Carolina Dog – Page 16 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Peak 4916, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-30-24)

Day 30 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2024 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

12:08 AM – Despite the low clouds reflecting the lights of Deadhorse that were spitting light rain, and a chill W wind, Lupe wanted out. SPHP joined the Carolina Dog while she sniffed around in the darkness.

Lights of **Deadhorse** near Prudhoe Bay.

Probably the last time we’ll see the lights of Deadhorse, at least on this Dingo Vacation, Loopster.

Oh, are we leaving tomorrow, SPHP?

Yup. August is just about shot, Loop. Time to head S. With a little luck, maybe we can climb a few peaks in the Brooks Range, if the weather will cooperate.

That was a big if, given how rainy the Brooks Range had been not so long ago on the way N.

5:42 AM – Lupe had her last sniff along the Sagavanirktok River, a rosy glow on the ENE horizon in an otherwise gray sky beyond her. Within minutes, even more clouds moved in, turning the entire scene gray.

That’s it! C’mon, Looper. We’ve got 2 errands to run in Deadhorse before we head S.

Make that 3 errands. When SPHP fired up the RAV4, the tire pressure warning light came on and never went out. No obvious flat, but better check it out.

6:40 AM, 38ºF, Deadhorse, Colville automated gas station – After filling the RAV4 at the bargain price of $6.998 per gallon (over 8 bucks 2 years ago), SPHP checked the pressure on all 4 tires. First 3 were at 33 psi, a couple of pounds low, likely just due to the cold. However, the L front tire was at only 31 psi. A slow leak?

Lights were on at a big shop building next to the gas station. A couple of mechanics were in there working on a semi. Could SPHP get all 4 tires aired up a bit here? Sure! No sooner said than done.

And could they recommend a place to get that left front tire repaired, or at least checked for leaks? SPHP was shocked by the reply. Nope! No one they knew of worked on light vehicles here. Everyone works on big rigs. Since the leak seems to be a slow one, just drive to Coldfoot on the S side of the Brooks Range. They’ll be able to take care of it.

Hardly seemed possible, Coldfoot was 240 miles away. Yet, as mechanics, they ought to know the situation around here.

Better be a really slow leak, is all I can say, Loopster.

Don’t we have a spare, SPHP?

Yeah. Kind of hoping we won’t have to use it. It’ll be fun going over Atigun Pass running that little doughnut, Sweet Puppy.

7:39 AM, 37ºF – At Brooks Supply, SPHP bought the last souvenirs of Lupe’s stay in Deadhorse, a set of 4 coffee mugs. All the same, they were beautiful with depictions of trees, moose, and mountains on them. The inscription said “Alaska – Land of the Midnight Sun”.

6 bucks each, can you believe it, Loop? Must have been on clearance.

Errands done, and the low tire pressure light out for the time being, Lupe left Deadhorse beneath a gloomy sky. Bucking a headwind, it felt like a day in late November back home. Comfortably warm, the RAV4 rolled right along, though, and the American Dingo was bright and alert.

Maybe we’ll see some musk oxen, SPHP! Like back in 2022.

Hope so. That would be awesome, Loopster!

No musk oxen appeared, but big rounded ridges E of the Sagavanirktok River valley eventually did as the clouds started to break up. They were white.

Snow, SPHP!

Wow! Must have been snowing here while we were in Deadhorse the last couple of days, Loop. C’mon, let’s get a picture!

**Snow on the highlands** beyond the Sagavanirktok River. Photo looks SE.

Continuing S, the sky was soon looking brighter and brighter to the SW.

Well, I’ll be. Appears we’re going to drive out from under this enormous cloud, Looper. There actually is an end to it.

Before that even happened, an electrifying scene appeared ahead. The entire Brooks Range was a glorious, pristine, winter white! Never in all her summer Dingo Vacations to Canada and Alaska, had Lupe ever seen so much new snow in any of the mountain ranges she’d visited.

My gosh! Could be January, SPHP.

Simply stunning! We’ve got to get some photos, Loop!

Lupe was soon leaping out of the RAV4 every few miles as one gorgeous scene after another appeared.

Approaching the **Brooks Range**. Photo looks S.

On the **Dalton Highway** shortly before driving out from under the cloud. Photo looks S.

**Toolik Lake** (Center). Photo looks W.

After heading W for several miles, once Toolik Lake came into view, the Dalton Highway turned S again, straight into the Brooks Range. SPHP became transfixed by the sight of a gleaming white mountain towering above all others beneath the uncharacteristically clear Arctic sky.

Heading into the **Brooks Range**. **Mount Kiev** (R) beyond **Lake 2892**. Photo looks S.

Oh, my gosh, Loop! That’s Mount Kiev (7,775 ft.)!

Spectacular! I can’t remember ever seeing its summit before, SPHP. Have we?

Perhaps a momentary glimpse among the clouds, Loopster, but never out in a clear blue sky like this before. Maybe we can climb it tomorrow?

Tomorrow? What about today, SPHP? It’s perfect, we can’t let it go to waste.

As slow as I am, Mount Kiev is a long way for us, Looper. It’ll take a 2, or maybe even 3 day backpacking trip, and today will be half shot before we can even set out. There’s another mountain on your list of possibilities that we still might be able to climb this afternoon, though.

And which one is that, SPHP?

Remember West Galbraith Peak (4,560 ft.), Loop? Peak 4916, the high point of a long ridge on the edge of the North Slope, is NW of it. Ought to have some incredible views on a day like this.

Sounds terrific! Let’s climb Peak 4916 today then, SPHP.

**Mount Kiev** (Center) and **West Galbraith Peak** (R of Center) beyond **Lake 2892**. **Peak 4916** (R edge). Photo looks S.

The plan had been to stay at the Galbraith Lake campground, if the tire pressure light didn’t come on again, and it hadn’t. Suddenly, given the opportunity presented by these totally unexpected amazing conditions, there was reason to get there as soon as possible. Even so, the views were so awesome, SPHP kept stopping along the road.

Approaching **Galbraith Lake** (L). **Mount Kiev** (far R). Photo looks S.

**Mount Kiev** (Center), **West Galbraith Peak** (R). Photo looks S.

**Peak 4600** (Center) and **Peak 4916** (R) from the airstrip and campground access road. Photo looks SW.

**Mount Kiev** (L) beyond **West Galbraith Peak** (R). Photo looks S.

It’s all incredibly beautiful, SPHP, but if we want to climb Peak 4916 today, we need to quit dinking around and get to the campground!

I know. We’re almost there, Looper. Just a few more minutes. You’ll see.

**Peak 5308** (L of Center) and **Peak 7090** (R) from the campground entrance. Photo looks ESE.

1:41 PM, 49ºF, Galbraith Lake Campground – After skipping breakfast, lunch was an absolute necessity before heading into the mountains. SPHP had heated up a can of Dinty Moore chicken & dumplings, a Lupe favorite, to share with the American Dingo. The afternoon had warmed up nicely, the sky remained crystal clear, and the pack was now ready.

Off to the WSW, the big gap N of West Galbraith Peak (4,560 ft.) leading into the valley S of Peak 4916 beckoned.

**West Galbraith Peak** (L) from the **Galbraith Lake Campground**. Photo looks WSW.

Time’s a-wasting! All set, SPHP?

You better believe it! Onward! Puppy, ho!

Taking the loop road to the W side of the campground, Lupe then headed WSW across the tundra. After crossing the access road leading back to the Galbraith airstrip and Dalton Highway, the Carolina Dog ventured up a still colorful tundra slope toward the gap.

Heading for the **gap** (Center) N of **West Galbraith Peak** (L). Photo looks SW.

What little snow was down at this elevation added a bright, white purity to the tundra, but was melting fast. Lupe ate mouthfuls of it. A gradual climb soon led to a flat region that dipped a little ahead. Beyond this plain, HP3500, a 100+ foot high ridge, divided the approach to the valley leading to Peak 4916 into 2 separate routes.

**HP3500** (L of Center). Lupe could go either L (S) or R (N) of it. Photo looks WSW.

SPHP’s initial inclination was to explore the lower route N of HP3500. However, the flat region proved to be boggy. Staying S, where the ground was slightly higher and drier, was better. As a result, Lupe wound up heading for Pass 3350 between West Galbraith Peak and HP3500, since that pass was now closer.

Heading for **Pass 3350** (L) between **West Galbraith Peak** (far L) and **HP3500** (Center). Photo looks WSW.

Along the way, the views were simply incredible! Lupe had explored this region once before. Exactly 2 years ago today, she’d climbed both West Galbraith Peak (4,560 ft.) and Peak 5050. The new snow made everything even more beautiful now.

Mount Kiev (7,775 ft.) was almost directly S. Peak 5305 was SSE. The white monster much farther SE was Peak 7090. Meanwhile, nearly due E, Peak 5308 loomed over the Atigun River valley.

**Mount Kiev** (L), **West Galbraith Peak** (R). Photo looks SSW.

**Mount Kiev** (L of Center) with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks S.

**Peak 5305** (L), **Mount Kiev** (R). Photo looks S.

**Peak 5308** (L) and **Peak 7090** (R). Photo looks ESE.

Skirting the S end of the boggy region, the American Dingo eventually had to start climbing again as she approached the pass. As Lupe gained elevation, Galbraith Lake started coming into view behind her. Beyond it, Lake Benchmark Mountain (4,950 ft.) was also in sight, a mountain she had climbed years ago on a day that had begun wonderfully clear like this, but turned foggy.

Getting closer to **Pass 3350** (R of Center). **West Galbraith Peak** (L). Photo looks WSW.

**Lake Benchmark Mountain** (L) and **Peak 5308** (R of Center) beyond **Galbraith Lake**. Photo looks ENE.

Upon reaching Pass 3350, Peak 4500 was in sight just beyond it. The pass was plenty wide and easy terrain, except that most of the center was soft and squishy wet. Trying to avoid sinking into mud, SPHP tried both sides of the pass, the N side first, then the S, which was better.

At **Pass 3350**. **Peak 4500** (L), **HP3500** (R). Photo looks WSW.

Once over Pass 3350, the terrain sloped gradually down to the valley W of West Galbraith Peak. Peak 4916 came into view along the way.

Starting down the **SW side of Pass 3350**. **Peak 4500** (L). Photo looks WSW.

**Peak 4916** (L of Center) beyond Lupe. Photo looks WNW.

Upon reaching a small stream in the valley W of West Galbraith Peak, Lupe crossed it, then regained some elevation as she went around the end of Peak 4500’s NE ridge. This got her to the valley she intended to explore today.

**West Galbraith Peak** from the little stream W of it. Photo looks SE.

Entering the valley SE of **Peak 4916** (R). Photo looks W.

Doing great, Loop! All we have to do now is head WSW up this big valley until we decide on the best place to begin our ascent.

Staying on the S side, somewhat above the floor of the valley where the ground was firmer, Lupe made excellent progress traversing a relatively gentle slope. Before long, the Carolina Dog came to 2 tiny streams in wet washes, easily crossing both as she continued on her way.

“Wet washes” are a thing, aren’t they, Looper? I’ve often heard the term “dry wash” used for a dry, eroded ravine or gully, but come to think of it, I don’t recall ever actually hearing anyone use the term wet wash before.

I suppose they are, SPHP. Makes sense to me. A wet wash is just a dry wash that isn’t dry, right? Hardly a burning issue of social significance, though. Don’t think you need worry about it. Have you decided where we’re going to cross the valley and start up Peak 4916 yet?

Not necessarily. Looks like multiple routes might work. Kind of steeper than I expected, though. Let’s stick with this traverse a little farther. See that high, level ridge on the other side of the valley with some snow on it? It’s SW of Peak 4916’s summit, so a somewhat longer route, but it doesn’t look very hard to get up there. Maybe we ought to try that approach?

Exploring the scenic valley was fun, and there seemed to be adequate time left in the day yet, so why not? Lupe trotted along, happily sniffing and roaming at will, soon reaching a much larger dry wash.

Crossing the **dry wash**. Possible **objective ridge with snow** (R). Photo looks W.

**Peak 4916** (Center) from the dry wash. Photo looks NW.

Beyond the dry wash, the American Dingo came to a big rock. By now, several possible routes up Peak 4916 were in sight. Directly across the valley, a short route up the mountain’s SE ridge appeared feasible, but quite steep. Another one up the nearby S ridge looked similar.

Getting up to that flat, snowy part of the SW ridge still looks easier. Mind if we go that way, Loop, even though it’s a longer route?

More to explore is always fine with me, SPHP.

**Peak 4916** (R) from the big rock. **SE ridge** (R), **S ridge** (Center) in front of the **snowy SW ridge**. Photo looks NW.

With a plan of action now decided upon, Lupe made a gradual descent through a bushy region down to the stream in the center of the valley. After crossing it, she followed the streambed upstream. Coming to other small channels, all were easily crossed. Soon it was time to start angling WNW up the other side of the valley.

A march through another region of bushes and bogginess led to a second dry wash. Beyond it, Lupe climbed a gentle slope to an area with some tundra. This spot had a terrific view of a short side valley immediately S of Peak 4916, as well as farther up the main valley.

4:17 PM, 0.5 mile S of the Peak 4916 summit –

This is a great spot, SPHP! Might not come to another one, once we begin our ascent. I’m getting hungry again, too. Mind if we take a break here?

Sure, but only a short one, Loop, since we got off to kind of a late start.

At the **break spot**. **Peak 4916’s S ridge** (R), **SW ridge** (Center). Photo looks NNW.

A glance back at **Peak 4500** (R of Center). Lupe came up the valley from the L. Photo looks ESE.

After having some Taste of the Wild and a piece of duck jerky, Lupe sat for a few minutes staring SSW farther up the main valley. The N end of Peak 5050, which she’d climbed exactly 2 years ago today by a different route, was right across the valley. Exploring farther up the main valley toward an even higher snowy peak at the far end looked like fun.

**N ridge of Peak 5050** (L). Photo looks SSW.

Maybe someday. While SPHP sat munching on sunflower seeds, Lupe put her head down on the soft tundra, closed her eyes, and snoozed.

4:43 PM – A mighty short nap, but the Carolina Dog did appear to be at least somewhat refreshed.

Ready, Loopster? Not sure how this is going to go. Once we make it up onto the SW ridge, I’m seeing some gnarly-looking rock bands and minor cliffs that we’ll face on the way to the summit. Can’t tell from down here if we’ll be able to get around them, or not.

Only way to find out is to start climbing, SPHP. Unless you’ve changed your mind and want to try some other route?

Having come this far, Peak 4916’s S ridge was now the only other route close by, and it was steeper, nearly all rock, and had some questionable rock formations along the ridgeline, too. Might work, but the tundra slope leading up to the SW ridge looked a lot easier.

Naw. Let’s just head up to the SW ridge, and take our chances, Loop.

The SW ridge was 1,000 feet above the break spot. Heading W, then NW, Lupe began her ascent, showing surprising enthusiasm and energy. The mostly tundra and scree-covered slopes weren’t uniform. Steep most of the way, but with short, significantly easier stretches, too.

Heading up to **Peak 4916’s SW ridge**. Photo looks NW.

During frequent pauses to gasp for air, SPHP kept an eye on the route Lupe would have to take after reaching the ridgeline. Most of it looked fine, but without rock climbing skills, it wouldn’t take that much to hit an insurmountable obstacle. Success wasn’t nearly as certain as SPHP had originally assumed it would be.

Halfway up, at the 4,000 foot level, Lupe came to the brink of a sudden, unexpected drop. This near vertical drop was a mere 10 or 15 feet, but immediately raised concern. Fortunately, the American Dingo quickly discovered a safe spot to scramble down without having to backtrack.

Lupe at the **edge of the dip**. Photo looks N.

That dip was the only real obstacle encountered on the way up to the SW ridge. Once beyond it, Lupe gained a few hundred feet of elevation on fairly steep terrain before coming to an easier stretch, a gentler slope where tundra extended the rest of the way to the ridgeline.

**Easy slope leading to the SW ridge** (far L). **Peak 4916** (far R). Photo looks NNE.

5:42 PM – Lupe reached the SW ridge at broad, rounded saddle. It was a different world up here. Miniature snowdrifts covered an enticing route leading to a higher point farther SW, unfortunately the wrong direction. A NW breeze sweeping over the ridge made SPHP shiver. Suddenly, the sun seemed lower.

For the first time, the Carolina Dog could now see the territory N of the ridge she was on. The view was amazing, but not what SPHP expected.

Shoot! Thought we would have a grand view of Alaska’s North Slope from up here, Loopster.

Might want to take a look at your topo map once in a while, SPHP. I can’t believe it doesn’t show this.

Directly N, where SPHP had expected the North Slope to be, a nearby ridge blocked the view. Looking W, a series of distant mountains and ridges extended from the N edge of the Brooks Range toward a narrow view of the North Slope.

**Peak 4916’s NW ridge**, which blocked the view of the North Slope. Photo looks N.

**N edge of the Brooks Range** (Center), glimpse of the **North Slope** (R). Photo looks W.

While the view N was unexpected, the view to the S was electrifying! Flanked by many snow-clad peaks, beyond Peak 5050, Mount Kiev (7,775 ft.) soared into the blue.

**Mount Kiev** (R of Center) beyond Peak 5050. Photo looks S.

Wow, stunning, SPHP! Even if we never make it to the top of Peak 4916, this view alone has been worth the trip.

True enough, but the news was good. Immediately to the NE was a tall rock wall that had been a concern visible from below. Although clearly impassable across most of the ridge, the American Dingo could easily get around its lower NW end.

Near the **NW end** (L) of the first rock wall. Photo looks NE.

Another wall, which had been of even greater concern, was beyond the first one, but Lupe found the same situation here. Impassable toward the SE, she could easily go around the NW end, where the wall simply melted into the mountain.

Beyond this second wall, a steep slope of somewhat loose scree led up to a high point at the junction of Peak 4916’s NW and SW ridges. While SPHP wasn’t crazy about it, Lupe clearly enjoyed the scramble.

**Junction of the NW & SW ridges** (L), **second rock wall** (R). Photo looks NE.

Near the top of a **fun scramble**. Photo looks ENE.

The junction of Peak 4916’s NW & SW ridges wasn’t real big, but at least it was flat with room enough to move around a bit. From here, Lupe did have a grand view of Alaska’s North Slope. Far beyond a region of small lakes, Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) and Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.) were both in sight.

**Imnavait Mountain** (Center) & **Slope Mountain** (far R) on the horizon. Photo looks N.

More of the **North Slope** (Center & R). **Peak 4916’s NW ridge** (far L). Photo looks NNW.

Back to the SW, the scene was one of rugged splendor, where the high ridge comprising Three Sisters Summit (7,386 ft.) rose beyond jagged peaks. Naturally, the view of Mount Kiev remained an eye-catcher, too.

**Three Sisters Summit** (L). Photo looks SW.

Zoomed in on **Mount Kiev** (Center). **Peak 5050** (R foreground). Photo looks S.

As magnificent and awe-inspiring as it all was, one view above all others was now of utmost importance. What was the rest of the ridge leading to Peak 4916 like? Was Lupe going to be able to reach the summit?

The double-topped summit region was now in sight, farther E than SPHP expected. A single massive rock formation halfway along the otherwise simple ridge appeared to be the only obstacle. Was it a show-stopper?

**Peak 4916 summit** (L of Center). **Peak 7090** (R) in the distance. Photo looks E.

Only one way to find out, SPHP!

Let’s do it, Sweet Puppy!

After venturing down a dip along the ridgeline, Lupe started up toward the final obstacle ahead, soon reaching a 10 foot high wall of rock cutting diagonally across the ridge.

**Peak 4916 true summit** (Center) beyond the **third rock wall**. Photo looks E.

As expected, too vertical to scramble over it. A quick check of the snowy slope on the N side was scary steep. Most of the S slope was pretty steep, too, but along the R side of the wall of rock, a ramp that wasn’t bad at all extended clear down to the bottom of the wall.

About to head down to the R **along the base of the wall**. **Peak 4916 SW summit** (L of Center). Photo looks ESE.

This way, SPHP!

If the Carolina Dog could make it back to the ridgeline beyond that next corner, SPHP knew she’d be golden.

Yikes! At the corner, a very steep, somewhat loose scree slope greeted Lupe. Sort of scary, but only for 20 feet. Gotta do it! Trivial for any real mountaineer. A shower of scree clattered down as Lupe went first.

Made it! Not at the ridgeline yet, but she was above the worst of it.

Great job, Loopster!

C’mon, SPHP!

Dicey, but even SPHP managed it.

Onward! Puppy, ho!

Approaching the **SW summit** (R of Center). **True summit** (L). Photo looks E.

6:55 PM, 36ºF, Peak 4916 – The final trudge up to the SW summit amid the slanting rays of the early evening sun was a journey of great joy and exhilaration! Upon reaching the top, SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.

Congratulations, Loopster! Can’t be too many Dingoes who have ever been here!

Their huge loss, SPHP! Glad we made it!

The marginally higher true summit was another 125 feet NE, but rocky. Time enough for that in a bit. The gently-rounded SW summit featured some thin tundra Lupe could relax on, so she immediately laid down. SPHP sat beside her. A light N breeze felt cold. Mount Kiev (7,775 ft.) tomorrow? How much more frigid would that be? Suddenly, that notion seemed dangerous.

Chocolate coconut bar time, SPHP. Earned it, didn’t we?

Most certainly, Sweet Puppy. Just a moment.

SPHP produced the expected reward and more. Taste of the Wild and a duck jerky for the American Dingo, sunflower seeds for SPHP. Water for all, of course. When it all vanished, nothing more to do except sit there, surrounded by glory in all directions. So much to see!

**Imnavait Mountain** (L) out on the **North Slope**. **True summit** (R). Photo looks NNE.

**NE extension of Peak 4916’s NW ridge** (Center) with **Itigaknit Mountain (3,293 ft.)** beyond on the far horizon. Photo looks N.

Another look at **Alaska’s North Slope**. **Peak 4916’s NW ridge** (L). Photo looks NW.

**Junction of Peak 4916’s SW & NW ridges** (L), which was along Lupe’s route up. Photo looks WNW.

**Three Sisters Summit** (Center). Photo looks SW.

**Three Sisters Summit** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.

**S end of Galbraith Lake** (L), **Peak 7090** (L of Center), **West Galbraith Peak** (Center), **Peak 4500** (far R) with **Mount Kiev** beyond. **Valley Lupe traveled up** (below). Photo looks SE.

Of course, this wasn’t the first time Lupe had seen these views. Exactly 2 years ago, she’d been on West Galbraith Peak (4,560 ft.) & Peak 5050. Both were incredible vantage points. However, with a sweeping view of Alaska’s North Slope, and all of the new snow on the mountains today, Peak 4916 was even better.

Incredible being back among these splendid, wild peaks on the N side of the Brooks Range again, SPHP!

We’re so lucky, Looper, so, so lucky!

7:24 PM – Late August. The Arctic sun was sinking. Half an hour had flown, and it wasn’t getting any warmer. Lupe stood poised on the SW summit, waiting. SPHP took the shot.

Final moments on **Peak 4916’s SW summit**. Photo looks SW.

Fabulous! Got it, Looper! Thank you!

The Carolina Dog came running. One more thing to do up here. Time to tag the true summit! 125 feet along the easy connecting summit ridge, and Lupe was there.

Tagging **Peak 4916’s true summit**. **Lake Benchmark Mountain** (R) beyond **Galbraith Lake**. Photo looks NE.

After tagging the true summit, Lupe looked tired. She laid down on the snow next to the highest rocks and closed her eyes, trying to absorb a bit of warmth from the weak Arctic sun. SPHP let her be. More than 13.67 years old, and here was Lupe, SPHP’s greatest and ever-faithful friend, still climbing mountains on the N side of the Brooks Range in Alaska.

May it always be so!

Resting on **Peak 4916**. **Lake Benchmark Mountain** (far R). Photo looks NE.

While very similar, the views and focus here were a bit different. Beyond Lupe, Peak 4916’s long NE ridge was now in sight, snaking away toward Galbraith Lake, more of which was visible from this end of the summit ridge. Quite a bit of snow had melted, rendering the mountains in this direction less dramatic than they had been earlier in the day.

As Lupe dozed, SPHP’s gaze was increasingly drawn toward Alaska’s still sunlit North Slope, and especially Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) and Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.), seen on the horizon, both sites of former, fondly remembered, adventures.

**Peak 4916’s NE ridge** (Center). **Galbraith Lake** (R) with **Lake Benchmark Mountain** beyond. Photo looks NE.

**Imnavait Mountain** (L) and **Slope Mountain** (R) out on the **North Slope**. Photo looks NNE.

7:42 PM, Peak 4916 – Another very short nap had once again done the American Dingo some good. SPHP stood at the true summit, looking back at Lupe, who was now bright-eyed and raring to go again, the SW summit, and an unforgettable scene beyond her. Sadly, the inevitable moment had come.

**SW summit** (far L), **NW ridge** (R). **True summit rock** (lower R). Photo looks WNW.

Final moments on **Peak 4916**. **Three Sisters Summit** (L). Photo looks SW.

Onward! Puppy, ho!

Would have been fun to explore the long NE ridge, but an initial drop getting down to it looked daunting. Instead, displaying great energy and enthusiasm again, the Carolina Dog led the way down the SE ridge. Very rocky and steep for a long way, but it worked. Once back down to the valley, Lupe had a blast roaming at will during the rest of the return as she retraced her original route with relatively minor variations.

11:02 PM, 31ºF, Galbraith Lake campground – The sun was long gone, and virtually all light now, too. Tired and hungry, as Lupe and SPHP reached the RAV4 at the end of this long and fabulous day, a sudden, unexpected change occurred. Fog swept in from the N slope. In less than a minute, the dim, dark silhouettes of the mountains vanished entirely.

Back in the nick of time, SPHP!

Going to be a long, cold night, Loopster.

I’m famished! What’s for dinner, SPHP?

Salmon.

That sounded good – another Lupe favorite! Too bad the Ritz crackers to go with it were all gone.

On **Peak 4916**, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-30-24

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track

Dalton Highway Visitor Guide

Slope Mountain & Highlights of the Dalton Highway Revisited, Alaska (8-22-17 & 8-23-17)

Lake Benchmark Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-29-17)

Imnavait Mountain, North Slope, Alaska (8-26-22)

West Galbraith Peak, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-30-22)

Peak 5050, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-30-22)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2024 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, Utah, Wyoming, Montana, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Tuktoyaktuk – Land of the Pingos & The Arctic Ocean, Northwest Territories, Canada (8-14-23 to 8-16-23)

Part 2 of Day 24, Day 25 & Part 1 of Day 26 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-14-23, 3:00 PM – After leaving Inuvik, the Mackenzie River delta was in sight off to the W, but before long the river and Hwy 10 angled away from each other. As the RAV4 cruised along at a comfortable 35 to 40 mph, the mutual potato chip feast went on until Lupe didn’t want any more. SPHP then switched to orange juice and Allsorts licorice.

Outside, the weather was a balmy 50°F, with low clouds hanging across the sky from horizon to horizon. Passing through a region of numerous lakes, Hwy 10 stayed up on the high ground, to the extent that there was any, as much as possible. A thin boreal forest soon vanished completely. Low bushes and tundra covered the land.

Back in 2018, Lupe had seen many people picking berries in this region, but no one was out there today. Instead, the Carolina Dog saw groups of snowmobiles sitting alone on the tundra, their controls wrapped in tarps or plastic, apparently pre-positioned for winter’s eventual arrival.

The entire region from **Inuvik** to **Tuktoyaktuk** is a land of lakes and ponds.

We’re doing great, Loopster! Heard a lot of people complaining about how bad this highway was. So terribly washboardy and rough that some even turned around. Isn’t bad at all in the RAV4, though. Bumpy sections and potholes every now and then, but that’s true of most any gravel road.

How far is it to Tuktoyaktuk from Inuvik, SPHP?

Oh, I’ve seen figures anywhere from 140 to nearly 150 km, Loop. Think I saw a sign as we left Inuvik that said 148. A couple of hours at this rate, and we’ll be there.

As the journey N continued, the lakes visible in all directions tended to get larger and more numerous. Despite a fair amount of truck traffic, and lack of pullouts, SPHP parked briefly by the side of the road every now and then, so Lupe could get out to sniff the air and look around.

One of countless unnamed lakes seen from Hwy 10.

A really big lake eventually appeared off to the E.

Is that the ocean, SPHP?

Technically, probably not, Looper. The maps show a string of big lakes called the Eskimo or Husky Lakes that are all interconnected. It appears they drain NE into Liverpool Bay, which is an arm of the Beaufort Sea. Even if they aren’t part of the ocean, they can’t be much above sea level.

After a while, even the Eskimo Lakes were left behind. SPHP continued to stop briefly near lakes that had particularly interesting shapes.

When small hills began appearing in the distance, Lupe’s journey N was almost over. The American Dingo had reached the land of the pingos.

8-14-23, 5:10 PM – The only pullout along Hwy 10 appeared roughly 10 km from Tuktoyaktuk. Lupe could already see Ibyuk Pingo, the second highest pingo on earth from here. Displays included a map, and a list of services available in Tuktoyaktuk.

The map was interesting. However, overcome by weariness after many long days of Lupe adventures, what SPHP needed most of all was not a map, but a nap.

8-14-23, 7:24 PM – A couple hours of blissful unconsciousness had SPHP feeling much more alert. A mile or 2 past the only Hwy 10 pullout, Lupe was now at the “Welcome to Tuktoyaktuk – Land of the Pingos” sign for the first time in 5 years. Both Ibyuk Pingo and Split Pingo were in sight across Tareoknitok Lagoon.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (L of Center) and **Split Pingo** (far R). Photo looks W.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (Center). Photo looks W.

It’s great being back in the Land of the Pingos, SPHP!

Absolutely, Loop! It’s a world that’s seldom seen. Shall we head into Tuk?

As far N as we can go, SPHP!

Pingo Canadian Landmark was just a bit farther. After another quick look at the pingos from the boat launch, Lupe’s next stop on the way into Tuktoyaktuk was more discouraging. Near the edge of the ocean, within view of the pingos, flocks of seagulls and ravens were busy picking through the unsightly discarded refuse of the human race.

A less than scintillating **introduction to Tuktoyaktuk**.

A worldwide problem with no easy solutions.

**Ravens** and **seagulls** seeking something of value amid the rubble.

Are you humans ever going to do anything about this, SPHP? It’s a really bad introduction to Tuktoyaktuk. Will it be this way forever?

I don’t know, Loopster. The best that can be said about it is that at least we haven’t pitched it all in the ocean yet. Maybe it can still be cleaned up some fine day, but who knows when?

The dump right by the ocean on the way into Tuktoyaktuk was nothing new. It had been here in 2018, too. During the drive through town, the rest of Tuk didn’t initially look much different, either. However, there were some changes. A new visitor center was on the R before entering the village, and the old one at the N end of Beaufort Road overlooking the Arctic Ocean had been removed to make room for more campsites.

The **Arctic Ocean** from the **campground and day use area** at the **N end of Beaufort Road** in **Tuktoyaktuk**. Photo looks WNW.

**Nunaryuam Qaangani Tariuq** had been added since Lupe was here back in 2018. Photo looks WNW.

8-14-23, 8:01 PM, Tuktoyaktuk campground, N end of Beaufort Road – This was it, the end of the line! Parked near the group shelter, the RAV4 was as far N as the road went anywhere in Canada. Back in 2018, the year after Hwy 10 opened, camping or overnight parking here was free. Now it was a cool $63.00 CAN.

Let’s have a look around Loopster!

There were still benches, picnic tables, and campfire barrels overlooking the Arctic Ocean, but SPHP was surprised to see that the large amount of driftwood that had been here in 2018, carried in on the currents, winds, and waves from the Mackenzie River delta, had vanished. Other than a few big, weather-beaten logs, scarcely a stick left!

Our Lady of Lourdes was still parked nearby, forlornly looking out over the Beaufort Sea which she had once plied, long, long ago.

Of course, the Arctic Ocean was the main attraction, in truth, the entire reason Lupe had come so far. Enjoying the view ocean view from the dark rocks and concrete slabs of the seawall was a must!

So awesome just being here, Looper!

Let’s do the walk along the beach, SPHP.

8-14-23, 9:20 PM, Tuktoyaktuk – The best walk along the ocean started farther S. Could have easily walked to the N end from the campground, but instead SPHP drove down to Grandma’s Kitchen, parking the RAV4 near the S end of Lupe’s 2018 traditional stroll along the Arctic Ocean.

No Dingo bans, access restrictions, or required guided tour fees here in Tuktoyaktuk, Canada like there were in Deadhorse, Alaska! At least, not yet. Lupe took full advantage. The entire walk along the beach was 0.8 mile one way. What a fabulous, rare treat!

**Lupe** enjoying her **traditional stroll** along the **Arctic Ocean**. Photo looks N.

No rush. Lupe sniffed here and there at will as little waves rippled ashore. Meanwhile, SPHP ambled along gathering a plastic grocery sack’s worth of trash, easily filling it long before the N end of the stroll was reached where the dark rocks of the seawall began. Once there, it was time to turn around and enjoy the incredible experience all over again on the way back to Grandma’s kitchen.

On the **dark rocks of the seawall** near the N end of the stroll. Photo looks NNW.

Heading back to Grandma’s Kitchen. Photo looks SSE.

8-14-23, 10:00 PM, Tuktoyaktuk – Back at the campground, SPHP parked the RAV4 by some of the picnic tables.

Back at the **N end of Beaufort Road**. Photo looks NNW.

C’mon, Loopster! Let’s hang around here for a while. Tide’s out! We can take the short walk out onto the spit where the locals like to fish.

**Map of Tuktoyaktuk** posted near the spit.

Near the end of the spit, a girl named Lydia was very happy. She had just caught the first fish that she’d ever caught in her life. She very kindly permitted an American Dingo to inspect her prize.

**Lupe** inspects **Lydia’s fresh catch**.

Sniffs strongly of the sea, SPHP.

I’d be surprised, if it didn’t, Looper. I’m sort of jealous. Bigger than any fish I’ve ever caught.

8-15-23, 12:02 AM – Back in 2018, Lupe had spent a cold evening under her little brown blanket in the RAV4 while SPHP burned driftwood in one of the campground fire barrels. What an incredible experience that had been, huddling by the fire in the twilight while watching the wood burn and staring out at the surf rolling in from the Arctic Ocean.

Sadly, no driftwood around to burn now. Even so, the Carolina Dog hung around the campground until well past midnight. Mid-August, but still light out. Awesome!

**Midnight** at the **Arctic Ocean**. Photo looks NNW.

8-15-23, 7:19 AM, 49ºF – A whole day to spend in Tuktoyaktuk! It began with a drive out to the Pingo Canadian Landmark. With the help of the telephoto lens, SPHP got a couple close ups of Ibyuk Pingo (161 ft.) and Split Pingo from across the lagoon.

I was hoping for a sunnier day, Looper. The pingos look a bit drab with all these clouds around.

Nothing to be done about that, SPHP. Let’s head back into Tuk. Time for my now traditional Tuktoyaktuk tour!

Returning to Hwy 10, a huge bird was sitting on top of a very tall post. To SPHP’s surprise, it didn’t fly off at the American Dingo’s approach.

Loopster! Come back! That bird means business!

What kind of bird is it, SPHP?

A hawk, or maybe an eagle? I don’t know, Loop. Might even be an osprey. Some kind of a raptor, that’s for sure. One that eats fish, and …

And Dingoes, SPHP?

Like I said, come back! We don’t want to find out.

Lupe’s tour of Tuktoyaktuk began with a look at some of the buildings seen along Hwy 10 on the way into town.

Some of the **first buildings** on the way into **Tuktoyaktuk**.

Lupe had seen these same **rusty pale blue tanks** in 2018, too. Apparently the Tuk paint shortage still hadn’t been alleviated yet in 2023.

Approaching **Tuk** from the SE. **Paniksak Pingo (36 ft.)** (Center). Photo looks NW.

After driving through the center of town back to the campground at the N end of Beaufort Road, SPHP parked the RAV4. Lupe’s walking tour of Tuktoyaktuk began at the Trans Canada Trail monument marking the trail’s N terminus.

Before heading S, a quick look at the facilities at the end of the road was in order. Wandering past the restrooms and group shelter, Lupe visited the kmpost marker and an old sled, both near the start of the fishing spit where Lydia caught her big fish last night.

**End of the road** in **Tuk**. **Restrooms** (Center in dark blue) next to the **group shelter**.

An **old sled** at the start of the **spit**.

The **fishing spit** from the **kmpost**. At high tide, most of the spit is submerged.

Satisfied without going clear out to the end of the spit, since the tide was coming in, the Carolina Dog now headed S along Beaufort Road, passing the campground sites overlooking the Arctic Ocean and Our Lady of Lourdes again.

A L turn onto Centennial Road led to a couple of sod houses.

Can you image facing a long Arctic winter in that, Looper? Grim!

Not as grim as not having a sod house, SPHP. I’ll take wintering in our house in the Black Hills over it any day, though.

Continuing to wander the side streets of Tuktoyaktuk, near the end of Liusa Road, Lupe took a shortcut over a hill that may have been a small pingo. Up here, she made a new friend. A local dog with a sore L rear paw decided to join the tour.

Lupe with her new friend. Photo looks ESE.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (L) and **Split Pingo** (Center). **Arctic Ocean** (R). Photo looks SSW.

As Lupe and her new friend continued to explore the side streets of Tuk, everywhere they went, they triggered a chorus of protest from dogs that wanted to join the tour, but were tied up or otherwise confined.

It was getting to be a bit ridiculous. The American Dingo and her friend soon had all of Tuktoyaktuk howling in dismay. SPHP wasn’t entirely disappointed when this new friend finally decided it might be time to go back home, wherever that was, and Lupe reached the beach again near Grandma’s Kitchen.

**Homes** on **Ocean View Road** close to **Grandma’s Kitchen**.

Thankfully, back to the serenity of the **beach**. Photo looks WSW.

As usual, the stroll along the tranquil, silvery sea was soothing, a treat for body and soul. This time, once Lupe got to the N end of the beach, she turned E to Beaufort Road before heading N past the cemetery.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (L), **Split Pingo** (Center). Photo looks SSW.

By the **Beaufort Sea**. Photo looks NW.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (Center), **Split Pingo** (R). Photo looks S.

Passing the **cemetery**. Photo looks NW.

8-15-23, 2:40 PM, 55ºF – The campground and day use area were almost empty when Lupe got back to the RAV4, which was parked at the highest spot facing the ocean. Watching the waves roll in while sharing sardines and Ritz crackers, the mood eventually turned more festive when a tour bus arrived.

Moving to a picnic table, SPHP munched on trail mix and chatted with other tourists. Lupe spent her time searching in vain for a marmot that knew the ins and outs of the passages between the rocks of the seawall.

Up on one of the seawall’s concrete slabs.

8-15-23, 5:00 PM – SPHP woke from a pleasant hour long nap.

Campground’s filling up, SPHP.

Yeah, I see that, Loop. Guess we better move or pay for a spot before they kick us out.

Driving S out of Tuktoyaktuk to the new visitor center, SPHP came out with 2 certificates for Lupe.

**Lupe’s Certificate for traveling Highway 10, the Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk highway.**

**Lupe’s Certificate for dipping her paw in the Arctic Ocean at Tuktoyaktuk.**

8-15-23, 5:45 PM – SPHP parked the RAV4 at the empty ballfield.

Another stroll along the beach, Loop? Plenty of time for it.

How often are we in Tuktoyaktuk, SPHP? We better enjoy it to the utmost while we can.

Cutting over to the seawall rocks near the N end of the beach, the trek S to Grandma’s Kitchen began anew.

I don’t know how you do it, Loopster. Way too rocky for me to go barepaw here, but do you mind if I find a spot along these rocks where I can take my boots and socks off and stand in the Arctic Ocean for a few minutes?

Have at it, SPHP. You need to toughen those paws up.

Lupe along the seawall rocks. Taken while SPHP was standing a foot deep in the Arctic Ocean! Photo looks NNE.

I’ve been picking up a new rock for your rock collection every time we take this stroll, Looper. Let me know if you see one you like as we go along.

Good thinking, SPHP! Mind showing what you’ve got for me so far?

The pebbles SPHP selected during the 2 prior strolls along the beach.

Two local girls made a couple of passes up and down the beach on an ATV. Other than that, the beach was deserted. The air was calm. Even the ocean barely had a ripple. Soft rays of light descended on the silver sea from weaknesses in the clouds. All too soon on this magical evening, Grandma’s Kitchen was in sight, and it was time to turn back again.

**Grandma’s Kitchen** is the **blue-gray building** at Center with the **white addition**. Photo looks E.

Halfway back to the N end of the beach, it was decision time.

OK, Loop. I’ve got 5 candidates for your rock collection. We’ve only done our beach stroll 3 times, so you can pick the 3 rocks you want to keep, and we’ll leave the others.

4 of the choices. New ones on the L, old ones on the R.

Do I have to keep the first 2 that you already showed me, SPHP?

Nope. Select the 3 you like best, Loopster.

They’re all unique and different from each other, SPHP.

That’s on purpose, Looper, so it’s a real choice. Made up your mind yet?

Yes.

And?

Let’s keep them all, SPHP. It’s a nice set, an Arctic Ocean sampler!

Well, why not? The price was right, and they were all just pebbles. Not like they were going to take up a lot of space, or weigh much.

The rest of the evening was spent up at the campground. SPHP chatted with the other tourists. Lupe had 2 dogs to play with, Beans and Mason, but they were both gigantic. Instead, the Carolina Dog preferred her pink blanket in the RAV4, growling whenever Beans or Mason got too close during their 3 hour frolic and wrestling match.

8-16-23, 8:15 AM, 46ºF – Foggy and a bit breezy, as Lupe set out from the baseball diamond to head over to the beach. This would be her last stroll along the Arctic Ocean to Grandma’s Kitchen. The tide was out, and on the way back, change was in the air. The fog dissipated, and it even seemed like the clouds were starting to break up.

Blue sky, SPHP!

Wow, you’re right, Loop! Is it possible we’ll get to see the sun before we leave Tuk?

Heading back N during the **final stroll** along the **Arctic Ocean**. Photo looks NNE.

Instead of returning to the RAV4 at the ball park when her final stroll along the Arctic Ocean was done, Lupe trotted N on Beaufort Road. Sure enough, the sun was shining by the time she passed the cemetery.

Upon reaching the campground, Lupe went all the way to the end of the fishing spit. The clouds were gone! For the first time since arriving in Tuktoyaktuk, the American Dingo stood in bright sunshine. Instead of silver, the sea was blue.

After standing there a few minutes on this beautiful morning, admiring the sea and sky and village of Tuktoyaktuk, SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.

Congratulations, Loopster, on making it back to Tuk and the Arctic Ocean!

Thank you, SPHP! It’s been fun. Are we really going back S today?

We’re at the end of the road N, Loop, and it’s time.

Leaving the spit, Lupe went back to the massive concrete slabs of the sea wall for a last look at the open sea. Heading S didn’t seem right.

Back on the concrete slabs of the seawall. Photo looks SW.

The **Arctic Ocean** in blue. Photo looks NE

A morning like this is made for great deeds, SPHP! We ought to be setting out for Baffin Island to see Mount Thor!

SPHP smiled.

We think alike, Sweet Puppy! If only, but your next great deeds are S. Fear not! We’ll have a fantastic time. Promise!

Passing the campground, SPHP bid farewell to some of the other tourists met over the past couple of days, who were just beginning to stir before heading S themselves. Lupe then proceeded S on Beaufort Road to the RAV4 still waiting at the baseball diamond.

8-16-23, 10:04 AM, 51ºF – Instead of driving S, SPHP turned the RAV4 N.

One more look from the Arctic Ocean sign? What do you say, Loopster?

The Carolina Dog’s answer was a foregone conclusion.

To the **Arctic Ocean** at **Tuktoyaktuk**! What a grand adventure it had been!

Next to the Arctic Ocean sign, Lupe and the RAV4 were both pointed S. SPHP took the shot.

Great pose, Looper! Thank you. It’s time. Onward! Puppy, ho!

8-16-23, 10:15 AM – RAV4 purring smoothly, Lupe left Tuktoyaktuk. Not done here quite yet, though. 5 miles out of town, a last stop was ahead.

8-16-23, 10:27 AM – Across Tareoknitok Lagoon, illuminated by sunshine, both Ibyuk Pingo (161 ft.), second tallest in the world, and Split Pingo were seen more clearly than before.