Mount Haldane, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-15-19)

Day 11 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

Late morning, in the G6 heading W on the Silver Trail after leaving Keno City –

Our last chance to climb Mount Haldane (6032, ft.) again?

Probably, Loop.  Now that you’ve been to Sourdough Hill (4,739 ft.) and Mount Hinton (6,752 ft.), who knows if we’ll ever come back to the Silver Trail?

You should have bought that bunkhouse in Keno City, SPHP!  We could have spent every summer up here!

Yeah, I know.  The bunkhouse was darling.  We’re heading on, though, Looper.  You’ve got adventures ahead all over the place if we hit ’em right.  So how are you feeling?  Up to Mount Haldane, or not?

If you can manage it, of course I want to go, SPHP!  Mount Haldane was awesome!  Not going to miss out on seeing it again, especially if this is my last chance ever.

After a late, late return last night, Lupe and SPHP had both slept like rocks.  By the time a certain bleary-eyed Carolina Dog revived, the sun had already been shining brightly on a warm (50ºF!) Yukon morning.  A leisurely breakfast at the Keno City campground chewed up most of what was left of the forenoon before Lupe had hit the Silver Trail again.

Driving W after leaving Keno City, SPHP hadn’t been able to forget the glorious view of Mount Haldane at sunset during yesterday’s descent of Mount Hinton.  The dominant peak to the W, Mount Haldane had stood out highlighted by a golden glow.  Rows of mysterious blue-gray Yukon peaks stretched far beyond it beneath a gray sky.  Incredibly beautiful!  And to think that Lupe had once been up there!

Mount Haldane (L) shortly before sunset the previous evening.

The American Dingo had climbed Mount Haldane exactly a year and a day ago.  It was a splendid peak, with a good, known route culminating with a fabulous ridge hike and rocky scramble.  With over 3,600 feet of elevation gain, Haldane would be an admittedly ambitious undertaking after the long trek yesterday, but no telling if Loop would ever be this close to the mountain again.  This really might be her last opportunity.  Just ahead by the Halfway Lakes, the Silver Trail would come within 2 miles of the trailhead.

1:30 PM, 58ºF at the Mount Haldane trailhead –  Oh, yeah!  It was on!  Beneath a brilliant blue sky dotted with puffy white clouds, Lupe once again stood at the start of the trail to Mount Haldane.  Another late start, but a fabulous day for it.  Full of confidence, the Carolina Dog hit the sandy road that was part of a little triangle near the trailhead.

Loop all smiles ready to set out for Mount Haldane! Photo looks E.

A few minutes brought Lupe to a junction at the E end of the triangle.  A second sandy road came in from the SW (R) here, but Looper went the opposite direction, turning NE on a road which quickly lost the sandy characteristic.  Mount Haldane came into view as the road curved N.

Mount Haldane (Center) comes into view. Photo looks N.

The road dipped leading into a low area.  Must have been a lot drier in the Yukon this summer!  Last year this part of the road had been mostly underwater.  Trickling streams had fed a series of huge mud puddles.  Today it was all completely dry.

In the low area. Last year this stretch had been mostly underwater.

For over 2 km, there wasn’t much to see except forest.  Beyond the low region, the road rose and narrowed, becoming more of an ATV trail.  It continued rather steeply for a long way before finally coming to a nice level stretch.  Another good climb ensued, but this one wasn’t nearly as long as the first.  A second level stretch again provided some relief.

The second level stretch led to a short, steep climb where the trail was badly scarred by a deeply eroded rut.  This climb abruptly ended at a junction.  To the NW (L), the ATV trail continued up Mount Haldane, but Lupe went E (R).  Around a bend, the first of 2 ancient picnic tables the Carolina Dog had seen last year sat back among the bushes.

On the first decaying picnic table. Mount Haldane (Center). Photo looks N.

A single track path led up a small embankment to a flat area SE of the picnic table.  The trees and bushes scattered across this flat region were mostly small.  This was the first halfway decent viewpoint, and a good spot for a short break.

The view had changed since last year.  In the broad valley to the NE, Lupe could see a large scorched area.  Plumes of smoke were rising from fires still smoldering along the edge of the valley.

Smoke (L) rises from the recently scorched valley to the NE.
Mount Haldane from the viewpoint near the first picnic table. Photo looks NW up the Fortune Creek drainage.

After a brief rest, Lupe returned to the junction.  This time she took the route going NW.  The ATV trail led ever higher at a moderate pace.

Continuing up the ATV trail after leaving the first picnic table behind. Photo looks NW.

The American Dingo was now on a series of very long switchbacks going up the W side of Mount Haldane’s S ridge.  Still in the forest, there were no more views until Loop reached the 3rd sharp turn.  From here, a big saddle on Mount Haldane’s SW ridge was in sight.

At the 3rd sharp turn after the first picnic table. The ATV trail eventually leads up to the big saddle (R of Center) visible up on Mount Haldane’s SW ridge. Photo looks NW.

The 4th sharp turn was the last.  The second ancient picnic table sat right at the turn.  Off to the S (R), a narrow footpath went only 20 feet through the trees to a second viewpoint on the brink of a steep slope.  A fabulous view of the Halfway Lakes was on display.

By the second ruinous picnic table located at the 4th sharp turn. Photo looks E.
Halfway Lakes (Center). Wareham Lake (R) in the distance. Photo looks S.

The dense forest permitted little room at the second viewpoint, so Lupe continued on.  The switchbacks were now over.  The ATV trail headed NW going steadily higher.  For a while yet, Loop was still in the forest, but soon she was getting close to tree line.  The views really began to open up as the Carolina Dog made for the big saddle on the SW ridge.

About to leave the 4th and final sharp turn. Photo looks WNW.
Close to tree line heading for the big saddle. Photo looks NW.

Still a good trek, but before long Lupe was high enough to see the ATV trail going all the way up to the saddle.  So easy!  What a great route!  As the views kept improving, it was fun to anticipate what Loopster would soon see on the other side of the ridge.

Yes, it was a long trek in the forest, but we’re at the fun part now! Mount Haldane just keeps getting better and better from here! Photo looks NNW.
Getting there! Photo looks NW.

Blue skies were overhead when Lupe reached the saddle.  A 15 mph breeze was blowing out of the NW, making things a bit chilly, but it must have been close to 60 ºF, so it really wasn’t bad at all.  Naturally, Looper crossed the saddle right away for a look at the all the wonderful Yukon territory newly visible to the N.

Before her, a lower ridge extended a long way NW.  The top of this ridge was bare, and looked like a fun place to explore.  Sadly, Loop didn’t have time for all that if she ever expected to get to the top of Mount Haldane.  Next to this ridge was the Bighorn Creek valley.  Beyond both was the even larger valley of the South McQuesten River.  More ridges and mountains stretched away as far as the eye could see.

Made it to the big saddle! The ridge beyond me is still part of Mount Haldane. The Bighorn Creek valley is on the R. Photo looks NW.

After the big trek to Mount Hinton (6,752 ft.) yesterday, Lupe was ready for a genuine rest.  She had already gained 2,700 feet since leaving the trailhead, and still had another 900 feet to go.  Other than the wind, the big saddle was a good spot to relax for a bit.  SPHP threw a jacket over her so she could doze comfortably in the sunlight.

Squeezing in a Dingo Nap up on the big saddle. Bighorn Creek valley (Center). Photo looks NW.

The Dingo Nap proved necessarily brief.  Clouds were closing in, posing a growing threat to the blue skies overhead.  The intrepid American Dingo was quickly on her paws again ready to head higher.  SPHP had scarcely begun to recover, but managed to plod after her.

The big saddle was as far as the ATV trail went.  The rest of the ascent was a straightforward jaunt up Mount Haldane’s SW ridge, a super fun trek with amazing views.  Virtually the entire route, which had 3 distinct phases, was visible from the big saddle.

The first phase was a 400 foot climb ENE up to a nearby high point.  The ridgeline narrowed and grew rockier as Lupe progressed, but it was all just a trudge higher with no exposure or scrambling involved.

Frequently forced to rebuild blood oxygen levels, SPHP paused often to admire the views.  The Carolina Dog did not seem to mind these delays.  Despite them, she eventually did make it to the high point.

Loopster starting for the first high point (R). Mount Haldane’s true summit is at (Center). Photo looks NE.
Arriving at the first high point. Photo looks NW.

The second phase of the route was pure enjoyment.  From the first high point, the ridge leveled out a great deal.  It wasn’t completely level, but negotiated a series of small rises and dips.  A bit of exposure to the S in some places was always easy to avoid.  The ridgeline gradually curved N, bringing Lupe to the start of phase three, the final 600 foot climb to the true summit.

On the level section, with a view of the final climb ahead. Photo looks NE.
Mount Hinton (R of Center) in sunlight on the horizon. Lupe had been there less than 24 hours ago! Photo looks E.
Getting close to phase 3! Photo looks NNE.
Looking down the Fortune Creek drainage. The Silver Trail (the highway to Keno City) is visible beyond all the ponds and lakes in the Haldane Creek valley. Photo looks SE.
At the base of the 600 foot climb to the top. Photo looks N.
Looking back along the mostly level section. Halfway Lakes (L). Photo looks SSW.

About 0.33 way up on the final ascent, 3 posts stood together on a small patch of flat ground.  The climb steepened beyond this point.  Even the last of the tundra began to disappear.  The route turned into a rocky scramble, but not a difficult one.  No exposure, no clinging to anything, just picking a way higher, usually following paths of lighter colored rocks disturbed by previous hikers.

Starting up the third and final phase of the ridge. The posts are up at the nearby high point seen on the R. Photo looks N.
Looking back from the 3 posts. The level part of the SW ridge is seen at (Center). The big saddle where Lupe left the ATV trail is the major notch in the ridgeline at (R). Photo looks SSW.
Summit alert! Come on! We’ll be there in no time! Photo looks N.

The last little bit was the steepest, but the outcome was never in doubt.  Despite feeling worn out, elation grew as Lupe got closer and closer to the top.  Suddenly the American Dingo was there, once again standing at the edge of a precipice at the summit of Mount Haldane (6,032 ft.)!

At the summit with a sunlit subpeak in the background. Photo looks NE.

It all looked the same.  There was the tall metal pole with the odd disc at the top, the big cairn with a rock wall extension sheltering two boxes – one of new plastic, and a battered ancient metal one orange with rust.  The same views of the NE subpeak beyond the incredibly deep North Star Creek drainage, the long N ridge, the look back down the familiar SW ridge, and all the fabulous surrounding mountains and ridges of the central Yukon everywhere one looked.

Mount Haldane had become an old and precious friend!

By the tall pole and the summit cairn. Part of Mayo Lake (L of Center) in the distance. Photo looks SE.
The registry boxes.
Looking back down the SW ridge. Halfway Lakes (L). Photo looks S.
The NE subpeak. Photo looks NE.

Loopster, congratulations, sweet puppy!  Mount Haldane!  Can you believe it?  We’re actually here again!  When we left last year, I never dreamed we would ever return!  Isn’t it fantastic?

Yes, it is, SPHP!  Although it would be even more fantastic, if you’d thought to bring along a Dingo cot.  I’m feeling mighty tired now.  Do you mind if I take a longer Dingo nap?  I’ve completely used up the short one I took back at the big saddle.  I’ll come and look at the views with you in a bit, OK?

Oh, sure Loop.  Make yourself comfortable and take your time.  We’ll be up here a while.

Easier said than done.  Without the luxury of a Dingo cot available, a flat rock was about as comfortable as it got.  Poor Lupe heaved a great sigh, and curled up.

Catching a few winks at the summit. Mount Haldane’s N ridge (Center). The South McQuesten River valley is in the background. Photo looks N.

While Loopster dozed, SPHP sat close by examining the contents of the registry boxes.  The old orange box leaked, and was full of little more than garbage at this point.  The plastic box contained 2 registry books.

Mount Haldane is a fairly popular peak.  More entries in the registries than one might expect.  SPHP looked entirely through one book without finding Lupe’s entry from 2018, but finally found it in the other one.  SPHP added her name a second time to commemorate today’s ascent.

Far to the E, Mount Hinton was in view.  Funny how things work out.  Last year, it had been up in the clouds.  Lupe hadn’t even seen Mount Hinton from Mount Haldane.  Loop’s first ascent of Haldane was on August 14th, which turned out to be the same day she climbed Hinton this year.  Coincidence.  Not planned.

Mount Hinton (Center). Photo looks E with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood finally did keep her promise to come look at the views with SPHP, but what she really wanted was to relax.  Whenever she could, Loop went back to laying down and taking it easy.

Looper up and at ’em again. Photo looks SE.
A mining operation far to the NNE, one of the few blemishes on the Yukon wilderness.
Looking way down into the upper end of the North Star Creek drainage. Photo looks NE.
Back to taking life easy. Photo looks SE.
I’m meditating on the glories of Mount Haldane. Don’t bug me, SPHP! Photo looks NNE.

Clouds kept sailing by.  Most of the time, Mount Haldane was in shadow.  One cloud dropped tiny snow pellets.  It was cooler up here than back at the big saddle, but fortunately not as breezy.

Back in action by the summit cairn. Photo looks NW.
Exploring out toward Haldane’s N ridge. Photo looks N.
The whole summit region. Photo looks SE.
A Dingo’s eye view of the little lakes and ponds down by Haldane Creek. Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.
Sweet Yukon dreams, Lupe! Mount Hinton (L) & Mount Albert (6,515 ft.) (R).

In the end, a glance to the W told the tale.  7:45 PM.  A glorious hour and 15 minutes on Mount Haldane now history.  Hate to, but ….

Looking NW with help from the telephoto lens.

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Last moments at the summit. Photo looks NNE.
Starting down the SW ridge. Photo looks SSW.
At the big saddle again, looking back at Mount Haldane. Photo looks NE.

So the Carolina Dog left her old friend Mount Haldane (6,032 ft.) for a second time in a year and a day.  The return was a long downhill march, easy and uneventful, provided one doesn’t count a sudden, brief attack on SPHP by the mysteriously rejuvenated were-puppy.

Sometimes what you already know is best.  Can’t be too many peaks in the center of the Yukon that can claim to be frequented by American Dingoes, but splendid Mount Haldane is one that can.  (End 10:40 PM)

Mount Haldane, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-15-19

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Mount Haldane, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-14-18)

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