Canada – Page 2 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Tuktoyaktuk – Land of the Pingos & The Arctic Ocean, Northwest Territories, Canada (8-14-23 to 8-16-23)

Part 2 of Day 24, Day 25 & Part 1 of Day 26 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-14-23, 3:00 PM – After leaving Inuvik, the Mackenzie River delta was in sight off to the W, but before long the river and Hwy 10 angled away from each other. As the RAV4 cruised along at a comfortable 35 to 40 mph, the mutual potato chip feast went on until Lupe didn’t want any more. SPHP then switched to orange juice and Allsorts licorice.

Outside, the weather was a balmy 50°F, with low clouds hanging across the sky from horizon to horizon. Passing through a region of numerous lakes, Hwy 10 stayed up on the high ground, to the extent that there was any, as much as possible. A thin boreal forest soon vanished completely. Low bushes and tundra covered the land.

Back in 2018, Lupe had seen many people picking berries in this region, but no one was out there today. Instead, the Carolina Dog saw groups of snowmobiles sitting alone on the tundra, their controls wrapped in tarps or plastic, apparently pre-positioned for winter’s eventual arrival.

The entire region from **Inuvik** to **Tuktoyaktuk** is a land of lakes and ponds.

We’re doing great, Loopster! Heard a lot of people complaining about how bad this highway was. So terribly washboardy and rough that some even turned around. Isn’t bad at all in the RAV4, though. Bumpy sections and potholes every now and then, but that’s true of most any gravel road.

How far is it to Tuktoyaktuk from Inuvik, SPHP?

Oh, I’ve seen figures anywhere from 140 to nearly 150 km, Loop. Think I saw a sign as we left Inuvik that said 148. A couple of hours at this rate, and we’ll be there.

As the journey N continued, the lakes visible in all directions tended to get larger and more numerous. Despite a fair amount of truck traffic, and lack of pullouts, SPHP parked briefly by the side of the road every now and then, so Lupe could get out to sniff the air and look around.

One of countless unnamed lakes seen from Hwy 10.

A really big lake eventually appeared off to the E.

Is that the ocean, SPHP?

Technically, probably not, Looper. The maps show a string of big lakes called the Eskimo or Husky Lakes that are all interconnected. It appears they drain NE into Liverpool Bay, which is an arm of the Beaufort Sea. Even if they aren’t part of the ocean, they can’t be much above sea level.

After a while, even the Eskimo Lakes were left behind. SPHP continued to stop briefly near lakes that had particularly interesting shapes.

When small hills began appearing in the distance, Lupe’s journey N was almost over. The American Dingo had reached the land of the pingos.

8-14-23, 5:10 PM – The only pullout along Hwy 10 appeared roughly 10 km from Tuktoyaktuk. Lupe could already see Ibyuk Pingo, the second highest pingo on earth from here. Displays included a map, and a list of services available in Tuktoyaktuk.

The map was interesting. However, overcome by weariness after many long days of Lupe adventures, what SPHP needed most of all was not a map, but a nap.

8-14-23, 7:24 PM – A couple hours of blissful unconsciousness had SPHP feeling much more alert. A mile or 2 past the only Hwy 10 pullout, Lupe was now at the “Welcome to Tuktoyaktuk – Land of the Pingos” sign for the first time in 5 years. Both Ibyuk Pingo and Split Pingo were in sight across Tareoknitok Lagoon.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (L of Center) and **Split Pingo** (far R). Photo looks W.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (Center). Photo looks W.

It’s great being back in the Land of the Pingos, SPHP!

Absolutely, Loop! It’s a world that’s seldom seen. Shall we head into Tuk?

As far N as we can go, SPHP!

Pingo Canadian Landmark was just a bit farther. After another quick look at the pingos from the boat launch, Lupe’s next stop on the way into Tuktoyaktuk was more discouraging. Near the edge of the ocean, within view of the pingos, flocks of seagulls and ravens were busy picking through the unsightly discarded refuse of the human race.

A less than scintillating **introduction to Tuktoyaktuk**.

A worldwide problem with no easy solutions.

**Ravens** and **seagulls** seeking something of value amid the rubble.

Are you humans ever going to do anything about this, SPHP? It’s a really bad introduction to Tuktoyaktuk. Will it be this way forever?

I don’t know, Loopster. The best that can be said about it is that at least we haven’t pitched it all in the ocean yet. Maybe it can still be cleaned up some fine day, but who knows when?

The dump right by the ocean on the way into Tuktoyaktuk was nothing new. It had been here in 2018, too. During the drive through town, the rest of Tuk didn’t initially look much different, either. However, there were some changes. A new visitor center was on the R before entering the village, and the old one at the N end of Beaufort Road overlooking the Arctic Ocean had been removed to make room for more campsites.

The **Arctic Ocean** from the **campground and day use area** at the **N end of Beaufort Road** in **Tuktoyaktuk**. Photo looks WNW.

**Nunaryuam Qaangani Tariuq** had been added since Lupe was here back in 2018. Photo looks WNW.

8-14-23, 8:01 PM, Tuktoyaktuk campground, N end of Beaufort Road – This was it, the end of the line! Parked near the group shelter, the RAV4 was as far N as the road went anywhere in Canada. Back in 2018, the year after Hwy 10 opened, camping or overnight parking here was free. Now it was a cool $63.00 CAN.

Let’s have a look around Loopster!

There were still benches, picnic tables, and campfire barrels overlooking the Arctic Ocean, but SPHP was surprised to see that the large amount of driftwood that had been here in 2018, carried in on the currents, winds, and waves from the Mackenzie River delta, had vanished. Other than a few big, weather-beaten logs, scarcely a stick left!

Our Lady of Lourdes was still parked nearby, forlornly looking out over the Beaufort Sea which she had once plied, long, long ago.

Of course, the Arctic Ocean was the main attraction, in truth, the entire reason Lupe had come so far. Enjoying the view ocean view from the dark rocks and concrete slabs of the seawall was a must!

So awesome just being here, Looper!

Let’s do the walk along the beach, SPHP.

8-14-23, 9:20 PM, Tuktoyaktuk – The best walk along the ocean started farther S. Could have easily walked to the N end from the campground, but instead SPHP drove down to Grandma’s Kitchen, parking the RAV4 near the S end of Lupe’s 2018 traditional stroll along the Arctic Ocean.

No Dingo bans, access restrictions, or required guided tour fees here in Tuktoyaktuk, Canada like there were in Deadhorse, Alaska! At least, not yet. Lupe took full advantage. The entire walk along the beach was 0.8 mile one way. What a fabulous, rare treat!

**Lupe** enjoying her **traditional stroll** along the **Arctic Ocean**. Photo looks N.

No rush. Lupe sniffed here and there at will as little waves rippled ashore. Meanwhile, SPHP ambled along gathering a plastic grocery sack’s worth of trash, easily filling it long before the N end of the stroll was reached where the dark rocks of the seawall began. Once there, it was time to turn around and enjoy the incredible experience all over again on the way back to Grandma’s kitchen.

On the **dark rocks of the seawall** near the N end of the stroll. Photo looks NNW.

Heading back to Grandma’s Kitchen. Photo looks SSE.

8-14-23, 10:00 PM, Tuktoyaktuk – Back at the campground, SPHP parked the RAV4 by some of the picnic tables.

Back at the **N end of Beaufort Road**. Photo looks NNW.

C’mon, Loopster! Let’s hang around here for a while. Tide’s out! We can take the short walk out onto the spit where the locals like to fish.

**Map of Tuktoyaktuk** posted near the spit.

Near the end of the spit, a girl named Lydia was very happy. She had just caught the first fish that she’d ever caught in her life. She very kindly permitted an American Dingo to inspect her prize.

**Lupe** inspects **Lydia’s fresh catch**.

Sniffs strongly of the sea, SPHP.

I’d be surprised, if it didn’t, Looper. I’m sort of jealous. Bigger than any fish I’ve ever caught.

8-15-23, 12:02 AM – Back in 2018, Lupe had spent a cold evening under her little brown blanket in the RAV4 while SPHP burned driftwood in one of the campground fire barrels. What an incredible experience that had been, huddling by the fire in the twilight while watching the wood burn and staring out at the surf rolling in from the Arctic Ocean.

Sadly, no driftwood around to burn now. Even so, the Carolina Dog hung around the campground until well past midnight. Mid-August, but still light out. Awesome!

**Midnight** at the **Arctic Ocean**. Photo looks NNW.

8-15-23, 7:19 AM, 49ºF – A whole day to spend in Tuktoyaktuk! It began with a drive out to the Pingo Canadian Landmark. With the help of the telephoto lens, SPHP got a couple close ups of Ibyuk Pingo (161 ft.) and Split Pingo from across the lagoon.

I was hoping for a sunnier day, Looper. The pingos look a bit drab with all these clouds around.

Nothing to be done about that, SPHP. Let’s head back into Tuk. Time for my now traditional Tuktoyaktuk tour!

Returning to Hwy 10, a huge bird was sitting on top of a very tall post. To SPHP’s surprise, it didn’t fly off at the American Dingo’s approach.

Loopster! Come back! That bird means business!

What kind of bird is it, SPHP?

A hawk, or maybe an eagle? I don’t know, Loop. Might even be an osprey. Some kind of a raptor, that’s for sure. One that eats fish, and …

And Dingoes, SPHP?

Like I said, come back! We don’t want to find out.

Lupe’s tour of Tuktoyaktuk began with a look at some of the buildings seen along Hwy 10 on the way into town.

Some of the **first buildings** on the way into **Tuktoyaktuk**.

Lupe had seen these same **rusty pale blue tanks** in 2018, too. Apparently the Tuk paint shortage still hadn’t been alleviated yet in 2023.

Approaching **Tuk** from the SE. **Paniksak Pingo (36 ft.)** (Center). Photo looks NW.

After driving through the center of town back to the campground at the N end of Beaufort Road, SPHP parked the RAV4. Lupe’s walking tour of Tuktoyaktuk began at the Trans Canada Trail monument marking the trail’s N terminus.

Before heading S, a quick look at the facilities at the end of the road was in order. Wandering past the restrooms and group shelter, Lupe visited the kmpost marker and an old sled, both near the start of the fishing spit where Lydia caught her big fish last night.

**End of the road** in **Tuk**. **Restrooms** (Center in dark blue) next to the **group shelter**.

An **old sled** at the start of the **spit**.

The **fishing spit** from the **kmpost**. At high tide, most of the spit is submerged.

Satisfied without going clear out to the end of the spit, since the tide was coming in, the Carolina Dog now headed S along Beaufort Road, passing the campground sites overlooking the Arctic Ocean and Our Lady of Lourdes again.

A L turn onto Centennial Road led to a couple of sod houses.

Can you image facing a long Arctic winter in that, Looper? Grim!

Not as grim as not having a sod house, SPHP. I’ll take wintering in our house in the Black Hills over it any day, though.

Continuing to wander the side streets of Tuktoyaktuk, near the end of Liusa Road, Lupe took a shortcut over a hill that may have been a small pingo. Up here, she made a new friend. A local dog with a sore L rear paw decided to join the tour.

Lupe with her new friend. Photo looks ESE.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (L) and **Split Pingo** (Center). **Arctic Ocean** (R). Photo looks SSW.

As Lupe and her new friend continued to explore the side streets of Tuk, everywhere they went, they triggered a chorus of protest from dogs that wanted to join the tour, but were tied up or otherwise confined.

It was getting to be a bit ridiculous. The American Dingo and her friend soon had all of Tuktoyaktuk howling in dismay. SPHP wasn’t entirely disappointed when this new friend finally decided it might be time to go back home, wherever that was, and Lupe reached the beach again near Grandma’s Kitchen.

**Homes** on **Ocean View Road** close to **Grandma’s Kitchen**.

Thankfully, back to the serenity of the **beach**. Photo looks WSW.

As usual, the stroll along the tranquil, silvery sea was soothing, a treat for body and soul. This time, once Lupe got to the N end of the beach, she turned E to Beaufort Road before heading N past the cemetery.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (L), **Split Pingo** (Center). Photo looks SSW.

By the **Beaufort Sea**. Photo looks NW.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (Center), **Split Pingo** (R). Photo looks S.

Passing the **cemetery**. Photo looks NW.

8-15-23, 2:40 PM, 55ºF – The campground and day use area were almost empty when Lupe got back to the RAV4, which was parked at the highest spot facing the ocean. Watching the waves roll in while sharing sardines and Ritz crackers, the mood eventually turned more festive when a tour bus arrived.

Moving to a picnic table, SPHP munched on trail mix and chatted with other tourists. Lupe spent her time searching in vain for a marmot that knew the ins and outs of the passages between the rocks of the seawall.

Up on one of the seawall’s concrete slabs.

8-15-23, 5:00 PM – SPHP woke from a pleasant hour long nap.

Campground’s filling up, SPHP.

Yeah, I see that, Loop. Guess we better move or pay for a spot before they kick us out.

Driving S out of Tuktoyaktuk to the new visitor center, SPHP came out with 2 certificates for Lupe.

**Lupe’s Certificate for traveling Highway 10, the Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk highway.**

**Lupe’s Certificate for dipping her paw in the Arctic Ocean at Tuktoyaktuk.**

8-15-23, 5:45 PM – SPHP parked the RAV4 at the empty ballfield.

Another stroll along the beach, Loop? Plenty of time for it.

How often are we in Tuktoyaktuk, SPHP? We better enjoy it to the utmost while we can.

Cutting over to the seawall rocks near the N end of the beach, the trek S to Grandma’s Kitchen began anew.

I don’t know how you do it, Loopster. Way too rocky for me to go barepaw here, but do you mind if I find a spot along these rocks where I can take my boots and socks off and stand in the Arctic Ocean for a few minutes?

Have at it, SPHP. You need to toughen those paws up.

Lupe along the seawall rocks. Taken while SPHP was standing a foot deep in the Arctic Ocean! Photo looks NNE.

I’ve been picking up a new rock for your rock collection every time we take this stroll, Looper. Let me know if you see one you like as we go along.

Good thinking, SPHP! Mind showing what you’ve got for me so far?

The pebbles SPHP selected during the 2 prior strolls along the beach.

Two local girls made a couple of passes up and down the beach on an ATV. Other than that, the beach was deserted. The air was calm. Even the ocean barely had a ripple. Soft rays of light descended on the silver sea from weaknesses in the clouds. All too soon on this magical evening, Grandma’s Kitchen was in sight, and it was time to turn back again.

**Grandma’s Kitchen** is the **blue-gray building** at Center with the **white addition**. Photo looks E.

Halfway back to the N end of the beach, it was decision time.

OK, Loop. I’ve got 5 candidates for your rock collection. We’ve only done our beach stroll 3 times, so you can pick the 3 rocks you want to keep, and we’ll leave the others.

4 of the choices. New ones on the L, old ones on the R.

Do I have to keep the first 2 that you already showed me, SPHP?

Nope. Select the 3 you like best, Loopster.

They’re all unique and different from each other, SPHP.

That’s on purpose, Looper, so it’s a real choice. Made up your mind yet?

Yes.

And?

Let’s keep them all, SPHP. It’s a nice set, an Arctic Ocean sampler!

Well, why not? The price was right, and they were all just pebbles. Not like they were going to take up a lot of space, or weigh much.

The rest of the evening was spent up at the campground. SPHP chatted with the other tourists. Lupe had 2 dogs to play with, Beans and Mason, but they were both gigantic. Instead, the Carolina Dog preferred her pink blanket in the RAV4, growling whenever Beans or Mason got too close during their 3 hour frolic and wrestling match.

8-16-23, 8:15 AM, 46ºF – Foggy and a bit breezy, as Lupe set out from the baseball diamond to head over to the beach. This would be her last stroll along the Arctic Ocean to Grandma’s Kitchen. The tide was out, and on the way back, change was in the air. The fog dissipated, and it even seemed like the clouds were starting to break up.

Blue sky, SPHP!

Wow, you’re right, Loop! Is it possible we’ll get to see the sun before we leave Tuk?

Heading back N during the **final stroll** along the **Arctic Ocean**. Photo looks NNE.

Instead of returning to the RAV4 at the ball park when her final stroll along the Arctic Ocean was done, Lupe trotted N on Beaufort Road. Sure enough, the sun was shining by the time she passed the cemetery.

Upon reaching the campground, Lupe went all the way to the end of the fishing spit. The clouds were gone! For the first time since arriving in Tuktoyaktuk, the American Dingo stood in bright sunshine. Instead of silver, the sea was blue.

After standing there a few minutes on this beautiful morning, admiring the sea and sky and village of Tuktoyaktuk, SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.

Congratulations, Loopster, on making it back to Tuk and the Arctic Ocean!

Thank you, SPHP! It’s been fun. Are we really going back S today?

We’re at the end of the road N, Loop, and it’s time.

Leaving the spit, Lupe went back to the massive concrete slabs of the sea wall for a last look at the open sea. Heading S didn’t seem right.

Back on the concrete slabs of the seawall. Photo looks SW.

The **Arctic Ocean** in blue. Photo looks NE

A morning like this is made for great deeds, SPHP! We ought to be setting out for Baffin Island to see Mount Thor!

SPHP smiled.

We think alike, Sweet Puppy! If only, but your next great deeds are S. Fear not! We’ll have a fantastic time. Promise!

Passing the campground, SPHP bid farewell to some of the other tourists met over the past couple of days, who were just beginning to stir before heading S themselves. Lupe then proceeded S on Beaufort Road to the RAV4 still waiting at the baseball diamond.

8-16-23, 10:04 AM, 51ºF – Instead of driving S, SPHP turned the RAV4 N.

One more look from the Arctic Ocean sign? What do you say, Loopster?

The Carolina Dog’s answer was a foregone conclusion.

To the **Arctic Ocean** at **Tuktoyaktuk**! What a grand adventure it had been!

Next to the Arctic Ocean sign, Lupe and the RAV4 were both pointed S. SPHP took the shot.

Great pose, Looper! Thank you. It’s time. Onward! Puppy, ho!

8-16-23, 10:15 AM – RAV4 purring smoothly, Lupe left Tuktoyaktuk. Not done here quite yet, though. 5 miles out of town, a last stop was ahead.

8-16-23, 10:27 AM – Across Tareoknitok Lagoon, illuminated by sunshine, both Ibyuk Pingo (161 ft.), second tallest in the world, and Split Pingo were seen more clearly than before.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (L), **Split Pingo** (R). Photo looks W.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (Center) beyond **Tareoknitok Lagoon**.

Baffin Island! Silly us, SPHP. We haven’t even made it across Tareoknitok Lagoon!

I know. We’re just a couple of dreamers, Loop.

Dreams are fine, SPHP. It all starts with a dream, but dreams rarely amount to much without action.

True enough, Looper. Speaking of which, our time for action has arrived. Say good-bye to the Land of the Pingos.

A final lingering look, and Lupe was back on her pink blanket in the RAV4, rolling S to whatever next great adventure was in store.

In the **Land of the Pingos**, **Tuktoyaktuk**, Northwest Territories, Canada 8-16-23

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Arctic Ocean beach GPS Track

Lupe’s Tuktoyaktuk fishing spit GPS Track

Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk Highway No. 10

Lupe’s Stay at the Arctic Ocean, Tuktoyaktuk, Northwest Territories, Canada (8-20-18 & 8-21-18)

To the Arctic Ocean on the New All-Season Road from Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk, Northwest Territories, Canada (8-19-18)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

North Wright Pass Mountain, Richardson Mountains, Yukon & Northwest Territories Border, Canada (8-11-23)

Day 20 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8:45 AM, Dempster Highway, 2.5 miles from Wright Pass in the Northwest Territories –

Are you OK?

Dead to the world, the American Dingo was still snoozing, and SPHP was barely conscious. Someone in a white pickup truck was talking. Better say something.

Yeah, we’re fine.

You’re sure? Saw your vehicle sitting empty here the last couple of days, and wondered what the deal was?

Oh, I was just out hiking in the mountains with my dog. Everything’s fine! No problems. Thanks for asking.

The man in the white truck drove off. Lupe yawned.

What’s going on, SPHP?

Someone checking on us to make sure we weren’t in trouble, Loopster. Need to sniff the air for a few minutes?

Don’t mind if I do, SPHP.

Getting out of the RAV4, as usual, the air was thick with smoke, or so it seemed. Yet there was a little dew on the RAV4, and during a stroll with virtually no visibility at all to the top of a nearby rise, SPHP felt a barely detectable mist.

Loop, are we in smoke or fog? How does it sniff?

The ground is damp, SPHP. Doesn’t smell much like smoke, either.

Huh. After all these weeks of smoke-filled air, was the Arctic apocalypse finally ending? That would be big news. Returning to the RAV4, Lupe resumed her beauty rest, while SPHP worked on the trip journal.

1:30 PM, Dempster Highway, same spot – All morning long, the fog had gradually lifted. As SPHP heated up a can of chili for lunch, the air really began to clear, revealing a gorgeous blue sky with a few clouds and only a hint of smoke. Unspoiled Arctic wilderness stretched toward distant ridges and mountains.

**Northwest Territories** from a pullout along the Dempster Highway **2.5 miles NE of Wright Pass**. Photo looks S.

Wow! Clearest day in ages, Looper! How are you feeling?

Like we ought to do something after lunch, SPHP. No sense in letting a day like this slip away!

I know, but it’s already too late to set out for Peak 1402M, Loop.

Peak 1402M! We were just there a couple of days ago, SPHP. Went right by it again only yesterday.

Oh, not that Peak 1402M, Loopster. I’m talking about another one farther NE that’s on your list of possibilities.

What about that mountain right across the highway, SPHP? The one N of Wright Pass.

Don’t even have it on your list of possibilities, Loopster, but it sure looks doable. Let’s have lunch, then I’ll get the pack ready. We’ll see what the situation is then.

3:15 PM, same spot – At the very same pullout from which the Carolina Dog had departed on her epic backpacking trip to Mount Sittichinli and back only 2 days ago, Lupe stood grinning with a lovely clear view of North Wright Pass Mountain (4,500 ft.) beyond her.

**North Wright Pass Mountain** (Center). Photo looks NW.

I say it’s a go, SPHP. What do you think? Say, yes! I want to try it!

Time’s flying, Looper. I’ve been puttering around here long enough. We better get cracking! Hop into the RAV4. We’ll drive up to Wright Pass and start from there.

3:31 PM, 55ºF, Wright Pass, Yukon/Northwest Territories border – Lupe leapt out of the RAV4. The air was still smoky W of the pass, especially toward the NW, but the pass itself and everything E was clear. Directly S, the American Dingo had a great view of Peak 3850, which she had climbed on a smoky evening only 3 days ago.

**Peak 3850** (L of Center) from **Wright Pass**. Photo looks S.

Zoomed in on **Peak 3850**. Photo looks S.

Woo-hoo! Too bad it wasn’t this clear when we climbed Peak 3850, SPHP.

Or better yet, at Mount Sittichinli yesterday morning, Looper. The smoke off to the W is a bit worrisome, but we’re still all in on North Wright Pass Mountain, aren’t we?

Of course! Grab your pack, SPHP, and let’s go!

After a quick look at North Wright Pass Mountain from over by the now displayless Northwest Territories display, and totally exotic road signs mentioning Inuvik, Tuktoyaktuk, and the Arctic Ocean, Lupe headed SW along the Dempster Highway to the Yukon sign near a side road.

**North Wright Pass Mountain** (Center) from the **Northwest Territories display** (R). Photo looks N.

And from the **awesome road signs**. Photo looks N.

The side road led to a microwave tower at the S end of the mountain.

Can we take the road, SPHP?

No sense in making this any harder than it has to be, Loopster. Onward! Puppy, ho!

On the way to the **microwave tower** (Center). **North Wright Pass Mountain** (R). Photo looks N.

The side road was short. Within minutes, Lupe was already closing in on the tower.

Approaching the **microwave tower**. Photo looks NE.

From back at the highway, the SE end of the mountain had appeared to offer the best initial approach.

We need to be on the other side of the tower, Loop. Just go around it.

Once E of the tower, the territory ahead sloped gradually down to the E. Angling NE closer to the base of the mountain, Lupe maintained, or even gained some elevation. In scarcely any time at all, the view of Peak 3850 on the opposite side of Wright Pass was already pretty impressive.

Skirting the **S end of the mountain**. Photo looks NE.

**Peak 3850** (L) beyond **Wright Pass**. Photo looks S.

SPHP had seen a gap at the lower SE end of North Wright Pass Mountain that looked like it granted access to a valley leading to terrain higher up that wasn’t as rocky as the rest of the mountain. However, that gap was proving to be farther E than SPHP thought.

Even the modest amount of elevation the Carolina Dog had gained so far was putting her into more and more talus. Soon she was amid so much rock that simply scrambling directly N up the steep talus slope seemed the best solution.

As often happens, this initial scramble was bigger than it first looked. Nevertheless, Lupe was full of enthusiasm as she scrambled up. When she managed to reach the top of the steepest part, the valley SPHP had originally hoped to lead her to was now an obstacle. A significant drop would now be involved to get past it over to the wide bench of tundra farther N that the valley connected with.

Moderately steep slopes farther W comprised mostly of talus, but with some tundra mixed in, were the only other option.

**Above the steepest initial scramble** with plenty of relatively steep talus still ahead. Photo looks N.

Guess we’ve got to keep climbing, Loop. Let me catch my breath, first.

Great views already, SPHP! What’s the name of that big mountain off to the NE? Looks like another fun one we can climb someday.

Yeah, that’s a spiffy peak, alright, Looper. Believe that’s Peak 4437.

Another glance back at **Peak 3850** (R). Photo looks S.

**Peak 4437** (Center) beyond the **Dempster Highway** (below). Photo looks NE.

Since SPHP’s navigation error had already blown what had appeared to be the easiest route, climbing NW along the ridge Lupe was already on seemed to be the next best option.

About to head up the **next slope** (Center). Photo looks NW.

There was an awful lot of rock, but patches and lanes of tundra helped. In some places, quite a bit of tundra was present, making progress easy. Other stretches were pure rock hop. Although not as steep as the initial scramble, Lupe was still gaining elevation at a good clip. Yet, despite gaining hundreds of feet of elevation, the American Dingo kept coming to false summits.

In a **flatter region with more tundra**, but with **another rocky climb ahead**. **Summit** (R). Photo looks NNW.

Making progress, but with a long way to go. **Summit region** (R). Photo looks NNW.

This first long climb finally ended when Lupe reached the rocky E edge of a vast, almost level plain of tundra. The huge tundra bench that she could have been following had SPHP not messed up the route was now visible below her to the NNE. However, the mistake no longer seemed like a big deal. Lupe could easily follow the even larger bench she was already on toward an enormous dark mound of talus that was ahead.

Facing the **next enormous mound of talus** (L & Center). Photo looks NW.

**Summit region** (L). The **tundra bench** Lupe could have been on (R). Photo looks N.

As Lupe got closer to this next mound of talus, it looked like the easiest way up would be toward the W. Attempting to head straight across the vast tundra plain quickly revealed that much of it was surprisingly wet. Not a problem for the Carolina Dog, but SPHP didn’t want to get wet feet.

Heading N along the edge of the rocks where the tundra was drier was a better choice. Lupe didn’t angle WNW until she got close to the base of the talus mound where she could continue using the same technique.

On the rocks along the E edge of the tundra. Photo looks NW.

Once Lupe got far enough W, she turned N again, starting up the mound. Still lots of rock, but some tundra, too, and this route wasn’t nearly as steep as a frontal assault would have been.

Pausing partway up for one of SPHP’s breathers, the view back to the S was incredible. Much of the vast tundra plain Lupe had just skirted the E and N edges of was in sight, with Peak 3850 beyond it, which didn’t look any higher than where Lupe was now.

Even more amazing, the N/S running chain of mountains that both Peak 3850 and North Wright Pass Mountain were part of was clearly seen to be the dividing line between a smoke-filled Yukon to the W, and nearly smoke-free Northwest Territories to the E.

Starting up the **SW end of the enormous mound**. Photo looks NW.

**Peak 3850** (Center) beyond the **huge tundra plain** (Center & R). Smoke-free **Northwest Territories** (L), smoky **Yukon** (R). Photo looks S.

Approaching the top of the enormous talus mound, a long lane of tundra ended at another unavoidable stretch of talus. When the inevitable rock hop started leveling out, another vast, flat region was ahead. Beyond it, what appeared to be the last significant climb to the summit region was in sight.

Facing the rock hop at the **upper end of the long lane of tundra**. Photo looks N.

**Summit region** (R) from the **start of the next plain**. Photo looks N.

Another peek back at **Peak 3850** (Center). Photo looks S.

Exactly where the best route across this next bench might be was hard to say. Continuing N, the rock hop went on for a while before leading to another plain of tundra. Although very large, this one wasn’t quite as big as the first one had been. While there were still wet spots and damp regions, it soon became apparent that most of the tundra was drier here.

I guess we can just stick with the tundra as much as possible, Loopster.

Whatever you prefer, SPHP. Makes no difference to me.

Entering the **second tundra plain**. Photo looks N.

Crossing this second plain, Lupe accidentally scared up 6 ptarmigans. A nice waterhole provided her with a drink.

Hitting the sauce at the **best waterhole**. Photo looks WNW.

This second plain led to another steep talus rise at its N end. It wasn’t as big as the mound separating the first two benches, but still a significant climb. Above it, Lupe encountered a third large bench, most of which was rockier and even drier.

Yet another steep talus slope was in sight at the end of this third bench. It was clearly much steeper toward the E, and easier to the W, where two trails, presumably made by caribou, were visible. The trail farthest W looked the most distinct and longest, so Lupe headed for it.

On the **third bench**. **Two caribou trails** visible toward the L. Photo looks N.

Taking a break before heading up the **best caribou trail** (Center). Photo looks N.

A rocky start got the American Dingo to the caribou trail, which wasn’t really all that steep. Lupe followed this trail a long way on relatively gentle slopes, eventually reaching a continuous lane of tundra that she kept following higher.

Upon reaching a region of more tundra and less rock, the trail faded completely away. Glancing back to the S, Lupe now had a spectacular view of the 3 benches she’d already crossed far below.

**Above the caribou trail**, looking back at the **3 lower tundra benches** (far L to Center). Photo looks SW.

The slope eventually leveled out again. Across another plain, a smaller talus rise was ahead. Lupe climbed it, too, heading NNE as she entered a world of talus almost completely devoid of vegetation.

Crossing the **fourth plain**. Photo looks NNE.

The **world of talus**. Photo looks NNE.

Can’t be too much farther now, Looper. We’re entering the summit region.

It’s enormous too, SPHP! Look at how much farther it keeps going!

I know, but we’ll get there, Loop. Might be world champion rock hoppers by then, but we’ll get there.

Whatever you do, don’t twist your ankle, SPHP, or we’ll never get out of here.

The talus was of moderate size, and since most of the territory ahead was otherwise nearly flat, SPHP managed to maintain a semi-decent rock hopping pace as Lupe explored at will. Even up here, some tundra existed, with routes toward the W often offering the easiest terrain.

Already high on the mountain, SPHP kept expecting to see the top ahead as Lupe continued N climbing a series of small, steep rises separated by flat regions. At last, the American Dingo reached a talus plain that was not only almost perfectly flat, but seemed to have an end to it.

Meanwhile, back to the S, Peak 3850 appeared different from this great height, and smoke in the upper atmosphere was now visibly drifting E from the Yukon into the Northwest Territories.

The Artic apocalypse is renewing its attack, SPHP!

Yeah, looks that way, Looper. We better keep an eye on it.

Going a bit farther N, it suddenly became clear that this talus plain wasn’t entirely flat. A slightly elevated region with a little bump on it was visible at the far end.

A cairn, SPHP!

**North Wright Pass Mountain summit**. Photo looks ENE.

7:07 PM, 57ºF, North Wright Pass Mountain (4,500 ft.) – There were actually 2 cairns, the one the Carolina Dog stood proudly on now, and another one 60 feet away along the precipitous E edge. Either cairn, or any of a jillion other rocks at about the same elevation, might have been the site of the true summit, but this was good enough for Dingo work.

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.

North Wright Pass Mountain! Congratulations, Loopster! We made it, and under such fine conditions, too!

Couldn’t let a day like this go to waste, now could we, SPHP?

Although the cairn along the E edge would have had the best views, the cairn Lupe was at had one great advantage entirely lacking elsewhere – a patch of tundra right beside it where Lupe could lie down in comfort.

**Peak 4700** (L of Center) from **North Wright Pass Mountain**. Photo looks NNE.

**Peak 4437** (R of Center). Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

Impossible to miss, a bright red cloth box or pouch with a zippered top was lying upside down near the cairn. SPHP had a look at it, while Lupe relaxed on her tundra cushion.

A testament to how hot and dry this Summer of 2023 Artic apocalypse had been, despite being out in the open, the red box was completely dry. White lettering on the exterior said “Emergency First Aid”. The zipper didn’t work very well, but upon getting the pouch open, SPHP found that it actually was full of potentially useful items in a pinch.

**Sealed first aid kit**, presumably containing bandages and the like.

**Prestige emergency thermal reflective polypropylene blanket**.

Several packages of **Lemon-Lime Gatorade** were in the pouch. Just add water!

Tube of **Nunn grape-flavored effervescent electrolyte supplement tablets**.

A closer look at the **Nunn tablets label**.

All of the first aid supplies were in perfect condition. Returning them to the red pouch, SPHP zippered it shut again, then placed it in a nook at the base of the cairn for the next visitor in need. Lupe was now looking mighty comfortable, dozing in the sunshine nearby.

Basking in the sunshine. Photo looks NNE.

Sorry to disturb you, Loopster, but I happen to have chocolate coconut bar in the pack. Don’t suppose you would be interested in splitting it with me, would you?

Suddenly the American Dingo was wide awake. She’d had only a few pieces of beef jerky, passed out during short breaks on the way up the mountain.

If I must, I must! Bring it on, SPHP!

Like all chocolate coconut bars, this one met with instant annihilation.

We need to keep going, Loop. There’s something we ought to see.

Go where, SPHP?

To the N end of the summit plain, Looper, or at least as far as we need to go to get the best view.

Beyond the cairn, the rocky plain extended another 500 feet farther N. Toward the far end, Lupe began losing a little elevation before reaching a sharp edge. Beyond a region of green lowlands among hills and ridges of dark-colored rock, 2 mountains of nearly equal height stood out, blue amid a smoky haze.

**Peak 1220M** (L foreground), **Peak 1520M** (Center), **Mount Sittichinli** (R of Center), **Peak 1402M** (R). Photo looks N.

Mount Sittichinli (5,165 ft.) and Peak 1520M, SPHP!

That’s right, Loop. Thought we would never see them again, but there they are, one more time, on the horizon! I started catching glimpses of them on the way up, and knew we just had to come here. Such a fabulous view of so much of the territory we traveled through the last couple of days!

It was an epic journey, SPHP! I’ll never forget it. Look! There’s Peak 1220M. We’re way above it. And off to the R (E) there’s Peak 1402M, where we first saw Mount Sittichinli.

Yup, we can see many of the passes we went over, too, Loopster. Recognize that tan gash beyond the first range of hills?

Of course! That’s where the stream was that we followed on the way back.

**Peak 1520M** (L), **Mount Sittichinli** (R). Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

Zoomed in on **Mount Sittichinli** (L) and **Peak 1402M** (near hill on R). Photo looks N.

Having visited Mount Sittichinli only yesterday morning, and spent two whole days getting there and back again, the view from this height was enlightening, mesmerizing, sublime. For a while, Lupe and SPHP both stood staring N, scarcely able to turn away.

Yet there was more to be seen up here. Looking NE into the Northwest Territories, remote peaks beckoned from beautiful, unspoiled territories the Carolina Dog still hadn’t explored.

**Peak 4700** (R) on the horizon. Photo looks NE.

**Peak 4437** (R of Center). **Dempster Highway** (below) leading to Inuvik. Photo looks NE.

No doubt North Wright Pass Mountain would have offered spectacular views of an enormous expanse of territory off to the W, too. Not today, though. The Yukon remained a land of mystery hidden by the wildfire smoke of the Arctic apocalypse.

6:41 PM, N end of North Wright Pass Mountain (4500 ft.) – SPHP checked the iPhone.

Battery is down to 11% charge, Loop. I’m going to turn the GPS track off so we don’t run it completely out.

Why is it so low already, SPHP?

Because I didn’t get it fully charged this morning, Looper. The battery was at only 56% when we set out, and I haven’t been using our point to point system. Just left the GPS track on all this time. We can still take a few photos on the way back. Want to know something funny? We’ve actually got one bar of service up here. Need to call anyone? Here’s your chance!

I never call anybody, SPHP. You know that. The only reason you’ve got any service is because of that microwave tower back at Wright Pass.

Oh, yeah. You must be right, Loopster. Anyway, I suppose we should start heading back pretty soon.

After a long final look N back at Mount Sittichinli and all the amazing territory she’d so recently explored, the Carolina Dog was on her way.

**Peak 1520M** (L of Center) & **Mount Sittichinli** (Center) from **North Wright Pass Mountain**. Photo looks N.

On the way back to the summit cairns, Lupe stayed near the E edge, where she could enjoy the fabulous views of the Northwest Territories.

**Dempster Highway** and **Peak 4437** (L). Photo looks E.

Same spot with help from the telephoto lens. **Peak 4437** (L). Photo looks E.

Returning to the cairns. **E edge cairn** (L), **emergency first aid cairn** (R). Photo looks S.

8:19 PM – More than 70 minutes after the American Dingo first reached the cairn with the red box containing emergency first aid, Lupe stood near the E edge cairn looking down on the Dempster Highway. A region of small lakes in front of a range of low hills was beyond it.

North Wright Pass Mountain has been a huge success, Sweet Puppy! So glad we did this, but you know how it is.

Onward! Puppy, ho time, SPHP?

Precisely!

Across the countless rocks of the talus fields, and along many lanes of tundra, Lupe led the way on a fantastic, fun return. As she journeyed S, the smoke in the Yukon began moving away from the Northwest Territories border, retreating SW.

Maybe this was the Arctic apocalypse’s last gasp, SPHP?

Oh, I hope so, Loopster. Wouldn’t it be nice to have beautiful, clear skies from now on?

Once back down to the big tundra benches, Lupe began making forays out to the E edge, searching for a way down to the elusive route SPHP originally intended to take up the mountain. After several attempts, she eventually found one.

**North Wright Pass Mountain** (R) during the return. Photo looks N.

It all went well. Lupe had a marvelous time. On the road leading back to the Dempster Highway from the microwave tower, exhibiting a huge burst of energy, the Carolina Dog raced back and forth along the road multiple times, showing off how fast she could run.

Holy giant deers, Loopster! Wish I felt like that. How do you do it? Think I’m going to need a day or two off. My paws are feeling a bit sore, yet after 3 consecutive days roaming the mountains, you’re like we’re just setting out!

Life in the mountains is good for you, SPHP! You’ll see, once your paws toughen up.

SPHP’s paws weren’t ever going to be as tough as Lupe’s, but no doubt she was right about the benefits of a wonderful life in the mountains.

9:51 PM, Dempster Highway pullout at Wright Pass – Back in the nick of time! The mountaintops were in the clouds as Lupe reached the RAV4, and fog soon hid absolutely everything from view. No matter! Safe in the RAV4, Lupe and SPHP feasted on California Girl spicy sardines and Ritz crackers. The ravenous Carolina Dog loved it, and after having her fill, was soon snoozing comfortably on her pink blanket.

North Wright Pass Mountain really had been awesome, and what a thrill it had been to see Mount Sittichinli again! Yet this was supposed to have been a rest day, and as SPHP tried to join Lupe in Dingo Dreamland, SPHP’s right paw insisted that tomorrow had better be one.

**Peak 1520M** & **Mount Sittichinli** from **North Wright Pass Mountain**, Richardson Mountains, Yukon & Northwest Territories Border, Canada 8-11-23

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track

Dempster Highway Travelogue