#Omniten – Page 8 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Fraser Peak, British Columbia, Canada (8-9-17)

Day 10 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

Something was still wrong. The road Lupe had been following from the gravel pit went only a short distance before ending at a shack in an impenetrably dense forest. This couldn’t possibly be right. If it was, the forest had grown up to such an extent that the Carolina Dog was never going to get to Fraser Peak (5,978 ft). After a quick glance around to make sure no sign of a road or trail was being missed, Loop and SPHP went back the way they’d come.

The instructions SPHP had taken off the internet before Lupe left on this Dingo Vacation seemed clear enough, and the morning had begun well. It was a beautiful, cloudless day. After leaving the International Falls trailhead, Lupe and SPHP had headed N on South Klondike Highway No. 2, stopping at a few pullouts along the way for a look at small sparkling lakes in the scenic, heavily glaciated Tormented Valley.

Lupe checks out views in the Tormented Valley near South Klondike Highway No. 2. Photo looks S.

Fraser Peak was only 5 miles N of International Falls, and easily spotted from the South Klondike Highway. There was supposed to be a pullout that serves as a trailhead on the E side of the highway about 1 km (0.6 mile) S of Canadian Customs. SPHP also watched for a side road going W or NW into the forest on the opposite side of the highway 100 meters (330 ft.) N of the pullout toward customs.

As it turned out, there were two large gravel parking areas on the E side of the South Klondike Highway. Between them SPHP did see a side road going NW from the highway. This side road was nearest to the pullout closest to Canadian Customs. It was blocked by two cement barriers, and disappeared into tall bushes and forest beyond them.

The side road was not 100 meters N from either of the pullouts. It was the wrong direction from the pullout closest to customs, and more than twice as far N as it should have been from the pullout farther S. There was no doubt Lupe was in the correct area, however. Fraser Peak was right where it should be, and so was Canadian Customs. Maybe the online directions were just a bit sloppy?

SPHP turned the G6 around and drove back to the pullout farther away from customs. Lupe would start for Fraser Peak (5,978 ft.) from here. (11:05 AM, 66°F)

**Fraser Peak** from the gravel pullout on the E side of South Klondike Highway No. 2 roughly 1 km S of Canadian Customs. Photo looks WSW.

Another look with some help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks WSW.

Loop crossed over to the W side of South Klondike Highway No. 2. It still bothered SPHP that the side road was so far from the pullout. As the Carolina Dog followed the highway N, SPHP kept an eye out for signs of another road, but saw nothing. Lupe reached the side road with its concrete barriers perhaps 250 meters from where the G6 was parked.

The side road headed W or NW into the forest, as expected. This road was supposed to go 0.6 km before reaching a junction with another road near a gate. Lupe would take the second road SW to Fraser Peak.

Fine and dandy, but that wasn’t how it worked out. After entering the forest, the side road soon curved N away from Fraser Peak. Unexpected. Finding no sign of any trail continuing NW, Lupe and SPHP stuck with the road. Before long Looper arrived at a gravel pit.

*So, we’ve come all the way to NW British Columbia to tour a gravel pit, aye, SPHP? Better take another look at those directions!* Photo looks N.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was right. Better check those directions again. The directions did mention this gravel pit and a highway maintenance garage as an alternate starting point for Fraser Peak. For those coming from the N who don’t want to have to go through Canadian Customs, a road to the gravel pit leaves the W side of South Klondike Highway No. 2 shortly before reaching customs.

Not sure why we wound up here starting from where we did Loop, but it’s fine. There’s supposed to be an old road going SW from the NW portion of this gravel pit. It will take us to the gate we are supposed to be looking for, although it’s now 0.9 km away instead of only 0.6 km.

So follow the SW edge of this gravel pit NW looking for an old road?

Yep. That ought to do it.

Except it didn’t. Instead, when Lupe found an old road, it ended at this dilapidated shack in impenetrable forest. Hmmm. Back to the gravel pit. Maybe there was another road even farther NW? Sure enough, the American Dingo found one. Yeah, this was it alright. All systems go!

Lupe at the start of one of the two roads going SW (toward the camera) from the gravel pit. If only SPHP remembered if this was the right road, or the one going to the shack! If you take this one and arrive at a shack, come back and turn L (NW) here. The correct road isn’t far off. Photo looks NE.

*What’cha think of this road, SPHP? Looking better? ….. Oh yeah, Looper. No doubt about it. All systems go! Carry on, sweet Dingo.*

The correct road was nearly level and went through the forest heading straight toward the lower end of Fraser Peak’s NE ridge. The whole mountain was soon in view.

Heading for **Fraser Peak** from the gravel pit and highway maintenance yard. Photo looks SW.

Loop reached the gate mentioned in the directions. 30 feet before the gate, a trail or faint road intersected with the road Lupe was on. It came out of the forest from the SE (L). SPHP was certain that was the route Lupe was supposed to have taken to get here from the highway. Oh, well. This had been a roundabout way, but so what? It worked.

Lupe reaches the gate mentioned in the directions. 30 feet from the gate toward the camera, a trail or faint side road intersected with the road Lupe was following. It went E or SE and had to be the shortest route back to the highway. No doubt it was the route SPHP had intended Loop to use to get here. Eh, whatever works! Photo looks SW.

Beyond the gate, the road started gaining elevation. Already near noon, it was sunny and getting hot out. There wasn’t much shade on the road. Lupe and SPHP would have liked to stop in the shade when there was some, but biting flies and mosquitoes made that not such a great idea.

The road had steepened quite a bit by the time it began curving W up a ravine. A creek in the ravine was too large and swift to cross easily. The directions said to continue following the road, anyway. The road would lead to a better place higher up to ford the creek.

Lupe near the big stream rushing down from Bryant Lake. Photo looks W.

Getting closer to **Fraser Peak**. Photo looks SW.

The road briefly leveled out as Loop approached the ford. An elevated pipeline in a wooden housing also went over the stream. The wooden housing was clearly marked “Keep Off – Fall Hazard”, yet a distinct trail led right up to it. Clearly this warning is not always heeded.

Lupe arrives at the ford. Bryant Lake, where the stream comes from, isn’t too far away beyond the ridge ahead. Photo looks W.

The ford didn’t look bad. The water was swift and knee deep on SPHP, but the creek bottom wasn’t as full of big rocks where the road crossed it as elsewhere. SPHP waded in. Looper followed, but the fast water was deep enough to scare her. She retreated to the bank.

SPHP made it across just fine. Once on the far side, SPHP turned around to begin the process of coaxing Lupe to follow. The Carolina Dog had vanished! Looking up, there she stood, feeling foxy and quite pleased with herself on the Dingo bridge.

*Warning sign? What warning sign? Mighty nice of these Canadians to provide this nifty Dingo bridge!*

Now that the stream had been crossed, Lupe and SPHP left the road climbing a steep hillside to the SW. In retrospect, it might have been better to stay on the road all the way to Bryant Lake, which wasn’t all that much farther away. The lake would have been worth seeing. However, climbing the hillside was a more direct route to Fraser Peak.

Looper on her way up the steep hillside after crossing the creek and leaving the road. Photo looks E.

The steep hillside wasn’t terribly high. Loopster was soon up where the terrain leveled out to some extent. Loop and SPHP now headed S or SE toward the lower end of the big E ridge coming down from the N end of Fraser Peak.

Lupe was already near tree line. She traveled across open ground where little streams trickled down gentle slopes to shallow ponds. Yet it must have been quite dry recently. The tundra crunched beneath SPHP’s boots. Loop had a good view of the big ridge she needed to get up on ahead. A rocky ravine with a snow bank in it looked like a good place to begin the ascent.

Lupe reaches a flat area full of little streams and shallow ponds. Fraser Peak’s NE ridge is straight ahead. Lupe would try going up the ravine with the snow bank in it at Center. Photo looks SE.

Lupe and SPHP weren’t entirely alone. As the American Dingo headed for the big ridge, several grouse or ptarmigans got her all excited. They ran along the ground a short distance before flying off.

Lupe saw several of these grouse or ptarmigans on the tundra.

Approaching Fraser Peak’s NE ridge. Lupe began her ascent heading for the snow bank seen on the L. Photo looks WSW.

The route up the ravine with the snow bank was steeper than expected, and the upper reaches were very rocky. Lupe had to wait around quite a bit for SPHP. She was already getting some great views of the Tormented Valley off to the E and NE.

Lupe reaches the snow bank. This upper end of the ravine she’d come up was very rocky. Photo looks SW.

Lupe had plenty of time to relax while waiting for SPHP. She has a great view of a large portion of the Tormented Valley from here. Canadian Customs along South Klondike Highway No. 2 is in view on the near side of Bernard Lake. The gravel pit near customs and the road Lupe followed through the forest are also visible on the L. Photo looks NE.

When Lupe reached the ridgeline, she still had a very long climb ahead of her. Fraser Peak’s long NE ridge had a series of large gaps or gashes running across it like the one she’d come up. Just like at AB Mountain (5,036 ft.) and International Falls, these ravines were oriented SW/NE. Lupe and SPHP found it easiest to stay well S of the steeper N edge of the ridgeline when trying to get past the gaps.

Between the gaps, Lupe had to climb up and over a series of steep ridges. There was a lot of exposed rock, but for a long way there was also a fair amount of alpine vegetation. Loop was often able to follow natural vegetated ramps zig-zagging up the rock formations on the ridges.

The gaps were sometimes full of broken rock. Often there were large snow banks or hidden tarns. Lupe almost always lost some elevation crossing these ravines. The gashes made the climb significantly harder and more time consuming than going up a smoother, more even ridge would have been.

Whenever Loopster was on or climbing the ridges between the gashes, the views were tremendous. She enjoyed a splendid panorama of a vast territory to the E.

Even on the lower portions of Fraser Peak’s long, rough NE ridge Lupe had fabulous panoramic views. Long, skinny Summit Lake in the **Tormented Valley** is seen below. **White Pass** is at the far end of **Summit Lake** on the R. Photo looks S.

**Bernard Lake** (Foreground) and **Shallow Lake** (L) form a continuous crescent down in the **Tormented Valley**, a great deal of which is seen here. The South Klondike Highway, Canadian Customs and gravel pit are all on the L. Photo looks NE.

Miss Giant Pink Tongue enjoying the day on the way up Fraser Peak.

Fraser Peak’s NE ridge was rough ground, but nothing too difficult or scary until much higher up. Photo looks W.

Lupe occasionally saw more grouse or ptarmigan. Photo looks S.

This grouse or ptarmigan didn’t seem worried about Lupe and SPHP passing by.

Looper on one of the ridges with a grand view of **Summit Lake**, **White Pass** (R), and many beautiful peaks beyond. Photo looks SSE.

After a long, winding climb over ridges and gashes, Lupe came to the last big gash in Fraser Peak’s main NE ridge. She was above nearly all of the alpine vegetation now. The gash was full of broken rock and snow.

Looking over the last big gash Loop had to get past. Photo looks WSW.

A certain Dingo was rather pleased to reach the huge snowdrift in the last big gash.

In addition to the big snowdrift, the last big gash contained a lot of broken rock. **Mount Carmack (6,808 ft.)** is the highest peak at Center in the distance. Photo looks SSW.

Once past the final gash, the toughest part of the climb up Fraser Peak was directly ahead. This was the steepest part of the mountain. Lupe and SPHP were now much closer to the cliffy N side of the ridge. The ridge narrowed considerably as the Carolina Dog scrambled ever higher.

Lupe stands above the last gash. The hardest, steepest part of the climb up Fraser Peak was directly ahead. Photo looks WSW.

*Fraser Peak is turning into quite a feat for my second Arctic Sisterhood adventure! Wonder what we’ll see from the top, SPHP?*

American Dingoes are great scramblers. SPHP frequently had to use hands for support. A few super steep spots where there was a lot of loose rock and dirt were the worst. The upper portion of the ridge narrowed so much that for the first time it was possible to see a path worn by other climbers.

SPHP proceeded cautiously, slowly. A mistake up here would not be good. Lupe was very patient. Finally the steepest part of the climb was over. The terrain remained very rough, but was rapidly leveling out. Awesome cliffs were close at hand.

Getting close, but that’s not the summit yet. The rough terrain has already leveled out quite a bit. Photo looks SW.

Oddly enough, the scariest part of the whole climb was a short stretch of level ground. Lupe was very high on the NE ridge when she came to a section that narrowed down to as little as 3 or 4 feet wide. Only a 20 or 30 foot long stretch was this narrow, but the steep drops to the abyss on both sides were essentially cliffs. This part of the ridge was flat overall, but covered with tilted rocks. Fortunately, the rocks were small.

No significant obstacle rested upon this rock bridge in the sky, but the fearsome dizzying drops on either side gave SPHP pause. Lupe waited calmly while SPHP tried to summon an ounce or two of courage. Walking across that bridge of rock really wasn’t anything physically difficult at all. Nothing to it actually. It would take only a few seconds. On the other side, the way to the summit was open. This was it, the final test. Several minutes passed.

SPHP patted Lupe and felt better. Let’s do it! Over in a flash. Made it! So pathetically easy, yet psychologically difficult. Apparently the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood suffered no qualms. She had trotted across like it was nothing.

At any rate, it was done. The route to Fraser Peak’s summit was wide open. Fear turned to joy! Lupe was going to make it!

Lupe safely beyond the narrow spot (not pictured). The route to the summit is all cake from here! Photo looks SW.

In only a few more minutes, Lupe was approaching the summit area. The top of Fraser Peak (5,978 ft.) was divided into two minor ridges by yet another gash of moderate size. Lupe and SPHP were closest to the lower NE section of the summit region. Here, a large pole stuck up at the edge of a cliff to the E. It had been visible for a long way from below, but SPHP had mistakenly taken it for an antenna or tower of some sort.

Lupe reaches the summit region. It was divided into two unequal parts by the gash seen at Center and R. The lower, smaller NE portion is ahead on the L. Some sort of large pole stood there at the edge of a cliff. Fraser Peak’s true summit is still farther ahead on the R. Photo looks SW.

Before continuing to the true summit, Lupe headed over to the curious pole to investigate. The pole was at least 2 feet thick and perhaps 20 feet tall. It was all bare wood except for a red painted figure resembling an odd Santa Claus carved into the upper end of the pole. The figure faced NE gazing out beyond the cliff over the Tormented Valley.

Lupe arrives to inspect the odd totem pole on **Fraser Peak**. Photo looks S.

The significance of this strange totem pole wasn’t at all clear. Lupe had seen similar native artwork in Carcross a few days ago. The red figure almost assuredly was not Santa Claus, but no plaque or anything else was around to explain who or what he represented.

Lupe found nothing to explain the presence of this totem pole or the strange figure carved into it. Photo looks S.

Whoever the red figure represents, he has a tremendous view of the Tormented Valley. Photo looks NE.

If the strange character at the top of the pole would have been able to turn to face S, he would have had this incredible view of **Summit Lake** and the South Klondike Highway. **White Pass is** at far R. Photo looks S.

Having inspected the totem pole without learning much, it was time to go in search of Fraser Peak’s true summit, which had to be very close now. Lupe went down into the gash separating the summit area into two sections. The terrain was still rising as she headed SW up onto the larger, higher ridge.

A look at the gully or gash that separates Fraser Peak’s summit area into two separate ridges. The lower, smaller NE ridge is on the L. From the totem pole, Loop headed SW up onto the bigger, higher ridge on the R in search of the true summit. Photo looks SW.

The higher SW portion of Fraser Peak’s summit area encompassed 2 acres of rocky ground almost entirely devoid of vegetation. The surface was uneven, but not steep. Near the SW end, 4 minor high points were in contention for the title of true summit. The two highest were a couple of large boulders separated by only 5 to 10 feet. The W boulder seemed an inch or two higher than the E one.

Lupe hopped up on the W boulder to claim Fraser Peak (5,978 ft.) as her first peakbagging success since becoming the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood after climbing AB Mountain (5,036 ft.) two days ago. Loop had an eye-popping view of Taiya Peak (6,844 ft.) (2,086 m) a couple of miles away to the SW.

Success! The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood stands atop the highest boulder on **Fraser Peak**. Beyond her is gorgeous snow and glacier clad **Taiya Peak**. Photo looks SW.

As impressive and beautiful as Taiya Peak was, it was only part of a vast snow white panorama of dramatic mountains partially buried beneath massive glaciers extending to the W horizon.

SPHP recognized at least one of those high distant peaks. Lupe had seen it only yesterday from another angle at the far W end of her explorations off the International Falls trail. She was seeing it again here on Fraser Peak from a much higher vantage point. Not until many months later while looking at maps did SPHP begin to suspect that peak might have been the Skagway High Point (8,239 ft.).

*Wowee, SPHP! What a fantastic view! I’m sure glad we came to **Fraser Peak**. This is a spectacular peak for my second ever Arctic Sisterhood expedition. Simply amazing!*

Another look toward the heart of the most glorious scene. Lupe had seen the high distant peak at far L only yesterday from the International Falls area, too. SPHP wonders if it isn’t the **Skagway High Point (8,239)**? Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe gives a one ear salute. The dark peak at the far R may be **Mount Van Wagenen (7,041 ft.)** on the Alaska/British Columbia border. Photo looks W.

After a stint at the true summit, Lupe moved to the next highest boulder only 5 or 10 feet away. It appeared to be only an inch or two lower than the true summit. From this E boulder Loop could see part of Summit Lake and the jagged snowy mountains beyond it to the SE.

Loopster on the 2nd highest E boulder on **Fraser Peak**. Part of **Summit Lake** is in view more than 3,000 feet lower. **White Pass** is at the far end of the lake on the R. Photo looks SSE.

The third highest rock on Fraser Peak was another large boulder 20 feet NNW of the two highest ones, but was clearly a little lower. Another 30 feet beyond it to the NW was yet another high point on a small ridge. This fourth high point was easily at least a couple of feet lower than the true summit, but was near the W edge of the summit area, making it perhaps the best seat in the house as far as views were concerned.

Lupe and SPHP headed over to the ridge where the fourth high point was located to take a look and have a break. The Carolina Dog rested comfortably on a small cushion of vegetation next to the rocks. Looper eagerly accepted water and Taste of the Wild. Meanwhile, SPHP gazed out upon the splendid scenes in all directions.

The awesome panorama to the W. **Taiya Peak** is on the L. The valley on the R drains into Bryant Lake (not pictured). Photo looks W.

**Taiya Peak (6,844 ft.)** (2,086 m) (L). Photo looks WSW.

Possibly the **Skagway High Point (8,329 ft.)** (far L) and **Mount Van Wagenen (7,041 ft.)** (far R). Photo looks W.

**Skagway High Point** (far L)? The rounded glacier in the foreground is on the NW slopes of Taiya Peak. Photo looks W with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Loopster fuels up on Taste of the Wild while relaxing next to some of the highest rocks along the W side of Fraser Peak’s summit.

A spectacular look at the mountains S of the International Falls trail (which is below the far side of the big ridge in the foreground) where Lupe had been only yesterday. The higher L peak of the two closest sharp peaks at Center is **Feather Peak (5,889 ft.)**. The highest peak on the L is **Mount Carmack (6,808 ft.)**. The high point on the R is **Mount Cleveland (6,362 ft.)**. All of these mountains are across the border in Alaska. Photo looks SW.

It had taken a long time to climb Fraser Peak. Lupe and SPHP lingered at the summit for over an hour. Loop appreciated both the extended break and the views. She was quite content taking it easy, or following SPHP around the summit looking first one direction then another.

The mountains N of **Fraser Peak** all had far less snow on them than the ones to the S, which were closer to the ocean. The S end of **Bennett Lake** is seen in the distance. The high peak next to it on the R is likely **Paddy Peak (7,238 ft.)**. Photo looks NNE.

The very S end of **Summit Lake** and **White Pass** are seen below on the R. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

Looking SSE with help from the telephoto lens.

Precious minutes flew by. Sadly, the moment arrived when the sun said Lupe needed to move on. One last look at that glorious view to the W.

Looking W from **Fraser Peak**. **Taiya Peak** on the L.

It was too grand to simply depart. Would Loop like to go back to the true summit again? She would! A delaying tactic, but it still led to a sublime moment.

Conditions had been perfect. This had been a truly glorious day and mountain. And now, for the last time, Lupe stood perched high at the true summit of Fraser Peak. Mighty, frozen treasures of the Canadian and Alaskan wilderness were on display beyond her.

Done. Puppy, ho! Onward.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood leapt down off the summit rock. Better get a move on. It would take SPHP forever and a day to carefully scramble back down that steep upper NE ridge.

Still on top of **Fraser Peak**, but starting back. A fair amount of the summit area is in view here. The totem pole can be seen at Center to the L of Lupe’s tail. Photo looks NE.

At the lowest end of the summit area at the top of the NE ridge, Lupe paused. Looking back, she could see that odd Santa Claus at the top of the totem pole. SPHP looked down the dizzying NE ridge. Yowser! If it had seemed steep on the way up, it looked incredible staring down upon it from way up here.

Lupe pauses at the top of the steep NE ridge. Part of **Bryant Lake** is seen below. Photo looks NE.

Lupe bid farewell to the odd Santa Claus at the top of the totem pole on **Fraser Peak**.

Of course, Lupe had hardly started down, when SPHP had to face the narrow rock bridge for a second time. Having done it once already, it now seemed less intimidating. Still a place for caution, but SPHP barely hesitated before quickly striding across. Loop was over it in a flash, too. The long, slow descent of the upper NE ridge began.

Lupe hadn’t paid much attention to Bryant Lake on the way up. It had been out of sight until she was climbing the upper NE ridge, and then she had been facing the wrong direction. On the way down, though, she was facing it. Loop had plenty of time to study the lake while SPHP ever so slowly, bit by bit, carefully worked down the ridge.

Bryant Lake partially in view on the way down the NE ridge. Photo looks NNE.

A less obstructed look from farther down the ridge.

An awful lot of time had gone by when Lupe and SPHP finally reached the start of the gashes along the ridgeline. The sun would still be up for a little while longer, but Loop was now in the shadow of the mountain. Even this far down, the middle part of the long ridge seemed much steeper and the gashes much deeper than SPHP remembered.

Lupe was now having a grand time, though. She was back where there was some vegetation. She raced up and down, all around, sniffing here, there, everywhere, among rocks and ridges, tarns and snow banks. She was often far, far ahead of SPHP. Lost from sight, she would suddenly reappear in another direction, still running and sniffing. From time to time, she returned happy and breathless to SPHP.

The terrain looked different going down. SPHP had a hard time recognizing which gash Lupe needed to go down to get off the ridge. The sun had set and light was beginning to fade by the time SPHP guessed and committed to a long gash full of rock and boulder fields.

By now, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was out of gas. Three long days of adventures in a row and the Carolina Dog had shot her wad. Loopster begged SPHP to stop and rest. SPHP complied, but never for more than a minute or two. It was going to be dark soon. Being stuck way up here among steep boulder fields was not in the plan.

Happily, the chosen gash was the correct one. There was that snow bank again. Lupe finally made it off Fraser Peak’s NE ridge. She got soaking wet and cold fording the creek instead of using her Dingo bridge. On the road passing through the forest in near darkness, SPHP sang badly (a special talent) to ward off bears. No bear dared take on that racket. After reaching the gate, Loop took the side trail which SPHP believed was a shortcut back to the highway.

It was! The side trail became a road. Sure enough, it led Lupe back to the highway only 100 meters N of the pullout where the G6 sat all alone waiting for her return. (11:12 PM)

Alpo, water, dinner, lights out. Fraser Peak (5,978 ft.) had been such a fabulous day!

On **Fraser Peak**, British Columbia, Canada 8-9-17

Trailhead Notes: The trailhead for Fraser Peak is the second big pullout 1 km (0.6 mile) S of Canadian Customs on the E side of South Klondike Highway No. 2. (The highway from Carcross to Skagway) There are no signs, information or facilities on site.

The most direct 0.6 km (0.4 mile) long road to the gate at the connecting road leading to Fraser Peak is only 100 meters N of this pullout back toward Canadian Customs on the opposite side of the highway. Look carefully and it’s not hard to find. Loop and SPHP missed it, because trees and bushes have grown up sufficiently to hide this road from the highway. Vehicle traffic is blocked at the start by several large boulders.

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

AB Mountain – Lupe Joins the Arctic Sisterhood! Skagway, Alaska (8-7-17)

Day 8 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

Loopster was right! When Monday morning arrived, Skagway bore no resemblance to the virtual ghost town it had been at dusk on Sunday night. It was still early. Skagway wasn’t terribly busy yet, but you could just feel that the whole town would soon be teeming with activity. Before that happened, Lupe and SPHP took a walk down to the Skagway Sea Terminal for a look around.

Loop at at small park on the way to the Skagway Sea Terminal.

This old engine used take trains from Skagway over White Pass to Carcross and Whitehorse in the Yukon.

Skagway is located on the Taiya Inlet of the Lynn Canal, an arm of the North Pacific Ocean. Photo looks SW.

Three big cruise ships were in port, plus a yacht named Playpen and a number of smaller boats tucked away in a separate little cove.

Lupe at the Taiya Inlet. Cruise ship Explorer of the Seas is on the L. Photo looks SSW.

Radiance of the Seas, one of three large cruise ships in port. The almost identical Explorer of the Seas is docked right behind it.

The yacht Playpen and the 3rd big cruise ship.

Lots of smaller boats were tucked safely away in this separate cove. Photo looks NE.

Seeing the ocean and the beautiful mountains along the Taiya Inlet was fun. However, Lupe had already figured out that just like yesterday’s bush pilot flight-seeing tour to Virginia Falls leaving from Muncho Lake, SPHP would announce that taking a cruise on one of these luxurious cruise ships wasn’t in the budget, either.

That was OK. American Dingoes are flexible. They’re open to all sorts of ideas. Lupe had seen another less expensive entertainment possibility on the walk through town. Maybe SPHP could be talked into this one?

*SPHP, look at how good I’m being, and how pretty I am next to all these beautiful flowers! You’ll take me out to the Red Onion, won’t you, please? It’s right across the street, just follow me!*

Lupe had hopes for some high times at the Red Onion!

Lupe was in for high times, alright, but not at the Red Onion Saloon, at least not now. Today Lupe’s high times were going to involve 4,740 feet of elevation gain climbing AB Mountain (5,036 ft.). She was going to join the Arctic Sisterhood!

In 1899, back in the Klondike gold rush days, the Arctic Brotherhood had been founded by 11 gold prospectors on a steamship headed for Skagway from Seattle. The Arctic Brotherhood was originally a fraternal order whose members pledged to assist one another on the way to and while at the goldfields near Dawson City in the Yukon.

The in-land journey to the goldfields started at Skagway, where a unique two story hall decorated on the exterior with driftwood was built as the Arctic Brotherhood’s headquarters. For a while, the Arctic Brotherhood became very popular and expanded rapidly, at one point having over 10,000 members and up to 34 different camps distributed throughout the Yukon and southern Alaska.

A NNE trending ridge starting at Yakutania Point just W of Skagway rises from Taiya Inlet some 5,036 feet to a mountaintop more than 5 miles away. The letters “AB” appear on this mountain when snow conditions are right, so the mountain became known as A.B. Mountain or Arctic Brotherhood Mountain. It’s sometimes said in modern times that climbing AB Mountain makes one a member of the Arctic Brotherhood.

The real Arctic Brotherhood never accepted female members, but SPHP didn’t want to worry Lupe with such trivial details. As far as SPHP was concerned, if the plucky Carolina Dog could get to the top of the mountain today, she was going to become a member of the Arctic Sisterhood. SPHP told her as much.

Of course, after all her wonderful adventures in the Yukon and Alaska both last year and yet to come on this 2017 Dingo Vacation, Lupe was excited about the prospect of joining the Arctic Sisterhood! She was eager to get going right away!

SPHP found the small trailhead for AB Mountain on the S (L) side of the road to Dyea almost immediately after the road turned to gravel. On the opposite side of the road Lupe spotted a small sign saying A.B. Mountain next to the start of the Skyline Trail. (9:30 AM, 59°F)

*Come on, SPHP! This is it, the Skyline Trail to AB Mountain!*

For the first 2.25 miles, the trail was wide and easy to follow. It varied quite a bit on how steep it was, with both fairly steep and almost level sections. Lupe even came to a few dips. Overall, Lupe gained elevation at a moderate pace.

This early part of the trail went through a forest. Not far from the trailhead, Lupe explored a short side spur leading off the main trail to an exposed boulder. This boulder provided a view back toward Skagway and the Taiya Inlet. Everywhere else the only views were of the forest.

The wide, well worn trail to AB Mountain starts off in a forest.

Early in the trek, a boulder at the end of a short spur off the main trail provides this view of the Taiya Inlet. This is the only viewpoint for more than 2 miles. Photo looks SSW.

Shortly after returning to the main trail, Lupe crossed the first of two small streams.

Lupe wades in the first small stream that crosses the trail.

Continuing past the first small stream, the forest was tall and thick for a long way.

After crossing the first stream, the trail went a long way through the forest before eventually crossing a second small stream. Beyond the second stream, the trail began to steepen rapidly. It was soon so steep that SPHP was often grabbing branches, tree trunks, rocks – whatever was available for assistance. The steep climb didn’t bother Lupe, though.

At the start of this steep section, the trail had still been in thick forest. As Lupe gained elevation, however, the situation began to change. Tall bushes and Devil’s club mingled in among the trees. Lupe even saw a few blueberries and crowberries. Gradually, the trees became smaller and fewer. The tall bushes and Devil’s club prevailed. Views were now starting to open up.

As Lupe got higher, the trees began to thin. Tall bushes and Devil’s club began to dominate, and views started opening up. Photo looks SSW toward Skagway and Taiya Inlet.

SPHP had previously read online about an obstacle that Lupe had to be fast approaching. Somewhere along this steep section of the trail, trip reports stated there was a rope needed to get up a particularly slippery, dangerous spot. How bad was this spot? Was it a small cliff? Would Lupe even be able to get past it? SPHP was worried that the rope might be as far as the Carolina Dog could go.

Lupe finally did reach a yellow rope dangling 40 or 50 feet down a long, smooth-surfaced rock. The rock was plenty steep, but this wasn’t nearly as bad as SPHP had feared it might be. No exposure, no insurmountable obstacles. In fact, the American Dingo could scamper up and down the rock at will. The rope was a tremendous help to SPHP. With its assistance SPHP simply walked right on up the rock no problem at all.

Lupe reaches the dreaded rope section. It turned out to be nothing to worry about at all. The rope made it easy for SPHP to walk right on up. Lupe was perfectly capable of scampering up and down the steep rock at will without it.

Lupe kept climbing. SPHP had to stop frequently to catch breath. Lupe was starting to get above all the trees. The trail remained very steep. Even the tall bushes and Devil’s club were starting to give way to shorter vegetation. A high point up ahead looked like the start of easier terrain, and some fabulous sweeping views.

The trail remained very steep above the rope, but this high point eventually came into view promising both easier terrain and sweeping views ahead.

Starting to get above not only the trees, but the tall bushes, too. Skagway is on the L. Yakutania Point and the forest Lupe had come through on the way up are at Center. Dyea Point is the skinny peninsula on the R. Photo looks SSW along Taiya Inlet.

The climb up to the first sweeping viewpoint was farther than it looked, but Lupe and SPHP made it. The terrain was a lot easier here. The vegetation was reduced to tundra plants. Nothing obstructed the glorious views which were absolutely amazing in virtually every direction.

Lupe reaches the first sweeping viewpoint above the steepest section of the trail to AB Mountain. Dyea is in the valley at lower R. **Parsons Peak (5,600 ft.)** towers across the bay on the L. Photo looks WSW.

Lupe met two people at this first sweeping viewpoint. Sean and Rebecca Riordan from Brooklyn, New York were here enjoying the grand views. They had come to Skagway aboard the Explorer of the Seas, which Lupe had seen docked down at Skagway this morning. Sean and Rebecca were super friendly and nice to Lupe. Rebecca said her grandma was named Lupe, too!

Lupe met Sean & Rebecca Riordan from Brooklyn, New York at this first sweeping viewpoint. Photo looks E.

Sean and Rebecca were super friendly and nice to Lupe. Photo looks E.

Rebecca and Lupe with Taiya Inlet in the background. Photo looks S.

Sean and Lupe together. Sean was looking forward to pizza and drinks aboard the Explorer of the Seas this evening. Lupe thought maybe she’d join Sean if the Red Onion Saloon didn’t work out with SPHP. Photo looks N.

Sean, Rebecca and SPHP had a good time chatting for quite a while. Lupe certainly didn’t mind taking a break being petted and loved.

Relaxing with Sean and Rebecca Riordan before they depart for Skagway and pizza and drinks aboard the luxurious Explorer of the Seas. Photo looks SSW.

Sean and Rebecca had to be back down to the Explorer of the Seas in time for an 8:00 PM departure, so eventually Lupe and SPHP had to bid them farewell and bon voyage. If the American Dingo hadn’t been committed to joining the Arctic Sisterhood today, she might well have followed Sean and Rebecca down for pizza and drinks aboard the luxurious Explorer of the Seas.

As it was, it was time to get moving again. The summit of AB Mountain was still a long way off, not even in sight yet. Up ahead, Lupe could see two rounded higher hills along the ridge. The trail led toward a closer wall of rock, as if destined to skirt these hills to the W (L).

After Sean and Rebecca headed down, Lupe and SPHP continued on looking for the summit of AB Mountain. Two rounded hills were in sight. The trail led toward the wall of rock partly in view on the L. Photo looks NNE.

The trail was no longer as wide, well-worn and easy to follow as it had been way back down in the forest. SPHP somehow lost it, and wound up on a boulder field below the E side of the rock wall. About half way through the boulder field, people were seen up on top of the rock wall. Apparently the trail was actually up there.

It was slow going on this boulder field below the wall of rock on the L. The trail was actually up on top, but SPHP had somehow lost it. Photo looks NNE.

Lupe and SPHP made it past the boulder field, and up onto the ridgeline beyond the two rounded hills. The trail continued winding along the top of the ridge, and after a while Lupe could see two distant high points ahead. The closer, lower one was marked on the topo map as the location of Hump Benchmark.

After following the ridge a long way beyond the two rounded hills, two distant high points appear ahead in shadow. The closer, lower one is the location of Hump Benchmark on the topo map. SPHP thought the summit of AB Mountain was the higher point beyond it. Photo looks NNE.

It was still a long way to Hump Benchmark, never mind the summit. Lupe continued up the ridgeline. Sometimes the trail was easy to follow, sometimes cairns marked the way, sometimes there was no indication at all of where to go except onward and upward. Lupe was still gaining elevation steadily. The views were fantastic on all sides.

Lupe continued gaining elevation along the giant ridgeline. The views were simply tremendous on all sides! Photo looks NNW.

Looking NE with help from the telephoto lens.

The East Fork of the Skagway River valley. Photo looks ESE with help from the telephoto lens.

The Reid Creek valley. Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.

**Parson Peak (5,600 ft.)** (far L) from the AB Mountain ridge. Photo looks W.

Looking WNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe passing by a small pond up on the ridge. This pond is shown at 4,186 feet (1,276 m) on the topo map. Still 1,050 feet of elevation gain to go from here! Photo looks ENE.

SPHP was getting tired. It seemed like Lupe had already gone a long, long way, but it was clear she still had significant ground left to cover. Several groups of people had either started out earlier in the morning, or had passed Loop and SPHP on the way up. Every now and then one of these groups was met making their way back down.

No one seemed to know how far it was to the summit of AB Mountain (5,036 ft.), although SPHP was pretty certain Lupe had been seeing the summit beyond the Hump from various vantage points along the ridge. However, everyone had turned back before getting there.

Only the last couple of guys Lupe met, one from England and the other from New Zealand, told SPHP they had been to the summit. They had found a large cairn at the top. They claimed it was only another 30 to 60 minutes away from where Lupe was now.

Two people approach Lupe on their way back down. Lupe met several such groups, but only the last two guys from England and New Zealand said they had made it to the summit of AB Mountain. In the distance on the L is the apparent summit, the high point just to its R is Hump Benchmark, or simply “the Hump” as SPHP came to call it. Photo looks NNE.

The Brit and the New Zealander had lied. Not on purpose maybe, perhaps they had gotten to the cairn that quickly, but SPHP couldn’t get there that fast. Not even close. An hour zipped by and the summit, wherever it was, still didn’t appear to be anywhere nearby. Lupe wasn’t even to the Hump yet.

The trail had all but vanished. Lupe rarely even saw a cairn. Another problem now existed. The character of the long ridge was changing. Lupe came to a series of long gashes. Each gash extended all the way across from one side of the big ridge to the other, forcing Loop to find a way around or through each one.

These gashes were all oriented SW/NE. They seemed like they had been created by a giant wielding a dull knife to slice a series of cuts partway into the ridge, as if it were a loaf of bread. Each cut amounted to a gap, and at the edge of each gap Lupe found herself at the top of a wall of rock 10 to 30 feet high. Sometimes there were relatively easy routes down into the gashes and up the other side. Sometimes there weren’t.

The gashes made this part of the ridge an interesting trek, but really slowed SPHP’s progress down. Lupe sometimes had to go way around the end of a gash. Usually it was too steep to go around the W side, but it was always possible to get around the E side, provided Lupe and SPHP down climbed enough.

Instead of gaining elevation steadily, Loop sniffed and explored her way along a twisting up and down off-trail route wherever the terrain appeared most favorable. Some of the gaps she crossed were full of loose rock and boulders. Others contained snow banks.

Lupe discovers a snow bank in one of the gashes.

Having to find ways around rock walls like the one on the R that extended clear across the ridge, made for an interesting, but long, tiring route.

Lupe down in another gash near the steep W end. The Irene Glacier is seen on the L. Photo looks NNW.

Irene Glacier (L). Photo looks NNW with help from the telephoto lens.

At last, Lupe was nearing the Hump. However, the biggest, deepest gash yet appeared between her and the Hump. Looper had to lose 150 feet of elevation going around the far NE end of this gash. Then it was a long climb up a series of benches to reach the top of the Hump from the E.

The Hump is dead ahead. Unfortunately, there is an unseen deep gash between here and there. Lupe had to down climb at least 150 feet of elevation going around the NE (R) end. Part of Mount Clifford (5,696 ft.), is seen ahead on the R. Photo looks N.

East Fork of the Skagway River valley. Photo looks SE.

Loopster climbing the benches on the Hump. Photo looks NE.

In yet another gash on the way up the Hump.

Nearing the top of the Hump. Photo looks SSW.

East Fork of the Skagway River (L) from the Hump. Photo looks SE.

Part of Goat Lake is in view from the Hump. Photo looks NE.

When Lupe reached the top of the Hump, the weather was changing. All day long the sky had been slowly clouding up. Now clouds swept over the ridge to AB Mountain. Lupe and SPHP were periodically engulfed in fog, only to have sunshine reappear a few minutes later. The clouds sailing by came out of the W.

From the top of the Hump, Lupe could finally see the summit again. It wasn’t that far away! Loop had to lose some elevation to get there, but the terrain was now less rugged than it had been getting to the Hump. Lupe had an almost direct route to the summit!

From the the Hump, Lupe can see the summit of AB Mountain ahead! It isn’t that far away now, and the terrain is becoming easier again. Photo looks NNE.

Lupe enjoys a brief moment of sunshine as she closes in on the summit of AB Mountain. Photo looks N.

Looking back down the ridge as another cloud closes in. Dyea is nearly 5,000 feet below on the R. Photo looks SSW.

Looper looks down on Dyea. Photo looks SSW.

Almost there! It was exciting to think that Lupe was about to join the Arctic Sisterhood with a successful ascent of AB Mountain! Photo looks N.

Lupe and SPHP made it to the summit cairn on AB Mountain (5,036 ft.)! Another cloud was sweeping over the ridge. Nothing could be seen except the nearby terrain. The rest of the world was gray.

It was still a joyful moment! Lupe was at the top of AB Mountain. She had joined the Arctic Sisterhood! The long trek had been completely worth it. SPHP congratulated Lupe, shaking her paw and praising her persistent effort.

Lupe reaches the summit cairn on AB Mountain! Photo looks N.

The newest member of the Arctic Sisterhood stands proudly next to the summit cairn on AB Mountain. Photo looks N.

Lupe wondered if she was the first Carolina Dog to join the Arctic Sisterhood? SPHP said she might well be. This was a great honor for Looper and a notable achievement on behalf of all Carolina Dogs everywhere.

Lupe gained more than 4,740 feet of elevation and had traveled more than 5 miles from the trailhead to get here.

Lupe squints in bright light as the fog thins.

Lupe had been standing up at the summit cairn for 6 or 7 minutes when a hole in the clouds opened up a partial view to the N. SPHP was surprised to see another high point not even 0.2 mile away! It looked to be almost identical in elevation to where Lupe was at the cairn. Was it possible it was even higher? Probably not, since the cairn was here, but SPHP checked the topo map anyway.

Oh, good grief! That other high point to the N actually was the true summit of AB Mountain! The topo map showed the other high point as 1535 meters (5,036 feet) compared to 1532 meters (5,026 feet) where Loopster was standing at the cairn. No denying it. Assuming the topo map was correct, which one had to, that other high point was 10 feet higher. The map even showed the name AB Mountain right at that N high point.

After Lupe had been at the summit cairn 6 or 7 minutes, the clouds parted to reveal this other high point to the N. A check of the topo map revealed it was 10 feet higher than where the cairn was, and actually the true summit of AB Mountain. Photo looks N.

It was now 2 hours since the Englishman and New Zealander had told SPHP it was only 30 to 60 minutes to the summit of AB Mountain. Clearly they hadn’t bothered going over to the N high point. They’d only mentioned the cairn. It was getting rather late in the afternoon, and the weather was continuing to degrade with more clouds moving in.

No matter! Lupe was going to the true summit! It didn’t look hard to get there, and shouldn’t take long. No time to lose, though. SPHP explained to Looper that to make her ascent of AB Mountain and new membership in the Arctic Sisterhood official, she needed to tag that N high point.

SPHP didn’t have to tell her twice. Loop led the way to the true summit.

Lupe approaches a snow drift in a low spot on the way to AB Mountain’s true summit. Photo looks N.

Clouds obscured all views again as Lupe reached the true summit of AB Mountain. A small rock stuck in a crack atop a massive rock appeared to be the absolute highest point on AB Mountain (5,036 ft.). Lupe was happy to make her ascent and membership in the Arctic Sisterhood official by standing next to it. SPHP put one of her front paws on top of the little rock and it was done.

All official now! Lupe stands proudly next to the highest little rock on AB Mountain. Photo looks N.

First Carolina Dog ever at the true summit of AB Mountain? SPHP thought there was a good chance Lupe had that honor.

*So did I do it? Can I relax now? ……. Yep, you’re official now Miss Arctic Sisterhood!*

Lupe remained at the true summit of AB Mountain for more than 20 minutes. A 10 mph SW breeze blew a steady stream of fog across the mountaintop. Every now and then, a partial view to the NE was momentarily revealed. A few times Lupe saw blue sky and sunshine directly overhead, while surrounded by fog. Most of the time the summit was simply socked in. Loop never did see more than a faint outline of Mount Clifford, the next higher peak farther N along the ridge.

The American Dingo rested peacefully next to the little rock at the top of AB Mountain enjoying her status as the newest member of the Arctic Sisterhood. There were a couple of other rocks nearby competing closely for the title of true summit. After resting up and having some Taste of the Wild, Lupe tagged them, too. No cairn or registry was found.

The clouds parted enough to permit a few brief glimpses off to the NE while Lupe was at true summit of AB Mountain. Photo looks ENE.

The newest official member of the Arctic Sisterhood relaxes at the true summit of AB Mountain.

Looking SSW, the direction Lupe had come from and would have to return.

Final moments in the fog near the true summit of AB Mountain.

It was already early evening when Lupe and SPHP finally left the true summit of AB Mountain in a dark fog. Lupe returned briefly to the cairn at the false summit, but could see nothing.

Looking toward the false summit shortly after starting back. The cairn is up there somewhere. Lupe returned to it briefly. Photo looks S.

Lupe and SPHP hurried on due to the lateness of the hour. The long trek back was a happy one and most enjoyable. The solitude was unbroken. Lupe seemed energized by the cool clouds and now mostly downhill route. She ran and sniffed and explored far more than she had on the way up.

Fog prevailed much of the way, continuing to stream by from out of the WSW. Once in a while there were holes in the clouds. Dramatic glacier-clad mountain views popped into sight. Lupe bathed in sunlight on the beautiful ridge for anywhere from a few seconds to a few minutes before it all disappeared again.

For a long time, Lupe and SPHP worked in dense fog back past all the gashes cutting across the ridge. The Carolina Dog still faced significant down climbs to the NE, especially getting beyond the Hump. Once past all the gashes, Lupe generally stayed right on top of the ridgeline and had more luck finding the best routes. A few well-positioned cairns proved much more helpful pointing out the faint trail now than on the way up.

Lupe was in fog most of the way back down, but every so often holes in the clouds permitted a better look at her surroundings.

Coming to a large snowbank in another gash. Mountains and glaciers pop back into view. Photo looks SE.

Snow break! Time for a bit of frolicking!

Lupe pauses for a look at the valley of the East Fork of the Skagway River. Photo looks SE.

Zoomed in on some of the incredible peaks and glaciers. Photo looks SE.

A good look down a long stretch of the AB Mountain ridge. Lupe had met Sean and Rebecca many hours ago way down at the last lowest bump of the ridge in view on the R. Taiya Inlet is seen faintly beyond Lupe. Photo looks S.

After a while, the clouds became so thick no more breaks appeared. Lupe and SPHP continued lower traveling through dense fog. It wasn’t until Lupe was working her way down the steep section that she lost enough elevation to emerge below the cloud cover.

Lupe could see Skagway now. The Explorer of the Seas and Radiance of the Seas remained in port. Sean and Rebecca were still in Skagway!

It wasn’t until Lupe was way back down to the steep section that she got below the clouds and could see Skagway again. The Explorer of the Seas and Radiance of the Seas were still in port. Sean and Rebecca were still in Skagway! Photo looks SSW.

Any hopes the Carolina Dog might have had of having pizza and drinks with the Riordans were soon dashed, however. The Explorer of the Seas was leaving! Lupe and SPHP stood watching Explorer of the Seas sail S away from Skagway down Taiya Inlet. Sean and Rebecca were probably enjoying their pizza and drinks right this very moment.

30 minutes later, Lupe saw the Radiance of the Seas follow the Explorer of the Seas away from Skagway.

Explorer of the Seas sails away from Skagway starting S down Taiya Inlet. No doubt Sean and Rebecca were aboard enjoying their pizza and drinks right this very minute.

So Lupe never did get to see Sean and Rebecca again. They sailed away on adventures of their own. Lupe’s fabulous expedition up AB Mountain had been successful. The Carolina Dog had made it all the long, long way to the true summit. Lupe had joined the Arctic Sisterhood! Tomorrow would bring another fantastic northern adventure worthy of any official new member.

Down in the dark forest, dusk faded to the unbroken blackness of a starless night. Lupe and SPHP traveled on through the gloom until at long last, the A.B. Mountain sign appeared in the flashlight’s beam at the start of the trail. Lupe crossed the road to the G6, ready for Alpo and dreams of days gone by striking it rich in the faraway Klondike gold fields. (11:16 PM)

New Arctic Sisterhood member, Lupe, reports in at the Arctic Brotherhood hall in Skagway the next morning.

AB Mountain trailhead directions: From the South Klondike Highway (No. 98) take the turn onto Dyea Road (0.5 mile from Skagway, or 4 miles from US Customs). Follow Dyea Road 2 miles. Shortly before reaching the trailhead on the L (S) side of Dyea Road, you will pass a paved parking lot at a pullout on the L with a view of Skagway. Dyea road turns to gravel a little past the pullout, and the trailhead appears soon after on the L (S) side of the road. The trail starts at the A.B. Mountain sign on the other (N) side of the road directly across from the trailhead. The trailhead has room for only 3 or 4 vehicles.