Day 37 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!
7:15 AM, 41°F, Tormented Valley, British Columbia – The rain had ended within an hour of when Lupe arrived last night, yet the morning dawned cool, breezy and still drearily overcast. The higher peaks were scraping the clouds. A brief light shower blew through. Didn’t look much like rain, but the uniformly dull sky didn’t appear likely to improve, either. Not a very nice day for Peak6053.
A chilly, overcast morning in the Tormented Valley.
10:34 AM, 46°F – Waiting hadn’t helped, at least not enough. Slightly warmer out, but otherwise little change. Frustrating, but might as well admit defeat. Peak6053 wouldn’t be any fun under these conditions. A year ago, Lupe had enjoyed a such fabulous day on the International Falls trail here that returning to climb nearby Peak 6053 had become a priority this year. The American Dingo would have had an even more spectacular view of a sea of tremendous snowy peaks in Alaska!
Not happening. Not today. The G6 needed an oil change. Should at least get that done, instead of letting the whole day go to waste.
11:44 AM, 54°F, Whitehorse, Yukon Territory – Brilliant! An hour’s drive to Whitehorse only to realize that it was Sunday. So much for getting an oil change. The good news was that the weather was much better here than back in the Tormented Valley. Blue skies, puffy clouds, less wind, and warmer. Lupe could do something here, but what?
Surprisingly, the Whitehorse visitor center was open. Loop waited in the G6, while SPHP went in. SPHP wasn’t finding much of potential interest to a peakbagging Dingo until picking up a pamphlet entitled “Wildlife in Whitehorse”. Inside were brief descriptions of 15 different locations in or around Whitehorse to see wildlife. One in particular stood out:
14 – Grey (or Canyon) Mountain is the prominent landmark southeast of Whitehorse. About 6 km up the Grey Mountain Road (off of Alesk Drive in Riverdale) a small viewpoint overlooks the Yukon River valley. You may want to continue up the road by foot or mountain bike to the sub-alpine areas for a chance to see Dall Sheep or ptarmigan. The road is not maintained beyond the viewpoint and is not suitable for vehicle travel.
Grey Mountain(4,901 ft.) sounded promising! Maybe Lupe could get in a peakbagging success today after all? A map on the reverse side of the pamphlet showed how to get there.
From the SS Klondike at the S end of downtown Whitehorse, go SE on the bridge over the Yukon River. Hang a L on Alsek Drive, and another one on Grey Mountain Road.
Grey Mountain Road was paved at first, but eventually turned to gravel. It was fine for the 6 km mentioned in the pamphlet all the way to a big pullout on the R. A map posted here showed an extensive trail system, including a summit trail that continued on from the end of Grey Mountain Road. Sweet!
SPHP sort of expected to see the small viewpoint overlooking the Yukon River at this pullout, but maybe the trees had grown up enough to hide the view? At any rate, it didn’t seem to be here. This was probably the end of the maintained road, but the road continuing on past the pullout didn’t look that bad. Since it was already afternoon, and still quite a long way to the end of Grey Mountain Road, SPHP drove on.
Yeah, this was the unmaintained road alright! It quickly turned rough – deep potholes, large stones, and ridges of exposed bedrock. No big deal in a high clearance vehicle, but pretty terrible for the G6. Driving very slowly and carefully, SPHP navigated another km up the obstacle course to a little spot where the G6 could get off the road. Upon parking here, the Carolina Dog immediately leapt out.
A moment later, she leapt back in. Nope, Lupe wasn’t going to do this!
Why not? Grey Mountain Road had gone past a shooting range before reaching the big pullout at the end of the maintained road. Nothing makes intrepid explorer and adventurer Lupe as nervous as the sound of gunfire, no matter how distant. Of course, she had heard some.
So SPHP got back in, and continued the ill-advised drive. After getting quite a bit farther this time, SPHP parked at another little off-road spot. Safety first! Big Chicken still refused to get out. SPHP finally caught her and physically dragged her out. As soon as Loop realized she could no longer hear shooting, she was fine.
3:16 PM, 52°F – Lupe still had a good road hike ahead of her as she set off for Grey Mountain(4,901 ft.). Heading SE along the mountainside, she passed through a forested gap, then arrived at a better part of the road where the mountain dropped off steeply to the S.
Grey Mountain Road isn’t bad here! Still a bit of a trek to the end, though. Photo looks SE.
Rounding a corner, two towers came into view. The road curved along the side of a big drainage, switchbacked higher, then curled around the S end of Grey Mountain before turning N. Once up to the S end, Lupe had a grand view of the Yukon River valley all the way to Marsh Lake.
The road ends up at those towers (Center)!At the S end of Grey Mountain. The Yukon River flows this way from Marsh Lake seen in the distance on the L. Mount Lorne(6,629 ft.) is on the R. Photo looks SE.
Grey Mountain Road climbed steeply shortly before ending at a parking area near the towers. The towers were fenced off, but Lupe was free to get up on a big wooden platform nearby.
On the wooden platform near the towers at the end of Gray Mountain Road. Photo looks SSE.
Although the absolute summit wasn’t in view from the platform, Lupe could see Grey Mountain ahead to the NNW. A trail was visible on the ridge leading to it. Getting to Grey Mountain was going to be a cinch!
Grey Mountain from the wooden platform. The summit trail follows the ridge on the R. Photo looks NNW.
The journey along the ridge was gorgeous! Beneath blue sky and white clouds, bushes blazed in the golds, oranges, and crimsons of autumn amid scattered deep green conifers and light grey rock. The trail climbed at an easy to moderate pace with only a few steep sections.
The summit trail goes up Grey Mountain (L) from the R. Photo looks NNW.Lupe gained 1,000 feet of elevation during her stroll up Grey Mountain Road. From the wooden platform near the towers, the summit of Grey Mountain is only another 700 feet higher.Cantlie Lake. Photo looks E.The early autumn colors were gorgeous!Getting closer! The trail stays to the R here.Looking back toward the towers. Mount Lorne (L) in the distance. Photo looks SSE.Nearing the top! Photo looks NW.
When Lupe reached the high point visible from the wooden platform, she was at the S end of a large summit ridge. This ridge was lumpy with many exposed light grey rock formations, and still rose gradually toward the N. Low bushes and sparse tundra were present, but almost no trees grew up here, so Lupe already had tremendous views.
At the S end of Grey Mountain’s long, broad, lumpy summit ridge. Photo looks NNW.Chadburn Lake (Center & R) from Grey Mountain. The lake on the L is actually part of the Yukon River. Photo looks SW.
Exploring N along the broad, lumpy ridge, Lupe searched for the true summit. She often had a choice of trails to follow. A succession of high points led to a survey marker with an arrow pointing toward one more high spot, the apparent true summit of Grey Mountain.
Continuing N looking for the summit.The survey marker at the last high point before the true summit.The true summit (Center) from close to the survey marker. Photo looks N.Beautiful tundra.
Between the survey marker and the summit, Lupe came to a wide gash 40 or 50 feet deep that sliced across the entire ridge. The sides of the gash were fairly steep, but the American Dingo had no problem getting across the gash to reach the top of Grey Mountain(4,901 ft.).
By the edge of the gash before crossing it. Photo looks E.The NW end of the gash.Looking WNW while climbing out of the gash.
The summit of Grey Mountain was a flat mini-ridge superimposed upon the rest of the mountain. Metal bars stuck up out of the ground here, but Loop did not find another survey benchmark. Low bushes grew around the perimeter of the mini-ridge, while the center was nearly barren.
On top of Grey Mountain. The gash Lupe had just crossed is on the R. Photo looks SE.Exploring the mini summit ridge. Photo looks NNW.Blending in with the golden bushes. Photo looks NNE.At the high point. Photo looks SE.Loopster looking pensive at the true summit of Grey Mountain.
SPHP congratulated Lupe on climbing Grey Mountain(4,901 ft.). She gracefully accepted the praise, but what the Carolina Dog really wanted was protection! She had been hearing gunfire again for a while now, and had been gently begging SPHP to comfort her.
Of course, sweet puppy!
At the top of Grey Mountain, SPHP sat facing SW with a panoramic view of a vast region of magnificent Yukon territory. The air was getting a bit chilly again. Wrapped in a purple pullover, Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap to be loved and petted.
More than half an hour went by, during which Lupe gazed calmly upon splendid scenes. Directly ahead to the SW, was a fabulous view of the mighty Yukon River valley. Snowy peaks mostly hidden by clouds were far to the S. Mount Lorne(6,229 ft.) was in the same general direction, but somewhat closer. To the SE, the Yukon River stretched all the way to Marsh Lake on the horizon.
Looking back toward the gap Lupe had crossed to get to the summit of Grey Mountain. Mount Lorne in the distance on the L. Photo looks S.Chadburn Lake and the Yukon River valley. Photo looks SW.Marsh Lake (R of Center) in the distance. Yukon River valley (R). Photo looks SE.
Whitehorse, capitol city of the Yukon Territory, was off to the NW. Cantlie Lake was back to the E. To the NE were unknown mountains higher than Grey Mountain that looked like relatively easy climbs.
Whitehorse with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NW.Higher peaks to the NE.
Clouds repeatedly cast Grey Mountain into shadow. Even when Lupe was in sunshine, it wasn’t warm out. Well into September now. Time was running out on this Dingo Vacation. Depending on the weather in the next day or two, it was possible Grey Mountain might be the last Yukon peak Lupe would ever climb. Such a gloomy thought!
Lupe would have liked to stay even longer relaxing and enjoying the views. She was right, so incredible here! However, another mini-ridge was a little farther N beyond another smaller gash. Since it looked close to being in contention for the title of true summit of Grey Mountain, the Carolina Dog really ought to go tag that high point, too.
The next mini-ridge to the N (Center) of where Lupe and SPHP had been relaxing. Photo looks N.
Getting over there took only a few minutes. At about the highest spot, Looper found a collection of rocks. A tumbled down cairn? Maybe this actually was the true summit of Grey Mountain? Admittedly a close call, but SPHP still thought the first mini-summit ridge was a bit higher. Hardly mattered. Lupe had been both places now.
At the possible tumbled down cairn at the high point of the N mini-ridge. SPHP still thought the true summit of Grey Mountain was on the first mini-ridge (R) Lupe had been to, but it was a close call. Photo looks SSE.
Lupe explored the second mini-ridge a bit farther N. She didn’t get much beyond the wrecked cairn before the mountain began to drop away. Clearly, nothing higher was ahead. This was the end.
About as far N on Grey Mountain as Lupe went. Photo looks N.Cantlie Lake with help from the telephoto lens. Marsh Lake (R) is in the distance. Photo looks SE.
The return trip was a beautiful, easy trek. Lupe never did see any Dall sheep on Grey Mountain, but she did spot a ptarmigan.
The pamphlet was right! Lupe did see a ptarmigan on Grey Mountain.
All too soon, the towers at the end of Grey Mountain Road were in view again.
On the way back. Photo looks SE.Approaching the towers. Part of Grey Mountain Road is seen on the R. Photo looks SSE.
The downhill road trek was pleasant enough, but couldn’t compare with being up on the trail. Lupe was happy, though. She was leading the way back to the G6, a bumpy return ride to the maintained road, and dinner.
Trudging along behind that curly tail in the shadow of the mountain, SPHP couldn’t help but think about what an unexpected and fabulous peak Grey Mountain had been. The perfect end to what had begun as a dismal day! (8:37 PM, 56°F)
Days 33-35 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!
9-5-18, 8:04 AM, 39°F, Denali State Park – Blue skies! An encouraging start. Maybe today was the big day when Lupe would finally get to climb Reindeer Hills(5,102 ft.)? Warming the G6 up a bit, SPHP drove NE on George Parks Highway No. 3. During a quick stop at the Little Coal Creek trailhead (MP 163.9), Lupe stretched and sniffed around, while SPHP got ready for the Reindeer Hills.
A mile back, SPHP had driven past the Denali North viewpoint. Better check that out before continuing on to the Reindeer Hills!
The Denali N viewpoint is at MP 162.9 of George Parks Highway No. 3. The Denali S viewpoint is at MP 135.2. Lupe had been to the S viewpoint a couple of days ago.
Any day an American Dingo gets to see Denali(20,310 ft.) is a great one! Lupe had been to Denali State Park in both 2016 and 2017, but apart from a couple of brief partial glimpses, the highest mountain in North America had always remained hidden among the clouds.
However, today was a great day! Gleaming white against the blue sky, Denali was out in the open, along with a host of other mighty peaks of the Alaska Range.
Denali looms far beyond mountains on the NW side of the Chulitna River valley. Photo looks WNW.Jagged peaks of the Alaska Range. Photo looks WNW.Incredible snowy peaks like these were mere foothills compared to Denali.
Lupe had already seen Denali from the South viewpoint a couple of days ago. SPHP was of the opinion that the S viewpoint actually provided a better look at the monstrous mountain.
However, on the way to the Reindeer Hills, well out of Denali State Park along George Parks Highway No. 3, Lupe had even better views of Denali right from the highway. Far more of the frozen giant was in sight. Even from 45 miles away, the towering height and sheer massiveness of the world’s coldest mountain outside of Antarctica was incredible to behold!
Denali from George Parks Highway No. 3 NE of Denali State Park. Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.
Approaching Cantwell, the Reindeer Hills came into sight, mere blips in comparison with Denali, but nevertheless, an exciting and challenging peakbagging prospect for Lupe and SPHP.
Approaching the Reindeer Hills. Photo looks NE.
The key question was how to access the Reindeer Hills(5,102 ft.)? At Cantwell, SPHP turned E on Denali Highway No. 8, which soon turned to gravel. The high point of the Reindeer Hills is only a couple of miles N of the highway 6 or 7 miles E of Cantwell. However, all through this area, the road stayed S of a heavily forested creek drainage.
Loop would have to battle through a lengthy stretch of trackless forest and bogs, crossing the unseen stream somewhere along the way, before reaching the lower slopes of the Reindeer Hills. The prospect seemed daunting. 8 miles from Cantwell, SPHP parked the G6 by a lovely little lake on the S side of the highway. Lupe got out for a look around, while SPHP paused to consider her options.
By the lovely pond 8 miles E of Cantwell. Photo looks SW.
Gazing at the Reindeer Hills high point, the mountain looked like an easy climb, if only Lupe could get to it!
Reindeer Hills high point from the parking area by the little lake. Photo looks NW.
Pondering the situation, getting across the hidden stream seemed to be the crucial issue. The topo map showed the creek being closest to the highway a couple of miles back W where it joined a tributary of the Jack River. W was sort of bad, though, because that was in the downstream direction. Even before reaching the Jack River tributary, the stream would be bigger. On the other paw, the stream was so close to the road there, it wouldn’t take Loop long to get to it. She would find out very quickly if fording the creek was realistic or not.
May as well give it a shot! SPHP drove back to the tributary of the Jack River, parking the G6 at a pullout on the SE side of the highway just N of the tributary. Full of enthusiasm, the American Dingo hopped out to give it a go. (9-5-18, 11:52 AM, 51°F)
Looking down the tributary of the Jack River right after it flows under Denali Highway No. 8. Photo looks WNW.The Reindeer Hills high point (R of Center) from S of the tributary of the Jack River. The stream Looper needed to get across is hidden in the lowlands beyond her on the far side of the tributary. Photo looks NNE.
Lupe and SPHP headed N from the highway into a flat region densely covered with bushes. The bushes were only a few feet high, but to Lupe, they formed practically an impenetrable jungle. Although this area looked flat, before she made it very far, the terrain was pockmarked with holes full of water 2 or 3 feet deep. Nevertheless, Loop managed to thrash through it all until she was roughly 300 feet from the highway, where she reached the S bank of the stream she needed to cross.
The stream was only a few feet wide, but fast-flowing. The water was easily over Lupe’s head and SPHP’s knees, and perhaps deeper than that. Hard to tell. The tightly packed bushes along both banks made the prospect of getting into or out of the stream look troublesome at best.
SPHP didn’t like it. Lupe might easily get swept downstream out of sight in the frigid waters of the powerful current. Unable to touch bottom, what if she couldn’t escape the deep narrow channel? SPHP wouldn’t be able to get to her in time to help her.
No, not worth it. Maybe the confluence of this stream and the tributary of the Jack River would be an easier spot to cross?
Trying to get the confluence, Lupe fell into one of the waterholes among the bushes. She managed to scramble out, cold and wet, but didn’t care for the experience. Loopster wanted to head back to the highway. She did, too. All by herself. SPHP could explore this morass alone!
SPHP had to plead with Looper to give it one more try. Reluctantly, she did, but the confluence of the streams presented no better opportunity to cross. Alright, forget about it! Not happening! The Carolina Dog was plenty happy to return to the G6. (9-5-18, 12:21 AM, 51°F)
Much closer to Cantwell, a couple more possibilities were checked out where Lupe wouldn’t have had to cross any streams. However, potential private property issues cropped up. This area was miles from the high point of the Reindeer Hills, anyway. Already afternoon, and too late in the day to consider an attempt, even if clean access had been found.
No Reindeer Hills! Most disappointing. What to do? Seemed terrible to waste the rest of such a beautiful day, but after Loopster’s big trek up to Ermine Hill(2,700 ft.) and Peak3700 on K’esugi Ridge yesterday, maybe a day of rest was a good thing. The plan became to drive back to Palmer, where Loop could take on Matanuska Peak(6093 ft.) tomorrow.
Denali again from George Parks Highway No. 3 in the afternoon. Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.Another look with even more help from the telephoto lens.
9-5-18, 7:57 PM, Wasilla – Not even 8:00 PM, yet the sun hung low in the W. The days were noticeably shorter now than a few weeks ago when the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood had returned to the far N. Kind of sad. Lupe’s time in Alaska was running out.
9-6-18, 6:50 AM, Palmer – Surprisingly dark. Only partially due to the changing season, though. The sky was all a depressing gray. The pointy summit of Matanuska Peak(6,093 ft.) was in view beneath the clouds, but perhaps not for much longer. Within 10 minutes, a light rain set in. Too bad.
Might as well face it. Matanuska Peak wasn’t going to happen for Lupe, either. Suddenly it was clear that the long road home had already begun when the Carolina Dog left the Reindeer Hills behind yesterday. After stops at Fred Meyer’s for groceries and fuel, SPHP drove out of Palmer heading E on the Glenn Highway. Lupe stared out the window of the G6 as the windshield wipers slapped away the rain, and the miles rolled by.
More than 3,000 miles to go! Lupe’s adventures on this Dingo Vacation weren’t over yet. She still had time, extra days she could spend along the way. Surely, fabulous mountains were still to come. A little cooperation from the weather was all it would take. The American Dingo was merely on the road again, looking for fun!
9-6-18, 10:15 AM, 41°F, Gunsight Mountain trailhead – Forgetting about Matanuska Peak had been the right thing to do. By the time Lupe made it to Gunsight Mountain(6,441 ft.), all was mist and fog.
At the Gunsight Mountain trailhead, MP 118.5 of the Glenn Highway.
Loopster had already climbed Gunsight Mountain in 2016, but nearby Syncline Mountain (5,471 ft.) was of interest, too. Not for today, but in the hope that Lupe might return to Alaska someday, SPHP wanted to check out the Syncline Mountain access situation. A map at the Gunsight Mountain trailhead showed possible access from Belanger Pass.
Map posted at the Gunsight Mountain trailhead.
Some sort of route to Belanger Pass left the Glenn Highway at MP 123.3, only 5 miles E of here. Since it was on the way, Lupe and SPHP went to check it out.
At MP 123.3, a decent road left the N side of the highway. SPHP drove a couple of miles along it before deciding to turn around at a giant mud hole that covered most of the road. On the way out, a man was outside working on a deck for his summer home. Lupe and SPHP stopped to chat with him. He said the G6 could make it to a parking area about 3.5 miles shy of Belanger Pass. A 4WD road went over the pass and 40 miles beyond it.
Interesting, and hopefully helpful on some future date. SPHP thanked him for the information. Lupe and SPHP then went on, but not before getting a photo of the spiffy sign this guy had posted along the road not far from his driveway.
On the road to Belanger Pass. Syncline Mountain is the long ridge in the fog. Easily amused, SPHP liked the sign. Photo looks NW.
9-6-18, 1:07 PM, 50°F, Copper River overlook – The journey E continued. The miles rolled by. Lupe didn’t escape the G6 again until she was at the Copper River overlook one mile E of Gakona Junction along the Tok Cut-off. The sky remained dull and gray, but the rain and mist were over.
At the Copper River overlook a mile E of Gakona Junction.
Lupe and SPHP had often stopped here to see the magnificent view of the Copper River, but had always gone on after a few minutes. Having been cooped up in the G6 for most of a day and a half, though, Loop was anxious for action. A dirt road headed down into the river valley. Never explored it before. Maybe Lupe would enjoy a little romp to see what was down there?
Oh, yes! Lupe heartily approved of this plan. She raced ahead going back and forth checking trees for squirrels.
The road leading down from the bluffs to the Copper River.
After losing roughly 100 feet of elevation, the road curved sharply NE, then leveled out only a few feet higher than the river. Lupe and SPHP continued along the road gaining vastly different impressions.
The hike was pleasant enough. Both sides of the road were lined with trees and bushes. However, since the road always remained 10 to 20 feet from the river’s edge, and the intervening strip of land was heavily wooded, SPHP was disappointed that the Copper River was never in sight. Loopster, on the other paw, was thrilled! The trees harbored a lively squirrel population.
What joy! Everywhere she went, all up and down the road, Lupe found more squirrels to bark at.
This is the best idea you’ve had in a while now, SPHP!
One would think this road might eventually lead to river access at some point, but to Lupe’s great delight the road went on and on, never getting any closer or farther from the river. Meanwhile, the woods provided a steady supply of squirrels that needed a good barking at. That was fine for a while, but after 0.33 mile, SPHP insisted upon pushing through the narrow woodlands to the edge of the Copper River.
Hmm. Water was way up against the bank, putting an end to any dreams of a stroll out on a nice long exposed stretch of riverbed.
Too bad you didn’t bring a raft, SPHP. That would have been quite an adventure! Lupe by the Copper River.
9-6-18, 8:30 PM, Donjek River, Yukon Territory – The Copper River had been the highlight of the day. 456 miles from where she’d left Palmer, Alaska this morning, Lupe arrived at another mighty river, the Donjek, in the Yukon Territory. Clouds had spit rain on and off all day long.
There was a glorious mountain here S of the river. SPHP had taken to calling it Donjek Crossing Mountain. Ever since Lupe had first crossed the Donjek River in 2016, thought had been given to climbing it, but the weather hadn’t ever cooperated. Wasn’t looking all that promising this evening, either, but who knew what the morning might bring?
In any case, stopping here for the night. Going to give it a chance. The Donjek River was very low. As day turned to dusk, the Carolina Dog had a fabulous time wandering up and down exposed riverbed with SPHP.
Donjek Crossing Mountain beyond the Alaska Highway bridge over the Donjek River. Photo looks ENE.
9-7-18, 6:10 AM, Donjek River – Light out, but the news was as expected. An hour and a half ago, it had been raining. No rain now, but heavily overcast. SPHP petted Lupe, and got an enthusiastic licking in return. No huge rush, may as well sleep in a bit. Not likely, but maybe the sky would clear?
9-7-18, 8:48 AM, Donjek River – No change. Low ceiling. Simply dismal. Donjek Crossing Mountain, along with every other high point, was cloaked in clouds. Otherwise nice enough out, but no point in climbing anything only to spend the whole day lost in a fog.
Lupe still managed to have a fun morning constitutional romp along the mighty Donjek River, though, before pressing on.
Even without being able to see the mountains, the Donjek River is still an impressive sight, isn’t it? Think of how enormous it must be during the spring snow melt! Photo looks SW.
The weather gradually improved on the road S. By the time Loop got to Kluane Lake, patches of blue sky were visible off to the E. However, the visitor center at the SW end was closed when she arrived. A few miles farther, Lupe and SPHP stopped again at a big pullout at the far S end of the lake.
S shore of Kluane Lake. Photo looks N.
This pullout is a favorite spot. Lupe had first been here in August, 2016 only a few months after an incredible change occurred. In May, 2016, Kluane Lake’s principal water source was naturally diverted elsewhere. Meltwaters from the Kaskawulsh Glacier broke through a former ice barrier, and completely changed course. Instead of flowing N into the Slims River and Kluane Lake, the meltwaters now flowed E into the Kaskawulsh River.
This dramatic change had happened practically overnight. Sadly, the water level in Kluane Lake has been dropping ever since. The lake was still huge and beautiful, but noticeably lower again this year. Lupe and SPHP spent a little while enjoying the lake, the mountain views, and a few rambunctious Dingo games.
Sheep Mountain(6,400 ft.) from Kluane Lake. Lupe had climbed Sheep Mountain in 2017. Photo looks NW.Oh, I know! How about a game of chase?
Light rain fell in Whitehorse when SPHP stopped for supplies, although it had been merely cloudy on the way here from Kluane Lake. The rain didn’t last, and by evening Lupe was back in Alaska! With 2 big cruise ships in port, Skagway was busy.
The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood dropped by the Arctic Brotherhood building, just to let them know they still have some competition. Then she took a stroll down to see the cruise ships, before finishing up her tour with a sight-seeing drive out to Dyea.
Lupe visits the old Arctic Brotherhood building in Skagway, now a tourist information center.The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood returns! Lupe joined the Arctic Sisterhood when she climbed AB Mountain(5,036 ft.) near Skagway in 2017.Checking out the cruise ships down by Taiya Inlet.So, SPHP. When are you going to take me on one of these? Dingoes love luxury you know!
For 3 days now, Lupe had been mostly on the road, taking her fun in bits and pieces at short stops along the way. Bigger opportunities for more than that hadn’t panned out. However, with any luck, tomorrow that would change. The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Circle would be hitting the trail to high adventure once again, right here in Skagway!
Day 19 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!
8-21-18, 10:44 PM, 32°F – Wind and cold rain continued, as Lupe and SPHP left Eagle Plains ahead of the expected blizzard. Within the first 10 minutes, two vehicles came the opposite direction, still heading N on the Dempster Highway, on the verge of reaching the safety of Eagle Plains. After that, there was no traffic at all. For more than half an hour, the G6 splashed on through countless puddles as the rain came down. Outside, the temperature never varied. Always 32°F.11:30 PM, 32°F – The dreaded blizzard had arrived! Snowing hard, but not sticking to the road yet. The blowing snow was difficult to stare into, a confusing, ever-changing, pattern of bright white streaks in the headlights against a black as deep as any stormy night anywhere.
Soon snow was clinging to bushes along the highway. Accumulations of slush started heaping up along the shoulders. Great sprays of water sent up from potholes sometimes inundated the windshield, momentarily blocking all view of the road before the wipers swept the water away.
Slush spread across the entire road, then turned white. On all the uphill sections, of which there were many, the traction control warning light started coming on, although the G6 didn’t seem to be slipping too badly yet. Only a matter of time, though, if the storm continued to rage.
Meanwhile, the G6 plowed along at a fairly steady 25 to 30 mph. The highway wound up, down, and all around one unseen hill after another. Fuel economy plunged as the G6 battled increasing accumulations of snow and slush. Maintaining speed on the uphill runs started to become difficult.
Afraid of how soft the shoulders must be, SPHP drove down the middle of the road. Virtually nothing could be seen alongside the highway now. As the snow deepened, SPHP started having a hard time telling where the road even was. Reflective km markers showed up well, but far too infrequently to be of assistance.
Sooner or later, the G6 wasn’t going to make it up one of these hills. The prospect of getting stuck in the the blinding snowstorm in the middle of the Dempster Highway in the dead of the night was terrifying. However, SPHP saw no pullouts where it would be possible to safely get off the road. Leaving the highway wouldn’t be all that wonderful, either. No doubt, it would mean being hopelessly snowed-in within no time.
The situation was becoming dire. Should have stayed at Eagle Plains! Days ago on the way N, Lupe had stopped at a huge pullout at Ogilvie Ridge. If the G6 could make it that far, Ogilvie Ridge would at least be a safe place to get off the highway. In this blizzard, though, SPHP wasn’t sure it would even be possible to recognize the pullout.
Suddenly, there was movement! A dimly perceived patchwork of light and dark was moving in the same direction as the G6 on the L side of the road. SPHP caught only a glimpse of it, as the G6 went by. A huge ghost of a moose! The American Dingo hadn’t seen a thing. For miles she had been trying to snooze as the G6 bumped, slipped, and lurched along.
8-22-18, 1:30 AM – Doomed! Heavy snow. Blizzard conditions. A wild wind was whipping the fast accumulating snow into drifts forming on the road. Huge snowflakes were a blinding white. Everything else was pitch black. Navigation was by long poles with reflectors on them that had fortuitously appeared on the L side of the nearly invisible highway a short time ago.
Would have been stuck already, if it hadn’t been for one thing. There didn’t seem to be any more uphill sections. For what couldn’t be much longer, the G6 was still moving. Inside, the Carolina Dog was snoozing peacefully, blissfully unaware of the storm.
1:50 AM – 70 to 75 miles S of Eagle Plains, SPHP caught a glimpse of a pullout on the L. Passed right on by it before even realizing what it was. That might have been Ogilvie Ridge! The road began dropping steadily, even steeply. Yeah, that confirmed it! This was Seven Mile hill!
No going back now, but maybe it didn’t matter? As the G6 lost elevation, conditions were rapidly improving.
2:00 AM – Luck of the Dingo! Amazing! Drove out of it! Heavy snow was now only a moderate rain. 34°F! Down in the Ogilvie River valley, the Dempster Highway was sloppy wet, but snow-free. The G6 bounced along through potholes sending up sprays of water as before. Passed a rest area at Davies Creek, but didn’t stop. Windy Pass and North Fork Pass are still ahead.
The rain tapered off before reaching the bridge over the Ogilvie River, but soon after crossing it, the snow started in again on the long approach to Windy Pass. The adrenaline rush of the white-knuckle drive prior to Ogilvie Ridge was fading. The weather this far S was no where near as bad as it had been earlier. Not snowing that hard. Starting to seem like things are actually under control.
2:56 AM – A huge, level, snow-free pullout had appeared on the R. Likely a road maintenance area. Whatever. Hadn’t made it to Windy Pass yet, but SPHP was weary. The crisis seemed to be over. Time to join Lupe in Dingo Dreamland!
9:36 AM, 32°F – A certain well-rested Dingo wanted out. Fine, fine! SPHP let her go. Blizzard? What blizzard? No snow here! Sure enough, Lupe was at a highway maintenance area somewhere close to km 171 on the W side of the Dempster Highway. Any snow that had fallen here last night had all melted as it hit.
Still no telling what Lupe might find up at Windy Pass, though. Might be tons of snow up there? Couldn’t see a thing down here, except the usual fog and mist of the far N.
Had the blizzard been only a bad dream? Despite all the snow she’d seen before falling asleep, Lupe woke up to a snow-free world at a road maintenance area near km 171 of the Dempster Highway.Another day, another foggy start. Seems like that happens a lot in the Yukon. Of course, the way things had been going last night, it could have been worse. Much worse!
10:01 AM, Windy Pass, km 152.8 – The crisis actually was over. Lupe had been less than 20 km from Windy Pass. She arrived to find more fog and mist, but no snow, even up here. The big ridges S of the pass leading to Windy Pass Peak(5,249 ft.) and Peak5906 were a little white, but that was it.
Maybe a blizzard was still raging up at Eagle Plains and the Arctic Circle, but the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood had managed a successful escape!
Back at Windy Pass where Lupe had enjoyed such a great day on her exploration of Windy Pass Peak, Distincta Peak & Peak 5906 on the way N. The peaks were all hidden by fog this morning, but there was almost no snow. Photo looks S.
Lupe resumed her snooze at Windy Pass, while SPHP straightened up the G6, cleaned windows, and dealt with a few technical issues. Then the journey S continued. What to do next wasn’t entirely clear. The mist ended, and fog was decreasing as the cloud cover began to lift, but the mountain peaks were still hidden.
Heading up the Blackstone River valley SE of Windy Pass. Photo looks SW.
1:36 PM, 40°F – Lupe and SPHP stopped at the two-tier pullout on the E side of the Dempster Highway SE of Surfbird Mountain(5,300 ft.). This was a favorite spot, discovered in 2017, where there was a stream and a bubbling pond.
Lunch time! Chili and chocolate coconut bars were on the menu. The American Dingo kindly helped out with both, displaying considerable enthusiasm for the project. Afterwards, she explored among the bushes, and chased tennis balls SPHP threw for her.
SPHP pondered the situation. Should Loop go on to Dawson City? She still had more mountains to climb here in Tombstone Territorial Park, but as is so often the case, once again most of the Ogilvie Range was in the clouds. Surfbird Mountain wasn’t, but Lupe had climbed Surfbird last year.
Maybe it made sense to give Peak 5262 another shot? Stymied by bogs when Lupe had tried it on the way N nearly a week ago, she hadn’t even made it to the base of the mountain. However, it had looked like she might have been successful, if only SPHP had led her to the next ridge N instead of the way she’d actually gone.
Peak 5262 was back N, but only a dozen km. The mountain sat isolated out beyond the rest of the Ogilvie Range. The sky was looking better in that direction. If Peak 5262 worked out today, conditions might improve enough so Lupe could climb higher peaks around here tomorrow?
3:09 PM, 39°F, Blackstone River rest stop at km 107.6 – Yeah, coming back for another attempt on Peak 5262 made sense. It was too late in the day, and the weather wasn’t cooperative enough, to doing anything else. The only other option would have been to keep driving, and the Carolina Dog was sick of being cooped up in the G6. SPHP parked at the now familiar rest stop along the East Blackstone River.
The weather was improving as Lupe set out for a second attempt on Peak5262. This time, SPHP had her go N along the Dempster Highway far enough to get past all the streams preventing access to the second ridge W of the road.
W of the Dempster Highway starting for Peak 5262. Photo looks W.
Even though the second ridge was a bit higher than the first one, it still wasn’t very high. Lupe was soon up on top. From her prior experience with the first ridge, she knew what to expect next. A long, beautiful, but far more wearying march toward Peak 5262 than a nearly imperceptible slope merited.
The top of the ridge was a vast plain of spongy, tussocky tundra. On the way W, Lupe sought out minor highs points which might provide firmer footing. She came to one drainage that forced her to make a detour to the N. Although the top of the ridge looked flat as a pancake, it was anything but. Endless, unstable tussocks surrounded by holes made every step an adventure.
The American Dingo persevered, though, making steady progress. Blue sky was beginning to appear! This was turning into a fantastic day! Having seen the lay of the land once before, SPHP was buoyed by hope that Lupe would enjoy success this time around.
Maybe we’re going to make it this time? Looking good so far! Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.
The critical point of the journey came as Lupe drew near the W end of the ridge. Once she had made it far enough to see the broad saddle area between this low ridge and the base of Peak 5262, it became clear that she needed to go NW staying up on the high ground along the edge as long as possible before dropping down to the saddle.
Getting close to the W end of this ridge now. Photo looks W.Close to the far NW end of the low ridge. The plan is to head for Peak 5262’s long NE ridge seen beyond Lupe. Photo looks WNW.A pond near the W end of the ridge Lupe has been traveling. Photo looks SW.
Upon dropping down to the saddle, Lupe discovered small streams and bogs no matter which way she went. SPHP tussock-hopped past the first bog and small stream, while Lupe simply waded through.
However, getting through all the bogs wasn’t as easy as it seemed. Even after crossing the broad saddle, Lupe kept coming to more drainages and bogs as the terrain started sloping up again toward the base of Peak 5262. Luckily, none proved to be insurmountable obstacles.
Peak 5262 was just a big hill! Surely the American Dingo was going to make it now! As Looper worked her way up an increasingly steep slope toward Peak 5262’s NE ridge, confidence soared.
On the tundra, beyond the worst of the wetlands. Photo looks NE.Looking E back in the direction Lupe had come from. The high point at the NW end of the first ridge she had been on is the minor rise (Center) just beyond the foreground.
The NE ridge was still quite a march away. Lupe kept having to dodge bogs, drainages, and unexpected holes full of water. The tundra dried out to a degree as the climb steepened, but remained spongy, requiring significant effort.
The beautiful tundra, already sporting fall colors.
Lupe climbed and climbed. Though the terrain wasn’t all that steep, it was exhausting work. SPHP kept hoping the tundra would give way to rockier ground, but for a very long way it didn’t. The Carolina Dog came to a number of high points, but each time hopes that she had reached the NE ridgeline were dashed.
Finally, lanes of firmer ground did appear. These lanes had a base of very small rocks, the first rocks Lupe had come to on the entire journey thus far. Low red and gray-green vegetation grew on the rockier terrain, looking just like what Loop had seen a year ago in Alaska when she’d gone on her Stroll to the North Slope Knoll.
The narrow lanes of firmer ground helped tremendously. SPHP was able to quicken the pace significantly. Soon Lupe really was up on the NE ridgeline.
Peak 5262 as Lupe nears the NE ridgeline. The backpack sits on the shorter vegetation of the rockier ground. Staying to the R of the drainage seen ahead, Lupe ultimately climbed to the high point directly beyond her from the R. Photo looks SW.
SPHP had expected plenty of rockier terrain up on the NE ridgeline, but that wasn’t what Lupe found. In fact, the ridgeline wasn’t much of a line at all. Ahead was a very broad and steeper slope, comprised almost entirely of more deep, spongy tundra.
Peak 5262 had a lovely dusting of snow on top. The colors of the tundra below were absolutely gorgeous. However, it was now clear that Lupe wasn’t going to reach any significantly firmer ground until she got way up on Peak 5262’s steepest slopes near the summit.
Having anticipated an easier time on a rocky ridgeline, the trudge higher actually began as a tougher march than before.
Looking back down the NE ridge. Chapman Lake is on the L. Photo looks NE.
No turning back now, though! Onward!
Up ahead, a long line of bushes grew along a drainage. Lupe stayed to the R (NW) of it. However, this drainage split into two separate courses higher up. Lupe had to cross the smaller channel to the W. Happily, the smaller channel turned out to be dry, and not a problem. From then on, there were no real obstacles. Lupe angled SW toward a high, short ridge to the W, and upon reaching it, completed her ascent by switchbacking up the N face of the mountain.
Even the upper slopes of Peak5262 turned out not to be rocky, but at least the tundra wasn’t as thick. Peak 5262 had another surprise in store for Lupe, too. The dusting of snow near the top of the mountain wasn’t snow at all. Apparently last night’s blizzard had been an ice storm here. Freezing rain had coated the tundra with an amazing display of ice.
Where Lupe first reached the ice-encrusted tundra, the ice was melting. Higher up that wasn’t the case.About to start up the N face of Peak 5262. Lupe is already quite high on the mountain. Photo looks SSW.An icy display. Far more magnificent specimens were higher up.Looking down on the Blackstone River valley. Chapman Lake on the R. Photo looks NNE.Getting there! Last push to the top is dead ahead. Photo looks SW.An icy wonderland.
The top of Peak 5262 is rounded. Lupe arrived upon a summit area acres in size. The true summit was W of where the Carolina Dog came up, and was quite easy to spot. Not far from the N edge sat a short ridge resembling a marvelously bejeweled mini-pingo. This little summit ridge was only a few feet higher than the rest of the mountain.
The terrain begins leveling out as Lupe reaches a vast summit region. Photo looks W.The true summit (Center) comes into view. Photo looks W.Lupe reaches the wonderfully ice-encrusted true summit of Peak 5262. Photo looks S.At the beautifully decorated true summit. Photo looks W.Lupe on Peak 5262. Photo looks W.
When Lupe had first reached the NE ridge, large regions of blue sky had been expanding to the N. For a short while the Carolina Dog had been in sunshine. Now, though, the weather was clearly deteriorating. Couldn’t have been any more than 32°F. The incredible crystalline icy display was not melting up here. The slight N breeze felt cold.
Views from isolated, remote Peak 5262 were tremendous! Higher peaks were in the distance in many directions, but their summits were lost in clouds that already covered the whole sky. Fog was spreading to the S, although Surfbird Mountain(5,300 ft.) was still in sight.
To celebrate Loopster’s peakbagging success, SPHP shared 3 chocolate coconut bars with her. They were frozen so stiffly that it was hard to break off chunks.
High atop Peak5262, the darkening sky, cold breeze, and surrounding vast, desolate solitude produced a sudden sense of gloom and danger. It was absolutely incredible up here, yet SPHP grew uneasy. Lupe was a long way from the G6. Mountains were disappearing from the horizon. The cloud cover seemed to be closing in. If the morning’s fog returned, it would be easy to get lost.
Would have been fun to have the luxury of letting a sublime hour or two go by up on Peak 5262, but it didn’t seem like Lupe could afford to linger up here too long. Might as well have a quick look around, though. Loop ventured out to the far W end of the summit area. The Blackstone River was in view, even if the mountains weren’t.
The Blackstone River from the W edge of Peak 5262. Photo looks SW.Looking SW up the Blackstone River valley with help from the telephoto lens.View to the W with help from the telephoto lens.The top of Peak 5262 from the W edge. The true summit is the little rise seen directly beyond Lupe. Photo looks E.
The scenes were all impressively forlorn and desolate, but the clouds weren’t an awful lot higher than Peak 5262 now. Lupe returned to the true summit for another brief stay and final look around.
Near the true summit (L) again. Photo looks SE.Gorgeous now, but it wouldn’t have been much fun to have been up here last night!Looking WNW.The Blackstone River valley from the N edge of Peak 5262. Photo looks NNW.Chapman Lake (Center). Photo looks NE.
On the return, Lupe varied the first part of her route. Instead of going back down the steep N face, she followed the E ridge, which provided a more gradual descent.
Starting down, but still along the N edge. Lupe had originally come up the rather steep slope beyond her from the L. Chapman Lake is on the L. Lomond Lake is far away on the R. Photo looks NE.Lupe began her descent going down the E ridge (R). Photo looks E.Lomond Lake (Center) in the distance. The flat ridge Lupe had started out on is the slightly higher ground just L of the ponds on the R. Photo looks ENE.On the E ridge. The G6 is parked down by the river just about straight beyond Lupe. Photo looks E with help from the telephoto lens.
As soon as the American Dingo realized that she was actually on her way down, she became quite energized. Lupe ran and ran! She sniffed and explored, displaying great stamina and enthusiasm. The descent was a lot easier. SPHP made much faster progress. The spongy tundra merely served as a cushion, instead of an impediment. From above, SPHP was better at picking out drier, more efficient routes.
The E ridge soon curved NE creating a bowl to the W. This bowl was the origin of the last two drainages Lupe had come to on the way up. To get back to the lower portion of the NE ridge, SPHP led Loop down into the bowl so she could stay far enough W to bypass the deeper drainage. By the time Lupe made it to the lower end of the bowl, she had picked up her former route.
The long march still ahead was merely a retracement of what had been done before. Lupe eventually turned ESE, leaving the NE ridgeline. As the slope decreased, the labor of traveling the tussocky tundra returned. Back to dodging bogs, streams, and wet holes.
Despite the effort required, the return was a beautiful time. Lupe was happy, roaming free in an unspoiled world. SPHP was thrilled she had finally made it to Peak 5262! The sky remained overcast, but it wasn’t nearly so cold out as it had been back up on the mountain. The brooding clouds never came down far enough to threaten the lowlands with fog.
Though always challenging to move through, the tundra was amazing. Pristine beauty in all directions, including at one’s paws or feet. Lupe discovered a pink blossom so rare no others like it had been seen on the whole long journey. She found an ancient caribou antler, and learned that even excellent dental health isn’t everything.
One in a zillion! A rare pink blossom like no other Lupe had seen on the entire journey.Roaming free on the way back.Dental health is important, but it isn’t everything. Someone died with perfect teeth!
The morning’s mist and fog hadn’t held much promise, but Lupe’s ascent of lonely Peak 5262 had been a marvelous journey and sweet success! (9:38 PM, 33°F)
On Peak 5262, Tombstone Territorial Park, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-22-18
All too soon, the towers at the end of Grey Mountain Road were in view again.
