Dingo Vacations – Page 2 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Wheeler Peak, Sangre de Cristo Range, the New Mexico State High Point (6-27-23)

Days 20 – 22 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico!

6-26-23, 12:43 PM, Taos Ski Village – On the deck overlooking a rushing stream, SPHP sipped on a cherry sour.

Mushroom Swiss burger, Loop! Sure you don’t want a bite? Very tasty!

Lupe sat in the shade, content to merely watch SPHP eat while enjoying the sound of the water. The Carolina Dog could have gone into Door 38 Pizza – Taos Ale House; it was a dog friendly establishment, but SPHP was so filthy that avoiding the rest of the clientele as much as possible seemed prudent.

Out on the **Door 38 Pizza – Taos Ale House deck**.

Not interested, aye? Your loss, Loopster! Guess I’ll polish off the whole burger then.

After a steep, dusty drive up a wide gravel road, Lupe spent the rest of the afternoon hanging out at the Williams Lake trailhead. 40+ vehicles were there when SPHP pulled the RAV4 into the last available parking spot, but the popular trailhead began emptying out as the day wore on.

**Rich Peak (12,535 ft.)** (L of Center) from the **Williams Lake trailhead**. Photo looks S.

By evening, the American Dingo had a change of heart. Back at Door 38 Pizza – Taos Ale House again, this time when SPHP ordered a second Swiss Mushroom burger plus french fries, Lupe was not only a willing participant, but eager to make up for her earlier abstinence.

6-27-23, 7:27 AM – The big paved parking lot at the entrance to the Taos Ski Village that had been jam packed yesterday was practically empty when Lupe leapt out of the RAV4.

We’re leaving from here, SPHP? What happened to the Williams Lake trailhead?

A nice guy named John at the little barn-like visitor center gave me a nifty trail system map yesterday, Loop. We can start from here, and make a huge loop coming back down that way. Longer and more elevation gain the way we’re going, but you can tag a few more peaks along the way, too.

As long as we still make it to Wheeler Peak (13,161 ft.), that’s fine, SPHP. Loops are awesome; I’m practically named after them! Don’t want to miss out on only my 6th state high point ever, though.

Eh, never any guarantees in the mountains, Loopster. You know that. The forecast is kind of iffy no matter which way we go. If the weather holds up, we’ll make it. Trail all the way!

So where do we go, SPHP?

The Bull-of-the-Woods trailhead is right here, Looper, a couple hundred feet from the visitor center. Onward! Puppy, ho!

Bound for the top of New Mexico, the Carolina Dog set out on Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90.

The paved parking lot at the **entrance to the Taos Ski Village**. The **barn-shaped shed** on the L is the **visitor information center**. Photo looks SE.

**Bull-of-the-Woods trailhead**. The gravel road on the R goes to the Williams Lake trailhead.

**Free trail system map** available at the visitor center.

Entering the forest, the single track trail became broad and rather rocky. Climbing NE at a good clip, it paralleled an unseen stream hidden among the trees off to the R. After a 15 minute trek, Lupe came to a spot with a view of the stream, which was now quite close to the trail.

Pressing on, Trail No. 90 became less rocky, and sometimes leveled out. Another 20 minutes, during which glimpses of the stream continued to appear, got the American Dingo to a tributary coming down from Long Canyon. SPHP was happy to see a makeshift bridge of branches.

**Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90**. More roots and fewer rocks now. Photo looks NE.

Hah! Don’t even have to get our paws wet, Looper!

It’s summer! Nothing wrong with cooling your paws off, SPHP.

Beyond the ford, Lupe reached a junction with Long Canyon Trail No. 63.

At the **junction of Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90** and **Long Canyon Trail No. 63**.

Junction signage. **Long Canyon Trail No. 63** (L).

Sticking with Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90, the broad single track trail soon merged with an old roadbed. Despite the absence of any other obstacles, due to the steepness of the incline, SPHP had to keep pausing to gasp for air. With no views other than the forest, the road trek quickly became monotonous.

The rate of climb finally diminished as Lupe approached Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture.

Arriving at **Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture**. Photo looks NNE.

Located in the saddle region between Gold Hill (12,711 ft.) 2.5 miles NW, and Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain (11,640 ft.) less than 0.75 mile S, Bull-of-the Woods Pasture was not at all what SPHP expected.

You thought there would be more grass, SPHP?

Yeah, guess it was the word “pasture” that threw me, Loop. Kind of thought we might be able to see something from up here, too.

Well, it does have the “woods” part down, SPHP.

I’ll grant you that, Looper.

Actually there was a clearing at Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture, it just wasn’t as extensive as SPHP had envisioned. Furthermore, although Gold Hill wasn’t in sight, the forested N side of Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain was.

**Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain** (R) from **Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture**. Photo looks SSE.

Gold Hill Trail No. 64 branched off to the L here. Taking Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 instead, it immediately curled SE, crossing a creek issuing from a small pond. The dirt road ahead looked new, and the sound of machinery came from this direction. Following this road, a single track trail soon branched off to the R as a light rain began to fall.

A sign said “Redi’s Run”.

At the **Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture pond and stream.** Photo looks NE.

On the new, or at least recently graded, dirt road. **Redi’s Run trail** (R).

Redi’s Run? Hang on, Loop, let’s get off the road. Not sure which way we need to go here.

Putting on the red rain jacket as it began raining harder, SPHP then checked the maps.

Hmm. No Redi’s Run mentioned on any of these maps, not even the one from the visitor center.

Maybe Redi is the name of the Bull-of-the-Woods, SPHP? He might come running through here at any moment!

Hope not. Didn’t bring any red capes to dodge him with.

Use your rain jacket, SPHP. It’s red!

Wasn’t necessary. An approaching roar proved to be a loaded logging truck coming down the road. A few minutes later, an empty truck backed up it.

Since Redi’s Run seemed destined to go downhill rather than up, once the empty logging truck disappeared from sight, Lupe followed it. She soon came to the place where it was being loaded.

Approaching the logging operation. Photo looks SE.

Rather than charge through all the activity, SPHP encouraged Lupe to go around it. Upon regaining the road on Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain’s N ridge, the Carolina Dog enjoyed her first distant view of the day, a look at Baldy Mountain (12,441 ft.) beyond the Red River valley.

**Red River valley** (Center), **Baldy Mountain** (R). Photo looks NE.

Despite cloudy skies, the sun reappeared. However, as Lupe continued along the freshly graded logging road around the upper W slopes of Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain, the sky darkened again.

Circling around **Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain**. Photo looks WSW.

Reaching the N end of Pass 11514, Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 turned S as a single track, parting from the road, which veered N. Lupe took shelter beneath a spruce tree as it began to rain again.

Nothing too serious yet, but this might not be our day, Looper.

Don’t give up so easily, SPHP.

Oh, I’m not, Loopster! The top of Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain is real close, though, only 100 feet higher up the road. Won’t take us long. Want to tag the summit so you can claim at least one peakbagging success today no matter what else happens?

I’m all in, SPHP!

As soon as the rain abated, the American Dingo followed the road N.

Approaching the **Bull-of-the-Woods summit region**. Photo looks N.

The free trail system map from the visitor center didn’t mention it, but the topo maps showed mines on Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain. As Lupe approached the summit region, forest gave way to a ridge of loose rock that had clearly been disturbed. Going around the W end of this ridge, the Carolina Dog found a wide, almost level gash that had been carved across the mountain. Beyond the gap, a higher ridge looked natural.

6-27-23, 10:15 AM, 50ºF, Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain (11,640 ft.) – A short scramble to the top of this second ridge, and Lupe reached a pile of rocks evidently serving as a loosely assembled cairn. The Carolina Dog might have enjoyed the excellent view of Fraser Mountain (12,163 ft.), her next objective due S, but conditions were none too pleasant.

A 20-25 mph W wind swept over the barren, exposed summit driving a cold light rain.

**Fraser Mountain** (Center) from **Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain**. **Peak 13054** (L of Center) in the distance. Photo looks S.

Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain offered other views, too, notably Gold Hill (12,716 ft.) off to the NNW. However, a few minutes atop the wet, windy summit was enough. Lupe returned to the road and protection of the forest. By the time the American Dingo got back to where Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 left the road near Pass 11514, the rain had ended.

Back at **Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90**. **Pass 11514** (Center) ahead. Photo looks S.

Well, phooey! Sorry about that, Loop. Seems we tagged Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain at the worst possible moment.

Still counts as a peakbagging success, SPHP. Maybe we’ll be luckier at Fraser Mountain?

Continuing down to the saddle at Pass 11514, Lupe crossed it. Trail No. 90 switchbacked SW, then SE, climbing through thick forest. Reaching a clearing where the trail turned SW again, it provided a terrific view of Gold Hill and mining-scarred Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain back to the N.

**Gold Hill** (L) and **Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain** (R). Photo looks N.

From this viewpoint, Trail No. 90 headed straight for the closest of a long line of snowbanks on the E side of the enormous ridge leading to Frazer Mountain, promptly vanishing beneath the snow. Climbing up and over the first snowbank, Lupe found no sign of the trail beyond it. However, the general direction she needed to go was clear. Heading S across flat, open ground, the Carolina Dog made rapid progress.

Heading for the big snowbanks on the E side of the ridge leading to Frazer Mountain. Photo looks SSW.

Searching for Trail No. 90 again on the way to Frazer Mountain. Photo looks SSE.

Near the end of the flat part of the gently rounded ridge, Lupe picked up Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 again, which gradually climbed S along the windy W side of the ridge. At treeline now, the views were awesome! Kachina Peak (12,481 ft.) and Lake Fork Peak (12,881 ft.) were both in sight on the opposite side of the Taos Ski Valley, still sporting some snow.

**Lake Fork Peak** (Center), **Kachina Peak** (R of Center). Photo looks SSW.

The trail went by the upper end of a forested section, then remained out on open ground as it went clear to the top of Frazer Mountain’s N ridge. In addition to seeing all the gorgeous peaks towering over the upper end of the Taos Ski Valley, Lupe got to sniff some stunning wildflowers along the way.

Heading for the top of the ridge after passing the forested section. **Lake Fork Peak** (R). Photo looks S.

Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 reached the top of the ridge only 0.1 mile N of Frazer Mountain, but did not go up to the summit, instead swinging over to the E side of the ridge. The W wind was especially powerful on top of the ridge, but Lupe enjoyed a bit of relief over on the protected E side.

However, the American Dingo wasn’t about to skip Frazer Mountain! After a brief respite from the wind, she left the trail, heading up the E slope in search of the true summit.

6-27-23, 11:50 AM, 52ºF, Frazer Mountain (12,163 ft.) – A 70 foot climb got Lupe to the top of a broad, flat summit region sprinkled with rocks amid tundra and wildflowers. Four mountain sheep who didn’t care to make the acquaintance of a Carolina Dog added excitement, racing away to the S as they abandoned these heights where the wind was 30 mph out of the WNW.

One of four Fraser Mountain mountain sheep.

From a cairn near the S end, Lupe had a terrific view of the territory ahead. Two big humps were now visible along the ridge leading S to Peak 13045. For the first time, Wheeler Peak (13,161 ft.) was also in sight.

**Peak 13045** (L), **Wheeler Peak** (L of Center), **Peak 12819** (R), and **Lake Fork Peak** (far R) from **Fraser Mountain**. Photo looks S.

The highest ground on Fraser Mountain was a bit back to the N, so Lupe headed over there to tag what appeared to be the true summit, an area scarcely any higher than the rest of the summit plateau. Upon getting there, SPHP made a discovery.

Well, shucks, Loop. Our GPS track messed up and quit recording before we even got to Bull-of-the-Woods Mountain.

Good spot to start a new one, SPHP. Then let’s get down out of this wind!

Heading back to the S end of Fraser Mountain’s summit plateau, Lupe began a rather steep descent on the open slope leading back down to Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90.

The region E of the next big hump to the S looked like the easiest route to Peak 13045 and ultimately Wheeler Peak, but shortly after reaching Trail No. 90 again, it turned E, continuing to lose elevation. Naturally, the trail ought to have worked, too, but upon reaching a forest, it immediately vanished beneath mounds of snow.

At the **S end of Fraser Mountain** about to head down to the L to pick up Trail No. 90 again. **Peak 13045** (far L), **Wheeler Peak** (L), **Lake Fork Peak** (far R). Photo looks S.

Entering the forest as Trail No. 90 vanishes beneath the snow. Photo looks SSE.

While Lupe had no problem with it, SPHP soon found post-holing in deep snow amid dense forest without a clue where the trail had gone rather discouraging.

Ugh! We should have just stayed up on the easy terrain E of that next hill, Loop. This is ridiculous!

Want to go back, SPHP? We can.

Yeah, but instead of going back along the trail, Loopster, let’s just angle SW until we get above all these trees and snow.

Snow extended all the way up to where the trees were mere stunted miniatures of the ones down in the main forest. Traversing this steep, rocky, upper slope was slow going. However, once far enough S, open terrain on the opposite E side of a shallow valley looked much better.

About to cross the shallow valley ahead. **Peak 13045** (L). Photo looks S.

After crossing the valley, Lupe’s off-trail exploration got substantially easier. She’d made it to the La Cal Basin, a flat, obstacle-free region.

Progress was excellent until the American Dingo turned E, starting a steep climb straight up the W side of Peak 13045’s massive NNE ridge. SPHP frequently paused to gasp for air. Fortunately, less than halfway up, Lupe came across Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 again.

Exposed once more to the powerful W wind, switchbacking gradually higher, the trail made getting to the ridgeline easier. Reaching the crest, Peak 13045 was directly ahead, with Mount Walter (13,133 ft.) in view less than 0.25 mile beyond it. Looking ESE, Horseshoe Lake was in sight nearly 1,000 feet below.

**La Cal Basin** (L), **Frazer Mountain** (R foreground), and **Gold Hill** (far R) from partway up **Peak 13045‘s NNE ridge**. Photo looks NW.

Approaching **Peak 13045** (R). **Mount Walter** (L). Photo looks S.

**Horseshoe Lake** (Center) from Peak 13045’s NNE ridge. Photo looks ESE.

Continuing up Peak 13045’s NE slope, Wheeler Peak Trail No. 90 made a few short switchbacks, but did not go all the way to the top. Instead, the trail began traversing the upper E slope. However, Lupe soon came to a snowbank where the trail vanished.

On **Peak 13045‘s upper E slope**. **Mount Walter summit** (R of Center). Photo looks S.

The snow’s too steep, Loopster! Don’t chance it.

Backtracking a bit to snow-free ground, Lupe abandoned the trail again and started climbing.

6-27-23, 2:46 PM – 60 feet was enough to get the Carolina Dog to the top of the small, flat, rocky plain that was the summit of Peak 13045. Only the W half of this plain was snow-free, but that was sufficient. Mount Walter was now directly ahead beyond a small saddle, and Wheeler Peak was less than half a mile farther.

**Mount Walter** (L) and **Wheeler Peak** (R) from **Peak 13045**. Photo looks S.

The route was open, the top of New Mexico within reach, but was Lupe too late? The W wind was stronger than ever up here, and although blue sky still dominated S and SE, at all points W, dark clouds and a long, gray line of rain showers were being driven this way.

**Peak 12819** (L) **Williams Lake** (Center), **Lake Fork Peak** (R of Center) from **Peak 13045**. Photo looks SW.

Our timing is looking worse than ever, SPHP.

I know it. Onward! Puppy, ho!

Setting off at speed, Lupe had barely crossed the saddle leading to Mount Walter and started up its N ridge when a few raindrops fell, stinging due to the force of the steadily increasing gale. Thunder rumbled. W of the trail, a grassy slope was below a big snowbank.

Go down there, Looper! No sense in being complete idiots, and getting ourselves fried right on the crest of the ridge!

Running NW down the slope a little way, SPHP dumped the pack, layered up as much as possible with the red rain jacket over all, then sat down.

On my lap, Loop! I’ve got another coat I can put over you.

Leaving **Peak 13045** for **Mount Walter** (R). **Red Dome** (L). Photo looks SE.

This open slope a few 10’s of feet below the ridgeline was it for shelter. Gonna to have to face whatever the storm dished out.

The wind came in swirling in from various directions, but mostly from straight out of the NW, perhaps due to the configuration of the terrain. Prolonged 50 mph gusts were occasionally separated by brief moments of relative calm. As line after line of showers swept over Mount Walter, rain, snow pellets, and tiny hail pelted Lupe. SPHP’s hands started to freeze, forcing a search of the pack for gloves.

Several cloud to ground lightning strikes crackled only a few miles N. No view of what was happening to the S, but thunder boomed from that direction, as well. Despite the fierce wind, the showers seemed to move slowly. At last, a patch of blue sky appeared far to the W.

Waiting the storm out. **Peak 12012** (L), **Peak 13045** (R). Photo looks NW.

The patch of blue sky grew slowly, at first spreading only toward the N. However, the rain abated and the wind even began to taper off slightly. Lupe waited until the last of the thunder was well to the E.

OK, Loop. You’re cutting off my circulation – my leg’s going numb. We’ve been here a whole hour. Time to get moving again!

6-27-23, 4:19 PM, 40ºF – The next bump along the ridgeline wasn’t the true summit of Mount Walter (13,133 ft.), but it wasn’t much farther. Arriving in a 40 mph gale, Lupe found a metal plaque commemorating H. D. Walter atop a pole sticking out of a pile of rocks.

**Mount Walter summit**. **Wheeler Peak** (L). Photo looks SW.

With the wind as annoying as it was, Lupe lingered on Mount Walter only 5 or 10 minutes before pressing on to her final objective.

Closing in on **Wheeler Peak** (Center), the **New Mexico state high point**! Photo looks SSW.

6-27-23, 4:38 PM, 45ºF, Wheeler Peak (13,161 ft.) – Unfortunately, the wild W wind wasn’t about to cut Lupe any slack just because she’d made it to the top of New Mexico. Even so, the relentless 40 – 50+ mph breeze did reward her with what may have been a rare moment of privacy here on a late June afternoon. Not a soul was around.

The summit featured a rock wall serving as a completely inadequate windbreak astride the natural high point. A battered directional survey marker was attached to one of the highest rocks comprising the wall.

Wheeler Peak also possessed a much more unusual landmark in the form of a capped, heavy metal horizontal pipe jutting out of a pyramid of rocks cemented together. This pyramid bore a metal plaque in honor of Major George Montague Wheeler, and sat on a tilting concrete base.

On **Wheeler Peak**, **New Mexico’s highest mountain**! Photo looks SW.

**Major George Montague Wheeler commemorative plaque**.

Next to the **directional survey marker** (R). **Pueblo Peak** (L), **Vallecito Mountain** (R). Photo looks SW.

**Wheeler Peak directional survey marker**.

Attempting to turn the cap fastened by a chain to the heavy metal pipe protruding from the pyramid, SPHP was surprised at how easily it came off. Signing Lupe’s name in the registry notebook hidden within was a challenge in the wind, but SPHP made sure her ascent was noted.

Congratulations, Loopster! You’ve officially made it to Wheeler Peak, the New Mexico state high point.

Thank you, SPHP! Wish my 6th state high point wasn’t so windy, though.

You and me both, Looper. Under the circumstances, we aren’t going to hang around up here for a whole hour. Let’s get some photos.

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, then the photo session began.

Baldy Mountain (12,441 ft.) and Touch-Me-Not Mountain (12,044 ft.) beyond a broad valley were the big highlights miles to the NE.

**Mount Walter** (L) and **Baldy Mountain** (R). Photo looks NE.

**Baldy Mountain** (L) and **Touch-Me-Not Mountain** (R). Photo looks ENE.

On a better day, Simpson Peak (12,976 ft.) looked easily attainable only 0.5 mile S. Continuing SE to Old Mike Peak (13,113 ft.) from Simpson appeared to be just a romp. Red Dome (12,681 ft.) would have added another mile farther E.

**Red Dome** (L edge), **Old Mike Peak** (Center), **Simpson Peak** (R). Photo looks SE.

Gazing NNW down the Taos Ski Valley, the Williams Lake trailhead was in sight below the ski runs coming down off Peak 12012. Farther down the valley, part of the Taos Ski Village close to where Lupe had set out from was visible. However, the wind was so ferocious along the W edge that SPHP didn’t even try to get a glimpse of whether or not Williams Lake could be seen from Wheeler Peak.

**Peak 12012** (L), **Williams Lake trailhead** (Center), **Taos Ski Village** below it, **Gold Hill** (R), **Frazer Mountain** (far R) at the lower end of the ridge. Photo looks NNW.

The most magnificent views of all, though, were toward the SW where Pueblo Peak (12,305 ft.) and the top of Vallecito Mountain (12,643 ft.) jutted up beyond the ridge between Peak 12819 and Lake Fork Peak (12,881 ft.) beneath a stormy sky.

**Peak 12819** (far L), **Pueblo Peak** (L), **Vallecito Mountain** (Center), **Lake Fork Peak** (R). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Despite the relentless gale out of the W and still questionable outlook, 15 minutes into Lupe’s stay she spotted someone rapidly approaching from Mount Walter. She soon met Casey, only the 3rd person she’d seen all day. Casey was friendly, but hung around 10 minutes tops, declining to even sign the registry before heading back N.

6-27-23, 5:10 PM – Casey was gone. Once again, Lupe had Wheeler Peak to just herself, SPHP, and the wild W wind, which hadn’t shown the least sign of letting up.

Been here half an hour, Loopster. Maybe Casey’s right? Ready to head down and get out of this gale?

Hate to leave before my traditional summit hour is over, SPHP. Especially on only my 6th state high point!

Feel the same way, Looper, but its kind of hard to enjoy it. Won’t the next half hour just be an ordeal to endure for no real reason, if we stay? We’re lucky to have made it here at all. If the storm had lasted longer, or been more severe, we would never have made it.

I suppose that makes sense, SPHP. Count our blessings, and go! Certainly had a memorable experience, and after all, Wheeler Peak’s been a success!

Precisely, sweet puppy!

The sky was a little brighter, the W wind as rambunctious as ever, as the Carolina Dog returned briefly to the rock wall built over the natural true summit.

Final moments atop **Wheeler Peak**. Photo looks SW.

Between Mount Walter and Wheeler Peak, Lupe had passed a junction with Williams Lake Trail No. 62, the shortest route back, and clearly now by far the quickest way down out of the wind. Eager to complete the big loop proposed earlier in the day, the American Dingo left Wheeler Peak ready to explore this most popular route.

Heading for **Williams Lake Trail No. 62** seen below **Peak 13045** (L of Center) and **Mount Walter** (R). Photo looks N.

Switchbacks made the descent of the steep open slope a snap. For a long way, part of Williams Lake was in view, nestled down in the upper end of the Taos Ski Valley surrounded by the glories of many of New Mexico’s highest peaks. Lupe lost hundreds of feet of elevation before the W wind diminished. By the time she reached the forest, not a breeze remained.

Switchbacking down **Wheeler Peak’s W slope**. **Pueblo Peak** (far L), **Lake Fork Peak** (Center) with a fragment of **Williams Lake** visible below it. Photo looks WSW.

Unidentified **unusual plant** along Williams Lake Trail No. 62. Anyone know what it is?

6-27-23, 8:29 PM, 55ºF, Taos Ski Village – Lupe hopped into the RAV4, glad to return to the comfort of her pink blanket after a long day.

I’m thinking Swiss mushroom burger! Sure you don’t want to come down to Door 38 Pizza – Taos Ale House with me, Loopster?

Perfectly content, and perhaps prescient, the American Dingo declined. SPHP was back soon enough.

Closed, weren’t they, SPHP?

Yup! 7:00 PM, and they roll up the sidewalk. I was a couple of hours late.

6-28-23, 2:30 AM, Taos Ski Village – SPHP turned the key, and the RAV4 sprang to life.

What’s going on, SPHP? It’s the middle of the night!

Can’t sleep! Woke up feeling good and alert, so we’re heading out, Loop.

Heading out for where?

Home, sweet puppy! Wheeler Peak was the exciting conclusion for this Dingo Vacation. Must be 700 miles, or thereabouts, back to the Black Hills. May as well get an early start.

6-28-23, 3:39 PM, 63ºF – For 100 miles, an enormous thunderhead had been visible hanging over the Black Hills. Braving a cloudburst, Lupe sprang out of the RAV4 to dash into the house. Her 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico had been a blast! All over and done with now, but the Carolina Dog’s Summer of 2023 adventures were far from over.

Uncle Joe and Aunt Andrea were due tomorrow afternoon, bringing new Cousin Dixie with them! And, of course, preparations would soon begin for Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

On **Wheeler Peak**, Sangre de Cristo Range, the **New Mexico state high point** (6-27-23)

Links:

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Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track (Partial)

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Canjilon Mountain, San Juan Mountains, New Mexico (6-25-23)

Days 18 & 19 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico!

6-24-23, 6:06 AM, 35ºF – start of USFS Road No. 877, W of Lake City – Bleary-eyed, Lupe stared at SPHP in disbelief.

Up already? Why?

Oh, I don’t know, Loop. Woke up feeling surprisingly good, except for my smashed R pinky toe that the rock fell on yesterday. Even it’s doing better than it was. Thought I’d straighten out the RAV4 a bit before we head out.

Where to next, SPHP? We aren’t climbing any mountains today, are we?

Not exactly sure yet, Loop, except for S. We’re done in Colorado for this Dingo Vacation, so we’ll be heading into northern New Mexico. Haven’t decided which peak we’ll be going for yet, though.

Can you make it an easier one, SPHP? Maybe something without any frigid, frightening fords this time?

I’ll see what I can do, Loopster.

SE of Lake City, Hwy 149 climbed through spectacular scenery clear up to Slumgullion Pass (11,361 ft.) before going over less dramatic Spring Creek Pass (10,898 ft.), and dropping down into the Rio Grande River valley. This was all incredibly beautiful territory, but by the time Lupe arrived in Del Norte, she was out in the flats again. A short romp in North Park led to a view of the big river, which was full to the point of overflowing – not surprising at all, given the incredible amount of snow Lupe had seen in the San Juans.

**Rio Grande River** from North Park in Del Norte. Photo looks NW.

From Del Norte, it wasn’t far to Monte Vista, a town that had become a Lupe favorite, and where she spent the rest of the morning and half of the afternoon squirrel watching, or dozing on her pink blanket in the RAV4 in the shade of the big cottonwoods out in front of the high school. SPHP dined on cherry turnovers and orange juice while working on the trip journal and pondering the Carolina Dog’s next move.

The afternoon temperature soared into the 80’s ºF. Time to head out and turn on the AC! Another scenic drive, this time into New Mexico, and by early evening the RAV4 was parked along USFS Road No. 124 a few miles WSW of Canjilon Mountain (10,913 ft.).

Evening in **New Mexico** along **USFS Road No. 124**. Photo looks SSW.

6-25-23, 9:00 AM, 55ºF, USFS Road No. 124 – Got chilly last night! With an easy day expected, SPHP remained snuggled under the blankets until the sun hit the treetops before heating up a can of chili. Served Taste of the Wild with chili poured over the top, at first the American Dingo wouldn’t touch it. When she did, the combo was a big hit.

Oh, that hit the spot, SPHP!

Glad you liked it, Looper. Warming up fast, so we might as well get going.

No frigid fords this time, SPHP?

Nope, and not a cloud in the sky. You might be wishing for one by the time this is over and done with.

Canjilon Mountain was a road hike. The trek began with a 0.5 mile stint on USFS Road No. 124, following it SE going gradually uphill to a junction with No. 274B.

About to set out along **No. 124** for **Canjilon Mountain**. Photo looks SE.

At the junction with **USFS Road No. 274B** (L). **No. 124** (R). Photo looks SE.

Making the L turn onto No. 274B, it immediately led to a clearing full of tall, brilliantly green plants with big leaves and wild irises.

Entering the **first clearing near the start of USFS Road No. 274B**. Photo looks N.

Amid the big green plants and wild irises. Photo looks NE.

Wow! Can’t believe how lush it is here in New Mexico, SPHP. Colorado wasn’t this green!

Early summer is probably a good time of year to be here, Looper. Plus we’re a few thousand feet lower here than we were in Colorado, so the plants have had more of a chance to grow.

No. 274B left the clearing heading NE, before eventually turning E. Lupe appreciated the shade of the trees as the road continued a gradual climb through open forest. However, although pleasant, most of the territory the Carolina Dog was traveling through wasn’t nearly as lush as that first clearing.

Winding through the open forest. Photo looks NE.

A lovely stretch of tall aspens. Photo looks S.

Ambling along in no particular rush, partly due to SPHP’s sore toe, every now and then a cow could be heard mooing in the forest. Glancing back, a black cow was bringing up the rear, right on the road. Seeing that this cow was a loner emboldened the American Dingo. Turning the tables, Lupe dashed off in pursuit of the cow, which soon ran past SPHP.

For pity sake, SPHP! Don’t you know anything about hunting? That was dinner! You were supposed to head that cow off at the pass. We could have had T-bone steaks!

Sorry, Loop. Didn’t think this was a pass. Besides, I bet there’s a rancher who wouldn’t take too kindly to us eating his steaks. If you see any more cows, leave ’em alone!

The cow was now somewhere up ahead. Lupe soon heard it mooing again. By the time she saw it over on a hillside, the cow had found a friend. Both cows still seemed to be looking for the rest of the herd.

This time, the Carolina Dog behaved. The road trek continued without further incident. More clearings appeared. From the first big one, Lupe got her first unobstructed view of distant forested ridges to the W.

Although forest was always nearby, the road increasingly went through sunny meadows. During forested stretches, or whenever a tree was next to the road, Lupe often wanted to relax in the shade and have a drink of water. Overall progress remained excellent, and a high ridge eventually came into view. Mostly forested, a long stretch along the top was bare.

Following USFS Road No. 274B through a meadow. Photo looks E.

Approaching the high ridge. Photo looks NE.

That ridge must be the top of Canjilon Mountain, Loop.

Already? Looks easy, SPHP. We’ve got this one made, if that’s really it!

Turning N for a little way, the road entered a vast, flat meadow. The Canjilon Mountain summit ridge and entire W slope were now in sight. The lower part was mostly open, while the upper regions were forested. Angling NE over to the base of the slope, the only steep part of the entire journey was now ahead.

**Canjilon Mountain** (R). Photo looks NE.

At the base of the much steeper climb. Photo looks ENE.

The top of the mountain was only 400 feet higher now. No. 274B headed up the W slope as a deeply eroded rocky gash. A turn S, then back to the E, and the road reached a gentler, open slope. Abandoning No. 274B, Lupe climbed NNE past a few scattered trees.

Heading up the W slope on stoney, badly eroded No. 274B. Photo looks SE.

About to head up to the **summit** (Center) along the slope on the R. Photo looks NNE.

6-25-23, 11:56 AM, 68ºF, Canjilon Mountain (10,913 ft.) – The terrain leveled out as Lupe reached the bare part of the ridge, which was 800 feet long. The true summit was a fairly large flat area covered with small rocks right along the steep W edge. In all other directions, the ground sloped away only very gradually.

At the **true summit of Canjilon Mountain**. Photo looks N.

The big view was off to the W, where an enormous region of lowlands extended toward distant ridges that weren’t even close to being as high as Canjilon Mountain. Higher snow-capped peaks of the San Juan Range were visible to the NW, but were so far away that they may have been in Colorado. Forested ridges of roughly equal elevation were to the S, but were also far away. Featureless from here, they lacked rugged appeal.

The big view. **Red Hill** (L of Center) in the foreground. Photo looks W.

**Distant snow-capped peaks** (Center). Photo looks NW.

Beyond a large, nearly flat meadow, forest hid any views to the N and E. However, a couple items of potential interest were in these directions. 200 feet ENE of the true summit, a battered old cabin stood alone in the meadow, surrounded by a multitude of purple or blue wildflowers with yellow centers. Another 400 feet N, some sort of a display was along the edge of the forest, as if a trailhead was over there.

Let’s check out the cabin, SPHP!

Might as well, Loopster.

Heading over to check out the cabin. Photo looks E.

The poor, old, weather-beaten cabin was tiny, and in a sad state. Lupe sniffed around the outside, finding little of interest, then went in. Other than names and graffiti carved into the walls, pieces of plywood and broken glass, the cabin’s only room was empty.

The weather-beaten exterior. Photo looks E.

At the front door. Actually, Lupe’s standing on it. Photo looks NW.

Too much broken glass to stick around. Photo looks E.

Definitely seen better days, Looper.

Actually, I’m sort of surprised, SPHP. Doesn’t look like the roof leaks.

Yeah, you’re right, Loop. If I had a broom and dustpan to sweep up the broken glass, this cabin might still make a decent temporary shelter.

Well, we won’t need one today, SPHP. Not much more to see here, is there? Maybe there’s something interesting over at the trailhead?

USFS Road No. 274B, which went right over the mountain, disappeared into the forest right next to the display.

Hmm. This display doesn’t actually have anything to do with any trails, Loopster.

Not terribly surprising, SPHP. Few trails start at the tops of mountains. So, what is it about?

Says Carson National Forest at the top, and below that shows 3 old photos and a historic note that is itself weathering away. Can’t make all of it out, but here’s what it says, Loop:

“This restored cabin is the oldest surviving fire lookout structure in the SW. The cabin and now dismantled fire tower were built around 1910. Being the highest point around (10,913 feet) and very open, lightning strikes frequently up here. In the summer of 1922 Victor Ortega and his family lived in the tiny cabin while he watched for forest fires from the tower. One afternoon, lightning struck the cabin and the tower, killing Victor on the second strike. The tower …. illegible … abandoned and dismantled.”

Oh, that’s very sad, SPHP! What happened to Victor’s family in the cabin? Were they OK?

Don’t know. That’s all it says, Loopster. There’s a picture of Victor Ortega, and a couple of the fire tower. One shows the cabin in much better shape, but with the tower either under construction, or already damaged by the lightning strike.

After that sad tale, it was time to take a break. Heading over to the steep W edge, Lupe then went N looking for a shady spot open enough to still have a view.

N of the cabin looking for a shady spot with a view. Photo looks S.

Oddly enough, the American Dingo quickly found a spot that seemed ideal. Not only did it have a view to the SW, but a small snowbank was conveniently nearby where Lupe could cool off and eat some snow.

The view from the break spot along the W edge. Photo looks SW.

Enjoying the little snowbank melting in the forest. Photo looks SSE.

Those features weren’t what was odd about this spot, though. What was unusual was the ancient wooden cross sticking out from a loose pile of stones. Held together by rusty wire, the cross had half fallen over.

By the **ancient cross** (L). Photo looks NNE.

Oh, my gosh, SPHP! Do you suppose they buried Victor Ortega right here?

Who knows, Loopster? Someone or something is probably buried here. Can’t rule it out. Victor may be just a few feet below us.

Lupe stayed quite a while near Victor’s grave, if that’s what it was. SPHP ate a pear fruit cup while pondering the view Victor must have seen hundreds of times. The Carolina Dog wanted only water and a chance to doze in the shade.

The summer of 1922, that was 101 years ago. Victor and his family had been alive and well on Canjilon Mountain until that fateful lightning storm had blown in. Now Lupe was here on a beautiful day Victor never even dreamed of, a day more than a century into the future, beyond the reach of any individual human’s aspirations.

That stormy day so long ago had been just as real as this one. Now all that remained of Victor and the world he knew were a few old photos, a brief history that time was in the process of erasing, and maybe this pile of stones and forlorn old cross.

Before leaving Canjilon Mountain, Lupe returned to the tiny cabin where Victor and his family once lived. Even if in perfect condition, it seemed impossibly small, remote, and simple for a family residence.

Heading back to Victor’s cabin. Photo looks S.

60 feet straight out from the front door, Lupe found an arrow survey marker that pointed toward the true summit.

The **“Jilon” directional survey marker**.

About the time she found it, a distant roar was heard.

Something’s coming, SPHP!

Nope. Not some terrible thunderstorm. A dune buggy came roaring up USFS Road No. 274B from the S like some giant mechanical insect. The buggy stopped briefly at the true summit, before roaring away again and disappearing into the forest as it sped by the historical display.

Getting to be time to go. Alive and well, 101 years after Victor Ortega’s last summer on Canjilon Mountain, Lupe paid her respects, sitting for a few minutes among the wildflowers near the true summit about where the old fire tower had once stood.

6-25-23, 1:22 PM – Returning to the true summit, the wind, which had been light when Lupe had first arrived, was now 20 mph out of the W. Looking down the W slope, USFS Road No. 274B was in sight in the flat meadows below. The road didn’t go to it, but a much lower forested hill was in sight, too, less than 2 miles away.

Want to tag Red Hill (10,160 ft.) on the way back, Loop? Chance to do some exploring, and ought to be a snap.

**Red Hill** (R of Center). Photo looks W.

The American Dingo was all for it. Heading back down the S slope, Lupe picked up No. 274B again, following it down the W slope to the big flat meadow. There she left the road, continuing WNW toward Red Hill.

Leaving **Canjilon Mountain**. Photo looks S.

On the way to **Red Hill** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

The trek to Red Hill was a pleasant, downhill march, mostly through open fields. Hot in her fur coat beneath the New Mexico sun, Lupe wanted to pause in the shade of a grove of tall aspen trees.

With many hours of daylight remaining there was no reason not to stop, and let her enjoy the afternoon. Resting in the shade of a big aspen with a crooked trunk, Lupe actually snoozed for a while under some little evergreens.

Enjoying half an hour at the aspen oasis. Photo looks WNW.

Closing in on Red Hill, Lupe was still in the meadows when she came upon a spot near a barbed wire fence where some totally clueless people had once had a picnic, leaving a huge mess behind. SPHP had already started collecting Lupe treasures along USFS Road No. 274B on the way to Canjilon Peak. By the time SPHP finished cleaning up this mess, 2 more plastic grocery bags were full.

Following the fence, which had completely fallen over in some places, Lupe eventually had to duck under it to continue the journey to Red Hill, now only 0.25 mile away.

The American Dingo never got there. Beyond the fence stood a forest so dense and full of deadfall, that SPHP quickly had a change of heart.

The **dense, deadfall-strewn forest leading to Red Hill**. Photo looks WNW.

Eh. Red Hill’s hardly worth it, Loopster. Saw from Canjilon Mountain that the whole hill is forested, so even if we reach the top, we won’t see a thing.

Then why did you even suggest it, SPHP?

Thought it would be easy to tag the high point, Loop. Would have been, too, if not for all this deadfall.

Lupe didn’t care. Battling deadfall wasn’t the Carolina Dog’s favorite thing, either. Besides, she’d already made it to Canjilon Mountain, her main objective. Slipping back under the fence, then wandering roughly SSW, it was farther back to USFS Road No. 274B than SPHP expected. However, Lupe had a blast exploring the meadows and more open forests along the way.

An old cow path eventually led to a salt lick from which No. 274B was visible 100 feet away. During the rest of the road hike return, SPHP kept gathering Lupe treasures until it wasn’t possible to carry any more.

6-25-23, 3:53 PM, 77ºF, USFS Road No. 124 – The RAV4 was an oven when Lupe got back. Even so, she leapt up onto her pink blanket as soon as SPHP opened the door, then laid there panting in 110ºF heat.

Are you nuts? Get out of there, Loop! You’ll cook!

Opening all the windows, a breeze quickly blew the hot air out, but with everything inside still blistering hot to the touch, SPHP wouldn’t let Lupe back in until the sun got lower and the evening cooled off. Happily, the only thing that cooked was another can of chili for dinner.

Canjilon Mountain (10,913 ft.), with its unexpected sad tale of events 101 years ago, had been a much easier, more relaxing day than Lupe’s most recent prior adventures, and a welcome, needed break. Perhaps a somewhat wistful one, too.

Remembering **Victor Ortega** on Canjilon Mountain, San Juan Mountains, New Mexico 6-25-23

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track

Lupe treasures gathered: 24 aluminum cans, 12 plastic bottles, 3 glass bottles, miscellaneous.

Uncompahgre Peak, San Juan Mountains, Colorado (6-23-23)

Days 16 & 17 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico!

6-22-23, 4:32 PM, Carp Lake near the Grand Mesa Visitor Center –

This is a gorgeous area, SPHP! For a backup plan, Grand Mesa’s looking fabulous! We’ve seen so many beautiful lakes already, and we’ve only just arrived. What’s the name of this one?

Carp Lake. Cobbett Lake on some maps, Looper.

**Carp Lake** on **Grand Mesa**. Photo looks ENE.

Well, Carp or Cobbett, it’s a beauty, SPHP! What did they say in the visitor center?

Unfortunately, they basically said we’ve come a long way for nothing, Loopster. Leon Peak (11,236 ft.) isn’t going to work.

What! Why not, SPHP?

USFS Road No. 121 is closed E of Baron Lake due to deep snow, Loop, as in gated shut. We can’t get anywhere near the trailhead.

So, what are we going to do, SPHP?

Don’t know yet, sweet puppy. The Crag Crest (11,189 ft.) trail might be an option, but even if we do that, we’d still want to come back to hit Leon someday. Intended to visit both of them while we’re here this time.

Can we get to a trailhead for Crag Crest? I wouldn’t mind doing that, SPHP.

Yup, there’s a trailhead less than 0.5 mile from here N of Island Lake. On the other paw, I suppose we might consider going back to Plan A.

Speaking of paws, what about your sore paws, though, SPHP? We’re here because Plan A would be too much for them so soon after San Luis Peak (14,014 ft.) yesterday, remember?

Yeah, I know it, Loop, but they’re already feeling better than expected.

Seriously? Good enough for nearly 5,000 feet of elevation gain tomorrow, SPHP?

Even SPHP wasn’t truly convinced, but Plan A won out. After another hours long, very scenic drive, Lupe was in Lake City by dusk. Finding a gravel road near the S end of town that went to Engineer Pass, SPHP took a chance on it. Passing through a narrow gap between towering cliffs where Henson Creek gushed in a raging torrent right next to the road, the road then wound through an old mining district.

Roughly 5 miles W of Lake City, there it was! The sign SPHP had been looking for.

Let’s get out and have a look, Loopster. We’re at Nellie Creek!

Evening at **Blue Mesa Reservoir** on the way to Lake City. Photo looks W.

Signage W of Lake City at the turn for the **Nellie Creek trailhead**. Photo looks WNW.

Walking up a short incline, vehicles were parked in various spots among the trees. In the growing gloom, lanterns were being lit. People could be heard talking quietly among themselves as they got ready to turn in for the night. Whatever they were saying was drowned out by roar of Nellie Creek, unseen in the dark forest toward the W.

Only one empty parking spot left, SPHP. We better grab it!

6-23-23, 6:31 AM, 45ºF – People were stirring. Lupe was, too. The great day had arrived!

Ready in just a few minutes, Loopster. Putting on these new socks. Extra cushiony. Might need it. Then we’ll be on our way.

Socks and boots on, SPHP drank a strawberry Equate, then hoisted the pack. That was it for breakfast. Lupe was too excited to eat anything. Nellie Creek was still roaring somewhere off to the W.

Alright. Uncompaghre Peak (14,309 ft.) or bust! Onward! Puppy, ho!

Heading N on USFS Road No. 877, the Carolina Dog began the 4 mile long trudge to the Nellie Creek trailhead more than 2,000 feet higher. Those lucky enough to have 4WD could simply drive to it, and start from there.

Starting up **USFS Road No. 877**. Photo looks N.

The road was relatively flat at first, but a relentless climb soon began. Not that steep, but steady, with only occasional flat spots. No downhill sections at all.

No one else was walking, and, surprisingly, only one vehicle passed Lupe as she trotted higher. After a little while it came back down, the driver pausing to say that he’d merely dropped people off at the Nellie Creek trailhead. Progress was good, and spirits running high. The American Dingo passed a number of dispersed parking spots among the trees, only half of which were occupied. After 0.75 mile, they became scarce.

For the most part, although narrow, No. 877 was actually a fairly decent road. SPHP was still glad, though, that the RAV4 was stashed back in the forest close to the main road to Lake City and Engineer Pass. No. 877 did have some pretty rough, rocky spots, and sometimes ran along the edge of sheer drops.

Meanwhile, a growing concern was gnawing at SPHP. Nellie Creek was often in view now. Although not a huge stream, it always appeared to be an impassable, boulder-infested torrent.

Who cares, SPHP? It’s beautiful.

Yeah, but we’ll be coming to a major test soon enough, Looper. Two of them, actually. We may never even get to the trailhead, much less climb Uncompaghre Peak.

Oh? And what might those tests consist of, SPHP? Do tell!

We’re going to have to ford Nellie Creek twice, Loop. Rob Woodall’s GPS track shows a rickety bridge and a slippery log.

Don’t like that sound of that, or Nellie Creek, SPHP. You mean we drove all over creation yesterday only to come here, when you knew the whole time that this might well be a total fail?

Uh-huh, but then you saw Uncompaghre from San Luis Peak, too, Loop, and the mountain looked beyond our capabilities from there. So you’ve known this might be a fail all along, too.

That’s different, SPHP! Despite what we saw from afar, you said there was a trail to the top!

And there is, sweet puppy! At least, that’s what everyone says, so there must be.

Well, there was no sense in backing out now without seeing what the first ford actually looked like, no matter how intimidating the constant, foaming roar emitted by Nellie Creek.

After gaining 900 feet of elevation over 1.5 miles, Lupe reached the first ford at around 10,200 feet.

**First ford of Nellie Creek** at 10,200 feet. Photo looks N.

Hmm. Didn’t look bad at all. No big rocks, and Nellie Creek was spread out, most of it quite shallow where the road crossed it. The deepest part where the current was most powerful appeared to be only a couple of feet deep. Not much of an issue for SPHP, but neck deep on Lupe.

Lovely! So where’s the rickety bridge or slippery log Mr. Woodall wants us to take, SPHP?

How am I supposed to know? Maybe they’ve washed out since Rob was here? Anyway, wait here, Loop, I’ll cross first to make sure it isn’t any worse than it looks.

Lupe watched as SPHP removed boots and socks, then waded bare-paw across the icy cold stream.

C’mon, you can do it, Loopster! Cross right where I did, the deepest part isn’t very wide there. You’ll be over in a flash.

Lupe hesitated. Several times the Carolina Dog started in, only to retreat from the frigid water. Nellie Creek looked too wide, and the roar coming from immediately both upstream and downstream was too frightening. A couple of times, Lupe threatened to plunge into the upstream torrent where the creek was narrower, but deep, swift, and full of rocks. SPHP screamed at her not to do that.

Stay there, Loopster! I’ll come and help you.

Fording the stream again, SPHP leashed Lupe up. Carrying her over would be impossible. SPHP needed to be able to use poles to maintain balance. The escort worked, though. Completely drenched, Lupe was soon across, shaking off and sending a spray of water at SPHP.

Don’t say a thing, SPHP! Your little cold shower is nothing compared to what I’ve just been through!

The road hike continued. A beautiful view of Peak 13160 was back to the S as sunlight began reaching the road.

The second ford appeared at 10,700 feet, less than 0.75 mile beyond the first one. This ford was no big deal, yet neither SPHP nor Lupe wanted to get wet again. Here, there actually was a slippery log just upstream. Hanging onto tree branches, SPHP managed to cross without incident. Lupe easily raced across the log without any such assistance.

Second Nellie Creek ford at 10,700 feet. Photo looks N.

The fortunately **not-too-slippery log** (L) beyond Lupe.

Nellie Creek dealt with for the final time, it was now possible enjoy the rest of the increasingly scenic road hike to the trailhead. Before long, Peak 13106 came into view ahead.

**Nellie Creek** and **Peak 13106** (R of Center) from **USFS Road No. 877**. Photo looks N.

6-23-23, 9:27 AM – After passing an outhouse, Lupe finally reached the Nellie Creek trailhead at the upper end of USFS Road No. 877. Rather surprisingly, only a single gray ATV was at the parking lot, and not a soul was around. However, quite a bit of information was posted at the start of Uncompahgre Peak Trail No. 239. SPHP paused to take a look.

Arriving at the **Nellie Creek trailhead**. **Peak 13016** (R). Photo looks N.

Only a single gray ATV was at the parking lot. Photo looks NNW.

**Start of Uncompahgre Peak Trail No. 239**. **Peak 13106** (Center). Photo looks N.

Does it say anything interesting, SPHP?

About what I expected, Loop. At least it confirms that there’s a trail to the top.

Pressing on, Uncompaghre Peak Trail No. 239 continued up the valley. At first, Nellie Creek was out of sight off to the SW as Lupe trotted along a forested stretch. Upon reaching the edge of the forest 0.25 mile from the trailhead, SPHP dumped the pack and sat down. The Carolina Dog laid down, too.

How are your paws faring, SPHP?

Surprisingly well, Loop. Thanks for asking! Now if only my lungs, heart, and legs felt more ambitious, we’d be in business. Hungry yet?

Not really. I’m fine, SPHP.

Suit yourself. Think I’ll have a little something.

A fruit cup hit the spot, without causing much further delay. The trail went on, and so did the American Dingo. Nellie Creek was soon nearby again, still a fast-flowing, rough and tumble stream, but much smaller up here. As Lupe closed in on treeline near 11,700 feet, views were starting to open up. Porous boulders full of air pockets were along the trail as snowfields appeared on high ridges ahead.

Getting close to treeline on **Uncompahgre Peak Trail No. 239**. Photo looks NW.

Before long, an enormous crag was in sight off to the W.

Uncompaghre Peak (14,309 ft.), SPHP?

Must be, or at least part of it, Loopster. It’s in the right direction.

First view of **Uncompaghre Peak** (R of Center). Photo looks W.

As the trail and Nellie Creek valley both turned toward the crag, some truly magnificent territory came into view.

**Upper Nellie Creek valley**. **Uncompaghre Peak** (R). Photo looks W.

Wow! This is going to be an awesome day, SPHP!

Gotta love this! Don’t ya, sweet puppy?

No. 239 soon crossed a small tributary of Nellie Creek at a flat mucky spot full of soft, gravelly sand. A little beyond this side creek, the trail switchbacked up a steep, 50 foot high bank to the N. Near the top, Lupe had to leave the trail to find a spot where she could scramble up onto a long snowbank clinging to the bank’s upper rim.

At the soft spot where another small stream joins Nellie Creek. Photo looks SW.

Reaching the top of the bank, a junction with Trail No. 232, which snaked N up the steep W flank of Peak 13106 on its way to Big Blue Creek, was nearby. Looked interesting, but to the W, Uncompahgre Peak beckoned beneath a deep blue sky beyond scattered dark conifers and brilliant white snowfields.

Dingo paradise is this way, SPHP!

**Uncompahgre Peak** from the junction with **Big Blue Creek Trail No. 232**.

So it is! Hang on for just a moment, though, Looper. This sign is loose.

SPHP managed to hand-tighten only one of the 2 nuts fastening the sign to the post. The other one wouldn’t budge on the bolt.

Eh, better than it, was. Onward! Puppy, ho!

W of the junction with Big Bear Creek Trail No. 232, Lupe and SPHP both enjoyed a relatively long, flat stretch along Uncompaghre Creek Trail No. 239. Beyond the last stands of conifers, an awesome region of tundra and snowfields was ahead. Lupe had a blast racing across the open ground as pikas and marmots whistled warnings on all sides.

Inevitably, the flat stretch gave way to a steady trudge higher. Lupe crossed one snowfield after another separated by tundra. No. 239 was often muddy where it wasn’t buried beneath the snow.

Heading up one of the snowfields. Photo looks SW.

6-23-23, 12:01 PM, 50ºF – The topo map showed a spring N of the trail near 12,620 feet. At a flat region of relatively dry tundra somewhat above and SW of this spring, SPHP was ready for another break. Lupe was starving. After eagerly gobbling some Taste of the Wild, she laid down next to SPHP. A cool, 10-15 mph SW breeze swept the open plain.

**Uncompaghre Peak** (R) from the break spot at 12,650 feet. Photo looks W.

Two people separated by a little distance were now in sight coming down the next snowfield, the only people Lupe had seen on paw all day. Loners, they soon walked by one at a time. Neither said a word.

Hmm. Well, let’s keep going, SPHP!

On the way up that next snowfield the trail turned S, and 3 more people appeared, also already on their way down. Young and laughing, they greeted Lupe warmly before moving on with a warning:

It’s really windy up on the ridge! No so bad at the summit, though!

Reaching the top of this snowfield, more were ahead. Peak 13158 was in sight as Lupe climbed toward the crest of Uncompahgre Peak’s SE ridge.

After ascending several more snowfields, Lupe reached another trail junction just as she gained the ridgeline. Matterhorn Creek Trail No. 233 veered off to the L here.

Those young people were right! A relentless 40 mph gale roared over the crest of the ridge from out of the WSW. Curving practically straight into the teeth of it, Uncompahgre Peak Trail No. 239 left the junction turning due W. Ahead, a long series of steps climbed toward a rounded hill hundreds of feet higher.

At the **junction with Matterhorn Creek Trail No. 233**. **Peak 13158** (L). Photo looks SE.

2 young men were coming down the steps. One recognized Lupe.

Hey! We know you! You were coming up when we were on our way down over at San Luis Peak 2 days ago, too!

Pausing to chat with SPHP, the men pointed NW toward the steep upper ridge forming the L shoulder of the crag, warning that the trail got kinda scrambly beyond it. Then off they went, too, continuing down the steps.

“Kinda scrambly”, what’s that supposed to mean, SPHP?

Don’t know, Loopster, but coming from a couple of young guys in great shape, I don’t much like the sound of it.

No. 239 curved NW before getting all the way to the top of the hill. A helpful development, because it put Lupe below the crest of the ridge again, partially protected from the full force of the gale. Still pretty windy, but this wasn’t a bad place to take another short break.

At the break spot partially protected from the wind. Photo looks NW.

Almost immediately, Lupe spotted 2 women coming down. Their outfits flapping wildly in the breeze, they offered another bit of advice as they went right on by without stopping:

Be careful up there!

Sheesh! Are we late for some kind of convention on Uncompahgre Peak that just broke up a little bit ago, Loop? Saw no one at all for hours, but now there’s a steady stream of people coming down.

Never mind that, SPHP. What kind of a trail is this? “Kinda scrambly!” “Be careful!” And look at that crag we’re heading for!

I know it! Thought this was supposed to be Class 2, no big deal, Loopster. Starting to get paranoid, though. C’mon! Onward! Puppy, ho! Before we get any more good news.

SPHP was wrong about getting any more news, though. Lupe wouldn’t see anyone else the rest of the day.

Uncompahgre Peak Trail No. 239 climbed back up onto the ridge again. Passing NE of several high points, the wind sounded terrible as it shot through wide gaps between them where stunning views to the W were framed by gigantic cliffs.

Both Wetterhorn Peak (14,015 ft.) and Matterhorn Peak (13,590 ft.) were out there only 2 or 3 miles away, along with an enormous amount of snow for late June.

The snowy scene from the crest of **Uncompahgre Peak’s SE ridge**. Photo looks WSW.

**Wetterhorn Peak** (Center), **Matterhorn Peak** (R). Photo looks W.

Approaching the steep slope below the upper ridge comprising the L shoulder of the crag, confidence returned. A few big switchbacks went right up it. Cake! The only question was what the American Dingo would see from the top.

Approaching the **upper L shoulder** (L of Center) of the crag. Photo looks NW.

View from the last windy window between high points. **Wetterhorn Peak** (R of Center). Photo looks W.

The switchbacks were easy, but near the top, SPHP’s paranoia returned.

Careful, Loopster! Stay close. Might be cliffs! No telling what we’ll see.

As soon as Lupe regained the ridgeline, the full force of the gale out of the W struck her again. Ahead, Trail No. 239 extended a short distance beyond the ridge before curling out of sight to the R. Cautiously making this turn, what came into view next was entirely different from what the rest of the trail had been like.

An already spectacular, unobstructed panoramic view of a vast region of snowy peaks and highlands was off to the SW. However, that wasn’t of immediate importance. Ahead, the terrain consisted of a steep talus slope that dropped many hundreds of feet. Traversing the talus and a snowfield, the trail headed toward columns of bedrock jutting skyward near the top of the slope.

Must be some way up between these columns, SPHP. C’mon!

On the talus slope beyond the crag’s L shoulder. Photo looks NNW.

After passing a rock formation, the route up became apparent. Trail No. 239 turned N straight up a very steep slope of loose soil and rock.

We’ve reached the “kinda scrambly” part, SPHP!

Yeah. Looks doable, Loopster, but I hope it doesn’t go on like this much above what we can see from here.

Carolina Dogs are natural scramblers. Lupe was clearly enjoying herself as SPHP toiled carefully after her, sending rocks clattering down the slope with nearly every step.

Heading up the loose stuff. Photo looks NNE.

Getting close to the top. Photo looks NE.

The route was steep enough to merit caution, but wasn’t too bad. After a 70 foot climb, it angled toward the E. As the terrain began leveling out again, Lupe rediscovered a distinct trail, which curved N, then back to the NNW among rock formations.

Rounding this corner, it was clear that Uncompahgre’s summit couldn’t be much farther. After crossing a small snowfield, a final, modest talus ridge was in sight beyond a rock-strewn plain.

Above the scramble, back on **Uncompahgre Peak Trail No. 239**. Photo looks NNW.

Approaching the final short, rocky ascent. Photo looks NNW.

Heading straight for a last line of cliffs along the SW face of the summit region, Trail No. 239 swept around to the NE, bypassing them once Lupe got close. A relatively short rocky climb got the American Dingo to a summit plateau hundreds of feet wide that sloped up toward the NW.

Below the last cliffs. Trail No. 239 angled NE (R), bypassing them. Photo looks NNW.

On **Uncompahgre’s summit plateau**. Photo looks NW.

6-23-23, 3:32 PM, Uncompahgre Peak (14,309 ft.) – The weary trudge higher was over! Along a ragged N edge, Lupe stood calmly at the brink of cataclysmic cliffs on a boulder that appeared to be Uncompaghre’s true summit. Beyond her, a couple more high points in contention for the honor were in sight, and several miles beyond them rose a line of dramatic, snow-bearing peaks.

Coxcomb Peak (13,656 ft.), Redcliff (13,642 ft.), Precipice Peak (13,144 ft.), Dunsinane Mountain (12,742 ft.)! None of them were as high as Uncompaghre. Even the soaring spire of Wetterhorn Peak (14,015 ft.) over toward the WSW was clearly lower, Matterhorn Peak (13,590 ft.) in the foreground diminutive by comparison.

At **Uncompahgre Peak’s true summit**. **Coxcomb Peak** (far L), **Redcliff** (L), **Precipice Peak** (R), **Dunsinane Mountain** (far R). Photo looks NW.

**Wetterhorn Peak** (R) with **Matterhorn Peak** (R) in the foreground. Photo looks WSW.

Holy smokers, Loopster! We actually made it! Uncompaghre! Can you believe it?

Shoot, this wasn’t so bad, SPHP. One little scramble! Nothing to it, if we could have started at the Nellie Creek trailhead, and skipped 2,000 feet of extra elevation gain.

Yeah, well, partly due to that extra 2,000 feet, I’m absolutely beat! Let me shake your paw, and let’s find a spot to sit down where it isn’t so dang windy.

Really wasn’t anywhere out of the wind up here, but finding a patch of tundra where Lupe could lay down in relative comfort near a group of boulders SW of the true summit, an attempt to use them as windbreaks provided at least some relief. Happily, at only 15-20 mph out of the W, the wind wasn’t nearly as bad as here as it had been on the SE ridge.

Exhausted, neither Lupe nor SPHP stirred, merely sitting there snacking while enjoying the stupendous views. Far to the ESE, SPHP was able to pick out Stewart Peak (13,983 ft.), Organ Mountain (13,801 ft.), and San Luis Peak (14,014 ft.), where Lupe had been just 2 days ago. From the true summit, the American Dingo had already seen that the territory to the N was much lower, except for a snow-capped range on the distant horizon.

The best views were to the S or W looking into the heart of the San Juan Range where an incredible amount of snow was still present. Above all, that snowy wilderness of jagged peaks to the WSW beyond spectacular Wetterhorn Peak (14,015 ft.) was an absolute jaw-dropper.

**Wetterhorn Peak** (R) with **Matterhorn Peak** (R) in the foreground. Photo looks WSW with help from the telephoto lens.

Sort of reminds me of being on Peak 6053 looking into Alaska, SPHP!

Yeah. Hard to believe we’re in southern Colorado right after the summer solstice, Loop.

6-23-23, 4:34 PM, 54ºF – The beef jerky supply wiped out entirely by the ravenous American Dingo, energy was returning as Lupe’s traditional summit hour ended. No rush to leave yet, though, since other than the ever-present annoying wind, conditions remained near perfect. Besides, it was picture time!

For the next half an hour, Lupe and SPHP wandered back and forth over the summit region, staying mostly among the various high points strung out along the N edge, while admiring the splendid views in all directions.

**Precipice Peak** (L), and **Dunsinane Mountain** (L of Center). **E fork of the Cimmaron River valley** (R). Photo looks NW.

Along the **W edge**. **Broken Hill (13,256 ft.)** (Center) in the foreground. Photo looks S.

**HP13052** (L) in the foreground. **Wetterhorn Peak** and **Matterhorn Peak** (far R). Photo looks SW.

**American Flats** (Center). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Back along the **N edge**. Photo looks ESE.

3 high points of nearly equal elevation were along the N edge. The one farthest E was the true summit. The middle high point featured a small cross, which was its claim to fame. However, it was the high point clear out at the NW end that provided the most dramatic perch. Lupe visited it several times.

The **cross** (R) at the **middle high point** (L) along the N edge. Photo looks NE.

On the **NW high point**. **Fortress Peak (13,241 ft.)** (Center), **Precipice Peak** (R), **Dunsinane Peak** (far R). Photo looks NW.

**Wetterhorn Peak** (L) beyond **Matterhorn Peak**. Photo looks W.

5:01 PM, Uncompahgre Peak, NW high point – Sadly, it was time. From this airy perch, SPHP started Lupe’s descent GPS track nearly 1.5 hours after she’d arrived at the true summit. Going right past the true summit for the final time, the Carolina Dog returned briefly to the highest rocks once again.

Final moments at **Uncompahgre Peak’s true summit.** Photo looks NW.

SPHP never found a registry or a survey benchmark, but on a collection of rocks only a bit E of the true summit, discovered a directional marker as Lupe departed.

A last look around, and it was Onward! Puppy, ho!

It was a long way back. Tragedy struck during the scramble’s descent when a rock fell, smashing SPHP’s R pinky toe. Fortunately, not broken, but painful nonetheless. Down on the SE ridge, the wind was as terrible as ever, but conditions improved steadily below it. On this gorgeous evening, Lupe had a grand time exploring the open country on the way back to Nellie Creek.

Heading back to Nellie Creek. Photo looks ENE.

The “slippery log” worked a second time at the upper ford. Arriving at the lower ford at dusk, the American Dingo refused to plunge into the fearsome, frigid stream again in the growing gloom. Sitting on a bank beyond SPHP’s reach, she refused to come down.

In the end, there was no other way. Leashed up, once into the stream, Lupe practically drug SPHP across in her eagerness to reach the safety of the far bank.

6-23-23, 10:20 PM – SPHP’s long hobble on the sore toe ended as the Carolina Dog leapt into the RAV4 and up onto her pink blanket. What a day it had been! Uncompahgre Peak had been awesome, entirely worth it! For the 3rd time on this Dingo Vacation, Lupe had set a new personal record for the 3rd highest mountain she’d ever climbed, coming within 124 vertical feet of her all-time best at Mount Elbert nearly 8 years ago.

Trying to sleep despite the throbbing toe, SPHP couldn’t help wondering if Lupe would ever again be on such a lofty perch as glorious, fabulous Uncompahgre Peak (14,309 ft.)?

On **Uncompahgre Peak**, San Juan Mountains, Colorado 6-23-23

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