Canada – Page 2 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Mount Hare, Richardson Mountains, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-17-23)

Part 2 of Day 25 & Day 26 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-16-23, 10:40 AM, 52ºF – It did seem a shame to leave the Land of the Pingos and the Arctic Ocean on the first sunny morning since Lupe had arrived, but her time in Tuktoyaktuk was over. Hwy 10 was dusty and bumpy as the RAV4 rolled S through low hills and a multitude of lakes on the way back to Inuvik. On her pink blanket, Lupe was bright-eyed and alert, watching the world go by.

Will we be driving all day, SPHP?

Yeah, most of it, Loopster. We’ll make a couple of quick stops for fuel and supplies in Inuvik. Among other things, I’m going to buy out the rest of their Allsorts licorice stock at North Mart! I like it! Then we have 2 more long drives to the ferries at the Mackenzie and Peel rivers. Should be back in the Richardson Mountains by this evening. If the weather’s decent, I’m hoping we can climb Peak 1402M tomorrow.

We’ll pass the Tithegeh Chii Vitaii trail again S of Inuvik, SPHP. Can we at least stop there for a while? Last chance to see Campbell Lake, and I love doing that loop up to the ridge overlooking it.

Oh, I don’t want to miss out on that, either, Looper. It will be a nice break. Besides, we’ve never seen Campbell Lake on a sunny day before.

8-16-23, 3:12 PM, 55ºF – So far the day had gone according to plan. Doing the loop trail counter-clockwise this time, the American Dingo was back on the bluff near the Tithegeh Chii Vitaii Loop High Point (385 ft.) with the best view of Campbell Lake. Fun being here again! Unfortunately, the Carolina Dog still hadn’t seen the big lake on a sunny day. Before reaching Inuvik, the sky had clouded over.

**Campbell Lake** from the **Tithegeh Chii Vitaii Loop**. Photo looks NNE.

Once back at the RAV4, the dusty drive S resumed, minus any further stops of consequence. Lupe mostly snoozed, but every now and then briefly peered out at the dull, flat road. The Carolina Dog reached the Mackenzie River just in time for SPHP to drive right aboard the free ferry moments before it took off. After crossing the big river, the Dempster Highway entered a somewhat more interesting region of lakes and a few low hills among the boreal forest.

8-16-23, 6:53 PM, 56ºF – After a second ferry crossing at the Peel River, an increasingly scenic drive SW to the Richardson Mountains began.

A glance back at the **MV Abraham Francis ferry** after crossing the **Peel River**. Photo looks NE.

Beautiful, unspoiled territory as far as the eye could see, but as the RAV4 approached the Richardson Mountains, the darkly overcast sky was not at all encouraging. Without a major change for the better, prospects seemed equally dim for a decent shot at Peak 1402M.

Not looking very good, SPHP. You never know, though! Might be sunny tomorrow.

True enough, but I wouldn’t bet on it, Loop. We’ll see if we can find a spot to hang out for the night, though, up at the first pass. May as well be in position to take advantage, if we do get lucky.

8-16-23, 7:55 PM, 52ºF – Driving slowly as the RAV4 approached the Pass 770M region, what SPHP had been looking for materialized on the L (S). A wide dirt road led off to what appeared to be a highway maintenance yard where stacks of pipe, presumably for use as culverts, were visible.

A simple pullout would be better, Loop, but this ought to serve our purpose for the time being. You hungry? Getting to be about that time.

Only the lower slopes of the mountains were in view, the mountaintops all draped in soft gray obscurity, as SPHP shared a tasty feast of piping hot chicken and dumplings with the Carolina Dog. Suddenly, Lupe quit eating. Staring W across the tundra, her hackles rose up.

Glancing over that way, SPHP saw them, too. A large grizzly was leading two cubs along the base of a mountain. A moment later, they were lost in the veil of a fog that swept in from the E, hiding them from view.

8-17-23, 8:33 AM, Pass 770M – Fog repeatedly formed down in the valley to the W, then came sweeping up this way, but always dissipated before getting this far. Overhead, small patches of blue provided reason for hope amid a mostly cloudy sky.

A narrow road Lupe had ventured over to during yesterday evening’s fog, was now in view on the opposite side of the Dempster Highway. High above this road, the microwave tower it went to was also in sight.

I don’t know, Looper. A better situation than I expected, but too much of a long shot unless there’s further improvement. I’ll get the pack ready just in case, then work on the trip journal while we wait to see what develops.

8-17-23, 10:36 AM, MDT, 48ºF, Pass 770M – Sniffing the cool, fresh air, Lupe stood on the road to the highway maintenance yard. Sadly, every last bit of blue sky had vanished long ago.

On the road to the **highway maintenance yard**. Photo looks SE.

Pondering the situation at **Pass 770M**. **Microwave tower** (L). Photo looks NW.

How much longer are we going to wait, SPHP? Can we at least take a walk?

Sure, Loop. Pack’s ready, but I really hesitate to set out for Peak 1402M in this. No point in it. Way too easy for the mountains to just get all socked in with fog again.

Within minutes of setting out on a short walk, the first raindrops began to fall. Soon a steady rain set in.

Back to the RAV4, Loopster! Hate to say it, but this isn’t going to work. No sense in hanging around any longer.

8-17-23, 10:38 AM, PDT, 47ºF, Wright Pass – During the drive here, Lupe had enjoyed seeing the Northwest Territories again as she had first found them back in 2018 – a land of great beauty and mystery, the sky full of big clouds with fog clinging to all the mountaintops, with a mix of both mist and sunshine moving over the lowlands below. No such mix here on the border with the Yukon. Wright Pass was socked in with dense fog.

Back at **Wright Pass** on the **Yukon/Northwest Territories border**.

Seems we’ve made the right decision in pressing on, Loop.

We had a lot of fun in the Northwest Territories on this Dingo Vacation, SPHP. Sad to be leaving, but I’m glad we came.

Next stop, the Arctic Circle, Looper, and beyond that, Eagle Plains.

Heading S into the Yukon from Wright Pass, the RAV4 was soon below the fog shrouding the mountains. For a while, SPHP drove through light rain showers. Within half an hour, though, the rain was over. Starting to seem like just an ordinary cloudy day.

As the drive continued, shafts of sunlight could be seen illuminating the tundra here and there over a wide area W of the Richardson Mountains.

You know, Loop, I’m beginning to think that nothing’s going to happen here. Maybe these clouds are going to start breaking up?

Are you thinking what I’m thinking, SPHP?

We’ll soon be coming to the turn for a peak we’ve wanting to visit for years, Loopster. Might have to abort, if I’m wrong about the weather, but this is our absolute last chance to climb a mountain in the Richardson Range on this Dingo Vacation.

Mount Hare (4,052 ft.), SPHP?

Yeah, Mount Hare.

Let’s go for it, SPHP!

8-17-23, 12:14 PM, 56ºF – The L turn off the Dempster Highway toward the Richardson Mountains that SPHP had been looking for appeared roughly 10 km S of Vadziah Kan Creek. A narrow side road went 0.6 km E to a gravel yard situated at the base of the mountains. Still mighty cloudy, but it hadn’t rained for a while, and whether prudent, or not, Lupe and SPHP were both eager to give Mount Hare a shot.

Parked among the bushes at the **S end of the gravel yard**. Photo looks E.

A look at the **gravel yard**. Photo looks N.

The pack was already prepared, so after a quick look at the very roomy gravel yard, it was time.

Onward! Puppy, ho!

Which way, SPHP?

SE, Loop! You probably can’t see it due to all these tall bushes, but there’s a hill not too far beyond them over that way that’s likely our best bet for getting to some firm ground without much vegetation fast.

Easily finding a route through the bushes, Lupe quickly emerged in a small valley. This drainage was a little tussocky and overgrown, but the hill of light gray scree that SPHP had been referring to was just ahead.

Heading for the **first scree hill**. Photo looks SE.

An easy traipse up the scree, which really was a nice, firm surface, to the top of this first hill didn’t take long. Looking ENE, a dip led to a slightly higher similar hill that wasn’t far away at all. Glancing back at the RAV4 down at the gravel yard, it was surprising how much elevation the American Dingo had already gained.

On the **first scree hill**. Photo looks ENE.

A quick glance back at the **RAV4** (Center) down at the **gravel yard**. **Dempster Highway** beyond. Photo looks NW.

Heading for the next scree hill was the obvious choice. Once there, a fairly deep valley was ahead. Looking NNE, a relatively minor dip led to a beautiful slope and a high point promising access to a much higher ridge to the NE.

That’s the way we want to go, SPHP. Follow me!

On the **second scree hill** contemplating **HP840M** (L of Center). Photo looks NNE.

The trudge up to HP840M was fairly steep, especially near the end. On the way, Lupe ran into low bushes, and even an easily avoided stand of stunted trees. HP840M proved to be a very scenic, somewhat dramatic point. A 20 foot high escarpment of sharply slanting rock, consisting of many thin layers, featured a line of small cliffs facing E.

Lupe went clear to the top of the HP840M ridge, which was only a few feet wide, and quite flat for 50 feet along its length. Tufts of tundra grew up here, which provided a comfy spot to take a short break. Views of the foothills of the Richardson Mountains, and the Dempster Highway off to the W, were already terrific.

On **HP840M**. **HP860M** (Center) ahead. Photo looks N.

Lupe on **HP840M**. **Dempster Highway** (R) in the distance. Photo looks S.

Wow! If we did nothing else, this view alone is worth the effort, Looper.

It’s tremendous, SPHP, but you’re not pooping out on me now. We’re going all the way to Mount Hare!

After 15 awesome minutes on HP840M, SPHP was ready to continue. On an easy and interesting slope where foot high lines of the thin-layered rock broke the surface standing almost perfectly on end, Lupe headed N toward HP860M. However, the Carolina Dog didn’t have to go clear to the top. Getting fairly close to it, she then made a traverse NE, taking a shortcut to a saddle she was going to have to descend to, anyway. Beyond that saddle was the next big climb to HP990M.

A quick glance back at **HP840M** (Center) after leaving it. Photo looks S.

Heading for **HP860M** (R of Center). Photo looks N.

Heading for the **saddle** (R) leading to **HP990M** (R), the next objective. Photo looks NE.

After losing 45 meters of elevation while gradually angling down a steep scree slope to the broad, rounded saddle E of HP860M, Lupe crossed the saddle and started up again. No obstacles at all, other than the steepness of the slope. The low tundra was gorgeous! Lupe soon came to a large patch of alpine bearberries that was turning red. Reaching the top of the rise above it, a short flat stretch led to a much steeper climb ahead.

Among the alpine bearberries. Photo looks ENE.

On the **level stretch**. Photo looks E.

This next climb ultimately led to a second level stretch. Beyond it was the final steep climb to the top of HP990M. Staying toward the S, in an attempt to avoid the steepest terrain, Lupe still had some distance to go when it began to rain hard enough to make SPHP to stop and put on the red rain jacket.

Dang! We’ll try to wait it out here, Loop, but maybe this is it?

And we were doing so well, too, SPHP!

I know, but I don’t dare go any farther if the weather’s turning against us, Loopster. Remember our prior trips to the Richardson Mountains?

Monsoons and blizzards, SPHP! Even in August.

Sitting huddled together in the rain, a deep valley was directly S. Across it, Peak 950M stood out as a sharp high point along the opposite ridge. It didn’t look all that much higher than where Lupe was now.

**Peak 950M** (Center) across the **deep valley**. Photo looks SSE.

10 minutes. That’s all the longer the issue was in doubt. Happily, the rain quit. Just a shower! Lupe went on. A very steep climb N soon got easier. Turning NE, HP990M was directly ahead.

8-17-23, 1:51 PM, HP990M – Her front paws on a damp, dark stone, the American Dingo stood near the sharp edge of a grassy summit. Beyond her, HP1070M, the next major objective along a long ridge was in view. In the distance, a higher ridge was partially hidden among the clouds.

**On HP990M**. **HP1070M** (R). Photo looks E.

Always something, Loopster.

What’s wrong, SPHP?

Mount Hare. See that distant ridge? That’s got to be it, Looper. Summit is in the clouds.

It quit raining. Maybe the sky will clear by the time we get there, SPHP?

Oh, I hope so! I really do, Loop.

No thought of turning back at all. As long as it didn’t start raining again or threaten to get completely fogged in, the Carolina Dog was going for it. Lupe wasn’t going to get a jillion chances at a peak 3,000 miles from home, or whatever it was, and the weather right now was easily the best it had ever been on the rare occasions when she’d been in this area.

One problem. While the enormous ridge ahead was clearly super easy terrain, the E side of HP990M was way steeper than the topo map would have one believe. Not all of it. The worst part was a bare, gritty scree slope maybe 40 feet in height. Descending to that lip, SPHP pondered the best route. Meanwhile, Lupe was already at the bottom looking back up.

C’mon, SPHP! Nothing to it!

Maybe with 4 on the floor, Sweet Puppy, but I’d rather not take a tumble.

Coming up this slope with poles wouldn’t even be an issue. Descending was different. Virtually nothing to cling to, and the poles weren’t long enough to help. SPHP finally chose a spot, sat down, and slid slowly, gripping whatever little bits of bedrock protruded at all.

Good job, SPHP! Classic little girl technique!

Hey, it worked, and who will ever know, unless a certain Dingo blabs it all over the internet? Onward! Puppy, ho!

Once safely down to the giant, rounded ridge, the views were incredible, and the mood was one of elation. Progress couldn’t have been easier or faster as Lupe headed for HP1070M.

On the gorgeous, super easy ridge walk to **HP1070M** (R).

Living large in the remote **Richardson Mountains**. **Peak 1110M** (R). Photo looks NNE.

Objective **HP1070M** (R). Photo looks ESE.

A glance back. **Peak 950M** (L), **gravel yard** (R of Center), **HP840M** (R). Photo looks SE.

Reaching the short section of ridgeline N of HP1070M brought a much more sobering view of what was ahead. No insurmountable obstacles. Far from it! No real obstacles at all, but the cloud ceiling was dropping. Significantly less of Mount Hare was in sight.

**Mount Hare** (Center), or what little can be seen of it, from the **ridge N of HP1070M**. Photo looks E.

Dingo feathers! It’s going the wrong way on us, Loopster.

Nothing to be done about it. If the ceiling kept dropping, Mount Hare was still far enough so that the only sensible thing would be to turn back. For now, though, perseverance remained the order of the day. Lupe turned S, heading for HP1070M.

Approaching **HP1070M** (Center). Photo looks SSE.

8-17-23, 2:48 PM, HP1070M – A cairn was up here. Kind of unexpected. Not much change in the overall situation. At least, it wasn’t any worse.

Can we take a break, SPHP?

I suppose, Loop. Guess there’s no real rush in heading up into the fog.

After sharing beef jerky and water with Lupe, SPHP munched on trail mix and honey-roasted peanuts. A breeze was out of the W, and looking back that way, the sky was lighter. Far off, a few spots of sunlit terrain remained visible among the lowlands. Perhaps a reason for hope?

Looking N, the summit of Peak 1110M not too far to the NNE remained in view, but some other peaks of similar height farther N were scraping the clouds.

**Peak 1110M** (far R) from **HP1070M**. Photo looks N.

I think it’s getting better over by Mount Hare, SPHP. I can see a little more of the ridge going to it than I could a few minutes ago.

Huh. I believe you’re right, Loopster. Let’s keep going!

From HP1070, a gradual loss of 80 meters of elevation led to a saddle along the ridge leading to Mount Hare. The American Dingo had only begun this descent when the improvement in the cloud ceiling started becoming more noticeable. Well before she got down to the saddle, the situation improved dramatically.

Heading down to the **saddle** (Center) along the **ridge to Mount Hare** (L). Photo looks E.

Luck of the Dingo! Suddenly appears we’ve got a decent chance of arriving at the top of Mount Hare when it’s cloud-free, Loop.

Onward, SPHP!

**Mount Hare** (Center) nearly cloud-free! Photo looks E.

HP1070M had only been about halfway to Mount Hare, but the romp down to the saddle was fast and super easy. Even SPHP was making great progress. Once down at the saddle, a long uphill march on a much narrower ridge was ahead. Nothing at all scary about it. No cliffs, big rock formations, or anything like that, and the ridge was always wide enough to keep trudging higher without having to give even a moment’s thought about the terrain.

Two high points were visible ahead, one right at the upper end of the ridge Lupe was climbing, the other one not too far from it, more to the S or SE. For a long way, the high point at the end of the ridge appeared to be the true summit. However, according to the topo map, that was only HP1210M. The high point toward the R was actually the true summit.

As the American Dingo headed up the ridge, progress was only limited by SPHP’s heart, leg, and lung capacity, and resulting frequent pauses to gasp for air. During these breathers, the views were most encouraging, especially toward the N where patches of sunshine were now moving across the mountains.

Starting up from the **saddle**. **HP1210M** (R of Center), **true summit** (R). Photo looks ENE.

A look at **Mount Hare’s SW ridge**. **HP1190M** (L). Photo looks SSE.

Making excellent progress! **HP1210M** (Center), **true summit** (far R). Photo looks ESE.

**Sunshine** to the N. **Peak 1100M** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

Getting there! **HP1210M** (far L), **true summit** (far R). Photo looks SSE.

As Lupe reached HP1210M, the news on the cloud front was excellent. Mount Hare’s nearby summit was now completely cloud-free, the ceiling 200 feet above it. However, while the air had previously been calm or limited to a light breeze before, at this elevation, the W wind was much more powerful. The American Dingo arrived at a small cairn of dark rock in a chilly 30 mph gale.

In the wind at **HP1210M**. Photo looks S.

Paws on the **HP1210M cairn**. Photo looks E.

The views of the Richardson Mountains were amazing! It hardly seemed real or possible that Lupe was actually here. Yet only 0.33 km SSE along a gentle tundra-covered ridge, a long dreamed of success beckoned.

**Mount Hare** (Center) from **HP1210M**. Photo looks SSE.

Shall we, Loopster?

We shall, SPHP.

Then onward! Puppy, ho!

Despite the wild west wind, a brief, ecstatic journey of joy ensued.

**Mount Hare true summit**. Photo looks S.

8-17-24, 4:09 PM, Mount Hare (4,052 ft.) – At a small collection of loose gray rocks that may have once been a cairn, Lupe stood bracing herself against a gale from out of the W on the high point of a gently rounded, tundra-covered hill that was slightly elongated N/S. Not far above her, big clouds with dark gray bottoms raced E across the sky. An actual small cairn at equal elevation was another 30 feet S.

SPHP shook Lupe’s outstretched paw.

Oh, my gosh! It’s a dream come true, Loop! Mount Hare! We’re here! Can you you believe it? Congratulations, Sweet Puppy!

This brutal wind does tend to make it seem pretty real, SPHP. Only one thing lacking. If only a chocolate coconut bar would somehow magically materialize, that would be proof positive that this isn’t just a dream!

**HP1210M** (R of Center) from **Mount Hare’s summit**. Photo looks NNE.

I’ll take care of that right now. C’mon, Looper. Let’s get out of this wind. It’s cold!

Retreating 10 feet down the slope immediately E of the summit, SPHP sat down in a slight depression. Still mighty breezy, but better than being exposed to the wind’s full force. After sharing the reality confirming chocolate coconut bar, Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap, and SPHP threw a jacket over her.

Mount Hare was clearly the highest peak in this part of the Richardson Mountains. Facing E, away from the wind, sunlight frequently played across a region of lower highlands devoid of any sharp summits. Many peaks were visible to the S where the sky was darker and even cloudier, but none higher than Mount Hare were that way.

Facing the **sun-dappled highlands**. Photo looks ENE.

The grandest views were to the N where countless peaks stretched away along the spine of the Richardson Mountains, connected by a maze of ridges separated by deep valleys. When in shadow, exposed rocks made the mountains look black. In sunlight, they were silver.

Two mountains higher than Mount Hare were on the far horizon, one due N, and the other NNE.

Wonder if either one of them is Mount Sittichinli, SPHP?

I was speculating about that, too, Loop. Maybe, but I rather doubt we can see Mount Sittichinli (5,165 ft.) from here. It’s a long way off. I really don’t know what peaks they are. North Wright Pass Mountain might make more sense. It’s closer.

For a while, the sky tended to clear. Patches of blue sailed by, sunlight brightening the land below. SPHP shared water and beef jerky with the Carolina Dog, then munched on honey nut peanuts and trail mix. The relentless wind discouraged any movement from this at least somewhat protected spot. At one point, nearly half of the sky turned blue!

More **highlands**, **lesser peaks**, and finally some **blue sky**. Photo looks SE.

After sitting there enjoying the splendid remote panoramas for half an hour, the inevitable moment arrived.

Loopster, we’ve got to move!

Picture time, SPHP?

It better be. My R leg is numb. You’ve got to get off my lap!

Unfortunately, the W wind hadn’t abated. Nevertheless, Lupe returned to the summit to survey the views in that direction, which hadn’t been in sight during the rest break. Beyond the Richardson Mountains, a vast territory of long ridges and lowlands stretched away to an indefinite horizon. Toward the SW, part of the Dempster Highway was in sight.

Back on the **windy summit**. Photo looks W.

**Mount Hare’s S Ridge** (foreground). Photo looks SSE.

By the **little cairn** at **Mount Hare’s summit**, **HP1210M** (R). Photo looks N.

As Lupe’s traditional summit hour drew to a close, for the first time, Mount Hare basked in sunshine for more than just occasional fleeting moments. The day brightened along with the landscapes and the mood.

The **rolling highlands** in sunshine. Photo looks E.

The **long ridge Lupe had come up** (foreground). **HP1070M** (far L). Photo looks WNW.

**HP1210M** (R of Center) in sunshine from **Mount Hare’s summit**. Photo looks NNE.

What a day, SPHP! It’s like the Richardson Mountains are wishing us well, knowing that we’ll be gone tomorrow.

This Dingo Vacation has been by far your best ever in this region, Loop. You did a lot! Before this trip, the weather had always been ghastly. Was starting to think that we’d never get to see the world from any peak in the Richardson Mountains, but we got to almost every one on your list of possibilities.

All true, and Mount Hare (4,052 ft.) had been the icing on the cake. Back in the fog at Wright Pass this morning, all hope had been lost for this moment on this Dingo Vacation, yet now, only hours later, Lupe was here. What a glorious experience it had been!

While bathed in sunlight at the true summit, SPHP shook the Carolina Dog’s paw once more.

Congratulations on your perseverance and grand success, Loopster! Stay here! I want to get one last photo of you up here in the sunshine before we head down.

Going only a little way down the NNE slope toward HP1210M, SPHP turned around. It wasn’t to be. At that very moment a shadow passed over the mountain. SPHP laughed, and took the shot, anyway.

Final moments on **Mount Hare**. Photo looks SSE.

C’mon, Loopster! That’s life. Can’t have everything. Onward! Puppy, ho!

The American Dingo came running.

Why not, SPHP? We do have everything, don’t we?

Guess you’re right, Looper. Everything we need, or as close to it as anyone ever comes.

8-17-23, 5:15 PM – Eh, could have waited a few minutes to take that shot. In the short time it took to get to HP1210M again, the light was back. Oh, well! This was almost as good.

Maybe even better, SPHP!

**Mount Hare** (L) from **HP1210M**. Photo looks SSE.

Most of the return was windier than the ascent had been, but such a happy time. Retracing her earlier route winding along the big ridges, Lupe roamed at will having an absolute blast, while SPHP enjoyed the splendid isolation, admiring the untouched wilderness in all directions.

Heading down from **HP1210M**. **HP1070M** (L). Photo looks WNW.

8-17-23, 6:18 PM, HP1070M – While still at close to the same elevation of most surrounding peaks, SPHP called a halt.

Take a break, Loop. Just want to spend a few minutes appreciating where we are before we go on.

And catch your breath, SPHP.

Yeah, that too.

Such a beautiful evening it turned out to be! Innumerable peaks along the spine of the Richardson Mountains marched away to the N. Back to the E, Mount Hare was lit up against a blue and white sky.

We were there once, Looper, not so long ago.

Mount Hare was fabulous, SPHP, but are we reminiscing already? It’s only been an hour!

Yeah, but why not, Loop? If only for a moment while it’s still so fresh, real, and in view, the way we’ll always want to remember Mount Hare.

Lupe looked carefully one last time, then sitting by the cairn, she closed her eyes as if meditating, committing it all to memory, every moment of hope and despair on the way to Mount Hare, and the wind-blown joy of actually being there. (End 7:50 PM)

**Mount Hare** from **HP1070M**, Richardson Mountains, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-17-23

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track & Ascent Statistics

The Dempster Highway Travelogue

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Tuktoyaktuk – Land of the Pingos & The Arctic Ocean, Northwest Territories, Canada (8-14-23 to 8-16-23)

Part 2 of Day 24, Day 25 & Part 1 of Day 26 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-14-23, 3:00 PM – After leaving Inuvik, the Mackenzie River delta was in sight off to the W, but before long the river and Hwy 10 angled away from each other. As the RAV4 cruised along at a comfortable 35 to 40 mph, the mutual potato chip feast went on until Lupe didn’t want any more. SPHP then switched to orange juice and Allsorts licorice.

Outside, the weather was a balmy 50°F, with low clouds hanging across the sky from horizon to horizon. Passing through a region of numerous lakes, Hwy 10 stayed up on the high ground, to the extent that there was any, as much as possible. A thin boreal forest soon vanished completely. Low bushes and tundra covered the land.

Back in 2018, Lupe had seen many people picking berries in this region, but no one was out there today. Instead, the Carolina Dog saw groups of snowmobiles sitting alone on the tundra, their controls wrapped in tarps or plastic, apparently pre-positioned for winter’s eventual arrival.

The entire region from **Inuvik** to **Tuktoyaktuk** is a land of lakes and ponds.

We’re doing great, Loopster! Heard a lot of people complaining about how bad this highway was. So terribly washboardy and rough that some even turned around. Isn’t bad at all in the RAV4, though. Bumpy sections and potholes every now and then, but that’s true of most any gravel road.

How far is it to Tuktoyaktuk from Inuvik, SPHP?

Oh, I’ve seen figures anywhere from 140 to nearly 150 km, Loop. Think I saw a sign as we left Inuvik that said 148. A couple of hours at this rate, and we’ll be there.

As the journey N continued, the lakes visible in all directions tended to get larger and more numerous. Despite a fair amount of truck traffic, and lack of pullouts, SPHP parked briefly by the side of the road every now and then, so Lupe could get out to sniff the air and look around.

One of countless unnamed lakes seen from Hwy 10.

A really big lake eventually appeared off to the E.

Is that the ocean, SPHP?

Technically, probably not, Looper. The maps show a string of big lakes called the Eskimo or Husky Lakes that are all interconnected. It appears they drain NE into Liverpool Bay, which is an arm of the Beaufort Sea. Even if they aren’t part of the ocean, they can’t be much above sea level.

After a while, even the Eskimo Lakes were left behind. SPHP continued to stop briefly near lakes that had particularly interesting shapes.

When small hills began appearing in the distance, Lupe’s journey N was almost over. The American Dingo had reached the land of the pingos.

8-14-23, 5:10 PM – The only pullout along Hwy 10 appeared roughly 10 km from Tuktoyaktuk. Lupe could already see Ibyuk Pingo, the second highest pingo on earth from here. Displays included a map, and a list of services available in Tuktoyaktuk.

The map was interesting. However, overcome by weariness after many long days of Lupe adventures, what SPHP needed most of all was not a map, but a nap.

8-14-23, 7:24 PM – A couple hours of blissful unconsciousness had SPHP feeling much more alert. A mile or 2 past the only Hwy 10 pullout, Lupe was now at the “Welcome to Tuktoyaktuk – Land of the Pingos” sign for the first time in 5 years. Both Ibyuk Pingo and Split Pingo were in sight across Tareoknitok Lagoon.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (L of Center) and **Split Pingo** (far R). Photo looks W.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (Center). Photo looks W.

It’s great being back in the Land of the Pingos, SPHP!

Absolutely, Loop! It’s a world that’s seldom seen. Shall we head into Tuk?

As far N as we can go, SPHP!

Pingo Canadian Landmark was just a bit farther. After another quick look at the pingos from the boat launch, Lupe’s next stop on the way into Tuktoyaktuk was more discouraging. Near the edge of the ocean, within view of the pingos, flocks of seagulls and ravens were busy picking through the unsightly discarded refuse of the human race.

A less than scintillating **introduction to Tuktoyaktuk**.

A worldwide problem with no easy solutions.

**Ravens** and **seagulls** seeking something of value amid the rubble.

Are you humans ever going to do anything about this, SPHP? It’s a really bad introduction to Tuktoyaktuk. Will it be this way forever?

I don’t know, Loopster. The best that can be said about it is that at least we haven’t pitched it all in the ocean yet. Maybe it can still be cleaned up some fine day, but who knows when?

The dump right by the ocean on the way into Tuktoyaktuk was nothing new. It had been here in 2018, too. During the drive through town, the rest of Tuk didn’t initially look much different, either. However, there were some changes. A new visitor center was on the R before entering the village, and the old one at the N end of Beaufort Road overlooking the Arctic Ocean had been removed to make room for more campsites.

The **Arctic Ocean** from the **campground and day use area** at the **N end of Beaufort Road** in **Tuktoyaktuk**. Photo looks WNW.

**Nunaryuam Qaangani Tariuq** had been added since Lupe was here back in 2018. Photo looks WNW.

8-14-23, 8:01 PM, Tuktoyaktuk campground, N end of Beaufort Road – This was it, the end of the line! Parked near the group shelter, the RAV4 was as far N as the road went anywhere in Canada. Back in 2018, the year after Hwy 10 opened, camping or overnight parking here was free. Now it was a cool $63.00 CAN.

Let’s have a look around Loopster!

There were still benches, picnic tables, and campfire barrels overlooking the Arctic Ocean, but SPHP was surprised to see that the large amount of driftwood that had been here in 2018, carried in on the currents, winds, and waves from the Mackenzie River delta, had vanished. Other than a few big, weather-beaten logs, scarcely a stick left!

Our Lady of Lourdes was still parked nearby, forlornly looking out over the Beaufort Sea which she had once plied, long, long ago.

Of course, the Arctic Ocean was the main attraction, in truth, the entire reason Lupe had come so far. Enjoying the view ocean view from the dark rocks and concrete slabs of the seawall was a must!

So awesome just being here, Looper!

Let’s do the walk along the beach, SPHP.

8-14-23, 9:20 PM, Tuktoyaktuk – The best walk along the ocean started farther S. Could have easily walked to the N end from the campground, but instead SPHP drove down to Grandma’s Kitchen, parking the RAV4 near the S end of Lupe’s 2018 traditional stroll along the Arctic Ocean.

No Dingo bans, access restrictions, or required guided tour fees here in Tuktoyaktuk, Canada like there were in Deadhorse, Alaska! At least, not yet. Lupe took full advantage. The entire walk along the beach was 0.8 mile one way. What a fabulous, rare treat!

**Lupe** enjoying her **traditional stroll** along the **Arctic Ocean**. Photo looks N.

No rush. Lupe sniffed here and there at will as little waves rippled ashore. Meanwhile, SPHP ambled along gathering a plastic grocery sack’s worth of trash, easily filling it long before the N end of the stroll was reached where the dark rocks of the seawall began. Once there, it was time to turn around and enjoy the incredible experience all over again on the way back to Grandma’s kitchen.

On the **dark rocks of the seawall** near the N end of the stroll. Photo looks NNW.

Heading back to Grandma’s Kitchen. Photo looks SSE.

8-14-23, 10:00 PM, Tuktoyaktuk – Back at the campground, SPHP parked the RAV4 by some of the picnic tables.

Back at the **N end of Beaufort Road**. Photo looks NNW.

C’mon, Loopster! Let’s hang around here for a while. Tide’s out! We can take the short walk out onto the spit where the locals like to fish.

**Map of Tuktoyaktuk** posted near the spit.

Near the end of the spit, a girl named Lydia was very happy. She had just caught the first fish that she’d ever caught in her life. She very kindly permitted an American Dingo to inspect her prize.

**Lupe** inspects **Lydia’s fresh catch**.

Sniffs strongly of the sea, SPHP.

I’d be surprised, if it didn’t, Looper. I’m sort of jealous. Bigger than any fish I’ve ever caught.

8-15-23, 12:02 AM – Back in 2018, Lupe had spent a cold evening under her little brown blanket in the RAV4 while SPHP burned driftwood in one of the campground fire barrels. What an incredible experience that had been, huddling by the fire in the twilight while watching the wood burn and staring out at the surf rolling in from the Arctic Ocean.

Sadly, no driftwood around to burn now. Even so, the Carolina Dog hung around the campground until well past midnight. Mid-August, but still light out. Awesome!

**Midnight** at the **Arctic Ocean**. Photo looks NNW.

8-15-23, 7:19 AM, 49ºF – A whole day to spend in Tuktoyaktuk! It began with a drive out to the Pingo Canadian Landmark. With the help of the telephoto lens, SPHP got a couple close ups of Ibyuk Pingo (161 ft.) and Split Pingo from across the lagoon.

I was hoping for a sunnier day, Looper. The pingos look a bit drab with all these clouds around.

Nothing to be done about that, SPHP. Let’s head back into Tuk. Time for my now traditional Tuktoyaktuk tour!

Returning to Hwy 10, a huge bird was sitting on top of a very tall post. To SPHP’s surprise, it didn’t fly off at the American Dingo’s approach.

Loopster! Come back! That bird means business!

What kind of bird is it, SPHP?

A hawk, or maybe an eagle? I don’t know, Loop. Might even be an osprey. Some kind of a raptor, that’s for sure. One that eats fish, and …

And Dingoes, SPHP?

Like I said, come back! We don’t want to find out.

Lupe’s tour of Tuktoyaktuk began with a look at some of the buildings seen along Hwy 10 on the way into town.

Some of the **first buildings** on the way into **Tuktoyaktuk**.

Lupe had seen these same **rusty pale blue tanks** in 2018, too. Apparently the Tuk paint shortage still hadn’t been alleviated yet in 2023.

Approaching **Tuk** from the SE. **Paniksak Pingo (36 ft.)** (Center). Photo looks NW.

After driving through the center of town back to the campground at the N end of Beaufort Road, SPHP parked the RAV4. Lupe’s walking tour of Tuktoyaktuk began at the Trans Canada Trail monument marking the trail’s N terminus.

Before heading S, a quick look at the facilities at the end of the road was in order. Wandering past the restrooms and group shelter, Lupe visited the kmpost marker and an old sled, both near the start of the fishing spit where Lydia caught her big fish last night.

**End of the road** in **Tuk**. **Restrooms** (Center in dark blue) next to the **group shelter**.

An **old sled** at the start of the **spit**.

The **fishing spit** from the **kmpost**. At high tide, most of the spit is submerged.

Satisfied without going clear out to the end of the spit, since the tide was coming in, the Carolina Dog now headed S along Beaufort Road, passing the campground sites overlooking the Arctic Ocean and Our Lady of Lourdes again.

A L turn onto Centennial Road led to a couple of sod houses.

Can you image facing a long Arctic winter in that, Looper? Grim!

Not as grim as not having a sod house, SPHP. I’ll take wintering in our house in the Black Hills over it any day, though.

Continuing to wander the side streets of Tuktoyaktuk, near the end of Liusa Road, Lupe took a shortcut over a hill that may have been a small pingo. Up here, she made a new friend. A local dog with a sore L rear paw decided to join the tour.

Lupe with her new friend. Photo looks ESE.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (L) and **Split Pingo** (Center). **Arctic Ocean** (R). Photo looks SSW.

As Lupe and her new friend continued to explore the side streets of Tuk, everywhere they went, they triggered a chorus of protest from dogs that wanted to join the tour, but were tied up or otherwise confined.

It was getting to be a bit ridiculous. The American Dingo and her friend soon had all of Tuktoyaktuk howling in dismay. SPHP wasn’t entirely disappointed when this new friend finally decided it might be time to go back home, wherever that was, and Lupe reached the beach again near Grandma’s Kitchen.

**Homes** on **Ocean View Road** close to **Grandma’s Kitchen**.

Thankfully, back to the serenity of the **beach**. Photo looks WSW.

As usual, the stroll along the tranquil, silvery sea was soothing, a treat for body and soul. This time, once Lupe got to the N end of the beach, she turned E to Beaufort Road before heading N past the cemetery.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (L), **Split Pingo** (Center). Photo looks SSW.

By the **Beaufort Sea**. Photo looks NW.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (Center), **Split Pingo** (R). Photo looks S.

Passing the **cemetery**. Photo looks NW.

8-15-23, 2:40 PM, 55ºF – The campground and day use area were almost empty when Lupe got back to the RAV4, which was parked at the highest spot facing the ocean. Watching the waves roll in while sharing sardines and Ritz crackers, the mood eventually turned more festive when a tour bus arrived.

Moving to a picnic table, SPHP munched on trail mix and chatted with other tourists. Lupe spent her time searching in vain for a marmot that knew the ins and outs of the passages between the rocks of the seawall.

Up on one of the seawall’s concrete slabs.

8-15-23, 5:00 PM – SPHP woke from a pleasant hour long nap.

Campground’s filling up, SPHP.

Yeah, I see that, Loop. Guess we better move or pay for a spot before they kick us out.

Driving S out of Tuktoyaktuk to the new visitor center, SPHP came out with 2 certificates for Lupe.

**Lupe’s Certificate for traveling Highway 10, the Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk highway.**

**Lupe’s Certificate for dipping her paw in the Arctic Ocean at Tuktoyaktuk.**

8-15-23, 5:45 PM – SPHP parked the RAV4 at the empty ballfield.

Another stroll along the beach, Loop? Plenty of time for it.

How often are we in Tuktoyaktuk, SPHP? We better enjoy it to the utmost while we can.

Cutting over to the seawall rocks near the N end of the beach, the trek S to Grandma’s Kitchen began anew.

I don’t know how you do it, Loopster. Way too rocky for me to go barepaw here, but do you mind if I find a spot along these rocks where I can take my boots and socks off and stand in the Arctic Ocean for a few minutes?

Have at it, SPHP. You need to toughen those paws up.

Lupe along the seawall rocks. Taken while SPHP was standing a foot deep in the Arctic Ocean! Photo looks NNE.

I’ve been picking up a new rock for your rock collection every time we take this stroll, Looper. Let me know if you see one you like as we go along.

Good thinking, SPHP! Mind showing what you’ve got for me so far?

The pebbles SPHP selected during the 2 prior strolls along the beach.

Two local girls made a couple of passes up and down the beach on an ATV. Other than that, the beach was deserted. The air was calm. Even the ocean barely had a ripple. Soft rays of light descended on the silver sea from weaknesses in the clouds. All too soon on this magical evening, Grandma’s Kitchen was in sight, and it was time to turn back again.

**Grandma’s Kitchen** is the **blue-gray building** at Center with the **white addition**. Photo looks E.

Halfway back to the N end of the beach, it was decision time.

OK, Loop. I’ve got 5 candidates for your rock collection. We’ve only done our beach stroll 3 times, so you can pick the 3 rocks you want to keep, and we’ll leave the others.

4 of the choices. New ones on the L, old ones on the R.

Do I have to keep the first 2 that you already showed me, SPHP?

Nope. Select the 3 you like best, Loopster.

They’re all unique and different from each other, SPHP.

That’s on purpose, Looper, so it’s a real choice. Made up your mind yet?

Yes.

And?

Let’s keep them all, SPHP. It’s a nice set, an Arctic Ocean sampler!

Well, why not? The price was right, and they were all just pebbles. Not like they were going to take up a lot of space, or weigh much.

The rest of the evening was spent up at the campground. SPHP chatted with the other tourists. Lupe had 2 dogs to play with, Beans and Mason, but they were both gigantic. Instead, the Carolina Dog preferred her pink blanket in the RAV4, growling whenever Beans or Mason got too close during their 3 hour frolic and wrestling match.

8-16-23, 8:15 AM, 46ºF – Foggy and a bit breezy, as Lupe set out from the baseball diamond to head over to the beach. This would be her last stroll along the Arctic Ocean to Grandma’s Kitchen. The tide was out, and on the way back, change was in the air. The fog dissipated, and it even seemed like the clouds were starting to break up.

Blue sky, SPHP!

Wow, you’re right, Loop! Is it possible we’ll get to see the sun before we leave Tuk?

Heading back N during the **final stroll** along the **Arctic Ocean**. Photo looks NNE.

Instead of returning to the RAV4 at the ball park when her final stroll along the Arctic Ocean was done, Lupe trotted N on Beaufort Road. Sure enough, the sun was shining by the time she passed the cemetery.

Upon reaching the campground, Lupe went all the way to the end of the fishing spit. The clouds were gone! For the first time since arriving in Tuktoyaktuk, the American Dingo stood in bright sunshine. Instead of silver, the sea was blue.

After standing there a few minutes on this beautiful morning, admiring the sea and sky and village of Tuktoyaktuk, SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.

Congratulations, Loopster, on making it back to Tuk and the Arctic Ocean!

Thank you, SPHP! It’s been fun. Are we really going back S today?

We’re at the end of the road N, Loop, and it’s time.

Leaving the spit, Lupe went back to the massive concrete slabs of the sea wall for a last look at the open sea. Heading S didn’t seem right.

Back on the concrete slabs of the seawall. Photo looks SW.

The **Arctic Ocean** in blue. Photo looks NE

A morning like this is made for great deeds, SPHP! We ought to be setting out for Baffin Island to see Mount Thor!

SPHP smiled.

We think alike, Sweet Puppy! If only, but your next great deeds are S. Fear not! We’ll have a fantastic time. Promise!

Passing the campground, SPHP bid farewell to some of the other tourists met over the past couple of days, who were just beginning to stir before heading S themselves. Lupe then proceeded S on Beaufort Road to the RAV4 still waiting at the baseball diamond.

8-16-23, 10:04 AM, 51ºF – Instead of driving S, SPHP turned the RAV4 N.

One more look from the Arctic Ocean sign? What do you say, Loopster?

The Carolina Dog’s answer was a foregone conclusion.

To the **Arctic Ocean** at **Tuktoyaktuk**! What a grand adventure it had been!

Next to the Arctic Ocean sign, Lupe and the RAV4 were both pointed S. SPHP took the shot.

Great pose, Looper! Thank you. It’s time. Onward! Puppy, ho!

8-16-23, 10:15 AM – RAV4 purring smoothly, Lupe left Tuktoyaktuk. Not done here quite yet, though. 5 miles out of town, a last stop was ahead.

8-16-23, 10:27 AM – Across Tareoknitok Lagoon, illuminated by sunshine, both Ibyuk Pingo (161 ft.), second tallest in the world, and Split Pingo were seen more clearly than before.