Day 11 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
Late morning, in the G6 heading W on the Silver Trail after leaving Keno City –
Our last chance to climb Mount Haldane (6032, ft.) again?
Probably, Loop. Now that you’ve been to Sourdough Hill (4,739 ft.) and Mount Hinton (6,752 ft.), who knows if we’ll ever come back to the Silver Trail?
You should have bought that bunkhouse in Keno City, SPHP! We could have spent every summer up here!
Yeah, I know. The bunkhouse was darling. We’re heading on, though, Looper. You’ve got adventures ahead all over the place if we hit ’em right. So how are you feeling? Up to Mount Haldane, or not?
If you can manage it, of course I want to go, SPHP! Mount Haldane was awesome! Not going to miss out on seeing it again, especially if this is my last chance ever.
After a late, late return last night, Lupe and SPHP had both slept like rocks. By the time a certain bleary-eyed Carolina Dog revived, the sun had already been shining brightly on a warm (50ºF!) Yukon morning. A leisurely breakfast at the Keno City campground chewed up most of what was left of the forenoon before Lupe had hit the Silver Trail again.
Driving W after leaving Keno City, SPHP hadn’t been able to forget the glorious view of Mount Haldane at sunset during yesterday’s descent of Mount Hinton. The dominant peak to the W, Mount Haldane had stood out highlighted by a golden glow. Rows of mysterious blue-gray Yukon peaks stretched far beyond it beneath a gray sky. Incredibly beautiful! And to think that Lupe had once been up there!
The American Dingo had climbed Mount Haldane exactly a year and a day ago. It was a splendid peak, with a good, known route culminating with a fabulous ridge hike and rocky scramble. With over 3,600 feet of elevation gain, Haldane would be an admittedly ambitious undertaking after the long trek yesterday, but no telling if Loop would ever be this close to the mountain again. This really might be her last opportunity. Just ahead by the Halfway Lakes, the Silver Trail would come within 2 miles of the trailhead.
1:30 PM, 58ºF at the Mount Haldane trailhead – Oh, yeah! It was on! Beneath a brilliant blue sky dotted with puffy white clouds, Lupe once again stood at the start of the trail to Mount Haldane. Another late start, but a fabulous day for it. Full of confidence, the Carolina Dog hit the sandy road that was part of a little triangle near the trailhead.
A few minutes brought Lupe to a junction at the E end of the triangle. A second sandy road came in from the SW (R) here, but Looper went the opposite direction, turning NE on a road which quickly lost the sandy characteristic. Mount Haldane came into view as the road curved N.
The road dipped leading into a low area. Must have been a lot drier in the Yukon this summer! Last year this part of the road had been mostly underwater. Trickling streams had fed a series of huge mud puddles. Today it was all completely dry.
For over 2 km, there wasn’t much to see except forest. Beyond the low region, the road rose and narrowed, becoming more of an ATV trail. It continued rather steeply for a long way before finally coming to a nice level stretch. Another good climb ensued, but this one wasn’t nearly as long as the first. A second level stretch again provided some relief.
The second level stretch led to a short, steep climb where the trail was badly scarred by a deeply eroded rut. This climb abruptly ended at a junction. To the NW (L), the ATV trail continued up Mount Haldane, but Lupe went E (R). Around a bend, the first of 2 ancient picnic tables the Carolina Dog had seen last year sat back among the bushes.
A single track path led up a small embankment to a flat area SE of the picnic table. The trees and bushes scattered across this flat region were mostly small. This was the first halfway decent viewpoint, and a good spot for a short break.
The view had changed since last year. In the broad valley to the NE, Lupe could see a large scorched area. Plumes of smoke were rising from fires still smoldering along the edge of the valley.
After a brief rest, Lupe returned to the junction. This time she took the route going NW. The ATV trail led ever higher at a moderate pace.
The American Dingo was now on a series of very long switchbacks going up the W side of Mount Haldane’s S ridge. Still in the forest, there were no more views until Loop reached the 3rd sharp turn. From here, a big saddle on Mount Haldane’s SW ridge was in sight.
The 4th sharp turn was the last. The second ancient picnic table sat right at the turn. Off to the S (R), a narrow footpath went only 20 feet through the trees to a second viewpoint on the brink of a steep slope. A fabulous view of the Halfway Lakes was on display.
The dense forest permitted little room at the second viewpoint, so Lupe continued on. The switchbacks were now over. The ATV trail headed NW going steadily higher. For a while yet, Loop was still in the forest, but soon she was getting close to tree line. The views really began to open up as the Carolina Dog made for the big saddle on the SW ridge.
Still a good trek, but before long Lupe was high enough to see the ATV trail going all the way up to the saddle. So easy! What a great route! As the views kept improving, it was fun to anticipate what Loopster would soon see on the other side of the ridge.
Blue skies were overhead when Lupe reached the saddle. A 15 mph breeze was blowing out of the NW, making things a bit chilly, but it must have been close to 60 ºF, so it really wasn’t bad at all. Naturally, Looper crossed the saddle right away for a look at the all the wonderful Yukon territory newly visible to the N.
Before her, a lower ridge extended a long way NW. The top of this ridge was bare, and looked like a fun place to explore. Sadly, Loop didn’t have time for all that if she ever expected to get to the top of Mount Haldane. Next to this ridge was the Bighorn Creek valley. Beyond both was the even larger valley of the South McQuesten River. More ridges and mountains stretched away as far as the eye could see.
After the big trek to Mount Hinton (6,752 ft.) yesterday, Lupe was ready for a genuine rest. She had already gained 2,700 feet since leaving the trailhead, and still had another 900 feet to go. Other than the wind, the big saddle was a good spot to relax for a bit. SPHP threw a jacket over her so she could doze comfortably in the sunlight.
The Dingo Nap proved necessarily brief. Clouds were closing in, posing a growing threat to the blue skies overhead. The intrepid American Dingo was quickly on her paws again ready to head higher. SPHP had scarcely begun to recover, but managed to plod after her.
The big saddle was as far as the ATV trail went. The rest of the ascent was a straightforward jaunt up Mount Haldane’s SW ridge, a super fun trek with amazing views. Virtually the entire route, which had 3 distinct phases, was visible from the big saddle.
The first phase was a 400 foot climb ENE up to a nearby high point. The ridgeline narrowed and grew rockier as Lupe progressed, but it was all just a trudge higher with no exposure or scrambling involved.
Frequently forced to rebuild blood oxygen levels, SPHP paused often to admire the views. The Carolina Dog did not seem to mind these delays. Despite them, she eventually did make it to the high point.
The second phase of the route was pure enjoyment. From the first high point, the ridge leveled out a great deal. It wasn’t completely level, but negotiated a series of small rises and dips. A bit of exposure to the S in some places was always easy to avoid. The ridgeline gradually curved N, bringing Lupe to the start of phase three, the final 600 foot climb to the true summit.
About 0.33 way up on the final ascent, 3 posts stood together on a small patch of flat ground. The climb steepened beyond this point. Even the last of the tundra began to disappear. The route turned into a rocky scramble, but not a difficult one. No exposure, no clinging to anything, just picking a way higher, usually following paths of lighter colored rocks disturbed by previous hikers.
The last little bit was the steepest, but the outcome was never in doubt. Despite feeling worn out, elation grew as Lupe got closer and closer to the top. Suddenly the American Dingo was there, once again standing at the edge of a precipice at the summit of Mount Haldane (6,032 ft.)!
It all looked the same. There was the tall metal pole with the odd disc at the top, the big cairn with a rock wall extension sheltering two boxes – one of new plastic, and a battered ancient metal one orange with rust. The same views of the NE subpeak beyond the incredibly deep North Star Creek drainage, the long N ridge, the look back down the familiar SW ridge, and all the fabulous surrounding mountains and ridges of the central Yukon everywhere one looked.
Mount Haldane had become an old and precious friend!
Loopster, congratulations, sweet puppy! Mount Haldane! Can you believe it? We’re actually here again! When we left last year, I never dreamed we would ever return! Isn’t it fantastic?
Yes, it is, SPHP! Although it would be even more fantastic, if you’d thought to bring along a Dingo cot. I’m feeling mighty tired now. Do you mind if I take a longer Dingo nap? I’ve completely used up the short one I took back at the big saddle. I’ll come and look at the views with you in a bit, OK?
Oh, sure Loop. Make yourself comfortable and take your time. We’ll be up here a while.
Easier said than done. Without the luxury of a Dingo cot available, a flat rock was about as comfortable as it got. Poor Lupe heaved a great sigh, and curled up.
While Loopster dozed, SPHP sat close by examining the contents of the registry boxes. The old orange box leaked, and was full of little more than garbage at this point. The plastic box contained 2 registry books.
Mount Haldane is a fairly popular peak. More entries in the registries than one might expect. SPHP looked entirely through one book without finding Lupe’s entry from 2018, but finally found it in the other one. SPHP added her name a second time to commemorate today’s ascent.
Far to the E, Mount Hinton was in view. Funny how things work out. Last year, it had been up in the clouds. Lupe hadn’t even seen Mount Hinton from Mount Haldane. Loop’s first ascent of Haldane was on August 14th, which turned out to be the same day she climbed Hinton this year. Coincidence. Not planned.
The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood finally did keep her promise to come look at the views with SPHP, but what she really wanted was to relax. Whenever she could, Loop went back to laying down and taking it easy.
Clouds kept sailing by. Most of the time, Mount Haldane was in shadow. One cloud dropped tiny snow pellets. It was cooler up here than back at the big saddle, but fortunately not as breezy.
In the end, a glance to the W told the tale. 7:45 PM. A glorious hour and 15 minutes on Mount Haldane now history. Hate to, but ….
Onward! Puppy, ho!
So the Carolina Dog left her old friend Mount Haldane (6,032 ft.) for a second time in a year and a day. The return was a long downhill march, easy and uneventful, provided one doesn’t count a sudden, brief attack on SPHP by the mysteriously rejuvenated were-puppy.
Sometimes what you already know is best. Can’t be too many peaks in the center of the Yukon that can claim to be frequented by American Dingoes, but splendid Mount Haldane is one that can. (End 10:40 PM)
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Mount Haldane, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-14-18)
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