Dempster Highway – Page 2 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

On the Dempster Highway to Eagle Plains, the Arctic Circle & Northwest Territories, Canada (8-17-18 & 8-18-18)

Part 2 of Day 14 & Part 1 of Day 15 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

8-17-18, 1:20 PM, 53°F, km 224.5 – From Churchward Hill (2,871 ft.), Lupe had seen that, on the way to the Eagle Plain plateau, the Dempster Highway went N closely paralleling the Ogilvie River. However, out on the heavily forested floodplain beyond the last of the Ogilvie Mountains, the river was seldom in sight.

Approaching the Eagle Plain plateau, the highway curved NE and soon began an impressive climb up Seven Mile Hill. The Ogilvie River was now being left behind, but from the edge of the giant escarpment, Lupe could see it again off to the SE. Somewhere beyond vision E of here, the Ogilvie would join forces with the Blackstone to form the Peel River.

At km 259.0, the Dempster Highway reached its high point along the SE edge of the Eagle Plain escarpment 1,000 feet above the valley. A huge pullout was here, plus the added convenience of an outhouse. Lupe had reached Ogilvie Ridge.

Ogilvie Ridge was a popular spot. As many as 6 or 7 vehicles were present at any given time. The day was still heavily overcast, and the cold S wind still blew. People came and went quickly. In no rush to get back out into the wind, Lupe and SPHP waited. More than 20 minutes went by, before a moment arrived when no one else was around.

Lupe and SPHP left the G6 to experience the gray, wind-swept solitude of Ogilvie Ridge.

At **Ogilvie Ridge**, km 259.0 of the Dempster Highway.

The Ogilvie River valley stretched from the S to the E. Beyond the broad, green valley, rose distant gray peaks of the Taiga Range. Churchward Hill had provided far superior views of the Ogilvie River, but for being right along the highway, Ogilvie Ridge wasn’t a bad vantage point at all.

The **Ogilvie River valley** from **Ogilvie Ridge**. Photo looks SE.

Lupe sniffed around in the bushes, while SPHP perused several colorful displays about the geological history of the region.

2:58 PM, 47°F – Continuing N from Ogilvie Ridge, the Dempster Highway kept climbing. The road wound around on big hills and ridges. This first part of the Eagle Plain plateau didn’t seem much like a plateau at all. Deep valleys flanked barren hills, but the hills were rounded, not flat.

3:22 PM – Shortly after passing what seemed to be the highway’s highest point in this region, a small pullout appeared. The long climb out of the Ogilvie River valley was over. Lupe stopped for a quick sniff. The Taiga Range of the Ogilvie Mountains could still be seen back to the SE. Ahead, the Dempster Highway kept winding N along a series of lower hills.

Probably wouldn’t have been too hard to take a stroll up to the top of the hill the pullout was on, but Loopster didn’t do it. Having already made it up Churchward Hill this morning, traveling in the comfort of the G6 on a windy, gray afternoon had its charms.

The now distant **Taiga Range** of the **Ogilvie Mountains** from near the high point of the Dempster Highway at the S end of the **Eagle Plain plateau**. Photo looks SE.

The Dempster Highway winds away across the **Eagle Plain plateau**. Photo looks N.

Lupe and SPHP kept going. The highway wound crazily around in what felt like a desperate attempt to stay up on a strip of hilly high ground. Up and down, this way and that, on and on!

Mountains faded away. Hills and ridges shrank. Often only the highway could be seen. Broad swaths of the spindly, Dr. Seuss trees of the boreal forest were clear cut away from both sides of the road. In their place, bushes thrived.

Despite the overcast sky, the road had been dry, or nearly so, ever since Churchward Hill. At km 335, though, suddenly the Dempster Highway was wet. Within minutes, SPHP drove into rain. The highway became slick and rough. Potholes were brimming with water.

There was supposed to be a viewpoint at km 347.0 where the Richardson Mountains could be seen for the first time. SPHP missed it, but did stop at a wet pullout that appeared a little farther on. Lupe got out for a look around, but no mountains were in sight. A vast, rolling plain stretched away into the fog.

5:38 PM, 44°F, Eagle Plains Hotel & Service Center, km 369.0 – It hadn’t been much farther to the first and only fuel available in the entire 369 km (229 miles) since way back at the start of the Dempster Highway. The Eagle Plains Hotel & Service Center, situated on a hill, probably offers fine views on a clear day, but Lupe arrived amid rain and fog.

With no clue as to how far it might be to the next gas station, a fuel stop was an absolute necessity. Eagle Plains was a full service station. Before SPHP could pump any gas, a relatively young man appeared. That was his job. Fill’er up?

Yes, please!

Asking was a mere formality. The attendant already knew the answer. When it’s 229 miles between opportunities, does anyone skimp? Way up here in the Yukon, it’s a helluva walk back to civilization. Conceivable that stroll might get a mite chilly, too, any time of year.

SPHP didn’t bother asking the price. Whatever it was, one just paid it, and felt fortunate to have the opportunity to do so. The receipt would reveal what a fabulous bargain SPHP had just made.

31.52 liters at $1.65 Canadian per liter came to $52.00 Canadian. That was the same as $39.80 US for 8.328 gallons, or $4.78 US per gallon at the current exchange rate.

Eh, not much worse than going to California, Looper!

Loop spotted a muster point nearby. Was that a requirement? SPHP didn’t know. No one else was mustering, but the American Dingo put in an appearance, just in case.

Nothing happened, though. Nobody came to muster with her, or even say what all the mustering was supposed to be about. Maybe it had been a long summer? Perhaps the local Canadians were sick and tired of mustering on these endless, blistering hot August days?

Loop mustering on yet another baking hot **Eagle Plains** summer day.

However, Loop didn’t get totally ignored in Eagle Plains. A doorman, snappily dressed all in black, came prancing jauntily over from the Eagle Plains Hotel. When he didn’t welcome the Carolina Dog to Eagle Plains, but instead leapt right up onto the G6, and started demanding rewards merely for the privilege of parking in the muddy parking lot, Lupe was pretty put out. The were-puppy appeared and barked ferociously at him. Of all the nerve!

Since Eagle Plains was the only civilized spot for such a long distance, SPHP felt that even if the doorman’s demands were outrageous, perhaps it was best to at least toss him a few raisins and cashews. The doorman was evidently satisfied. He eventually flew off, defusing the whole Dingo/doorman confrontation.

Dressed all in black, the Eagle Plains doorman comes over from the hotel to demand payment for the privilege of parking in the parking lot.

Pretty cheeky to hop right up on a G6 defended by a ferocious were-puppy, but it paid off! SPHP gave in, and bought him off with raisins and cashews.

The Dempster Highway crosses the Eagle River 9 km N of Eagle Plains. Despite its soaring name, the river wasn’t particularly inspiring. Murky brown water in what amounted to a big ditch. Since it was raining, the Eagle River hardly seemed worth stopping for. SPHP paused on the bridge, but only long enough for Lupe to get a look from the G6.

The **Eagle River** was more of a ditch full of muddy water than a scenic highlight.

6:35 PM, 44°F, km 405.5 – Other than the commemorative sign, there wasn’t much more to see here than at the Eagle River. Nevertheless, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was back! Lupe had reached the Arctic Circle again for the first time in nearly a year. It was a glorious moment! A moment destined to be prolonged.

The Arctic Circle featured a huge parking area with two entrances off the Dalton Highway. Two man-made attractions sat along the border of the muddy lot – the commemorative sign, and an outhouse. Of course, the big attraction was the invisible one, the unseen Arctic Circle itself. This was the edge of the true Arctic! Everything to the N was part of the fabled frozen land of the Midnight Sun.

Midnight Sun? The Carolina Dog hadn’t seen the sun all day. Rain, wind, fog! Beneath a leaden sky, it was darker and seemed later than it really was. Who knew what lay ahead? The highway had been greasy slick coming up out of the Eagle River valley. Rough and full of potholes after that. Maybe this was far enough? Maybe Loop ought to spend the night right here at the Arctic Circle?

As the evening wore on, dense fog turned the world a featureless gray. The rain increased in intensity. Traffic ceased. The windows fogged over. Dinner. A warm blankie. To the steady beat of rain on the roof, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood settled in for a snooze.

One of the displays – the most interesting one with a map.

At the start of the Land of the Midnight Sun.

Home for the night. The G6 did get moved farther from the sign, in case anyone else happened by.

8-18-18, 4:17 AM, km 405.5, the Arctic Circle – Light out, kind of. Still raining, still foggy. The growing light did nothing to dispel the gloom. Every time SPHP had woken up, it had been raining, not lightly, but steady. How much had fallen in the past 10 hours? Half an inch an hour, easy. Maybe double that. A regular monsoon!

What was the Dempster going to be like? A sea of mud? Maybe the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood wasn’t going any farther? Maybe she was stuck here, unable even to retreat? The poor G6 wasn’t exactly a Jeep, even if SPHP treated it like one.

Nothing to do about it now, though, except sit tight. The G6 wasn’t going anywhere. Not until SPHP saw similar vehicles out on the Dempster. Better safe here than sunk to the axles somewhere in the literal middle of nowhere.

5:54 AM – Brighter out, still socked in with fog, but the rain had finally let up. Only a light mist now. A few other vehicles had spent the night here. None had budged yet. Not a hint of activity. Certainly none on the highway. Lupe needed out. She made a quick tour of the area. From close to the commemorative sign, a couple of picnic tables sat in a flat area down an embankment. Bet those get a lot of use!

The rain started in again. Back to the G6! May as well snooze some more. “Well-rested” was the predicted future state of things.

The new day bore an uncanny resemblance to the old.

The Arctic Circle picnic area was deserted. SPHP suspected this was its natural state.

9:45 AM – Rain, rain, rain! Wind, too. It hadn’t rained all the time, but did more often than not. A flurry of activity had occurred around 9:00 AM, though. Two big white pick-up trucks started it off, charging by out on the Dempster Highway around 8:40 AM. A green van then appeared out of the N sending up a gigantic spray as it encountered long chains of pothole lakes upon the road.

Other vehicles came and went. People pulled in to use the rest room, or take a look at the commemorative sign. None of their vehicles, however, were as small and pathetic as the intrepid G6. The wait continued.

*You know, SPHP, if you’ve got such a thing for invisible circles, maybe we could try the Tropic of Cancer next time around?*

11:28 AM, 44°F – Alright! Still rainy, still foggy, but it must be OK out there. After a lull, a parade of vehicles had come by. Most were huge pickups, or other massive high-clearance 4WD’s of one sort or another. However, a number of sport utility vehicles, a small tour bus, and even a motor home had been by, too. And just lately, a couple of passenger cars and two motorcycles.

A guy came along on a bicycle, and disappeared over the embankment down toward the picnic tables. That was it! The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was on her way. Going N, too, not S!

It was slow going, but the Dempster Highway wasn’t nearly as muddy as SPHP had feared, as long as one stayed away from the shoulders. The road was rough, though, and full of potholes, each an abyss of unknown depth. The G6 crept along enduring one jarring jolt and drenching spray of dirty water after another, but Lupe was on move again.

There were places where the road was much smoother, pothole free, but they didn’t last long. Amazingly, only 10 minutes from the Arctic Circle, SPHP drove out of the rain. The windshield wipers had to be kept on to sweep away the filthy water still spraying up from the road. However, the fog had lifted a little, and it was possible to see.

Hills were ahead. Lupe was getting closer to the Richardson Mountains. The land was changing. What could be seen below the cloud cover was increasingly beautiful.

Loop out on a nice smooth stretch of highway after SPHP drove out of the rain.

**Foothills of the Richardson Mountains** are ahead. The highway stayed W of them.

The land became more beautiful as Lupe continued N.

12:38 PM, km 445.8 at the Rock River campground – After following a rip-roaring creek down to a low forested area, Lupe reached the Rock River campground at a bend in the Dempster Highway. As SPHP read the map, the campground was not actually on the Rock River, but on White Fox Creek, a major tributary.

It had taken an hour to drive 40 km (25 miles) to get here from the Arctic Circle. The campground, though open, was deserted. Time for lunch, and this appeared to be a great spot for a break from the rough ride N. While SPHP prepared a meal, Loopster made a thrilling discovery. This Arctic forest was full of squirrels!

So, Rock River campground became an instant hit. After lunch, Lupe and SPHP took a stroll around the entire campground loop. Like all the other streams that had been seen from the highway on the drive here, White Fox Creek was full bank to bank, practically at flood stage.

Lupe was more interested in sniffing eagerly from one promising tree to the next. To her everlasting delight, she frequently found a bundle of joy chattering away high above her. For a deserted campground, between the American Dingo and the squirrels, Rock River was a noisy place.

Relaxing at Rock River campground shortly before striking it rich with squirrels.

**White Fox Creek** was running high, full bank to bank.

2:19 PM, 48°F – No doubt the Carolina Dog would have preferred to stay at the Rock River campground a while longer to stake her claim in the great 2018 Yukon Squirrel Rush. And perhaps that would have been the better choice, but Lupe’s journey N continued.

Even before reaching the Rock River campground, the highway had been heading N along the W flank of the Richardson Mountains. Sadly, the mountains were completely lost in the clouds. Loopster had already gone by Mount Hare (4,070 ft.) without even seeing it.

Climbing out of the White Fox Creek valley, the Dempster Highway came to a high, rolling prairie. Large hills and ridges were to the NW, the still unseen Richardson Mountains to the E. This was a gorgeous area!

N of the Rock Creek campground, the Dempster Highway led to a gorgeous rolling prairie with big hills and ridges to the NW. Photo looks NNW.

The Richardson Mountains lie hidden to the R (E) of the highway. Photo looks NE.

Lupe had a few peakbagging candidates in the Richardson Mountains along in here, but none were worth an attempt given the weather. No point in putting out any big effort just to see nothing, and risk getting lost in the fog. Maybe the weather would be better on the return trip? Lupe could do her peakbagging then, SPHP reasoned.

A typical stretch of the Dempster Highway W of the Richardson Mountains.

Onward! The Dempster Highway started curving NE and climbing. Up, up! Views of the beautiful highlands became more spectacular, faded to gray, then vanished. The road wound ever higher past hillsides torn up during recent road construction. The highway leveled out. A parking lot appeared on the S side of the road. SPHP stopped.

3:11 PM, km 465.0 – Outside the G6, dense fog raced by driven onward by a 40 mph gale roaring out of the W. An uninviting, unforgiving world. This was it! Wright Pass (3,133 ft.), end of the Yukon Territory!

Incredibly, E of Wright Pass was an even more remote and mysterious land. A land neither Lupe nor SPHP had ever seen, or even been close to, before. Abandoning the G6, buffeted by the chill wind, together Loop and SPHP walked to the edge of the unknown to experience, for the first time, the Northwest Territories.

When she got there, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood couldn’t see a thing.

At **Wright Pass**, border of the Yukon Territory and Northwest Territories, Canada 8-18-18

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

The Dempster Highway Travelogue Guide

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The Ogilvie River & Churchward Hill, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-17-18)

Part 1 of Day 14 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

5:15 AM, Windy Pass summit, Dempster Highway km 152.8 – Enthused on the way back from Lupe’s grand success at Windy Pass Peak, Distincta Peak, and Peak 5906 yesterday, SPHP mentally had the American Dingo going from one peakbagging success to the next all the way up the Dempster Highway to Mount Sittichinli.

Silly delusions! As evening faded, clouds had swept over the entire sky. The wind picked up, and blew all night. This was Windy Pass, after all. Now dark clouds draped over the mountains looked like rain. Before long, it was raining. Felt like it could rain forever.

7:14 AM, 42°F – Surprisingly, on the drive N from Windy Pass, the steady rain quickly dwindled to a mere mist, though the sky remained heavily overcast. At km 166, an unusually colored stream appeared to the R (E) of the Dempster Highway. Light green to tan waters flowed over a bed of charcoal or rust-colored rocks. The overall effect was striking! SPHP stopped to let Lupe take a closer look.

Strikingly colored **Engineer Creek** at km 166 of the Dempster Highway.

A few km farther, a sign said “Red Creek”. However, Red Creek was only a tributary of the colorful stream, which SPHP finally determined was actually Engineer Creek. In any case, Engineer Creek remained visible along the Dempster Highway for a considerable distance, growing rapidly as tributaries contributed their rain-swollen flows.

7:32 AM – At km 179, Lupe and SPHP got out for another look.

Km 179. **Engineer Creek** was already a much larger stream.

The Dempster Highway follows **Engineer Creek** all the way down to its confluence with the Ogilvie River, although it’s not always visible from the road like this.

7:49 AM, 45°, km 190 – The Dempster Highway eventually angled NNW away from Engineer Creek. Dead ahead, Sapper Hill (3,019 ft.) was now in view. SPHP had expected Sapper Hill might be an easy peakbagging objective for Lupe. Instead, Sapper Hill was steep and capped by a long, ragged ridgeline. The rock formations looked so formidable, a technical rock climb might be required to reach the true summit.

Approaching **Sapper Hill**. Photo looks NNW.

Sapper Hill was surprisingly rocky and steep!

8:22 AM, 45°F, km 195.5 – A nearly deserted campground was hidden in the forest at the base of Sapper Hill. Not far beyond it, Lupe arrived at a bridge over the Ogilvie River. The bridge went right over the confluence with Engineer Creek.

The Ogilvie River was a blue, green, gray color, and much clearer than Engineer Creek. Immediately downstream of the bridge, the newly combined flows hadn’t had a chance to mix yet, and the tan silt-laden waters contributed by Engineer Creek could be seen hugging the E bank.

Sapper Hill was still in sight. Around a bend in the Dempster Highway, Mount Jeckell (4,725 ft.), another peak SPHP had hoped Lupe might have a shot at climbing, could be seen, too. However, Mount Jeckell was a much more formidable undertaking. The gloomy sky and intermittent light rain didn’t make tackling either one seem like such a hot idea.

By the **Ogilvie River** just upstream of the Dempster Highway bridge where Engineer Creek joins in. Photo looks SSW.

The Dempster Highway bridge over the **Ogilvie River**. The tan waters of **Engineer Creek** join in from the R. **Sapper Hill** is in view beyond the bridge. Photo looks E.

Looking downstream (NNE) from the bridge.

Conditions weren’t right. Lupe and SPHP continued N. The Carolina Dog would soon get to the last peak in this vicinity that SPHP had researched before she left home on this Dingo Vacation.

9:05 AM, about km 120 – SPHP parked the G6 at a pullout near the rapidly expanding Ogilvie River. Lupe’s last peakbagging candidate for a very long way was now in view. Churchward Hill (2,871 ft.) appeared less daunting than Sapper Hill or Mount Jeckell had been, and if forest didn’t interfere, views of the Ogilvie River from the summit ought to be superb. Maybe it would be worth waiting around to see if the weather might improve a bit?

**Churchward Hill** from the **Ogilvie River**. Photo looks N.

Looking upstream along the **Ogilvie River** from the same pullout. Photo looks S.

10:19 AM, 50°F about km 224.5 – There hadn’t been any decent place to park closer to Churchward Hill, so SPHP had simply pulled over as far to the R (E) along the Dempster Highway as possible. An hour had been diddled away eating an early lunch and getting ready while waiting to see what the weather was going to do. Apparently not much. No rain had fallen while Lupe had been here. Just an overcast, breezy, cool day.

Far from ideal, but good enough to take a crack at it. Starting from a point only a little SE of the mountain, Lupe crossed the highway, went down into the ditch, and started up a steep slope.

Loop about to set out for **Churchward Hill**. Photo looks NW.

The usual thick, spongy tundra of the N was underpaw. Nice and soft, but laborious to move through. The topo map showed that heading W along the lower S slopes of the mountain ultimately ought to lead to a longer, but easier route up from the SW than a direct ascent up the S face would be.

That was SPHP’s intent. The terrain never completely leveled out, but once Lupe was up the first steep embankment, the going did get easier. Loop and SPHP turned W, while still gradually gaining some elevation. So far, so good. Everything seemed to be going according to plan.

*We’re off to a good start! We’ll turn L (W) here, and look for the easiest way up*. Photo looks NW.

*Not so bad along in here, is it?* Photo looks N.

Gaining elevation at a moderate pace on the way W seemed like a good idea, but it wasn’t. Shouldn’t have gained much at all! Worked for a while, but the higher Lupe got, the steeper the terrain became. Soon SPHP was finding it difficult to make much progress toward the W. The slope was too steep. Going almost directly up the mountain was easier than making a traverse.

Up and up! Sooner or later, Lupe was going to reach the rock formations near the top of Churchward Hill. Hopefully, the Carolina Dog was far enough W to avoid getting topped out below insurmountable cliffs.

Loop was not amused by this turn of events. The were-puppy appeared, attacked SPHP several times, and delivered a stern, shrill message.

I thought we were going W! What are we doing here? Are you out of your mind, SPHP?

The were-puppy voices considerable displeasure at SPHP’s foolish deviation from the original plan of attack.

The top of Churchward Hill was more than 1,100 feet higher than where Lupe had left the G6 down at the Dempster Highway. The climb nearly got so steep that SPHP wasn’t going to be able to make it, if the incline got any worse, but by the time the first rock formations appeared, the news was good!

Lupe wasn’t stuck at the bottom of a continuous line of cliffs. She could go between the rock outcroppings. Furthermore, the climb already was no longer quite as steep. Only a short distance above the first rocks, the situation improved greatly. The slope was rapidly decreasing. Gonna make it!

Within minutes, the American Dingo was up on top. Everything was easy now, surprisingly easy. Although the entire climb had been through forest, the top of Churchward Hill was mostly open ground. With few trees and little in the way of spongy tundra up here, it was easy to move around, and the views were going to be great!

Two high points of nearly the same elevation were separated by several hundred feet. Lupe had come up quite close to the E high point, which was where the great views of the Ogilvie River ought to be, so she went over there first. A tripod stood next to a circular cairn built around a survey marker. Nearby, a sign about the survey marker stood facing SE toward a cliff. Weird! If the sign had been any closer to the cliff, no one could have read it without risking an unduly speedy descent.

Lupe reaches the **E summit of Churchward Hill**. The **W summit** is directly beyond her.

This survey marker was enclosed by a circular cairn.

Too bad it wasn’t a prettier day! The views would have been stunning! Lupe cringed at the viewpoint along the E edge of the mountain in an unpleasantly cold 20 mph S wind. The dull, gray sky did nothing for the mood, nor for the scenes on display. Yet even under these conditions, the Ogilvie River from on high was an impressive sight.

The **Ogilvie River** from **Churchward Hill**. Photo looks S.

Rapids in the **Ogilvie River**. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

Accompanied by the Dempster Highway, the **Ogilvie River** flows off to the N. Photo looks NNE.

Another look with help from the telephoto lens. The big ridge in the distance is the start of the **Eagle Plain plateau**.

Churchward Hill’s commanding views of long stretches of the Ogilvie River were the main scenic highlight, but not the only one. Beautiful mountains could be seen in most directions, the highest being off to the S. Many peaks E of the river looked like fun, relatively easy climbs, if Lupe had a way to get over to them, but she didn’t.

Peaks E of the Ogilvy River looked like fun climbs, but lacked access. Photo looks E with help from the telephoto lens.

Looking SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Much of **Churchward Hill’s summit area**. Photo looks W.

**Ogilvie River** from **Churchward Hill**. Photo looks S.

Although in the upper 40’s °F, the S wind sweeping over Churchward Hill felt cold and damp. Lupe and SPHP retreated a little down the N slope to escape the worst of the breeze, then sat together enjoying the views. The Ogilvie River flowed N toward a long ridge in the distance. This ridge was the start of the 1,000 foot high Eagle Plain plateau.

Loopster under a jacket taking shelter from the S wind. Photo looks N.

If it had been a little nicer out, it would have been fun to stay longer. As it was, at least Lupe had gotten to visit Churchward Hill (2,871 ft.). Half an hour on the forlorn, windswept summit beneath the somber sky, and the American Dingo was ready to move on.

Before leaving, Loopster visited the W summit, too. Though less of the Ogilvie River could be seen from here, looking back toward the E from a little wall of rock at the highest point, it did seem like this W end might well be the true summit of Churchward Hill.

**Ogilvie River** from **Churchward Hill’s W high point**. Photo looks S.

Lupe up on the W high point. SPHP was of the opinion that this was actually the **true summit of Churchward Hill**. However, the views of the Ogilvie River were better from the E high point, which, if not equally high, was only slightly lower. Photo looks WSW.

Looking back toward the E high point where the cairn is (R).

On the return, Lupe took a different route. Instead of heading nearly straight down the S slope the way she’d come up, she explored the route that SPHP had originally intended to take during the ascent.

This really was a better, though considerably longer, way to go. Lupe left the summit continuing W along a mostly open ridge that provided a much more gradual rate of descent. This ridge was capped by a broken line of limestone formations. The rockier terrain made for easy travel.

Lupe up on one of the bigger limestone formations on the way down the W ridge. Photo looks SW.

View to the W with help from the telephoto lens.

At the far W end, the ridge ended abruptly, dropping off sharply from a final massive rock.

*Oh, this is a better way, isn’t it? I’m glad we came this way, but we’re almost to the end of the ridge now. That last big rock on the R is it.*

From the W end of the ridge, Lupe still had considerable elevation left to lose. She headed SE down into the forest, and was soon back on deep, spongy tundra. Didn’t seem as bad going downhill, though. Turning gradually E, Loop actually had a lot of fun exploring the boreal forest.

The Carolina Dog got to roam a lot farther on the way back than she had on the way up, but eventually the final steep embankment leading down to the Dempster Highway appeared.

1:20 PM, 53°F, km 124.5 – It was still early afternoon when Lupe reached the G6. Churchward Hill had been a success, and had probably been the best possible choice that could have been made on this gray day. Plenty of time to do more, though! From up on Churchward Hill, off to the N Loop had seen the long ridge of the vast Eagle Plain plateau. Beyond the plateau was the Eagle River, and beyond that …

SPHP fired up the G6. The Dempster Highway curved a little passing through a narrow spot between the cliffs of Churchward Hill and the Ogilvie River. The road then headed N. By nightfall, for the first time in nearly a year, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood would return to the true Arctic.

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

The Dempster Highway Travelogue Guide

Windy Pass Peak, Distincta Peak & Peak 5906, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-16-18)

Days 12 & 13 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

8-15-18, 6:00 AM, 42°F at the Mount Haldane trailhead two miles N of the Silver Trail – Looked like rain, darkly overcast without a speck of blue. Lupe had gotten lucky climbing Mount Haldane (6,032 ft.) yesterday. The situation was less promising today, though. Hopefully conditions would be better at Tombstone Territorial Park. SPHP drove back to the Silver Trail, and turned W.

**Mayo River** from near the Minto Bridge along Silver Trail Highway No. 11.

At Stewart Crossing, patches of blue sky could be seen. Encouraging! SPHP took North Klondike Highway No. 2 heading N. It was a sunny day by the time Lupe reached the official start of the Dempster Highway E of Dawson City. SPHP fueled the G6, then accompanied Looper over to the commemorative sign. (9:50 AM, 50°F)

In early September, 2017, the Carolina Dog had explored part of the Dempster Highway, but only as far as Tombstone Territorial Park. The scenery had been absolutely stunning! Below the gloom of a sullen sky, dark grey and silver mountains had loomed over river valleys ablaze with reds, golds, and oranges.

This year, Loopster was going to go farther, much farther! In fact, she was going to travel the entire length of the Dempster to Inuvik in the Northwest Territories, 737 km (458 miles) of gravel away. Not only that, but, if the G6 could manage it, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was going to continue N beyond Inuvik, a feat that would have been impossible a year ago. In November, 2017, a brand new all season road had been opened that went another 140 km (87 miles) all the way to Tuktoyaktuk on the Arctic Ocean!

The mighty American Dingo stood at the start of the Dempster Highway blinking and squinting in the sunlight. For good measure, she licked her schnoz at the moment SPHP snapped the photo, a fact not noticed until later. Ah, well. So it goes.

Miss Tasty Nose at the start of the Dempster Highway.

The sun vanished on the road N. Gray clouds blanketed the mountains by the time Lupe reached Tombstone Territorial Park a mere 50 km up the Dempster Highway. Everything was still green in mid-August. The scene was a far cry from the brilliant fall colors Lupe had enjoyed here last September.

50 km along the Dempster Highway, Lupe reaches Tombstone Territorial Park.

11:47 AM, 47°F – SPHP dropped by the visitor center at km 71.5 to get a weather forecast. Not good. Rain showers every day. The plan had been for Lupe to go up Charcoal Ridge to Mount Chester Henderson today, but clearly that wasn’t in the cards. No sense hanging around, either, with days of rain and fog expected.

New plan – just keep heading N. Loop stopped at a few favorite spots in Tombstone Territorial Park along the way.

Looking SW up the **North Klondike river valley** from a pullout at km 74.0. Last year the vivid fall colors Lupe had seen from this very spot had been incredible.

At a shallow, bubbling pond Lupe had visited in 2017, too.

All these stops were brief. Lupe was soon going by the L turn at km 98 to Surfbird Mountain (5,300 ft.), which was as far N along the Dempster Highway as she had gone in 2017. Everything from here on, for more than 750 km to Tuktoyaktuk, was all new, unexplored territory!

Already beyond the highest and most rugged part of the Ogilvie Range, the Dempster Highway entered the open, gently rolling tundra of the Blackstone Plateau. Two Moose Lake wasn’t much farther at km 102.6. From the lake, Peak 5262 was in view.

**Peak 5262** from **Two Moose Lake**. Photo looks NW.

The sky was still overcast, but now that Lupe was more or less out of the mountains, bits of blue began to appear. The situation seemed to be improving. Maybe Lupe could climb Peak 5262? That would be awesome! Furthermore, if for some reason the weather forecast was wrong, the Carolina Dog would be close enough to return to Charcoal Ridge for an attempt on Mount Chester Henderson tomorrow morning.

Yeah, that made sense! SPHP parked the G6 at a rest area at km 107.6 next to the East Blackstone River. Loop sniffed among the bushes near the river, while SPHP got ready. (1:00 PM, 51°F)

At km 107.6 along the **East Blackstone Rive**r. Photo looks N.

Lupe and SPHP set out heading N along the Dempster Highway. Ahead the road curved R (NE) to avoid a couple of low ridges. The more distant ridge was slightly higher, but SPHP figured the closer ridge ought to work out just as well. After the road went over a creek coming down from the W, the American Dingo left the highway.

Dense bushes covering the side of the first ridge made getting up on top harder than it should have been. Fortunately, it was no big deal. Lupe gained the ridgeline, and Peak 5262 was in sight again to the WNW.

Looking back at the **East Blackstone River** and the rest area at km 107.6 from the first ridge. Photo looks S.

The top of the ridge was a vast, gentle incline. At the far end, Peak 5262 sat looking like no more than a big hill. A profusion of low bushes too small to impede progress covered the entire ridge. Anywhere else, this sort of terrain would have been cake. Lupe would simply saunter on over to Peak 5262, wander up to the summit, and that would be that.

However, what looks easy in the Arctic, often is not. Firm, reasonably dry ground was crucial to success.

Looper on the way to **Peak 5262**. Photo looks WNW.

The top of the ridge was fairly dry. However, the ground was not firm. The tundra the bushes grew out of was thick, spongy, tussocky. Loop wasn’t having much trouble with it, but what appeared to be so easy, was a wearying march for SPHP. Still, it wasn’t too bad. Lupe and SPHP kept at it, gradually getting closer and closer to Peak 5262.

For a long way, the tundra stayed dry. Lupe made a lot of progress, but in the end, it was all for naught. Approaching the base of the mountain, Loop came to an enormous bog. SPHP tried tussock hopping, but it was soon clear that wasn’t going to work. The tundra was getting wetter and wetter. The trek turned into a difficult, soggy slog. The terrain ahead looked super easy, but the tussocks kept getting bigger and tougher to navigate, and the gaps between them deeper and full of water.

SPHP now regretted not having had Lupe go to the second, higher ridge before leaving the highway. From here, the other ridge definitely looked like a better choice. However, both the huge bog and an unseen stream filled the gap between here and there. Gazing at the gentle slope head, turning back seemed ridiculous. Peak 5262 wasn’t that much farther! Yet continuing on meant an exhausting, mucky ordeal simply to reach the base of the mountain. No, it just wasn’t worth it.

Lupe may have been puzzled, but she wasn’t perturbed when SPHP gave up and turned back. Even for the Carolina Dog these bigger tussocks, and the deep wet holes around them, weren’t an easy matter.

*Are you serious, SPHP? We’re turning back here?* Yes, it was true. Even all the seemingly dry ground in the foreground is actually part of a vast bog. Photo looks NW.

Taking a break from the tussocks. The ridge Lupe should have tried to get to Peak 5262 is the next one over. Photo looks NE.

Though disappointed by not even getting to Peak 5262, much less to the summit, the trek back to the Dalton Highway along the open ridge was a fabulous, beautiful march. Splendid remote hills and mountains of the Yukon were in sight in all directions.

*Roaming the Yukon wilderness is such fun!* Photo looks ESE.

3:25 PM – Despite how wonderful it all was, Lupe and SPHP both arrived back at the G6 rather weary from dealing with the tussocks. A bite to eat was followed by a lazy afternoon nap.

The sun was still shining, when the Carolina Dog woke up refreshed and ready for action. Such a beautiful evening! Without any particular goal in mind, Lupe and SPHP explored the tundra W of the Dalton Highway both N and S of the rest area. Lupe sniffed and explored long stretches of tall bushes near the East Blackstone River, too. Despite setbacks, this had turned out to be such a fun, happy day, after all!

An evening romp out on the golden tundra. Photo looks SW.

*Hey! There’s **Blackstone Mountain (6,900 ft.)** on the L!* Photo looks SW.

8-16-18, 6:57 AM, 32°F, km 107.6 of the Dempster Highway – Frost! SPHP turned the engine on to let things warm up a bit. Chilly out, but the skies were blue! Not so much back toward the higher peaks to the S where clouds still reigned, but out here on the Blackstone Plateau, it was a beautiful morning.

Cloudy to the S? Go N, young Dingo! Lupe did, but not too far. Her first stop of the day came at Chapman Lake at km 116.0. Though the largest lake anywhere along the Dempster Highway, Chapman Lake still wasn’t all that big.

A display told about the Lost Patrol, which had set out in December, 1910 from Fort McPherson on a 765 km trek to Dawson City without adequate supplies or an experienced guide. The result, while tragic, didn’t seem terribly surprising.

Approaching **Chapman Lake**. Photo looks NE.

*There’s **Peak 5262**, SPHP! I bet we could make it up there today. Want to give it a shot? …. Nope, we’ve got bigger fish to fry on a day like this, Looper!* Photo looks SW.

From Chapman Lake, the Dempster Highway proceeded N still following the Blackstone River. A line of mountains was ahead that the river had carved a course through. The resulting valley was very scenic, but after a while the highway turned W abandoning the Blackstone River. A long climb began up to Windy Pass at km 152.8.

SPHP was pleased to see a large pullout along the N side of the highway at the Windy Pass summit. Perfect! How easy is that? SPHP parked, and an enthusiastic American Dingo bounded out of the G6. (8:08 AM)

8:44 AM, 44°F – The setup was great! On the S side of Windy Pass, a long valley coming straight N down toward the pass was flanked on both sides by large ridges. According to the topo map, the ridge on the L (E) led up to Windy Pass Peak (5,249 ft.), Lupe’s peakbagging objective for the day. This ridge was nicely rounded, not too steep, and looked like it would provide an easy, steady ramp higher.

At **Windy Pass**. The large ridge on the L (E) leads to Windy Pass Peak. Photo looks S.

A chilly breeze blew out of the W, as Lupe set out for Windy Pass Peak. Crossing over to the S side of the Dempster Highway, the Carolina Dog sniffed her way SE through a short section of stunted forest followed by a spongy, boggy stretch of open tundra, which fortunately wasn’t too bad. Loop soon reached drier terrain at the base of the big ridge.

The climb up onto the toe of the ridge was a bit steep, but not difficult or the least bit scary. This rocky, dry ground was so much easier to traverse than that much gentler, but tussocky ridge Lupe had roamed yesterday trying to get to Peak 5262! Once Loopster made it up onto the ridgeline, a beautiful, easy route higher was ahead. For a long way, the slope was so gentle that even SPHP seldom had to pause for breath.

Lupe reaches the ridgeline. Photo looks WNW back at **Windy Pass**.

The route higher was so nice! Photo looks S.

Loop on a particularly easy section. Photo looks S.

The high point on the L isn’t far from the N summit of Windy Pass Peak. Photo looks S.

Getting higher! Looking NNW back at **Windy Pass**.

**Distincta Peak** (Center) in the distance, and **Peak 5906** (R). Photo looks S.

Eventually, the ridge steepened and became much rockier. Slower, but still a simple straightforward climb.

Eventually the ridge steepened and became much rockier. Photo looks SSE.

Windy Pass Peak has two N ridges. Lupe was coming up the NW ridge. A big level stretch of the **NE ridge** is in view. Photo looks NE.

The **NW ridge** Lupe has just come up is seen in sunlight from Center down to the R. **Windy Pass** is now far below, also on the R. Photo looks NW.

After a nice climb, the terrain began to level out. The going was getting easier again. The N summit of Windy Pass Peak (5,249 ft.) was just ahead. Lupe arrived to find a couple of good-sized cairns, as well as some fabulous views.

At the **N summit of Windy Pass Peak**. The slightly higher **S summit** is in view on the L. **Distincta Peak** is in shadow at Center, with **Peak 5906** also in shadow on the R. Photo looks SSW.

Looking down the **NE ridge** (Center to L) from the N summit. Photo looks NNE.

Looking NNE again with help from the telephoto lens.

**Distincta Peak (L) and Peak 5906** (Center) from the N summit of **Windy Pass Peak**. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Windy Pass Peak has two summits. Slightly higher than the N one, the S summit is the true summit. Naturally Lupe had to visit it, too, in order to claim her peakbagging success. The S summit looked farther away than SPHP expected, but an easy march. After enjoying the tremendous views from the N summit, Looper headed S.

The **S (true) summit of Windy Pass Peak** (L) is just ahead. **Distincta Peak** in the distance on the R. Photo looks S.

Except for the cold W wind, getting to the S summit was a fun, easy romp. In under 10 minutes, the Carolina Dog was there. After a brief visit to the cairn at the absolute high point, Lupe and SPHP retreated slightly down the E side of the ridge to escape the wind.

Nearing the true summit of **Windy Pass Peak**. Photo looks SSW.

Looper at the **true (S) summit of** **Windy Pass Peak**, but not enjoying the cold W wind. **Distincta Peak** is directly beyond her. **Peak 5906** on the R. Photo looks SSW.

A look back at the **N summit** (Center) from the **S summit**. Photo looks N.

**True summit of Windy Pass Peak**. Photo looks ENE with help from the telephoto lens.

Down the E slope a bit to escape the chilly W wind. The **N summit** is in sunshine (R). Photo looks N.

As Lupe and SPHP sat together enjoying the wonderful panoramas on display, there was more than just the views to think about. Covering Loop with a jacket, SPHP pondered the situation. This whole trek up to Windy Pass Peak had gone amazingly well, and the day was still young.

Long before the Carolina Dog had ever set out on this Dingo Vacation, SPHP had harbored faint hopes that if the American Dingo was able to get to Windy Pass Peak, she might also be able to continue along the ridgeline as far Distincta Peak (5,775 ft). That had seemed like a rather far-fetched hope, because the ridge leading to Distincta was long. Many hundreds of feet elevation would have to be lost and regained going over other high points along the way.

However, given a nice enough day, the biggest potential problem hadn’t been the distance or the elevation gain/loss, but that this might turn out to be such rugged territory that Lupe wouldn’t stand a chance. Even one technical point anywhere along the whole ridge might easily prove to be an insurmountable obstacle.

That sure hadn’t been the case so far, though. Furthermore, Distincta Peak had been in sight from almost the very start, and nothing that had come into view so far looked all that difficult. Maybe Lupe could get to Distincta Peak? And if that went well, maybe she could even make a huge loop around the whole valley to the W while tagging Peak 5906, too? The whole notion was exciting!

Admittedly, the wind was annoying, but it wasn’t bad enough to be a show-stopper. So far, the weather was actually holding up pretty well. One thing for sure, if Loopster didn’t give it a shot today, when she was already this far along, she would never get another chance.

Puppy, ho! Onward!

And so it began. Lupe briefly returned to the true summit of Windy Pass Peak, before continuing S along the ridge.

Starting for **Distincta Peak** (R) from Windy Pass Peak. The plan was now to go clear around the entire valley seen on the R. Beyond Lupe are two high points she would have to go over along the way. The closest one is **High Point 5053** (1540 m). Beyond it in shadow is **High Point 5381** (1640 m). Photo looks S.

Loopster lost more than 400 feet of elevation descending to the saddle leading to High Point 5053, the next big bump along the ridgeline. It all went just fine, though, and soon she was facing a less dramatic loss on the approach to High Point 5381. When that went well, too, confidence soared. Yes! If only the weather would hold, the American Dingo was going to make it to Distincta Peak!

Starting the descent to the saddle leading to **High Point 5053** (L). **Distincta Peak** at Center. Photo looks SSW.

**High Point 5381** (Center) from **High Point 5053**. Photo looks S.

**Windy Pass Peak** (L) from the SE slope of **High Point 5053**. Photo looks N.

S of High Point 5053 now with smooth sailing to **High Point 5381** ahead. Photo looks S.

*Come on, SPHP! We’re getting there!* Lupe approaching **High Point 5381** (L). **Distincta Peak** (Center) and **Peak 5906** (far R). Photo looks SW.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood on her way to **High Point 5381** (L). Photo looks WSW.

A look at the Blackstone River valley on the way up High Point 5381. Photo looks SSE.

**Blackstone River** from **High Point 5381**. Photo looks SE.

When Lupe reached the top of High Point 5381, a large plateau was in sight to the SW. This plateau, High Point 5371, was almost as high as where Loop was now, and had been visible earlier on much of the way here. Even from a great distance, some sort of structure had been seen on it at the far S end of the long valley W of Windy Pass Peak.

The mysterious structure was now clearly a big microwave tower plus a group of associated buildings. Getting over to the tower was going to be a snap. Once there, all that remained was for Lupe to head directly W to Distincta Peak.

*Here we are at the summit of **High Point 5381**! Next it’s on to the big plateau behind me where the microwave tower sits* (Center). Photo looks SW.

*Look how far we’ve come! That bright white hill (Center) is **Windy Pass Peak**.* Photo looks N.

The big plateau where the microwave tower sits (L) is **High Point 5371**. **Distincta Peak** is at far R. Photo looks SW.

The microwave tower and everything else on High Point 5371 must have been brought in by helicopter. When Lupe got there, she found no sign of any road. The tower stood on the highest ground near the N edge of the plateau, which sloped gradually down toward the S. Ready for a bit of a break prior to tackling Distincta Peak, Lupe and SPHP rested on the barren slope well S of the tower.

The views, of course, were fantastic, but would be even better yet from higher up on Distincta Peak. 15 pleasant minutes were spent relaxing on the S slope of High Point 5371 before Loopster headed NW over to the microwave tower.

Near the microwave tower on **High Point 5371**. **Distincta Peak** on the L. The long ridge seen beyond Loop is **Peak 5906**. Photo looks NW.

Once W of the microwave tower, **Distincta Peak** (L) is directly ahead. The ridge on the R is **Peak 5906**. Photo looks NW.

Looking back at the microwave tower. Photo looks ESE.

**Windy Pass** from **High Point 5371**. **Windy Pass Peak** is on the R. Photo looks N.

Distincta Peak (5,775 ft.) was only a short distance W of the microwave tower. The climb up Distincta’s E slope was the steepest Lupe would have to face all day. Near the top, a bit of scrambling was required, but it was easy – pure fun! Before long, Loop was approaching the summit.

Approaching **Distincta Peak** (R). Photo looks SW.

*A bit of scrambling is good for the soul!*

At a nice rest spot just before the final steep push to the top. **Distincta Peak’s SW ridge** is seen on the L. The distant peak at Center is likely **Mount Abraham (5,446 ft.)**. Photo looks SW.

Getting close to the top. Photo looks W.

Unlike all the other peaks and high points Lupe visited today, the summit of Distincta Peak encompassed only a relatively small area. Still, there was plenty of room to move around a bit, plus a little more on a slightly lower shelf to the E. Distincta was a truly beautiful summit, nearly flat, adorned with colorful tundra and a cairn of suitable size. Best of all, the views were absolutely grand!

Looper up on top. Most of the summit area is in view here. Photo looks W.

**Infant Peak (4,856 ft.)** (R) with **Chapman Lake** directly beyond it. Photo looks S with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

The E end of Distincta Peak’s summit. The microwave tower on **High Point 5371** (R) is seen beyond Lupe. The white hill on the L is **High Point 5381**. Photo looks ENE.

**Peak 5906** from **Distincta Peak**. Photo looks NNW.

The wind was now out of the S instead of the W, but hadn’t warmed up at all. Thrilled with Lupe’s success at reaching Distincta Peak, a longer rest break was in order. SPHP sought refuge from the cold breeze a few feet below the N edge of the summit. Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap, and kindly granted permission to pet and praise her.

In a pale blue Yukon sky, cotton ball clouds sailed overhead. Facing N, Windy Pass was out of sight beyond a curve in the valley below, but both summits of Windy Pass Peak (5,249 ft.) were in view. Nearly the entire long ridge route Lupe had taken to get here was, too. Remote, unspoiled mountains stretched away to the horizon. Few appeared to be as high as Distincta Peak where Lupe was right now.

However, that big light grey ridge off to the L was an exception. Peak 5906 was a bit higher, and wasn’t very far off now, either. With no rain showers in sight, the American Dingo simply had to visit it, too! In fact, having come this far, Peak 5906 was by now probably the quickest way back to the G6. No rush on that yet, though.

Though Windy Pass is out of sight to the L, **Windy Pass Peak** (L) is brightly lit near the far end of the valley leading to it. Photo looks NNE.

Since **Peak 5906** was so close, Lupe simply had to visit it, too! Photo looks NNW.

Looking NW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

A fabulous half hour shot by. One more peak to go!

The trek down Distincta Peak’s NW face was nearly as steep as coming up from the E had been. Surprisingly large rocks were prone to shifting unexpectedly, making progress trickier than it looked. Lupe had plenty of time to sniff around while SPHP lost the 350 feet of elevation required to get down to the saddle leading to Peak 5906.

Of course, Loop immediately had to regain all that lost elevation and more, before getting to where the S shoulder of Peak 5906 leveled out. The true summit was still some distance away at the opposite far N end, but the rest was easy. The views were spectacular during the relaxing trek along the massive ridge, on a journey only sweetened by obviously guaranteed success.

**Distincta Peak** (R) from the **S end of Peak 5906**. The microwave tower on **High Point 5371** (L) is in sight, too. Photo looks SE.

The spectacular easy trek to the **true summit of Peak 5906** (R) is a joyous formality from here! Photo looks NNW.

At Center is the high point along Distincta Peak’s SW ridge. **Chapman Lake** is just to the R. Photo looks S.

Approaching the true summit. Photo looks N.

Near the E edge of the mountain, a modest cairn sat at the true summit of Peak 5906. Fields of light gray stones sloped gradually away in all other directions. Bits and pieces of humanity’s junk were strewn around nearby – cables, wires, metal rods, bolts, a rotten rope. SPHP stuffed as much of this trash into the backpack as possible for disposal later on.

Lupe stood near the cairn. This was a dream come true! Windy Pass Peak, Distincta Peak, and now even Peak 5906 – way up here in the Yukon, N of Tombstone Territorial Park, the Carolina Dog had actually made it to them all! An undeniable moment of joy and glory.

Lupe at the **true summit of** **Peak 5906**. Photo looks SSW.

The weather seemed to be changing. Not drastically, but something to keep an eye on. The wind had shifted slightly, and was now out of the SW. Made no difference. Nowhere to escape it up here, anyway. More concerning, some clouds were starting to look darker. A distant line of showers was drifting this way, and others were developing to the NW.

Lupe wanted to curl up on SPHP’s lap again. Of course, sweet Dingo! SPHP sat facing away from the wind, while Loop settled in.

What an incredible scene! The Yukon – a seemingly endless expanse, all of it mountainous, a sea of desolate, unexplored peaks. Only a chosen distant few appeared to be any higher than Peak 5906. No enormous, towering, monstrous crags in any direction, but the overall effect was deeply moving.

So amazingly beautiful and untouched! It was like gazing upon a world none had ever seen before.

**Windy Pass Peak** in the foreground (N summit on the L, S summit on the R) from **Peak 5906**. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

SPHP sat mesmerized. Loop rested completely content, a sublime half hour ticking away right there on SPHP’s lap. Dark clouds swept by, but the rain showers never arrived. Lucky! The weather was holding up just fine.

Eventually, though, the time came to move around a bit. The summit area was so large that it was necessary to get closer to the various edges, in order to see as much as possible.

The microwave tower on **High Point 5371** (R of Center) from Peak 5906’s summit. Photo looks SE.

Along the E edge looking back at the long ridge Lupe had followed to reach the summit. **Distincta Peak** on the L. Photo looks S.

Near the N edge now. On the way back to the G6, Lupe would take the big ridge seen on the R. Photo looks N.

Part of Peak 5906’s long NW ridge (Center). Photo looks NW.

A fraction of the huge summit area. Loop next to the summit cairn. Photo looks SSW.

American Dingoes are seldom seen on **Peak 5906**, but here’s one now!

Can’t get enough! Another look at the NW ridge and beyond. Photo looks NW.

After traipsing back and forth all over the summit, Lupe returned to the cairn one last time. She had been on Peak 5906 for more than an hour. Although plenty of daylight remained, and the Carolina Dog intended to take a shortcut back to the highway, she still had a long way to go.

SPHP enthusiastically congratulated the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, and praised her for her grand peakbagging successes on this fabulous day. And then, after a last look around from glorious Peak 5906, Loop headed N.

Final moments by the summit cairn. Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.

Last look back at **High Point 5371** (L) and **Distincta Peak** (R), both in the foreground. Photo looks SE.

Loop ready to head down. Exploring new territory, she would follow the big ridge in the foreground. **Windy Pass Peak’s true summit** is in sunlight on the R. Photo looks NNE.

No more peaks to climb, but the fun wasn’t over yet. Lupe had a grand time on the way back. This was still all new territory, downhill practically all the way, on easy terrain where the wind wasn’t blowing nearly as hard as higher up. The views remained tremendous.

Looking back S from the N ridge. **Peak 5960** (Center) and **Distincta Peak** (L).

A little more than halfway back, Lupe came to rock formations at the E end of a high point. Nearby, Peak 5906’s N ridge split in two. Since it was the most direct route to Windy Pass, Lupe took the NE prong.

Heading down the N ridge, which divides into two parts on the far side of the big area in sunlight. From the rock formations seen at the R end, Loop continued down toward the R. Photo looks NNW.

Loop reaches the rock formations. **Windy Pass** is down by the Dalton Highway on the R. At far R is the start of the ridge to Windy Pass Peak. Loop continued on to the high point on the L before traveling R down the ridge seen directly beyond her. Photo looks NNE.

Looking back from the top of the rock formations. **Peak 5906** at Center. Photo looks S.

The Dalton Highway from near the end of the NE prong. Photo looks NW.

The American Dingo still had a lot of elevation to lose when she reached the end of the NE prong. No choice, but to make a long, steep descent. As usual, this was no big deal for Loop. She roamed and sniffed, while SPHP slowly picked a way down all the steep, loose rock.

Windy Pass was in sight the whole time. Getting there was taking forever, but it wasn’t far away now. Yet one potential obstacle remained. Lupe would have to cross the creek flowing out of the valley to the E to get back to the road. SPHP had plenty of time to fret about this during the long descent. What if it couldn’t be done?

Starting the steep descent to Windy Pass (R).

Fortunately, at mid-August the creek turned out to be an easy rock hop. A quick, squishy, spongy march up a tundra slope to the stunted forest near the Dalton Highway was all that remained.

What a day! Couldn’t have turned out any better. Loop had made the big loop, clear around from Windy Pass Peak to Distincta Peak, on to Peak 5906, and back down the long N ridge. Exactly as hoped, though prospects for success had seemed dim when originally conceived. A magnificent Yukon dream come true! (8:02 PM, 50°F)

Peak 5906, Ogilvie Mountains, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-16-18

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