North to Alaska – Return of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood! (8-17-22)

Days 19, 20, and Part 1 of Day 21 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-17-22, 7:19 AM, 55ºF, grassy bluff overlooking Kusawa Lake – Rained all night, and was still raining as Loopster got underway again.  The 20 km gravel road back to the Alaska Highway was a sea of mud, the poor RAV4 a filthy mess by the time SPHP turned W onto the pavement.  When the American Dingo reached Haines Junction, though, the RAV4 was looking shiny and new again, except for the rear end, which the rain hadn’t been able to wash off.

How far are we going today, SPHP?

Dunno, Loop.  Depends on how long this rain continues.  All the way to Alaska, easy, if it keeps up like this.

Alaska!  Today?  Are we really that close to Alaska, SPHP?

Yup!  Remember when we climbed AB Mountain near Skagway, and you became the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, Loop?  We already passed the turn to Skagway before we even got to Whitehorse.

We skipped Skagway?  Why?  What part of Alaska are we going to, SPHP?

As far N as we can, Looper!

The Brooks Range, SPHP?

And beyond!  Deadhorse, sweet puppy!  I want to see the North Slope.  The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood is returning to the true Arctic!  Of course, we won’t get that far in a day, but what’s the rush?  We’ll be traveling through some fabulous territory.  If things dry out, we’ll be making stops at some great spots you’ll recognize along the way.

N of Haines Junction, it was only 48ºF as SPHP drove past Decoeli.  Lost in rain and fog, there was no recognizing that fabulous peak.

8-17-22, 10:02 AM – Only a short time later, the pavement was dry as SPHP made the turn off the highway onto the big pullout at the S end of Kluane Lake.  Clouds hung gloomily over Sheep Mountain, but at least it wasn’t raining.  A SW wind kicked up dust over in the Slims River valley.  A lot of memories here as Lupe took a stroll along the lakeshore.

Kluane Lake. Sheep Mountain (L). Photo looks NNW.
Slims River valley (Center) from Kluane Lake. Sheep Mountain (R). Photo looks WSW.

So long since the last time Lupe had been here that SPHP decided to stay a while.  With a view of the mountains marching away to the N beyond Kluane Lake, SPHP spent a couple of hours working on the trip journal, glancing up now and then to watch the waves roll in.  Loop slept on her pink blanket, enjoying the rest after her windy ascent of Kusawa Ridge (5,085 ft.) yesterday.

Taking a second leisurely stroll along the lake before moving on, Lupe went farther this time.  The weather was even more unsettled now, the wind picking up, and the waves larger than they’d been earlier.  SPHP enjoyed the walk right along the shoreline best, but the Carolina Dog preferred sniffing among the young aspens beyond the beach on the way back to the RAV4.

Kluane Lake. Photo looks N.

8-17-22, 1:13 PM, 59ºF – Light rain set in again as the drive N resumed along the W shore of Kluane Lake.  This shower was soon left behind, though, and blue sky appeared.  Hit 65ºF!  For the first time today, a clear view of the mountains to the W was possible.  SPHP daydreamed about climbing them, a mountain NW of Burwash Creek looked particularly interesting.

8-17-22, 2:34 PM – Didn’t seem to take hardly any time at all to get here.  The weather was kind of crazy.  Blue skies were nearly gone again.  Cool and breezy, big clouds, dust, and fog filled the sky.  Distant views of the St. Elias Mountains to the W vanished almost as soon as Lupe arrived.

However, she could still see one awesome mountain just beyond the Alaska Highway bridge over the Donjek River.

Donjek Crossing Mountain from the Donjek River. Photo looks E.

Donjek Crossing Mountain, SPHP!  Remember when we climbed it?  Oh, what a fabulous day that was!

Heh!  It was nearly your last day ever, too, Looper, if you recall!

Lunch time!  The Donjek River was another favorite spot.  Might as well eat here.  Loop took strolls down along the river both before and after lunch.  The weather continued acting up.  Dust, wind, fog, patches of blue sky, intermittent rain drops, and peels of thunder!  A bizarro day, but it was fun being here.

Near the mighty Donjek River. Photo looks SSW.
Enjoying all natural mineral water from the silt-laden Donjek. Photo looks SSW.

SPHP completely caught up the trip journal.  Tempting to stay right here, but it wasn’t that late in the day yet, and Alaska was calling!

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

8-17-22, 5:46 PM – Another magnificent river wasn’t that much farther N, one Lupe had never really spent much time at, since it wasn’t as easily accessible as the Donjek.  Skies were only partly cloudy when she got to the White River, so taking this opportunity to scout it out a little better seemed in order.

Horsecamp Hill (4,600 ft.) had been on Lupe’s list of possibilities for years, and SPHP wanted to get a better look at it, too.  Might be some awesome views from up there, if it wasn’t too heavily forested.

White River upstream view. Photo looks S.
Downstream view of the White River. Horsecamp Hill (L). Photo looks N.

N of the White River, SPHP was surprised at the number of potholes and stretches of gravel.  The Alaska Highway had deteriorated in the past few years.  All still perfectly passable, though, at somewhat reduced speeds.

8-17-22, 7:03 PM – Well, actually 6:03 PM Alaska time!  Lupe was here!

Entering Alaska for the first time in 3 years!

This is a terrific sign, SPHP!  Why haven’t we ever stopped here before?

Because I never thought to look for a Welcome to Alaska sign until after we went through US Customs, Loop, and this sign comes just before it.

8-17-22, 6:13 PM – After 2 questions, the customs agent returned SPHP’s passport, wishing Lupe a good day.

Congratulations Miss Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood!  You’re in!

Thank you, SPHP!  That was easy!

As always!  Helps that you’ve got an innocent, trustworthy face, Loop!

92 miles to Tok!  A peaceful evening drive through a region of low hills ensued.  Tall, thin, Dr. Suess-like trees of the boreal forest extended far and away on both sides of the Alaska Highway.

8-17-22, 8:00 PM – Missed it!  Turning around, SPHP drove back to a big, paved pullout less than 25 miles from Tok.  Not a soul here other than an annoying number of mosquitoes.  Not much of a view, either, but this would do for the night.

8-18-22, 7:12 AM, 58ºF – Clear and sunny in Tok!  Compared to what it had been in Canada, cheap gas, too.  At a mere $4.769 per gallon, SPHP filled the RAV4 completely.

Lupe had only been on the last stretch of the Alaska Highway from Tok to Delta Junction once before, and SPHP had little recollection of it.  This was not mountainous territory, most of the drive merely hilly to pancake flat.  Highlights included bridges over 3 rivers, the Robertson, Johnson, and Gerstle.  Large, braided streams, they were somewhat reminiscent of the Donjek and White.

8-18-22, 9:53 AM – N of Delta Junction, SPHP stopped at a pullout along the Tanana River.  Time to get out, have a look, and sniff the air for a few minutes.  No sooner had Lupe ventured over to the river’s edge than a couple of boys came running over.  They asked a million questions about Lupe, wanted to pet her, and were anxious to show SPHP a couple of sticks they had been whittling with jack knives.

New found friends by the Tanana River.

Gray with silt, the Tanana was like all the other big rivers Lupe had been seeing.  Snow-capped peaks beyond it were an inspiring sight, but a long way off.  A few miles later, another pullout on a bluff provided a better overall view of the Tanana River itself.

Magnificent, unidentified peaks beyond the Tanana River.
Tanana River from the bluff.

The American Dingo went into a barking frenzy prompted by low-flying jets near Eielson AFB.  North Pole wasn’t much farther, and Fairbanks was just beyond that.

Beneath sunny skies with puffy white clouds, Lupe reached Fairbanks for the first time in 5 years before noon.  Last chance to to resupply and fuel up with cheap gas!  Free potable water at Pioneer Park, too.  Once those tasks were taken care of, the Carolina Dog was free to move on.  Everything was going according to plan.  Only one problem.

Decision time, Loop.

About what, SPHP?

About where to go, Looper.

I thought we already knew?  We’re heading N, right, SPHP?

That was the plan, but now I’m not so sure.  Checked the weather forecast for Coldfoot when we got into town.  It’s completely flipped from the last forecast the iPhone gave me back in Whitehorse 3 days ago.  Coldfoot was supposed to be sunny and clear for a whole week.  Now that we’ve come all this way, it’s saying 90% chance of rain today, 70% tomorrow, and cloudy for days after that.

Well, what are our options, SPHP?

We could delay our jaunt N by a couple of days, Loop.  The forecast looks a little better down here.  Pinnell Mountain (4,934 ft.) is NE out the Steese Highway.  Might be fun?

You decide, SPHP!  I’m happy either way.

After dithering for half an hour, SPHP made a questionable decision, continuing due N at Fox.

The drive to Livengood was beautiful!  Elliot Highway No. 2 wound up and down heavily forested ridges separated by deep valleys.  Not much traffic, except some big trucks.  Knew where those were coming from!

8-18-22, 5:21 PM – Blinking in the late afternoon sunshine, Lupe stood in front of a sign she hadn’t seen in nearly 5 years.  Must have rained not too long ago, because the pullout in front of it was muddy.

At the start of the 414 mile long Dalton Highway.

Naturally, the Dalton Highway was damp and muddy in spots, too.  The rear end of the RAV4 was soon on its way back to being a filthy mess, but that was to be expected sooner or later on the Dalton even in the best of times.  The drive was awesome!  Occasional sprinkles from silver-lined clouds, the pale blue sky of the far N over dark green forests, and from some of the highest ridges, views of distant hills and mountains of the trackless wilderness.

After not having been here for so many years, it was like returning to a world once glimpsed in a long forgotten dream.

Near MP40. Out for a short stroll along the scenic Dalton Highway.

8-18-22, 7:00 PM – MP56!  Lupe stood at the upper end of the bridge over the Yukon River, first big scenic landmark along the Dalton Highway.  Although traffic was only intermittent, it wasn’t a good idea to stand there too long.  A quick photo, and SPHP called her back.

On the Dalton Highway bridge over the Yukon River. Photo looks NNE.

Much safer to check out the mighty Yukon River from the N bank.  After driving over the bridge, SPHP parked the RAV4 near an old friend, the Alaska oil pipeline.  Lupe was happy to see it again before wandering over to the river for a look.

By the Alaska oil pipeline. Photo looks N.
Dalton Highway bridge from the N bank. Photo looks SW.
Yukon River display.
Down by the N bank. Photo looks SSE.
Evening along the Yukon River. Photo looks WNW.

Lemon pepper chicken!  Now that was tasty, SPHP!

Guess I should have bought 2 of them in Fairbanks, Loop.  We ate the whole thing!

Full of chicken, the lovely evening drive N continued.

8-18-22, 8:53 PM, MP98 – Must have rained hard here within the last hour.  The last few miles of the Dalton Highway before SPHP made the turn into the Finger Mountain Wayside were a sloppy mess full of big mud puddles.  Somewhere the sun was still up, but Lupe couldn’t see it due to all the dark clouds toward the N.

Finger Mountain (2,202 ft.), SPHP!  We’ve got to climb it!

Absolutely, sweet puppy!  Let’s go!

Finger Mountain’s summit was practically right there, only a short stroll N of the rest area.  A nature trail wound up a small hill to the dramatic rock formation at the very top.  The air was cool and moist, on the chilly side, actually, as SPHP took the long way around reading various plaques about the flora along the way.

Two ravens flew off as Lupe began the tiny scramble to the summit.  SPHP had no intention of getting up there, but was more than willing to provide the American Dingo with the required, slightly nerve-wracking, final boost.

On Finger Mountain again for the first time in nearly 5 years. Photo looks NW.

Oh, my gosh, SPHP!  Can’t believe I’m here on Finger Mountain again!

I know!  Seems so strange, and yet so familiar, doesn’t it?  You’ve almost done it, too.  Only 17 miles to the Arctic Circle from here.  The return of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood is nearly complete!

I’ve been neglecting my Arctic Sisterhood duties for a long time, SPHP, but it wasn’t my fault.  All Covid-19’s fault!

Tell me about it, Loop!  None of that matters now, though, we’re back!  This is as far as we’re going tonight, though.  Your all new adventures in the true Arctic start tomorrow, weather permitting, of course.

As the evening sky demonstrated, that last part was somewhat in doubt.  After helping Lupe down off Finger Mountain’s summit, a stroll was taken across the Dalton Highway to another, smaller rock outcropping with a view of Caribou Mountain (3,179 ft.) off to the WNW.

Remember our long journey to Caribou Mountain, Loop?  Nobody goes there.

How can I ever forget, SPHP?  It was all grand, until the very end.

Oh, yeah!  We got soaked, didn’t we?

I sure did, SPHP.  At least you had your old blue Cookie Monster outfit!

8-19-22, early – SPHP opened an eye.  Lupe was peering out the window of the RAV4 into a thick, gray fog.

You’re awake, SPHP?  Good!  Can you let me out for a few minutes?

Sure thing, Loop.  Need to sniff the air?

The Carolina Dog needed to do more than that.  Once out of the RAV4, Lupe puked along the perimeter of the wayside parking lot.  Not a lot, just a little.

Queasy, aye, Looper?  Too much lemon pepper chicken?  Don’t worry about it.  Unless this fog dissipates, we won’t be going anywhere for a while.

Returning to the RAV4, Lupe got back up onto her pink blanket.  Clearly, a morning snooze was in order.  By the time Loop woke up again, the fog had a blue tinge to it, and a bright spot revealed the position of the sun.

How ya feeling, Loopster?

Much better, SPHP, thank you!

Good!  Looks like this fog is about to break up.  Feel up to climbing Finger Mountain again?

It’s so easy, I might as well log another ascent while we’re still here, SPHP.  After all, not very often that I get the chance.  We ought to visit Finger Rock, too!

That’s the spirit!  You must be feeling better, Loop.  Glad to see it!

8-19-22, 8:24 AM –  In weak sunshine, Lupe stood atop Finger Mountain once again.  She stayed there only long enough for SPHP to get photos from a couple of different angles before helping her back down again.

Back atop Finger Mountain. Photo looks W.
The most dramatic angle. Photo looks SSW.
The greater Finger Mountain summit region. Photo looks NNE.

How was it up there, Loop?  Still feeling good enough to visit Finger Rock?

I’m fine now, SPHP.  Let’s do it!

Finger Rock, which Finger Mountain is named for, was 0.5 mile SSE of the true summit Lupe had already visited.  Bushes along an intermittent use path leading to it were soaking wet, and noticeably taller than the only other time Lupe had visited Finger Rock years ago.  By the time she got to it again, the Carolina Dog mighty soggy, too.

Plaque about Finger Mountain and Finger Rock.
Approaching Finger Rock (L). Photo looks SSE.

Since Finger Rock wasn’t the summit of anything other than itself, Lupe contented herself with a little light scrambling around on the big rocks near its base.  Finger Rock looked quite different, tall and skinny, or kind of fat and stout, depending on the angle of view.

The short, stout look. Photo looks E.
Sunny side. Photo looks WSW.

Content with her morning inspection of famous Finger Rock, Lupe headed back to the Finger Mountain Wayside.

8-19-22, 9:46 AM – From a boulder near the summit of Finger Mountain, Lupe scanned the Kanuti River basin.  Still quite cloudy that way.

Kanuti River Basin (R) from Finger Mountain. Photo looks N.

Just think!  We can see more than 2/3 of the remaining distance to the Arctic Circle from here, Loop.  Is the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood ready to resume her adventures in the true Arctic?

I can hardly wait, SPHP!  Been waiting for this day for a long, long time!

Me, too, Loopster!  Me, too!

On Finger Mountain, Yukon-Koyukuk Ranges, Alaska 8-18-22.

Links:

Next Adventure                        Prior Adventure

BLM Dalton Highway Visitor Guide

AB Mountain – Lupe Joins the Arctic Sisterhood, Skagway, Alaska (8-7-17).

Slope Mountain and Highlights of the Dalton Highway Revisited (8-22-17 & 8-23-17)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Slope Mountain & Highlights of the Dalton Highway Revisited, Alaska (8-22-17 & 8-23-17)

Days 23 & 24 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-22-17, 1:00 AM, near the Sagavanirktok River, Deadhorse, Alaska –  SPHP woke up thinking it might be possible for Lupe to see the Northern Lights.  Only 2 hours ago, the evening sky had been mostly clear.  Dream on.  Not now.  Foggy, again.  Maybe later?

No.  A thick fog prevailed every time SPHP checked.  Northern Lights?  Not happening.

4:14 AM – Still no change.  Time to get going anyway.  The Aurora Hotel in Deadhorse would be serving breakfast 4:30 AM to 7:30 AM.  SPHP didn’t want to miss out on that.  May as well beat the crowd and arrive early!  Lunch there yesterday had been fabulous.

4:37 AM, 39°F – Beat the crowd?  Ridiculous!  So naive, it’s funny!  The Aurora’s parking lot is already jammed with white pickup trucks.  Deadhorse is wide awake and bustling with activity.  Oilfield workers are getting breakfast in preparation for the long work day ahead.  SPHP finds a spot to squeeze the G6 into.  Loopster will have to wait here, but SPHP promises to save her something good from breakfast.

The breakfast buffet is simply awesome!  All you can eat for $12.00, tax included.  The lady SPHP pays is named Terry.  Terry says to feel free when leaving to use one of the paper bags or Styrofoam boxes to take enough extra food for a mid-morning snack later on.  Oh, yeah!  This is Loopster’s lucky day.

The buffet has pancakes, eggs, muffins, toast, waffles, potatoes, sausages, ham, bacon, fresh fruits, cottage cheese, tea, coffee, fruit juices, soft drinks and so much more.  You name it, the Aurora’s got it.  Whatever you want, as much as you like.  The huge dining room is 80% full with oilfield workers packing it away.  They are talking, laughing, and watching the morning news on big flat screen monitors mounted around the room.  SPHP sits near one of the huge windows with a view of Lake Colleen, watching ducks and geese in the early morning gloom.

None of the other tourists Lupe and SPHP had met along the Dalton Highway had anything good to say about Deadhorse.  Industrial.  Ugly.  Flat.  Boring.  Nothing to do.  Only a dull, drab turnaround spot for those who bothered going all the way to the end of the Dalton Highway.

Maybe Lupe agreed with them?  She hadn’t been able to go on the Arctic Ocean tour with SPHP yesterday, although she’d enjoyed a couple of nice walks along the beautiful Sagavanirktok River.

SPHP didn’t feel that way about Deadhorse at all.  Industrial?  Yes.  Kind of ugly?  Yes.  Yet it was awesome being way up here near the Arctic Ocean on the N edge of North America.  It would be fun to work up here and experience all the radically changing seasons of a long Arctic year, see whatever exotic wildlife might appear, and be part of a crew working long hours to keep the oilfield producing despite tough conditions.

It was exciting just watching the camaraderie of everyone getting ready to go to work in a very special environment.  Of course, maybe SPHP is just plain nuts.

Oh, Loop!  You lucky, Dingo!

Hmm?  What do you mean, SPHP?  What are you talking about?

You have just hit the jackpot Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood!

I have?  How?

Take a look at this!  Fresh bacon, sausages, and ham from the Aurora Hotel!  No smuggling a few tidbits to you this time around.  They said it was alright.  They expected and even encouraged me to take it!

Lupe’s eyes sparkled!  Why, it was a box full of delicious, delectable treasures!  She wasn’t just dreaming either.  It was all real.  She was rich!

I can’t believe it!  All this for me?  Can I have some now?

Go right ahead, Loop.  Help yourself.  Chow down while I find the gas station and fill up the G6.  We’ll be on our way out of Deadhorse soon.

What’s the rush?  Maybe we should stick around and make this a tradition?  Mmmm.  Oh my, this is scrumptious!  Thanks so much, SPHP!

After fueling up the G6, SPHP wrote up the second postcard that Lupe was sending to her Grandma from Deadhorse, the one with a picture of a sunset over Prudhoe Bay.  Then it was back to the Aurora Hotel real quick like to mail it.  It was light out now.  The fog was beginning to thin as Lupe and SPHP drove past Deadhorse Camp for the last time, starting the long journey S on the Dalton Highway.  (6:24 AM, 38°F)

6:58 AM, 34°F – Ten miles out of Deadhorse, the fog dissipates rapidly.  It was only a ground fog.  The Carolina Dog soon has views of morning sunlight on the flat tundra.  Mist rises from ponds and streams.

Lupe 15 miles out of Deadhorse on what is rapidly becoming a beautiful morning on Alaska’s North Slope.

8:38 AM, 47°F on the Dalton Highway – Woke up too many times last night.  After following a pilot car for 14 miles, SPHP is already sleepy.  A few miles farther, and Lupe is on a big hill near the place where she’d seen a faint rainbow on the way to Deadhorse a couple of days ago.  There’s a pullout by the road.  SPHP parks behind a couple of semi trucks.  Nap time despite the early hour!

10:19 AM – Awake and feeling much better.  Lupe is on her way again.  Pretty day.  Stop now and then for photos of the Sagavanirktok River.  The Brooks Range is in view far beyond the river, but Loop is getting closer to it as she continues S.

Lupe along the Dalton Highway with the Sagavanirktok River and the Brooks Range in sight beyond her. Photo looks SE.
Sagavanirktok River from the Dalton Highway. Photo looks NE.
The Sagavanirktok River flows N out of the Brooks Range all the way to the Arctic Ocean near Deadhorse and Prudhoe Bay. Photo looks SE.
Foothills of the Brooks Range from an unnamed pond along the Dalton Highway. Photo looks S.

11:37 AM, 57°F – On the way N to Deadhorse 2 days ago, Lupe had seen a lone mountain among clouds and mist not terribly far from the W side of the Dalton Highway.  Although there were lots more mountains off to the E, none of them were accessible, because Lupe would have had to ford the Sagavanirktok River to get to them.  However, that one lone mountain to the W had looked like access might not be an issue.  This mountain has been in view now for the past half hour.  Loop will soon be drawing near it again.

12:03 PM – Parked at the start of an Alaska oil pipeline access road just W of the Dalton Highway.  On the other side of the highway, a different side road heads E.  A street sign says “Slope Mountain Camp 1”.  The lone mountain W of the Dalton Highway must be Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.)! Even though it’s still a few miles off to the SW, it’s the only notable peak anywhere in this vicinity.

After a couple of days spent mostly in the G6, Lupe is ready for action!  It would be great fun to climb a mountain way out here on Alaska’s North Slope, and Slope Mountain is the best candidate she’s seen.  It’s not clear if she will have to ford any streams to get to the mountain, but it’s worth a reconnaissance trip to check it out.  If Looper can get to the base of Slope Mountain, success seems assured.  It looks like an easy climb.

Lupe about to set off on a reconnaissance mission to see if its possible to climb Slope Mountain (L), which is still several miles away. Looks easy from here, if she can get to the mountain without having to ford any big streams or rivers. Photo looks SW.

The first part of the trek is a cinch.  Lupe and SPHP follow the access road leading to the Alaska oil pipeline, then follow the service road near the pipeline SW.  The plan is to get as close as possible to a large saddle between Slope Mountain and a lower hill to the NE before leaving the service road to strike out for the saddle.

Lupe near the red gate at the start of the access road leading to the Alaska oil pipeline. She will follow a service road near the pipeline SW (L) before striking out for the big saddle seen beyond her in the distance. Photo looks W.

As Lupe follows the pipeline, it becomes apparent that there is almost certainly a stream between here and Slope Mountain.  No stream is in view, but a telltale line of tall bushes 0.25 mile away runs along the lowest part of a large drainage area.  The only way to find out how big the stream might be is to march right on down there.

Away from the service road, the tundra becomes increasingly boggy and full of tussocks as Loop makes her way down a long slope.  Upon reaching the bushes, she has to cross a couple of gullies which must represent old, abandoned stream channels.  Lupe forces a way through a thick stand of bushes, and arrives on the bank of a small river.

After forcing a way through the bushes, Lupe arrives at a small river. Photo looks W.

The stream is deepest near the opposite bank, and appears to be at least knee deep on SPHP.  Bushes crowding the far shore look like they might make getting out of the stream a bit of a pain, and the current is fairly strong.  Yes, the river looks fordable, but SPHP isn’t eager to take it on.  Lupe will have to swim, and it isn’t clear where she can get out on the other side.

Lupe and SPHP stand there, pondering the situation.  Things don’t look much different either upstream or downstream.  Hmm.  So close, yet so far!  The stream isn’t dangerous, but not wanting to get soaking wet, SPHP finally decides it isn’t worth risking slipping and falling in, which might easily happen.  The river is just a little too deep, and the current a little too strong.

Sigh.  Lupe and SPHP turn and head back to the Alaska oil pipeline service road.  The return trip is a fun hike, and the Carolina Dog has a blast sniffing and exploring all along the way.

Once back at the G6 (2:03 PM), SPHP continues driving S on the Dalton Highway.  Even though Looper’s initial reconnaissance hasn’t produced the desired result, perhaps there is an alternative?  Maybe a route to Slope Mountain exists which avoids the river, or at least crosses it at a more favorable point?

Not until Lupe is S of Slope Mountain does SPHP find what looks like the most promising approach.  Shortly after the Dalton Highway crosses the small river (signed Oskyruk… something or other) that blocked Lupe’s first attempt, SPHP parks the G6 at a small pullout near the top of a rise.  This pullout is 100 feet S of milepost 297 on the E side of the road.

Across the highway, a long golden slope beyond the Alaska oil pipeline leads toward the mountain.  No major drainages can be seen between here and Slope Mountain’s summit.  The summit is once again miles away, and Loop faces a long trek to a big ramp leading up to the top of the mountain.  Nevertheless, the American Dingo shouldn’t have any problem getting there from here!

Lupe ready for another attempt on Slope Mountain. The summit is on the L. Photo looks NNE.

This time (2:33 PM, 57°F), the Carolina Dog follows the Alaska oil pipeline service road a mile NE until it starts to lose elevation.  She then leaves the road, turning N to begin a long, steady trek up the golden slope leading to Slope Mountain.

Unsurprisingly, much of the tundra is spongy and wet.  Tussocks slow SPHP’s progress, and make the gentle climb far more energy draining than it would be on firmer terrain.  Wide bands of greener vegetation mark the course of numerous little streams seeping and trickling down the long slope.

Loop and SPHP plod on and on, aiming for the lower end of a big golden ramp, an obvious route leading almost all the way to the top of Slope Mountain.  This is such a remote area, SPHP has high hopes Lupe will see some animals up here, but none ever appear.  SPHP does scare up a flight of 5 or 6 birds, which excites the American Dingo!  For a while, she dashes around in wide circles searching for more, but doesn’t come across any.

Nothing really changes until Loop reaches the base of a fairly steep rocky hillside.  An easy scramble brings Loop up onto the big ramp she has been aiming for all this time.  Part of the ramp is strewn with loose rock, and the rest consists of still more spongy, damp tundra.

After a miles long march across a tussocky slope and a short scramble up a hillside of rock, Lupe arrives on the big ramp she will follow almost all the way to the top of Slope Mountain. Photo looks NE.

The rocky parts of the ramp are easier traveling than the soggy tundra.  For quite a long way, Lupe sticks to the rocky SE edge of the ramp where the views are best.  When the rocks eventually give out, she crosses the tundra to reach the base of the higher ridge to the NW.

Along the SE edge of the big ramp. Loop eventually went over to the base of the highest ridge seen on the L, and continued up the ramp over there. She didn’t climb up onto the highest ridge until she was nearly to the top of the mountain. Photo looks NE.

Lupe and SPHP follow the base of the higher ridge, staying close to the area where the rocks and tundra meet.  Many rocks have broken into relatively thin flat layers.  In some places, they form a sort of natural flagstone pathway.

Back down on the long slope leading to Slope Mountain, Lupe had stuck pretty close to SPHP most of the time.  Up on the big ramp, though, Looper takes off running and exploring.  She runs far ahead of SPHP, and spends her time investigating whatever her super sensitive Dingo nose tells her might be interesting.  Apparently, she finds actually being up on Slope Mountain more to her liking.

Loop hasn’t quite reached the end of the big ramp when SPHP figures maybe it’s time to climb up onto the higher ridge.  This involves another easy scramble, and doesn’t take long.  Upon reaching the top, a large tower is in sight only 200 yards off to the N.  The tower stands at the summit of Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.).

Almost there! Lupe discovers this big tower at the summit of Slope Mountain. Photo looks N.
Although climbing Slope Mountain wasn’t at all difficult, SPHP told Lupe it was still one of her greatest accomplishments. After all, Slope Mountain is farther N than any other mountain she has ever climbed. Surely, few Dingoes have ever been on a mountain N of the Brooks Range in Alaska! Photo looks N.

Mechanical noises are coming from a couple of sheds near the tower.  The summit area is 5 to 10 acres in size, flat to gently sloping, and covered with small rocks and sparse vegetation.  To the N and E, a lip of the mountain drops off rather sharply, but the resulting cliffs aren’t all that high.  Passing by the tower, Lupe sees two cairns ahead.

By far the largest cairn is a tower of flat stones near the N edge of the summit area.  Someone had put an awful lot of work into creating it.

Lupe by the largest of two cairns on Slope Mountain. Someone had put an awful lot of work into building this one! Photo looks E.
Lupe had tremendous views of Alaska’s North Slope from up on Slope Mountain. The Sagavanirktok River is seen in the distance. Photo looks NE.

More than 50 feet to the W, a faded orange wind sock flies above a much smaller cairn.  This cairn is decorated with antlers.

Lupe checks the wind direction indicated by the faded orange wind sock at the top of the smaller cairn. She didn’t really need the wind sock, though, to tell that a chilly breeze was now blowing out of the S. Photo looks NW.

Although it had been sunny and comfortably warm when Lupe struck out for Slope Mountain, a chilly S breeze is blowing now.  The sky has clouded over to a considerable degree, and is rather dark to the S where a line of showers can be seen N of the Brooks Range.  SPHP forgot the rain poncho back at the G6, so a cold rain is nothing to look forward to.

Unfortunately, with the weather deteriorating, Lupe isn’t going to be able to stay up on top of Slope Mountain very long.  About 15 minutes is all the Carolina Dog is going to get before it will be time to vamoose.  That is a shame.  The views of Alaska’s North Slope are fantastic!

Off to the W is a 6 mile long row of big rounded hills featuring sweeping curves.  These hills are roughly 400 feet lower than Slope Mountain.  Lupe can see the top of slightly higher Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) 10 miles away beyond them.

Imnavait Mountain (Center) appears a few miles beyond a line of big rounded hills W of Slope Mountain. Photo looks WNW.

To the N, dark beneath a purple gray sky, Alaska’s flat, featureless North Slope stretches away to a dim horizon.  The Sagavanirktok River, which Lupe has come to know over the past couple of days, can still be seen many miles away to the NE.  Both the Alaska oil pipeline and Dalton Highway are visible closer by in this direction, too.

The best views, however, are of Alaska’s mighty Brooks Range running 180° from the NE to the E and S all the way around to the SW.  Lupe sees many fabulous snow capped peaks, but SPHP doesn’t know the names of any of them.

The Accomplishment Creek valley (Center). Photo looks SE toward the Brooks Range.
Lupe could see many impressive snowy peaks of the Brooks Range. Photo looks SSE.

SPHP is very glad Lupe has made it to the top of Slope Mountain, but it is disappointing to have to depart so soon.  Yet it’s the prudent thing to do.  Loopster stands sniffing the breeze for a final few moments, while SPHP gazes in wonder upon the glorious views from the mountain farthest N of all the peaks Lupe has ever climbed.

Even concentrating with my eyes closed, I can’t detect a thing, SPHP. I was hoping to sniff out some more ham, bacon and sausages from the Aurora Hotel. I wish you would have brought some in your pocket!

As Looper and SPHP leave Slope Mountain’s summit, electronic noises similar to animal calls begin being emitted from somewhere over by the big tower.  Very strange indeed, but no animals appear in response to the tower’s pleas.  The noises are soon left behind.  Lupe follows the big ramp back down to about where she first reached it on her way up the mountain.

From here, the Carolina Dog takes a more direct route down to the Alaska oil pipeline.  This saves time, but it’s still a long way, and results in a longer, but easier march back on the service road to the G6.  Thankfully, the rain showers never do catch up with Lupe, having drifted off in another direction.  (8:40 PM, 51°F)

The evening is spent some miles farther S at a very large pullout along the E side of the Dalton Highway where a semi truck sits idling.  The pullout is on a high spot from which Lupe can still see Slope Mountain as dusk creeps over the land.  (9:40 PM)

8-23-17, 6:25 AM, 38°F at a pullout along the Dalton Highway within sight of Slope Mountain, Toolik Lake, and the N side of the Brooks Range – That semi truck idled for hours here last night, but finally quit.  A hard rain then fell for a while, but it’s not raining now.  For once it isn’t foggy out.  The morning sky is mostly cloudy, but these clouds are high and non-threatening.  Small patches of blue sky mean there’s still hope Lupe stands a chance of climbing Table Mountain (6,314 ft.) today, her last peakbagging goal along the Dalton Highway.

While the morning sky wasn’t super encouraging, there was still hope Lupe would be able to climb Table Mountain today, her last 2017 peakbagging goal along the Dalton Highway. Photo looks SE toward the Brooks Range.

7:30 AM, 38°F – After driving S a little way just to warm up, SPHP parks the G6 again at the side road near milepost 278 where Lupe has twice gone on her short Stroll to the North Slope Knoll adventures.  Loop and SPHP share a breakfast of soup, while enjoying views of the North Slope and the N side of the Brooks Range for the last time.

9:18 AM, 44°F – It’s a lovely day!  Loop has stopped briefly at a side road a short distance S of the Dalton Highway bridge over the Atigun River.  Lake Benchmark Mountain, which Loopster climbed 5 days ago in rain, snow, and fog is in clear view.  Too bad conditions back then weren’t like they are now.  At least the American Dingo had succeeded in reaching the summit, despite climbing the wrong mountain first.

Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.) (L) which Lupe had climbed 5 days ago in rain, snow, mist and fog is in clear view from a side road a little S of the Dalton Highway bridge over the Atigun River. Photo looks NNE.

10:10 AM, 32°F – Lovely day?  Hah!  So much for that.  After a gorgeous drive S up the Atigun River valley, a snowstorm greets Loop at Atigun Pass.  The snow is already sticking to the road.  Probably a good thing Lupe is getting S of the pass.  Wouldn’t take much of a snowstorm to make the Dalton Highway impassable here for the G6.  Still more than a week to go in August, and it’s a real possibility!

Lupe arrives at Atigun Pass in a snowstorm. Good thing she’s on her way S of the pass before the G6 can no longer make it over.

10:52 AM, 39°F – Weather conditions are definitely better here at the Chandalar Shelf than up at Atigun Pass.  However, it’s still marginal for an attempt on Table Mountain.  There’s actually some blue sky around, but plenty of clouds and patches of fog are sweeping by from out of the Dietrich River valley, too.  The summit of Table Mountain can sometimes be seen.  Definitely considerably more new snow up there than the last time Lupe dropped by 3 days ago.

Having spent a while dithering over whether it is a good idea or not, Loop and SPHP set off across the Chandalar Shelf heading for Table Mountain (6,314 ft.).

Not even 10 miles from Atigun Pass, weather conditions are much better here at the Chandalar Shelf. Photo looks E.
Conditions are still marginal, however, for an attempt on Table Mountain (L). Clouds and fog sail by from out of the Dietrich River valley. Photo looks S.

11:26 AM, 39°F – Well, that was a total flopperoo!  Already back at the G6.  The wind driving clouds up out of the Dietrich River valley was just plain chilly.  SPHP’s feet were soon soaking wet from marching across the Chandalar Shelf’s boggy tundra.  Visibility was constantly being threatened by fog.

Table Mountain is a good long day hike.  No way was Lupe going to make it to the summit under these conditions.  Even if she did, who knew if the Carolina Dog would be able to see anything up there hours from now?  Spending the whole day cold, wet, and miserable for such an uncertain result simply wasn’t worth it.

Too bad, though.  Table Mountain always looked like a terrific, fun peak.  Lupe has been by the Chandalar Shelf four times now, but conditions have never been right.  This was her last chance.  Oh, well.  Two minutes after making it back to the G6, it starts to rain.  Yeah, returning was the right decision.

SPHP promises Lupe she can go on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure again near Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.).  It’s much shorter, easier, and can be done whether the weather is decent or not.  In fact, with Table Mountain now off the table, the rest of the day will be spent revisiting several of Loopster’s favorite quick stops along the Dalton Highway on the way back to Fairbanks.

12:25 PM, 48°F – The G6 is parked W of the Dalton Highway just S of the Dietrich River (S of milepost 207).  Lupe is excited!  The American Dingo recognizes this place.  Her 2016 Last Mile North adventure is one of her very favorites.  It’s an easy stroll N along the Alaska oil pipeline service road to a stream flowing W from a valley N of Dillon Mountain.

The original longer version of this adventure follows the stream all the way W to a confluence with the Dietrich River.  With 207 miles yet to go on the Dalton Highway today, Loop isn’t going to go all the way to the confluence.  Still, this will be a genuine treat for the Carolina Dog.

Lupe is eager to get going!  She doesn’t want to waste a single minute.  It’s virtually non-stop running, sniffing, chasing, and exploring the whole way.

After crossing the bridge over the Dietrich River, Lupe stops for a look at magnificent Sukakpak Mountain, one of the Dalton Highway’s best known landmarks.
Lupe climbed Sukakpak Mountain in 2016. It was her first big adventure in this part of the Brooks Range. Photo looks S.

After crossing the bridge over the Dietrich River, the 1.25 mile long trek N along the Alaska oil pipeline service road is pure fun.  Although it’s mostly cloudy out and sometimes sprinkles rain, Loop and SPHP barely even notice.  Lupe has been expending so much energy, she plops herself down in the stream NW of Dillon Mountain to cool off as soon as she gets there.  She emerges soaking wet, looking like this is the greatest day of her life!

This is just the most fun ever, SPHP!
At the stream that flows W to the Dietrich River from N of Dillon Mountain (R). Lupe also made it to the top of Dillon Mountain in 2016, another grand adventure! Photo looks SE.
Happy Lupe at one of her favorite spots in the Brooks Range.
Hey, SPHP! Why don’t you build us a cabin in the woods somewhere around here? That way we can come and do this every day!

The return trip along the Alaska oil pipeline is no less busy and fun.  Lupe crisscrosses the service road umpteen times, dashing back and forth between excursions into the forests on each side.  The glorious scenery includes views of Sukakpak Mountain and Dillon Mountain where Lupe had two of her greatest adventures ever in 2016.

Looking W from the Alaska oil pipeline service road.
Busy times near the Alaska oil pipeline.
Looking SW along the pipeline service road.

All too soon, Lupe is back at the Dietrich River.  Loop’s 4th time on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure is about over.  Before long she’s back at the G6, saying goodbye to Dillon Mountain.  (1:43 PM, 52°F)

Back at the Dietrich River, Lupe’s 4th time on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure is nearly over. Sukakpak Mountain and the Dalton Highway bridge over the river are in view. The G6 is on the R. Photo looks S.
Back at the G6. Time to say goodbye to Dillon Mountain (Center). Photo looks E.

Only 6 or 7 miles S of the Dietrich River, Lupe and SPHP stop briefly again.  A few minutes are spent bidding farewell to Sukakpak Mountain.

Looper bids farewell to Sukakpak Mountain. Photo looks NE.

Coldfoot is only 25 miles S of Sukakpak.  SPHP stops by the restaurant hoping for another great buffet, like the wonderful breakfast buffet enjoyed here 4 or 5 days ago.  It’s too late in the day for that.  An enormous “standard” burger with fries for $10.95 isn’t a bad substitute, but Loop doesn’t come away with a buffet windfall like the one SPHP brought her from the Aurora Hotel yesterday morning.

After fueling up, Lupe and SPHP keep cruising S on the Dalton Highway.  (3:35 PM)  Loop sees Cathedral Mountain again 6 or 7 miles S of Coldfoot, but SPHP doesn’t stop until she’s all the way to the Arctic Circle.  (5:01 PM, 51°F)

Six days after crossing it going N, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood returns to the Arctic Circle.

5:51 PM, 50°F – Lupe’s last summit along the Dalton Highway is a trivial one.  She makes the short 100 yard stroll E from the highway to the big cluster of rocks on top of Finger Mountain.  SPHP gives her a needed boost.  Caribou Mountain is in sight off to the WNW.

Lupe back up on Finger Mountain, her final ascent along the Dalton Highway. Not much of a climb, but she can see Caribou Mountain (L) in the distance. Photo looks WNW.
Looking NNW toward the broad Kanuti River valley from Finger Mountain.
The summit of Caribou Mountain (L) is in view directly beyond Loop. A week ago, Lupe and SPHP had been up there. Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Finger Mountain is a short, but worthwhile stop.  However, Loopster’s journey S along the Dalton Highway soon continues.  (6:09 PM)  The last major landmark is the Yukon River.  (7:11 PM, 57°F)  A couple of dogs down by the river want to be friends with Lupe, but she’s having none of that.  Although it’s a beautiful evening, with those dogs pestering her, it’s two photos and the Carolina Dog is ready to scram.  (7:26 PM)

On the N bank of the mighty Yukon River. Photo looks S.
The Yukon River looks like a placid lake on this beautiful evening. Photo looks W.

S of the Yukon River, Lupe’s 2017 adventures along the Dalton Highway are nearing their end.  Loop and SPHP have had a fabulous time.  The scenic miles go by one after another.  Suddenly, Loop and SPHP both see something they’ve never ever seen before.  A big wildcat, a lynx, is near the edge of the highway!

The lynx hesitates 4 or 5 seconds.  It had intended to cross the road, but changes its mind.  As the G6 approaches, the lynx turns and slinks back into the forest.  Lupe is all excited, but she won’t see the lynx again.

Ten minutes later, it’s all over.  In two days, Lupe has traveled all 414 miles of the Dalton Highway from Deadhorse near Prudhoe Bay back to its start near Livengood.  Eight days after leaving Fairbanks to come here, Lupe stands once again at the big sign marking the S end of the Dalton Highway.  (8:59 PM, 50°F)

Back at the S end of the Dalton Highway. The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood spent 8 days along the Dalton Highway in 2017, 6 of them actually N of the Arctic Circle. Fabulous times that won’t soon be forgotten.

What tremendous fun it had all been!  Climbing glorious mountains, dodging rain, snow and fog, feasting and starving, seeing sights few will ever see while this remote part of the world remains wild and unspoiled, all the way to the Arctic Ocean and back.

NW of Dillon Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-23-17

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