Liard River Hot Springs & Muncho Lake, British Columbia, Canada (9-8-22 to 9-10-22)

Days 41, 42 & 1st part of day 43 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

9-8-22, 7:05 AM, 42ºF, Eldorado trailhead, Warm Bay Road –

Yesterday’s West Sentinel Mountain and Sentinel Mountain adventure had just about done SPHP in.  Worst leg cramps ever last night.  Better now, but a rest day was clearly in order.  SPHP turned the key, firing up the RAV4, before driving slowly N back to Atlin.  On her pink blanket, Lupe gobbled down a bowl of Taste of the Wild.

A brief stop in Atlin for a last look at Birch Mountain across the lake, and the drive N continued, now on Highway No. 7.  Several miles N of the Yukon border, SPHP turned W (L) off the highway at the ridge with the scenic view of the N end of Atlin Lake and Mount Minto (6,913 ft.).

Oh, back at our favorite spot, SPHP!  Want to go for a walk?

Sure!  Think I can manage to amble along a bit here, Looper.

Mount Minto (Center) and the N end of Atlin Lake (L). Photo looks SSW.

The wind was out of the S, as Lupe trotted NW along a level dirt road near the edge of the ridge.  SPHP hobbled after her, enjoying the fresh breeze and magnificent scenery.

On the way back, we can look for squirrels in the forest, Loop!

The American Dingo approved this message, and had a riot sniffing around in the forest, where spindly ground cover sported fall colors.

In the beautiful forest, looking for squirrels.

The rest of the day shot by right here, most of it spent in the RAV4.  After a while, the sky clouded over.  Rained off and on, eventually quit, but the sky remained dreary.  Food, naps, and SPHP worked on the trip journal.  By evening, sunshine appeared far to the SW.  Lupe enjoyed another hour long romp in the forest.  Through it all, the S wind blew.

9-9-22, the wee hours, 3.5 km N of Atlin Lake – Strange and disturbing dreams.  SPHP woke to see a full moon shining through a thin layer of clouds W of Mount Minto, which wore a cap of cloud itself.  Wrapped in a blanket on this cool, breezy night, Lupe was alert and watching.

The moon crept W at about Mount Minto’s height, brightening as it got into the clear, yet not a star was in sight.  Nights were longer now, the possibilities for this Dingo Vacation starting to narrow.  Hours drifted by as the moon stole away.

9-9-22, 8:34 AM, 53ºF, 3.5 km N of Atlin Lake –  Blue skies to the W and SW, with only a thin layer of clouds above.  Mount Minto’s cap was gone.  Pleasantly warm, but whitecaps were visible on Atlin Lake even from here.  The wind was 20-25 mph out of the S, with higher gusts.

Guess we’ve got our answer on what today’s going to be like, Loopster.  Too windy to go climbing mountains.  Any interest in a final romp in the forest before we head E?

The American Dingo was all for it!  For more than half an hour, she had a great time in the woods, until she stepped on something sharp.  Only a small spot of blood, but that put an end to the romp.  Time to go.

9-9-22, 10:45 AM, 57ºF – The wind was out of SE, becoming a headwind by the time Lupe reached Teslin Lake.  Waves rolled into shore, as the Carolina Dog enjoyed a sniff along the water’s edge.

Dawson Peaks (Center) from Teslin Lake. Photo looks SE.

As the long drive E along the Alaska Highway continued into afternoon, the wind died away.

9-9-22, 4:49 PM – SPHP made only a couple of stops, one at a rest area just W of the junction with Cassiar Highway No. 37 to let Lupe stretch her legs during a brief stroll in another forest.  The second stop was for fuel and a few supplies in Watson Lake.

Lupe had left the Yukon behind, and was back in British Columbia, when SPHP finally let her out of the RAV4 again at a bluff overlooking rapids on the Liard River.

Liard River from a pullout along the Alaska Highway. Photo looks S.

I suppose you’ll be wanting to stop at the Liard River Hot Springs again, won’t you, SPHP?

But, of course!  Wouldn’t want to miss out on that!  So much fun, such a bargain, and I’ll sniff a lot better, too, after a nice long soak, Looper.

You are overdue, SPHP.

We’ll soon be there, Loop.  You’ll have to wait in the RAV4, as usual.

That’s OK, SPHP, a hot pool doesn’t sound like fun to me.  However, I’ve been hoping we’d see some wildlife along the Alaska Highway, and there hasn’t been any.  Been a rather dull drive overall.

A second rest day does us both some good, Loopster.  Enjoy it while you can!  Big adventure in store tomorrow, if this weather holds.  Meanwhile, don’t give up on the wildlife, we’ve often seen buffalo along this stretch of the Alaska Highway.

Sure enough, bison were soon providing plenty of Dingo excitement!  Lupe’s enthusiasm wasn’t dimmed in the least by the fact that they paid no attention at all to the pipsqueak making all the racket in the RAV4.

Unperturbed bison along the Alaska Highway.

9-9-22, 6:06 PMLiard River Hot Springs is an absolute must stop along the Alaska Highway, and a line of cars was waiting at the entrance.  The RAV4 was 6th in line, which seemed no big deal, but for some reason, the line wasn’t moving at all.  A man eventually came along and put up a “Campground Full” sign, at which point the line began to move.

The fee for a day pass was still an unbelievably cheap $5.00 CAN, and Dingoes were free!  SPHP was surprised to see a new feature, a serious anti-wildlife electric fence protecting the campground, but everything else seemed to be pretty much the same as the last time Lupe had been here 3 years ago.

At the Liard River Hot Springs entrance.

While Lupe waited in the RAV4, SPHP went through a gate in the electric fence, and took the long boardwalk across a warm water swamp.  The boardwalk continued beyond the swamp into the boreal forest where the change house and hot springs were hidden in a completely natural and unique outdoor setting.

Start of the boardwalk leading to the hot springs.
The warm water swamp reportedly frequented by moose and other wildlife.
Entering the boreal forest.
In the forest.
Arriving at the change house less than 10 minutes from the start.
Posted information near the change house.
Liard River Hot Springs.

The hot springs were busy, but not overly crowded.  SPHP chatted with some of the particularly friendly Canadians.  The water was only 3 or 4 feet deep with a pebble bottom, which was deep enough to swim or float a bit.  An underwater bench provided a place to sit other than the decks by the change house.

You could choose your preferred water temperature by staying either close to where the springs flowed into the pool where the water was hottest, or farther downstream where the water cooled off.  The water was coldest below a small concrete dam.  The bottom was mucky in this lower section which drained into the channel leading to the swamp.

After weeks spent climbing mountains with Lupe, soaking in the warm mineral water was wonderful!  SPHP lingered for nearly 2 hours before reluctantly returning to the RAV4.

View from the hot end of the pool.

How was it, SPHP?

Marvelous!   Look at me!   I’m a new person, clean clothes and everything!

You’ve changed your scent for the better, too, SPHP.  Almost like you’re in disguise!

9-10-22, 7:59 AM, 55ºF – Yesterday had been the warmest, sunniest day in weeks.  Hit 71ºF at one point during the drive to Liard River Hot Springs, and it was surprisingly warm again this morning.  Lupe was bright-eyed and alert as SPHP started the drive into the Muskwa Ranges.  Soon the Carolina Dog was trembling with excitement, barking furiously at bison along both sides of the highway.  A great start to any day!

The long climb into the mountains continued after entering Muncho Lake Provincial Park, but eventually leveled out.  SPHP stopped at the first pullout with a view of Muncho Lake.  Beyond the far end of the lake loomed a mountain that had been on Lupe’s list of possibilities for years.

Mount Peterson (Center) from the N end of Muncho Lake. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

Hmm.  Used to be a sign here identifying that awesome peak as Mount Peterson, Loop, but it’s gone now.

Are we going to climb Mount Peterson, SPHP?

Yup, that’s the plan, Loopster, if we can manage to pull it off.  No trails, though, so a lot depends on whether we can bushwhack our way above treeline, or not.

The Northern Rockies Lodge is the premier visitor recreation facility in the Muncho Lake region.  Naturally, the American Dingo dropped by for a look around.  The lodge’s massive log structure was impressive, and in excellent condition.  A stroll down to the lake shore to led to the lodge’s float planes, and another view of Mount Peterson (7,021 ft.).

The yellow float plane that Lupe had seen here before was gone, but the white one was still here.

The Northern Rockies Lodge at Muncho Lake is right along the Alaska Highway.
The white Liard Air float plane used in various adventure tours.
A closer look.
Mount Peterson (Center) from the Northern Rockies Lodge. Photo looks S.

Lupe waited in the RAV4 for a few minutes while SPHP checked out the lodge.  The dining room was closed, but particularly impressive with its many big windows and 3 story vaulted ceiling.

The snazzy Northern Rockies Lodge dining room.

Continuing S, the Alaska Highway ran right along the E side of Muncho Lake.  Several pullouts provided great views of the lake, and plenty of opportunities to gaze upon Mount Peterson as Lupe got closer to it.

Muncho Lake from the Alaska Highway. Photo looks N.

Near the S end of Muncho Lake, the mountains were farther E.  Lupe was excited to see a herd of caribou out enjoying the morning air on a gravelly plain.  Several caribou were tantalizingly near the highway.

Caribou E of the highway.
Caribou.

Beyond a campground at the S end of Muncho Lake, the Alaska Highway began climbing again.  7 km farther, a huge gash on the lower slopes of Mount Peterson extended right down to the road.

The highway had almost leveled out again here, and a big pullout was on the L.  SPHP parked the RAV4 there, and Lupe leapt out.

9-10-22, 9:48 AM, 54ºF, Alaska Highway pullout 7.5 km S of Muncho Lake –

Think this is the spot we should try it from, Loopster!  Clear, calm, and comfortably warm.  Couldn’t be better!  After all these years of dreaming about Mount Peterson, probably the best shot at it we’ll ever get.

Let’s do it, then, SPHP!  Remember to bring a chocolate coconut bar, though!

Better yet, Loop, I’ll bring two!

Liard River Hot Springs, British Columbia, Canada 9-9-22
Mount Peterson from Muncho Lake, British Columbia, Canada 9-10-22

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The Eldorado Trail & Beyond to West Sentinel Mountain & Sentinel Mountain, British Columbia, Canada (9-7-22)

Day 40 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

7:27 AM, Warm Bay Road S of Atlin, Eldorado trailhead – A yellow pickup truck arrived, quickly followed by a bulldozer, which immediately began mucking around in McKee Creek, inexplicably prompting an attack by the were-puppy.

Ow!  Dang it, Loopster!  Do you have to bite me?

It’s just a love bite, SPHP!

Yeah, I know, but you’ve got fangs!

You’ll live, SPHP!  Not misting any more.  Are we going?

The sky was still nearly entirely overcast, but a patch of blue was off to the NE.

Yup!  We’ll give it a shot, but first let’s have something to eat, Looper.  If this weather holds, it’s going to be a mighty long day.

8:37 AM, 47ºF, Warm Bay Road, Eldorado trailhead

Okie dokie, Loop!  Think we’re about ready.  I’m going to take a quick look at the posted trail information, then we’ll head out.

Posted Eldorado trail map and information.

What does it say, SPHP?

Not an awful lot, Loop.  Watch for yellow trail markers.  Other than that, the most important part is that the Eldorado Trail is supposed to get us above treeline.

That’s all we really need, isn’t it, SPHP?  We can take it from there.

Hope so!  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

About to set out from the Eldorado trailhead. Photo looks ESE.

Leaving the trailhead, a yellow sign pointed E along a dirt road.  Within a few minutes, Lupe reached a fork where another yellow sign pointed L.  The suggested route quickly led to another yellow marker.  This one pointed R at a path leading into the forest.

20 feet beyond the path, a white sign with black and red lettering said “Active Mining Area – Other than an inspector, only persons authorized by the manager shall enter or be permitted to enter the mine”.

At the turn into the forest. Photo looks ENE.
1 of 2 yellow trail marker designs. The other had a mountain logo and said “Atlin Alpine Society“.

Taking the single track path, Lupe entered a dense forest full of bushes and moss.  A beautiful trail, but SPHP was immediately concerned.

On the Eldorado trail.

Wow, this is an amazing forest, SPHP!

Sure is, Loop!  This trail worries me, though.  Miles to treeline, and the path doesn’t look very well-traveled even here at the start, despite what the posted information said.  Hope it doesn’t completely fade away on us.

Seemed like a distinct possibility, but nothing to be done about it, except to continue on.  Winding through the forest only a little way, the trail soon brought Lupe to the edge of the McKee Creek valley, and views of the “active mine site”.

Approaching the active mine site.
Umm, yeah, lovely.

Looks none to active to me, SPHP.  Or like much of a mine, either.

More like someone’s over-sized personal junkyard, Loop.  Owners better hope an inspector never shows up.

Maybe one already did?  Might explain why nothing is going on, SPHP.

Another distinct possibility.

Shortly after passing the lovely junkyard views, a cabin was visible back in the trees off to the R.  Beyond this establishment, the trail intersected an old road or ATV route coming up from it.  This wider route became the trail, which put an end to SPHP’s worries about it fading away.

On the ATV route.
Mushrooms in the forest.

Lupe came to occasional level sections, but most of the time the Eldorado trail climbed at a moderate pace.  None of it was terribly steep.  Yellow markers common near the start soon began appearing less frequently.  Despite how dense the forest was, only 2 trees had fallen across the trail.  Both were suspended so high that even SPHP barely had to duck to walk right under them.

Suspended deadfall ahead! One of only two on the entire trail.

The printed map SPHP had brought along showed the Eldorado trail heading generally NE to Eldorado Creek, a tributary of McKee Creek, where it would turn SE.  However, despite making decent progress, Eldorado Creek refused to appear.  The forest hid all views, making it hard to say how much farther Lupe had to go.

After gaining roughly 1,000 feet, the trail leveled out as Loopster finally reached a first opening in the forest.  No distant views, but SPHP could see over tall yellow bushes toward more forest.  The ATV route curved R here, and promptly led to a big mud puddle.

Thinking nothing of it, Lupe trotted straight into the puddle, promptly sinking into a black ooze up to her elbows.   The Carolina Dog quickly backed out.

Entering the first “clearing”. Photo looks SE.
The ATV route becomes a mucky mud hole.

Determined not to get boots and socks full of black ooze, SPHP looked for a solution.  Both sides of the ATV route were thickly hemmed in with tall bushes and young trees.  However, a crude use trail existed around the R side of the puddle where others had forced a way through.

Unfortunately, once past the mud puddle, the use trail led right back to the Eldorado trail.  Lupe soon encountered more muckiness, which went on for a considerable distance.  A shallow stream existed along much of this sloppiness until the trail finally began climbing again at a good clip.  By then, SPHP’s left boot was full of mud, despite best efforts to avoid it.

Yuck!  I’ll have you know, Loopster, that the Atlin Alpine Society has fallen considerably in my estimation.  They put up all the trail markers, and must know about this wretched stretch!

What do you expect them to do about it, SPHP?  The trail just follows this old ATV route.

They could put in a single track that goes around this wet spot.  Wouldn’t be that hard to do.

As the steady grind higher continued, the ATV trail became increasingly overgrown.  Fortunately, it was wide enough so that the trees and bushes pressing in from both sides never really came close to blocking it.

3 miles from the trailhead, the Eldorado trail leveled out.  The American Dingo was getting close to treeline now, enjoying her first views of the mountains.  Tall bushes sporting beautiful fall colors filled the openings among scattered evergreens beneath a mostly blue sky.

First view of the mountains on a gorgeous day. Photo looks SSE.
Approaching the Eldorado Creek valley. Sentinel Mountain (R of Center) in the distance. Photo looks SE.

The next 0.75 mile was super easy.  More and more of the impressive Eldorado Creek valley could be seen ahead.

Eldorado Creek valley. HP6200+ (L). Part of West Sentinel Mountain (Center). Photo looks SSE.

11:14 AM – The official Eldorado trail ended at a small clearing among the bushes 200 feet from Eldorado Creek.  A stone campfire ring and a decaying log were the only amenities.  Break time, but first the Carolina Dog followed what remained of the ATV route down to the creek.

Eldorado Creek was too wide to leap over, but only a foot deep.  150 feet downstream, a narrow log was suspended over a small waterfall.  On the opposite bank, a remnant of the ATV trail disappeared into the colorful tall bushes.  Lupe helped herself to a long drink from the lovely stream.

End of the Eldorado trail roughly 3.75 miles from the trailhead. Photo looks S.
Eldorado Creek. HP6200+ (L), HP5800+ (R of Center). Photo looks SSE.

Returning to the end of the Eldorado trail, the Carolina Dog curled up next to the stone fire ring.

Relaxing at the official end of the Eldorado trail.

Beef jerky, Loop?

Yes, please, SPHP!  So this is the official end of the Eldorado trail?

Believe so, Loopster.

Certainly a beautiful spot, SPHP!  Where to from here?

That’s what we need to decide, Looper.  Have our choice of West Sentinel Mountain (6,316 ft.), or Sentinel Mountain (6,316 ft.).  Would actually like to visit both, but that’s a long way.  Furthermore, they’re separated by a nearly 3 km long ridge that we might not be able to negotiate.  If we can’t, no way we’ll get to both.

Which of these mountains are they, SPHP?

I think that’s Sentinel Mountain at the far end of the valley, Loop.  Not sure we can see West Sentinel Mountain from here, although it’s actually closer.

And they’re both exactly the same elevation, SPHP?

According to the topo map they are, Loop.  The map looks like Sentinel Mountain might be the easiest to climb, and what we can see of it from here certainly looks doable.  West Sentinel Mountain might be another matter entirely.  We’d approach it from its mammoth NW ridge, but the upper end is skinny, and may be treacherous.

Maybe we should go for our best bet, SPHP.  Is there any reason not to hit Sentinel Mountain first, other than that West Sentinel Mountain is closer?

Yes, actually there is, Loopster.  West Sentinel Mountain is also closer to Atlin Lake.  Ought to have a tremendous view of it, plus Birch Mountain and the Llewellyn Glacier.

Oh, that would be fabulous, SPHP!  Why didn’t you say so from the start?  It’s a no brainer!  Let’s go for West Sentinel Mountain first.

Can’t guarantee we’ll make it to the summit, Loop.  You OK with that?

Can we at least get to where we’ll see Atlin Lake from on high, SPHP?

Yep.  I’m sure we can get that far, sweet puppy.

Onward then, SPHP!  Let’s do it!

Appeared others had made the same choice.  From the official end of the Eldorado trail, an unmarked single track use trail wound W through a sea of colorful bushes toward a big hill.

Setting off on the use trail. Photo looks WSW.

Near the top of this first hill, the use trail faded away, as Lupe reached a shallow, rocky gash.  Finishing the climb, she came to a flat region.  A big stretch of Atlin Lake was already in sight to the NW.  There was also a great view of the Eldorado Creek valley back to the E.

Heading up the gash where the use trail faded away.
First view of Birch Mountain (L) and Atlin Mountain (R of Center) across Atlin Lake. Photo looks WNW.
Upper Eldorado Creek valley. Photo looks E.

The most important view, of course, was of the terrain ahead.  Toward the SW, a broad, but minor, dip led to a series of higher, rockier hills.  Bushes growing on this first hill were already a lot smaller than the ones down in the valley.  Lupe was able to avoid most of them as she trotted toward the dip, which proved to be grassy.

Hills beyond the dip. HP5600+(E) (L) and HP5600+(W) (R). Photo looks SW.
In the dip. HP5800+ (L), HP5600+(E) (R of Center). Photo looks S.

Crossing the dip was quick and easy.  A tougher climb was now ahead.  Dodging low bushes as much as possible, the American Dingo started up, aiming for the highest grassy region visible on the E side of this next hill.

Heading for the grassy region at upper R. Photo looks SSE.

The slope got pretty steep.  SPHP huffed and puffed.  Atlin Lake was no longer in sight, but views across the Eldorado Creek valley were getting better and better.  Lupe could see several ponds far below.  Maybe there were beavers down there?

The enormous ridge across the valley all looked like super easy terrain, and bore a number of interesting little peaks.  Peak 6200, highest of all, was a massive hill that was clearly a mere walk up.  Would be a blast to explore that region some day!

Peak 6200 (Center) across the Eldorado Creek valley. Photo looks NE.
Getting kind of steep. Photo looks NW.
Examining the exquisite tundra during one of SPHP’s frequent breathers.

Lupe made it to the grassy area.  Going any higher meant a rocky climb toward a couple of 5600+ foot high points, but there was no reason to do that.  Shortly after getting up there, the Carolina Dog would just have to lose much of that hard won elevation gain.

Turning SE, Lupe simply maintained her elevation as she crossed the grassy region.  This quickly led to a traverse of the N slope of HP5600+(E).  The intent was to get around to the big gap between HP5800+ and HP5600+(E).  The first part wasn’t hard at all, but as Lupe got to where she could start angling S, the slope steepened and became all rock.

At the upper grassy region. Photo looks SE.
Traversing HP5600+(E)’s N slope. Peak 6200 (L), HP5800+ (R). Photo looks ESE.
Heading for the gap (R). Photo looks S.

We’re too high, SPHP!  We should have stayed lower, and headed straight for HP5800+!

Yeah, I see than now, Looper.  Live and learn!

Gradually losing elevation, as SPHP picked a way across the rocky slope, Lupe finally made it to the gap between HP5600+(E) and HP5800+.  The high point of this saddle was now SW, but the American Dingo didn’t go all the way to it.  When a grassy slope on HP5800+ appeared only a little higher, Lupe turned SE, and headed up.

In the saddle between HP5800+ (L) and HP5600+(E) (R). Photo looks SW.
Heading up HP5800+. Photo looks SE.

This was quite a steep climb at first, but once Lupe made it to the grassy part of the slope, it really wasn’t difficult at all.  The Carolina Dog had fun roaming at will, the rate of climb gradually diminishing as SPHP trudged after her.  Atlin Lake was back in view again.

Atlin Lake and Birch Mountain (R). Photo looks SW.

When Lupe got high enough to see over the top of HP5600+(E), the rate of climb diminished quite a bit.  A big rock served as an excellent Dingo platform and viewpoint.  Nearly the entire S end of Atlin Lake was in sight now, including the Llewellyn Glacier.  SPHP could pick out The Cathedral (6,965 ft.) beyond Teresa Island, too.

Birch Mountain (L) and Atlin Mountain (Center) beyond HP5600+(E) (foreground). Photo looks NW.
S end of Atlin Lake. Llewellyn Glacier (far L). The Cathedral (R) beyond the S end of Teresa Island. Photo looks SW.

With no reason to go all the way to the top of HP5800+, Lupe passed W of it.  Beyond a minor dip leading to a level, obstacle-free plain of grass, West Sentinel Mountain (6,316 ft.) was finally in view.  Several big knobs were visible along the dark, rocky spine of the upper NW ridge leading to it.

How difficult it might be to get past those knobs wasn’t clear yet.

Roaming the upper grassy slopes of HP5800+ (L). Photo looks SE.
HP6200+ (L), West Sentinel Mountain (Center & R). Photo looks SE.
West Sentinel Mountain. True summit (R), Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe had just passed another, smaller knob.  A bit down HP5800+‘s W slope, it would clearly be a superb viewpoint.

The HP5800+ premier viewpoint (Center). Photo looks WNW.

About time for another break, isn’t it, SPHP?  Let’s go over there!

A splendid idea, Loopster!

Birch Mountain (Center) and Atlin Lake. Photo looks WSW.

2:02 PM – The scenic, rocky knob was an easy scramble.  A spectacular panorama of Atlin Lake greeted Lupe, stretching all the way from the Llewellyn Glacier at the S end, clear to Mount Minto (6,913 ft.) and Mount Hitchcock (5,886 ft.) many miles away near the N end.

A lot to ponder and enjoy while sharing beef jerky!

S end of Atlin Lake. Llewellyn Glacier (far L). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.
Zoomed in on the Llewellyn Glacier.
Another glacier (Center) beyond Copper Island (R of Center). The Cathedral (R). Photo looks WSW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.
Birch Mountain (R of Center) on Teresa Island. Photo looks W.
Zoomed in on Birch Mountain (Center). Photo looks W.
Teresa Island (L), Atlin Mountain (Center). Photo looks NW.
Birch Mountain (L), Atlin Mountain (Center) beyond HP5600+(E). Photo looks NW.

A very pleasant half an hour shot by.

Just think, SPHP!  Less than a month ago we were on Birch Mountain!

Yes, Birch was a terrific adventure, Loop!  This reminds me so much of it.  If views were all we came for, we really wouldn’t have to go any farther today.

Oh, but we are going farther, SPHP!  West Sentinel Mountain awaits!  Not that far away now.  The views will be even more scintillating there!

I suppose we better get with it then, Loopster.

HP5800+ (L), HP6200+ (Center), West Sentinel Mountain (R), true summit (far R). Photo looks ESE.
West Sentinel Mountain (L). Photo looks SSE.

Break time over, Lupe scrambled down off the fabulous viewpoint, then headed SE across the grassy plain.

Leaving the fabulous viewpoint (R of Center), HP5800+ (R). Photo looks NW.

Hoping for more easy terrain S of the dark knobs along the spine of the upper NW ridge Lupe was approaching, SPHP encouraged her to head for a minor pass at the spine’s lower end.

Approaching the pass (R of Center). Photo looks SSE.

Reaching the pass, the view was disappointing.  A whole lot of rock was ahead, some of it quite large and steep.

Keep going, SPHP?  Or stay on the N side?

Hmm.  Don’t think it matters much, Loop.  Go through, I guess.  Doubt the N side is any better.

Rocky and steep. Photo looks S.
Amid talus on the S side. Photo looks SE.

Climbing steadily as she crossed a tedious stretch of talus, Lupe finally reached a broad region with a bit of grass that wasn’t as steep.  Progress was much better here.  A couple of knobs along the narrowest part of the upper NW ridge were still ahead.  Getting past these knobs was the key to the entire West Sentinel Mountain ascent.  The summit was only a short distance beyond them.

On better terrain again. West Sentinel Mountain summit (R). Photo looks SE.
Moment of truth ahead. West Sentinel Mountain summit (R). Photo looks SE.

Approaching the first knob, Lupe went right up to it.  A pass was now visible W of the summit region.  Exactly what it led to wasn’t clear yet.

At the first knob (R). West Sentinel Mountain summit and the pass near it (L). Photo looks SSE.

The American Dingo scrambled right on over the top of the first knob.  Beyond it, SPHP was surprised to see that instead of just one, two more still remained ahead.  However, it now appeared likely that Lupe had it made!  The pass after the last knob connected to a decent slope leading to the S side of the summit region.

West Sentinel Mountain (L) from the first knob. Photo looks SE.

The middle knob was too gnarly to go directly over it.  Downclimbing the steep N slope, Lupe reached suitable terrain where she could complete the rocky traverse required below both remaining knobs to reach the pass beyond them.

Continuing up from the pass next to the summit. Photo looks SE.

Sweeping up and around to the S side of the summit block from this final pass, a ridge several hundred feet long was in view.  A cairn sat 60 feet higher not far from the middle.

West Sentinel Mountain summit ridge. Cairn (R of Center). Photo looks NNE.

3:55 PM, 53ºF, West Sentinel Mountain (6,316 ft.) – An easy stroll up a rock-strewn grassy slope got Lupe to the cairn.

By the summit cairn.
Atlin Mountain (L) beyond Atlin Lake from West Sentinel Mountain’s summit. Photo looks NW.

Hah!  Congratulations, Loopster!  Really wasn’t much to this was there?  Just enough to make it interesting.

West Sentinel Mountain has been a great adventure, SPHP!  A pretty long one, though.  Did you create a GPS track with our new iPhone?  What does it say?

I did, Loopster, but the GPS track messed up for some reason, and quit recording a little while after we left the end of the Eldorado trail.  I started a second GPS track, but there’s a gap between them, since I didn’t notice the failure of the first one right away, so we don’t have complete data.

Oh, that’s too bad, SPHP!  Would have been nice to know how far we went to get here.

Hard to say even if the GPS track hadn’t messed up, Loop.  I’ve noticed that the distances shown are often overstated.  Can tell you that we’ve gained over 3,750 feet of elevation, if that helps.

That’s a big day for us, SPHP!  Worthy of a chocolate coconut bar, I’d say.

So, that’s what you’re driving at, aye, sweet-tooth puppy?  You’ll be happy to know I brought 2 of them.  I’ll even throw in the last of the beef jerky.

The views from West Sentinel Mountain were tremendous!  Naturally, Atlin Lake remained the big attraction, with the Llewellyn Glacier and others surrounded by snow-capped peaks at its S end, Birch Mountain on Teresa Island directly W, and Mount Minto visible far to the N.

S end of Atlin Lake. Llewellyn Glacier (far L). Photo looks SW.
Birch Mountain (Center) on Teresa Island. Photo looks W.

Of course, there were other fabulous scenes, too.  Much of Lupe’s route up West Sentinel Mountain’s NW ridge was in sight.  The rocky knob where she’d taken her scenic break near HP5800+ was now more than 500 feet lower, and looked very small from here.  Directly N, a pond was visible down in the giant Eldorado Creek valley.

Birch Mountain (L) and Atlin Mountain (R of Center) beyond Atlin Lake. West Sentinel Mountain’s NW ridge (R) with HP5600+ beyond it. Lupe’s earlier scenic break point is the dark blip in the grassy area (far R). Photo looks NW.
Eldorado Creek valley (Center & R). Mount Minto (L) and Mount Hitchcock (L of Center) on the horizon. HP5800+ (far L) in the foreground. Photo looks N.

Mountains in a vast region to the S and SE were all much lower than West Sentinel Mountain, but that wasn’t true on the indistinct horizon where snow was visible on a long range sporting distant glimpses of mighty summits.  Several lakes were scattered among the lowlands.

West Sentinel Mountain’s S slope. Atlin Lake and the Llewellyn Glacier (far R). Photo looks S.
Lower peaks and lakes in the inaccessible region to the SE. Photo looks SE.

There was another view, too, a tantalizing one.  Beyond a dark knob at the E end of West Sentinel Mountain’s summit ridge, Sentinel Mountain was in sight.  Much of the N side of the ridge leading to it was a line of sheer cliffs, but the S side looked doable.

Would Lupe ever get there?  Doubtful.  Sentinel Mountain was clearly a long, rocky march from here, and the American Dingo and SPHP were both about played out just getting to West Sentinel Mountain.

West Sentinel Mountain’s E high point (L) and Sentinel Mountain (R). Photo looks E.
At the E end of the summit ridge. West Sentinel Mountain’s E high point (L) and Sentinel Mountain (R). Photo looks E.

During her traditional summit hour, Lupe relaxed, alternately resting near the cairn, or roaming the summit ridge while enjoying the splendid views.  SPHP split the second and last chocolate coconut bar with her, since Sentinel Mountain wasn’t in the cards.  A light breeze eventually sprang up out of the W.

Taking it easy on West Sentinel Mountain. Photo looks NW.
By the cairn. Photo looks E.
On West Sentinel Mountain. Photo looks WNW.
Birch Mountain (L). Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.

4:49 PM, West Sentinel Mountain –  Gazing E, SPHP knew it was now or never.  Somewhat surprisingly, after an hour’s rest, now did seem the better choice.

Time’s up, Loop.  You ready?

Hate to leave such a fabulous peak, SPHP!  The views are nearly as good here as they were from Birch Mountain.

I hate to leave, too, but that’s life in the mountains.  Evening is upon us, Looper, and we’re taking the long way back, so we better get with it.

We’re actually going to Sentinel Mountain, SPHP?  The E one?

Yeah.  May as well.  Think we can manage it.  Onward!  Puppy ho, time!

Heading back down the S slope to where she’d first come up it, Lupe turned ENE, beginning the trek to Sentinel Mountain.  Progress was fairly decent at first, but became rockier than SPHP expected.  Half an hour after leaving West Sentinel Mountain’s summit, the Carolina Dog was staring down on the hidden lake W of HP6200+.

Heading for Sentinel Mountain (L). Photo looks E.
Getting rather rocky. Sentinel Mountain (R of Center). Photo looks E.
The hidden lake (R) W of HP6200+. Photo looks NW.
Peering down on the lake.

SE of HP6200+, even SPHP sped along on a short stretch of good ground.  However, Lupe was soon losing considerable elevation while crossing a gigantic boulder field that was very slow going.  As the ridge narrowed, SPHP feared she might have to lose a lot more, the sinking sun becoming a worry, too.  Time was relentlessly ticking away.

Never complaining, Lupe was a trooper, leaping endlessly from rock to rock.  The last part of the descent was the worst.  The S side of the ridge steepened, and a series of knobs along the ridgeline threatened to force either a complete retreat, or a giant detour far below them.

Each time Lupe crested a knob, SPHP feared an impassable drop beyond it.  Fortunately, the Luck of the Dingo held!  In every case, a manageable downclimb always provided a way forward.  Near the low point, SPHP’s latest GPS track read 5,900 feet.  Only 400+ feet to go, as the Carolina Dog started up Sentinel Mountain.

Gonna make it!

Approaching Sentinel Mountain. Photo looks E.
Heading up. Sentinel Mountain (Center). Photo looks NE.

Other than being just plain tired, the scramble wasn’t bad at all.  Near the end, the slope diminished, the last part of the ascent a mere stroll to a cairn visible at the top.

Nearly there! Cairn in sight. Photo looks ENE.

6:58 PM, 46ºF, Sentinel Mountain (6,316 ft.) – It had taken 2 hours to go 3 km.  The 10 mph W wind now felt quite chilly, but Lupe had made it!

On Sentinel Mountain. Photo looks S.
S end of Atlin Lake (Center) and West Sentinel Mountain (R). Photo looks SW.

Double congratulations, Loop!  Both West Sentinel Mountain and Sentinel Mountain in a single day.  Can’t be many Dingoes that have ever done that!

Thank you, SPHP, but we’ve already eaten the last chocolate coconut bar, haven’t we?

Afraid so, Loopster.  I was so tired when we first reached West Sentinel Mountain, that I didn’t think we’d ever actually do this.

Well, I’m tired now, SPHP, and this summit is all rock.  Mind letting me curl up on your lap?

Sentinel Mountain’s summit wasn’t all that big, but there was enough room to move around, with another area 10 or 15 feet lower to the NE with additional space.  Sitting near the cairn facing W, SPHP let Lupe get comfortable.  The sun was still up, but behind a bank of clouds.  Parts of Atlin Lake remained in view.  Sadly, Birch Mountain wasn’t, now hidden by West Sentinel Mountain.

S end of Atlin Lake. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.
Zoomed in on snowy peaks near the Llewellyn Glacier.

The sun reappeared, beautifully illuminating the upper Eldorado Creek valley and the vast rolling highlands near Peak 6200.  To the SE, a much lower range of hills was capped by a series of ridges of light gray rock.

Eldorado Creek valley (L), Peak 6200 (R), Atlin Lake (far L). Photo looks NNW.
Peak 6200 (L). Photo looks N.
Lower hills to the SE.

Lupe didn’t feel like moving.  Neither did SPHP.  However, Loop couldn’t linger up here too long, if she wanted to preserve enough light to at least get off Sentinel Mountain.  Half an hour was going to have to suffice.

Over all too quickly, of course!  The last few minutes were spent up and about, taking a final look around.

Atlin Lake (far L & R), West Sentinel Mountain (Center), HP6200+ (R). Photo looks W.
At Sentinel Mountain’s true summit. Photo looks ENE.
Already time to go. West Sentinel Mountain (R). Photo looks WSW.

Leaving Sentinel Mountain, Lupe headed down its N ridge.  Steep and rocky, it was a long descent, but not a particularly difficult one, before things leveled out enough for SPHP to pick up the pace.  The race was now on to get as far as possible before darkness fell upon the land.

Sentinel Mountain (Center). Lupe went down its N ridge (L). Photo looks SE.
Upper Eldorado Creek valley. Photo looks WNW.
Final glance back at Sentinel Mountain (Center). Photo looks SE.
Hurrying back to the Eldorado trail. Still a long way to go. Photo looks NW.
Last glimpse of West Sentinel Mountain’s summit (R of Center). Photo looks SSW.

Wanting to avoid any swampiness or beaver ponds near the bottom of the Eldorado Creek valley, SPHP encouraged Lupe to remain on higher, drier ground farther N.  The Carolina Dog crossed several tributaries of Eldorado Creek, but they were all small.

Although Lupe had made great progress, she was still a km away from the Eldorado trail when the flashlight had to come out.  By then she’d reached a giant thicket of tall bushes, and had about exhausted all the decent open lanes among them.

Bounding through bushes chest high on SPHP was no easy matter.  Lupe couldn’t see a thing, and in the dark, SPHP wasn’t much better off, even with the flashlight.  Every now and then a small opening or game trail permitted a spurt ahead, but most of the time, a miserable bushwhack had to be endured.

Lupe was within 0.5 km of the Eldorado trail when she suddenly reached a wider open lane.

The ATV trail, SPHP!  We found it again!

It was true, and a blessed relief.  Lupe was soon back at Eldorado Creek.  After fording the stream, while SPHP used the log over the waterfall to cross, only the downhill march along the Eldorado trail remained.

Fabulous to be on a trail again, but with exhaustion setting in, the pitch black forest trek still felt long.  The return was uneventful, except for one thing.  The yellow trail markers were super easy to spot now, since they brightly reflected the light of the flashlight.  When Lupe got back to the muddy stretch, it turned out that the Atlin Alpine Society actually had created a nice single track trail around it.

So, has the Atlin Alpine Society redeemed itself, SPHP?

Absolutely, Loop!  Our earlier mud adventure was entirely my fault for not paying closer attention to their trail markers.

9-8-22, 12:01 AM, Eldorado trailhead, Warm Bay Road – Exhausted, Lupe leapt back up onto her pink blanket in the RAV4.  The Carolina Dog still had enough strength to gobble an entire can of Ol’ Roy, and help SPHP polish off the rest of the roasted chicken, plus a packet of Ritz crackers before calling it a night.  What a glorious day West Sentinel Mountain and Sentinel Mountain had been!

On the way from West Sentinel Mountain to Sentinel Mountain, British Columbia, Canada 9-7-22

Links:

Next Adventure                         Prior Adventure

Atlin Alpine Society

Lupe’s West Sentinel Mountain GPS track (ascent, partial)

Lupe’s Sentinel Mountain GPS track (descent)

Birch Mountain, Skagway Ranges, British Columbia, Canada – Part 1: Across Atlin Lake to Teresa Island! (8-12-22)

Monarch Mountain near Atlin, British Columbia, Canada (8-12-18)

The Crocus Trail to Pine Creek Falls, Atlin, British Columbia, Canada (8-11-18)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Birch Mountain on Teresa Island, Skagway Ranges, British Columbia, Canada – Part 2: Base Camp to the Summit! (8-13-22)

Days 15 & 16 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-13-22, after midnight, 5,300 foot base camp on Teresa Island – The light of a waning, still nearly full moon was shining on the back side of the tiny house.  Looking out front, the sky was light to the N as well, the sun stealthily slinking around to the E not too far below the horizon.  A few distant red lights were blinking a bit N of where Atlin had to be, but the little town itself wasn’t in sight.

Only the brightest stars were visible in the moonlit sky.  Polaris and the Big Dipper stood out.  Comfortably mild, the air was dead calm.  The tiny house didn’t flap at all.  Inside, Lupe was zonked.

Not SPHP!  Stirred by this incredible scene, the awesome feeling of being so high and alone on Teresa Island, and the American Dingo’s fabulous prospects for actually getting to the summit of Birch Mountain (6,765 feet) today, SPHP couldn’t get back to sleep.

That was a problem.  With cloudiness in the forecast, SPHP resolved to get up as soon as the sun did.  Better minimize any chance Lupe would arrive at the summit too late, only to find the certain to be spectacular views lost in fog.  Yet laying there thinking for hours, this worry seemed overblown.  So far, not a cloud was to be seen in the beautiful night sky.

8-13-22, 7:53 AM, 5,300 foot base camp on Teresa Island – Suddenly, the sun was well above the horizon!  A bit of a breeze stirred the air, and clouds were now visible in the distance, mostly to the S and E.

Loop, wake up!

Huh?  What’s wrong, SPHP?

I overslept!  We’ve got to get going!  Here, have some Taste of the Wild while I get the pack ready.

A gorgeous morning!  Conditions weren’t threatening at all, but SPHP hurried, anyway, unhappy at having slept in.  Just dumb!

Emerging from the tiny house, about ready to take off, there was that stunning view of Atlin Lake to the N, with Mount Minto (6,913 ft.) and Mount Hitchcock (5,886 ft.) standing as sentinels near the far end, and Atlin Mountain (6,722 ft.) much closer to the NW.

Atlin Mountain (L). Mount Minto (Center) and Mount Hitchcock (R of Center) in the distance. Photo looks N.

Oh, SPHP!  It isn’t a dream, we’re really here, way up on Teresa Island!  This is going to be one of our most wonderful days ever!

Believe you’re right, Loopster!  Let’s make sure of it.  Onward!  Puppy ho!

Turning S, Lupe scrambled up the 6 foot high escarpment sheltering the tiny house to the gently sloping plain covered with low bushes above.  Birch Mountain’s true summit 2.2 miles SSW wasn’t in sight yet.  To get there, the Carolina Dog was going to have to circle around the S end of the deep valley to the W.

Setting off for Birch Mountain’s true summit! Photo looks SSW.
Wildflowers near base camp. Photo looks SSW.

Keep going S, SPHP?

Yup.  We’ve got to go over HP6129, that big hill we saw yesterday, Loop.

HP6129 was a mile away, maybe more, and wasn’t in sight yet, either.  This jaunt was uphill all the way, of course, but at an easy to moderate pace.  Roaming the vast, gentle slope, Lupe was soon past the greenest regions of low bushes and wildflowers, and into rockier terrain.

Heading up the rocky slope. Photo looks SSW.

Progress was excellent on this open ground.  Both HP6129 and the top of Birch Mountain soon came into view.  SPHP was surprised to see 2 tall, dark pylons up on HP6129.

HP6129 (L), Birch Mountain summit (R). Photo looks SSW.

Keep going S, Loop, but angle off toward the W a bit, too.

You mean over to the edge of the big valley, SPHP?

Yup!  Let’s get a look at Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.) from there.

Reaching the edge of the canyon, Birch Mountain was fully on display.

Birch Mountain (Center). HP6621 (L). Photo looks SW.

Wow!  Isn’t Birch Mountain beautiful, SPHP?  An easy climb, too!

Absolutely stunning, Loop!  Never thought we’d see this!  Shouldn’t have any trouble getting over there, either.  We did the hard part yesterday.

Clouds were now spreading across the sky, but they were thin and high.  Everything was fine.  The only worrisome sign was a little puff of fog hanging over HP6621 less than a km SE of Birch Mountain’s summit.

We better keep going, Loop!

The last part of the trek up to HP6129 was steeper and rockier.  Not at all difficult, though.  Lupe spotted a ptarmigan among the rocks.  Reaching HP6129, the American Dingo found herself on a flat, open plain of sparse vegetation and modest-sized rocks.

The dark green pylons were just off to the E now, but with a line of little puffs of gray forming between HP6621 and Birch Mountain’s summit, SPHP thought it unwise to spend any time checking them out.  Ignoring the pylons, Lupe continued S across the plateau.

The ptarmigan.
Near the pylons on HP6129. Photo looks ESE.
Crossing the HP6129 plateau. HP6621 (Center), Birch Mountain summit (R). Photo looks SW.

From the S edge of the HP6129 plateau, Lupe began a gradual descent SSW toward the saddle leading to HP6621.  A long line of of rocky hills sporting snowfields was now in sight extending SE from HP6621.

Heading for HP6621 (R of Center). Photo looks SSW.
The line of rocky hills SE of HP6621. Photo looks SE.

Wow, look at how much territory there is to explore, SPHP!

We’ve seen it from afar many times, Loopster.  Birch Mountain is huge, and Teresa Island is even larger.  No telling how many days we could spend exploring the whole thing, if we had a way to resupply.

That would be a blast, SPHP!

Sure would, Looper!  Let’s concentrate on our objective, though.  These clouds are starting to worry me.

The string of clouds between HP6621 and Birch Mountain’s summit was becoming more persistent.  Now and then, it all sailed off to the NE, and both peaks were in sunshine.  Yet the clouds kept reforming, as though the mountain itself was remanufacturing them.

Speed might be important!  Happily, this was super easy terrain all the way down to the low point of the saddle leading to HP6621.  Traveling along the edge of the enormous canyon NE of Birch Mountain’s summit, Lupe paused occasionally to take in the incredible views.

Along the edge of the canyon at the saddle leading to HP6621 (L). Birch Mountain summit (R). Photo looks SW.
Clouds sweeping over HP6621. Birch Mountain summit (R). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.
The canyon view. Atlin Mountain (L). Torres Channel of Atlin Lake (Center) with Mount Minto beyond. Mount Hitchcock (R) in the distance. W edge of HP6129 (far R). Photo looks N.

The top of HP6621 was at least temporarily in sight, as Lupe started for it.  The ground was rockier now, and became increasingly so.  Except for the black lichens of the far N, vegetation vanished completely during the scramble up to HP6621‘s N ridge.

Heading for HP6621 (R). Photo looks SW.
Scrambling up to HP6621‘s N ridge. Photo looks WSW.

Once up on the ridgeline, unexpected patches of dirt and tundra formed a lane leading higher.  As Lupe approached the top of HP6621, the sky cleared to a brilliant blue.

On HP6621‘s N ridge. Photo looks SSW.

8-13-22, 9:55 AM – Unprotected up here from a chilly 20 mph SW wind, moments later, Lupe reached HP6621 in a dense fog.  Couldn’t see a darn thing except the ground at her paws!  Expecting it to clear again almost instantly, a 5 minute wait produced no change.  SPHP was dismayed!

Oh, my gosh, Lupe!  We’re 2 minutes too late?  Criminy!  We should have been here hours ago.  How could I have slept in like that, knowing it was supposed to cloud up today?

So, why did you sleep in, SPHP?  The plan was to get up at first light!

I was so excited about Birch Mountain, I was awake half the night, Loop.  Then like an idiot, I pass out at the end!  Next thing I know, it’s 8:00 AM, and you’re still dead to the world!

I was just getting my beauty rest, SPHP!  Besides, it was a long way up to base camp yesterday.  I was tired.  Weren’t you supposed to wake me up?  Anyway, you’re overly excited.  It was sunny less than 10 minutes ago, let’s wait a little longer.  It’ll clear off again.

Oh, no we don’t!  We’re not waiting here!  Conditions have deteriorated all morning.  Might easily keep getting worse.  I sure hope not!  If we do get a break, we want to be on top of Birch Mountain when it happens.  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Visibility had already improved to a few hundred feet as Lupe started down HP6621‘s W ridge.  Vegetation faded and rocks grew in size.  Loop was soon scrambling among talus.  The ridge narrowed.  Progress was much slower here, but there wasn’t any great rush in these conditions.

On HP6621, about to head down the W ridge (Center). Photo looks W.

As Lupe approached the big curve where the ridge swept around to the N toward Birch Mountain’s hidden summit, a huge snowfield came into view nestled on the sheltered NE side of the ridge.  A little turquoise blue tarn was visible at its base.

The snow came right up close to the top of the ridge, curving right along with it, but didn’t extend onto or over the ridge at any point.  The steep, slippery edge was incredibly dangerous, but even though the ridge got pretty skinny, it remained wide enough to avoid having to venture out onto the snow at all.

Following HP6621‘s W ridge as the snowfield comes into view. Photo looks NW.

Fog streamed by as Lupe continued her scramble among the talus.  She hadn’t lost much elevation, when suddenly glimpses of Atlin Lake and the S end of Teresa Island began appearing.

A hint of what’s out there. Photo looks SSW.

For 15 minutes, the views came and went, but showed improvement each time.  The whole S end of Teresa Island appeared, surrounded by Atlin Lake.  Many much smaller islands could be seen, and eventually the Llewellyn Glacier was in sight, too, beyond the S end of the lake.

S end of Atlin Lake and the Llewellyn Glacier (Center). Photo looks SSW.
Atlin Lake and the Llewellyn Glacier (R of Center). Photo looks SSW with help from the telephoto lens.
Zoomed in on the Llewellyn Glacier. Photo looks SSW.

A moment of exquisite beauty and clarity arrived, then vanished like a dream, as fog reformed and swept in again.

S end of Teresa Island, Atlin Lake, and the Llewellyn Glacier. Photo looks SW.

The ridge narrowed.  Lupe faced some minor ups and downs.  The low point came at a notch where the rocks were quite large, but still easily maneuvered among with a bit of caution.  Regaining a little elevation, tundra reappeared as the ridge turned N and broadened out again.

Conditions were far from pleasant in the cold fog and wind sweeping over the ridge, but the American Dingo pressed on.  Somewhere not too far ahead now, Birch Mountain’s summit was hidden in the clouds.

Approaching the low point before the ridge curves N. Photo looks W.
Regaining elevation beyond the low point notch. Photo looks WNW.
In fog and wind where the ridge broadens out after turning N. Photo looks N.

The wind increased as Lupe started up the dark, rocky slope leading to the summit.  Staying a little below the ridgeline along the protected E side, conditions were better.  Where possible, Lupe followed a lane of dirt and tundra.

Climbing toward the true summit. Photo looks N.

8-13-22, 11:13 AM, 48ºF, Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.) – Fog streaming by on a 25 mph wind out of the SW, Lupe stood on a low wall of rock.

At the true summit of Birch Mountain! Photo looks NNW.

Congratulations, Loopster!  This is it, the true summit of Birch Mountain!  May I shake your paw?

Yes, but be quick about it, SPHP, then let’s get out of this gale!

SPHP shook the graciously offered paw, a moment filled with both joy and remorse.  Lupe was really here!  She’d made it to Teresa Island, and all the way to Birch Mountain’s summit.  However, socked-in with fog, the summit hadn’t been visible from a distance for over an hour.  It had vanished even before the American Dingo reached HP6621.  Tragic, and such a stupid waste, not to have arrived a couple of hours earlier!

Magnificent job, Loopster!  Can I interest you in a hard-earned chocolate coconut bar?

Thought you’d never ask, SPHP!  Can I get on your lap, though?  There’s nothing but rocks to lay down on up here.

Sitting below the wall of rock, which greatly reduced exposure to the wind, SPHP faced E.  Curling up on SPHP’s lap, Lupe made short work of her share of the chocolate coconut bar, plus some Taste of the Wild.  The whole world was a chilly, soft gray as an endless stream of fog flew by.  Whether or not the sky would clear, revealing the splendid views Lupe had come all this way to see, was a complete unknown.

What now, SPHP?  Just sit here and wait?

All we can do, Looper.  Sit here and hope for the best!  Fortunately, we’ve got all day, provided conditions don’t get too extreme.

Maybe Lupe would get lucky?

For 20 minutes, nothing changed.  SPHP’s legs were starting to go numb under the Carolina Dog’s weight.  Gloomy thoughts of how foolish it had been not to have gotten here much earlier were as thick as the fog.

Stroking Lupe’s soft ears, suddenly SPHP’s brooding was interrupted by a dream-like vision.  Glancing back to the SW through wisps of fog, a line of mountains was visible beyond the Torres Channel!  The S end of Atlin Lake was in sight, too.

S end of Atlin Lake (L), Torres Channel (R). Photo looks SSW.

The fog reformed within seconds and the dream vanished, but the brief break was greatly encouraging.  More breaks began appearing every few minutes.  The sun was gradually gaining strength, slightly warming the air, lifting the clouds, and reducing fog formation.

For a while it was frustrating.  Views often disappeared within seconds.  Before Lupe could even get into position for a photo, the opportunity was lost.  A major relapse occurred.  Everything vanished completely, and did not reappear for a while.

For a long time, Lupe and SPHP alternated between sitting together in the cool breeze, or leaping up to admire fleeting glimpses of grandeur.  Eventually, Birch Mountain no longer produced a steady stream of fog.  Tremendous views were revealed in all directions, including some of the most beautiful Lupe had ever seen.

Mount Minto (6,913 ft.), and Mount Hitchcock (5,886 ft.) were far to the N on opposite sides of Atlin Lake.  Atlin Mountain (6,722 ft.) was much closer.  The town of Atlin was visible NNE.

Atlin Mountain (far L). Mount Minto (L) and Mount Hitchcock (L of Center) in the distance. Town of Atlin (R). Photo looks NNE.

Monarch Mountain (4,728 ft.) looked small to the NE.  HP6129 with its two pylons, and much of the territory Lupe had journeyed through to get here, were in sight in the same direction.  Sentinel Mountain (6,316 ft.) and West Sentinel Mountain (6,316 ft.) were almost directly E.

Monarch Mountain (L of Center) beyond Atlin Lake, HP6129 (R of Center) across the canyon. Photo looks NE.
Sentinel Mountain and West Sentinel Mountain (R) beyond Atlin Lake. Saddle (Center) between HP6129 and HP6619 in the foreground. Photo looks E.

Often in the shadow of the last lingering cloud formations, HP6619 was SE.  Lupe could see its W ridge, the curve N toward Birch Mountain’s summit, and the huge snowfield nestled just below the rim.

HP6619 (L). Photo looks SSE.

The Torres Channel was to the W, separating Teresa Island from a sea of peaks beyond.  Mountains extended in all directions until they blended in, becoming indistinguishable from the clouds sailing over them.

Atlin Mountain (far R), Torres Channel (L). Photo looks NW.
Torres Channel. Photo looks W.
Torres Channel. The Cathedral (L). Photo looks SW.

The most splendid scenes of all, though, were toward the S and SSW where the S end of Atlin Lake and Teresa Island were in sight.  The lake was an intricate pattern of bays, coves, points, islands, channels, and a big expanse of open water.  A line of the highest, snowiest mountains formed a wall beyond it, unbroken except by the distant Llewellyn Glacier glistening among them.

Atlin Lake (L), S end of Teresa Island (Center), Torres Channel (R). Photo looks SSW.
Zoomed in on The Narrows at the S end of Teresa Island. Photo looks SSW.
S end of Atlin Lake. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

Near the S end of the Torres Channel, the mighty Cathedral (6,965 ft.) stood guard over the region of the First and Second Narrows connecting Torres Bay to the rest of Atlin Lake.

The Cathedral (Center) looming over the Torres Channel. Photo looks SSW with help from the telephoto lens.

Many times, Lupe and SPHP roamed back and forth along the summit ridge.  Knowing that the American Dingo would never be here again, it was hard to tear away from the splendors Birch Mountain had to offer.

A little N of the true summit (L). Photo looks SSW.

8-13-22, 2:25 PM – Luck of the Dingo!  Birch Mountain was now a huge, complete success!  More than 3 hours after arriving, Lupe stood once again in the cool SW wind on the very highest rocks for the last time.

True summit of Birch Mountain. Photo looks SSW.

Birch Mountain has been magnificent, SPHP!  One of our best adventures ever!

Can’t begin to tell you what a pleasure it’s been to make this journey with you, Loopster!  I’m overjoyed it’s turned out the way it did.

Well, there was plenty more adventure to come!  Lupe still had to find her way back to Sandy Beach for the water taxi ride back across Atlin Lake, but that wasn’t until tomorrow.  Tonight, she’d still be Empress of Teresa Island back at base camp.  While SPHP started down, the Carolina Dog waited for the signal to begin her descent, too.

Final moments atop Birch Mountain. Photo looks NW.

With the sky so clear now, it was possible to see parts of the journey that hadn’t been visible during the ascent.  It all seemed far less daunting and mysterious.

Heading back down the S ridge. HP6619 (far L). Photo looks SSE.
Looking back at Birch Mountain’s summit. Photo looks N.
Along the snowfield W of HP6619. Photo looks NNW.
Birch Mountain from HP6619. Photo looks NW.

Once over HP6619 again, and down off the rockiest part, the rest of the trek back to base camp was absolute cake.  Grandeur all around, and so much fun!  A joyful, but wistful time.

On HP6619. Photo looks SE.
Birch Mountain (L), Atlin Mountain (R of Center) from the edge of the canyon. Photo looks NW.
Sentinel Mountain and West Sentinel Mountain (R of Center) beyond Atlin Lake. Photo looks E.

8-13-22, 5:18 PM, 5,300 foot base camp on Teresa Island – Lupe and SPHP arrived tired and happy back at the tiny house waiting in the sheltered nook.  The American Dingo still had her grand view to the N, but was anxious to get inside, enjoy a meal and a good snooze.  SPHP joined her.

8-13-22, 9:47 PM, 5,300 foot base camp on Teresa Island –

Looper, you awake?

I am now!  What is it, SPHP?

Just woke up.  You’ve got to see this!  Birch Mountain is putting on quite a display!  There’s a terrific sunset.

Atlin Mountain (Center) from base camp on Teresa Island. Photo looks NNW.

Lupe emerged from the tiny house in time to enjoy the fading glory of what had been a most memorable day.

Atlin Mountain (Center), Mount Minto (far R). Photo looks NW.
Atlin Mountain (L of Center), Mount Minto (R), Mount Hitchcock (far R). Photo looks NNW.
Mount Minto (L), Mount Hitchcock (R). Photo looks N.

8-14-22, 8:26 AM, 5,300 foot base camp on Teresa Island – Lupe sat staring N, hoping in vain for the return of 3 caribou that had been grazing way down the slope.  Prior to the American Dingo’s journey to Teresa Island, SPHP had greatly wondered how much and what types of wildlife she might encounter here?

The answer, virtually none.  Other than a few small birds, Lupe hadn’t seen any wildlife during the past 2 days.  The 3 caribou were a complete surprise this morning, but had vanished as soon as they’d seen her.

Waiting in vain for the return of the caribou. Photo looks N.

The tiny house disassembled and strapped to the pack, SPHP hoisted it all once more.

It’s that time, Looper!  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Returning to the 5,200+ foot plateau at the N end of Birch Mountain, SPHP called a brief halt to peer down on the island near Sandy Beach where Lupe needed to get back to.

Island by Sandy Beach (lower R). Photo looks NE.

Bearings set, the steepest part of the descent down Birch Mountain’s N slope began.  Staying a little farther W than during her ascent, Lupe was able to follow the edge of rock slides much farther down the mountain before they finally ended, forcing her into the forest.

Almost immediately upon entering the forest, Loop came across a couple of small, flat areas of bare dirt that were close together.  Discovering a clear trail, she followed it NNE.  This trail greatly aided SPHP in getting down the steepest part of the mountain without all the bushwhacking required among stunted evergreens encountered during Lupe’s ascent 2 days ago.

After 0.3 mile, the trail faded away.  About time to turn E, anyway!  The long descent continued, although not as steeply, through heavily forested terrain.  Nothing looked at all familiar until Lupe reached the bog again.

8-14-22, 1:50 PM – Somehow, Lupe had made it over to the NW end of Sandy Beach, a cause for concern, since the blackwater lagoon was now between her and SPHP.  Afraid she might try to swim across the lagoon, SPHP thrashed SE through the forest trying to get past it.  As if by some Dingo magic, Lupe suddenly reappeared nearby.

The sky was mostly overcast, the day pleasantly warm, when Lupe and SPHP reached Sandy Beach together.  To SPHP’s surprise, a white cabin cruiser was pulled up onto the sand, its occupants about ready to cast off.  Local residents, they expressed surprise, almost disbelief, upon learning Lupe had climbed Birch Mountain.

The visitors left, and Sandy Beach was the epitome of solitude again.

Back at Sandy Beach. Monarch Mountain (R). Photo looks NE.

Hungry, Looper?  We might as well have something to eat.

Bobby Smallwood isn’t coming back to get us until an hour before sunset, right, SPHP?

That’s the plan, Loop.  We’ve got a long wait, but that’s OK.  Love it here!

The afternoon was sublime!  Nothing to do, but relax in glorious total isolation on Teresa Island, listening to the waves lapping into shore, all while enjoying the sweet success of having been to Birch Mountain.  Lupe snoozed, or barked at a squirrel that came specifically to provide entertainment.  SPHP slept on the sand, and waded in the cold, clear shallows along shore.

Relaxing at Sandy Beach. Photo looks ESE.

Waking from a nap, a small flotilla of birds paddled by, often ducking under the waves only to resurface somewhere else.  They eventually vanished over by the island off the point.

Birds paddle by.
A bright yellow mushroom.

As evening came on, the sky darkened.  SPHP cleaned out the campfire ring, then took several strolls with Lupe while gathering driftwood to stack up for whoever might want to use it next.

Atlin Mountain (Center) from Sandy Beach. Photo looks NW.

Hours drifted by.  The wait continued.  Neither Lupe nor SPHP cared.

You know, Loop.  If the boat doesn’t show up until tomorrow, I would be completely fine with that!  How awesome is this?

Waiting for the boat. Photo looks N.

8-14-22, 8:11 PM, Sandy Beach on Teresa Island – Suddenly, tranquility was broken by a faint distant roar.  A dot racing across the waves grew in size.  The boat was coming!  Within minutes, the engine throttled down, and the vessel drifted into shore.

The water taxi arrives at Sandy Beach. Photo looks N.

Grabbing the pack, SPHP boosted Lupe up onto the boat as soon as it slid into the sand, then climbed aboard after her.  Bobby Smallwood wasn’t captain this time, having sent Kenny, his daughter’s boyfriend, instead.  Just as good!  Two minutes later, the Carolina Dog was bouncing across the waves, Teresa Island rapidly receding behind her.

Leaving Teresa Island. Photo looks SSW.

As the boat sped on, more of Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.) came into view.  The summit was hidden in the clouds, the sky looking almost stormy.  What fabulous luck to have been up there yesterday!

Adventure’s end, gazing back at Birch Mountain.

8-14-22, 8:35 PM, Atlin – Definitely some weather moving in!  Lupe stood on the docks looking back at Birch Mountain.  SPHP had already settled up with Bobby Smallwood’s wife, Jodie, at their cabin office.

Birch Mountain from Atlin. Photo looks SSW with help from the telephoto lens.

So, how much did it all come to, SPHP?

$392.00 CAN, taxes included, Loopster.  Right about what I expected.  Our single most expensive adventure ever!

Worth every penny, SPHP!  Birch Mountain was awesome start to finish!

Oh, yeah!  Couldn’t agree more, Looper!  One of our very best adventures ever, if you ask me.  So glad Edith Sidler put us onto Bobby Smallwood!

I’m just glad you didn’t chicken out because of the weather forecast, SPHP!  After all these years, this really was our golden opportunity, and you made the right choice.

Every once in a while, we do the right thing, Loop.

Well, the whole glorious Birch Mountain adventure was over.  Sad that it was in the rearview mirror now, but that’s the nature of things.

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

8-14-22, the favorite ridge off Hwy 7 overlooking the N end of Atlin Lake – A cool breeze was blowing, when Lupe arrived at dusk.  She stayed on her pink blanket in the RAV4, while SPHP heated up a can of chili for dinner.  Feasting on chili and Ritz crackers, the American Dingo watched as darkness fell over Mount Minto, Atlin Lake, and on the far S horizon, oh-so-fabulous Birch Mountain, too!

On Birch Mountain, Teresa Island in Atlin Lake, British Columbia, Canada 8-13-22

Links & Contact Information:

Next Adventure                       Prior Adventure

Birch Mountain, Skagway Ranges, British Columbia, Canada – Part 1: Across Atlin Lake to Teresa Island! (8-13-22)

Bobby Smallwood (water taxi) – Phone: (250) 651-2488

Discovery Helicopters

Glacier View Cabins (Peter & Edith Sidler owners)

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