Canada – Page 3 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

North to Alaska – Return of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood! (8-17-22)

Days 19, 20, and Part 1 of Day 21 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-17-22, 7:19 AM, 55ºF, grassy bluff overlooking Kusawa Lake – Rained all night, and was still raining as Loopster got underway again. The 20 km gravel road back to the Alaska Highway was a sea of mud, the poor RAV4 a filthy mess by the time SPHP turned W onto the pavement. When the American Dingo reached Haines Junction, though, the RAV4 was looking shiny and new again, except for the rear end, which the rain hadn’t been able to wash off.

How far are we going today, SPHP?

Dunno, Loop. Depends on how long this rain continues. All the way to Alaska, easy, if it keeps up like this.

Alaska! Today? Are we really that close to Alaska, SPHP?

Yup! Remember when we climbed AB Mountain near Skagway, and you became the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, Loop? We already passed the turn to Skagway before we even got to Whitehorse.

We skipped Skagway? Why? What part of Alaska are we going to, SPHP?

As far N as we can, Looper!

The Brooks Range, SPHP?

And beyond! Deadhorse, sweet puppy! I want to see the North Slope. The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood is returning to the true Arctic! Of course, we won’t get that far in a day, but what’s the rush? We’ll be traveling through some fabulous territory. If things dry out, we’ll be making stops at some great spots you’ll recognize along the way.

N of Haines Junction, it was only 48ºF as SPHP drove past Decoeli. Lost in rain and fog, there was no recognizing that fabulous peak.

8-17-22, 10:02 AM – Only a short time later, the pavement was dry as SPHP made the turn off the highway onto the big pullout at the S end of Kluane Lake. Clouds hung gloomily over Sheep Mountain, but at least it wasn’t raining. A SW wind kicked up dust over in the Slims River valley. A lot of memories here as Lupe took a stroll along the lakeshore.

**Kluane Lake**. **Sheep Mountain** (L). Photo looks NNW.

**Slims River valley** (Center) from **Kluane Lake**. **Sheep Mountain** (R). Photo looks WSW.

So long since the last time Lupe had been here that SPHP decided to stay a while. With a view of the mountains marching away to the N beyond Kluane Lake, SPHP spent a couple of hours working on the trip journal, glancing up now and then to watch the waves roll in. Loop slept on her pink blanket, enjoying the rest after her windy ascent of Kusawa Ridge (5,085 ft.) yesterday.

Taking a second leisurely stroll along the lake before moving on, Lupe went farther this time. The weather was even more unsettled now, the wind picking up, and the waves larger than they’d been earlier. SPHP enjoyed the walk right along the shoreline best, but the Carolina Dog preferred sniffing among the young aspens beyond the beach on the way back to the RAV4.

8-17-22, 1:13 PM, 59ºF – Light rain set in again as the drive N resumed along the W shore of Kluane Lake. This shower was soon left behind, though, and blue sky appeared. Hit 65ºF! For the first time today, a clear view of the mountains to the W was possible. SPHP daydreamed about climbing them, a mountain NW of Burwash Creek looked particularly interesting.

8-17-22, 2:34 PM – Didn’t seem to take hardly any time at all to get here. The weather was kind of crazy. Blue skies were nearly gone again. Cool and breezy, big clouds, dust, and fog filled the sky. Distant views of the St. Elias Mountains to the W vanished almost as soon as Lupe arrived.

However, she could still see one awesome mountain just beyond the Alaska Highway bridge over the Donjek River.

**Donjek Crossing Mountain** from the **Donjek River**. Photo looks E.

Donjek Crossing Mountain, SPHP! Remember when we climbed it? Oh, what a fabulous day that was!

Heh! It was nearly your last day ever, too, Looper, if you recall!

Lunch time! The Donjek River was another favorite spot. Might as well eat here. Loop took strolls down along the river both before and after lunch. The weather continued acting up. Dust, wind, fog, patches of blue sky, intermittent rain drops, and peels of thunder! A bizarro day, but it was fun being here.

Near the mighty **Donjek River**. Photo looks SSW.

Enjoying all natural mineral water from the silt-laden **Donjek**. Photo looks SSW.

SPHP completely caught up the trip journal. Tempting to stay right here, but it wasn’t that late in the day yet, and Alaska was calling!

Onward! Puppy, ho!

8-17-22, 5:46 PM – Another magnificent river wasn’t that much farther N, one Lupe had never really spent much time at, since it wasn’t as easily accessible as the Donjek. Skies were only partly cloudy when she got to the White River, so taking this opportunity to scout it out a little better seemed in order.

Horsecamp Hill (4,600 ft.) had been on Lupe’s list of possibilities for years, and SPHP wanted to get a better look at it, too. Might be some awesome views from up there, if it wasn’t too heavily forested.

**White River** upstream view. Photo looks S.

Downstream view of the **White River**. **Horsecamp Hill** (L). Photo looks N.

N of the White River, SPHP was surprised at the number of potholes and stretches of gravel. The Alaska Highway had deteriorated in the past few years. All still perfectly passable, though, at somewhat reduced speeds.

8-17-22, 7:03 PM – Well, actually 6:03 PM Alaska time! Lupe was here!

Entering **Alaska** for the first time in 3 years!

This is a terrific sign, SPHP! Why haven’t we ever stopped here before?

Because I never thought to look for a Welcome to Alaska sign until after we went through US Customs, Loop, and this sign comes just before it.

8-17-22, 6:13 PM – After 2 questions, the customs agent returned SPHP’s passport, wishing Lupe a good day.

Congratulations Miss Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood! You’re in!

Thank you, SPHP! That was easy!

As always! Helps that you’ve got an innocent, trustworthy face, Loop!

92 miles to Tok! A peaceful evening drive through a region of low hills ensued. Tall, thin, Dr. Suess-like trees of the boreal forest extended far and away on both sides of the Alaska Highway.

8-17-22, 8:00 PM – Missed it! Turning around, SPHP drove back to a big, paved pullout less than 25 miles from Tok. Not a soul here other than an annoying number of mosquitoes. Not much of a view, either, but this would do for the night.

8-18-22, 7:12 AM, 58ºF – Clear and sunny in Tok! Compared to what it had been in Canada, cheap gas, too. At a mere $4.769 per gallon, SPHP filled the RAV4 completely.

Lupe had only been on the last stretch of the Alaska Highway from Tok to Delta Junction once before, and SPHP had little recollection of it. This was not mountainous territory, most of the drive merely hilly to pancake flat. Highlights included bridges over 3 rivers, the Robertson, Johnson, and Gerstle. Large, braided streams, they were somewhat reminiscent of the Donjek and White.

8-18-22, 9:53 AM – N of Delta Junction, SPHP stopped at a pullout along the Tanana River. Time to get out, have a look, and sniff the air for a few minutes. No sooner had Lupe ventured over to the river’s edge than a couple of boys came running over. They asked a million questions about Lupe, wanted to pet her, and were anxious to show SPHP a couple of sticks they had been whittling with jack knives.

New found friends by the **Tanana River**.

Gray with silt, the Tanana was like all the other big rivers Lupe had been seeing. Snow-capped peaks beyond it were an inspiring sight, but a long way off. A few miles later, another pullout on a bluff provided a better overall view of the Tanana River itself.

Magnificent, unidentified peaks beyond the **Tanana River**.

The American Dingo went into a barking frenzy prompted by low-flying jets near Eielson AFB. North Pole wasn’t much farther, and Fairbanks was just beyond that.

Beneath sunny skies with puffy white clouds, Lupe reached Fairbanks for the first time in 5 years before noon. Last chance to to resupply and fuel up with cheap gas! Free potable water at Pioneer Park, too. Once those tasks were taken care of, the Carolina Dog was free to move on. Everything was going according to plan. Only one problem.

Decision time, Loop.

About what, SPHP?

About where to go, Looper.

I thought we already knew? We’re heading N, right, SPHP?

That was the plan, but now I’m not so sure. Checked the weather forecast for Coldfoot when we got into town. It’s completely flipped from the last forecast the iPhone gave me back in Whitehorse 3 days ago. Coldfoot was supposed to be sunny and clear for a whole week. Now that we’ve come all this way, it’s saying 90% chance of rain today, 70% tomorrow, and cloudy for days after that.

Well, what are our options, SPHP?

We could delay our jaunt N by a couple of days, Loop. The forecast looks a little better down here. Pinnell Mountain (4,934 ft.) is NE out the Steese Highway. Might be fun?

You decide, SPHP! I’m happy either way.

After dithering for half an hour, SPHP made a questionable decision, continuing due N at Fox.

The drive to Livengood was beautiful! Elliot Highway No. 2 wound up and down heavily forested ridges separated by deep valleys. Not much traffic, except some big trucks. Knew where those were coming from!

8-18-22, 5:21 PM – Blinking in the late afternoon sunshine, Lupe stood in front of a sign she hadn’t seen in nearly 5 years. Must have rained not too long ago, because the pullout in front of it was muddy.

At the **start of the 414 mile long Dalton Highway**.

Naturally, the Dalton Highway was damp and muddy in spots, too. The rear end of the RAV4 was soon on its way back to being a filthy mess, but that was to be expected sooner or later on the Dalton even in the best of times. The drive was awesome! Occasional sprinkles from silver-lined clouds, the pale blue sky of the far N over dark green forests, and from some of the highest ridges, views of distant hills and mountains of the trackless wilderness.

After not having been here for so many years, it was like returning to a world once glimpsed in a long forgotten dream.

Near MP40. Out for a short stroll along the scenic **Dalton Highway**.

8-18-22, 7:00 PM – MP56! Lupe stood at the upper end of the bridge over the Yukon River, first big scenic landmark along the Dalton Highway. Although traffic was only intermittent, it wasn’t a good idea to stand there too long. A quick photo, and SPHP called her back.

On the **Dalton Highway bridge over the Yukon River**. Photo looks NNE.

Much safer to check out the mighty Yukon River from the N bank. After driving over the bridge, SPHP parked the RAV4 near an old friend, the Alaska oil pipeline. Lupe was happy to see it again before wandering over to the river for a look.

By the **Alaska oil pipeline**. Photo looks N.

**Dalton Highway bridge** from the N bank. Photo looks SW.

Down by the **N bank**. Photo looks SSE.

Evening along the **Yukon River**. Photo looks WNW.

Lemon pepper chicken! Now that was tasty, SPHP!

Guess I should have bought 2 of them in Fairbanks, Loop. We ate the whole thing!

Full of chicken, the lovely evening drive N continued.

8-18-22, 8:53 PM, MP98 – Must have rained hard here within the last hour. The last few miles of the Dalton Highway before SPHP made the turn into the Finger Mountain Wayside were a sloppy mess full of big mud puddles. Somewhere the sun was still up, but Lupe couldn’t see it due to all the dark clouds toward the N.

Finger Mountain (2,202 ft.), SPHP! We’ve got to climb it!

Absolutely, sweet puppy! Let’s go!

Finger Mountain’s summit was practically right there, only a short stroll N of the rest area. A nature trail wound up a small hill to the dramatic rock formation at the very top. The air was cool and moist, on the chilly side, actually, as SPHP took the long way around reading various plaques about the flora along the way.

Two ravens flew off as Lupe began the tiny scramble to the summit. SPHP had no intention of getting up there, but was more than willing to provide the American Dingo with the required, slightly nerve-wracking, final boost.

On **Finger Mountain** again for the first time in nearly 5 years. Photo looks NW.

Oh, my gosh, SPHP! Can’t believe I’m here on Finger Mountain again!

I know! Seems so strange, and yet so familiar, doesn’t it? You’ve almost done it, too. Only 17 miles to the Arctic Circle from here. The return of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood is nearly complete!

I’ve been neglecting my Arctic Sisterhood duties for a long time, SPHP, but it wasn’t my fault. All Covid-19’s fault!

Tell me about it, Loop! None of that matters now, though, we’re back! This is as far as we’re going tonight, though. Your all new adventures in the true Arctic start tomorrow, weather permitting, of course.

As the evening sky demonstrated, that last part was somewhat in doubt. After helping Lupe down off Finger Mountain’s summit, a stroll was taken across the Dalton Highway to another, smaller rock outcropping with a view of Caribou Mountain (3,179 ft.) off to the WNW.

Remember our long journey to Caribou Mountain, Loop? Nobody goes there.

How can I ever forget, SPHP? It was all grand, until the very end.

Oh, yeah! We got soaked, didn’t we?

I sure did, SPHP. At least you had your old blue Cookie Monster outfit!

8-19-22, early – SPHP opened an eye. Lupe was peering out the window of the RAV4 into a thick, gray fog.

You’re awake, SPHP? Good! Can you let me out for a few minutes?

Sure thing, Loop. Need to sniff the air?

The Carolina Dog needed to do more than that. Once out of the RAV4, Lupe puked along the perimeter of the wayside parking lot. Not a lot, just a little.

Queasy, aye, Looper? Too much lemon pepper chicken? Don’t worry about it. Unless this fog dissipates, we won’t be going anywhere for a while.

Returning to the RAV4, Lupe got back up onto her pink blanket. Clearly, a morning snooze was in order. By the time Loop woke up again, the fog had a blue tinge to it, and a bright spot revealed the position of the sun.

How ya feeling, Loopster?

Much better, SPHP, thank you!

Good! Looks like this fog is about to break up. Feel up to climbing Finger Mountain again?

It’s so easy, I might as well log another ascent while we’re still here, SPHP. After all, not very often that I get the chance. We ought to visit Finger Rock, too!

That’s the spirit! You must be feeling better, Loop. Glad to see it!

8-19-22, 8:24 AM – In weak sunshine, Lupe stood atop Finger Mountain once again. She stayed there only long enough for SPHP to get photos from a couple of different angles before helping her back down again.

Back atop **Finger Mountain**. Photo looks W.

The most dramatic angle. Photo looks SSW.

The greater **Finger Mountain summit region**. Photo looks NNE.

How was it up there, Loop? Still feeling good enough to visit Finger Rock?

I’m fine now, SPHP. Let’s do it!

Finger Rock, which Finger Mountain is named for, was 0.5 mile SSE of the true summit Lupe had already visited. Bushes along an intermittent use path leading to it were soaking wet, and noticeably taller than the only other time Lupe had visited Finger Rock years ago. By the time she got to it again, the Carolina Dog mighty soggy, too.

Plaque about Finger Mountain and Finger Rock.

Approaching **Finger Rock** (L). Photo looks SSE.

Since Finger Rock wasn’t the summit of anything other than itself, Lupe contented herself with a little light scrambling around on the big rocks near its base. Finger Rock looked quite different, tall and skinny, or kind of fat and stout, depending on the angle of view.

Content with her morning inspection of famous Finger Rock, Lupe headed back to the Finger Mountain Wayside.

8-19-22, 9:46 AM – From a boulder near the summit of Finger Mountain, Lupe scanned the Kanuti River basin. Still quite cloudy that way.

**Kanuti River Basin** (R) from **Finger Mountain**. Photo looks N.

Just think! We can see more than 2/3 of the remaining distance to the Arctic Circle from here, Loop. Is the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood ready to resume her adventures in the true Arctic?

I can hardly wait, SPHP! Been waiting for this day for a long, long time!

Me, too, Loopster! Me, too!

On **Finger Mountain**, Yukon-Koyukuk Ranges, Alaska 8-18-22.

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

BLM Dalton Highway Visitor Guide

AB Mountain – Lupe Joins the Arctic Sisterhood, Skagway, Alaska (8-7-17).

Slope Mountain and Highlights of the Dalton Highway Revisited (8-22-17 & 8-23-17)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Kusawa Ridge, Kluane Plateau, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-16-22)

Days 17 & 18 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-15-22, 12:40 PM, 64ºF – After an early constitutional along the ridge overlooking the N end of Atlin Lake, Lupe spent the rest of the morning snoozing peacefully on her pink blanket in the RAV4. Tiring of the trip journal, SPHP put it away. Enough of that! Time to move on.

Cloudy and cooler today, so not much was in the works. Driving N on Hwy No. 7, SPHP eventually turned W on the Alaska Highway. After a couple of stops for supplies and fuel ($1.859 CAN/liter) in Whitehorse, Eclipse Nordic Hot Springs was next.

I’m hungry, SPHP! Can you at least give me something good to eat before you treat only yourself to the hot springs?

Hah! You’re in luck, Loop! Picked up a barbecued chicken in Whitehorse. Let’s do it some damage before I go get cleaned up.

I’ll gladly help you with that chicken, SPHP! Say, this place looks vaguely familiar. Have we been here before?

Yes, several times. Used to be Takhini Hot Springs, but since we were last here a few years ago, they tore that facility down. Their fancy schmancy brand new one is open now with its glittery new name.

After hiring the water taxi to take us to Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.), can you still afford it, SPHP? Looks pretty ritzy.

Hope so. If not, I’ll be back sooner than you think, Looper.

Splurge, if you have to, SPHP. Removing a few layers of that topsoil you’re wearing wouldn’t hurt a thing!

SPHP did splurge. Eclipse Nordic Hot Springs was now quite a swanky joint compared to the old Takhini Hot Springs. Sadly, prices reflected this change, but management clearly had a considerable investment to recoup. SPHP spent the better part of an hour soaking in the largest of 3 hot pools to choose from. Medium hot, it was the clear favorite of today’s guests.

How was it, SPHP? I must say, you do sniff a lot better now!

Very relaxing, Loop. Enjoyed it! Best to get here early in the day, though, if you want to save money. Paid the $29 CAN afternoon price. Only $19 CAN in the morning, $39 CAN in the evening. That’s my hot pool, hot tip of the day for Whitehorse travelers!

Felt fantastic to be clean again! Returning to the Alaska Highway, SPHP continued the drive W.

8-15-22, 8:41 PM – The turn S off the Alaska Highway came 65 km W of Whitehorse on a wide gravel road 2 km past a rest area. The RAV4 was now close to 20 km in, parked on a bluff overlooking Kusawa Lake. The sky was still gray and glum, but Lupe was in fine spirits.

Wow! We get to stay here tonight, SPHP? Look at how close we are to the lake!

Yup! Kusawa Lake is a lot bigger than it looks, too, Loop. We’re not far from where the Takhini River flows out the N end, so we only see a small fraction of it here. Kusawa Lake is one of these unbelievably long, skinny Canadian lakes that winds for miles back into the mountains.

Oh! Are we going to take another water taxi tomorrow then, SPHP?

Nope. Weather permitting, the plan is to climb Kusawa Ridge (5,085 ft.). It’s a popular hike only a few km from here to get to a big view of the lake from on high. Actually hoping we’ll be able to go on to Peak 6400+, too. Should be some great alpine territory to roam, if we can get that far.

I love the alpine tundra, SPHP!

I know! Me, too, Loop. Ready for dinner yet? With this S breeze coming off the lake, don’t think it makes sense to try to heat anything up. We could polish off the rest of the barbeque chicken, though.

If I must, I must, SPHP. Bring it on!

8-16-22 – Morning didn’t bring much of a change. Beneath an overcast sky, the air was cool, a chilly breeze still sweeping across Kusawa Lake. By 11:00 AM, though, the day was starting to brighten and warm up. Sick of writing, SPHP stashed the trip journal again.

Sort of a late start, Looper, but maybe now’s our chance! Kusawa Ridge?

The American Dingo was all for it.

8-16-22 – Driving S past a campground, the main road came to a “T”. Consulting directions, SPHP turned R (W). After going around a bend, the road continued S. An ancient cabin soon appeared on the L (E), just before a bridge over a good-sized stream. SPHP parked the RAV4 in an empty spot big enough for several vehicles opposite the cabin.

Lupe leapt out. No signage at all, but, sure enough, a wide path headed W into the forest.

At the “T” in the main road where SPHP turned R.

The cabin directly opposite the Kusawa Ridge trailhead.

8-16-22, 12:03 PM, 61ºF, Kusawa Ridge trailhead – The sun was trying to break through the cloud cover as Lupe set off. Happily, just enough of a breeze here to keep the bugs away. The Carolina Dog barely got started on the broad, smooth path when she came to a small, sandy clearing with a stone campfire ring.

One minute in at the campfire ring. Photo looks W.

The level path went right on past the campfire ring, and the American Dingo did, too. Lupe hadn’t gone much farther when the path began veering N (R). Seemed a bit odd, since the route to Kusawa Ridge was supposed to follow the stream off to the S. However, the path was clear and wide, and SPHP hadn’t noticed any other.

Anticipating this jog N was temporary, SPHP expected the trail to curve SW back toward the stream at any moment. Instead, it persisted in its course N. When Lupe got so far that the stream couldn’t be heard any more, SPHP became suspicious.

Hang on, Loop! This can’t be right! We’re going the wrong way.

We’re lost already, SPHP? We’ve barely started!

I know, but I just assumed this big, wide path was the way to go. Instead, we’re heading directly away from the stream we’re supposed to follow.

Well, what about this path, SPHP? Maybe this is the way, or would you rather go back to the stream?

For the first time, SPHP noticed a side trail Lupe had spotted that headed WSW off the main one.

Never mind! This must be the way, Loop! Glad you saw it!

Taking the faint side trail, it wound mostly W or SW through an open forest full of scattered boulders and a fair amount of deadfall. Gradually gaining elevation, the terrain was interesting, allowing Lupe to explore a series of small ridges and valleys. At times the trail nearly faded away completely, but with careful examination, it was always found again.

On one of the largest boulders in the forest. Photo looks WNW.

Following the crest of a minor ridge. Photo looks NW.

Something still wasn’t right! The Kusawa Ridge route was supposed to start off following the stream for 1.6 km, but the trail went on and on, and Lupe still couldn’t even hear it. Well, no matter. Sooner or later, she’d either have to run into the stream, or Kusawa Ridge itself.

Sure enough, the American Dingo finally did reach a steep bank, nearly a cliff, overlooking the stream. There was a much clearer trail here.

Back on track along the **N bank of the stream**. Photo looks SE.

Alright, think we’re back on track now, SPHP!

Yeah, we must have messed up somehow way back near the start, Loop. Think the faint route we followed here must be the way other lost souls have gone, too. Maybe we can figure it all out on the way back?

No worries, SPHP! The way we went was fine. I enjoyed it! Onward!

Turned out, Lupe had rediscovered the main trail only a short distance from the base of Kusawa Ridge. Here, a gritty path started up a very steep slope. After an initial climb, things got easier, improving further as the Carolina Dog reached young aspens up on the broad ridge.

Near the top of the initial gritty climb at the **toe of Kusawa Ridge**. Photo looks N.

Just getting started! **Kusawa Lake** and **Mount Coudert** on the opposite shore. Photo looks SE.

The Kusawa Ridge trail featured a few level stretches, but most of the time, Lupe climbed at a good clip as the trail wound through the aspens past scenic boulders of moderate size. Curiously enough, the trail itself wasn’t particularly rocky.

The day was now sunny and warm. SPHP was shedding layers. Loop soon felt overheated in her fur coat, too, and began pawing SPHP’s legs wanting to stop. Coming to a slab of bedrock in the shade of a spruce tree, a short break was taken. While SPHP finished stripping down to a T-shirt, Lupe had a drink of water, followed up with some Taste of the Wild. SPHP munched on trail mix.

No one had been at the trailhead, and Lupe hadn’t seen anyone since then, either, but soon voices could be heard below. Apparently a nice, sunny day meant company. Setting off again before anyone appeared, Lupe continued up the ridge.

The climb up Kusawa Ridge (5,085 ft.) was straightforward. Beneath a bright blue sky and puffy white clouds, Lupe followed the trail NNW, steadily gaining elevation. Two big knobs were soon visible ahead. As the American Dingo continued higher, Peak 6400+ came into view past the deep valley the creek went up.

The two big knobs come into view. Photo looks NW.

**Peak 6400+** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

Approaching the two knobs. Photo looks NNW.

People were now visible coming up the trail, but Lupe maintained her lead. The first knob turned out to be merely a flatter region wider than the rest of the ridge. Looked like there might be some nice viewpoints overlooking Kusawa Lake off to the E, but the Carolina Dog didn’t check them out. Most of the trail already offered great views of the lake.

Continuing toward the second knob, the trail crossed an unusual region of exposed bedrock before starting to climb more steeply again. By now, blue sky was vanishing, and the breeze suddenly felt colder and stronger with each step. No longer T-shirt weather, SPHP began layering up.

On the exposed bedrock, heading for the second knob. Photo looks NNW.

Approaching the second knob, the terrain got steeper and rockier, Lupe made good progress climbing a grassier slope W of rock formations. It began to look like the American Dingo would reach the top any minute now, but higher ground kept appearing ahead.

Approaching some rock formations. Photo looks NNW.

Climbing the second knob. Photo looks NNW.

By now the trail was only intermittent. There was no top to the second knob. It was all an illusion! Lupe kept climbing from one false summit to the next. Continuing to gain strength, the wind felt colder and colder. Loopster finally reached a flat region. A depression surrounded by tall vegetation appeared to be the dried up remnant of a small tarn.

Although it was tempting to seek shelter from the wind here, Loop kept going, skirting around the E side of the depression without entering it.

Still climbing. Not enjoying the wind. Photo looks NW.

The depression was nearly the end. Climbing the hill beyond it among dark rocks, the terrain then began to flatten out, the rate of climb greatly diminished. Lupe reached a series of minor false summits. A top was now visible ahead. Two of them, actually, but the American Dingo didn’t need to get to HP5949, the much higher and more distant one. She was already nearly to the region considered the high point of Kusawa Ridge.

**HP5929** (L of Center). Area considered the **high point of Kusawa Ridge** directly ahead. Photo looks NNW.

8-16-22, 3:15 PM, 46ºF, Kusawa Ridge (5,085 ft.) – The wind was 30-35 mph out of the SW as Lupe reached a cairn. The absolute high point of this region was still a few minutes farther, but the wind was so chilly and annoying, the Carolina Dog didn’t go all the way to it right away.

Instead, after paying the cairn a brief visit, she headed over to the E side of the ridge, descending a little bit to escape the worst of the wind. This was where the best views of Kusawa Lake were, anyway.

By the cairn. **HP5949** (L). Photo looks N.

**Kusawa Lake** from the E edge. Photo looks SSE.

While taking a short break here, a boy or 8 or 9 arrived at the cairn with his father. Spotting Lupe, the boy came running over wanting to pet her, an act of kindness the Carolina Dog was happy to oblige. The boy and his father soon left, though, after a few quick photos. Lupe and SPHP were alone again in the wild breeze beneath a dark sky.

The views were impressive, although perhaps not at their finest on such a gloomy day. Lupe could see the entire 9 mile long N section of Kusawa Lake, all the way S from where the Takhini River left it at the N end clear down to where the lake curved out of sight behind the mountains.

**Takhini River** (L), **N end of Takhini Lake** (R). **Peak 6212** (beyond Lupe) and **Vanier Peak (6,049 ft.)** (R) with **Mount Ingram (7,047 ft.)** in the distance between them. **Peak 6995** (far R). Photo looks NE.

**Kusawa Lake** from the break spot. Photo looks SSE.

Hard to believe we’re only seeing a fraction of the lake from here, SPHP!

True enough, though, Loop! This is only about a third of Kusawa Lake.

Still say we need a water taxi to really explore it then, SPHP.

Would be fun, Loop, but don’t believe there are any water taxis here.

As soon as the short rest break was over, Lupe continued NNW to tag the true summit of Kusawa Ridge.

Looking back at the **first cairn** (Center) before heading off to the true summit. Photo looks SSW.

8-16-22, 3:44 PM, 46ºF, Kusawa Ridge – The true summit proved to be a minor rise of exposed bedrock with a small cairn and other loose rocks on it. A huge, light gray boulder sitting farther N near the E edge bore a cairn, too, and was almost as high. Lupe visited both, requiring a boost from SPHP to get up onto the boulder.

At the **true summit of Kusawa Ridge**. **Boulder** (L). Photo looks NNE.

**Kusawa Lake** from the **true summit**. Photo looks SSE.

On the light gray boulder. **True summit** (R). Photo looks SSE.

The views from the boulder were marvelous, but nearly identical to those at the break spot back near the first big cairn. After spending only a minute or two enjoying them, Lupe leapt down. One more high spot to visit! A short stroll W got her to a slightly elevated region of tundra and scattered rocks. No cairns, but this area was in contention for the title of true summit, too.

At the **NW high point of Kusawa Ridge**. **HP5949** (R of Center). Photo looks NW.

Having little prominence, none of these Kusawa Ridge high points really meant much. Lupe stood on this last one facing W. Across a deep valley, Peak 6400+ was more than 1,300 feet higher than where she was now.

**Peak 6400+** (R of Center). Photo looks W.

Not a tree or bush in sight! Peak 6400+ was just a big rounded hill. Lupe surveyed a vast region of open tundra that swept around to it, and even way beyond to other big hills. It was all just the sort of fabulous alpine territory the American Dingo would ordinarily love to explore.

That had been the plan when the day was sunny and warm. Venture on from Kusawa Ridge to the big saddle SW of HP5949, then head up Peak 6400+’s long NW slope clear to the summit. Getting there would be a breeze, and Loopster would have such fun!

A breeze? More like a gale, SPHP! At 30-35 mph down here, no telling what kind of hurricane we’d run into up there! Not doing it! At least, not today! You’ve got a nice, new rain jacket, but what about me? If it starts raining, I’ll be soaked to the skin and freezing cold! Do you want me to catch pneumonia?

The American Dingo was right. Conditions were borderline unpleasant already. Continuing on to Peak 6400+ was asking for trouble. If it did start to rain, misery and hypothermia would almost certainly result. Couldn’t rule it out, either, with the sky the way it was.

Reluctantly, a mere 35 minutes after Lupe reached the first big cairn, SPHP conceded the point. May as well start back.

While still in the high country, SPHP couldn’t help but gaze SW over to the many peaks Lupe might easily explore under better conditions.

Unexplored territory made for adventure! Photo looks SW.

If we ever come back, we could bring the tiny house with us, Looper. A few days worth of supplies, and you could roam for miles!

Keep Peak 6400+ on my list of possibilities, SPHP! Maybe someday we will!

The rather steep descent was easy and went fast, enjoying a fabulous view of Kusawa Lake ahead nearly all the way. Not far from the top, Lupe did check out the depression this time around. It truly did offer some protection from the wind.

Loss of elevation did, too. The sky remained cloudy during the descent, but conditions steadily improved. The wind died down, the air warmed up, and SPHP was shedding layers again.

Back down to a more hospitable clime. Photo looks SSE.

Once off Kusawa Ridge, this time, Lupe managed to follow the correct trail all the rest of the way back to the trailhead. It stayed much closer to the stream than the one erroneously taken on the way up. For a while it ran right along the edge of the steep N bank. Several times SPHP had to grab hold of trees in order to get past sections that had collapsed into stream’s gaping, rocky ravine.

Most of the time, though, the trail stayed a little N of the ravine back in the forest. The route was confusing, braided, and difficult to follow in places, which SPHP found surprising. Looper, on the other paw, loved how it wound around, and often led the way.

Very curious on exactly where this route had been missed on the way up, SPHP was surprised again when Lupe suddenly came to the stone campfire ring in the sandy clearing only a minute from the trailhead. The correct path, which veered toward the L (SW) here on the way in, was unmarked, and not at all obvious. No wonder!

8-16-22, 5:16 PM, 62ºF, Kusawa Ridge trailhead – Perfect timing! Two minutes after Lupe leapt back into the RAV4, it started to sprinkle. SPHP drove N back to the same flat, grassy bluff overlooking Kusawa Lake where she’d spent last night. The wind was blowing this way across the lake again, making heating anything up for dinner a pain.

Back at the grassy bluff overlooking **Kusawa Lake**. Photo looks S.

Want to share a can of salmon, Loop? I don’t have to cook that.

You know I love salmon, SPHP!

Sharing salmon and Ritz crackers, Lupe and SPHP watched a storm move in. Sprinkles gave way to mist. Dusk brought whitecaps as rain swept Kusawa Lake, and a steady patter began on the roof of the RAV4.

Good thing Lupe hadn’t gone on to Peak 6400+, but at least she’d made it to Kusawa Ridge!

On **Kusawa Ridge**, Kluane Plateau, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-16-22

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Birch Mountain on Teresa Island, Skagway Ranges, British Columbia, Canada – Part 2: Base Camp to the Summit! (8-13-22)

Days 15 & 16 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-13-22, after midnight, 5,300 foot base camp on Teresa Island – The light of a waning, still nearly full moon was shining on the back side of the tiny house. Looking out front, the sky was light to the N as well, the sun stealthily slinking around to the E not too far below the horizon. A few distant red lights were blinking a bit N of where Atlin had to be, but the little town itself wasn’t in sight.

Only the brightest stars were visible in the moonlit sky. Polaris and the Big Dipper stood out. Comfortably mild, the air was dead calm. The tiny house didn’t flap at all. Inside, Lupe was zonked.

Not SPHP! Stirred by this incredible scene, the awesome feeling of being so high and alone on Teresa Island, and the American Dingo’s fabulous prospects for actually getting to the summit of Birch Mountain (6,765 feet) today, SPHP couldn’t get back to sleep.

That was a problem. With cloudiness in the forecast, SPHP resolved to get up as soon as the sun did. Better minimize any chance Lupe would arrive at the summit too late, only to find the certain to be spectacular views lost in fog. Yet laying there thinking for hours, this worry seemed overblown. So far, not a cloud was to be seen in the beautiful night sky.

8-13-22, 7:53 AM, 5,300 foot base camp on Teresa Island – Suddenly, the sun was well above the horizon! A bit of a breeze stirred the air, and clouds were now visible in the distance, mostly to the S and E.

Loop, wake up!

Huh? What’s wrong, SPHP?

I overslept! We’ve got to get going! Here, have some Taste of the Wild while I get the pack ready.

A gorgeous morning! Conditions weren’t threatening at all, but SPHP hurried, anyway, unhappy at having slept in. Just dumb!

Emerging from the tiny house, about ready to take off, there was that stunning view of Atlin Lake to the N, with Mount Minto (6,913 ft.) and Mount Hitchcock (5,886 ft.) standing as sentinels near the far end, and Atlin Mountain (6,722 ft.) much closer to the NW.

**Atlin Mountain** (L). **Mount Minto** (Center) and **Mount Hitchcock** (R of Center) in the distance. Photo looks N.

Oh, SPHP! It isn’t a dream, we’re really here, way up on Teresa Island! This is going to be one of our most wonderful days ever!

Believe you’re right, Loopster! Let’s make sure of it. Onward! Puppy ho!

Turning S, Lupe scrambled up the 6 foot high escarpment sheltering the tiny house to the gently sloping plain covered with low bushes above. Birch Mountain’s true summit 2.2 miles SSW wasn’t in sight yet. To get there, the Carolina Dog was going to have to circle around the S end of the deep valley to the W.

Setting off for Birch Mountain’s true summit! Photo looks SSW.

Wildflowers near base camp. Photo looks SSW.

Keep going S, SPHP?

Yup. We’ve got to go over HP6129, that big hill we saw yesterday, Loop.

HP6129 was a mile away, maybe more, and wasn’t in sight yet, either. This jaunt was uphill all the way, of course, but at an easy to moderate pace. Roaming the vast, gentle slope, Lupe was soon past the greenest regions of low bushes and wildflowers, and into rockier terrain.

Heading up the rocky slope. Photo looks SSW.

Progress was excellent on this open ground. Both HP6129 and the top of Birch Mountain soon came into view. SPHP was surprised to see 2 tall, dark pylons up on HP6129.

**HP6129** (L), **Birch Mountain summit** (R). Photo looks SSW.

Keep going S, Loop, but angle off toward the W a bit, too.

You mean over to the edge of the big valley, SPHP?

Yup! Let’s get a look at Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.) from there.

Reaching the edge of the canyon, Birch Mountain was fully on display.

**Birch Mountain** (Center). **HP6621** (L). Photo looks SW.

Wow! Isn’t Birch Mountain beautiful, SPHP? An easy climb, too!

Absolutely stunning, Loop! Never thought we’d see this! Shouldn’t have any trouble getting over there, either. We did the hard part yesterday.

Clouds were now spreading across the sky, but they were thin and high. Everything was fine. The only worrisome sign was a little puff of fog hanging over HP6621 less than a km SE of Birch Mountain’s summit.

We better keep going, Loop!

The last part of the trek up to HP6129 was steeper and rockier. Not at all difficult, though. Lupe spotted a ptarmigan among the rocks. Reaching HP6129, the American Dingo found herself on a flat, open plain of sparse vegetation and modest-sized rocks.

The dark green pylons were just off to the E now, but with a line of little puffs of gray forming between HP6621 and Birch Mountain’s summit, SPHP thought it unwise to spend any time checking them out. Ignoring the pylons, Lupe continued S across the plateau.

Near the pylons on **HP6129**. Photo looks ESE.

Crossing the **HP6129 plateau**. **HP6621** (Center), **Birch Mountain summit** (R). Photo looks SW.

From the S edge of the HP6129 plateau, Lupe began a gradual descent SSW toward the saddle leading to HP6621. A long line of of rocky hills sporting snowfields was now in sight extending SE from HP6621.

Heading for **HP6621** (R of Center). Photo looks SSW.

The line of **rocky hills SE of HP6621**. Photo looks SE.

Wow, look at how much territory there is to explore, SPHP!

We’ve seen it from afar many times, Loopster. Birch Mountain is huge, and Teresa Island is even larger. No telling how many days we could spend exploring the whole thing, if we had a way to resupply.

That would be a blast, SPHP!

Sure would, Looper! Let’s concentrate on our objective, though. These clouds are starting to worry me.

The string of clouds between HP6621 and Birch Mountain’s summit was becoming more persistent. Now and then, it all sailed off to the NE, and both peaks were in sunshine. Yet the clouds kept reforming, as though the mountain itself was remanufacturing them.

Speed might be important! Happily, this was super easy terrain all the way down to the low point of the saddle leading to HP6621. Traveling along the edge of the enormous canyon NE of Birch Mountain’s summit, Lupe paused occasionally to take in the incredible views.

Along the edge of the canyon at the saddle leading to **HP6621** (L). **Birch Mountain summit** (R). Photo looks SW.

Clouds sweeping over **HP6621**. **Birch Mountain summit** (R). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

The canyon view. **Atlin Mountain** (L). **Torres Channel of Atlin Lake** (Center) with **Mount Minto** beyond. **Mount Hitchcock** (R) in the distance. **W edge of HP6129** (far R). Photo looks N.

The top of HP6621 was at least temporarily in sight, as Lupe started for it. The ground was rockier now, and became increasingly so. Except for the black lichens of the far N, vegetation vanished completely during the scramble up to HP6621‘s N ridge.

Heading for **HP6621** (R). Photo looks SW.

Scrambling up to **HP6621‘s N ridge**. Photo looks WSW.

Once up on the ridgeline, unexpected patches of dirt and tundra formed a lane leading higher. As Lupe approached the top of HP6621, the sky cleared to a brilliant blue.

On **HP6621‘s N ridge**. Photo looks SSW.

8-13-22, 9:55 AM – Unprotected up here from a chilly 20 mph SW wind, moments later, Lupe reached HP6621 in a dense fog. Couldn’t see a darn thing except the ground at her paws! Expecting it to clear again almost instantly, a 5 minute wait produced no change. SPHP was dismayed!

Oh, my gosh, Lupe! We’re 2 minutes too late? Criminy! We should have been here hours ago. How could I have slept in like that, knowing it was supposed to cloud up today?

So, why did you sleep in, SPHP? The plan was to get up at first light!

I was so excited about Birch Mountain, I was awake half the night, Loop. Then like an idiot, I pass out at the end! Next thing I know, it’s 8:00 AM, and you’re still dead to the world!

I was just getting my beauty rest, SPHP! Besides, it was a long way up to base camp yesterday. I was tired. Weren’t you supposed to wake me up? Anyway, you’re overly excited. It was sunny less than 10 minutes ago, let’s wait a little longer. It’ll clear off again.

Oh, no we don’t! We’re not waiting here! Conditions have deteriorated all morning. Might easily keep getting worse. I sure hope not! If we do get a break, we want to be on top of Birch Mountain when it happens. Onward! Puppy, ho!

Visibility had already improved to a few hundred feet as Lupe started down HP6621‘s W ridge. Vegetation faded and rocks grew in size. Loop was soon scrambling among talus. The ridge narrowed. Progress was much slower here, but there wasn’t any great rush in these conditions.

On **HP6621**, about to head down the W ridge (Center). Photo looks W.

As Lupe approached the big curve where the ridge swept around to the N toward Birch Mountain’s hidden summit, a huge snowfield came into view nestled on the sheltered NE side of the ridge. A little turquoise blue tarn was visible at its base.

The snow came right up close to the top of the ridge, curving right along with it, but didn’t extend onto or over the ridge at any point. The steep, slippery edge was incredibly dangerous, but even though the ridge got pretty skinny, it remained wide enough to avoid having to venture out onto the snow at all.

Following **HP6621‘s W ridge** as the snowfield comes into view. Photo looks NW.

Fog streamed by as Lupe continued her scramble among the talus. She hadn’t lost much elevation, when suddenly glimpses of Atlin Lake and the S end of Teresa Island began appearing.

A hint of what’s out there. Photo looks SSW.

For 15 minutes, the views came and went, but showed improvement each time. The whole S end of Teresa Island appeared, surrounded by Atlin Lake. Many much smaller islands could be seen, and eventually the Llewellyn Glacier was in sight, too, beyond the S end of the lake.

**S end of Atlin Lake** and the **Llewellyn Glacier** (Center). Photo looks SSW.

**Atlin Lake** and the **Llewellyn Glacier** (R of Center). Photo looks SSW with help from the telephoto lens.

Zoomed in on the **Llewellyn Glacier**. Photo looks SSW.

A moment of exquisite beauty and clarity arrived, then vanished like a dream, as fog reformed and swept in again.

**S end of Teresa Island**, **Atlin Lake**, and the **Llewellyn Glacier**. Photo looks SW.

The ridge narrowed. Lupe faced some minor ups and downs. The low point came at a notch where the rocks were quite large, but still easily maneuvered among with a bit of caution. Regaining a little elevation, tundra reappeared as the ridge turned N and broadened out again.

Conditions were far from pleasant in the cold fog and wind sweeping over the ridge, but the American Dingo pressed on. Somewhere not too far ahead now, Birch Mountain’s summit was hidden in the clouds.

Approaching the low point before the ridge curves N. Photo looks W.

Regaining elevation beyond the low point notch. Photo looks WNW.

In fog and wind where the ridge broadens out after turning N. Photo looks N.

The wind increased as Lupe started up the dark, rocky slope leading to the summit. Staying a little below the ridgeline along the protected E side, conditions were better. Where possible, Lupe followed a lane of dirt and tundra.

Climbing toward the true summit. Photo looks N.

8-13-22, 11:13 AM, 48ºF, Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.) – Fog streaming by on a 25 mph wind out of the SW, Lupe stood on a low wall of rock.

At the **true summit of Birch Mountain**! Photo looks NNW.

Congratulations, Loopster! This is it, the true summit of Birch Mountain! May I shake your paw?

Yes, but be quick about it, SPHP, then let’s get out of this gale!

SPHP shook the graciously offered paw, a moment filled with both joy and remorse. Lupe was really here! She’d made it to Teresa Island, and all the way to Birch Mountain’s summit. However, socked-in with fog, the summit hadn’t been visible from a distance for over an hour. It had vanished even before the American Dingo reached HP6621. Tragic, and such a stupid waste, not to have arrived a couple of hours earlier!

Magnificent job, Loopster! Can I interest you in a hard-earned chocolate coconut bar?

Thought you’d never ask, SPHP! Can I get on your lap, though? There’s nothing but rocks to lay down on up here.

Sitting below the wall of rock, which greatly reduced exposure to the wind, SPHP faced E. Curling up on SPHP’s lap, Lupe made short work of her share of the chocolate coconut bar, plus some Taste of the Wild. The whole world was a chilly, soft gray as an endless stream of fog flew by. Whether or not the sky would clear, revealing the splendid views Lupe had come all this way to see, was a complete unknown.

What now, SPHP? Just sit here and wait?

All we can do, Looper. Sit here and hope for the best! Fortunately, we’ve got all day, provided conditions don’t get too extreme.

Maybe Lupe would get lucky?

For 20 minutes, nothing changed. SPHP’s legs were starting to go numb under the Carolina Dog’s weight. Gloomy thoughts of how foolish it had been not to have gotten here much earlier were as thick as the fog.

Stroking Lupe’s soft ears, suddenly SPHP’s brooding was interrupted by a dream-like vision. Glancing back to the SW through wisps of fog, a line of mountains was visible beyond the Torres Channel! The S end of Atlin Lake was in sight, too.

**S end of Atlin Lake** (L), **Torres Channel** (R). Photo looks SSW.

The fog reformed within seconds and the dream vanished, but the brief break was greatly encouraging. More breaks began appearing every few minutes. The sun was gradually gaining strength, slightly warming the air, lifting the clouds, and reducing fog formation.

For a while it was frustrating. Views often disappeared within seconds. Before Lupe could even get into position for a photo, the opportunity was lost. A major relapse occurred. Everything vanished completely, and did not reappear for a while.

For a long time, Lupe and SPHP alternated between sitting together in the cool breeze, or leaping up to admire fleeting glimpses of grandeur. Eventually, Birch Mountain no longer produced a steady stream of fog. Tremendous views were revealed in all directions, including some of the most beautiful Lupe had ever seen.

Mount Minto (6,913 ft.), and Mount Hitchcock (5,886 ft.) were far to the N on opposite sides of Atlin Lake. Atlin Mountain (6,722 ft.) was much closer. The town of Atlin was visible NNE.

**Atlin Mountain** (far L). **Mount Minto** (L) and **Mount Hitchcock** (L of Center) in the distance. **Town of Atlin** (R). Photo looks NNE.

Monarch Mountain (4,728 ft.) looked small to the NE. HP6129 with its two pylons, and much of the territory Lupe had journeyed through to get here, were in sight in the same direction. Sentinel Mountain (6,316 ft.) and West Sentinel Mountain (6,316 ft.) were almost directly E.

**Monarch Mountain** (L of Center) beyond **Atlin Lake**, **HP6129** (R of Center) across the canyon. Photo looks NE.

**Sentinel Mountain** and **West Sentinel Mountain** (R) beyond **Atlin Lake**. **Saddle** (Center) between **HP6129** and **HP6619** in the foreground. Photo looks E.

Often in the shadow of the last lingering cloud formations, HP6619 was SE. Lupe could see its W ridge, the curve N toward Birch Mountain’s summit, and the huge snowfield nestled just below the rim.

The Torres Channel was to the W, separating Teresa Island from a sea of peaks beyond. Mountains extended in all directions until they blended in, becoming indistinguishable from the clouds sailing over them.

**Atlin Mountain** (far R), **Torres Channel** (L). Photo looks NW.

**Torres Channel**. **The Cathedral** (L). Photo looks SW.

The most splendid scenes of all, though, were toward the S and SSW where the S end of Atlin Lake and Teresa Island were in sight. The lake was an intricate pattern of bays, coves, points, islands, channels, and a big expanse of open water. A line of the highest, snowiest mountains formed a wall beyond it, unbroken except by the distant Llewellyn Glacier glistening among them.

**Atlin Lake** (L), **S end of Teresa Island** (Center), **Torres Channel** (R). Photo looks SSW.

Zoomed in on **The Narrows** at the **S end of Teresa Island**. Photo looks SSW.

**S end of Atlin Lake**. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

Near the S end of the Torres Channel, the mighty Cathedral (6,965 ft.) stood guard over the region of the First and Second Narrows connecting Torres Bay to the rest of Atlin Lake.

**The Cathedral** (Center) looming over the **Torres Channel**. Photo looks SSW with help from the telephoto lens.

Many times, Lupe and SPHP roamed back and forth along the summit ridge. Knowing that the American Dingo would never be here again, it was hard to tear away from the splendors Birch Mountain had to offer.

A little N of the **true summit** (L). Photo looks SSW.

8-13-22, 2:25 PM – Luck of the Dingo! Birch Mountain was now a huge, complete success! More than 3 hours after arriving, Lupe stood once again in the cool SW wind on the very highest rocks for the last time.

**True summit of Birch Mountain**. Photo looks SSW.

Birch Mountain has been magnificent, SPHP! One of our best adventures ever!

Can’t begin to tell you what a pleasure it’s been to make this journey with you, Loopster! I’m overjoyed it’s turned out the way it did.

Well, there was plenty more adventure to come! Lupe still had to find her way back to Sandy Beach for the water taxi ride back across Atlin Lake, but that wasn’t until tomorrow. Tonight, she’d still be Empress of Teresa Island back at base camp. While SPHP started down, the Carolina Dog waited for the signal to begin her descent, too.

**Final moments atop Birch Mountain**. Photo looks NW.

With the sky so clear now, it was possible to see parts of the journey that hadn’t been visible during the ascent. It all seemed far less daunting and mysterious.

Heading back down the **S ridge**. **HP6619** (far L). Photo looks SSE.

Looking back at **Birch Mountain’s summit**. Photo looks N.

Along the snowfield **W of HP6619**. Photo looks NNW.

**Birch Mountain** from **HP6619**. Photo looks NW.

Once over HP6619 again, and down off the rockiest part, the rest of the trek back to base camp was absolute cake. Grandeur all around, and so much fun! A joyful, but wistful time.

**Birch Mountain** (L), **Atlin Mountain** (R of Center) from the edge of the canyon. Photo looks NW.

**Sentinel Mountain** and **West Sentinel Mountain** (R of Center) beyond **Atlin Lake**. Photo looks E.

8-13-22, 5:18 PM, 5,300 foot base camp on Teresa Island – Lupe and SPHP arrived tired and happy back at the tiny house waiting in the sheltered nook. The American Dingo still had her grand view to the N, but was anxious to get inside, enjoy a meal and a good snooze. SPHP joined her.

8-13-22, 9:47 PM, 5,300 foot base camp on Teresa Island –

Looper, you awake?

I am now! What is it, SPHP?

Just woke up. You’ve got to see this! Birch Mountain is putting on quite a display! There’s a terrific sunset.

**Atlin Mountain** (Center) from base camp on **Teresa Island**. Photo looks NNW.

Lupe emerged from the tiny house in time to enjoy the fading glory of what had been a most memorable day.

**Atlin Mountain** (Center), **Mount Minto** (far R). Photo looks NW.

**Atlin Mountain** (L of Center), **Mount Minto** (R), **Mount Hitchcock** (far R). Photo looks NNW.

**Mount Minto** (L), **Mount Hitchcock** (R). Photo looks N.

8-14-22, 8:26 AM, 5,300 foot base camp on Teresa Island – Lupe sat staring N, hoping in vain for the return of 3 caribou that had been grazing way down the slope. Prior to the American Dingo’s journey to Teresa Island, SPHP had greatly wondered how much and what types of wildlife she might encounter here?

The answer, virtually none. Other than a few small birds, Lupe hadn’t seen any wildlife during the past 2 days. The 3 caribou were a complete surprise this morning, but had vanished as soon as they’d seen her.

Waiting in vain for the return of the caribou. Photo looks N.

The tiny house disassembled and strapped to the pack, SPHP hoisted it all once more.

It’s that time, Looper! Onward! Puppy, ho!

Returning to the 5,200+ foot plateau at the N end of Birch Mountain, SPHP called a brief halt to peer down on the island near Sandy Beach where Lupe needed to get back to.

**Island by Sandy Beach** (lower R). Photo looks NE.

Bearings set, the steepest part of the descent down Birch Mountain’s N slope began. Staying a little farther W than during her ascent, Lupe was able to follow the edge of rock slides much farther down the mountain before they finally ended, forcing her into the forest.

Almost immediately upon entering the forest, Loop came across a couple of small, flat areas of bare dirt that were close together. Discovering a clear trail, she followed it NNE. This trail greatly aided SPHP in getting down the steepest part of the mountain without all the bushwhacking required among stunted evergreens encountered during Lupe’s ascent 2 days ago.

After 0.3 mile, the trail faded away. About time to turn E, anyway! The long descent continued, although not as steeply, through heavily forested terrain. Nothing looked at all familiar until Lupe reached the bog again.

8-14-22, 1:50 PM – Somehow, Lupe had made it over to the NW end of Sandy Beach, a cause for concern, since the blackwater lagoon was now between her and SPHP. Afraid she might try to swim across the lagoon, SPHP thrashed SE through the forest trying to get past it. As if by some Dingo magic, Lupe suddenly reappeared nearby.

The sky was mostly overcast, the day pleasantly warm, when Lupe and SPHP reached Sandy Beach together. To SPHP’s surprise, a white cabin cruiser was pulled up onto the sand, its occupants about ready to cast off. Local residents, they expressed surprise, almost disbelief, upon learning Lupe had climbed Birch Mountain.

The visitors left, and Sandy Beach was the epitome of solitude again.

Back at **Sandy Beach**. **Monarch Mountain** (R). Photo looks NE.

Hungry, Looper? We might as well have something to eat.

Bobby Smallwood isn’t coming back to get us until an hour before sunset, right, SPHP?

That’s the plan, Loop. We’ve got a long wait, but that’s OK. Love it here!

The afternoon was sublime! Nothing to do, but relax in glorious total isolation on Teresa Island, listening to the waves lapping into shore, all while enjoying the sweet success of having been to Birch Mountain. Lupe snoozed, or barked at a squirrel that came specifically to provide entertainment. SPHP slept on the sand, and waded in the cold, clear shallows along shore.

Relaxing at **Sandy Beach**. Photo looks ESE.

Waking from a nap, a small flotilla of birds paddled by, often ducking under the waves only to resurface somewhere else. They eventually vanished over by the island off the point.

As evening came on, the sky darkened. SPHP cleaned out the campfire ring, then took several strolls with Lupe while gathering driftwood to stack up for whoever might want to use it next.

**Atlin Mountain** (Center) from **Sandy Beach**. Photo looks NW.

Hours drifted by. The wait continued. Neither Lupe nor SPHP cared.

You know, Loop. If the boat doesn’t show up until tomorrow, I would be completely fine with that! How awesome is this?

8-14-22, 8:11 PM, Sandy Beach on Teresa Island – Suddenly, tranquility was broken by a faint distant roar. A dot racing across the waves grew in size. The boat was coming! Within minutes, the engine throttled down, and the vessel drifted into shore.

The water taxi arrives at **Sandy Beach**. Photo looks N.

Grabbing the pack, SPHP boosted Lupe up onto the boat as soon as it slid into the sand, then climbed aboard after her. Bobby Smallwood wasn’t captain this time, having sent Kenny, his daughter’s boyfriend, instead. Just as good! Two minutes later, the Carolina Dog was bouncing across the waves, Teresa Island rapidly receding behind her.

Leaving **Teresa Island**. Photo looks SSW.

As the boat sped on, more of Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.) came into view. The summit was hidden in the clouds, the sky looking almost stormy. What fabulous luck to have been up there yesterday!

Adventure’s end, gazing back at **Birch Mountain**.

8-14-22, 8:35 PM, Atlin – Definitely some weather moving in! Lupe stood on the docks looking back at Birch Mountain. SPHP had already settled up with Bobby Smallwood’s wife, Jodie, at their cabin office.

**Birch Mountain** from Atlin. Photo looks SSW with help from the telephoto lens.

So, how much did it all come to, SPHP?

$392.00 CAN, taxes included, Loopster. Right about what I expected. Our single most expensive adventure ever!

Worth every penny, SPHP! Birch Mountain was awesome start to finish!

Oh, yeah! Couldn’t agree more, Looper! One of our very best adventures ever, if you ask me. So glad Edith Sidler put us onto Bobby Smallwood!

I’m just glad you didn’t chicken out because of the weather forecast, SPHP! After all these years, this really was our golden opportunity, and you made the right choice.

Every once in a while, we do the right thing, Loop.

Well, the whole glorious Birch Mountain adventure was over. Sad that it was in the rearview mirror now, but that’s the nature of things.

Onward! Puppy, ho!

8-14-22, the favorite ridge off Hwy 7 overlooking the N end of Atlin Lake – A cool breeze was blowing, when Lupe arrived at dusk. She stayed on her pink blanket in the RAV4, while SPHP heated up a can of chili for dinner. Feasting on chili and Ritz crackers, the American Dingo watched as darkness fell over Mount Minto, Atlin Lake, and on the far S horizon, oh-so-fabulous Birch Mountain, too!

On **Birch Mountain**, **Teresa Island** in **Atlin Lake**, British Columbia, Canada 8-13-22

Links & Contact Information:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Birch Mountain, Skagway Ranges, British Columbia, Canada – Part 1: Across Atlin Lake to Teresa Island! (8-13-22)

Bobby Smallwood (water taxi) – Phone: (250) 651-2488

Discovery Helicopters

Glacier View Cabins (Peter & Edith Sidler owners)