Denali State Park – Page 2 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

K’esugi Ridge: Whimbrel Hill & the Golog Benchmark, Denali State Park, Alaska (8-19-16)

Day 21 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

Lupe was still in Alaska in gorgeous Denali State Park. Unfortunately, she wasn’t going to get a clear view of Denali (20,310 ft.) today, either. Rain had fallen overnight. It wasn’t raining now, but the morning sky was socked in with clouds. Looked like another morning would be wasted waiting on the weather.

SPHP drove to Byers Lake at milepost 147.0 along the George Parks Highway (Alaska Route 3), and found a picnic ground. Lupe and SPHP enjoyed a leisurely brunch. After Lupe’s long day yesterday spent climbing Indian Benchmark (4,558 ft.) and K’esugi Mountain (4,700 ft.) near the N end of the K’esugi Ridge Trail, maybe a restful morning was a good thing.

Nearby, a man sat under a large canvas canopy. He worked for a company renting out canoes and kayaks for short term use on Byers Lake. The company also offered rafting trips on the Chulitna River. Despite the cool, overcast weather, he was doing some business.

Finally, noon was approaching. Still nothing, but gray skies and the occasional stray raindrop. Was Lupe going back up to K’esugi Ridge, or not? It was a long way to the Golog Benchmark (2,970 ft.). Decision time. Even though Lupe was unlikely to see Denali (20,310 ft.), she would undoubtedly enjoy the trek. Best get going.

Signs said the suspension bridge over Byers Creek NE of the lake was unusable. Lupe would have to go the long way on the Byers Lake Trail around the SW end of the lake to get to the Cascade Trail. The long way added an extra 1.3 miles, but there was nothing to be done about it. So what? Lupe didn’t care.

Lupe on the Byers Lake Trail. Photo looks E.

Byers Lake, Denali State Park, Alaska. Photo looks NE.

At the SW end of Byers Lake, Lupe came to a long wooden bridge across the Byers Creek outlet. The smooth flowing stream was very wide and several feet deep.

Lupe on the long wooden bridge across the Byers Creek outlet from Byers Lake. The entire bridge over the placid stream was about 100 feet long. Photo looks N.

Three people were standing on the bridge, peering into the water. SPHP asked what they were doing. They were watching salmon swim upstream, came the reply. SPHP looked into the water, but saw nothing. Just wait, SPHP was told. The salmon come swimming up in small groups every 3 to 5 minutes. Sometimes they swim downstream from the lake, too.

Looking S (downstream) along Byer’s Creek. Three people were watching salmon swim upstream from this bridge when Lupe arrived. Photo looks S.

Sure enough! In only a couple of minutes, several salmon did come swimming upstream. They passed beneath the bridge, swimming slowly. The salmon appeared tired, perhaps exhausted, from their long migration all the way from the ocean to Byers Lake.

The poor salmon were already starting to disintegrate. They were arriving at Byers Lake battered and scarred from their heroic journey. They bore long white wounds on their backs where scales had flaked off, or been torn away from the flesh. The sight was both tragic and inspiring. The salmon deserved pity, respect, and admiration.

The salmon in Byers Creek were readily spotted by the long white scars on their backs where their scales were missing. The poor battered salmon had earned pity, respect and admiration.

One salmon was all red, except for its green head. That was a sockeye salmon. Lupe and SPHP stayed watching the salmon for 20 minutes before continuing on.

On the SE side of Byers Lake, the Byers Lake Trail was often muddy and slick. A great many tree roots made the trail rough and uneven. In places, large mushrooms grew near the trail. A few of them were brilliantly colored, and quite striking in appearance.

Large mushrooms grew in places along the Byers Lake Trail. Most of them were dull colors, but a few were brilliantly colored and striking in appearance.

Lupe passed by a small remote campground near the NE end of the lake. No one was there. Lupe was well beyond Byers Lake by the time she reached a junction with the Cascade Trail.

The Cascade Trail connects the Byers Lake Trail to the long K’esugi Ridge Trail popular with multi-day backpackers. Lupe had gained very little elevation coming around Byers Lake. Most of her elevation gain for the day would come along the Cascade Trail.

The Cascade Trail started off rising gently, but that changed pretty quickly. Soon Lupe was gaining elevation steadily at a good clip. The first part of the Cascade Trail was still down in a forest. Ferns grew in great abundance on the forest floor.

Before long, a roaring waterfall could be heard off to the NE, no doubt the cascade the trail was named after. Lupe never had a good view of it, however. The trail never got that close.

The trail passed over a small hill, then lost a little elevation going down to a creek. Lupe was still seeing colorful mushrooms along the way. Once down by the creek, the trail started a more serious climb. There were two creek fords, which were easily passable this time of year using stepping stones.

More colorful mushrooms. These were along the Cascade Trail.

The trail followed the creek up a narrow ravine for a while, then finally left it and began to switchback up onto K’esugi Ridge. The map SPHP had along showed the Cascade Trail was only 2.0 miles long. Maybe SPHP was just worn out from Lupe’s previous day’s adventure, but it seemed twice that long.

After an endless stretch down in the forest and then among tall bushes, Lupe was finally high enough above the dense vegetation to get a view of the progress she’d made. Byers Lake already looked surprisingly far away.

Lupe finally reached this viewpoint after a long climb on the Cascade Trail. Byers Lake(Center) was already surprisingly far away. The Chulitna River is seen in the distance. Photo looks WNW.

Lupe left the switchbacks behind. The Cascade Trail began to straighten out, climbing more directly up the slope toward the top of K’esugi Ridge. Gradually the slope of the terrain lessened. There was more good news, too! The sky was getting brighter. The clouds weren’t as gloomy and gray as before. Little patches of blue sky began to appear.

Before reaching the top of K’esugi Ridge, the Cascade Trail ended at an intersection. Lupe avoided taking the Upper Troublesome Creek Trail, which turned S (R). Both of her peakbagging objectives, Whimbrel Hill and the Golog Benchmark, were to the NE. Lupe headed ESE (L) on the K’esugi Ridge Trail.

The top of K’esugi Ridge wasn’t much farther. Lupe gradually gained another 200 feet of elevation. The trail had nearly topped out by the time Lupe reached a barren hillside overlooking Mini-Skinny Lake to the S.

The K’esugi Ridge Trail had nearly topped out by the time Lupe reached this barren hillside overlooking Mini-Skinny Lake. Photo looks SSE.

The K’esugi Ridge Trail gradually turned NE as Lupe continued on past Mini-Skinny Lake. For a while the trail was nearly level, passing over open tundra. Large boulders dotted the landscape, especially toward the NE end of the hill Lupe was on. With encouragement from SPHP, she got up on one of the biggest ones, which was sporting a cairn. From the boulder, Lupe could see her two peakbagging objectives for the day, still miles away.

As Lupe continued on the K’esugi Ridge Trail beyond Mini-Skinny Lake, large boulders dotted the tundra ahead. Photo looks ENE.

Lupe got up on the largest boulder she could find, which sported a cairn. Whimbrel Hill is the low ridge seen just to her R. Golog Benchmark is the highest distant point in the sunshine beyond the lake on the R. Photo looks NE.

Whimbrel Hill is in the distance to the R of Lupe.

Golog Benchmark(L) is the highest of the light-colored hills beyond the lakes. Photo looks NE using the telephoto lens.

Lupe had reached the NE edge of the big hill she was on. Ahead, K’esugi Ridge was miles wide, all wind-swept tundra. Lupe saw scattered lakes and ponds. A few trees struggled for survival. Bushes several feet high clustered near some of the creeks and wetlands. The terrain was undulating. From here on, all elevation changes would be gradual.

Whimbrel Hill (2,645 ft.) was the closest of Lupe’s objectives, still a couple miles to the NE. Lupe started down the hill, following K’esugi Ridge Trail toward it.

Lupe on her way to Whimbrel Hill. The summit is the high point seen directly above her. Photo looks NE.

After losing a fair amount of elevation, the K’esugi Ridge Trail disappeared as Lupe reached a marshy valley full of bushes. A stream with significant flow weaved through it all. Water seemed to be everywhere. Right next to where the trail had been heading, there was even a small pond with a couple of ducks on it.

Lupe saw two ducks on this little pond. One flew away at Lupe’s approach, but this one was unperturbed.

Lupe had no problem leaping over the stream, but SPHP went upstream, hoping the flow diminished in that direction. The stream was only a few feet wide, but it was fairly deep. Swampy ground made it hard to even get close to the stream’s edge, which was often poorly defined.

What SPHP didn’t realize was, this stream comes from the largest of the small lakes in the area. The flow wasn’t going to diminish upstream. Nevertheless, SPHP finally found a way across. Lupe continued NE on the K’esugi Ridge Trail, which reappeared on drier ground about where it could have been expected, if SPHP had simply splashed directly across the marsh.

The K’esugi Ridge Trail brought Lupe fairly close to the largest lake in the area, passing to the NW of it. N of the lake, the trail reached its closest point from Whimbrel Hill, which was still almost 0.5 mile farther N.

Lupe, now past the stream in the marshy valley, approaches the largest lake in the area. The K’esugi Ridge Trail never reached the lake, but passed fairly close by to the NW of it. Photo looks NE.

The K’esugi Ridge Trail ran next to this pond S of Whimbrel Hill(R). Once past this pond, Lupe left the trail to go climb Whimbrel. Photo looks N.

Lupe and SPHP left the K’esugi Ridge trail, and made the easy trek across the tundra to Whimbrel Hill. At the summit, Lupe found a rock shaped like a pedestal, or very flat mushroom. Rocks piled on top served as a rough cairn. Lupe jumped onto the pedestal to claim her first peakbagging success of the day! She graciously received congratulations from SPHP.

Lupe on the rock pedestal at the summit of Whimbrel Hill. The hill seen on the horizon beyond her is where she had just come from. Photo looks SW.

Lupe still on the summit pedestal on Whimbrel Hill. Golog Benchmark is on the horizon just L of Center. Lupe still had a long way to go to get there! Photo looks NE.

Lupe on a different rock, with a view of the largest lake in the area. Photo looks S.

At Whimbrel Hill, a decision had to be made. Due to Lupe’s very late start, it was already late in the day. Golog Benchmark was still a long way off to the NE. Going all the way to it clearly meant getting back to the G6 well after nightfall. Was Whimbrel Hill the end, or should the American Dingo forge on ahead to Golog?

The weather was basically good and seemed stable. Off to the NW, Denali and the Alaska Range were still cloaked in dark clouds. Rain showers could always be seen drifting NE along the Chulitna River valley in that direction. Over K’esugi Ridge, however, the clouds weren’t nearly so dark. Occasionally, Lupe basked in sunshine.

The terrain was easy, and Lupe would have trails to follow all the way back. This was probably Lupe’s only chance to ever get to Golog. If she left K’esugi Ridge now, who knew when, or if, she would ever return? The sun would still be up for another couple of hours.

Should Lupe go on to the Golog Benchmark(L) despite the late hour, or skip it? The bottom line was, conditions were OK, and this was probably Lupe’s only chance to ever go there. Photo looks NE.

Chance of a lifetime! If the Carolina Dog was ever going to see Golog Benchmark, she had best get going. Lupe and SPHP headed SE down Whimbrel Hill angling to meet up with the K’esugi Ridge Trail farther NE than where Lupe had left it.

Lupe had a blast on K’esugi Ridge! She displayed enormous energy racing across the tundra, sometimes so far from SPHP that she had to be called back to make certain she didn’t get lost. The distant tiny Dingo always returned at top speed, full of enthusiasm. It was still disappointing to SPHP that Denali wasn’t going to make an appearance, but that was the hand that had been dealt.

Lupe wouldn’t have changed a thing. Of all the grand adventures Lupe had on her Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon, and Alaska, Lupe might well rank this day roaming free on K’esugi Ridge as the best.

Lupe came to many little streams and ponds. The K’esugi Ridge Trail had lots of mucky, wet sections, and minor creek crossings. SPHP soon learned how to tell where the wetlands were by the appearance of the vegetation in the area. Lupe climbed rocks and hillsides. She investigated holes in the ground. She sniffed everywhere, discovering whatever mysteries float in the Alaskan breeze.

The tundra was alive with brilliantly colored low-lying plants. Crowberries and other berries were in great abundance. Beauty spread from beneath Lupe’s paws as far as the eye could see in every direction. What a fabulous place and wonderful day to be alive! The trek to Golog was long, but easy and magnificent.

Lupe spent most of her day on K’esugi Ridge running. She made frequent stops to investigate rocks and plants. Here she investigates a hole in the ground. She remained steadfastly enthusiastic despite receiving only a mouthful of dirt as a reward.

Lupe reached the K’esugi Ridge Trail again well to the NE of where she had left it. Photo looks SW back toward the largest lake in the area.

Crowberries like these grew in great abundance on K’esugi Ridge, and in many other places Lupe visited in Alaska. Sometimes SPHP ate a few. Not as good as blueberries, but they weren’t bad.

Another of the larger lakes Lupe saw on K’esugi Ridge.

No, that’s not the top of Golog ahead, but Lupe was steadily getting closer. Photo looks NE.

Red berries of unknown variety. SPHP didn’t try any of these. Lupe didn’t either.

Approaching Golog Benchmark from the SW. Photo looks NE.

The last marsh before the climb to the top of Golog. Photo looks S.

At last, Lupe drew near Golog. The trail rose steeply, twisting to avoid boulders. The climb took only a few minutes. Lupe arrived up on a fairly level summit area perhaps 60′ x 100′ in size. There was little vegetation. Most of the area was exposed bedrock. A huge boulder coated with light green lichens, was perched at the very top.

A chill and rather strong breeze was blowing. Although it had been sunny out not long before, the sun had sunk into the storm clouds to the NW hanging over the Alaska Range. Lupe took a break and had some Taste of the Wild, partially sheltered from the wind by the huge boulder. Meanwhile, SPHP searched around for a survey benchmark, but found none.

Lupe climbed to the top of the crowning boulder, to see if the actual survey benchmark was there. No, not here either, but Lupe had made it to the top of Golog Benchmark hill! Congratulations were in order once more. SPHP shook her paw, praising the energy, endurance, and enthusiasm she had displayed coming all this way.

Lupe on Golog’s huge crowning boulder coated with light green lichens. Photo looks NE.

Lupe jumped down off the huge boulder to escape the cold SW breeze. SPHP searched the larger summit area again, but never found the actual survey benchmark. That was a bit surprising. There was no question that Lupe was on the highest point around, and the trail had come right to it. This had to be Golog!

For 20 minutes, Lupe and SPHP remained on Golog. Lupe had seen only one person on K’esugi Ridge all day. In the chilly breeze, beneath the cloudy sky, the beautiful, vast, wild tundra felt desolate, forlorn, forgotten. The K’esugi Ridge Trail went on past Golog continuing NE for miles. Lupe could see Skinny Lake ahead (the big Skinny Lake, not Mini-Skinny), hundreds of feet lower than Golog.

From Golog, Lupe could see Skinny Lake. The K’esugi Ridge Trail continues on passing close by to the N (L) of Skinny Lake.

Somewhere out there, miles beyond Skinny Lake, the N end of the trail passed near K’esugi Mountain where Lupe had such a good time yesterday. Wouldn’t it be fun to backpack the entire trail someday? Yes, someday. A someday that likely would never come. Yet Lupe was here now, still young, strong and happy. A moment to be cherished and enjoyed.

Lupe’s time on Golog passed quickly.

Most of the larger summit area on Golog was exposed bedrock. The Chulitna River valley is in the distance. Photo looks WSW.

Looking NW toward the Chulitna River valley and stormy Alaska Range beyond. Somewhere over there, hidden by the storm, was Denali, the highest mountain in North America.

Whimbrel Hill(Center). The K’esugi Ridge Trail is seen below. Photo looks SW.

After Lupe left Golog, the sun managed to break through the clouds. Briefly, the tundra glowed, illuminated by weak, slanting rays. Earth’s star was fighting a losing battle. Gloom swallowed it whole a final time. Shadow spread over K’esugi Ridge.

For a while, Lupe resumed her energetic forays racing over the tundra, but even Carolina Dogs eventually tire. After two long days exploring the glories of K’esugi Ridge, Lupe was out of gas. She returned to SPHP on the trail. She begged SPHP to carry her, or stop and rest.

SPHP was close to being played out, too. There was no way Lupe could be carried any significant distance. There wasn’t time to take long rest breaks, either. Lupe needed to make it back to the junction with the Cascade Trail before it got too dark. It was important not to miss the turn. Lupe got a few short rest breaks, but that was all she was allowed.

Lupe on the way back. She is on a narrow plank bridge across one of the many wetlands along the K’esugi Ridge Trail. This bridge was long, skinny, and even had a curving 90° turn in it. It was one of the very few improvements along the trail. Photo looks SW.

Lupe arrived at the Cascade Trail while there was still enough twilight for SPHP to spot the junction. Lupe made the turn. The Cascade Trail hadn’t gotten any shorter, even though Lupe was now going downhill. When the American Dingo reached the black forest, the headlamp had to come out.

On and on, in the dark. Lupe seemed to have gained a second wind. SPHP, on the other hand, was dragging. By the time Lupe made it back to the Byers Lake Trail, each step was painful. Tree roots on the trail didn’t help.

Finally, it was over. SPHP limped back to the G6. Lupe jumped inside, anxious to lay down. Gads! 3:37 AM. No wonder. A piece of paper was under the windshield wiper. A reminder from officialdom that the $5.00 parking fee for the new day was already due. Splendid.

Well, Loop, we should get our $5.00 worth tomorrow. I doubt I’ll be able to budge from this spot. No response. Lupe was gone – still running joyful and free across the Alaskan tundra in Dingo Dreamland. Run, Loop, run!

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

K’esugi Ridge: Ermine Hill & Peak 3700, Denali State Park, Alaska (9-4-18)

K’esugi Ridge: Ermine Hill, Denali State Park, Alaska (8-26-17)

K’esugi Ridge: Indian Benchmark & K’esugi Mountain, Denali State Park, Alaska (8-18-16)

Denali State Park

Denali State Park Brochure

Map & Guide to K’esugi Ridge South Trail System

Map & Guide to K’esugi Ridge North Trail System

On K’esugi Ridge, Denali State Park, Alaska

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2016 Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

K’esugi Ridge: Indian Benchmark & K’esugi Mountain, Denali State Park, Alaska (8-18-16)

Days 18, 19 & 20 of Lupe’s 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

8-16-16. Morning in the Arctic. Still lots of clouds around, but the sun was shining promisingly on a field W of the Dalton Highway. Lupe and SPHP weren’t going anywhere.

Yesterday had been incredible! Lupe had succeeded in climbing Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.), close to 90 miles N of the Arctic Circle. Cold and soaking wet, Lupe and SPHP had returned after midnight, only to find the G6’s battery was dead.

Fortunately, the G6 was parked at a small pullout N of milepost 207 right alongside the Dalton Highway. SPHP raised the hood. Someone would stop to help. While Lupe sniffed around outside, SPHP arranged sopping wet clothes to dry on top of the G6, then proceeded to put things back in order inside. About the time SPHP was finishing up, a vehicle pulled up.

A couple of guys jumped out, and asked if everything was OK. Well, not quite. SPHP had jumper cables along, could they give the G6 a quick jump? Yeah, no problem. A couple minutes later, the G6 was purring again. Thanks, so very, very much! Would they take payment for their assistance? Nope. What great guys!

Lupe’s benefactors were Devon Drayton and John Antes. Devon had gotten a job and moved to Fairbanks 2.5 months ago. John lives in Pennsylvania, where he works as a website graphics designer. They were on their way N to Deadhorse on Prudhoe Bay to see the Arctic Ocean.

Devon and John were both friendly and kind to Lupe. After the jump start, they stayed chatting with SPHP for a while. They were impressed that Lupe had climbed Sukakpak and Dillon mountains. Devon had a scary tale about a narrow escape from being alone half-buried in snow. John described difficult hikes and mountain climbs in virtually impenetrable forests. The visit was fun, but eventually Devon and John had to hit the road.

Devon Drayton(L) and John Antes(R) helped Lupe and SPHP out with a jumpstart for the G6 on the morning of 8-16-16. Devon and John were on their way N to see the Arctic Ocean at Prudhoe Bay.

Thanks to Devon and John, the G6 was running! Lupe and SPHP spent the whole day driving S. Lupe crossed the Arctic Circle. She shared a beef stew picnic with SPHP at the Yukon River. By evening, Lupe was way down S in Fairbanks. She visited Pioneer Park there shortly before sunset.

Lupe visited Pioneer Park in Fairbanks shortly before sunset.

The next morning, Lupe left Fairbanks on Alaska Route 3, the George Parks Highway. Half an hour after leaving town, SPHP stopped at a pullout at a high point. Far away to the S were many impressive peaks. Even more remotely off to the SW, however, was a shocking sight.

Visible across an incredible distance, a colossal mountain clad in white rose to an impossible height! Otherwise totally exposed, the monster’s summit scraped the clouds. There could be no mistaking that gigantic peak. Lupe was getting her first look at Denali (20,310 ft.), the highest mountain in North America!

There was no mistaking this massive white mountain, totally dominating the far horizon. Lupe was getting her first look at Denali, the highest mountain in North America! Photo looks SW using the telephoto lens.

The sight of Denali was exciting! Often the mountain is obscured by clouds for many days at a time. Today, it appeared Lupe had an excellent chance of getting a grand view of the mountain up close! Plans for the day changed instantly. Suddenly, Lupe’s primary objective was to reach the N Denali viewpoint at milepost 162.6 along the George Parks Highway as soon as possible.

It was farther to the viewpoint than SPHP realized. Traffic was heavy. There was considerable road construction. A lot of time was lost waiting for pilot cars. Hours went by. When Lupe arrived at the N Denali viewpoint in Denali State Park, the mountain had vanished. A bank of clouds hung over the Alaska Range. Most disappointing.

SPHP drove over to the Little Coal Creek trailhead at milepost 163.9. Lupe could take the Little Coal Creek trail up onto K’esugi Ridge. If Denali reappeared, Lupe would have a fantastic view from up there! The sky had been clouding up, though. It was already after 3 PM. How likely was it Denali would reappear today? No, maybe it was best to just go back to the original plan for the day.

That meant driving 50 miles back to Cantwell. The plan had been for Lupe to check out a couple of mountains in that area, and get positioned to be ready to climb one or the other of them tomorrow.

The drive back to Cantwell was gorgeous. Some of the rugged lower peaks of the Alaska Range, were in view N of the highway. They weren’t Denali by a long shot, but they were still impressive.

Lower peaks of the Alaska Range seen N of the George Parks Highway on the way back to Cantwell.

About 10 miles NE of Cantwell, Lupe checked out Panorama Mountain (5,778 ft.) from the George Parks Highway. There was no trail up Panorama Mountain as far as SPHP knew. Almost none of the route up Slime Creek that SPHP had hoped Lupe might be able to take was visible from the highway. Panorama Mountain looked challenging. The probability of success was too low.

Panorama Mountain near Denali National Park from the George Parks Highway. Photo looks SE.

Next Lupe went to check out Reindeer Hills (5,102 ft.), situated 6 or 7 miles E of Cantwell, and 2 miles N of gravel Denali Highway (No. 8). There was no trail up Reindeer Hills, either, but Reindeer Hills looked much easier to climb than Panorama Mountain. SPHP liked the idea. Lupe would easily be able to do this! Reindeer Hills looked like a fun climb.

The Reindeer Hills located ENE of Cantwell looked very promising as a possible Lupe peakbagging objective! The high point is on the R. Photo looks NE.

The Reindeer Hills high point. This looked like a fun, relatively easy climb for Lupe. There were much more rugged mountains around in every direction, too. The views from the top would be fabulous! Photo looks NE.

Unfortunately, as SPHP drove E on Denali Highway No. 8 looking for the best point for Lupe to start her trek up the Reindeer Hills, there were “No Trespassing” signs posted all along the road. Land in the area was owned by a Native American tribe. The signs said a permit was required to enter.

Lupe made stops at a number of scenic points along Denali Highway No. 8. Near a small lake of SE Reindeer Hills, an old map was posted showing the extent of the Native American lands. Reindeer Hills didn’t appear to be included, but there was no reasonable access point that didn’t cross the Native American property.

Lupe at the small lake SE of Reindeer Hills where a map was posted which appeared to show there was no access to Reindeer Hills without crossing Native American property. Photo looks SE at different mountains beyond the lake.

Lupe made one foray toward Reindeer Hills from the SE where the map showed a possible route avoiding the Native American tribe’s land. The terrain wasn’t favorable on this approach. A lake, and possibly a river, blocked the way. Photo looks NW at Reindeer Hills.

Sadly, the Reindeer Hills idea had to be abandoned. The long drive back to the Cantwell area had been a waste, but at least the situation was clear. Tomorrow, Lupe would go to K’esugi Ridge in Denali State Park. Her objectives would be to climb to the Indian Benchmark and K’esugi Mountain. SPHP hoped the weather would be clear, so Lupe would get a great view of Denali.

Lupe and SPHP enjoyed a beautiful evening drive back toward Denali State Park.

Lupe briefly visited this lovely creek S of Denali Hwy No. 8 before leaving the Cantwell area. Photo looks SE.

Looking SW over Summit Lake along the George Parks Highway.

A pensive Lupe in the G6 enjoying the ride back toward Denali State Park in Alaska, 8-17-16.

As Lupe got closer to Denali State Park again, there it was, off in the distance. Denali was back! SPHP hoped it was a good omen for Lupe tomorrow.

On the way back toward Denali State Park, Lupe caught a glimpse of Denali in the evening light. Was it a good omen for Lupe tomorrow? SPHP hoped so. Photo looks WSW using the telephoto lens.

The next morning, conditions weren’t nearly as encouraging. The sky was totally overcast. Rain looked like a real possibility. Low fog drifted among the mountains. Denali was nowhere in sight.

The morning of 8-18-16, the weather was looking iffy. Photo looks SW toward Indian Benchmark(L) and K’esugi Mountain(Center).

SPHP wasn’t at all certain Lupe should even attempt the climb up to the Indian Benchmark and K’esugi Mountain. No point in going in rain or fog. SPHP drove to the Little Coal Creek trailhead at milepost 163.9 along the George Parks Highway, anyway. At the trailhead, Lupe waited in suspense, while SPHP checked maps and prepared for the trek.

There was no discernable change in the weather by the time everything was ready. May as well try it, and hope for the best. Lupe could always turn back, if conditions deteriorated. Lupe and SPHP set off on the Little Coal Creek Trail (11:10 AM, 56°F).

The trail started out in the forest. At first, there no views and only gradual elevation gain, but that began to change when the trail got closer to Little Coal Creek. The trail turned ESE staying N of the creek, and began to climb steadily. Little Coal Creek was seldom seen, down in a deep ravine.

Lupe’s first real views came when the trail reached treeline. The sky was still overcast. Clouds clung to the mountaintops. At least it wasn’t raining.

Lupe above treeline on the Little Coal Creek Trail. Clouds were still clinging to the peaks. Photo looks SE.

Only the lowest glories of the Alaska Range beyond the broad Chulitna River valley were in view below the clouds. Photo looks NW using the telephoto lens.

The last part of the climb along the Little Coal Creek Trail was fairly steep. The trail then leveled out entirely, even beginning to lose a little elevation as it turned SW. Lupe was almost to the end of the 3.3 mile long Little Coal Creek Trail. Soon it would become the K’esugi Ridge Trail where it crosses the ravine Little Coal Creek originates from N of K’esugi Mountain.

Lupe had already gained 1,750 feet of elevation from the trailhead. By now she was well above treeline, even bushline, up on open tundra. The views would already have been spectacular, if it had been a clear day.

Lupe wasn’t continuing on to the K’esugi Ridge Trail. Her first peakbagging objective, the Indian Benchmark (4,558 ft.) was off trail to the SE. Ahead, Lupe could see a large ridge that swept around to the E before curving to approach Indian Benchmark from the NE. The long ridge looked like an easy climb. Only the last little bit near the summit, partially hidden in the clouds, looked like it might present a problem. What could be seen from down here didn’t look too bad.

Lupe reaches flat open tundra near the end of the Little Coal Creek Trail. Ahead, seen directly above her partially hidden in the clouds, is her first peakbagging objective, the Indian Benchmark. The plan was to take the long, sweeping ridge over to the E (L) and then back to the SW (R) up to the summit. In practice, Lupe took a shortcut up to the saddle seen almost straight up from the L edge of the backpack. Photo looks SE.

Lupe abandoned the Little Coal Creek Trail, and made for the start of the long sweeping ridge to the Indian Benchmark. The ridge route was easy. So easy that Lupe followed the sweeping ridge only partway. To save time, she cut straight across the tundra past a small pond on her way SSE to the base of a higher saddle. After a steep climb, she regained the ridgeline only 0.33 mile NE of the summit.

Lupe on the long sweeping ridge before taking a shortcut directly to the saddle seen on the L. Indian Benchmark is now nearly cloud-free on the R. Photo looks S.

A pond comes into view. Lupe would pass to the R of it. Photo looks S.

Looking SSW at Indian Benchmark using the telephoto lens now that the lowest clouds have drifted away from the summit. The N face looked daunting. Lupe wouldn’t be able to climb that!

Lupe takes a break (SPHP needed one) on her way up to the saddle NE of Indian Benchmark. The long, high ridge in the background is part of K’esugi Mountain. Photo looks WSW.

Still on the climb to the high saddle, which is to the R of this photo. Taking this shortcut enabled Lupe to skip going over the rocky part of the sweeping E ridge seen beyond her. Photo looks NE.

When Lupe regained the ridgeline, SPHP was concerned. The upper slopes of Indian Benchmark looked mighty steep. Lupe went SW along the ridge to get as close and high as possible prior to a final assessment.

Yikes! Lupe has reached the ridgeline up on the high saddle, but the upper slopes of Indian Benchmark look a lot steeper and more formidable than they had from below. Photo looks SW.

As Lupe drew near the base of the sharp final rise up to the top of Indian Benchmark, SPHP became increasingly dismayed. The N face of the mountain was way too cliffy to consider, as expected. Any hopes of climbing straight up the narrow NE ridge were dashed, too. Lupe could get partway up, but then it looked way too intimidating.

However, the previously unseen SE face was the real disappointment. A very long, steep, rocky slope plunged far, far below to the Indian River valley. Above Lupe’s current position, the slope began at the base of even steeper, more intact rock formations, almost cliffs, close to the top of the mountain.

Lupe near the base of the final steep rise to the top of Indian Benchmark. SPHP had hoped Lupe would be able to climb directly up the narrow NE ridge (straight ahead) or the SE face (on the L), but they both looked intimidating. What now? Photo looks SW.

Even though she was still below the top of Indian Benchmark, Lupe had this tremendous view to the E. Encouragingly, blue sky was visible toward the S.

Had coming this way all been a huge mistake? Lupe was only 100-150 feet below the summit. Up to this point, her route up Indian Benchmark had been simple and sweet. Now there appeared to be no safe way up the final short stretch.

Maybe Lupe should have climbed K’esugi Mountain first? The topo map showed a gently sloping ridge 0.125 mile wide going all the way to the summit of Indian Benchmark from K’esugi Mountain. In fact, Lupe could see part of that wide ridge from here. There was no way over to it. Lupe would have to traverse the N face of Indian Benchmark to get there. That just wasn’t happening.

Lupe could see part of the broad, gentle ridge leading to Indian Benchmark from K’esugi Mountain. Getting to the top of Indian Benchmark from that direction would have been a stroll in the park for Lupe. Unfortunately, there was no safe way over there from here. Photo looks W at K’esugi Mountain.

Time to calm down and consider the possibilities, all the possibilities – including retreat. Lupe and SPHP milled around on the ridgeline, studying the views, especially the view of that unexpectedly steep SE face of the mountain. The N face was definitely out. It didn’t take long to conclude the narrow spine of the NE ridge to the top wasn’t worth trying, either, but that SE face … maybe it was possible to traverse that SE face and find a way?

If it hadn’t been for some of the experiences Lupe had already been through on her Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation, SPHP would most certainly have called a retreat. King’s Throne and Decoeli in the Yukon, Sukakpak and Dillon here in Alaska N of the Arctic Circle, they had all been challenging, daunting, even scary. Yet Lupe had made it to the top of them all.

Most of those rocks on the SE face were fairly large. They looked pretty stable.

Loop, let’s see how it goes!

Despite the dizzying view, things went fine, at first. The rocks were mostly stable. Lupe and SPHP picked a way along to the SW, gaining elevation gradually. After some of Lupe’s other recent climbs, this wasn’t even scary. Hopes began to soar.

Soon Lupe was near the base of some of the larger intact rock formations. There appeared to be a reasonable route higher near one of the first ones. Lupe and SPHP started up. After a little progress, it was a no go. Too cliffy! Lupe retreated. She continued working SW.

Another opportunity to climb higher soon presented itself beyond another rock formation. Up and up. Slowly, carefully. The route got steeper, but there were handholds and footholds for SPHP. Somehow, Lupe never seems to have a problem scrambling. She was getting close to the top of the ridge visible above.

A false summit! The top couldn’t be much farther, though. Wrong again. Lupe climbed and climbed. The route was getting steeper. Progress was slow. There was starting to be more exposure than SPHP cared for. The intrepid Carolina Dog showed no concern, but SPHP was on the verge of retreat again.

Another 5 or 6 feet almost straight up, there appeared to be some kind of a top, or at least a ledge. SPHP made Lupe wait below, carefully climbing and then hoisting up onto the ledge, face and stomach down on the rock. SPHP looked up, legs still dangling over the edge. The view ahead was amazing and unexpected.

SPHP was at the far NE end of a narrow ridge. The ridge was flat, perhaps 3 or 4 feet wide, 20 feet long, and covered with smallish to medium-sized rocks. Drop-offs were on both sides. After 20 feet, the ridge broadened out tremendously.

Looper! You’ve done it! We’re here!

Lupe was up in a flash. SPHP literally crawled along the ridge, not daring to stand up until it had broadened out. As soon as SPHP stood up, there it was! One step to the N, sat the Indian Benchmark.

The Indian Benchmark sits near the far NE end of the vast summit area at the high point of the mountain. A register is nearby, but there’s not much of a summit cairn. Plenty of rocks around to build one, though!

This was it! The summit of Indian Benchmark mountain. SPHP congratulated Lupe heartily on her latest peakbagging success! Somehow Lupe had reached the top of the mountain right at its very NE end. SPHP must have turned to climb directly up the SE slope much sooner than intended. Lupe hadn’t been very far from coming right up that NE spine of the mountain SPHP had supposedly ruled out.

The sky was clearing. Off to the NW, the top of a gigantic peak peered over the remaining clouds. Denali!? For 10 minutes, Denali spied on Lupe, then vanished.

Skies were clearing as Lupe reached the Indian Benchmark. The top of Denali, or some massive peak, appeared briefly above the remaining clouds, as if the mountain was peering over to see how Lupe was faring. Photo looks NW.

That was a little spooky, Loop! It’s as if Sauron has taken over Denali and is spying on you! You aren’t carrying some ring of power on a necklace concealed under your fur with the intention of destroying it at Mt. Doom are you?

Mind your own business, SPHP! The burdens of an American Dingo are no concern of yours. My precious is … I mean, my burdens are my own.

Just wondering, for a few minutes there, I was starting to believe we were climbing Mt. Doom.

By the way, SPHP, is Mt. Doom somewhere around here? Is it on our itinerary?

No, not as far as I know.

Not far from the survey benchmark, a little out onto the broad summit area, Lupe came to a ridiculously small cairn for a mountain covered with loose rocks. A heavy-duty registry container leaned against it. Lupe’s name is not on the registry. Someone had closed the container so tightly, SPHP couldn’t get it open. Oh well, time for a short break and photos.

Lupe on Indian Benchmark mountain at the pathetic little summit cairn. Photo looks SW.

Looking NE toward the end of the mountain where Lupe came up.

Intrepid Loopster on Indian Benchmark. Photo looks NNE.

Looking down on a good deal of the territory Lupe traveled through on her way to Indian Benchmark from the Little Coal Creek Trail.

K’esugi Mountain(R), Lupe’s next peakbagging objective, from Indian Benchmark. Getting across that broad, gentle ridge was going to be a snap! Photo looks W.

Looking SE across the Indian River valley. The large lake on the R is the one marked 1395 ft. elevation on the Peakbagger.com topo map.

As glorious as the views were, Lupe and SPHP stayed only 15 or 20 minutes up on Indian Benchmark. Time waits for no Dingo. Although it had certainly turned into a beautiful day with blue skies and white clouds, Lupe had gotten a rather late start due to the questionable morning weather. Lupe still had to get to K’esugi Mountain (4,700 ft.), her next peakbagging objective.

Lupe about ready to leave Indian Benchmark for K’esugi Mountain, seen beyond her. Photo looks W.

A final look SW along K’esugi Ridge from Indian Benchmark. The K’esugi Ridge Trail popular with backpackers doesn’t come up onto the top of the ridge in this area, staying much lower down NW of K’esugi Mountain. Meanwhile, Carolina Dogs prowl among these remote high points.

Lupe starts down Indian Benchmark. Photo looks E.

Lupe went W, crossing the huge ridge over to K’esugi Mountain. Along the way, Lupe had a great view back at Indian Benchmark and much of the NE ridge she had traveled to get there.

Indian Benchmark(R) from the E slopes of K’esugi Mountain. Much of the upper part of Lupe’s route up to Indian Benchmark is seen from the saddle(Center) then R along the NE ridge toward the summit. Photo looks ENE.

Less than an hour after leaving Indian Benchmark, Lupe arrived at the summit of K’esugi Mountain. A 3 or 4 foot high semi-circular rock wall served as a summit cairn. Lupe liked the rock wall. It provided a bit of shelter from a cold breeze.

A registry was in a sturdy container nearly identical in every respect to the one on Indian Benchmark, with the single important exception that SPHP was able to get this one open. While Lupe hid out in the semi-circle, SPHP logged her K’esugi Mountain peakbagging success into the summit registry.

The summit area on Indian Benchmark had been large, but the top of K’esugi Mountain was even bigger. While the part of it seen here is quite flat, large areas sloped gently down at gradually increasing rates from the perimeter in most directions. Photo looks N.

Lupe takes shelter from the wind. Finally, a useful summit cairn! Photo looks WSW.

Lupe spent nearly an hour up on K’esugi Mountain. She explored parts of the huge summit area. SPHP had the idea that she would be able to go down the NW side of the mountain. Not terribly thorough investigations in that direction were not encouraging.

Indian Benchmark from K’esugi Mountain. Photo looks E.

Lupe explores the huge summit area. The rock wall cairn at the actual true summit is in view to the SSW.

It would have been absolutely awesome fun if Denali would have come out to play. The views would have been so tremendous! To the S, skies were blue with puffy white clouds, but Denali and the rest of the Alaska Range to the NW stubbornly remained hidden in the clouds. If anything, the sky was gradually clouding up even more in that direction again.

Denali and the rest of the Alaska Range NW of the Chulitna River valley refused to come out of the clouds to play with Lupe. If anything, the sky was clouding up even more in that direction. The rocks on parts of K’esugi Mountain were very dark, almost black, like those seen here. On closer inspection, they were all covered with thick black lichens. Photo looks WSW.

The beautiful Chulitna River valley. Photo looks W.

Lupe never went back to the NW end of the mountain to see if there really was a way down, or not. There seemed to be enough time left in the day for Lupe to explore a longer route. When it was time to leave, Lupe went S instead of N.

The route became a little worrisome. The S ridge Lupe was going down became progressively narrower and steeper. SPHP feared Lupe might cliff out, but she didn’t. Lupe made it down to a big saddle leading over to the next high hill to the W.

Going down the steep S ridge of K’esugi Mountain. Photo looks W.

Lupe left the saddle going NW down a long rocky slope. She lost another 300 feet of elevation before the terrain leveled out. SPHP took a long time, but finally made it down. Lupe turned N.

Ahead was rough terrain, an open wilderness filled with a variety of features. There were rocks and ridges, hills and drop-offs, large boulder fields left by landslides or erosion. Green oases surrounded diminutive mirror-like ponds connected by sparkling streams. Soft tundra, easy on the paws, blanketed part of the scene. A slowly melting snowbank invited Lupe to cool off.

The air was cool; the evening light, dramatic; the solitude, complete. Lupe dashed around at great speed, abruptly changing directions, exploring wherever she wanted to go. She stopped to drink cold water, and sniff the wild world. As far as Lupe was concerned, this was the best part of the day. For an hour, she was in Dingo Paradise.

Looking NE along part of the NW face of K’esugi Mountain.

Pure joy NW of K’esugi Mountain. Photo looks W.

N face of K’esugi Mountain. Photo looks S.

At a little pass near 3,500 foot elevation, Lupe found the K’esugi Ridge Trail. She followed it E back to the Little Coal Creek Trail she had left many hours before. Three guys from Houston, Texas were standing on the trail. They had expensive wonderful cameras, and were planning to camp nearby, hoping to get some shots of Denali at sunrise tomorrow.

Twilight was already fading fast, but for a few minutes, a little patch of Denali peered stealthily at Lupe through a hole in the clouds. Everyone was tremendously excited and encouraged. SPHP wished the guys from Houston well. Then Lupe proceeded down Little Coal Creek Trail looking forward to a meal and 40 winks at the G6. (11:31 PM)

Note: The 3.3 mile long Little Coal Creek Trail is the northernmost of several access routes to the K’esugi Ridge Trail in Denali State Park. The K’esugi Ridge Trail is popular with multi-day backpackers for its alpine terrain and sweeping views to the N of Denali and the Alaska Range. The traverse of K’esugi Ridge from the Little Coal Creek trailhead is as much as 37 miles to the Upper Troublesome Creek trailhead, but shorter treks are possible using other access trails.

Link to Map & Guide of K’esugi Ridge Trail System North

Link to Map & Guide of K’esugi Ridge Trail System South