Peakbagging – Page 8 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Mount Lorne, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-11-19)

Day 7 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

On the road again! When was this ever going to end? Bright and early, Lupe had left the Hitchcock rest area on Atlin Lake, hitting the road N. Soon she was back in the Yukon. It was already mid-morning by the time SPHP pulled into the Robinson Roadhouse Historic Site rest area N of Carcross. The Carolina Dog was surprised when SPHP started getting the pack ready.

The **Robinson Roadhouse Historic Site** is on the W side of the S Klondike Hwy between Whitehorse and Carcross.

Why the pack, SPHP? We’ve already been to the roadhouse once before. It’s not far beyond these trees W of the rest area, if I remember right.

Oh, we’re not going to the roadhouse again, Loop. Wasn’t that much to it. We might not have gotten across Atlin Lake yesterday to take on Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.), but we’ve got other tricks up our sleeve. Supposed to be a trail up Mount Lorne (6,629 ft.) not far from here, so we’re going to give that a shot instead.

I remember Mount Lorne, SPHP! We saw it twice last year, didn’t we? Once from Grey Mountain up by Whitehorse, and then again the next day from Nares Mountain down by Carcross. Kind of a big, lumpy ridge with a high point toward the E, isn’t it? Higher than anything else near it.

Yeah, that’s it, Loopster. I understand it’s possible to make a loop going up and down different ends of the ridge. So never a dull moment, aye? Should be a fun time!

10:15 AM, 51ºF, S Klondike Hwy at Bear Creek a mile S of the Robinson Roadhouse Historic Site – This was supposed to be it, the trailhead for Mount Lorne. Dirt parking areas were on both sides of the highway on the S side of Bear Creek. SPHP parked in the E lot. No one around, and no posted information at all, but Lupe quickly discovered a trail running E along the N bank of the stream.

*This way, SPHP!* On the N bank of **Bear Creek**. Photo looks E.

Looking W back toward the S Klondike Hwy.

200 feet from the highway, the trail turned NE into the forest. Lupe soon passed private property on the L (N). The trail then wound generally E for a little way before rejoining Bear Creek.

In the forest after leaving Bear Creek behind. Photo looks E.

Rejoining **Bear Creek** 10 minutes later. Photo looks E.

This time Lupe followed Bear Creek E for 10 or 15 minutes before the trail veered off to the NE a second time. The trail never did cross the stream, and did not return to it again.

Miss Hot Paws cooling off in **Bear Creek**. Photo looks ENE.

For what seemed like a long way, the trail wound ENE. Lupe gradually gained elevation. Finally, upon reaching a grove of aspens, the trail steepened considerably. Partway up, SPHP paused to rest.

A young man and woman appeared at the base of the slope, and soon caught up. They were from Whitehorse, and had some timely advice. Not much farther ahead at the top of this rise, the trail would divide. They had been here a week ago intent on climbing Mount Lorne, and had gone L (N) at the intersection, misled by blue and orange ribbons marking that route. A 10 km trek had ensued bringing them back to the S Klondike Hwy far from their vehicle, but never anywhere close to Mount Lorne.

Now they were back, once again intent upon getting to Mount Lorne. Naturally, their advice was to go R (E) at the junction. Lupe had already seen quite a few blue and orange ribbons tied to trees and branches along the way, so it was easy to understand their previous error. SPHP thanked the hikers as they set off again, now taking the lead.

It really wasn’t much farther up to the junction. The two hikers were still there taking a break when Lupe arrived. Staying to the R as advised, the American Dingo carried on, retaking the lead.

The trail continued E for a long way. Beyond the intersection it was level for a short distance, but soon began to climb again. Lupe gained a fair amount of elevation before the trail finally leveled out a second time. On and on it went. Loop was glad when the trail crossed a tributary of Bear Creek, the last water on the way to Mount Lorne.

On a flat stretch beyond the junction. Photo looks SE.

Last water along the way, a tributary of Bear Creek.

Due to the forest, it was difficult to get a sense of how much progress the Carolina Dog was making. All that was clear was that Lupe was now on the S side of a much higher ridge to the N (L). Somewhere ahead there was supposed to be an old cabin. It was important not to miss the cabin, because that was where the most direct route to Mount Lorne splits off from the trail Looper was on.

As Lupe continued farther and farther E, SPHP became concerned. How close did this trail actually come to the cabin? The cabin wouldn’t have to be very far off into the forest to be easy to miss. Had Loop already passed it without noticing it?

*What a worrywart! The cabin’s right here, SPHP!*

Not to worry! Can’t miss it! The old cabin proved to be right next to the N (L) side of the trail. Sure didn’t amount to much. Small and rustic in the extreme, the roof had caved in decades ago. At least Lupe hadn’t gone by it. On the E side, a distinct pawpath curved around to the back side of the cabin before turning N up the slope leading to the big ridge. That had to be the most direct route up Mount Lorne (6,629 ft.), the one the American Dingo had been looking for.

On the E side of the cabin. The pawpath goes off to the R, then curves L back behind N wall before heading N up to Mount Lorne’s SW ridge. Photo looks NW.

The two hikers from Whitehorse weren’t far behind. They reappeared while Lupe was still inspecting the old cabin. Just S of the cabin, a small clearing overlooked the Bear Creek valley, the only viewpoint along the entire route thus far. The hikers paused here for another short break. For a few minutes, Lupe joined them.

Looking SW from the viewpoint near the old cabin.

Loopster’s ascent of Mount Lorne was about to begin in earnest! Bidding her new friends adieu, Lupe returned to the cabin. Crossing the main trail, she followed the pawpath around the cabin and headed higher.

It was a big climb up to the ridge. Steep, but no more than that. No rough ground or any scrambling at all. The forest began to thin out. By the time Lupe got to tree line, the two hikers had caught up. Outpacing SPHP, they retook the lead. The top of Mount Lorne came into view, still 2 miles off to the NE.

On the side path from the cabin going up to the big ridge.

*Finally getting somewhere! There’s **Mount Lorne** (R)!* Photo looks NE.

By the time the Carolina Dog was closing in on the ridgeline, she was not only above tree line, but essentially above bush line, too. Tremendous views of the glorious Yukon in all directions now! The last part of this first big climb was the steepest. A cairn sat along the edge of the ridge where Lupe finally popped up onto it.

Reaching **Mount Lorne’s SW ridge**. The cairn marking where the trail came up is seen on the L. Photo looks SW.

Loop had made it up onto Mount Lorne’s SW ridge. The ridge was broad, rounded, and only sparsely vegetated. As near as SPHP could figure it, the American Dingo was now at about 4,800 feet, which meant she still needed to gain more than 1,800 feet to reach the summit.

Quite a bit of the ridge leading to the summit was in already in sight. As expected, Lupe faced a long, bumpy, but seemingly not overly-rugged trek to the top.

The route ahead from the SW ridge close to where Lupe first reached it. **Mount Lorne’s summit** visible at (R). Photo looks NNE.

Lupe’s new friends were still there when she first reached the SW ridge. SPHP chatted with them briefly before they took off again. This pattern repeated several times as everyone continued toward the summit, but in the end SPHP couldn’t keep up. The two hiker’s lead grew steadily, as SPHP toiled up the mountain behind them. Before long, Lupe no longer caught up with them during their rest breaks, but they often remained in sight working their way up to the next high point.

The trail became intermittent, vanishing or becoming faint during level stretches, but usually reappearing again on the next leg higher.

Approaching the first bump higher along the ridge. Photo looks NE.

Beyond the first hill, the ridge began to narrow a bit. Photo looks NNE.

Looking back down the **SW ridge** (L of Center) from the first hill. Photo looks SW.

The **first major high point** (L) isn’t much farther now. **Mount Lorne’s summit** (R) is straight up from Lupe. Photo looks NE.

Lupe climbed and climbed, usually going up in big spurts separated by relatively level stretches. The ridge narrowed in places, but was never tricky until the American Dingo got close to the first major high point.

What might be considered Mount Lorne’s W summit tops out at about 6,400 feet, not even 250 feet less than the true summit, still a mile due E. Approaching the W summit, the ridge narrowed considerably. Ahead the terrain was very rocky and steep, especially toward the S.

Approaching the **W summit** (L). **True summit** (R). Photo looks ENE.

*Suddenly looking a bit gnarly, SPHP!* Photo looks ENE.

Trying to go straight up the ridgeline looked inadvisable. Staying toward the NW, Lupe started up. Careful! For the first time, the ascent became a scramble, a rather steep one with a bit of exposure in spots. Loopster followed narrow lanes higher. Some of the rock was loose, but exposed bedrock was sometimes present as well, providing firm pawholds.

Traversing much farther along the increasingly steep NW slope soon looked inadvisable, too. Lupe was forced to head almost straight up. Happily, it looked like she was already far enough to get past the worst of the ridgeline. Hopefully the situation would now be a lot better, if she could just get back up to it again.

Looking back during the climb toward the W summit. Photo looks SW.

Better not get too much steeper! Photo looks S.

The last bit of the climb to the ridgeline was the steepest. Fortunately, most of the rock near the top was firm. Made it! Lupe was back on top. A short stroll along a narrow rocky part, and the ridge began to broaden out again. Nice and smooth! The worst was over.

A post-sized 2 foot high piece of bleached wood stuck up out of a cairn at the high point of Mount Lorne’s W summit. The large summit region curved away to the N, eventually leading down Mount Lorne’s NW ridge, if one continued that way far enough. To the E, in the direction of the true summit, a rounded slope dropped away out of sight.

*So far, so good! We’ve made it to **Mount Lorne’s W summit**.* Photo looks N.

**Mount Lorne’s NW ridge** (Center). **Cowley Lakes** (L). Photo looks NW.

**Mount Lorne’s true summit** (R) from the W summit. **Marsh Lake** (L) in the distance. Photo looks ENE.

Ugh! While there had been a few minor drops along the way, they had scarcely amounted to anything. However, going far enough E to peer down the slope leading to the true summit now revealed a grassy saddle a good 300 feet lower. No way to avoid it, Lupe was going to have to lose all that elevation. The down slope was all rocky. Worse yet, the climb waiting on the far side of the saddle looked steep, perhaps difficult.

With no other option, Looper set off down the rocky slope.

Heading down to the saddle leading to the **true summit** (Center). Photo looks E.

*Come on, SPHP! The other side isn’t that bad.* Loop nearing the saddle’s low point. Photo looks E.

Regaining the elevation Lupe had lost going down to the saddle wasn’t nearly as difficult as it had appeared from the W summit. Sort of a steep trudge higher, but that was it. Before long, the American Dingo was at the top of the next hill, just as high as she had been at the W summit.

Almost to the top of the next hill. Photo looks E.

*As high as ever!* Looking back at the W summit. Photo looks W.

Looking E, the ridge narrowed somewhat again, but it appeared Looper now had a straight shot to the true summit! A little deceiving. One more drop was ahead, but it proved to be relatively minor, on the order of 50 to 75 feet. Wasn’t long before the American Dingo was at the base of the final climb, which didn’t look that bad.

**Mount Lorne’s W summit** (R). The **SW ridge** where Lupe had first reached it (far L) is in sunlight far below. Photo looks WSW.

The final climb to the top. Photo looks E.

**Mount Lorne’s true summit** (L). The **S ridge** (R). Photo looks SE.

The **S ridge** looked rougher than the way Lupe had come up. Photo looks SSE.

Nothing to it! Lupe just **W of the true summit**. Photo looks E.

The two hikers were relaxing S of the summit cairn when Lupe and SPHP finally reached the top of Mount Lorne. Introductions were now made. Lupe’s new friends were Greg Johannson and Svetlana Koptyeva. Greg was a lawyer (public defender) originally from Toronto, and Svetlana was a law clerk from the Ukraine. They had both moved to Whitehorse about a year ago, and were totally enthusiastic about how magnificent and wonderful the Yukon is.

With new friends Greg and Svetlana by the summit cairn. Photo looks SE.

While Lupe and SPHP were still visiting with Greg and Svetlana, another man and a young woman reached the summit. They had come up the same way, and must not have been far behind. For a while, everyone milled around the summit area chatting and enjoying the views.

Looking back at Lupe’s route up. **W summit** (Center). **SW ridge** (L). The **NW ridge** (R) is also in view. Photo looks W.

*Well, we made it to the top of our first magnificent Yukon Territory peak of 2019! So, do I look intrepid enough yet, SPHP?* Photo looks E.

**Summit of Mount Lorne** from a little farther E. The **SW ridge** Lupe came up is seen on the L. Photo looks W.

Greg, Svetlana, and Loop. Photo looks W.

*And to think that this only half of it! Now we’re going to have to go all the way back down!*

Checking out **Mount Lorne’s S ridge** (foreground), Lupe’s return route if she wanted to fully explore the whole loop it was possible to make. Photo looks SE.

Half an hour after Lupe reached the summit, Greg and Svetlana were getting ready to leave. Before departing, they stopped to pose with Lupe. They also had a question. Would Lupe like to meet up with them again? Greg and Svetlana were going to be camping with friends and family near the visitor center in Tombstone Territorial Park on August 22nd. The next day they were planning to take the trail to Grizzly Lake and camp out there. They kindly invited Lupe to join them!

That sounded terrific! The American Dingo already had plans to go through Tombstone Territorial Park on this Dingo Vacation. In fact she had been to Grizzly Lake once before, and hoped to return and go even further this year. Teaming up with Greg and Svetlana would be a blast! Whether the timing would actually work out or not wasn’t clear at this point, but if it did, Lupe and SPHP would be thrilled to join them.

With **Svetlana** and **Greg** shortly before they departed, but perhaps not for the last time! Photo looks W.

Greg and Svetlana left, apparently intent upon making the big loop, since they headed down the S ridge. The first part of the decent was easy, but Lupe saw them pause to consider the best route forward where the S ridge became rugged. The other man and young woman started down 10 minutes later, going the same way.

Lupe and SPHP were alone at the top of Mount Lorne. Although some patches of blue remained, by now the sky was mostly cloudy. Visibility wasn’t as good as it had been earlier in the day. Even below the cloud deck, the air was hazy, the views indistinct.

Despite the murkiness, Lupe could still make out some mountains she had been to before. Near Whitehorse, Grey Mountain (4,901 ft.) was in sight off to the NW. Nares Mountain (5,833 ft.) was far to the S. Beyond Nares was Montana Mountain (7,213 ft.). Lupe hadn’t climbed that one yet. Even farther away, Mount Minto (6,913 ft.) was barely visible to the SE. Lupe hadn’t climbed Minto, either, but she had seen it across Atlin Lake just this morning.

Parts of some big lakes could be seen too, including Marsh Lake, Little Atlin, Tagish, and Bennett.

**Grey Mountain** *(aka Canyon Mountain)* (Center) near Whitehorse. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

**Nares Mountain** (Center), with **Montana Mountain** (R of Center) on the horizon. Photo looks S.

An hour after she’d arrived, Lupe left the summit of Mount Lorne. She headed for the S ridge like everyone else.

About ready to head down the S ridge. **Marsh Lake** in the distance. Photo looks SE.

The S ridge quickly turned rough. During the ascent only the scramble up to the W summit had been this tricky. For a considerable distance the ridgeline was mostly too narrow and rugged to stay right up on it. Lupe had to scramble along one side or the other, but was seldom forced too far below the top. At first it was best to stay toward the E, later on the going was easier toward the W.

As usual, SPHP’s progress was extremely slow on this type of terrain. The sure-pawed Carolina Dog had plenty of time to enjoy the views.

Looking down the **W side of the S ridge**. Photo looks S.

The **valley SW of the summit** (Center). The **SW ridge** Lupe had gone up is seen on the R. Photo looks SW.

Scrambling along the **W side of the S ridge**. Photo looks S.

A glance back up from a nice wide spot. Photo looks NW.

On the E side of the ridge now. Getting sunny again! Photo looks S.

Making progress! The rough stuff ends at the high point on the R. Photo looks SSE.

A look back at the true summit. Photo looks NNW.

Last of the rocky terrain. Photo looks SSE.

Took forever, but at last Lupe stood atop the final rocky high point along the S ridge. Looking back, she still wasn’t all that far from the summit.

On the **last rocky high point of the S ridge**. **Mount Lorne’s summit** (Center). Photo looks NNW.

The **S face of Mount Lorne’s W ridge** from the **true summit** (R) to the **W summit** (L). Photo looks NW.

The sky had cleared somewhat. The haze had diminished. As Lupe left the rocky terrain and started down a long, broad slope, before her the incredible Yukon wilderness basked in a serene evening glow.

Leaving the rocky region. Photo looks SSW.

Everyone else was long gone. Lupe hadn’t seen anyone for a while, and wouldn’t see them again. Down, down, down the long slope. Progress was rapid. Even SPHP was stepping lively. Good thing, because the Carolina Dog still had a long way to go.

The plan was to follow the S ridge as far S as necessary to reach an ATV trail. The ATV trail was supposed to link up with the same trail that went past the old cabin Lupe had left so long ago. Turning W too soon meant trouble, a long bushwhack in the wilderness.

The plan was to stay to the L following the high ground S until coming to an ATV trail. Turning W (R) too soon was asking for trouble. Photo looks S.

Even knowing this, SPHP blew it. Lupe had lost a tremendous amount of elevation, and had already bypassed the first ridge leading SW, when she came to a ravine draining SW from the high ground. Looking down the ravine, SPHP could see a road way down there.

That must be it! The ATV trail! Lupe headed down the ravine, but when she got to the road, it wasn’t an ATV trail at all, just a strip of exposed dirt. No sign of any kind of road or trail anywhere. Not good! SPHP tried to lead Lupe SE, taking a shortcut back up to the high ground where she could continue S.

Not gonna happen. The American Dingo was already almost all the way back down to tree line. The vast slope to the SE was densely covered with chest high bushes. No breaks between them. Impossible! Loopster either had to retrace her route all the way back up the ravine or face the wilderness.

Onward! Puppy, ho! Nope. Not going back. Giving up on returning to the high ground, Lupe turned W, the most direct route back to the old cabin. Exactly where she went, SPHP can no longer say. Looper crossed the ravine she had come down expecting to find the road, but lower down where it was deeper than before. She then forced a way up onto the first big ridge that went SW from the S ridge she had abandoned.

Crossing this ridge, Lupe began a long plunge down through thick forest losing more elevation than SPHP thought possible. Finally reaching the valley SW of Mount Lorne’s summit, she crossed it and a tributary of Bear Creek, too. Still heading W, she traversed a long forested slope while gradually regaining some of the elevation she had lost. Once in a while there were animal trails, or a little open ground, but for the most part it was a long struggle battling the wilderness.

Getting late. The last time Lupe had a view, rain showers were off to the W. Even with the long twilight of the far N, light was fading.

Hurry, hurry! Looper couldn’t afford to miss the path! Had to get to it before it was too dark to notice. Finally, there it was. This had to be it didn’t it? Lupe was standing on some sort of trail. Turning S, the Carolina Dog followed the path lower.

Lupe must have regained more elevation than SPHP realized. It was a long way down, but suddenly there was the old cabin, and next to it the main trail. Still miles back to the S Klondike Hwy, but with the help of a flashlight the rest was easy.

Even so, weariness eventually demanded a break. Dumping the pack, SPHP flopped down flat on the ground. Lupe snuggled up beside, still sniffing the air and listening. Silence. Overhead, a tiny patch of sky was barely light enough to contrast with a dark circle of surrounding spires – the jet black tops of spruce trees.

What a day! What a place! Mount Lorne had been awesome! The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Circle was really here again. So good to be back in Canada’s fabled Yukon Territory! (End 8-23-29, 12:36 AM)

With Svetlana Koptyeva and Gregory Johannson, **Mount Lorne**, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-11-19

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Grey Mountain near Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, Canada (9-9-18)

Nares Mountain, Yukon Territory, Canada (9-10-18)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Tangle Falls to Tangle Ridge, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-7-19)

Days 1-3 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-5-19, 8:10 AM, Black Hills, SD – Late, late, late! Days late, but the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was finally underway! Hitting I90, the G6 rapidly gathered speed. Thousands of miles to go. Time to make tracks! Lupe would have opportunities for adventures along the way, but she couldn’t dilly-dally too much. Summer ends early in the Arctic!

Bright-eyed and alert, the Carolina Dog was ready for action! Barking at cows, horses, suspicious haystacks and outbuildings would be about it, though, for a while. Stops were infrequent and brief as the G6 cruised N & W along a familiar route.

*Back in Wyoming! A sure sign of good times ahead!* At the Moorcroft, WY I90 rest area, Lupe’s first chance to stretch after setting out on a brand new Dingo Vacation.

5:30 PM, Kings Hill Pass, Little Belt Mountains, Montana – Skies had been crisp and clear all day, but the air was smokey at Kings Hill Pass. No matter! This was the day’s only real chance to get out and explore. Lupe wasn’t about to miss out! She had her choice of a relatively easy ascent of either Kings Hill (8,008 ft.) or Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.).

Kings Hill Pass is a favorite stop on the way to Canada, so Loopster had already been to both multiple times. It had been a couple of years since she’d been to Porphyry Peak. Why not? The road trek to the lookout tower at the summit was under 2 miles. Squirrels along the way were the highlight. Smoke from distant fires marred the views from the top.

8:28 PM, Hwy 89, Al Buck Memorial Park – Last stop of the day. Trees and picnic tables, plus a spring that gushed out of the base of a hillside. Lupe helped herself to a drink. After sniffing around a bit and a bite to eat, time to call it a night.

Getting refreshed at Al Buck Memorial Park N of the Little Belt Mountains.

8-6-19 – The next day was even less exciting. Mile after mile rolled by. Plenty of big fields, but hardly any cows or horses.

At 10:55 AM, Lupe went through Canadian customs, a snoozer of an event if ever there was one. A stop at a picnic ground N of Carmangay overlooking the sluggish Little Bow River was pleasant enough, but didn’t last long. Calgary was the usual traffic-clogged madhouse. Even the Canadian Rockies were a bit of a disappointment. Heavily overcast, drippy and cool, it felt like summer was already long gone.

By evening Lupe had made it to lovely Bow Lake in Banff National Park, departure point for several fabulous past adventures. However, the mood was subdued and forlorn.

8-7-19 – No change. Breakfast at Bow Lake was a foggy affair. After 2 long days on the road, a real adventure was in order, but it didn’t look like Loop was in luck. Might as well keep driving N.

Going over Bow Summit on Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93 a short while later, the situation appeared much more promising. Fog lingered down in the Mistaya River valley, but pale blue skies were overhead!

Heading into the Mistaya River valley after crossing Bow Summit. Photo looks NNW.

The weather continued to improve. Going to be a gorgeous day after all! SPHP stopped at the Coleman Creek picnic ground to get the pack ready, then accompanied Lupe to the North Saskatchewan River for a quick look around.

By the **North Saskatchewan River**. Photo looks SSE.

The beautiful river enhanced by the sun’s warmth was inspiring!

Oh, it’s a day made for adventure, SPHP! We’re here in the fabulous Canadian Rockies. Isn’t there something we can do?

Absolutely, Loopster! Remember the Canadians we followed up Mount Jimmy Simpson last year? One of the places they recommended was Tangle Ridge. It’s not much farther, and supposed to be a great day hike. Want to check it out?

Sounds terrific! Let’s do it! Anything to get out of the G6 for a while.

Going up and over Sunwapta Pass, Lupe went by the starting points of many great adventures she’d had in years past. Trailheads for Panther Falls, Nigel Pass, Parker Ridge, Wilcox Pass, and the Athabasca Glacier were all right along Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93 or close to it.

Once past the Athabasca Glacier, SPHP started looking for Tangle Falls. The cascade came into sight on the R (NE) side of the highway about 7 km later. A pullout was on the opposite side of the road. SPHP parked the G6, and Lupe headed over to check out the falls. (10:32 AM, 52ºF)

**Tangle Falls** in Jasper National Park. Photo looks ENE.

Tangle Falls consisted of a series of waterfalls rather than one great big one, but the overall effect was still quite impressive. Being right next to the highway, Tangle Falls was a busy place. However, while there was a sign for the falls right along the road, there didn’t seem to be one for any trail to Tangle Ridge (9,843 ft.).

After admiring the falls for a few minutes, Lupe set out in search of a trail. SE of Tangle Falls (uphill) on the same side of the highway she soon discovered an abandoned jeep or ATV route on top of an embankment. A small sign here said 7.5 km to Wilcox Pass. This had to be it! Access to Tangle Ridge was somewhere off this trail.

At the start of the Wilcox Pass trail near Tangle Falls. Photo looks SE.

7.5 km to Wilcox Pass, but the Tangle Ridge route would leave this trail long before Lupe got that far.

Paralleling Icefield Parkway Hwy 93, the Wilcox Pass trail went uphill heading SE. The trail began above the highway, and climbed fast enough to steadily increase the gap as both Tangle Falls and Tangle Creek were left behind. Although Lupe had been to Wilcox Pass before, she’d always started from the other end of the Wilcox Pass trail which begins near the Wilcox campground. She’d never been here before.

Near Tangle Falls the Wilcox Pass trail starts out as an abandoned jeep or ATV route. Photo looks SE.

The trail soon curved E (L) away from the highway and narrowed to a typical single track. For a short distance the trail was fairly level, but once it turned NE (L again), Lupe found herself on an increasingly steep ascent in a dense forest.

Heading up into the forest. Photo looks NE.

After a good climb, the trail emerged from the trees nearly leveling out as it traversed a steep open slope filled with wildflowers. This meadow wasn’t large, but already provided views hinting at what might be in store higher up.

At the first opening, a steep flower-filled meadow with views hinting at what was to come. Photo looks N.

**Mount Athabasca** (L) and **Mount Andromeda** (R). Photo looks SSE.

Beyond the steep meadow, the trail re-entered the forest. Almost right away, Lupe caught a glimpse of Tangle Creek far down in a valley with Tangle Ridge looming high above it.

First glimpse of **Tangle Ridge**. Photo looks N.

The Wilcox Pass trail continued higher in spurts winding generally E or NE with level or even short downhill sections in between. Tangle Creek was out of sight in a valley to the N, but could sometimes be heard. 15 minutes after catching that first glimpse of Tangle Ridge, Lupe reached Tangle Creek.

By **Tangle Creek** close to where the Wilcox Pass trail first reaches it. Photo looks ESE.

The topo map showed a massive arm of Tangle Ridge coming S down to Tangle Creek from the summit. Somewhere along in here Lupe needed to leave the Wilcox Pass trail and cross over to the N side of the creek, but exactly where to do that wasn’t clear. Was there a spur trail, or maybe even a bridge?

The trail continued E along the S side of Tangle Creek, so Lupe followed it a little farther. N of the stream a huge forested slope was in sight, but that was about it. However, Lupe did come to several small cairns next to the trail. Exactly what they signified wasn’t clear. No side trails were evident, nor any bridges across Tangle Creek.

By one of the little cairns that appeared shortly after reaching Tangle Creek. Photo looks E.

Lupe went far enough E to see a tributary entering Tangle Creek from the N. The map showed she shouldn’t go any further. Needing to stay W of that tributary, the Carolina Dog turned around and went back. This time, upon getting close to where the trail first reached Tangle Creek, SPHP noticed a large cairn sitting on an embankment N of the stream.

Hmm. Maybe Lupe ought to cross Tangle Creek right here to go check out that big cairn? The stream was easily fordable, and might even be rock-hopped. SPHP was still pondering when suddenly a hiker appeared near the big cairn. He proceeded down to Tangle Creek, crossed it, then stopped to chat with SPHP.

The hiker was a young man from Edmonton. He’d already been up to Tangle Ridge – a long, steep climb, but well worth it. The views up top were stunning! He provided some excellent advise:

Cross Tangle Creek here. From the big cairn, follow a faint trail going NE marked by several smaller cairns. Should wind up close to the W edge of a big ravine that a tributary of Tangle Creek comes down from the N. The trail will improve as it climbs steadily along or close to the edge of the ravine, before eventually fading away again above tree line. By then the route is obvious – just keep going up!

With that, after thanks from SPHP, the hiker disappeared down the Wilcox Pass trail.

So we cross Tangle Creek here, SPHP?

Yup. Think we were about to figure it all out on our own, Loop, but that was some great beta. No doubt about it now. Sounds pretty simple!

Onward, then! SPHP, ho!

Loop about to cross **Tangle Creek**. The big cairn *(not pictured off the R edge)* was visible from here up on an embankment on the opposite side of the creek. Photo looks NW.

Lupe easily forded the stream, while SPHP managed to rock-hop it. Up at the big cairn, the faint trail didn’t amount to much at all, but the American Dingo sniffed it out, and SPHP did notice a few little cairns along the way. The route was nearly level as it paralleled Tangle Creek, but soon it turned NE starting to gain elevation.

Before long, Lupe was at the W edge of the ravine overlooking Tangle Creek’s tributary from the N. At first she wasn’t all that high above the tributary, maybe 20 or 30 feet, but as the trail turned N following the ravine, it began a steep ascent. Soon the ravine was a deep valley, with the creek far below the precipitous sharp edge the trail ran along.

Heading up the W edge of the deep ravine. Photo looks NNE.

Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) came into view back to the SE as Lupe gained elevation.

**Mount Wilcox** (Center). Photo looks SE.

The hiker from Edmonton was right! The trail was now quite distinct and easy to follow. Once in a while it veered NW off into the forest, but it seldom strayed far from the edge of the huge ravine.

Onward and upward! The ascent was relentlessly steep, a problem now compounded by the appearance of hordes of mosquitoes. Lupe wanted to stop and take refuge under small trees or bushes, but the bloodthirsty insects found her wherever she tried to hide. SPHP urged Loop onward, since movement helped to stay ahead of the swarm, but frequently had to stop to gasp for breath, causing the American Dingo to seek shelter again during each pause.

Tangle Ridge was 1,000 meters, roughly 3,300 feet, higher than where Lupe crossed Tangle Creek. The forest seemed to go on forever, but at last tree line was reached. The trail now angled NW away from the ravine out onto open terrain where there were a few rock outcroppings. The mosquitoes remained bad, but the views to the S were already tremendous!

Tree line. Lupe hides out under the small tree (L of Center). **Mount Wilcox** (L) and **Mount Andromeda** (Center) with **Mount Athabasca** between them. Photo looks SSE.

**Nigel Peak** (L of Center), **Mount Wilcox** (R) and **Mount Athabasca** (far R). Photo looks SE.

**Mount Wilcox** (L), **Mount Athabasca** (Center) and **Mount Andromeda** (R). Photo looks SSE with help from the telephoto lens.

The trail faded away, and thankfully the mosquitoes disappeared, too, as Lupe got above the last of the vegetation. The Carolina Dog had already gained the vast majority of the elevation required to reach the top of Tangle Ridge (9,843 ft.), but there was still a considerable trudge higher yet to go on a barren scree slope. Lupe perked up and roamed as she pleased. Any route higher would do.

Approaching the end of the greenery. Photo looks N.

Another look back. **Mount Wilcox** (L) and **Mount Andromeda** (Center) with **Mount Athabasca** between them. **Sunwapta River valley** (Center). **Snow Dome** (R) and part of **Mount Kitchener** (R edge). Photo looks SSE.

Not far from the top now. Another part of **Tangle Ridge** (L) and **Nigel Peak** (R). Photo looks SE.

Near the top of Tangle Ridge, Loopster started coming to snowbanks. She found a big one draped over the summit next to an assortment of communications equipment.

Getting close to the top. Photo looks W.

The communications equipment comes into sight. Photo looks NW.

**Mount Athabasca** (L) and **Mount Andromeda** (R) from the summit. Photo looks SSE.

At the **true summit of Tangle Ridge**. Photo looks SE.

**Tangle Ridge** summit region. **Nigel Peak** (R). Photo looks SE.

What a tremendous vantage point Tangle Ridge (9,843 ft.) was! In all directions Lupe enjoyed visions of glory – a sea of mighty mountains, many snow or glacier-clad, stretching away as far as the eye could see!

Sunwapta Peak (10,892 ft.) was almost due N. Far beyond it toward the L was another prominent peak – Mount Henry MacLeod (10,876 ft.)? SPHP wasn’t sure, but was more confident that a distant high ridge to the R was Poboktan Mountain (10,892 ft.).

**Sunwapta Peak** (Center). **Mount Henry MacLeod** (far L)? **Poboktan Mountain** (R of Sunwapta) in the distance. Photo looks N.

**Mount Henry MacLeod** (Center)? Photo looks N with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

**Sunwapta Peak** (L) and **Poboktan Mountain** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

A dramatic lower ridge extended NW from the Tangle Ridge summit. Straight out from this ridge were some wild-looking peaks, but SPHP didn’t know any of them. Looking slightly to the R (NNW), Lupe had a commanding view of a long stretch of the Sunwapta River valley.

Looking down along **Tangle Ridge’s NW ridge** (R). **Diadem Peak (11,155 ft.)** (far L). Photo looks NW.

**Sunwapta River valley** (Center). Photo looks NNW.

Another look at **Tangle Ridge’s NW ridge**. Photo looks NW.

Zoomed in on the wild-looking unknown peaks. Photo looks NW.

To the E the mountains were a bit lower and less dramatic. A small lake was visible down in a deep canyon, but SPHP didn’t recognize any of the surrounding mysterious peaks.

More familiar territory was to the SE where Wilcox Lake nestled below Nigel Peak (10,535 ft.). Wilcox Pass, a favorite spot Lupe had been to several times before for a fabulous view of the Athabasca Glacier, was also in sight along with Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.).

**Wilcox Pass** (Center). **Nigel Peak** and **Wilcox Lake** (L). **Mount Wilcox** and snow-clad **Mount Athabasca** (R). Photo looks SE.

**Nigel Peak** (Center) and **Wilcox Lake**. Photo looks SE.

**Nigel Peak** and **Wilcox Lake**. Photo looks SE with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Only the toe of the Athabasca Glacier was visible from Tangle Ridge, but many surrounding peaks were familiar. Mount Athabasca (11,453 ft.), Mount Andromeda (11,286 ft.), Snow Dome (11,352 ft.) and Mount Kitchener (11,499 ft.) were all Lupe favorites.

**Mount Athabasca** (L) and **Mount Andromeda** (R). The **toe of the Athabasca Glacier** is visible at (Center). **Mount Wilcox** (lower L). Photo looks SSE.

**Mount Athabasca** (Center) and **Mount Wilcox** (lower L). Photo looks SSE with help from the telephoto lens.

Zoomed in on **Mount Andromeda** (L). Photo looks S.

**Mount Kitchener** (Center). Photo looks SSW.

Some of the most spectacular views from Tangle Ridge were of a series of tremendous peaks off to the W. SPHP couldn’t identify any of them. For a long time Lupe and SPHP sat together facing this awesome panorama. Studying maps later on yielded at least some answers.

Most impressive of all, Mount Alberta (11,870 ft.) stood farthest W. Somewhat closer toward the R (N) were Mount Woolley (11,286 ft.) and Diadem Peak (11,155 ft.). Mushroom Peak (10,499 ft.) situated in front of Diadem blended into the scene.

**Mount Alberta** (far L), **Mount Woolley** (L) and **Diadem Peak** (Center). Photo looks W.

**Diadem Peak** (L) with **Mushroom Peak** in front of it. Photo looks NW.

Little Alberta (9,711 ft.) and Mount Cromwell (10,958 ft.) stood L (S) of Mount Alberta. Next to the S came the massive snowy plateau of Stutfield Peak (11,319 ft.). Beyond and S of Stutfield were North Twin (12,247 ft.), highest of all, but only the top of which could be seen, and the dramatic steep ramp of South Twin (11,749 ft.).

**Mount Cromwell** (far L), **Little Alberta** (L), **Alberta Peak** (L of Center), **Mount Woolley** (Center L), and **Diadem Peak** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

**South Twin** (L), **North Twin** (Center) and **Stutfield Peak** (R). Photo looks SW.

**Stutfield Peak**. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

**South Twin** (L of Center). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Conditions weren’t bad at all. Temperatures in the low 50’s ºF, with a light SW wind. Lupe and SPHP made many rounds of the summit area, gazing repeatedly upon the fabulous views in all directions.

On **Tangle Ridge** high in the **Canadian Rockies**.

Late afternoon. A wonderful hour and 45 minutes on Tangle Ridge had slipped away all too soon. Facing famous Wilcox Pass far below, and all the glorious surrounding peaks, Lupe started S back down the long scree slope. What an unforgettable day in the Canadian Rockies this had turned out to be! (End 7:57 PM, 67ºF)