2019 Yukon & Alaska – Page 11 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Mount Lorne, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-11-19)

Day 7 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

On the road again! When was this ever going to end? Bright and early, Lupe had left the Hitchcock rest area on Atlin Lake, hitting the road N. Soon she was back in the Yukon. It was already mid-morning by the time SPHP pulled into the Robinson Roadhouse Historic Site rest area N of Carcross. The Carolina Dog was surprised when SPHP started getting the pack ready.

The **Robinson Roadhouse Historic Site** is on the W side of the S Klondike Hwy between Whitehorse and Carcross.

Why the pack, SPHP? We’ve already been to the roadhouse once before. It’s not far beyond these trees W of the rest area, if I remember right.

Oh, we’re not going to the roadhouse again, Loop. Wasn’t that much to it. We might not have gotten across Atlin Lake yesterday to take on Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.), but we’ve got other tricks up our sleeve. Supposed to be a trail up Mount Lorne (6,629 ft.) not far from here, so we’re going to give that a shot instead.

I remember Mount Lorne, SPHP! We saw it twice last year, didn’t we? Once from Grey Mountain up by Whitehorse, and then again the next day from Nares Mountain down by Carcross. Kind of a big, lumpy ridge with a high point toward the E, isn’t it? Higher than anything else near it.

Yeah, that’s it, Loopster. I understand it’s possible to make a loop going up and down different ends of the ridge. So never a dull moment, aye? Should be a fun time!

10:15 AM, 51ºF, S Klondike Hwy at Bear Creek a mile S of the Robinson Roadhouse Historic Site – This was supposed to be it, the trailhead for Mount Lorne. Dirt parking areas were on both sides of the highway on the S side of Bear Creek. SPHP parked in the E lot. No one around, and no posted information at all, but Lupe quickly discovered a trail running E along the N bank of the stream.

*This way, SPHP!* On the N bank of **Bear Creek**. Photo looks E.

Looking W back toward the S Klondike Hwy.

200 feet from the highway, the trail turned NE into the forest. Lupe soon passed private property on the L (N). The trail then wound generally E for a little way before rejoining Bear Creek.

In the forest after leaving Bear Creek behind. Photo looks E.

Rejoining **Bear Creek** 10 minutes later. Photo looks E.

This time Lupe followed Bear Creek E for 10 or 15 minutes before the trail veered off to the NE a second time. The trail never did cross the stream, and did not return to it again.

Miss Hot Paws cooling off in **Bear Creek**. Photo looks ENE.

For what seemed like a long way, the trail wound ENE. Lupe gradually gained elevation. Finally, upon reaching a grove of aspens, the trail steepened considerably. Partway up, SPHP paused to rest.

A young man and woman appeared at the base of the slope, and soon caught up. They were from Whitehorse, and had some timely advice. Not much farther ahead at the top of this rise, the trail would divide. They had been here a week ago intent on climbing Mount Lorne, and had gone L (N) at the intersection, misled by blue and orange ribbons marking that route. A 10 km trek had ensued bringing them back to the S Klondike Hwy far from their vehicle, but never anywhere close to Mount Lorne.

Now they were back, once again intent upon getting to Mount Lorne. Naturally, their advice was to go R (E) at the junction. Lupe had already seen quite a few blue and orange ribbons tied to trees and branches along the way, so it was easy to understand their previous error. SPHP thanked the hikers as they set off again, now taking the lead.

It really wasn’t much farther up to the junction. The two hikers were still there taking a break when Lupe arrived. Staying to the R as advised, the American Dingo carried on, retaking the lead.

The trail continued E for a long way. Beyond the intersection it was level for a short distance, but soon began to climb again. Lupe gained a fair amount of elevation before the trail finally leveled out a second time. On and on it went. Loop was glad when the trail crossed a tributary of Bear Creek, the last water on the way to Mount Lorne.

On a flat stretch beyond the junction. Photo looks SE.

Last water along the way, a tributary of Bear Creek.

Due to the forest, it was difficult to get a sense of how much progress the Carolina Dog was making. All that was clear was that Lupe was now on the S side of a much higher ridge to the N (L). Somewhere ahead there was supposed to be an old cabin. It was important not to miss the cabin, because that was where the most direct route to Mount Lorne splits off from the trail Looper was on.

As Lupe continued farther and farther E, SPHP became concerned. How close did this trail actually come to the cabin? The cabin wouldn’t have to be very far off into the forest to be easy to miss. Had Loop already passed it without noticing it?

*What a worrywart! The cabin’s right here, SPHP!*

Not to worry! Can’t miss it! The old cabin proved to be right next to the N (L) side of the trail. Sure didn’t amount to much. Small and rustic in the extreme, the roof had caved in decades ago. At least Lupe hadn’t gone by it. On the E side, a distinct pawpath curved around to the back side of the cabin before turning N up the slope leading to the big ridge. That had to be the most direct route up Mount Lorne (6,629 ft.), the one the American Dingo had been looking for.

On the E side of the cabin. The pawpath goes off to the R, then curves L back behind N wall before heading N up to Mount Lorne’s SW ridge. Photo looks NW.

The two hikers from Whitehorse weren’t far behind. They reappeared while Lupe was still inspecting the old cabin. Just S of the cabin, a small clearing overlooked the Bear Creek valley, the only viewpoint along the entire route thus far. The hikers paused here for another short break. For a few minutes, Lupe joined them.

Looking SW from the viewpoint near the old cabin.

Loopster’s ascent of Mount Lorne was about to begin in earnest! Bidding her new friends adieu, Lupe returned to the cabin. Crossing the main trail, she followed the pawpath around the cabin and headed higher.

It was a big climb up to the ridge. Steep, but no more than that. No rough ground or any scrambling at all. The forest began to thin out. By the time Lupe got to tree line, the two hikers had caught up. Outpacing SPHP, they retook the lead. The top of Mount Lorne came into view, still 2 miles off to the NE.

On the side path from the cabin going up to the big ridge.

*Finally getting somewhere! There’s **Mount Lorne** (R)!* Photo looks NE.

By the time the Carolina Dog was closing in on the ridgeline, she was not only above tree line, but essentially above bush line, too. Tremendous views of the glorious Yukon in all directions now! The last part of this first big climb was the steepest. A cairn sat along the edge of the ridge where Lupe finally popped up onto it.

Reaching **Mount Lorne’s SW ridge**. The cairn marking where the trail came up is seen on the L. Photo looks SW.

Loop had made it up onto Mount Lorne’s SW ridge. The ridge was broad, rounded, and only sparsely vegetated. As near as SPHP could figure it, the American Dingo was now at about 4,800 feet, which meant she still needed to gain more than 1,800 feet to reach the summit.

Quite a bit of the ridge leading to the summit was in already in sight. As expected, Lupe faced a long, bumpy, but seemingly not overly-rugged trek to the top.

The route ahead from the SW ridge close to where Lupe first reached it. **Mount Lorne’s summit** visible at (R). Photo looks NNE.

Lupe’s new friends were still there when she first reached the SW ridge. SPHP chatted with them briefly before they took off again. This pattern repeated several times as everyone continued toward the summit, but in the end SPHP couldn’t keep up. The two hiker’s lead grew steadily, as SPHP toiled up the mountain behind them. Before long, Lupe no longer caught up with them during their rest breaks, but they often remained in sight working their way up to the next high point.

The trail became intermittent, vanishing or becoming faint during level stretches, but usually reappearing again on the next leg higher.

Approaching the first bump higher along the ridge. Photo looks NE.

Beyond the first hill, the ridge began to narrow a bit. Photo looks NNE.

Looking back down the **SW ridge** (L of Center) from the first hill. Photo looks SW.

The **first major high point** (L) isn’t much farther now. **Mount Lorne’s summit** (R) is straight up from Lupe. Photo looks NE.

Lupe climbed and climbed, usually going up in big spurts separated by relatively level stretches. The ridge narrowed in places, but was never tricky until the American Dingo got close to the first major high point.

What might be considered Mount Lorne’s W summit tops out at about 6,400 feet, not even 250 feet less than the true summit, still a mile due E. Approaching the W summit, the ridge narrowed considerably. Ahead the terrain was very rocky and steep, especially toward the S.

Approaching the **W summit** (L). **True summit** (R). Photo looks ENE.

*Suddenly looking a bit gnarly, SPHP!* Photo looks ENE.

Trying to go straight up the ridgeline looked inadvisable. Staying toward the NW, Lupe started up. Careful! For the first time, the ascent became a scramble, a rather steep one with a bit of exposure in spots. Loopster followed narrow lanes higher. Some of the rock was loose, but exposed bedrock was sometimes present as well, providing firm pawholds.

Traversing much farther along the increasingly steep NW slope soon looked inadvisable, too. Lupe was forced to head almost straight up. Happily, it looked like she was already far enough to get past the worst of the ridgeline. Hopefully the situation would now be a lot better, if she could just get back up to it again.

Looking back during the climb toward the W summit. Photo looks SW.

Better not get too much steeper! Photo looks S.

The last bit of the climb to the ridgeline was the steepest. Fortunately, most of the rock near the top was firm. Made it! Lupe was back on top. A short stroll along a narrow rocky part, and the ridge began to broaden out again. Nice and smooth! The worst was over.

A post-sized 2 foot high piece of bleached wood stuck up out of a cairn at the high point of Mount Lorne’s W summit. The large summit region curved away to the N, eventually leading down Mount Lorne’s NW ridge, if one continued that way far enough. To the E, in the direction of the true summit, a rounded slope dropped away out of sight.

*So far, so good! We’ve made it to **Mount Lorne’s W summit**.* Photo looks N.

**Mount Lorne’s NW ridge** (Center). **Cowley Lakes** (L). Photo looks NW.

**Mount Lorne’s true summit** (R) from the W summit. **Marsh Lake** (L) in the distance. Photo looks ENE.

Ugh! While there had been a few minor drops along the way, they had scarcely amounted to anything. However, going far enough E to peer down the slope leading to the true summit now revealed a grassy saddle a good 300 feet lower. No way to avoid it, Lupe was going to have to lose all that elevation. The down slope was all rocky. Worse yet, the climb waiting on the far side of the saddle looked steep, perhaps difficult.

With no other option, Looper set off down the rocky slope.

Heading down to the saddle leading to the **true summit** (Center). Photo looks E.

*Come on, SPHP! The other side isn’t that bad.* Loop nearing the saddle’s low point. Photo looks E.

Regaining the elevation Lupe had lost going down to the saddle wasn’t nearly as difficult as it had appeared from the W summit. Sort of a steep trudge higher, but that was it. Before long, the American Dingo was at the top of the next hill, just as high as she had been at the W summit.

Almost to the top of the next hill. Photo looks E.

*As high as ever!* Looking back at the W summit. Photo looks W.

Looking E, the ridge narrowed somewhat again, but it appeared Looper now had a straight shot to the true summit! A little deceiving. One more drop was ahead, but it proved to be relatively minor, on the order of 50 to 75 feet. Wasn’t long before the American Dingo was at the base of the final climb, which didn’t look that bad.

**Mount Lorne’s W summit** (R). The **SW ridge** where Lupe had first reached it (far L) is in sunlight far below. Photo looks WSW.

The final climb to the top. Photo looks E.

**Mount Lorne’s true summit** (L). The **S ridge** (R). Photo looks SE.

The **S ridge** looked rougher than the way Lupe had come up. Photo looks SSE.

Nothing to it! Lupe just **W of the true summit**. Photo looks E.

The two hikers were relaxing S of the summit cairn when Lupe and SPHP finally reached the top of Mount Lorne. Introductions were now made. Lupe’s new friends were Greg Johannson and Svetlana Koptyeva. Greg was a lawyer (public defender) originally from Toronto, and Svetlana was a law clerk from the Ukraine. They had both moved to Whitehorse about a year ago, and were totally enthusiastic about how magnificent and wonderful the Yukon is.

With new friends Greg and Svetlana by the summit cairn. Photo looks SE.

While Lupe and SPHP were still visiting with Greg and Svetlana, another man and a young woman reached the summit. They had come up the same way, and must not have been far behind. For a while, everyone milled around the summit area chatting and enjoying the views.

Looking back at Lupe’s route up. **W summit** (Center). **SW ridge** (L). The **NW ridge** (R) is also in view. Photo looks W.

*Well, we made it to the top of our first magnificent Yukon Territory peak of 2019! So, do I look intrepid enough yet, SPHP?* Photo looks E.

**Summit of Mount Lorne** from a little farther E. The **SW ridge** Lupe came up is seen on the L. Photo looks W.

Greg, Svetlana, and Loop. Photo looks W.

*And to think that this only half of it! Now we’re going to have to go all the way back down!*

Checking out **Mount Lorne’s S ridge** (foreground), Lupe’s return route if she wanted to fully explore the whole loop it was possible to make. Photo looks SE.

Half an hour after Lupe reached the summit, Greg and Svetlana were getting ready to leave. Before departing, they stopped to pose with Lupe. They also had a question. Would Lupe like to meet up with them again? Greg and Svetlana were going to be camping with friends and family near the visitor center in Tombstone Territorial Park on August 22nd. The next day they were planning to take the trail to Grizzly Lake and camp out there. They kindly invited Lupe to join them!

That sounded terrific! The American Dingo already had plans to go through Tombstone Territorial Park on this Dingo Vacation. In fact she had been to Grizzly Lake once before, and hoped to return and go even further this year. Teaming up with Greg and Svetlana would be a blast! Whether the timing would actually work out or not wasn’t clear at this point, but if it did, Lupe and SPHP would be thrilled to join them.

With **Svetlana** and **Greg** shortly before they departed, but perhaps not for the last time! Photo looks W.

Greg and Svetlana left, apparently intent upon making the big loop, since they headed down the S ridge. The first part of the decent was easy, but Lupe saw them pause to consider the best route forward where the S ridge became rugged. The other man and young woman started down 10 minutes later, going the same way.

Lupe and SPHP were alone at the top of Mount Lorne. Although some patches of blue remained, by now the sky was mostly cloudy. Visibility wasn’t as good as it had been earlier in the day. Even below the cloud deck, the air was hazy, the views indistinct.

Despite the murkiness, Lupe could still make out some mountains she had been to before. Near Whitehorse, Grey Mountain (4,901 ft.) was in sight off to the NW. Nares Mountain (5,833 ft.) was far to the S. Beyond Nares was Montana Mountain (7,213 ft.). Lupe hadn’t climbed that one yet. Even farther away, Mount Minto (6,913 ft.) was barely visible to the SE. Lupe hadn’t climbed Minto, either, but she had seen it across Atlin Lake just this morning.

Parts of some big lakes could be seen too, including Marsh Lake, Little Atlin, Tagish, and Bennett.

**Grey Mountain** *(aka Canyon Mountain)* (Center) near Whitehorse. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

**Nares Mountain** (Center), with **Montana Mountain** (R of Center) on the horizon. Photo looks S.

An hour after she’d arrived, Lupe left the summit of Mount Lorne. She headed for the S ridge like everyone else.

About ready to head down the S ridge. **Marsh Lake** in the distance. Photo looks SE.

The S ridge quickly turned rough. During the ascent only the scramble up to the W summit had been this tricky. For a considerable distance the ridgeline was mostly too narrow and rugged to stay right up on it. Lupe had to scramble along one side or the other, but was seldom forced too far below the top. At first it was best to stay toward the E, later on the going was easier toward the W.

As usual, SPHP’s progress was extremely slow on this type of terrain. The sure-pawed Carolina Dog had plenty of time to enjoy the views.

Looking down the **W side of the S ridge**. Photo looks S.

The **valley SW of the summit** (Center). The **SW ridge** Lupe had gone up is seen on the R. Photo looks SW.

Scrambling along the **W side of the S ridge**. Photo looks S.

A glance back up from a nice wide spot. Photo looks NW.

On the E side of the ridge now. Getting sunny again! Photo looks S.

Making progress! The rough stuff ends at the high point on the R. Photo looks SSE.

A look back at the true summit. Photo looks NNW.

Last of the rocky terrain. Photo looks SSE.

Took forever, but at last Lupe stood atop the final rocky high point along the S ridge. Looking back, she still wasn’t all that far from the summit.

On the **last rocky high point of the S ridge**. **Mount Lorne’s summit** (Center). Photo looks NNW.

The **S face of Mount Lorne’s W ridge** from the **true summit** (R) to the **W summit** (L). Photo looks NW.

The sky had cleared somewhat. The haze had diminished. As Lupe left the rocky terrain and started down a long, broad slope, before her the incredible Yukon wilderness basked in a serene evening glow.

Leaving the rocky region. Photo looks SSW.

Everyone else was long gone. Lupe hadn’t seen anyone for a while, and wouldn’t see them again. Down, down, down the long slope. Progress was rapid. Even SPHP was stepping lively. Good thing, because the Carolina Dog still had a long way to go.

The plan was to follow the S ridge as far S as necessary to reach an ATV trail. The ATV trail was supposed to link up with the same trail that went past the old cabin Lupe had left so long ago. Turning W too soon meant trouble, a long bushwhack in the wilderness.

The plan was to stay to the L following the high ground S until coming to an ATV trail. Turning W (R) too soon was asking for trouble. Photo looks S.

Even knowing this, SPHP blew it. Lupe had lost a tremendous amount of elevation, and had already bypassed the first ridge leading SW, when she came to a ravine draining SW from the high ground. Looking down the ravine, SPHP could see a road way down there.

That must be it! The ATV trail! Lupe headed down the ravine, but when she got to the road, it wasn’t an ATV trail at all, just a strip of exposed dirt. No sign of any kind of road or trail anywhere. Not good! SPHP tried to lead Lupe SE, taking a shortcut back up to the high ground where she could continue S.

Not gonna happen. The American Dingo was already almost all the way back down to tree line. The vast slope to the SE was densely covered with chest high bushes. No breaks between them. Impossible! Loopster either had to retrace her route all the way back up the ravine or face the wilderness.

Onward! Puppy, ho! Nope. Not going back. Giving up on returning to the high ground, Lupe turned W, the most direct route back to the old cabin. Exactly where she went, SPHP can no longer say. Looper crossed the ravine she had come down expecting to find the road, but lower down where it was deeper than before. She then forced a way up onto the first big ridge that went SW from the S ridge she had abandoned.

Crossing this ridge, Lupe began a long plunge down through thick forest losing more elevation than SPHP thought possible. Finally reaching the valley SW of Mount Lorne’s summit, she crossed it and a tributary of Bear Creek, too. Still heading W, she traversed a long forested slope while gradually regaining some of the elevation she had lost. Once in a while there were animal trails, or a little open ground, but for the most part it was a long struggle battling the wilderness.

Getting late. The last time Lupe had a view, rain showers were off to the W. Even with the long twilight of the far N, light was fading.

Hurry, hurry! Looper couldn’t afford to miss the path! Had to get to it before it was too dark to notice. Finally, there it was. This had to be it didn’t it? Lupe was standing on some sort of trail. Turning S, the Carolina Dog followed the path lower.

Lupe must have regained more elevation than SPHP realized. It was a long way down, but suddenly there was the old cabin, and next to it the main trail. Still miles back to the S Klondike Hwy, but with the help of a flashlight the rest was easy.

Even so, weariness eventually demanded a break. Dumping the pack, SPHP flopped down flat on the ground. Lupe snuggled up beside, still sniffing the air and listening. Silence. Overhead, a tiny patch of sky was barely light enough to contrast with a dark circle of surrounding spires – the jet black tops of spruce trees.

What a day! What a place! Mount Lorne had been awesome! The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Circle was really here again. So good to be back in Canada’s fabled Yukon Territory! (End 8-23-29, 12:36 AM)

With Svetlana Koptyeva and Gregory Johannson, **Mount Lorne**, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-11-19

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Grey Mountain near Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, Canada (9-9-18)

Nares Mountain, Yukon Territory, Canada (9-10-18)

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Yukon Bound! – Getting Nowhere on the Long Road North (8-8-19 to 8-10-19)

Days 4-6 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-8-19, dawn, Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 W of Jasper – Uh-oh. Warning! Dingo triggering event ahead! Not another soul on the road yet, but SPHP had to brake. One of those portable temporary stoplights for road construction had just turned red. Lupe stared in disbelief, her eyes growing big as saucers as she began to realize what she was coming to. Her hackles rose. SPHP completely shut the windows on her side of the G6. Here it comes!

The G6 exploded with noise, as Looper sprang into action. A full-fledged 5 alarm, frothing at the mouth, barking frenzy was underway! The American Dingo bounded up and down, back and forth, whacking her head against the windshield, nose smearing against the side window, decibel level as high and shrill as she could possibly maintain it.

Egads! Turn green for pity sake! The stoplight remained a stubborn cherry red. 15 feet outside Lupe’s window a magnificent bull elk looked up momentarily. What was all that racket? Whatever it was all about, the elk decided it didn’t concern him, and went back to casually munching whatever it was he was munching.

A mile later, sides still heaving, Lupe gasped.

What is the matter with you, SPHP? It takes a thermonuclear device to get your attention! An enormous giant deer was frozen in place right there outside the G6! Easy pickings! We could have been feasting on fresh, warm, bloody venison right now! Don’t tell me you didn’t see it!

Oh, I saw it alright, beyond a brown and white blur! How could I not see it with you about to bust a gut for 10 solid minutes? I thought that light would never turn green. We are in a Canadian National Park, Loop. I’m reasonably certain park officials would frown upon us devouring a freshly killed elk right next to the highway. Besides, what makes you think it would be that easy? That giant deer must have outweighed you 50 to 1!

You would have helped me, wouldn’t you, SPHP?

Of course. I could use a few years free room and board courtesy of the Canadian government. Shudder to think what might become of you, though, Loop.

Tangle Ridge had been a grand success yesterday, but over 3,800 feet of elevation gain had taken a toll. The giant deer frenzy must have sucked up whatever energy the Carolina Dog had recovered overnight. Yukon bound, the day turned into a relaxing road trip. Serenity returned as Loopster took to snoozing on her pink blankie.

That didn’t mean there couldn’t be a few stops at favorite places. Still needed to stretch now and then to keep the blood circulating.

**Overlander Falls**, Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia.

**Rearguard Falls**, Rearguard Falls Provincial Park, British Columbia

**Rearguard Falls** on the **Fraser River**.

Exploring near the **Goat River** rest stop.

The whole day got spent cruising NW on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16, all of it in British Columbia after crossing the border from Alberta early on. Shortly before reaching Fort Fraser, a tall plume of black smoke came into view on Lupe’s side of the highway. Traffic was backed up ahead.

Turned out to be a badly burnt out vehicle. Spontaneous combustion? Didn’t seem to be the result of a collision. By the time Lupe went by, the fire department had already put out the fire.

Sure hope the ole’ G6 doesn’t get any ideas, SPHP!

Yeah, that’ll be us someday, Looper. We’re bailing, though, at the first sign of trouble. If you ever sniff smoke, let me know right away.

Like that would help! I’m not expecting any rapid response miracles out of you, SPHP, after that giant deer episode.

Well, warn me anyway. I’m likely to be more excitable, if the G6 threatens to burst into flames.

At the **Dry Williams Lake** rest stop. A year ago forest fires had rained ash on the G6 here.

By late afternoon, Lupe was at Steelhead Park in Houston. Small, but exquisitely maintained. Sniffing the fragrant blossoms of all the colorful flowers was pure delight! Looper paid homage to the Dingo god, too.

**Steelhead Park** in Houston is always such a lovely break!

*So why doesn’t our yard look like this, SPHP? … Something to do with a brown thumb, Loop!*

8-8-19, 5:45 PM, Smithers, British Columbia – The long drive was over for now. Lupe reached Smithers near the Babine Mountains with sufficient daylight remaining to explore the town. She visited the Bulkley River, then took a stroll down Main Street looking for the Sausage Factory. A year ago she had met the former owners, Fred and Teresa Reitsma, at Five Finger Rapids on the Yukon River. They’d been on their way to Dawson City.

Fred and Teresa had invited Lupe to drop by the Sausage Factory, if she ever got to Smithers again. Now she was here, but too late! The Sausage Factory was closed for the day. Too bad. It looked like a ritzy place! The product line was of considerable interest to a famished American Dingo, too. Maybe Loop could return tomorrow?

By the **Bulkley River** in Smithers, British Columbia.

Outside the **Sausage Factory**, 1107 Main Street in Smithers, British Columbia.

*We’ll go in tomorrow, right, SPHP? … With any luck, Looper!*

Hudson Bay Mountain (8,494 ft.) was on the agenda tomorrow, a super prominent (5,000 ft.+) peak W of Smithers. Lupe wouldn’t be able to get to the true summit, which was a technical climb. The S summit wasn’t much lower, though, and was supposed to be accessible by a route that continued higher from Crater Lake.

By sunset, Lupe was at the Crater Lake trailhead, high on Hudson Bay Mountain’s S flank. A gorgeous evening! Things were looking good!

**Hudson Bay Mountain** (L) from **Astlais Mountain** exactly one year earlier on 8-8-18.

8-9-19, 6:58 AM, Hudson Bay Mountain, near the Crater Lake trailhead – The Carolina Dog sniffed aimlessly around the G6. Fog and mist. Hardly an inspiring start to the day. It was what it was. Reality rules. No point in this. Oh, well.

Down in Smithers a short while later, it was just an overcast day. Only the upper half of Hudson Bay Mountain was shrouded in clouds, but that was the half Lupe had hoped to visit. Some sort of front must have moved in overnight, nothing too dramatic, but enough to be a spoiler. Kind of a shame. Hudson Bay Mountain wasn’t the only candidate on Lupe’s list in this region.

However, didn’t seem to be much sense in waiting around. The Yukon was still a long way. Somewhere skies were blue! Without even waiting for the Sausage Factory to open, Lupe was on her way again.

20 minutes W of Smithers, SPHP drove into rain. 20 minutes W of Seeley Lake, the long drive on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 finally came to an end. Lupe was on her way N on Cassiar Hwy No. 37! The Alaska Highway in Yukon Territory was now only 724 km (450 miles) away. The rain stopped 40 km later. At 60 km, a patch of blue sky was seen ahead.

The weather improved as the G6 sped N. The scenery was gorgeous! Big lakes, mountains, and rivers, but Lupe seldom got a break from being cooped up. This was really wild territory, with hardly a trail anywhere as far as SPHP knew. Daunting. The only significant stop Lupe made was at the Stikine River, a favorite spot known to harbor squirrels in the forest near the riverbank.

Lunch break at the **Bell 1 rest stop** 117 km N of Meziadin Junction.

At the **Stikine River**, looking upstream toward the Cassiar Hwy bridge.

Looking downstream. The Grand Canyon of the Stikine starts not far from here.

8-9-19, 7:15 PM, Beaver Dam rest stop along Cassiar Hwy No. 37 – Only 75 km left to the Alaska Highway, but enough was enough. After a bite to eat, having spent practically the entire day on the road, Lupe finally got to do some exploring. N of the rest stop a dirt road curved slowly NW into the forest. Maybe it would lead to the beaver dam? None was in sight at the rest stop.

A gentle 0.33 mile uphill stroll led to a bit of a drop into a little valley. No beaver dam. So far, SPHP had found only mosquitoes. Lupe was doing better. A couple of squirrels had come to her attention, and now to her enormous satisfaction, she came across a succession of mud puddles covering the entire road. The American Dingo plopped herself right down in each one, clearly enjoying lapping up murky mineral water, and that oh, so wild and natural feeling one gets from being absolutely filthy.

Upon getting back to the Cassiar Hwy, SPHP picked as much trash out of the ditches as could be carried back to the rest stop for proper disposal.

We’re doing something wrong, Loop, when a load of trash, and a dingy Dingo are the highlight of the day!

8-10-19, 35ºF at the forest fire pond along Cassiar Hwy No. 37 – Chilly out, but at least the sky was blue! By the forest fire pond Lupe squinted into the brilliant glare of the morning sun. Going to be a great day! Another one on the road again, though. Lupe had already made a few tracks. This pond was what, a mere 30 km from the Yukon?

In the early morning sunlight by the forest fire pond.

8:08 AM, 39ºF, Yukon border, Cassiar Hwy No. 37 – Two days of pent-up energy could be contained no longer. The were-puppy attacked as soon as SPHP stepped out of the G6. Leaping, growling, nipping, tugging, tearing – all the usual were-puppy tactics.

You know, were-puppy, you are at least part of the reason I’m always in tatters!

Oh, you love it, SPHP! It’s all in good fun!

For some of us. I notice you don’t ever come away turning yellow and green and purple and blue.

Sorry ’bout that. Now and then I get carried away.

Apology accepted, provided you let go of my pants without ripping them any further. How about a romp in the woods along the Yukon border? Might be a squirrel out there somewhere!

A romp and a squirrel sounded good. After visiting the Yukon border sign, Lupe dashed off into the forest. A squirrel did materialize, making SPHP look like a genius.

Made it! At the **Yukon Territory border**!

Burning off some steam early on was a good thing. 2 km N of the Yukon border Cassiar Hwy No. 37 came to an end. SPHP turned W (L) onto the Alaska Highway. Hours slipped by, the only significant stop being a now traditional one at Teslin Lake.

**Teslin Lake** – a traditional Lupe stop along the Alaska Highway.

By **Teslin Lake**. **Dawson Peaks** (R). Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.

By early afternoon, Lupe had left the Alaska Highway at Jake’s Corner, and was on her way back into British Columbia heading S on Hwy 7 to Atlin. A lunch stop was made on a bluff overlooking the N end of Atlin Lake and Mount Minto (6,913 ft.).

**Atlin Lake** and **Mount Minto** (R) from a bluff Lupe discovered in 2018. Photo looks S.

Atlin Lake is long and narrow. It was still quite a way to the town of Atlin on its E shore. Shortly before Loopster got there, SPHP spotted a couple of float planes on Como Lake, a small lake W of Hwy 7. Might be fun to go take a look. The American Dingo was all for it!

Checking out the float planes at **Como Lake**.

*Oh, this does look like fun! We could go soaring over the mountains!*

None of the stops today had been terribly long. By mid-afternoon, Lupe was back in Atlin again! A year ago, she’d had a terrific time climbing Monarch Mountain SE of town.

At the Atlin marina, with **Monarch Mountain** in the background. Photo looks SE.

Being back in Atlin was exciting! Lupe went to the waterfront to see the gorgeous lake and the Tarahne, a century old excursion boat which had once upon a time brought tourists to Atlin.

*Oh, it’s wonderful to be back at fabulous **Atlin Lake** again! And with big plans, too!*

By the **Tarahne**, which decades ago had brought tourists to Atlin.

Off to the SW was the reason Lupe was here. Across Atlin Lake near the far W shore was a large island. Teresa Island was dominated by a single massive mountain which occupied virtually the entire island. In 2018, Lupe had seen Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.), not only from Atlin, but also from Monarch Mountain (4,728 ft.).

**Birch Mountain**, the whole reason Lupe had returned to Atlin. Photo looks SW.

For the past year, SPHP couldn’t help thinking that Birch Mountain had looked climbable from the N. Why, Lupe could do that! From the top there ought to be a fantastic view of the Llewellyn Glacier, which the Carolina Dog had glimpsed on the far horizon from Monarch Mountain. Birch Mountain had a peculiarity, too, which added to its overall appeal. With 1,393 meters (4,570 ft.) of prominence, Birch Mountain was the 2nd most prominent lake island in the entire world!

Until Lupe had run across Birch Mountain, it had never occurred to SPHP that she might be capable of summiting the 2nd best of any class of mountain in the whole world, yet here was an opportunity to do so in this remote NW corner of British Columbia, an area Lupe had been close to on her summer Dingo Vacations these past 3 years. The whole notion was so enticing!

Beyond the usual weather considerations, 2 significant problems needed to be addressed. First, how to get over to Teresa Island? Second, how to get above tree line? The lower portions of the island looked densely forested. Was there a trail? If not, was the forest open enough to simply amble up through it without too much difficulty? If Looper could get above tree line, the upper regions of the mountain appeared to be quite manageable. SPHP was confident she could reach the summit.

Time to get some answers! Across the street from the waterfront was a hotel. SPHP went in to see what might be learned, while Lupe waited in the G6. Hotel personnel directed SPHP to the Atlin Historical Society a few blocks away. The Historical Society turned out to be a museum. Inside, a couple of old ladies were busy answering tourist’s questions.

So what did you find out, SPHP?

Nothing yet, Loop. Didn’t even talk to them. Might be wrong, but I doubt they know anything at all about getting to Teresa Island or climbing Birch Mountain in there.

What now, then?

I think there was a sign when we came into town about kayak rentals. Not going to take on Atlin Lake in a kayak, but maybe they rent motor boats, too? Let’s go have a look.

Sure enough, there was a sign. Glacier View Cabins, canoe and kayak rentals, 12 km on Warm Bay Road.

Glacier View Cabins seemed worth checking out.

Driving S on Warm Bay Road, SPHP saw no sign of Glacier View Cabins. After going an extra 2 miles, SPHP turned around. On the way back N, there it was! A sign was near a steep driveway on the E side of the road, away from Atlin Lake. SPHP drove up only as far as the first couple of cabins before parking the G6. Lupe hopped out.

Nobody seemed to be around. Lupe and SPHP trudged farther up the steep driveway. At the upper end, a home sat perched on a slope with a fabulous view of Atlin Lake and the Llewellyn Glacier. SPHP rang the doorbell. No answer. Knocking and ringing again didn’t help. On the verge of giving up, Lupe and SPHP were still standing next to the door, when suddenly a man appeared carrying a basket of laundry.

Peter Sidler and his wife, Edith, who wasn’t home at the moment, own and operate Glacier View Cabins. Originally from Switzerland, Peter had been a resident of Atlin for the past 37 years. Although busy, he invited Lupe and SPHP into his home.

Peter had canoes and kayaks available for rent, but said Atlin Lake was too big and dangerous to cross over to Teresa Island in such craft. He also had a motor boat that would have worked, but it was rented out for the next 2 days. The following 2 days it was committed to participation in a search and rescue class.

Peter did share some good information. Over the years, he had climbed Birch Mountain multiple times. There were no trails on Teresa Island, and Peter was skeptical of SPHP’s proposed route from the N. He’d never tried that, but expected the willows would make it tough to get through the forest.

The best route was from the SE, where a major rock slide gets down to within 200 meters of the shore. Staying on the rocks made the climb much easier. Peter had once gone up the NW side of the mountain, but that was more difficult. Yes, Birch Mountain could be climbed in a single day, but it would be a long, hard one.

Although Peter couldn’t get Lupe to Teresa Island in the next few days, he knew who might be able to help. No regular water taxi services were available in Atlin, but Archie Wiggins had tremendous experience in the area and ran charter services with his large boat. Gary Hill might also have a suitable boat available. A call to Mr. Wiggins went unanswered. Probably out on the water with clients.

Armed with phone numbers and instructions on how to find both Wiggins and Hill, Lupe and SPHP departed after thanking Peter for all his help. Returning to Atlin, Lupe dropped by Wiggins’ house, but no one was there. At the Hill household, Gary’s wife, Bobbi, was out in the yard. She was friendly and summoned Gary. Again no luck. Gary’s boat was rented out, and wouldn’t be available for a whole week. He had no other options for Lupe.

That left Archie Wiggins, Lupe’s last and best bet. After dinner, Loop and SPHP returned to his house in Atlin. A vehicle was there now, but knocking on the door and walking around back produced no response. Hmm. Suddenly the front door opened. Barefoot and in an old T-shirt, Archie Wiggins strode out of the house. Peter and Bobbi had both called Archie leaving messages on Lupe’s behalf. So what did SPHP want?

Passage across Atlin Lake both to and from Teresa Island.

Wiggins and his boat were available tomorrow, but his response was surprising.

Don’t really know much about Birch Mountain. We don’t get much call for it. People seldom want to hike Birch. Usually they helicopter over there. Most people I deal with want to go either to Atlin Mountain (6,722 ft.) where there’s a trail, or Cathedral Mountain (6,965 ft.). Cathedral is a gorgeous mountain, a premier destination.

Not familiar with Cathedral. What does it cost to go there? Really came for Birch. Are you willing to take us to Teresa Island?

Are you alone? Just you and the dog?

Yes.

For drop off and pickup, it’s $1,000 to Cathedral. Really a wonderful trip, and a fabulous peak. To Birch, $175. That’s just to the NE shore. More if you want to be dropped off somewhere else.

$175?

Do you have inReach?

I suppose maybe we ought to, but no. I don’t.

We get a lot of intrepid individuals up here, who’ve done some amazing things. My customers know what they’re doing and come prepared. I’m not going to be responsible for anyone who’s going to put themselves in a situation.

With that, without waiting for a response, Archie Wiggins turned and went back into his house. The door banged shut behind him.

That went well.

Dingo feathers! I totally blew it, Looper! The moment he quoted $175 for Teresa Island, I should have asked him what time we could start in the morning. I only hesitated because I was wondering if I ought to ask him about going to the SE side of the island to the rock slide Peter mentioned. Could have done that once we were already on board crossing the lake. He would have been thrilled to charge us more, if we didn’t like the looks of the NE shore.

He still might have asked you about inReach.

Maybe, but maybe not, too. We might well have been on our way! It would have worked out. Wiggins knows what he’s doing, and he was our last and best chance. Can’t believe I let it all fall apart like that.

Too late now. Why don’t we take the helicopter, SPHP? That would be amazing!

That’s right! He did say most people helicopter to Birch.

Discovery Helicopters was close to where Hwy 7 reached Atlin. Right away SPHP ran into Matt, a young, professional helicopter pilot.

Birch Mountain? No problem. Alone? That’s too bad. Price is the same for up to 4 people. We fly you up to an upper ridge. Still a nice hike to the summit from there. Spectacular views! Just tell us what time you want us to meet you again for pickup back at the ridge. Too late in the day to go now, but we can get you there as early as you like in the morning.

Price? Well, 10 minutes flight time one way. Two round trip flights. That’s 40 minutes. Gotta figure some time for loading and unloading. $1,000 will do it. If someone else wants to fly beyond Birch about the same time, we could save you something on that, but don’t think we have anyone lined up at the moment. Drop in again in the morning, if you want to go. We’ll see if that’s changed, and work out the details. We’ll get Lupe up there!

SPHP thanked Matt and returned to the G6.

Are we really going in a helicopter, SPHP?

It’s a great deal with 4 paying passengers. $250.00 each, Canadian. Lucky American Dingoes get a nice discount at the current exchange rate. How are those royalties on your blog doing? Rolling in the dough by now, I hope?

Business has been, umm, steady, SPHP.

Still nothing, aye?

Zippo.

Any book advances or movie rights in play?

The agents just mutter something about “extremely limited market”. By the way, what does “infinitesimal” mean?

In this context, Loopster, it means “Ain’t gonna happen.” How about those endorsements? Anything happening there?

I haven’t really endorsed anything except playing in the mountains and T-bone steaks.

No ad revenue, either, I don’t suppose.

There might be, eventually, if we ever come up with an ad.

I see. Well, doubt I can rustle up 3 additional paying passengers in the next few hours. Atlin is a small place. Probably doesn’t make sense to hang out at the marina tomorrow trying to buy a random ride from some boater to Teresa Island, either, since we’ll actually need to get back, too.

No helicopter ride?

At $250, yes. Absolutely. What an experience! Not at $1,000. We can get more bang for our buck at another mountain. To tell you the truth, I’m sort of used to free, other than our normal travel expenses.

And that was that. Lupe’s Birch Mountain dreams had gone up in smoke. The Carolina Dog left Atlin heading back N on Hwy 7. Sundown found her at a little rest stop along the E shore of Atlin Lake. The lake was almost mirror smooth. The evening so calm, and a little sad.

6 days into what was meant to be Lupe’s grandest Dingo Vacation of 2019, Tangle Ridge had been her only major peakbagging success. Failure at Hudson Bay Mountain. Failure at Birch. She’d traveled the long road N to the Yukon, and wasn’t far from it now, yet it seemed the Carolina Dog was getting nowhere fast.

SPHP might be concerned, but Lupe wasn’t. Tomorrow was another day.