Part 2 of Day 25 & Day 26 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
8-16-23, 10:40 AM, 52ºF – It did seem a shame to leave the Land of the Pingos and the Arctic Ocean on the first sunny morning since Lupe had arrived, but her time in Tuktoyaktuk was over. Hwy 10 was dusty and bumpy as the RAV4 rolled S through low hills and a multitude of lakes on the way back to Inuvik. On her pink blanket, Lupe was bright-eyed and alert, watching the world go by.
Will we be driving all day, SPHP?
Yeah, most of it, Loopster. We’ll make a couple of quick stops for fuel and supplies in Inuvik. Among other things, I’m going to buy out the rest of their Allsorts licorice stock at North Mart! I like it! Then we have 2 more long drives to the ferries at the Mackenzie and Peel rivers. Should be back in the Richardson Mountains by this evening. If the weather’s decent, I’m hoping we can climb Peak 1402M tomorrow.
We’ll pass the Tithegeh Chii Vitaii trail again S of Inuvik, SPHP. Can we at least stop there for a while? Last chance to see Campbell Lake, and I love doing that loop up to the ridge overlooking it.
Oh, I don’t want to miss out on that, either, Looper. It will be a nice break. Besides, we’ve never seen Campbell Lake on a sunny day before.
8-16-23, 3:12 PM, 55ºF – So far the day had gone according to plan. Doing the loop trail counter-clockwise this time, the American Dingo was back on the bluff near the Tithegeh Chii Vitaii Loop High Point (385 ft.) with the best view of Campbell Lake. Fun being here again! Unfortunately, the Carolina Dog still hadn’t seen the big lake on a sunny day. Before reaching Inuvik, the sky had clouded over.
Once back at the RAV4, the dusty drive S resumed, minus any further stops of consequence. Lupe mostly snoozed, but every now and then briefly peered out at the dull, flat road. The Carolina Dog reached the Mackenzie River just in time for SPHP to drive right aboard the free ferry moments before it took off. After crossing the big river, the Dempster Highway entered a somewhat more interesting region of lakes and a few low hills among the boreal forest.
8-16-23, 6:53 PM, 56ºF – After a second ferry crossing at the Peel River, an increasingly scenic drive SW to the Richardson Mountains began.
Beautiful, unspoiled territory as far as the eye could see, but as the RAV4 approached the Richardson Mountains, the darkly overcast sky was not at all encouraging. Without a major change for the better, prospects seemed equally dim for a decent shot at Peak 1402M.
Not looking very good, SPHP. You never know, though! Might be sunny tomorrow.
True enough, but I wouldn’t bet on it, Loop. We’ll see if we can find a spot to hang out for the night, though, up at the first pass. May as well be in position to take advantage, if we do get lucky.
8-16-23, 7:55 PM, 52ºF – Driving slowly as the RAV4 approached the Pass 770M region, what SPHP had been looking for materialized on the L (S). A wide dirt road led off to what appeared to be a highway maintenance yard where stacks of pipe, presumably for use as culverts, were visible.
A simple pullout would be better, Loop, but this ought to serve our purpose for the time being. You hungry? Getting to be about that time.
Only the lower slopes of the mountains were in view, the mountaintops all draped in soft gray obscurity, as SPHP shared a tasty feast of piping hot chicken and dumplings with the Carolina Dog. Suddenly, Lupe quit eating. Staring W across the tundra, her hackles rose up.
Glancing over that way, SPHP saw them, too. A large grizzly was leading two cubs along the base of a mountain. A moment later, they were lost in the veil of a fog that swept in from the E, hiding them from view.
8-17-23, 8:33 AM, Pass 770M – Fog repeatedly formed down in the valley to the W, then came sweeping up this way, but always dissipated before getting this far. Overhead, small patches of blue provided reason for hope amid a mostly cloudy sky.
A narrow road Lupe had ventured over to during yesterday evening’s fog, was now in view on the opposite side of the Dempster Highway. High above this road, the microwave tower it went to was also in sight.
I don’t know, Looper. A better situation than I expected, but too much of a long shot unless there’s further improvement. I’ll get the pack ready just in case, then work on the trip journal while we wait to see what develops.
8-17-23, 10:36 AM, MDT, 48ºF, Pass 770M – Sniffing the cool, fresh air, Lupe stood on the road to the highway maintenance yard. Sadly, every last bit of blue sky had vanished long ago.
How much longer are we going to wait, SPHP? Can we at least take a walk?
Sure, Loop. Pack’s ready, but I really hesitate to set out for Peak 1402M in this. No point in it. Way too easy for the mountains to just get all socked in with fog again.
Within minutes of setting out on a short walk, the first raindrops began to fall. Soon a steady rain set in.
Back to the RAV4, Loopster! Hate to say it, but this isn’t going to work. No sense in hanging around any longer.
8-17-23, 10:38 AM, PDT, 47ºF, Wright Pass – During the drive here, Lupe had enjoyed seeing the Northwest Territories again as she had first found them back in 2018 – a land of great beauty and mystery, the sky full of big clouds with fog clinging to all the mountaintops, with a mix of both mist and sunshine moving over the lowlands below. No such mix here on the border with the Yukon. Wright Pass was socked in with dense fog.
Seems we’ve made the right decision in pressing on, Loop.
We had a lot of fun in the Northwest Territories on this Dingo Vacation, SPHP. Sad to be leaving, but I’m glad we came.
Next stop, the Arctic Circle, Looper, and beyond that, Eagle Plains.
Heading S into the Yukon from Wright Pass, the RAV4 was soon below the fog shrouding the mountains. For a while, SPHP drove through light rain showers. Within half an hour, though, the rain was over. Starting to seem like just an ordinary cloudy day.
As the drive continued, shafts of sunlight could be seen illuminating the tundra here and there over a wide area W of the Richardson Mountains.
You know, Loop, I’m beginning to think that nothing’s going to happen here. Maybe these clouds are going to start breaking up?
Are you thinking what I’m thinking, SPHP?
We’ll soon be coming to the turn for a peak we’ve wanting to visit for years, Loopster. Might have to abort, if I’m wrong about the weather, but this is our absolute last chance to climb a mountain in the Richardson Range on this Dingo Vacation.
Mount Hare (4,052 ft.), SPHP?
Yeah, Mount Hare.
Let’s go for it, SPHP!
8-17-23, 12:14 PM, 56ºF – The L turn off the Dempster Highway toward the Richardson Mountains that SPHP had been looking for appeared roughly 10 km S of Vadziah Kan Creek. A narrow side road went 0.6 km E to a gravel yard situated at the base of the mountains. Still mighty cloudy, but it hadn’t rained for a while, and whether prudent, or not, Lupe and SPHP were both eager to give Mount Hare a shot.
The pack was already prepared, so after a quick look at the very roomy gravel yard, it was time.
Onward! Puppy, ho!
Which way, SPHP?
SE, Loop! You probably can’t see it due to all these tall bushes, but there’s a hill not too far beyond them over that way that’s likely our best bet for getting to some firm ground without much vegetation fast.
Easily finding a route through the bushes, Lupe quickly emerged in a small valley. This drainage was a little tussocky and overgrown, but the hill of light gray scree that SPHP had been referring to was just ahead.
An easy traipse up the scree, which really was a nice, firm surface, to the top of this first hill didn’t take long. Looking ENE, a dip led to a slightly higher similar hill that wasn’t far away at all. Glancing back at the RAV4 down at the gravel yard, it was surprising how much elevation the American Dingo had already gained.
Heading for the next scree hill was the obvious choice. Once there, a fairly deep valley was ahead. Looking NNE, a relatively minor dip led to a beautiful slope and a high point promising access to a much higher ridge to the NE.
That’s the way we want to go, SPHP. Follow me!
The trudge up to HP840M was fairly steep, especially near the end. On the way, Lupe ran into low bushes, and even an easily avoided stand of stunted trees. HP840M proved to be a very scenic, somewhat dramatic point. A 20 foot high escarpment of sharply slanting rock, consisting of many thin layers, featured a line of small cliffs facing E.
Lupe went clear to the top of the HP840M ridge, which was only a few feet wide, and quite flat for 50 feet along its length. Tufts of tundra grew up here, which provided a comfy spot to take a short break. Views of the foothills of the Richardson Mountains, and the Dempster Highway off to the W, were already terrific.
Wow! If we did nothing else, this view alone is worth the effort, Looper.
It’s tremendous, SPHP, but you’re not pooping out on me now. We’re going all the way to Mount Hare!
After 15 awesome minutes on HP840M, SPHP was ready to continue. On an easy and interesting slope where foot high lines of the thin-layered rock broke the surface standing almost perfectly on end, Lupe headed N toward HP860M. However, the Carolina Dog didn’t have to go clear to the top. Getting fairly close to it, she then made a traverse NE, taking a shortcut to a saddle she was going to have to descend to, anyway. Beyond that saddle was the next big climb to HP990M.
After losing 45 meters of elevation while gradually angling down a steep scree slope to the broad, rounded saddle E of HP860M, Lupe crossed the saddle and started up again. No obstacles at all, other than the steepness of the slope. The low tundra was gorgeous! Lupe soon came to a large patch of alpine bearberries that was turning red. Reaching the top of the rise above it, a short flat stretch led to a much steeper climb ahead.
This next climb ultimately led to a second level stretch. Beyond it was the final steep climb to the top of HP990M. Staying toward the S, in an attempt to avoid the steepest terrain, Lupe still had some distance to go when it began to rain hard enough to make SPHP to stop and put on the red rain jacket.
Dang! We’ll try to wait it out here, Loop, but maybe this is it?
And we were doing so well, too, SPHP!
I know, but I don’t dare go any farther if the weather’s turning against us, Loopster. Remember our prior trips to the Richardson Mountains?
Monsoons and blizzards, SPHP! Even in August.
Sitting huddled together in the rain, a deep valley was directly S. Across it, Peak 950M stood out as a sharp high point along the opposite ridge. It didn’t look all that much higher than where Lupe was now.
10 minutes. That’s all the longer the issue was in doubt. Happily, the rain quit. Just a shower! Lupe went on. A very steep climb N soon got easier. Turning NE, HP990M was directly ahead.
8-17-23, 1:51 PM, HP990M – Her front paws on a damp, dark stone, the American Dingo stood near the sharp edge of a grassy summit. Beyond her, HP1070M, the next major objective along a long ridge was in view. In the distance, a higher ridge was partially hidden among the clouds.
Always something, Loopster.
What’s wrong, SPHP?
Mount Hare. See that distant ridge? That’s got to be it, Looper. Summit is in the clouds.
It quit raining. Maybe the sky will clear by the time we get there, SPHP?
Oh, I hope so! I really do, Loop.
No thought of turning back at all. As long as it didn’t start raining again or threaten to get completely fogged in, the Carolina Dog was going for it. Lupe wasn’t going to get a jillion chances at a peak 3,000 miles from home, or whatever it was, and the weather right now was easily the best it had ever been on the rare occasions when she’d been in this area.
One problem. While the enormous ridge ahead was clearly super easy terrain, the E side of HP990M was way steeper than the topo map would have one believe. Not all of it. The worst part was a bare, gritty scree slope maybe 40 feet in height. Descending to that lip, SPHP pondered the best route. Meanwhile, Lupe was already at the bottom looking back up.
C’mon, SPHP! Nothing to it!
Maybe with 4 on the floor, Sweet Puppy, but I’d rather not take a tumble.
Coming up this slope with poles wouldn’t even be an issue. Descending was different. Virtually nothing to cling to, and the poles weren’t long enough to help. SPHP finally chose a spot, sat down, and slid slowly, gripping whatever little bits of bedrock protruded at all.
Good job, SPHP! Classic little girl technique!
Hey, it worked, and who will ever know, unless a certain Dingo blabs it all over the internet? Onward! Puppy, ho!
Once safely down to the giant, rounded ridge, the views were incredible, and the mood was one of elation. Progress couldn’t have been easier or faster as Lupe headed for HP1070M.
Reaching the short section of ridgeline N of HP1070M brought a much more sobering view of what was ahead. No insurmountable obstacles. Far from it! No real obstacles at all, but the cloud ceiling was dropping. Significantly less of Mount Hare was in sight.
Dingo feathers! It’s going the wrong way on us, Loopster.
Nothing to be done about it. If the ceiling kept dropping, Mount Hare was still far enough so that the only sensible thing would be to turn back. For now, though, perseverance remained the order of the day. Lupe turned S, heading for HP1070M.
8-17-23, 2:48 PM, HP1070M – A cairn was up here. Kind of unexpected. Not much change in the overall situation. At least, it wasn’t any worse.
Can we take a break, SPHP?
I suppose, Loop. Guess there’s no real rush in heading up into the fog.
After sharing beef jerky and water with Lupe, SPHP munched on trail mix and honey-roasted peanuts. A breeze was out of the W, and looking back that way, the sky was lighter. Far off, a few spots of sunlit terrain remained visible among the lowlands. Perhaps a reason for hope?
Looking N, the summit of Peak 1110M not too far to the NNE remained in view, but some other peaks of similar height farther N were scraping the clouds.
I think it’s getting better over by Mount Hare, SPHP. I can see a little more of the ridge going to it than I could a few minutes ago.
Huh. I believe you’re right, Loopster. Let’s keep going!
From HP1070, a gradual loss of 80 meters of elevation led to a saddle along the ridge leading to Mount Hare. The American Dingo had only begun this descent when the improvement in the cloud ceiling started becoming more noticeable. Well before she got down to the saddle, the situation improved dramatically.
Luck of the Dingo! Suddenly appears we’ve got a decent chance of arriving at the top of Mount Hare when it’s cloud-free, Loop.
Onward, SPHP!
HP1070M had only been about halfway to Mount Hare, but the romp down to the saddle was fast and super easy. Even SPHP was making great progress. Once down at the saddle, a long uphill march on a much narrower ridge was ahead. Nothing at all scary about it. No cliffs, big rock formations, or anything like that, and the ridge was always wide enough to keep trudging higher without having to give even a moment’s thought about the terrain.
Two high points were visible ahead, one right at the upper end of the ridge Lupe was climbing, the other one not too far from it, more to the S or SE. For a long way, the high point at the end of the ridge appeared to be the true summit. However, according to the topo map, that was only HP1210M. The high point toward the R was actually the true summit.
As the American Dingo headed up the ridge, progress was only limited by SPHP’s heart, leg, and lung capacity, and resulting frequent pauses to gasp for air. During these breathers, the views were most encouraging, especially toward the N where patches of sunshine were now moving across the mountains.
As Lupe reached HP1210M, the news on the cloud front was excellent. Mount Hare’s nearby summit was now completely cloud-free, the ceiling 200 feet above it. However, while the air had previously been calm or limited to a light breeze before, at this elevation, the W wind was much more powerful. The American Dingo arrived at a small cairn of dark rock in a chilly 30 mph gale.
The views of the Richardson Mountains were amazing! It hardly seemed real or possible that Lupe was actually here. Yet only 0.33 km SSE along a gentle tundra-covered ridge, a long dreamed of success beckoned.
Shall we, Loopster?
We shall, SPHP.
Then onward! Puppy, ho!
Despite the wild west wind, a brief, ecstatic journey of joy ensued.
8-17-24, 4:09 PM, Mount Hare (4,052 ft.) – At a small collection of loose gray rocks that may have once been a cairn, Lupe stood bracing herself against a gale from out of the W on the high point of a gently rounded, tundra-covered hill that was slightly elongated N/S. Not far above her, big clouds with dark gray bottoms raced E across the sky. An actual small cairn at equal elevation was another 30 feet S.
SPHP shook Lupe’s outstretched paw.
Oh, my gosh! It’s a dream come true, Loop! Mount Hare! We’re here! Can you you believe it? Congratulations, Sweet Puppy!
This brutal wind does tend to make it seem pretty real, SPHP. Only one thing lacking. If only a chocolate coconut bar would somehow magically materialize, that would be proof positive that this isn’t just a dream!
I’ll take care of that right now. C’mon, Looper. Let’s get out of this wind. It’s cold!
Retreating 10 feet down the slope immediately E of the summit, SPHP sat down in a slight depression. Still mighty breezy, but better than being exposed to the wind’s full force. After sharing the reality confirming chocolate coconut bar, Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap, and SPHP threw a jacket over her.
Mount Hare was clearly the highest peak in this part of the Richardson Mountains. Facing E, away from the wind, sunlight frequently played across a region of lower highlands devoid of any sharp summits. Many peaks were visible to the S where the sky was darker and even cloudier, but none higher than Mount Hare were that way.
The grandest views were to the N where countless peaks stretched away along the spine of the Richardson Mountains, connected by a maze of ridges separated by deep valleys. When in shadow, exposed rocks made the mountains look black. In sunlight, they were silver.
Two mountains higher than Mount Hare were on the far horizon, one due N, and the other NNE.
Wonder if either one of them is Mount Sittichinli, SPHP?
I was speculating about that, too, Loop. Maybe, but I rather doubt we can see Mount Sittichinli (5,165 ft.) from here. It’s a long way off. I really don’t know what peaks they are. North Wright Pass Mountain might make more sense. It’s closer.
For a while, the sky tended to clear. Patches of blue sailed by, sunlight brightening the land below. SPHP shared water and beef jerky with the Carolina Dog, then munched on honey nut peanuts and trail mix. The relentless wind discouraged any movement from this at least somewhat protected spot. At one point, nearly half of the sky turned blue!
After sitting there enjoying the splendid remote panoramas for half an hour, the inevitable moment arrived.
Loopster, we’ve got to move!
Picture time, SPHP?
It better be. My R leg is numb. You’ve got to get off my lap!
Unfortunately, the W wind hadn’t abated. Nevertheless, Lupe returned to the summit to survey the views in that direction, which hadn’t been in sight during the rest break. Beyond the Richardson Mountains, a vast territory of long ridges and lowlands stretched away to an indefinite horizon. Toward the SW, part of the Dempster Highway was in sight.
As Lupe’s traditional summit hour drew to a close, for the first time, Mount Hare basked in sunshine for more than just occasional fleeting moments. The day brightened along with the landscapes and the mood.
What a day, SPHP! It’s like the Richardson Mountains are wishing us well, knowing that we’ll be gone tomorrow.
This Dingo Vacation has been by far your best ever in this region, Loop. You did a lot! Before this trip, the weather had always been ghastly. Was starting to think that we’d never get to see the world from any peak in the Richardson Mountains, but we got to almost every one on your list of possibilities.
All true, and Mount Hare (4,052 ft.) had been the icing on the cake. Back in the fog at Wright Pass this morning, all hope had been lost for this moment on this Dingo Vacation, yet now, only hours later, Lupe was here. What a glorious experience it had been!
While bathed in sunlight at the true summit, SPHP shook the Carolina Dog’s paw once more.
Congratulations on your perseverance and grand success, Loopster! Stay here! I want to get one last photo of you up here in the sunshine before we head down.
Going only a little way down the NNE slope toward HP1210M, SPHP turned around. It wasn’t to be. At that very moment a shadow passed over the mountain. SPHP laughed, and took the shot, anyway.
C’mon, Loopster! That’s life. Can’t have everything. Onward! Puppy, ho!
The American Dingo came running.
Why not, SPHP? We do have everything, don’t we?
Guess you’re right, Looper. Everything we need, or as close to it as anyone ever comes.
8-17-23, 5:15 PM – Eh, could have waited a few minutes to take that shot. In the short time it took to get to HP1210M again, the light was back. Oh, well! This was almost as good.
Maybe even better, SPHP!
Most of the return was windier than the ascent had been, but such a happy time. Retracing her earlier route winding along the big ridges, Lupe roamed at will having an absolute blast, while SPHP enjoyed the splendid isolation, admiring the untouched wilderness in all directions.
8-17-23, 6:18 PM, HP1070M – While still at close to the same elevation of most surrounding peaks, SPHP called a halt.
Take a break, Loop. Just want to spend a few minutes appreciating where we are before we go on.
And catch your breath, SPHP.
Yeah, that too.
Such a beautiful evening it turned out to be! Innumerable peaks along the spine of the Richardson Mountains marched away to the N. Back to the E, Mount Hare was lit up against a blue and white sky.
We were there once, Looper, not so long ago.
Mount Hare was fabulous, SPHP, but are we reminiscing already? It’s only been an hour!
Yeah, but why not, Loop? If only for a moment while it’s still so fresh, real, and in view, the way we’ll always want to remember Mount Hare.
Lupe looked carefully one last time, then sitting by the cairn, she closed her eyes as if meditating, committing it all to memory, every moment of hope and despair on the way to Mount Hare, and the wind-blown joy of actually being there. (End 7:50 PM)
Links:
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track & Ascent Statistics
The Dempster Highway Travelogue
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