Conejos Peak, San Juan Mountains, Colorado (6-15-23)

Days 8 & 9 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico!

6-14-23, 2:02 PM, Conejos River valley – Two signs.  One said Conejos Lake Fork Ranch, the other was the one SPHP had been looking for.

Here we go, Loopster!  USFS Road No. 105.  Want out for a quick sniff?

Of course, she did.  Leaping out of the RAV4, Lupe was excited.  Beneath a deep blue sky, countless bright yellow dandelions flourished along the shoulders of No. 105.  The mountain air was pleasantly warm, the valley green and alive in mid-June.  Looking SW from the junction, a very high snow-capped ridge was in sight.

At the start of USFS Road No. 105 off Country Road No. 250. Photo looks NW.
Peak 12555 (Center). Photo looks SW.

Love it already, SPHP!  This is Dingo territory, pure and simple.

Terrific!  Figured it would be, Loop.  Ready to keep going?

During the drive up the Conejos River valley along County Road No. 250, the river had been full bank to bank.  In fact, there’d been warning signs about flooding way back at Antonito.  Fortunately, the USFS Road No. 105 bridge over the river was intact.  After crossing it, a 5.5 mile drive up to the Rincon trailhead commenced.

Lupe’s buddy, Dennis Stewart, had once written a trip report saying that USFS Road No. 105 was a bad road.  Driving a Ford Focus, he’d actually thought it prudent to park 0.5 mile before getting to the trailhead.

Dennis was right!  Nothing had changed since he’d been here.  No. 105 started out as a narrow, but fine road.  However, as it wound higher way up on the steep-sided Saddle Creek valley, the road rapidly deteriorated.  By the time a junction with USFS Road No. 100 appeared 3 miles in, SPHP had the RAV4 barely crawling along.

6-14-23, 2:51 PM, Rincon trailhead – Whew!  Near a hairpin turn along No. 105, the RAV4 sat alone, gleaming in the sun at a roomy, flat parking area that in a pinch might accommodate a dozen vehicles.

Rincon trailhead at a hairpin turn along USFS Road No. 105. Photo looks WSW.

Nicely done, SPHP!  Took a while to get here, but at least you didn’t tear out the bottom of the RAV4, or send us careening over any precipices.

Thank heavens we didn’t meet any oncoming traffic, Loop!  Bad enough as it was.  There’s actually a trailhead for Tobacco Lake Trail No. 719 another mile farther somewhere off along spur No. 105.3A, but this is as far as I’m driving on these roads.

In the evening, Lupe made an exploratory trek up to the Tobacco Lake trailhead, finding only an empty metal box atop a metal pole there, and on the way to it, a view of enormous, mostly snowy, rounded hills.

On USFS Road No. 105.3A during an exploratory jaunt to the Tobacco Lake trailhead. Photo looks SW.

Are any of those mountains Conejos Peak (13,172 ft.), SPHP?

I don’t know, Loop.  The highest one would be it, if any of them are.

This reconnaisance did yield some useful information.  First, this was not rugged territory.  Second, even so, getting to Conejos Peak might be harder than anticipated.  Long stretches of USFS Road No. 105.3A were soft and mucky, or even under water, and so were the open fields along it.  Furthermore, the forest was full of snow drifts 3 or 4 feet deep.

Colorado reportedly had a snowpack 70% above normal last winter.  Maybe Lupe had arrived too early in the season?

6-15-23, 7:57 AM, Rincon trailhead – Directly across USFS Road No. 105, Lupe stood waiting next to an old wooden post protruding from a cairn.  Beyond the Carolina Dog, a trail covered with deadfall even right at the start disappeared into the forest.  720, the number for the Roaring Gulch Trail, was carved into the top of the post, despite SPHP’s maps showing this as Rincon Trail No. 722.

At the start of Rincon Trail No. 722, despite the post’s 720. Photo looks W.

Conejos Peak, or bust!  Let’s hit it, Loopster.  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Immediately beyond the initial deadfall, a couple of small snowbanks were on the trail.  Easily passed, the trail was dry for a little way after that, except for numerous small streams, several of which had old wooden bridges over them.

A bit of snow near the start. Photo looks W.
A convenient, but scarcely needed bridge over a tiny stream.

Situated on the N side of the Saddle Creek valley, Rincon Trail No. 722 headed WSW.  As Lupe gained elevation, she soon started coming to more and bigger snowbanks across the trail, and larger deadfall, too.  Before long, progress slowed greatly.  The American Dingo was spending just as much time wandering through the forest searching for the trail amid all the snow, deadfall, and mushy, wet ground in between, as on it.

Fortunately, the snow generally held even SPHP’s weight.  Lupe had no problem trotting right along the top of snow ridges.  Meanwhile, Saddle Creek could be heard roaring somewhere down in the forest off to the L, and the trail eventually came to it.

Another stream, more snow and deadfall. Photo looks WSW.
On the snow-covered trail, trying not to lose it. Photo looks WSW.
First view of Saddle Creek.
A closer look.
There’s a trail here somewhere! Traversing mounds of snow. Photo looks SW.

Even after reaching Saddle Creek, the trail seldom remained within sight of it.  0.5 mile from the trailhead, Lupe reached a spot SPHP wanted to check out, the place where Rincon Trail No. 722 crossed Saddle Creek.

The stream had great flow at this point, but was spread out enough so it was only a foot or two deep.  On the opposite bank, snow blanketed the forest floor.

At the Rincon Trail No. 722 ford of Saddle Creek. Photo looks S.

Well, this is good news, Looper, just not quite as good as I’d hoped.

What’s good news, SPHP?

Saddle Creek is shallow enough so we can easily ford it.  I’d been hoping for a bridge, but this will do.

We’re fording the creek here, SPHP?

Yup, but not yet, Loopster.  The plan is to explore our way NW from here up to Tobacco Lake Trail No. 719, visit Conejos Peak, and Peak 12555, if we’ve got enough time and energy, then complete a loop back down to this point.  Didn’t want to do all that only to find out that we couldn’t get back across Saddle Creek, so we had to follow the trail at least this far before striking out for the Tobacco Lake Trail.

I suppose that makes sense.  Our bushwhack begins now then, SPHP?

Correctamundo, Sweet Puppy!

Abandoning Rincon Trail No. 722 at the ford without crossing Saddle Creek, Lupe headed NW.  Gaining elevation only gradually at first, she explored a forest where the entire mountainside seemed to be seeping water.  The American Dingo dodged trees, deadfall, pussy willows and other bushes, marshy regions, and many small streams in this area.

Reaching steeper terrain, the ground was drier and nearly snow-free.  Partway up the slope, a sunny clearing provided a good spot to take a short rest break near a small stream.

A beautiful plant common in this forest. A young thistle?
By the rest break stream. Photo looks NW.

After sharing a bit of beef jerky, the march higher continued.  The forest thinned, then ended, as Lupe reached much flatter terrain.  A gigantic snowfield was now ahead.  Huge ridges leading to Conejos Peak, which was now visible off to the W, were full of snow, too, along with much of the upper Saddle Creek valley.  Only areas with significant S exposure, like the big hill beyond the snowfield, were mostly snow-free.

Keep heading NW, Loopster.  That big hill must be HP12429.  Tobacco Lake Trail No. 719 is somewhere between us and it.

Approaching HP12429 (R). Photo looks NW.
Conejos Peak (L) and HP13044 (R) beyond the upper Saddle Creek valley (Center). Photo looks W.

After crossing this first snowfield, the terrain steepened again.  Climbing through a zone of scattered trees, the American Dingo discovered a path just above it at the base of a rock slide.

Tobacco Lake Trail No. 719, I presume, SPHP?

None other, Looper.  Good job!

Lupe had reached the Tobacco Lake trail at a big cairn near a flat, grassy area.  SPHP was ready for another break, and this seemed like a suitable spot.  Overhead, earlier clear skies were now clouding over, putting a bit of a chill in the air.

Next to the cairn (R) where Lupe reached Tobacco Lake Trail No. 719. Conejos Peak (L of Center), HP13044 (R). Photo looks WSW.

SPHP’s oxygen deficiency temporarily rectified, Lupe pressed on, now following Tobacco Lake Trail No. 719 NW.  The scenery was spectacular, and the trail soon vanished beneath all the incredible snow.  Climbing steadily at a generally gradual pace, Lupe crossed one snowfield after another separated only by short stretches of grass and tundra.  Exactly where the trail was became harder and harder to determine.

Didn’t really matter, since the direction she needed to go was clear.

On a snow-free stretch of Tobacco Lake Trail No. 719. Photo looks WNW.
Pressing on, trail or no trail. HP13044 (L), HP12904 (R). Photo looks WNW.

Happily, the snowfields didn’t have much slope to them, and SPHP rarely post-holed.  The Carolina Dog trotted on, enthusiastic about the entire endeavor, especially after spotting a couple of giant deers way up on the ridge W of HP12429.  Even though the giant deers were much higher and far away, seeing them was a thrill.

After making good progress and reaching another snow-free area, a steeper snowfield was ahead.  Even so, it wasn’t steep enough to cause any difficulties.  Angling W, Lupe went right on up, SPHP huffing and puffing along behind.  The American Dingo was getting well up in the world, but still wasn’t as high as Peak 12555, now in sight 2.5 miles SE.

The first relatively steep snowfield. Conejos Peak (L), HP13044 (R). Photo looks SW.
Peak 12555 (Center). Photo looks SE.

Above this first steepish snowfield, Lupe came to a large, flat snow-free region.  Dotted with clumps of low brown bushes, most of this area was covered with thick grass.  A frozen lake soon appeared ahead.

Approaching the frozen lake. Photo looks SW.

6-15-23, 11:00 AM – Tobacco Lake wasn’t completely frozen over.  A fair amount of open water was over toward the SE end.  From the NE shore where Lupe reached the lake, she had a grand view of Conejos Peak and the big snowy ridges leading to it beyond the opposite shore.

Need another rest break, SPHP?  We can hang out by the lake, if you like.

Sounds like a plan, Loop.

The conniving Dingo was only after more beef jerky, but that was OK.  By now, SPHP was confident Lupe was going to get to Conejos Peak despite all the snow.  A 10 mph W wind seemed the only reason for concern.

Relaxing at Tobacco Lake. Peak 12555 (L), Conejos Peak’s E ridge (R). Photo looks SSE.

We’re doing great!  Only 900 feet of elevation gain left, Loopster.  Wonder how windy it’s going to be up on that ridge S of HP13044, though?  We’re pretty sheltered down here.

Hope it isn’t too bad, SPHP.   We Carolina Dogs don’t like wind much.

Probably going to have to deal with some today, Looper, like it or not.

The beef jerky SPHP was willing to part with here having been inhaled almost instantly, it was soon time to bid Tobacco Lake farewell.  After circling around the N shore, Lupe turned SW starting up another steep snowfield.  Before long, a lovely Dingo’s eye view of Tobacco Lake was behind her.

N end of Tobacco Lake. Conejos Peak (L), HP13044 (R of Center). Photo looks SW.
Tobacco Lake. Photo looks S.
Leaving lovely Tobacco Lake behind. HP12429 (Center). Photo looks E.

Above this second steepish snowfield, Lupe once again came to a broad, snow-free, relatively flat region.  Quite boggy, this area was full of the same type of low brown bushes that had been down by Tobacco Lake.  HP13044 was now just ahead, with a partly snow-free slope leading to it.

In no rush to reach the ridge between HP13044 and Conejos Peak, Lupe turned S.  Following lanes between the bushes, she made it to a grassy region where Tobacco Lake Trail No. 719 reappeared.  A series of cairns marked the faint path’s course.

On the wide, bushy bench above Tobacco Lake. HP13044 (R). Photo looks SW.
Following the cairns. Conejos Peak (Center). Photo looks SSW.

Once the Tobacco Lake trail vanished beneath the snow again, it was time to face the last 300 foot high snowfield leading to the upper ridge.  Turning W, Lupe began her ascent.

Heading up. Conejos Peak (R). Photo looks S.

Cake!  No problems at all.  Gaining the broad, rounded ridge connecting HP13044 and Conejos Peak, the terrain flattened as the snowfield came to an end.  When Lupe got high enough to see the territory beyond the wind-swept, snow-free crest, SPHP was shocked.  Maybe 10 miles NW, a line of more rugged peaks stood blanketed in snow beneath a dark gray sky, the most distant summits obscured by a gathering gloom.

On the ridge between HP13044 (R) and Conejos Peak. Photo looks NW.

My gosh, Loopster!  Looks like a storm is coming!

As if this wind isn’t bad enough!  We better get there, SPHP!

Turning S, the American Dingo headed for Conejos Peak (13,172 ft.).

Staying toward the E, a bit below the ridge crest, helped a little, but the W wind was still 20-25 mph up here.  The ridge had a barren look to it, covered mainly with small scree, but there was actually great beauty, too.  Clumps of tiny wildflowers clung tenaciously to what soil there was.

Skirting the upper E side of a low hill along the ridge, the terrain beyond it flattened out completely.  Lupe now felt the full force of a 30 mph gale, but she was almost there!  Less than 200 feet higher, Conejos Peak was directly ahead.

In the wind, heading for Conejos Peak (Center). Photo looks S.
Tiny wildflowers.
A delicate, yet tenacious beauty.
Nearly there! Conejos Peak (Center). Photo looks S.

Off to the NW, more wild mountains were seen beneath a threatening sky, as Lupe headed up a steep NE slope in the cold wind.  Once above the steep part, a cairn was visible 250 feet farther W, only 30 feet higher.  This final stroll into the teeth of the wind across a carpet of scree and tundra was full of joy.

Success! Conejos Peak summit dead ahead! Photo looks W.

6-15-23, 12:52 PM, 42ºF, Conejos Peak (13,172 ft.) – The wind was only 15 mph out of the W when the American Dingo arrived at the summit cairn.  A stunning panorama greeted her.  Strung out from the S all the way around to the W and NW, many high peaks were in sight looking all the more spectacular blanketed beneath an incredible amount of snow.

For a few moments, Lupe was in sunshine.  Virtually everywhere else the sky was overcast, any small patches of blue rapidly retreating SE.  To the W and NW, the mountains looked fearsome beneath a dramatic sky.

Peak 12505 (foreground), Peak 12727 (far L), Snow Benchmark (12,815 ft.) (L), Peak 12887 (Center). Photo looks W.

Look, SPHP!  A blizzard is coming!

A blizzard?  Can’t be, Loopster.  For pity sake, it’s practically the longest day of the year!

Are you blind?  I’m telling you, it’s coming, SPHP!

One by one, the mountains were vanishing from view.

Just a squall, sweet puppy!   Or, at least, it better be.  Quick, get up on that cairn before we’re engulfed, too!

On the Conejos Peak summit cairn as the storm approaches. Photo looks W.

Nice, Loop!  Couple more shots before it’s too late, then we’ll take a break.

Gramps Peak (12,320 ft.) and Chalk Benchmark (12,031 ft.) stood out to the S beyond snow-covered highlands, pointy Fets Peak (12,127 ft.) between them.  Looking N, only Tobacco Lake and the territory recently traveled remained in sight.

Gramps Peak (L), Fets Peak (Center), Chalk Benchmark (R) in the distance. Photo looks SSW.
HP13044 (L), HP12904 (R of Center), Tobacco Lake (R). Photo looks N.

Grabbing a glass jar from the cairn, SPHP sat down facing Peak 12555, away from the wind.  As snow granules began pelting Conejos Peak, the Carolina Dog curled up on SPHP’s lap.  SPHP threw a jacket over her.

Relaxing on Conejos Peak. Peak 12555 (Center). Photo looks ESE.

Guess we just wait it out now, Looper.  By the way, congratulations on your magnificent ascent of Conejos Peak!

Thank you, SPHP!  Any beef jerky left to celebrate with?

Yes!  Water and Taste of the Wild, too.

Lupe chowed down as snow granules came thick and fast.  It was hard to believe that a blizzard could really becoming in mid-June, but conditions continued to deteriorate.  However, the snow granules weren’t sticking.  They all melted as soon as they hit the ground.

Opening the glass jar, a fairly new registry was inside.  Consisting of long, narrow sheets of paper stapled together, the first few pages were full.  After reading a number of entries, SPHP added Lupe’s name to the list, then returned the registry to the jar.

The wind blew, snow granules flew, views vanished.  Comfy and warm, Lupe stayed on SPHP’s lap.  And that was about it.  The Carolina Dog’s traditional summit hour was nearly over by the time the squall passed.  The weather cleared, but only partially.  Another squall was coming out of the WNW.

Picture time, Loopster!  Here’s our chance.

By the “Conejos” survey benchmark. HP13044 (L). Photo looks N.
“Conejos” survey benchmark.
Gramps Peak (R of Center). Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.
Chalk Benchmark (R of Center). Photo looks SSW.
Peak 12727 (L), Snow Benchmark (Center). Photo looks WSW.
Peak 12555 (L) from next to the survey benchmark. Photo looks ESE.

6-15-23, 2:09 PM – How swiftly times flies!  The registry jar was back in its proper place.  For the last time, Lupe stood perched atop the summit cairn.  By now, it had become clear that the second squall was destined to completely miss Conejos Peak to the N.  No sign of a third one.

Final moments on Conejos Peak. Photo looks W.

Weather is getting better, SPHP!  Still time enough to visit Peak 12555?

Yeah, lucky for us, they sure don’t make blizzards like they used to, do they, Looper?  We’ve got to head in that direction anyway, if you’re going to do your big loop.  Provided we’ve still got the energy once we get closer, we’ll hit Peak 12555, too.  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Leaping off the cairn, Lupe headed ESE down Conejos Peak’s enormous E ridge.  Another cairn was only a couple of minutes away, marking the route back to Tobacco Lake Trail No. 719.

Starting down Conejos Peak’s E ridge. Peak 12555 (R of Center). Photo looks E.

The 1.5 mile long trek down the gentle tundra slopes of the E ridge was fun, fast, and easy.  Staying toward the N, Lupe enjoyed a tremendous view of Tobacco Lake and the upper Saddle Creek valley.  Before long, a rockier region appeared ahead.  No matter.  Slowed SPHP’s progress only a little, and Lupe reached tundra again after passing the rocky spots.

Somewhere along the way, Tobacco Lake Trail No. 719 turned SW and disappeared, but that didn’t matter on this glorious open terrain, either.  However, when a line of small cliffs started developing toward the S, SPHP began to wonder if Lupe was going to cliff out at some point, and have to backtrack a bit?

By a Tobacco Lake Trail No. 719 cairn. Peak 12555 (Center). Photo looks ESE.
On the rocks. Conejos Peak (R). Photo looks W.
Back to the tundra, still on faint Tobacco Lake Trail No. 719. Peak 12555 (Center). Photo looks ESE.
HP13044 (L) and HP12904 (R) from along the N rim. Photo looks NW.

Didn’t happen.  Happily, no backtracking required.  Lupe came to a very short little scrambly part, but it was easily dealt with.  Clear sailing the rest of the way down to Rincon Trail No. 722, the only caveat being that huge portions of the gently sloping grasslands below the scramble were hidden beneath a vast field of foot deep slushy snow.

Just below the little scrambly part (L). Photo looks WNW.

Missing the trail, the Carolina Dog headed NE down to a marshy region.  No snow here, but plenty of shallow standing water.  Sloshing through it amid more of the low brown bushes of the type first encountered at Tobacco Lake, it was decision time.

Peak 12555 was now a good mile SE.  The terrain leading to it all looked perfectly easy, but the summit was another 500+ feet higher.  On the other paw, Rincon Trail No. 722 leading back to Saddle Creek wasn’t any more than 0.2 mile NW, and a mere 50 feet higher.  All downhill from there, too!

So, how are you feeling, SPHP?  We’re as close to Peak 12555 right now as we’re ever going to be.  Still want to do it?

Guess the elevation’s getting to me, Loop.  Any uphill at all feels like more of a trudge than I’m really looking forward to at this point.

Aww, come on!  It’s just a big hill!  You can stop for breathers as often as you like, SPHP.

Yeah, “big” and “hill” are the only parts I have any objection to, but you’re right, Loopster.  We’re here.  Let’s do it.  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Peak 12555 (R) from the edge of the marsh. Photo looks SE.

6-15-23, 4:38 PM, 48ºF, Peak 12555 – The highest points of a nearly level plain of grass were along the precipitous E edge of a vast summit region.  Lupe arrived in a chilly 20 mph W wind, discovering 2 cairns perched along this edge, and a long, thin snowbank clinging a few feet below the rim.  A big crack snaking lengthwise down the middle of this snowbank showed that half of it would soon be doomed to plunge into the abyss.

Sensing something out on this enormous plain, Lupe dashed off to do some furious digging.  Meanwhile, SPHP was surprised to see a glass jar at the base of the S cairn.

By the S cairn on Peak 12555’s summit. Photo looks SSE.
Digging for something. Gramps Peak (L) on the horizon. Photo looks SW.

Although unproductive, evidently the digging was very satisfying.  The American Dingo soon returned with a big smile.

Back at the S cairn. Photo looks NNE.

Anything left to eat, SPHP?

Taste of the Wild is it, Loopster.  And water, if you need it.

Some of both, please!

After eating only part of her Taste of the Wild, Lupe laid down next to the cairn.

Found another registry here, SPHP?

Yes, seems a rather unlikely spot for one, but I’m adding your name, Loop.  Oddly, whoever started this registry last October didn’t even add their own name.  The only entry before yours was made only 5 days ago on 6-10-23.

As the excitement of the digging wore off, the effects of a long day in the mountains soon had Lupe nodding off.  SPHP let her doze.

Nodding off by the cairn.

Although they weren’t up to Conejos Peak standards, the views were all beautiful.  To the E, a long section of the Conejos River valley was in sight.  Gramps Peak, Fets Peak, and Chalk Benchmark were all off to the SW.  A distant glimpse of Peak 12727 and Snow Benchmark was due W.  The best view of all, though, was looking WNW back at Conejos Peak and the long E ridge Lupe had come down.

Peak 12727 (R of Center), Snow Benchmark (R beyond the ridge). Photo looks W.
Conejos Peak (Center), HP13044 (R of Center), HP12904 (R). Photo looks WNW.

With miles to go along a partially unexplored route, Lupe couldn’t stay long.  Her nap had done her some good, though, and the rest break had helped SPHP, too.  Less than half an hour after arriving, Lupe left the cairns along the E edge of Peak 12555 heading NW.

During her descent, Lupe went over both HP12221 and HP12160.  Finding another cairn atop the latter, she paused for a final look at Conejos Peak from this last high point.

Conejos Peak (L), HP13044 (R) from the cairn on HP12160. Photo looks WNW.

Heading down HP12160‘s SW slope, Lupe found Rincon Trail No. 722.  After curving NE, the trail made one big switchback back to the W on HP12160‘s N slope, before veering NE again.

Back on Rincon Trail No. 722. Photo looks NE.

But the Carolina Dog didn’t go NE.  Entering the forest, the trail vanished beneath feet of snow.  Turning NW, Lupe once again abandoned the trail, starting a steep descent on a mostly forested slope.  Deadfall to contend with, but this slope was snow-free.

It was a long way down to an amazing hidden valley S of where Rincon Trail No. 722 crosses Saddle Creek.  After crossing a tributary, Lupe still wound up traveling N on huge mounds of snow through deep woods.  However, she’d already lost most of the elevation she needed too, and before long came out right where she was supposed to at the Rincon Trail ford on Saddle Creek.

Back at Saddle Creek. Photo looks NW.

Boots and socks already soaking wet from all the snowfields, SPHP was first to wade right in.  Lupe soon followed.  The rest of the return along Rincon Trail No. 722 was uneventful.  Determining which way the trail went beneath all the mounds of snow seemed easier going downhill.

6-15-23, 7:22 PM, 50ºF, Rincon trailhead along USFS Road No. 105 – It was over.  Conejos Peak and Peak 12555 had been a long, but spectacular and successful day.  Both weary, Lupe was on her pink blanket in the RAV4, while SPHP heated up chicken and dumplings for dinner.

Conejos Peak was the first mountain the American Dingo ever climbed in the mighty San Juan Range, but wasn’t going to be the last.  In fact, Lupe might have seen her next objective while up on Conejos Peak.  It had been somewhere off to the NW, lost or unrecognized in the brewing snow granule mini-blizzard.

SPHP wondered what she would find there?

On Conejos Peak, San Juan Mountains, Colorado 6-15-23
Conejos Peak GPS track (ascent)
Conejos Peak to Peak 12555 GPS track

Links:

Next Adventure                    Prior Adventure

Conejos Peak GPS Track (Scrollable Ascent)

Peak 12555 GPS Track (Scrollable Ascent)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

West Spanish Peak, Sangre de Cristo Range, Colorado (6-13-23)

Days 6 & 7 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico!

6-12-23, 8:53 AM, N Blue Lake off USFS Road No. 369 – Got cold last night!  Lupe woke early to ice on the RAV4.  After a 10 minute dawn patrol, the Carolina Dog had returned to her pink blanket.  SPHP worked on the trip journal while she snoozed.  Outside, thunder heralded the onset of rain and fog, followed shortly by hail and enough snow pellets to turn the ground white.

Sunny now, though.  The American Dingo had already enjoyed a short romp through the forest to an ancient corral at the end of USFS Road No. 369.1Q, and was now busy dividing her time between a chipmunk hiding underneath the RAV4 and sniffing around near scenic N Blue Lake.

Morning at North Blue Lake. Photo looks SE.
North Peak (R of Center) from N Blue Lake. Photo looks E.

I love it here, SPHP!  So beautiful, and so much fun!

Enjoy it while you can, Loopster.  Half an hour, and we’ll be on our way.

6-12-23, 1:06 PM, Hwy 12 NE of La Veta –

There they are, Loop.  Site of your next adventure – the Spanish Peaks!

Which one are we going to climb, SPHP?  Or will we be climbing both?

E Spanish Peak (L) and W Spanish Peak (R) from Hwy 12. Photo looks S.

Only the biggest one, Looper.  Third highest mountain you will have ever been on, if we make it.  West Spanish Peak is also the Las Animas county, Colorado high point, too.

Wow!  Looks pretty big, SPHP.

Yeah, I’ve read there’s a long steep talus climb that I’m kind of worried about.  We’ll just have to see how it goes.  Greenhorn Mountain was a gimme compared to West Spanish.

6-12-23, 4:27 PM, USFS Road No. 46, S of La Veta – Today was just a rest and positioning day.  After scouting out Cordova Pass, the trailhead for West Spanish Peak (13,626 ft.) located 6 miles from Cuchara Pass on USFS Road No. 46, SPHP drove clear back to the more sheltered John B. Farley Memorial Wildflower Overlook.

The terrain around the wildflower overlook was steep, but by exploring back up USFS Road No. 46 a little way, Lupe managed to find a beautiful level field of dandelions in which to enjoy a sunny late afternoon romp.  Evening, however, brought a cold, dense fog.

At the John B. Farley Memorial Wildflower Overlook. Photo looks WNW.
Enjoying an afternoon romp. Photo looks NE.

6-13-23, 6:42 AM, 40ºF, John Farley Memorial Wildflower Overlook –  Blue skies!  Last evening’s fog was but a memory.  SPHP fired up the RAV4.  20 minutes later, Lupe was at Cordova Pass.  West Spanish Peak was a go!

At Cordova Pass. Photo looks W.
Posted information at the trailhead.

6-13-23, 7:28 AM, 37ºF, Cordova Pass – The pack was ready.  Despite a certain degree of trepidation after seeing how steep West Spanish Peak was yesterday, it was now or never.

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Certainly nothing to worry about at the start.  West Peak trail No. 1390 began flat as a pancake as Lupe left the trailhead trotting into a forest.  After a quick 0.25 mile, the Salazar trail branched off to the L.  Just past this fork, Lupe emerged from the forest, entering a huge meadow.  On the far side, a more extensive forest stretched all the way to the base of mighty West Spanish Peak (13,626 ft.).

Start of West Peak trail No. 1390 at Cordova Pass. Photo looks N.
Along the first stretch of forest. Photo looks NE.
Approaching the junction with the Salazar trail. Photo looks NE.
West Spanish Peak (R) from the meadow. Photo looks NE.

Hmm.  West Spanish Peak’s not looking any easier from here, Looper.

Won’t know what it’s really like until we get there, SPHP.

Lupe kept going, quickly crossing the meadow.  Shortly after entering the next forest, Levi Krier trail No. 1392 split off to the L.  West Peak trail No. 1390 now began a long, gradual descent.

At the junction with Levi Krier trail No. 1392 (L). West Peak trail No. 1390 (R). Photo looks NE.
Signage at the junction.

For a while, the American Dingo came to no more side trails, except an unmarked one that went 50 feet up onto a ridge to the L.  Sticking with what appeared to be the main West Peak trail, it continued slowly losing elevation before finally bottoming out.

6-13-23, 8:12 AM – Still in forest, Lupe reached a junction with Apishapa trail No. 1324.  By now, West Peak trail No. 1390 had turned SE for a little way, and regained a fair amount of the elevation that had been slowly lost.  The West Peak trail made a nearly 180º turn back to the NW here, while the Apishapa trail continued straight.  Wouldn’t be that hard to miss this turn due to the way the signage was oriented, except that the Apishapa trail was not as well traveled.

Apishapa trail No. 1324 continues straight here, while West Peak trail No. 1390 makes a U-turn L. Photo looks SE.
Same junction after Lupe made the turn. The lower trail returns to Cordova Pass. The upper one goes to West Spanish Peak. Photo looks NW.
This signage does not face the hiker on the way to West Spanish Peak. Only the back side is visible on the L when coming from Cordova Pass.

Beyond this junction, West Peak trail No. 1390 began a steady climb made easier by a series of switchbacks.  So far, there had been virtually no clearings in the forest, but within minutes, Lupe came to an opening with a view back to the SW of the big meadow she’d crossed with snowy Trinchera Peak (13,517 ft.) lined up behind it.

The huge meadow (foreground) and Trinchera Peak (R of Center). Photo looks SW.

20 minutes later, the switchbacks ended as Lupe reached a small, flat meadow with gritty soil.  A short water and beef jerky break was taken here while admiring and studying the view of West Spanish Peak, which was now much closer.  A new worry presented itself.  Although it was still early, clouds were already spreading across much of the sky.

West Spanish Peak from the small meadow. Photo looks NE.

We better not dilly-dally here too long, Looper.

Ready when you are, SPHP!

Beyond the small meadow, the West Peak trail returned to the forest, and began climbing again at a gradually increasing pace.  Another series of switchbacks appeared as the slope steepened.  Lupe soon came upon a snowbank several feet high over the trail.

Crossing the snowbank was easy.  Just past it, the Carolina Dog reached another switchback.  This turn was out in the open, providing the first big view to the N.

Crossing the snowbank. Photo looks N.
Blanca Peak (L) on the horizon, Mount Mestas (far R). Photo looks NNW.

Impressive view already, SPHP!

It is, Loop!  That must be Blanca Peak (14,345 ft.) on the NW horizon, and Mount Mestas (11,569 ft.) sitting out there alone on the R.

What about that distant range between them, SPHP?  Can you pick out Greenhorn Mountain from here?

No, not really.  That area is so far away, that I can’t tell what’s what.

Ever consider investing in binoculars, SPHP?

Some fine day, Loopster.

From this viewpoint, the trail once again turned sharply back to the SE, re-entering the forest before quickly leaving it again.  Ahead, the next turn, a big curve completely out in the open, provided another grand view of Trinchera Peak (13,517 ft.), plus a long string of peaks farther S extending all the way to Culebra Peak (14,047 ft.).

Culebra Peak (L) and Trinchera Peak (R) on the horizon. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe was now at treeline.  The trail made one more jog back to the N, where the American Dingo reached an enormous cairn.

By the enormous cairn. Photo looks NE.

6-13-23, 9:06 AM – This was it, the crux of the matter.  No more forests, meadows or switchbacks.  Beyond the cairn, which apparently marked the official end of West Peak trail No. 1390, the SW face of West Spanish Peak soared toward an as yet unseen summit less than a mile away.

Shoot!  No worries, SPHP!  Steep enough, but doesn’t look that bad, except maybe close to the top.  We’ve done slopes like this plenty of times before.  This one’s just super long.  The talus isn’t even very big.

Got to agree, Looper.  I’m encouraged!  Like you say, looks like the crucial area is the region just below that upper rim.  Appears it all depends on how steep and loose it gets up there.  Heck of a trudge, though, so we best get started.  We’re still a good 1,700 to 1,800 feet below the summit.

As Lupe started up the mountain, there was another favorable sign.  The general cloudiness which had been building rapidly not so long ago, was now actually burning away to some degree.

Following a use path, Lupe went up a series of several humps partially covered with low green vegetation.  Beyond them, the slope steepened some more as the American Dingo entered a world of nothing but rock.

Off to a good start down where there was still a bit of greenery. Photo looks NE.
Among some of the larger rocks. Photo looks NE.

Lupe really seemed into it!  The Carolina Dog climbed and climbed.  Meanwhile, laggard SPHP huffed and puffed, frequently pausing for breathers.  The use trail became braided, offering a variety of routes.  In some places, the talus was so small that SPHP would have considered it scree, but then, what did SPHP know about such things?  In other places, short sections of the trails were simply hard-packed grit.

A few little patches of snow were ahead.  Happy to reach them, Lupe chomped away at the snow.  Numerous tiny frozen waterfalls among the rocks were just starting to drip in the morning sun.  Toward the L, bands of exposed bedrock formed lines of small cliffs and ledges.  Looked like Lupe would soon be above them, but more kept appearing above.

Enjoying a patch of snow. Photo looks NE.
Below a small band of bedrock. Photo looks NNE.
Among the tiny frozen waterfalls. Photo looks NE.

The enormous slope was very steep, but uniform.  Nothing scary at all.  No super tough scrambles higher, edges of precipices, etc.  For the most part, the talus was pretty stable.  Even SPHP caused surprisingly little rock slide.  Bigger chunks were nearly always firmly anchored.

Lupe did fantastic!  SPHP kept stopping to gasp for air, sometimes even sitting down for a few minutes.  Chocolate peanut butter bars and beef jerky were often shared during these short breaks to keep energy levels from crashing.

It was a long way up.  Yet, bit by bit, despite more terrain continuing to appear above, even SPHP was getting there.

Peering back down the slope. Photo looks SSW.
Loopster ready to keep going. Photo looks SSE.
Leading the way. Photo looks NE.

Lupe was still 300 feet from the top when a line of snowbanks along the S side of the West Spanish Peak’s summit ridge first came into view.   The steepest part of the climb that came near the end, just before gaining the ridgeline, really wasn’t any worse than the rest of the ascent.

Suddenly Lupe was there, up on a broad, almost level region near the W end of the summit ridge.  Still some elevation yet to be gained from here, but it was basically a romp.  Turning E, Lupe crossed a big snowfield, then started the final part of her ascent in search of the true summit.

Snow along the upper S side of West Spanish Peak’s summit ridge. Photo looks ENE.
On the lower W end of the summit ridge. Photo looks ENE.

6-13-23, 11:30 AM, 52ºF, West Spanish Peak (13,626 ft.) –  The highest part of the summit ridge was several hundred feet long.  Arriving at the W end, Lupe discovered a cairn.  Whether this cairn was actually at the true summit or not wasn’t completely clear.  A couple more minor high points farther E were at least in contention.  Hardly mattered, since any elevation differences along the entire upper ridge were minimal.

SPHP examined the cairn.

By the summit cairn on West Spanish Peak. East Spanish Peak (L of Center). Photo looks ENE.

Well, shucks!

What’s wrong, SPHP?

This is a day to remember, Loop!  West Spanish Peak is the 3rd highest mountain you’ve ever summited.  Haven’t been this high since you climbed Mount Massive nearly 8 years ago.  Wanted to enter your name in the registry, but there doesn’t seem to be one.

You can still shake my paw and congratulate me, SPHP.

Why, of course.  Congratulations, Loopster!  Well done, sweet puppy!  We actually made it.

Thank you, SPHP!  Can we take a break now?  It’s been quite a climb.

Sure, but let’s go over to the E end of the ridge first, Looper.  We can tag the other high points along the way.

A long snowbank clung to the S side of the summit ridge.  Lupe had to go over part of it on her way to the E end, which she didn’t mind at all.

On the way to the E end of the summit ridge. Blanca Peak (R) on the horizon. Photo looks WNW.
Cooling off near the E end. Trinchera Peak (L). Photo looks W.
Trinchera Peak with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.
Culebra Peak. Photo looks SSW.

You somehow managed to forget to bring the chocolate coconut bars on this Dingo Vacation, SPHP.  What else have you got in that pack?

Well now, let’s see.  How does a Full Moon Savory Stick or a chocolate peanut butter bar sound, Looper?

How about both, SPHP?  And Taste of the Wild and water, too.

Your wish is my command, oh famished one!  Coming right up.

The sky was quite cloudy now.  Although Lupe was usually in sunshine, rain showers were in all directions, especially dark and a little ominous off to the W.  SPHP kept an eye on developments in that direction.  So far, no cause for alarm.

Rain showers beyond the town of La Veta. Mount Mestas (far L). Photo looks N.
The dark horizon. Photo looks SW.

The 2 Spanish Peaks being somewhat isolated from others, views were tremendous in all directions.  East Spanish Peak (12,683 ft.), less than 5 miles ENE, was a big mountain, yet nearly 1,000 feet lower.

East Spanish Peak (Center). Photo looks ENE.
Another angle. East Spanish Peak (R). Photo looks NE.

Other than East Spanish Peak, nothing anywhere toward the E was even remotely close to being as high as West Spanish Peak.  The green plains of eastern Colorado stretched away to a murky horizon.  Only lowlands existed toward the S, too.  Lupe could see some high mountains to the N, but they were very far away.   Only significantly lower ones, the highest of which was Mount Mestas (11,569 ft.), were relatively nearby.

Thousands of feet below, several long, thin lines of rock radiated away to the N from the base of West Spanish Peak.

Peering down West Spanish Peak’s N slope. Photo looks N.

Mighty Blanca Peak (14,345 ft.) dominated an impressive group near the NW horizon.  Somewhat closer, a long line of partially snow-capped Sangre de Cristo Range peaks ran all the way from the WNW clear down to Culebra Peak (14,047 ft.) on the SSW horizon.

By the time only 15 minutes remained of Lupe’s traditional summit hour, numerous cumulus clouds were sailing over West Spanish Peak.  Dark showers off to the W had already advanced to the nearest line of snowy mountains, and were still coming this way.  Abandoning the E end of the summit ridge, Loopster headed back toward the cairn.

At possibly the true summit on the way back to the cairn (R). Photo looks WNW.

Hanging out by the cairn, the Carolina Dog watched conditions steadily deteriorate as what was left of her summit hour slipped away.  Either fog or a cloudburst made it past the snowy peaks, apparently now destined straight for West Spanish Peak.

Up on the cairn. Mount Mestas (R). Blanca Peak (far L) obscured by clouds. Photo looks NNW.
Atop West Spanish Peak as the storm approaches. Photo looks WSW.
Monitoring the situation with a view of the lower W end of the summit ridge. Photo looks SW.

6-13-23, 12:29 PM, West Spanish Peak summit – Lupe stood by the cairn, East Spanish Peak beyond her beneath an increasingly dramatic sky.

A final look at East Spanish Peak (L of Center) from West Spanish Peak’s summit. Photo looks ENE.

Is our hour up yet, SPHP?

One more minute, Loopster!  Hate to abandon such a glorious perch, but we may have already overstayed our welcome.

Haven’t heard any thunder yet, SPHP.  Why don’t you start down first?  I’ll linger here a bit longer, then catch up.

Loathe to leave, SPHP stuck around a few more minutes, praising Lupe on her successful ascent while watching the darkening sky amid rain showers all around.  SPHP finally set off back down the W ridge while the Carolina Dog remained, now poised alone atop West Spanish Peak.

Heading down the W ridge. Photo looks SW.
Glancing down the NW slope. Photo looks NW.
Last moments atop West Spanish Peak. Photo looks ENE.

Ever faithful, Lupe couldn’t stand to let SPHP get too far away.  Before long, she came streaking across the snow, overtaking SPHP in nothing flat.  Passing by a collection of boulders, the biggest rocks she’d seen on West Spanish Peak, Lupe paused long enough to scramble up onto them.

Up on the lower W ridge boulders. Photo looks SW.

Looks like we’re in for it, SPHP!

Afraid so, Loopster.

How long before the storm hits, SPHP?

15, maybe 20 minutes.  No more than that.  Let’s hope it’s just a squall.

Nothing happened.  Shortly after Lupe started down that very long steep SW slope, the weather changed.  The storm began breaking up.  Drifting off to the N, its remnants missed West Spanish Peak entirely.  By the time the American Dingo made it back to West Peak trail No. 1390, it was a beautiful day.

Back down on the switchbacks.

The return was easy.  Never tiring, Lupe led the way.  On the other paw, SPHP sometimes had to take rest breaks even on minor inclines.  Lupe paused now and then, too, glancing wistfully back at West Spanish Peak.

Bidding West Spanish Peak (Center) farewell. Photo looks NE.
Final look back from the huge meadow. Photo looks NE.

6-13-23, 3:30 PM – It was sunny, breezy, and cool when Lupe made it back to Cordova Pass.  The Carolina Dog did seem happy to leap into the RAV4 and curl up on her pink blanket.  SPHP somehow summoned the energy required to provide food and water before passing out.  A 3 hour joint nap ensued.

When SPHP finally came to again, it was cold and windy.  Returning to the much lower John B. Farley Memorial Wildflower Overlook 0.5 mile from Cuchara Pass suddenly seemed like a terrific idea.

6-13-23, 7:00 PM, John B. Farley Memorial Wildflower Overlook – The sky was full of clouds when Lupe arrived.  5 minutes later, a combination of rain and sleet set in.  Rained and sleeted the rest of the evening, at times quite hard.  By the time the light began to dim, a thick fog had moved in.

No matter.  What a grand and glorious day!  The day before she turned 12.5 years old, Lupe had been to West Spanish Peak (13,626 ft.)!

West Spanish Peak, Sangre de Cristo Range, Colorado 6-13-23
Legends of Spanish Peaks
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