Part 2 of Day 3 & Day 4 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
7-25-23, 4:35 PM, 52ºF, Wilcox campground, Jasper National Park – After closing the side door behind Lupe’s perch, SPHP walked around the RAV4 and hopped into the driver’s seat.
Mainly the long drive N, Loop. Need to keep making tracks, if we want to spend as much time as possible in the Yukon & Alaska. You can look at the scenery or snooze on your pink blanket while I drive.
Not that late. It’ll still be light out for a long time, SPHP. Aren’t we going to stop at some of the big Canadian Rockies waterfalls along the way like we usually do? Doesn’t take very long. Most of them are practically right along the highway.
Fully intend to, Loopster. No sense in missing out on your traditional Canadian Rockies waterfall tour. In fact, we probably won’t go too much farther today. We’ll concentrate on making tracks tomorrow once we get past Rearguard Falls.
Sounds good, SPHP, but I’ve got a request. After seeing Tangle Ridge again from up at Wilcox Pass, it reminded me of Tangle Falls. We usually don’t stop there. Can we this time? It isn’t much farther, is it?
Sure! We can stop at Tangle Falls. Think it’s only something like 9 km NW of the Icefields Centre. We’ll be there before you know it, Looper.
Careful, Loop! There’s a ton of traffic. I better leash you up.
Tangle Falls was already partly in sight right across the highway, but to get a really decent look at it, Lupe would have to cross the road. Easily done with a little patience, although room was limited along the steep shoulder on the other side.
Tangle Falls, Jasper National Park. Photo looks NE.
Sorry, Loop. Not enough room here to get you in the picture. Want to hike up to the base of the lower falls, like we’ve done before? Can easily get you in there.
Do you even have to ask, SPHP? Of course!
At the base of Tangle Falls. Photo looks ESE.The lower falls and crystal clear pool below it. Photo looks SE.
Lupe scrambled around on the rocks at the base of the lower falls amid a fine spray of cool water. Unfortunately, since Tangle Falls is actually a series of waterfalls instead of a single dramatic plunge, the middle and upper falls weren’t in view from the base of the lowest one.
However, while the American Dingo watched, something happened that she’d never seen before here.
Did you see that, SPHP? They found a way up!
Sure enough, L (NW) of the lower falls, 2 young people and a black lab had scrambled up to the next level, and were now out of sight.
Let’s try that, too! C’mon, SPHP!
Caution was required along a near vertical rock wall, but the trickiest part wasn’t all that tall. A route up with only momentary exposure did exist, and that was all there was to it. Entirely worth it, too!
The upper Tangle Falls were undisputedly the best.
Upper Tangle Falls. Photo looks E.The full effect. Photo looks NE.
Clearly this was it as far as being able to go any higher, but just getting to the base of the upper falls was awesome. Lupe hung around for a little while, enjoying the magnificence of the multiple cascading showers.
So much for making tracks today, though! Upon returning to the RAV4 at the Tangle Falls pullout, 2 young women approached SPHP asking what direction Lupe was going? When SPHP said N, that was the wrong way. They’d done the entire Wilcox Pass trail clear down to Tangle Falls, and needed a ride back to the trailhead at the Wilcox campground.
No worries! It wasn’t that far back. SPHP made room for them. Soon enough, the young ladies were giving Lupe a farewell pat.
Deja vu all over again! Once again, the Carolina Dog headed N. This time the RAV4 went right on by Tangle Falls.
7:25-23, 6:20 PM – Even though skies were rather darkly overcast, SPHP had to wait for a parking spot to open up at Sunwapta Falls. Throngs of people were on the bridge with the best overall views, and many more were right down by the fence near the lip of the mighty roaring torrent. Lupe had to wait her turn to get to see anything at either place.
Sunwapta Falls from the pawbridge over the gorge. Photo looks ENE.By the fence near the brink.The upstream view.
Sunwapta Falls is mighty impressive, SPHP, but I seem to recall a lower falls that isn’t nearly this crowded that we went to once.
That’s right, Loopster. We went and saw the lower falls during your first ever Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies. Only about an hour round trip. Shall we? It’s quite a waterfall, too, if I remember right.
The American Dingo did want to see lower Sunwapta Falls again, but didn’t get very far before it started to rain. When persevering another 15 minutes didn’t help, SPHP was done.
Setting off on the trail to lower Sunwapta Falls before the rain set in.
Sorry, Loop. Just raining harder. No telling how long it’ll last. We might as well call it before you’re completely soaked.
7-25-23, 7:50 PM, Athabasca River – Naturally, the rain ended when Lupe got back to the RAV4. Shucks! Getting to be about dinner time, anyway. Instead of another foray along the trail to lower Sunwapta Falls, SPHP had driven N to Lupe’s favorite picnic ground along the Athabasca River.
How does chicken and dumplings sound, Looper?
I’m famished, SPHP. Heat ’em up!
Eagerly awaiting chicken and dumplings by the Athabasca River. Photo looks WSW.
After dinner, Lupe looked for squirrels in the forest. Didn’t find any, but even merely searching was fun. SPHP threw a squeaker ball for her to chase until it rolled into a mud puddle. During occasional rain showers, SPHP worked on the trip journal in the RAV4 while Lupe snoozed or stared out the window.
In late July, even in southern Canada, it stayed light a long time.
Evening along the Athabasca River. Photo looks WNW.
7-26-23, 8:45 AM, 53ºF, Athabasca River – A dangerously daring squirrel had kept Lupe entertained for a couple of hours, and a last romp up and down the river bank was now about over.
A cloudy morning along the Athabasca River. Photo looks S.Back at the picnic ground. Photo looks NW.
Ready for some more Canadian Rockies waterfalls, Loopster? Say yes!
Oh, you know I love this place, SPHP, but I suppose we need to hit the road.
Yes, but not for long, Loop. Our next stop is only 6 or 7 miles N.
7-26-23, 9:00 AM – The parking lot was filling up fast when Lupe arrived at Athabasca Falls. Swarms of tourists were already milling around at the various viewpoints – another wait your turn situation.
Combining the power of the Sunwapta and Athabasca Rivers, which merge only 2 or 3 miles downstream of Sunwapta Falls, Athabasca Falls was an even mightier torrent.
Athabasca River above the falls (far R). Mount Kerkeslin (L of Center). Photo looks SE.Near the brink. Photo looks NE.Mighty Athabasca Falls. Photo looks NE.A closer look.
Over countless eons, Athabasca Falls carved narrow chutes into the solid rock below the falls. A path down one abandoned chute led to views of both the gorge currently channeling the flow, and the region below it where the Athabasca River spreads out again.
Athabasca Falls plunges into a narrow gorge. Photo looks ESE.The current course from above. Photo looks WNW.Heading down an abandoned chute.A glimpse of the gorge currently in use. Photo looks SE.The Athabasca River where it spreads out again below the falls. Photo looks NNW.
Athabasca Falls was it for Jasper National Park. Lupe would see two more big waterfalls in the Canadian Rockies today, but they were both on the Fraser River in British Columbia, and a bit of a drive now. After fueling up the RAV4 in Jasper, the American Dingo was free to snooze on her pink blanket while SPHP drove WNW through occasional drizzle on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16.
7-26-23, 10:20 AM, 54ºF – The mountains may have been hidden in the clouds, but that wasn’t going to prevent Lupe from enjoying the beauty of Overlander Falls in Mount Robson Provincial Park. Only 10 minutes on a well-worn path through the forest with a few switchbacks near the end got the Carolina Dog down to a giant, swirling, blue-green pool just below the falls.
Setting out on the Overlander Falls trail.Overlander Falls in Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia.
Overlander Falls wasn’t very tall, but the Fraser River was already an impressively powerful stream at this point.
Beautiful Overlander Falls.
7-26-23, 10:59 AM, 57ºF – Rearguard Falls Provincial Park wasn’t much farther. Rearguard Falls wasn’t even as tall as Overlander Falls, almost just a big rapids, but was definitely worth the short hike on another easy path leading down to it. The trail ended at a series of boardwalk steps and platforms with railings. There had been a few people at Overlander Falls, but Lupe had Rearguard Falls all to herself this morning.
Signage up by the highway at the start of the Rearguard Falls trail.Rearguard Falls from the upper view deck.An unobstructed view.Heading down to the lower decks.On the lower deck right next to the falls.Rearguard Falls.An even closer view.
Once Rearguard Falls was in the rearview mirror, this really did become a travel day. Stops were few and far between. The American Dingo got to spend a little time at the Phil and Jennie Gaglardi Park in McBride, and also at a favorite rest area currently undergoing renovation along the Goat River, but that was about it until mid-afternoon.
At the Phil & Jennie Gaglardi Park next to the Fraser River in McBride.By the Goat River.Beneath the Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 bridge over the Goat River.
Shortly after passing the Ancient Forest, SPHP stopped for a hitchhiker who was trudging along carrying a heavy guitar case. Lupe met Asheim, who had finished a 3 month stint planting trees for a logging company. Asheim had been walking for 5 hours, and was deeply grateful for a lift to Prince George.
7-26-23, 4:29 PM, 72ºF – Turned out that Asheim’s ultimate destination was his native, spectacularly mountainous, land of Kashmir, a bit out of the way for the Carolina Dog and SPHP to completely accommodate. After dropping Asheim off in Prince George, SPHP fueled up the RAV4, then invested in fried chicken and OJ at Save on Foods.
Lupe wasn’t keen on the OJ, but quite happy to munch away on some fried chicken as she hit the road again.
The darkly overcast sky had finally brightened on the way into Prince George, and conditions kept improving during the long drive WNW on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16. Brief stops to sniff the air and stretch at the Culculz Lake and Dry Williams Lake rest areas were it for breaks.
7-26-23, 8:44 PM – Crossing the bridge over the Bulkley River, the sun was already near the horizon. A R turn after the bridge, and SPHP parked the RAV4.
Sweet! Would have been better if we’d made it here a little sooner, but at least we’ve got 10 minutes before sunset. C’mon Loopster!
Where are we, SPHP?
Steelhead Park in Houston. Time to stop and sniff the roses, or whatever they planted this year!
Arriving at Steelhead Park shortly before sunset.
Steelhead Park has been a favorite ever since Lupe’s first visit in 2016. Back then the park had been at the height of its glory. The flowers on display were no longer quite as spectacular, and Lupe was disappointed to see that the fountain still hadn’t been repaired yet. Even so, Steelhead Park was still very beautiful, and this evening’s stroll through it was a perfect way to end the day.
By the sadly still defunct Steelhead Park fountain.Steelhead Park still boasts some gorgeous flowers, though!Pansies.Lilies.Starbursts.
All too soon, the sun was down and light was fading.
Still a long way to the Yukon Territory and Alaska, but that was OK. The American Dingo had gotten far enough to be within striking distance of her next great adventure.
At Steelhead Park, Houston, British Columbia, Canada (7-26-23)
Days 44 to 48 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
9-11-22, 7:02 AM, 31ºF – First night below freezing of this entire Dingo Vacation. The R side of SPHP’s face and neck were a swollen mass of gnat bite upon gnat bite. After taking 2 Benadryl, SPHP fired up the RAV4, then began driving slowly S on the Alaska Highway, turning up the heater when Lupe began trembling, shaking like a leaf.
You OK, Loop? Are you cold, or is it something else? Should warm up in just a few minutes.
Both, SPHP. I’m cold, and not well. Not sure what’s wrong with me.
Probably those hundreds of horrid gnat bites on your abdomen. Wish I had some Dingo anti-histamines to give you, but you’ll just have to tough it out. It’ll get better, but may take a while.
Two caribou near the road sent the Carolina Dog into a sudden frenzy, her cares temporarily forgotten. Lupe continued to tremble for a long way, though, until the RAV4 warmed up, a process that took considerably longer than it should have, because she insisted on riding with her head out an open window facing directly into the cold wind.
The drive down the Toad River valley was gorgeous, but the highway eventually abandoned the scenic river for the next valley SE. A favorite spot was just ahead. After crossing the Alaska Highway bridge over the Racing River, SPHP turned into a pullout where there were dispersed camping sites hidden among the trees near the icy blue river.
The Racing River! I remember this place, SPHP! So incredibly beautiful! Are we going to do our usual upstream romp again?
Later on, Loop. Just going to hang out here for a while until we feel better.
9-11-22, 11:28 AM – SPHP wasn’t really much better yet, but it did feel good to be on the move again. After driving back across the bridge, and parking the RAV4 at the start of another dispersed camping region, Lupe led the way to a familiar low bank overlooking the Racing River.
Alaska Highway bridge over the Racing River. Photo looks NE (downstream).
The Carolina Dog wasn’t healed up yet, either, but Lupe was enthusiastic during a 20+ minute romp upstream, sometimes roaming up on the bank sniffing her way through stands of young aspens just beginning to turn yellow, at other times roaming the sandbars and rounded, white stones of the exposed riverbed.
At the turnaround point, Lupe enjoyed a tantalizing view of Peak7203 in the distance. Highlands in front of it had always looked like a fun place to explore, but even they were a long way off, and the forest got thick only a little farther upstream.
Peak 7203 (R of Center) in the distance. Photo looks SSW.
By the time Lupe was back close to the Alaska Highway bridge again, blue sky was beginning to appear.
Turning sunny, SPHP! There’s that little mountain we were always going to climb some day to get a view of the Racing River from on high. We’re here now! Are we ever actually going to do it?
Yes, but not today. Racing Peak(4,409 ft.) is bigger than it looks. More than 2,000 feet of prominence. In any case, at the moment we’re too beat up from your Mount Peterson(7,021 ft.) adventure yesterday to take it on. That’s the plan for tomorrow, though, if the weather stays decent.
Racing Peak (L) and Peak 5212 (R) from the Racing River. Photo looks NE.
9-12-22, 7:05 AM – Frosty this morning, a hard freeze. Good! Maybe the past couple of cold nights had put a sudden, permanent end to the gnats.
You didn’t OD on anti-histamines last night, SPHP? You know, you really shouldn’t be taking the max dosage of more than one drug at a time.
True, but not taking them might have done me in even quicker. Anyway, don’t worry about it. I’m still here, and the swelling has gone down a lot. Besides, I can’t keep my ODing attempt up much longer, even if I want to. About to run out of Benadryl and everything else. How’s your abdomen faring, Loop? Any better?
Yes, thank you, SPHP. And without taking a single anti-histamine.
Oh, that’s great news, Loopster, but you aren’t allergic to the world like I am. That’s the difference. I’ve got to have them.
Whatever. Anyway, kind of cloudy today, but it doesn’t look threatening at all. Are we still going to climb Racing Peak, SPHP?
Yup. Let’s have some breakfast first, and let it warm up a bit, then we’ll be on our way.
9-12-22, 9:50 AM, 37ºF – After crossing the Alaska Highway, Lupe headed down a steep bank. An opening in a fence line let her slip through down to the stoney, exposed riverbed.
Setting out for Racing Peak from the Alaska Highway. Photo looks SE.On the exposed riverbed near the Alaska Highway bridge. Photo looks SE.
First time we’ll ever have explored downstream here, SPHP!
Yup, I know it! Should be a blast, Looper! Flat and easy start, although a bit bumpy, for a long way.
Following the Racing River downstream. Racing Peak (L), Peak 5212 (Center). Photo looks NE.
Lupe followed the Racing River only a relatively short distance before starting to angle away from it in the general direction of Racing Peak. Vegetation was springing up along abandoned channels, some of which still had a little water in them. No doubt the entire region still flooded now and then.
The floodplain was huge, but as Lupe got farther from the river, it was clear that most of it seldom saw significant flow. Scattered stands of young trees were gradually taking over.
Heading for Racing Peak (Center). Photo looks NE.S end of Racing Peak (L of Center) from an open lane. Photo looks NE.Crossing a channel that had a little flow. Racing Peak (L), Peak 5212 (R).Still on the floodplain, enjoying swift, easy progress. Photo looks NE.
Well away from the river, Lupe came to a stagnant pool the size of a small pond. A 20 foot high vertical bank marking the NW edge of the floodplain was visible beyond it. Following a broad, stoney channel NE from the pool, a trickle of water quickly became a substantial stream emerging from underground. It soon got so big that crossing it was clearly going to be an issue.
Huh. I’d hoped we could get closer to Racing Peak before having to leave the floodplain, Looper, but we better go back, if we don’t want to get wet.
Returning to the dry area near the stagnant pool, Lupe headed over to the 20 foot vertical bank. A brief search revealed a break where it was possible to scramble up.
A vast region above the bank was flat, having also once been part of the floodplain eons ago. Since the Racing River no longer flooded this area, the forest was mature and full of thick grass. Fortunately, a network of game trails ran through it all. Lupe had a fabulous time exploring, while still making good progress in the general direction of Racing Peak, which was no longer in view.
Exploring a game trail in the forest.
Lupe wandered N, trying this trail, or that, through various twists, turns, and intersections. Of course, many soon simply vanished in the forest, requiring some bushwhacking to find another path. At times, the forest got rather intense. On the other paw, every now and then, the American Dingo ran into what amounted to a super highway.
This is awesome! Hardly any vicious gnats today, either, after the frost!Searching for another path through the wilderness.On a Dingo super highway.
As Lupe got deeper into the forest, the terrain wasn’t as flat. The map showed a stream that would have to be crossed, but the Carolina Dog hadn’t come to it. After half an hour, a shallow, dry ravine appeared. N of the ravine, another trail led up a high bank to a region of tall aspens.
Heading up the next bank, which was bigger, but wasn’t so vertical.
This upper region was also fairly flat, but trails were scarcer here, which slowed progress somewhat. That didn’t bother the American Dingo in the least. Lupe was still having a grand time roaming at will.
On a faint trail along the edge of the upper flat region.Farther on, off trail again among the tall aspens.
Loopster had been wandering the woods for an hour when she came to the first big slope. Time to start climbing! As she gained elevation, the trees began to thin out. Glimpses of the S end of Racing Peak appeared ahead. A good initial climb led to a beautiful sunlit forest thick with tall grass where the terrain wasn’t as steep.
Ascending the first big slope. S end of Racing Peak (R) visible between the trees. Photo looks NE.In the sunlit, deep grass forest.
The flatter regions were much smaller now, but Lupe still came to some every now and then. Most of the time, though, she was climbing rather steep slopes. The steepest was a surprisingly treeless slope covered with bushes that she had to face fairly early on.
Still suffering the effects of the Mount Peterson adventure 2 days ago, SPHP toiled slowly higher, often pausing to gasp for air, or grab bushes for support. An unexpected use trail with switchbacks helped make this super steep slope easier to get up than it otherwise would have been.
When Lupe finally reached the top, a short break was taken on a flat, roomy, grassy area. Trees provided some shade, but this spot was open enough to permit initial views, too.
There’s what we came to see, SPHP! The Racing River from on high! Seems farther away than I thought it would be.
Pretty nice view, though, wouldn’t you say, Loop? Should get even better as we keep climbing.
What’s that big mountain beyond the river, SPHP? Does it have a name?
Not that I know of, Looper. Elevation of 1,815 meters according to the topo map. That would make it Peak 5955.
Peak 5955 (L) beyond the Racing River. Photo looks S.
Plenty of mountain yet to climb! In fact, more than it appeared from this first break spot. After a short rest, Lupe resumed her ascent.
The climb ahead from the first break spot. Photo looks NE.
Most of the time, Lupe ventured through open forest, but there were meadows, too. The rate of climb remained aggressive enough to keep SPHP grinding slowly higher, but wasn’t as steep as before. Sticking near the S edge of the mountain, intermittent views kept improving.
In a meadow, approaching another flat spot. Photo looks NE.Peak 5955 (far L), Racing River (Center), Peak 7203 (R of Center). Photo looks SE.On another grassy bench. Photo looks E.A fabulous view of the Racing River. Peak 5955 (R). Photo looks SSE.
Racing Peak wasn’t all that big, but it seemed to be taking an incredibly long time merely to get to the high point at the S end of the mountain. SPHP finally just sat down in the forest. Lupe took a seat, too.
Relaxing in the forest.
Whew! Let’s take a longer break, Loop. Keep thinking we’re going to top out at any moment, but we don’t. How much farther can it be?
You feeling OK, SPHP? You’ve really been dragging on this one. Maybe it’s all that Benadryl you’ve been taking? Makes you drowsy, doesn’t it?
Yeah, but I don’t feel sleepy now, Looper. My gnat bites are actually quite a bit better. Just tired. Surprised you’re so perky. Your gnat bites must be considerably better, too.
I’m healing up fast, SPHP.
Really glad you’re doing so well, Loopster. Give me a few more minutes, and we’ll carry on.
No big rush, SPHP. We’ll get there!
The Carolina Dog was soon leading the way again, frequently glancing back to make sure SPHP was still coming.
Keep coming, SPHP! You can do it!
Got pretty steep again, but really nothing difficult about it, just a hike up a big hill. SPHP summoned the energy from somewhere to keep at it.
3:44 PM – The main reason for climbing Racing Peak(4,409 ft.) had been to see the beautiful Racing River from on high. Mission complete! Lupe now stood near the edge of towering SE facing cliffs at the S end of the mountain, enjoying a tremendous view of the Racing River more than 1,700 feet below.
The panorama included everything she’d been seeing earlier, including the Alaska Highway bridge where she’d started out from, Peak 5955, plus McDonald Creek, which was now in sight to the E.
The grand view from the S end of Racing Peak. Peak 5955 (L of Center), Racing River (R). Photo looks SSW.Alaska Highway (L). McDonald Creek lies in the valley beyond it. Photo looks SE.
Well, we’ve seen what we came to see, SPHP! The icy blue Racing River amid all these fabulous, unspoiled mountains. Magnificent, isn’t it?
Absolutely! Thrilled we finally did this, Loopster, but our adventure isn’t over yet. As we’ve seen before from down by the river, this may be the best viewpoint, but it isn’t the true summit of Racing Peak. Not even close.
Let’s complete our ascent then, SPHP. Gotta make it official, you know!
Racing Peak’s summit was still nearly a mile NNW, and close to 500 feet higher. After bidding the long dreamed of grand panorama farewell, Lupe headed that way.
The first part of this journey involved a short stretch through the forest on the W side of a long ridge. Following a newly discovered path, Lupe gained 100 feet of elevation fairly quickly, reaching the rocky top of a long line of E facing cliffs. From here it was possible to see more of the Racing River, all the way NE to its confluence with McDonald Creek.
Getting close to the top of the ridge. Photo looks NNE.More of the Racing River. Confluence with McDonald Creek (L). Peak 5212 beyond. Photo looks ENE.Confluence of the Racing River and McDonald Creek (far L). Photo looks ENE with help from the telephoto lens.
Returning to the path, Lupe continued NNW along the ridge, gaining only a little more elevation before coming to a drop. A series of higher hills was now visible ahead. Apparently, the most distant one was the summit of Racing Peak.
Continuing NNW along the ridgeline. Photo looks NE.At the N end of the S ridge. Racing Peak summit (R). Photo looks NW.
The descent to the saddle leading to the next hill was a little steep, but not difficult. Lupe was soon climbing again on an easier slope. The top of this second high point proved to be choked with deadfall, part of the forest having previously burned, which considerably slowed progress while crossing the large, flat top.
In a pattern that would be repeated, each of the hills Lupe came to were higher than the previous ones, except for the 3rd and 4th, which were essentially the same elevation. In each case, the W slopes were sunnier and more open, while the E sides were all forested.
Approaching the top of the next hill (2nd high point). Photo looks NW.Racing River (Center) from the 2nd high point. Peak 5955 (L). Photo looks SW.
Racing Peak had 4 false summits in all, including the first ridge near the S end of the mountain. The 3 hills past the ridge all had large, flat tops. The dips after the third and fourth high points were relatively minor, their N slopes full of densely packed bushes waist high on SPHP.
View of the 3rd high point ahead (Center) after crossing the 2nd. Photo looks N.Heading up the 2nd hill (3rd high point). Photo looks N.Crossing the 3rd high point. True summit (R). Photo looks N.
The 250 foot ascent from the last saddle was the biggest and steepest of the journey NNW. SPHP clung to trees and bushes during the first part, before reaching an open, gentler slope leading to a rounded top.
5:44 PM, 61ºF, Racing Peak(4,409 ft.) – A survey benchmark was shown on the topo map, but SPHP couldn’t find it. Amid trees, bushes, and tall grass, it wasn’t even possible to positively identify an exact true summit. A fairly large area toward the N end was nearly all the same elevation. Lupe had clearly made it, though, all the way to the top of the mountain.
Happy, the Carolina Dog sat smiling in the evening sun.
At the truesummit of Racing Peak. Photo looks S.
Congratulations, Loopster! Took way longer than I thought it would, but here we are.
A dream come true, SPHP! Been on my to do list for years. It’s actually been fun, wandering the river’s floodplain, then the long, leisurely amble sniffing our way through the forest, and up the mountain. Loved it!
Me too, Loop, but there’s not much to see right here. Let me shake your paw, then why don’t we go take a nice, long break back at that last open slope with a view?
Great idea, SPHP! Getting to be chocolate coconut bar time, isn’t it? You did bring one, didn’t you?
Ah, you’re in luck, sweet Dingo! Brought 2 to celebrate the occasion.
Retreating SW after sharing in the dispatch of the chocolate coconut bars, Lupe relaxed on a grassy slope where the Racing River was in view. A gorgeous evening! Comfortably cool, no wind, only a few clouds. Surrounded by glory in far N British Columbia, Lupe watched the sun sink slowly toward the mountains until her eyes grew heavy.
The American Dingo may have dozed, as SPHP sat stroking her soft fur while admiring the scene. A short section of the Toad River was in sight to the NW, and everywhere a host of unnamed, inaccessible wilderness mountains stretched to the horizon and beyond.
Relaxing on Racing Peak. Photo looks SW.Looking back toward the summit. Photo looks NE.A glimpse of the Toad River (L of Center). Photo looks NW.End of a fabulous, late summer day. Photo looks W.
Nearly an hour flew by.
Hate to say it, but it’s about time, Looper.
Already, SPHP? Can we revisit the true summit before we go?
But of course!
Back at the true summit, SPHP made a last brief effort to find the survey benchmark, but once again concluded that it was either long gone, or that finding it would be next to impossible. In any case, exactly an hour after arriving, the Carolina Dog stood poised on Racing Peak’s SW slope ready to head down the mountain.
Back at the true summit. Photo looks S.Starting the descent. Photo looks SW.
During the steep descent to the first saddle leading back to the 4 false summits, Lupe spotted a ptarmigan among the bushes, the only wildlife she’d seen, other than a little white and gray bird that had come flitting by while she’d been relaxing.
On the way down to the false summits (Center). Peak 5955 (R of Center), Racing River (R). Photo looks SSE.The ptarmigan. Apparent lone ruler of a vast wilderness.
Once down to the first saddle, SPHP made an admittedly questionable decision. Instead of a second journey over all the false summits again, why not head down right here? The W slope didn’t look too bad, and Lupe could get down quicker this way. Besides, a loop is almost always more fun, isn’t it?
Despite deadfall complicating Lupe’s descent of the upper W slope, it proved quite manageable. The real issues began lower. Still descending steeply, the American Dingo entered a vast, unavoidable region of dense bushes chest high, sometimes head high, on SPHP.
Progress was still possible, but, wow, was it ever slow going!
Hours ticked away. Even twilight was gone, by the time Lupe managed to escape the bushes, and reach a creek she hadn’t seen before. Flowing SE, SPHP knew it must ultimately vanish underground somewhere on its way to the Racing River. Attempting to follow the creek downstream in the weak beam of the little flashlight, the valley was a dreadfully dark, steep-sided, confusing jumble of trees, branches, and deadfall.
SPHP kept hoping and expecting that this valley would broaden out into one of the flat regions Lupe had crossed this morning. Didn’t happen. The world is a very big place on paw.
Something had to be done! SPHP had created a GPS track during Lupe’s ascent of Racing Peak, but had turned the iPhone off once she got there, because the battery was just about dead. Although no maps at all of this region had been preloaded into the iPhone, at least Lupe could head for the GPS track. Turning the iPhone back on, the track’s closest point was due E.
Can’t be too far, Loop. 0.5 km? Let’s try to get to it. At least we’ll be in the right area.
Climbing out of the narrow valley, Lupe reached easier terrain with far fewer obstacles. Eventually working her way over to the ascent GPS track, she followed it SSW. The iPhone’s battery ultimately went kaput, but not until she’d reached the 20 foot high vertical bank overlooking the Racing River’s floodplain.
9-13-22, the witching hour – A nearly full moon, just beginning to wane, had crept above the mountains illuminating the stoney floodplain of the Racing River when SPHP called a halt. The night air was cold and still. Lupe could see her breath. All around loomed the dark shadows of the mountains. The Racing River was close by, its icy blue waters now black, singing softly of the far N.
Lupe’s Racing Peak adventure would soon be over. Weary, needing it to end, it was both a sad and happy thought. Alone together at this magical moment, Lupe and SPHP relished the night, rejoicing in this amazing place, and all the day had brought.
Magic never lasts, but the spell was strong here, persisting all the way back to the RAV4. (9-13-22, 1:37 AM, 31ºF)
9-13-22, 8:39 AM, Summit Lake, Stone Mountain Provincial Park – A travel and rest day, but adventure was still in the air the next morning when Lupe dropped by the campground at Summit Lake to see Mount Saint George(7,402 ft.). She’d nearly gotten to the top of it once, when sudden fog and an electrical storm had forced a retreat.
Mount Saint George (L) from Summit Lake. Photo looks SW.
As it turned out, Racing Peak was the Carolina Dog’s last adventure of this final Dingo Vacation of the Summer of 2022. Late in the afternoon coming into Fort John, the sky had been smoky ever since leaving Fort Nelson. Highway 29 up the Peace River valley back into mountainous territory was unexpectedly closed due to wildfires.
Nearly mid-September. Summer was about shot, and Lupe was already back into the smoke. Oh, well. Probably time to head home, anyway.
The long drive continued the next 2 days. Lupe saw mountains, but didn’t climb any. All outings were brief.
9-15-22, 5:53 PM, 64ºF – A light rain was falling as Lupe arrived home. Her Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations had been awesome! She’d climbed fabulous peaks from Wyoming to Alaska’s North Slope. For the first time in 3 years, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood had returned to the far N, venturing all the way to Deadhorse near Prudhoe Bay of the Arctic Ocean.
Good to be home again, but depressing to think that these precious long days of summer glory were all in the rear view mirror now.
Making matters worse, when SPHP checked email, there was a message from Uncle Joe and Aunt Andrea saying that Cousin Dusty had died early this very morning while Lupe had been crossing Montana.
On Racing Peak. Muskwa Ranges, British Columbia, Canada 9-12-22
