau of the Bullion Plateau region.

Unfortunately, the sky was cloudy, a little dark and uncertain, when the decision had to be made. At the visitor centre this morning, SPHP had heard talk of rain starting around 6:00 PM. Certainly seemed possible.

5:16 PM – For the last time, Lupe sat at the viewpoint with Red Castle Ridge in all its glory on display beyond her.

Final moments near **Red Castle Ridge**. Photo looks W.

Beautiful, Loop! Thank you. Hate to say it, but it’s that time. Onward! Puppy, ho!

A moment later, Lupe was on her way.

Heading back to the Bullion Plateau trail. **Mount Wallace** (L). Photo looks E.

The return was gorgeous! Heading back, Lupe was facing the big views. Snowfields near Vulcan Mountain (9,055 ft.) on the far side of the Slims River valley caught the eye. The summit was lost in the clouds, but most of the rugged peaks nearby were on display.

**Snowfields** near **Vulcan Mountain’s summit** (R). Photo looks S.

**Vulcan Mountain** (far R). Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

The territory the trail passed through even seemed more dramatic on the way back. From some sections, Lupe enjoyed much better views of the gray bluffs along the upper rim of the Sheep Creek valley.

A great view of the **gray bluffs** above the trail. Photo looks S.

Approaching the **very steep scree slope** that the trail traversed. Photo looks S.

Gazing into the **Sheep Creek valley**. **Sheep Mountain** (far L). Photo looks ESE.

Once back to the 9.3 km marker, it was downhill or flat nearly the entire rest of the way. Lupe enjoyed spectacular views of the Slims River valley and the mountains along it, from the SW end of Kluane Lake clear to the toe of the Kaskawulsh Glacier.

Heading back to the **Slims River valley**. Photo looks SSE.

**Toe** **of the** **Kaskawulsh Glacier** (R) in the distance. Photo looks SSE.

Never did rain. Although the sky remained mostly cloudy, patches of blue existed, too. The slanting rays of the evening sun highlighted the ruggedness of the mountains.

**St. Elias Mountains** beyond the **Slims River valley**. Photo looks SE.

The fun downhill march back into the Slims River valley went fast.

Returning to the **Slims River valley**. Photo looks SE.

8:14 PM – Lupe had seen no one at all along the Bullion Plateau trail. At this hour, approaching Sheep Creek again, she hadn’t seen anyone along the Slims West trail, either.

Approaching Sheep Creek. **SW end of Sheep Mountain** (R). Photo looks NNE.

This time, the American Dingo didn’t hesitate, fording Sheep Creek right along with SPHP.

Near day’s end, back across **Sheep Creek**. Photo looks SE.

8:55 PM, Slims West trailhead – Only 4 vehicles were left at the trailhead that had been full to overflowing this morning, when Lupe arrived back at the RAV4 again.

What a day, Loopster! Hungry?

Not the Kaskawulsh Glacier and Observation Mountain (6,824 ft.), SPHP, but the Bullion Plateau trail was awesome! Had it all to ourselves, too. And yes, I’m famished!

My only regret is that we didn’t get an earlier start, Loop. We could have done a lot more exploring up there. Still fun, though! And you did make it to the end of the Bullion Plateau trail.

And to that splendid close up view of Red Castle Ridge, SPHP!

Sigh. Cheese and Ritz crackers for dinner again. Oh, well. It would do, and then it would be time for Dingo Dreamland.

**Red Castle Ridge** from the **end of the Bullion Plateau Trail**, Kluane National Park & Reserve, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-30-23

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track & Ascent Statistics

Kluane National Park & Reserve

Kluane National Park & Reserve Trails & Routes Map

Sheep Mountain, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-13-17)

Decoeli, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-9-16)

Kings Throne, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-7-16)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Mount Chester Henderson, Ogilvie Mountains, Tombstone Territorial Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-20-23)

Part 2 of Day 28 & Day 29 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-19-23, 1:39 PM – As always, the relaxing drive up the Engineer Creek valley, over Windy Pass, and thence up the Blackstone River valley had been gorgeous.

We’re getting close to the N end of Tombstone Territorial Park, Looper. Want to stop at Chapman Lake, and get out for a sniff?

Will we be able to see Distincta Peak, SPHP?

Doubt it. We’re too far S already, Loop.

Too bad, SPHP. I’m always ready for a sniff, though!

**Chapman Lake** near the **N end of Tombstone Territorial Park**. Photo looks N.

8-19-23, 2:15 PM, Dempster Highway near km 96 – The Chapman Lake sniff had been a short one, just enough to stretch a bit and have a look around. Now at the lower section of a roomy two-tier pullout on the E side of the highway, Lupe was going to get to stay here longer, yet the Carolina Dog seemed content resting on her pink blanket in the RAV4.

Just going to lie there waiting for lunch, Loop? If you get out, I’ll throw a ball for you.

What’s on the menu, SPHP?

Dinty Moore chicken and dumplings. Won’t take long to heat them up.

Sounds good! Make sure you save plenty for me, SPHP. I’m famished!

After lunch, Lupe did get out to have a look at the bubbling pond and chase a ball. SPHP did some cleaning and straightening up of the RAV4. More than 2 hours had flown by the time Lupe hit the road S again.

Play ball! **Rule No. 1** – the Dingo always wins. Photo looks NW.

By the **bubbling pond**, a traditional stop. Photo looks E.

On the way to North Fork Pass, SPHP stopped for a look at the beautiful upper East Blackstone River. After going over the pass, Lupe escaped the RAV4 at a big pullout with a famous view. Far in the distance, beyond the upper end of the North Klondike River valley, the sharp spire of Tombstone Mountain (7,192 ft.) touched the clouds.

Upper **East Blackstone River** from the **Dempster Highway**. Photo looks SSW.

**Tombstone Mountain** (Center) beyond the **North Klondike River valley**. Photo looks SW.

Much closer, another mountain of more immediate interest was in sight.

See that big ridge to the SE, Loopster? That’s your objective tomorrow, Mount Chester Henderson (6,300 ft.), also known as Discovery Ridge!

Awesome, SPHP! What’s that pointy peak to the L?

That’s Mount Robert Henderson (6,998 ft.), Loop.

It’s clearly higher, SPHP. We ought to climb it, too!

I’d love to, Loop! If we’ve got time, we’ll take a stab at it.

**Mount Chester Henderson** (Center) aka **Discovery Ridge**. **Mount Robert Henderson** (L) from the **Tombstone Mountain pullout**. Photo looks SE.

8-19-23, 5:15 PM, Tombstone Interpretive Centre, km 71.5 –

That was quick, SPHP. What did you find out?

About what I expected, Looper. We shouldn’t have dilly-dallied so much. The Interpretive Centre closed at 5:00 PM. Think we know what we need to do, though. I’m going to use one of the picnic tables to heat up some chili for dinner, then we’ll go see if we can find the Charcoal Ridge trail.

Both dinner and the reconnaisance mission were successful. The trail was right where it was supposed to be, on the S side of Charcoal Creek, a little N of the Interpretive Centre, directly across from the campground.

8-19-23, 8:59 PM – A big pullout along the North Klondike River well S of the Interpretive Centre would do for the night. The evening sky was beautiful, raising great hopes for tomorrow.

Late evening at the pullout along the North Klondike River.

Wow! I don’t think we’ve ever seen such wonderful weather in Tombstone Territorial Park before, SPHP.

Believe you’re right, Loop. If tomorrow is anything like this, it’s going to be a fantastic day! We’re all set and well-positioned for it, too. We’ll hit the Charcoal Ridge trail bright and early.

Maybe we’ll make it to both Hendersons, SPHP!

Oh, I hope so, Looper. That would be above and beyond expectations.

8-20-23, 7:57 AM, 46ºF, Tombstone Interpretive Centre, km 71.5 – SPHP had already shared beef stew with Lupe, and had a vanilla Equate. Overcast this morning. Disappointing, but the clouds were high and light. Everything was ready, and the American Dingo was rarin’ to go.

What’s the holdup, SPHP?

Don’t see my poles, Loop. Soon as I find them, we’ll be on our way.

The poles weren’t in their usual spot. Where could they be? SPHP tore the back of the RAV4 apart. Nothing.

Oh, my gosh! They aren’t here, Loop. The poles aren’t in the RAV4!

Ridiculous, SPHP! You always bring them. Think back. Did you misplace them when you were cleaning the RAV4 at the bubbling pond?

Hmm. No, I don’t remember seeing them there, Loopster, but I wasn’t looking for them, either. They were the last thing on my mind, since we weren’t going to use them there.

Oh, come on! Where was the last place you remember having them, SPHP?

A logical and easy question to answer. It dawned on SPHP in a flash.

Criminitly! Think I know where they are! Get in the RAV4, Looper. We’re heading back.

Back where, SPHP?

Sapper Hill.

What! You left them on the mountain, SPHP?

No. Not likely. You know how when we return from a trek, I often lean the poles up against the RAV4 before breaking them down and putting them in? Well, I bet I never did that. They were probably still leaning against the RAV4 yesterday when we just drove off and left them, Loop.

Sapper Hill, that’s such a long way! How far back is that?

Nearly 125 km one way, Loopster. So much for Robert Henderson today, maybe Chester, too!

Even if you’re right, SPHP, someone may have found your poles and taken them by now.

Yeah. Nothing we can do about that, Loop. I might have run over them backing out, too. We’ll see.

A minute later, in an unexpected twist of fate, instead of setting out for Mount Chester Henderson, Lupe was back on her pink blanket in the RAV4 heading N.

8-20-23, 10:27 AM, 56ºF – Driving over the bridge over Engineer Creek, SPHP then turned R off the Dempster Highway into the parking area that had served as the trailhead for Sapper Hill (3,084 ft.). Oh, joy!

Luck of the Dingo! There they are, Loopster. My Leki poles!

You didn’t run over them, either, SPHP. They look fine.

SPHP ran out to grab the poles, put them in their customary place in the RAV4, and Lupe was on her way back S.

8-20-23, 1:08 PM, 55ºF, Tombstone Interpretive Centre, km 71.5 – SPHP parked the RAV4 at the empty overflow parking lot.

We’ll stash the RAV4 here since we won’t be getting back until late, Loop. When I said we’d be getting an early start today, I never meant early in the afternoon, yet here we are. We’re still doing this today, right?

Lupe hopped out of the RAV4. The sky was more darkly overcast than it had been this morning.

**Tombstone Interpretive Centre** (L), **Goldensides Mountain** (R). Photo looks N.

What’s the forecast for tomorrow, SPHP?

60% chance of rain, Loop.

This looks good, SPHP!

Yeah, kind of now or never, Looper. Onward! Puppy, ho!

After heading over to the E side of the Dempster Highway, Lupe sniffed her way N in the ditch to Charcoal Creek. Picking up the trail along the S bank, the American Dingo followed it NE into a valley full of trees and tall bushes. Almost right away, a familiar sight was ahead.

On the **Charcoal Creek Trail**. **Goldensides Mountain** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

Goldensides Mountain (6,000 ft.)! Remember being up there, Loop?

Goldensides was a fun one, SPHP! The whole mountain lived up to its name that day! The fall colors were spectacular, and I really enjoyed the big scramble up the rocks on the S side of the mountain.

Charcoal Creek was a small stream with decent flow. The trail never strayed far from it. Lupe came to many overgrown spots and large branches in the way along its banks, as well as some damp regions of soft, black mud. None of these obstacles were all that difficult to get by, although it was easy to see that some regions were prone to flooding.

Off to the E, a hill was soon in sight. In order to reach the ridge leading to Mount Chester Henderson, Lupe was going to have to climb it.

**W end of the ridge** (R) leading to Mount Chester Henderson. Photo looks E.

In a recently flooded region along **Charcoal Creek**. Photo looks NE.

After following Charcoal Creek for roughly 0.30 km, the trail veered off to the R, climbing a steep bank up into a region of tall bushes. The hill, which was the W end of Charcoal Ridge, was now directly E.

Hopelessly lost down in a thickly overgrown jungle she couldn’t begin to see over, Lupe followed the often deeply rutted trail toward the hill. The trail was gooshy in many places, leaving SPHP trying to avoid frequent stretches of soft, slippery, black mud. Lupe had little choice but to plod right through them.

Closing in on the base of the hill, the rate of climb increased. The bushes began getting shorter, allowing Lupe to finally catch glimpses what was ahead. The American Dingo soon reached a clearing that was very wet. Ripe blueberries were abundant in this region, slowing SPHP’s progress.

Heading for the **W end of Charcoal Ridge** (Center). Photo looks E.

At the **wet clearing**. Photo looks ENE.

Lupe gained 200 feet of elevation before getting beyond the last of the wet regions, and more than twice that before the wild blueberries came to an end. The trail became very steep as it went directly up the hill. The bushes went on and on, SPHP sometimes using them for support. They didn’t start to thin out until the Carolina Dog had gained 800 feet of elevation. At this point, the trail began to switchback to some degree.

By the time Lupe had gained 900 feet of elevation, she was in the alpine, above all the tall bushes on more open ground. Still lots of lower bushes around, but they were only a foot high. A mix of tundra and small scree completed the scene. The last 50 feet hadn’t been all that steep, but the big climb had been wearying.

8-20-23, 2:55 PM, W end of Charcoal Ridge – A couple of low hills capped by small rock outcroppings were now ahead. SPHP dropped the pack, and sat down on the tundra.

Let’s take a short break, Loop.

Lupe was happy to lie down next to SPHP. The views back to the W were already impressive. Way down in the North Klondike River valley, both the Tombstone Interpretive Centre and campground were clearly visible on the other side of the Dempster Highway. The bright blue RAV4, sitting alone in the overflow parking lot was easy to spot, too. Toward the SW, Peak 6246, a subpeak of Fold Mountain, towered above it all.

**Peak 6246** (L). **Tombstone Interpretive Centre** (R of Center), **campground** (R), and **Dempster Highway** in the valley below. Photo looks SW.

Looks to me like we could climb Peak 6246, SPHP.

It does! Maybe someday we will, Loopster. I’ll try to remember to put it on your list of possibilities.

Peak 7200 and North Fork Mountain (6,000 ft.) were also in view, over by the big bend where the North Klondike River sweeps down from its upper valley, where Lupe had seen Tombstone Mountain in the distance yesterday.

**Peak 7200** (L of Center), **North Fork Mountain** (R). **North Klondike River** (Center). Photo looks W.

Plenty more to see from here. Goldensides Mountain (6,000 ft.) was less than 3 km almost due N, and Lupe could see a long way S down the North Klondike River valley. However, the Carolina Dog still had a long way to go, and the fun, easy part of the journey was now ahead. After sharing beef jerky and water, Lupe was ready to move on.

The first rocky rise to the E wasn’t far from the break spot.

Might as well tag some of these high points along the way, SPHP.

Sure! Go for it, Loopster!

Approaching the **first two high points** (Center & R). Photo looks E.

The views from the first high point weren’t all that different. After a quick look, Lupe continued on to the second one. From here, she had an excellent view of Mount Chester Henderson (6,300 ft.). The top of Mount Robert Henderson (6,998 ft.) was in sight, too.

**Tombstone campground** (L), **Peak 7200** (L of Center), **North Klondike River** (Center), **North Fork Mountain** (R) from the **first high point**. Photo looks W.

Heading for the **second high point** (R). Photo looks E.

**North Klondike River valley** (Center) from the **second high point**. Photo looks S.

**Mount Chester Henderson** (Center), **Mount Robert Henderson** (L). Photo looks E.

From this second high point, Lupe also had a better view of what was ahead. More hills were in sight along Charcoal Ridge, including HP5400 at the far E end where Lupe would eventually turn SE toward Mount Chester Henderson.

**Charcoal Ridge** (L & Center) from the **second high point**. **HP5400** (R of Center) at the lower end of the ridge coming down from the R. Photo looks E.

The third high point along Charcoal Ridge was bigger and farther away. The trail climbed NE toward it, eventually leveling out shortly before reaching a small cairn perched along a sharp edge. From this cairn, Blackcap Mountain (6,000 ft.) was starting to come into view beyond Goldensides, and the upper regions of the Charcoal Creek valley were visible for the first time.

**Blackcap Mountain** (L), **upper Charcoal Creek valley** (R). Photo looks NE.

**Mount Robert Henderson** (L), **Mount Chester Henderson** (R), **Charcoal Ridge** in the foreground. Photo looks E.

The cairn wasn’t quite at the top of the third hill, but a little way from it. Going over to the high point, the view back to the W showed that Lupe had already gained substantial elevation since leaving the first two hills. Interesting, but what really mattered was what was ahead. Looking E, there were actually some dips along Charcoal Ridge on the way to HP5000, the fourth high point.

**Peak 6246** (L), **second high point** (L of Center) below, **first high point** (beyond Lupe) way down near the W end of Charcoal Ridge, **Peak 7200** (R edge). Photo looks WSW.

**HP5000** (far L), **Mount Robert Henderson** (L), **Mount Chester Henderson** (R). Photo looks E.

As the American Dingo continued E along Charcoal Ridge, she hit all the high points. The trail was easy to follow and generally gained elevation, but with significant flat and downhill sections, too. The ridge narrowed as Lupe went along until it was only 10 feet wide, or even less in spots.

Approaching **HP5000** (L of Center), Photo looks E.

A quick glance back from **HP5000**. **Second high point** (L) and **third high point** (Center) farther down the ridge. Photo looks W.

Most of the time the trail ran right along the crest of the ridge. Beyond deep valleys on both sides, Lupe enjoyed increasingly spectacular views of Goldensides Mountain (6,000 ft.) and Blackcap Mountain (6,000 ft.) to the N, and Mount Chester Henderson (6,300 ft.) to the SE.

**Goldensides Mountain** (L), **Blackcap Mountain** (R). Photo looks N.

**Mount Chester Henderson** aka **Discovery Ridge** from **Charcoal Ridge**. Photo looks SE.

Heading for **HP5400** (L), **Mount Robert Henderson** (L of Center), **Mount Chester Henderson** (R). Photo looks E.

Charcoal Ridge wasn’t scary or dangerous. Overall progress was as good as SPHP’s aerobic capacity would allow. Such a fun trek! Approaching the E end of the ridge, the trail curved SE, intersecting the ridge leading to Mount Chester Henderson without tagging HP5400.

Near a little **knob** on the way to **HP5400** (far L). **Mount Robert Henderson** (L), **Mount Chester Henderson** (R). Photo looks E.

Skipping HP5400 wasn’t going to do, though. The Carolina Dog had to visit this important point!

**Peak 7200** (L) and **Goldensides Mountain** (R) from **HP5400**. Photo looks WNW.

8-20-23, 4:49 PM, E end of Charcoal Ridge – HP5400 was a significant point along the journey. Lupe enjoyed new views here. Off to the NNE was a region of flat highlands and small mountains with higher peaks in the distance. One of the highest peaks was a real eye-catcher due to an unusual sawtooth summit ridge.

What mountain is that, SPHP? It doesn’t look like any of the others.

I have no idea, Loop. Might not even have a name since those peaks aren’t that close to the highway.

An easily recognizable peak like that ought to have a name, SPHP. Plenty of people must have seen it from here.

Well, what do you suggest, Loopster? And no, it can’t be Squirrel Peak or Dingo Mountain, or anything like that.

How about Serrated Mountain, SPHP?

Oh, I like that, Looper. Fits, and it’s an unusual name.

**Serrated Mountain** (L) in the distance. Photo looks NNE.

A more complete view of Mount Robert Henderson was also available from the HP5400 region.

**Mount Robert Henderson** (Center) from the **E end of Charcoal Ridge**. Photo looks E.

**Mount Chester Henderson** from **HP5400**. Photo looks SE.

The weather hadn’t changed much. Still overcast with a 10 mph breeze. Encouragingly, not a drop of rain so far. From HP5400, another ridge ran SE directly toward Mount Chester Henderson (6,300 ft.). While this ridge was no problem, exactly how to get to the summit wasn’t clear at all. Horizontal bands of rock ran all along a very steep upper rim.

On the ridge leading to **Mount Chester Henderson**. Photo looks SE.

I don’t know, Looper. Sure looks like a line of cliffs up there!

The trail keeps going, SPHP. Why don’t we just follow it?

Yeah, that did seem like the obvious thing to do.

Looking back down the **Charcoal Creek valley**. Photo looks W.

Near the end of the approach, the increasingly faint trail left the top of the SE ridge to skirt along the W side of a hill of scree. Once around this hill, Lupe lost 40 feet of elevation on the way down to a broad saddle of tundra. Another scree slope was now ahead with more tundra above it. Hundreds of feet higher, the line of cliffs along the upper rim of Mount Chester Henderson towered above all.

Skirting the **scree hill**. Photo looks SE.

Down at the **tundra saddle**. Photo looks SE.

So far, so good, SPHP.

True, but this is where it starts getting interesting, Loopster.

What was left of the trail clearly went right on up the scree slope ahead. Following it, Lupe reached the region of tundra above the scree. As the American Dingo kept climbing, she crossed little streams trickling down the increasingly steep slope.

Lupe was at about 5,800 feet when a choice had to be made. Impassable cliffs were directly ahead.

We either have to go E or W around these cliffs, Loop. Any ideas?

E, SPHP. The trail was trending that way when I last had a scent.

Yeah, I kind of thought E looked best, too, from a distance, Looper, but can’t see that territory now that we’re on this slope. The tundra extends even higher over toward the W. Looks a little like there might be a route up above it. Hard to say without climbing way up there.

Check your map, SPHP.

I already did, Loop. Definitely some easier territory over to the E toward Mount Robert Henderson, if we can get to it. Not sure if we can.

I vote E, SPHP.

It’s unanimous then, Loopster.

Angling ESE while still climbing, Lupe left the cohesive security of the tundra. Nothing but steep slopes of loose rock ahead. Surprisingly deep and steep ravines were sometimes negotiable, and sometimes forced the Carolina Dog higher. At 6,000 feet, the base of the cliffs was still quite a bit higher. They weren’t that big, but didn’t have any breaks that looked like reasonable routes through them.

On the increasingly **steep slopes**. **Mount Robert Henderson** (L). Photo looks E.

Lupe kept angling ESE. The steep loose slopes went on and on. Still no decent breaks in the cliff line above, and the L shoulder of the mountain still wasn’t in sight. SPHP was getting impatient. This cautious traverse while rocks clattered down the mountain was chewing up a bunch of time. Eventually, Lupe wasn’t that far from the base of the cliffs.

Near the **base of the cliffs**. Photo looks S.

The cliffs eventually began to shrink. Short chutes where it looked like it might be fairly easy to scramble above them appeared.

Let’s head up here, Loop.

SPHP soon regretted that decision. The cliffs bands were taller than they looked. Although there was some solid exposed bedrock, lots of the rock was rotten. The scramble got scary. It looked like there were plenty of pawholds, but big chunks that appeared well-anchored crumbled away and went crashing down the mountain.

Halfway up a near vertical section, nothing was solid. It all wanted to move. Somehow Lupe scrambled up to a dangerous little shelf above and to the R of SPHP. The American Dingo stood there on the brink of destruction smiling down on SPHP like everything was cool.

Stay put, Loop! Don’t move! Just stay right there! You’re in a terrible spot, and this whole chunk of the mountain I’m clinging to feels like it’s about to give way. If it starts to go, climb if you can, or you’ll go with me!

Heart racing, very carefully and gently, oh so gently, testing everything, SPHP managed to creep above the worst spot.

Didn’t listen to a word I said, did you, Looper? How did you get up there?

Still smiling, Lupe was higher yet, still above SPHP, but now to the L. A sense of relief flooded in over SPHP. She was at a much better spot. The top appeared to be only a few feet above the Carolina Mountain Goat.

You’ve got it made now, Loop. Just go to the top! I’ll join you shortly.

Lupe vanished above the rim. Not the top. The cliff bands extended 40 or 50 feet higher. Fortunately, none were as steep, loose, or dangerous as what had already been negotiated.

8-20-23, 6:33 PM – As the tilt of the cliff bands suggested, Lupe now stood on a gentle, tundra-covered slope above them, a grand panorama of an enormous valley before her with many ridges and mountains beyond it. The sky was no longer completely overcast, and regions of sunshine drifted over the scene.

The **grand panorama** above the cliffs. Photo looks S.

This is the side of the mountain we should have come up, SPHP. So easy!

Maybe we’ll be going back this way, Loopster. We’re sure not descending the same way we just came up. C’mon, the summit’s in sight off to the SW. Let’s get to the top of this beast!

Heading for **Mount Chester Henderson’s true summit** (L). Photo looks SW.

The true summit was a hill of talus, both farther back from the cliff line and farther SW than SPHP expected. Descending 50 feet on tundra to minimize the amount talus Lupe would have to cross to get there, the rest of the trek was a gradual ascent along tundra-covered slopes.

The summit hill proved to be an easy walkup.

Closing in on the **true summit** (R). Photo looks SW.

8-20-23, 6:53 PM, 46ºF, Mount Chester Henderson (6,300 ft.) – In a chilly 15 mph SW breeze beneath a partly cloudy sky, Lupe stood on the highest rock of a true summit region roughly 25 feet in diameter. This area was about as flat as it could be covered by big rocks.

At **Mount Chester Henderson’s true summit**. Photo looks WSW.

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.

Congratulations, Loop! We made it! I must commend your fearlessness and tremendous scrambling skills.

Oh, Ye of little faith! Was there ever any doubt, SPHP?

For a few minutes on those rotten cliffs, yes, I had serious doubts!

All the more reason to celebrate with a chocolate coconut bar, SPHP!

Certainly, but first, a look around. With so many clouds present, I don’t want to take a chance on the weather deteriorating and hiding everything.

Mount Chester Henderson’s summit was an amazing place! Far to the WSW, Mount Frank Rae (7,700 ft.), Mount Monolith (7,000 ft.), and even the tip of Tombstone Mountain (7,192 ft.) were all in sight, yet SPHP didn’t recognize them amid the gloom in that direction.

4.5 km NW, very easily recognizable, the American Dingo looked down on Goldensides Mountain (6,000 ft.), a summit where she had once been. Blackcap Mountain (6,000 ft.) was NE of Goldensides. Beyond these two, both Angelcomb Peak (6,300 ft.) and Trapper Mountain (6,627 ft.) were visible in the distance. Serrated Mountain was NNE.

**Goldensides** (Center), **Angelcomb Peak** (by Lupe’s ear), **Trapper Mountain** (R) above her back. Photo looks NW.

**Serrated Mountain** (L). Photo looks NE.

Zoomed in on **Serrated Mountain** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

The view of Mount Robert Henderson (6,998 ft.), only 3 km back to the ENE, was both awesome and discouraging.

Looks like could get pretty high, but realistically, I doubt Robert will ever be in the cards for us, Loopster. Appears beyond our capabilities.

Don’t give up so easy, SPHP. The back side might not be that bad.

Well, maybe. The topo map seems to agree with you, Looper, but, in any case, we don’t have time to check it out today.

**Mount Robert Henderson** (R of Center). Photo looks ENE.

Countless more mountains were to the S, none of which SPHP had any clue about. Looking down Mount Chester Henderson’s long SW ridge, the North Klondike River valley was flanked on both sides by some of these mountains as the stream flowed away to its eventual rendezvous with the Yukon River at Dawson City.

**North Klondike River valley** (L of Center), **Mount Chester Henderson’s SW ridge** (R). Photo looks SW.

Enough already, SPHP! How about that chocolate coconut bar?

Fine! Chilly up here in the wind, anyway. Please stay just another minute or two, Loop, then I’ll call you down, and we’ll take a break.

Atop **Mount Chester Henderson**, waiting for the signal. Photo looks SW.

That’s good, Loop! Come on down!

8-20-23, 7:10 PM – NE of the summit and 30 feet lower, Lupe rested on the tundra somewhat sheltered from the wind, enjoying a moment of sunshine until the next cloud would sweep by. SPHP shared not only a chocolate coconut bar, but beef jerky and water with the Carolina Dog, then let her polish off the rest of the Taste of the Wild.

While Lupe crunched away, SPHP munched on the last of the trail mix. Back to the NE, much of the region above the cliffs Lupe had crossed on the way here was in view, also in sunshine. Mount Robert Henderson was in shadow, but overall, the sky seemed to be clearing somewhat.

Resting **a little NE of the summit**. **Mount Robert Henderson** (R). Photo looks NE.

Have you decided yet how were going to get down, SPHP? Are we going to explore the valley to the SE? Looks beautiful and easy. No cliffs that way!

If we have to, we will, Loop. I checked the map. We wouldn’t have to ford the North Klondike River in order to get back to the Dempster Highway, but I’m afraid that once we got low enough, we’d wind up in an atrocious wilderness bushwhack.

What else can we do, SPHP?

We’re going to go back the way we came, Loopster, but farther E toward Mount Robert Henderson. I want to see if we can just go around the E end of the cliffs, and still get back to the Charcoal Ridge Trail.

The views were magnificent. The time flew. Too bad about the fiasco with the poles. Lupe should have had hours to roam around exploring up here. However, as things stood, the sun was sinking, and it was a long way back.

45 minutes after arriving, Lupe returned to the summit. The chill SW breeze was still blowing, but it was sunnier now.

Back at the **summit**. Photo looks SSW.

One more look, and we better go, Loop. If we end up bushwhacking, I don’t want to be doing it in the dark.

It was all so beautiful! The most meaningful view, though, was to the NW where at least two peaks Lupe had been to years ago were in sight, Goldensides Mountain (6,000 ft.) and Angelcomb Peak (6,300 ft.).

That ridge in the distance, is that Surfbird Mountain (5,300 ft.), SPHP?

Maybe, but it’s too far away, Loop. I can’t tell for sure.

**Goldensides Mountain** (L), **Angelcomb Peak** (Center), **Blackcap Mountain** (R of Center), **Trapper Mountain** (R). Photo looks NW.

In the end, going farther ENE toward Mount Robert Henderson worked. Lupe avoided the cliffs, forced only to make a longer traverse along the steep loose slopes below them before rejoining the Charcoal Ridge Trail.

Contemplating **Mount Robert Henderson** (R) before heading over the edge and off to the L. Photo looks NE.

The sun was still up, and virtually all of Charcoal Ridge was in view as Lupe headed back to HP5400 where she would turn W and follow it. And then, the strangest thing happened.

Returning to **Charcoal Ridge** (foreground). **Peak 7200** (L), **Goldensides Mountain** (R). Photo looks WNW.

Approaching **HP5400** (Center). **Goldensides Mountain** (L), **Blackcap Mountain** (R), with **Angelcomb** **Peak** between them. Photo looks NW.

Without the least warning, or any precedent for it, the Carolina Dog was suddenly seized by a powerful sneezing fit.

What’s wrong, Loopster? Did you sniff something that got stuck in your nose? Come, let me take a look.

Lupe cooperated with an examination.

ACHOOO! Do you see anything in my nose, SPHP?

No. I don’t, but then it’s a long nose, and I can’t see far up it at all, Loop. Does it feel like you’ve got something stuck in there, or do you suddenly have allergies?

ACHOOO! I don’t know, SPHP. What are .. ACHOOO, allergies? ACHOOO, ACHOOO!

An instant onset of a formerly unknown allergy seemed unlikely, but SPHP had no way of seeing, much less removing, whatever had flown up the American Dingo’s nose. No amount of sneezing, no matter how Dingo-shaking seemed capable of dislodging the culprit, either.

Lupe shook her head violently after each mighty ACHOOO to no effect, which surely must have detracted from her enjoyment of the gorgeous trek down Charcoal Ridge. (End, 11:20 PM, 49ºF)