Alaska – Page 2 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Peak 5050, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-30-22)

Part 2 of Day 32 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

2:37 PM, 51ºF, West Galbraith Peak (4,560 ft.) –

Alrighty, Loop! Sad, but true, summit hour is over. Ready to move on?

I was enjoying just hanging out up here, SPHP, but I suppose we better get going if we want to make it to Peak 5050.

Agree completely, Looper. This is fabulous, but Peak 5050 will be, too!

Let me tag the summit one more time, SPHP, then we’ll be on our way.

**West Galbraith Peak summit**. **Peak 5050** (R of Center). Photo looks SW.

After a brief farewell return to West Galbraith Peak’s high point, Lupe started down the mountain’s NW slope. The valley W of the mountain was the Carolina Dog’s first objective. 1,000+ feet of steep scree had to be negotiated before she’d get there.

As usual, SPHP was slow as molasses, giving Lupe plenty of time to enjoy the spectacular views during the descent. While she was still fairly high, Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) was in sight way out on the North Slope. Peak 4916 dominated the line of silvery mountains 2 miles NW, while Peak 4500 crowned the big ridge on the opposite side of the valley the American Dingo was heading for.

Starting the descent from **West Galbraith Peak**. **Imnavait Mountain** (L) way out on the **North Slope**. Photo looks NNE.

**Peak 4916** (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

**Peak 4500** (L), **Peak 4916** (R). Photo looks W.

Although aided by lanes of tundra during the lower part of the descent, it still took SPHP more than an hour to reach the valley floor. Pathetic! Ever a true friend, Lupe didn’t complain. In truth, she didn’t seem to be in much of a hurry herself. Upon reaching the valley, she chose to relax for a while near a small stream.

Down in the valley. **HP3500** (R of Center). Photo looks NNE.

Catching a few Dingo winks on the soft tundra.

After sharing some beef jerky with the American Dingo, SPHP munched on honey roasted peanuts.

Going to be a long, long day, Looper, but shouldn’t be hard to get to Peak 5050 from here. Think we just need to head up this valley until we reach the pass right next to it, then up we go!

A long day, but a gorgeous one, SPHP! Look at how much blue sky there is now! Hasn’t been this sunny since we got to the Brooks Range.

Looking back up **West Galbraith Peak**. Photo looks ESE.

Yeah! Best weather in nearly 2 weeks, Loop! Wonder how close we really are to the Gates of the Arctic National Park? Wish we had a map. I’m dying to know, now that we’ve decided to do this.

Maps are your department, SPHP. Hope Peak 5050 does turn out to be in the park. Gates of the Arctic NE Peak (5,050 ft.) would be so cool!

That’s for sure! Won’t know, though, until we get back home and I can do some research, Looper. In any case, this is all incredible territory, park or no park. Hard to believe we’re really here.

After a nice rest break, Lupe headed SW up the valley. The first part was sort of steep and a bit rocky. Staying toward the E side was best. Before long, the stream disappeared and the valley widened. Climbing a broad slope of plants with white seed heads, it seemed clear that some kind of a top was just ahead.

Among the white seed heads. Photo looks SW.

Above the white seed head plants, the terrain did begin leveling out. An easy jaunt got Lupe to an enormous pass W of West Galbraith Peak.

**West Galbraith Peak** from the pass. Photo looks E.

Continuing SW, the huge pass became mushy. Saturated with moisture, it threatened to become a sea of mud. Meanwhile, views of the territory Lupe was now approaching were most intriguing.

A long valley did extend SW toward the region where Peak 5050 was, but what SPHP hadn’t expected was the giant gap of gently sloping terrain to the SE. Beyond the gap, the biggest glacier on Mount Kiev (7,775 ft.) was once again in sight.

The **valley leading to Peak 5050** (Center). Photo looks SW.

Continuing over the pass. **Glacier** (L of Center) on **Mount Kiev**. Photo looks S.

In order to avoid the mud, Lupe headed for the W side of the pass, then climbed a little way up onto firmer ground. Resuming her SW course, views of the region beyond the SE gap kept getting better and better.

Near the **W side of the pass**. **Mount Kiev** (R of Center). Photo looks S.

The **SE gap**. **Peak 6800** (R) in the clouds. Photo looks SSE.

Wow! Look at that, SPHP! We could roam for forever and a day in these big valleys between the mountains.

Yes! Fires the imagination, doesn’t it, Loop? Not a tree in sight! This looks so much like the classic unspoiled Arctic we’ve always dreamed of!

While the view was nearly perfect, it wasn’t completely so. Down by the creek on the way up the valley, Lupe had scared up another small flock of the gray birds with white wings like the ones she’d seen on the way to Imnavait Mountain a week ago. She also seen a few other smaller birds, but that had been it for wildlife.

As Lupe stared out over the vast valleys between the mountains, nothing at all moved. No caribou, fox, musk ox, lynx, or bear in sight. Not even a snowshoe bunny. Stunningly gorgeous, but so empty! So quiet!

Needs more squirrels, SPHP!

Heh, no trees, Loop.

How about some marmots or pikas then, SPHP?

You’d think we’d see something, wouldn’t you, Loopster? But we don’t. C’mon. Onward! Puppy, ho!

Continuing SW, Lupe headed for the valley leading to Peak 5050.

Super easy terrain! Even SPHP made rapid progress while Lupe roamed ahead. Soon she was in the valley, starting the trudge toward the pass that would get her to Peak 5050. Especially in the lower part, the valley was carpeted with brown moss. Near a tiny stream, there were places where the moss was still bright green.

Some of the relatively rare bright green moss.

The stream soon vanished. The valley steepened and became rockier. As Lupe approached the pass, SPHP wondered what she would see on the other side?

Surprise! Upon reaching the pass, a second pass was ahead. Beyond a 50 foot drop, the valley Lupe had been following continued higher. This upper section actually drained into a narrow gorge to the R (N).

The **second pass** from the first one. **Peak 5050** (R). Photo looks SW.

Start of the **narrow gorge** (Center) that drained N. **Peak 5050** (L). Photo looks WNW.

Peak 5050 was right there, though. All Lupe had to do was get up to that second pass, and she’d be perfectly positioned to climb it. Fortunately, the 50 foot drop wasn’t a sheer one. After a steepish, rocky descent, the American Dingo kept going.

About to head for the **second pass** after getting beyond the first one. Photo looks SW.

**Peak 4500** (Center). **West Galbraith Peak** and the **first pass** (far R). Photo looks NNE.

When Lupe got there, the second pass proved to be as big as a football field both in width and length. Continuing across it, Peak 5176 was in view on the far side. A third, slightly higher pass was also in sight, but beyond a much deeper drop into another valley draining N.

**Peak 5176** (L), and the **third pass** (R). Photo looks SW.

Clearly, getting to that third pass would be considerably more difficult, but as much fun as it would be to roam forever, Lupe didn’t need to go any farther. Peak 5050 was immediately NW of this second pass. Still 600 feet higher, only the lower slopes were visible from here.

**Peak 5050** from the **second pass**. Photo looks NW.

Heading NW, Lupe attacked the mountain. Tundra-covered slopes gave way to steep scree similar to that experienced on West Galbraith Peak. Utilizing lanes of vegetation whenever possible, Lupe scrambled higher. Once the rate of climb diminished slightly, she angled WSW toward a S ridge where knobs of bedrock were visible.

Upon reaching this ridge, the Carolina Dog had only another 200 feet of elevation gain left to go. The rest of the ascent wasn’t hard at all.

On the **S ridge**. Summit not in sight yet. Photo looks N.

7:09 PM, 47ºF, Peak 5050 – Dark clouds hung over the Brooks Range when Lupe reached the true summit on a short ridge running SW/NE. A reasonably large area of moderately sloping scree surrounded this ridge providing plenty of space to move around. With scarcely a breeze, and sunnier skies N and E, conditions were still quite pleasant.

The views were incredible! 8 miles SW, beyond the third pass that Lupe hadn’t made it to, a long high ridge sporting a line of glaciers was among the first to grab attention.

We’ve seen those glaciers before, SPHP, but from much farther away!

We have, Loopster, from Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.). That ridge is Peak 7386. It’s beyond the Itikmalak River valley.

At the **true summit of Peak 5050**. Glaciers on **Peak 7386** (Center) beyond the third pass. **Peak 5176** (L). Photo looks SW.

**Peak 5176** (L), **Peak 7386** (Center). Photo looks SW.

**Peak 7386**. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

The big glacier on Mount Kiev (7,775 ft.) that had been visible from West Galbraith Peak (4,560 ft.) earlier today was also in view.

**Glacier on Mount Kiev** (far L), **Peak 5376** (Center), **Peak 7386** (R). Photo looks SSW.

**Glacier on Mount Kiev** (R of Center). Photo looks S.

**Mount Kiev** (L), **Peak 7447** (R). Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

Having left the Galbraith Lake campground more than 9 hours ago, Lupe was glad to see a couple patches of brown tundra on Peak 5050’s summit ridge where she could rest. SPHP sat next to her, as the American Dingo made herself comfortable.

Well, we made it to Peak 5050, SPHP! Wonder if we’re in Gates of the Arctic National Park now?

Don’t know, Looper. I’m certain we’re at least seeing it from here when we look SW.

Wouldn’t happen to have another chocolate coconut bar, would you?

Sorry, I don’t, Loop. Didn’t realize we were going to go this far when we set out this morning. Only brought the one we ate on West Galbraith Peak. I’ve got a chocolate chip Cliff bar we can split, though.

That’ll do, SPHP!

Congratulating Lupe on her successful ascent of magnificent Peak 5050, SPHP shook her paw, then shared the Cliff bar with her. Basking now and then in evening sunshine, glory was all around!

Looking back to the NE, West Galbraith Peak (4,560 ft.), looking much lower from here, partially blocked the view of Galbraith Lake. Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.) was lined up directly behind it.

**Peak 4500** (L), **West Galbraith Peak** (Center) with **Galbraith Lake** & **Lake Benchmark Mountain** beyond it. **Peak 5308** (R). Photo looks NE.

Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) and Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.) were still in view, too, way out on Alaska’s North Slope.

**Peak 4916** (far L), **Imnavait Mountain** (L), **Slope Mountain** (R), **Peak 4500** (far R). Photo looks NNE.

**Imnavait Mountain** (L), **Slope Mountain** (Center), **Peak 4500** (R of Center), **West Galbraith Peak** & **Lake Benchmark Mountain** (far R). Photo looks NNE.

Peak 6800 was SE. Nearly 1,000 feet lower than Mount Kiev, which was always up in the clouds only a few miles away, Peak 6800‘s summit was cloud-free.

Sitting together on the biggest patch of brown tundra at the true summit, the sense of remote isolation was profound. Peak 5050 almost felt like a different world, a new, unspoiled world of unknown and unsuspected mysteries, dangers, and epic beauty.

Relaxing on **Peak 5050**. **Peak 6800** (L), **Mount Kiev** (R). Photo looks SSE.

It’s like we could go on forever, and never see anyone again, Loop!

Forever wouldn’t be nearly as long as you think, SPHP, once we ran out of supplies. Speaking of which, I’m famished! I sure hope you brought some!

Lupe had some Taste of the Wild from her silver bowl. SPHP shared some delicious beef jerky with her. Must have been enough to take the edge off her hunger. Eyes grown heavy, for a while the Carolina Dog snoozed on her soft, lofty perch on the N side of the Brooks Range.

**Peak 6800** (L), **Mount Kiev** (Center), **Peak 7447** (R of Center), **Peak 5376** (far R). Photo looks S.

Facing WNW toward the setting sun, SPHP sat crunching away on honey roasted peanuts while looking down an arm of the mountain that ended with a plunge into a deep canyon. Beyond the next ridge, a series of long jagged ridges extended from the Brooks Range toward the North Slope where lakes and rivers Lupe had never seen before, not even from Imnavait Mountain, glistened.

Gazing down **Peak 5050’s NW arm**. Photo looks NW.

**Edge of the North Slope** (Center). Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe was most likely as close as she ever would be to that unknown land beckoning on this gorgeous late August evening. Technically, this wasn’t a new world, but an ancient, yet still pristine, one. Entirely new to Lupe and SPHP, though, and that was all that mattered.

One thing for sure, days like today are what being the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood is all about, aren’t they, Loopster?

Absolutely, SPHP! If only every day could be like this one! After a 3 year absence, I really have returned to the true Arctic, haven’t I?

Long overdue, but here we are, Loop. And isn’t it grand!

Tragically, summit hour was ending. A final look around, and time to go.

**West Galbraith Peak** (L) with **Lake Benchmark Mountain** beyond it. **Galbraith Lake** (Center), **Peak 5308** (R of Center). Photo looks NE.

**Peak 4916** (far L), **Imnavait Mountain** (L), **Slope Mountain** (R). Photo looks NNE.

**Land of mystery** from **Peak 5050**. Photo looks NW.

**Peak 7386** (L of Center). Photo looks SSW.

8:14 PM – The spur of the moment decision to venture on to Peak 5050 had been a stupendous success! Still lots more adventure yet to come during the long trek back. While SPHP started down, Lupe lingered on the summit waiting for the signal to come along.

Final moments on **Peak 5050**. Photo looks N.

Alrighty, Looper! Onward! Puppy, ho!

The return was amazing! Would have been even better if SPHP’s paws hadn’t started developing blisters. As light slowly faded from the Arctic sky, Lupe led the way for hours, SPHP limping after.

Leaving the 2nd pass. **Peak 4500** (L), **West Galbraith Peak** (Center). Photo looks NE.

It was pretty dark by the time Lupe made it back to the little stream W of West Galbraith Peak. No need to go over the mountain again. Lupe just kept going down the valley until she could angle NE through the pass S of HP3500.

11:30 PM, N of West Galbraith Mountain – August was nearly over, and the sun had already been down for 1.5 hours, yet there was still a little light in the sky as Lupe emerged from the pass. Off to the N, a rosy glow illuminated the smooth horizon leading to the North Slope.

Should have taken a photo. Waiting for midnight, it was gone. At times, a few lights showed the location of the Galbraith airstrip. A couple of fires at the campground soon went out. In darkness, aided only by the flashlight, what SPHP expected to be an easy downhill march proved to be confusing, rumpled terrain. Weary and ready for it all to end, Lupe soldiered on over one unanticipated minor hill after another.

Finally did end, though. Suddenly the campground access road was just ahead. Upon reaching it, a painful, hobbling success was assured.

8-31-22, 1:11 AM, Galbraith Lake campground – Exhausted, Lupe leapt up onto her pink blanket in the RAV4. Too tired to eat, she was out like a light, happily on her way to Dingo Dreamland where it really is possible to roam toward that unspoiled, ever-beckoning Arctic horizon forever.

Note: Months later, SPHP checked online maps and discovered that Peak 5050 is not in Gates of the Arctic National Park, and did not deserve the proposed name of Gates of the Arctic NE Peak (5,050 ft.). However, Peak 5176 less than a mile SSW is right on the boundary of Gates of the Arctic National Preserve. As the highest mountain along or within the boundary in that region, it would merit the name Gates of the Arctic NE Peak.

**Gates of the Arctic NE Peak** **(5,176 ft.)** (L) from **Peak 5050**. Photo looks SSW.

On **Peak 5050**, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-30-22

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Peak 5050 GPS Track (Return)

Gates of the Arctic National Park & Preserve Map

Lake Benchmark Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-19-17)

Slope Mountain & Highlights of the Dalton Highway Revisited, Alaska (8-22-17 & 8-23-17)

Imnavait Mountain, North Slope, Alaska (8-22-22)

BLM Dalton Highway Visitor Guide

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

West Galbraith Peak, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-30-22)

Part 1 of Day 32 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

9:58 AM, 42ºF, Galbraith Lake campground –

Think everything’s about ready, Loopster! Shall we?

We shall, SPHP!

Full of enthusiasm, Lupe left the campsite trotting SW through the tall, yellow bushes, heading straight for the nearest mountain, the one SPHP had finally decided to call West Galbraith Peak (4,560 ft.).

About to set out for **West Galbraith Peak** (R of Center). Photo looks SW.

The sky was still almost entirely overcast this morning, but the fog that had rolled in late yesterday evening was gone, and the mountains were below the clouds. An unexpected, but happy turn of events.

Lupe was ecstatic! She raced away across the tundra, exploring and sniffing far ahead of SPHP.

Leaving the **Galbraith Lake campground**. **Lupe** (R). Photo looks WSW.

Shortly after crossing the campground access road, Lupe made it to the stream that passes S of it on its way to Galbraith Lake. This stream was bigger than SPHP expected and rather rocky.

Approaching the stream. **West Galbraith Peak** (R). Photo looks SW.

**West Galbraith Peak** (Center) from the big stream. Photo looks SW.

Following the stream toward the mountain on the exposed streambed was more trouble than it was worth. Too rocky! Returning to the bank overlooking the stream, the Carolina Dog discovered a use trail, which made life easy.

Before long, the floodplain broadened out a great deal. The lip of the bank Lupe was on turned W. Climbing steadily, she was soon quite far from the stream, although she could still see and hear it.

Heading W along the upper lip of the floodplain. Photo looks W.

Approaching West Galbraith Peak, the stream curved SSW. Several glaciers were visible at the far upper end of the valley in the vicinity of Mount Kiev (7,775 ft.), which was high enough to be up in the clouds. That whole region looked mighty enticing, but much more rugged and beyond the scope of anything SPHP was prepared for today.

**Glaciers near Mount Kiev** (L), **West Galbraith Peak** (R). Photo looks SSW.

**Mount Kiev region**. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

In the opposite direction, rolling hills led toward Alaska’s North Slope, which was out of sight, but not all that far away. Bits of blue sky, and the vastness of the open terrain beckoned there, too.

**Alaska’s North Slope** is just over the horizon. Photo looks N.

Looking NE back downstream, Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.) and Peak 5308 were in sight, as well as part of Galbraith Lake.

**Lake Benchmark Mountain** (L), **Peak 5308** (R), **Peak 5430** (far R), **Galbraith Lake** (Center). Photo looks NE.

The edge of the high ground Lupe was following swept around in a wide arc, eventually turning S, too. Gradually gaining elevation, the American Dingo explored a bench of tundra below West Galbraith Peak’s NE slopes on the R (W) that overlooked the stream on the L (E).

Continuing S for more than 0.5 mile, this bench began to narrow before shriveling away. A steep E ridge coming down off West Galbraith Peak was directly ahead. The intention was to at least get to this ridge to see what might lay beyond it, but by the time Lupe was starting to get close, she was having to traverse rock slides.

Nearly to the **E ridge** (R). Photo looks S.

Lupe could have made it to the E ridge. She was nearly there when, looking up the mountain, a nice long stretch of brown tundra appeared on the R. It was steep, but extended hundreds of feet up the mountain.

You know, Loop, might be easier to head up right here. Tundra looks good, and the rockier region above it doesn’t look bad, either. Appears we can intercept the E ridge somewhere up there without much trouble. Doubt we’ll see a better route around the next bend, anyway. Want to try it?

Fine with me, SPHP, but what does the topo map say?

Don’t have any maps of this area, Loopster. West Galbraith Peak is just one of those spur of the moment “Bet we can climb that one!” peaks.

Turning W, Lupe started up the tundra.

Heading up **West Galbraith Peak**. Photo looks W.

It was a long, steep climb, but perfectly doable. Lupe had plenty of time to study the intricacies of the tundra, or admire the views during SPHP’s frequent breaks to gasp for air.

Tundra eventually became scarce, reduced to small tufts and occasional larger patches. Lupe continued higher, angling WSW toward the E ridge on good-sized scree that was rough and irregular in shape. It generally held together well, rarely shifting much and providing good support.

Back to the NE, Lupe could see nearly all of Galbraith Lake now.

Amid the scree, heading for the **E ridge** (L). Photo looks WSW.

**Galbraith Lake**. **Lake Benchmark Mountain** (L of Center), **Peak 5308** (R), **Peak 5430** (far R). Photo looks NE.

By the time Lupe reached the E ridge, she was already at 4,100 feet with less than 500 feet to go. The views to the S were even better now, and a bit of blue sky raised hopes of sunshine before too long.

The **glaciers** (Center) from **West Galbraith Peak’s E ridge**. Photo looks S.

Blue sky near **Mount Kiev**. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

Another view was more disconcerting. Much of West Galbraith Peak’s long summit ridge was now in sight. A high point way over at the SSW end looked like it might well be the true summit. Getting to it appeared potentially problematic.

**SSW high point** (L), **NNE high point** (far R). Photo looks SW.

Scrambling WNW, Lupe continued higher. Scree all the way! Still quite steep, but parts of the ascent weren’t bad at all. Almost no talus up here, only a little near an outcropping of bedrock that was easily avoided. Soon Lupe was closing in on the mountain’s NNE high point.

Heading for the **NNE summit** (L). Photo looks WNW.

**NNE summit** (L of Center). Almost there! Photo looks W.

1:37 PM, 51ºF, West Galbraith Peak (4,560 ft.) – Lupe’s perch on the NNE summit was sufficient, but certainly not any bigger than it needed to be. Looking SSW along the long summit ridge, SPHP was satisfied.

On the **NNE summit**. **SSW summit** (L). Photo looks SW.

Hard to say for certain, Looper, but I think we’re golden!

So we’re already at the true summit of West Galbraith Peak, SPHP?

Believe so, Loop! Might be an illusion, but if that SSW high point is any higher, it can’t be by much. Think I’d actually bet on this being the true summit.

Kind of a narrow ridge, SPHP. Are we going there, anyway, to make sure?

Naw! Don’t think it’s worth the trouble, Loopster. Looks like we could get there, if we’re careful, but seems unnecessary. If this ridge was wider, we’d do it. Would be interesting to see how things look from over there.

Well, good! I’m ready for a break anyway, SPHP! Can we just hang out here then?

Why, of course! Right after I shake your paw, Loopster! Congratulations on your successful ascent of another fabulous peak in the Brooks Range!

An eagerly accepted chocolate coconut bar and beef jerky were shared in celebration of the joyous occasion. Although the absolute high point was small and rocky, patches of tundra nearby were sufficiently large to provide a selection of comfortable perches.

At what appeared to be the **true summit of West Galbraith Peak**. Photo looks SW.

**Lake Benchmark Mountain** (L), **Peak 5308** (Center), **Peak 7090** (R). Photo looks ENE.

The views were incredible! Off to the S, the glaciers in the Mount Kiev region were disappearing among rain showers, making the silvery peaks in that direction even more mysterious.

Rain showers toward **Mount Kiev**. Photo looks S.

Loopster catching a few winks, apparently not overly concerned. Photo looks S.

Skies were sunnier toward the E. Galbraith Lake and the Atigun River were in sight. Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.) was the highest point N of the river beyond Galbraith Lake. The series of peaks farther S were progressively higher toward the SE. Peak 7090 stood out, but both Peak 7200 and Wellsung Mountain (7,580 ft.) were more daunting.

**Galbraith Lake** and the **Atigun River**. **Lake Benchmark Mountain** (L), **Peak 5308** (R), **Peak 5430** (far R). Photo looks NE.

**Lake Benchmark Mountain** (Center), **Peak 5308** (R). Photo looks NE.

**Peak 7090** (L of Center), **Peak 7200** and **Wellsung Mountain** (R). Photo looks SE.

Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) and Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.) were in view way out on the North Slope. To the NW, a line of silvery peaks hid whatever was beyond it.

**Imnavait Mountain** (L edge) and **Slope Mountain** (L of Center) both on the horizon. **Lake Benchmark Mountain** (R). Photo looks NNE.

**Imnavait Mountain** (L of Center) and **Slope Mountain** (R). Photo looks N.

Although cloudy, conditions were near perfect. Comfortably warm, and no bugs despite no breeze at all. With beautiful sights in all directions and plenty of time to enjoy them, SPHP began daydreaming about other peaks Lupe could climb in this region some day.

Relaxing on **West Galbraith Peak**. Photo looks WSW.

Early enough, SPHP. Maybe we could climb another mountain today?

Yeah, but we’d get back mighty late, if we did that, Loopster.

So what, SPHP? Look at where we are! Surrounded by amazing territory on a perfect day on the N side of the Brooks Range! How often do we get an opportunity like this? We could at least do some more exploring!

Maybe you’re right, Loop! Your traditional summit hour will be over here pretty soon. Should we pick out another objective?

At first, the line of peaks to the NW seemed to offer the best possibilities that were reasonably nearby. The American Dingo ought to enjoy a truly spectacular panoramic view of the North Slope from over there!

How about that pointy peak off to the SW, SPHP? It’s even higher!

You mean the one on the R side of that pass, Loop?

**Peak 5050** (Center). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Yes! Kind of steep, but it’s not as rugged as the stuff on the other side of the pass. I’m almost positive we could climb it, SPHP.

Yeah, I believe you’re right, Loopster. If we can get down to the valley W of us here, we should be able to follow it all the way to that pass before scrambling to the top.

Gazing down West Galbraith Peak’s NNW slope, 1,000+ feet of scree led down to the valley in question.

Peering down **West Galbraith Peak’s NNW slope**. Photo looks NNW.

So, what do you think, SPHP? Can you do it? I know I can!

Steep, but clearly manageable, Loop. It’ll take me a while, but we can get down to the valley alright. Don’t think we’ll have a problem from there.

Want to try for that pointy peak then, SPHP?

Sure! I like this idea, Looper! In fact, that mountain might even be within the NE corner of Gates of the Arctic National Park.

Oh, are we that close to the Gates of the Arctic, SPHP? How awesome would that be, climbing a mountain there!

Super awesome, Loop, but I’m not sure exactly how far we are from the park. Can’t be too far from it, though.

If that mountain turns out to be inside the park, or even on the border, we could call it Gates of the Arctic NE Peak (5,050 ft.), couldn’t we?

Yeah, that would probably make sense, Loop. Would have to see a map to be sure. I’m all stirred up about it now. Want to go for it?

Yes, but not until my summit hour is done, SPHP. West Galbraith Peak is an incredible place, too! Let’s enjoy our time here. Then we’ll go.

Fair enough, Loopster. Sounds like a plan!

Surrounded by splendor on all sides, Lupe relaxed on the soft tundra as her final precious minutes up on West Galbraith Peak (4,560 ft.) ticked away. Meanwhile, SPHP enjoyed the fabulous Brooks Range views, now drawn especially to the magnetic one off to the SW.

Next objective and potential **Gates of the Arctic NE Peak** (R). Photo looks SW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Enjoying summit hour on **West Galbraith Peak**, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-30-22

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s West Galbraith Peak GPS Track (Ascent)

Lake Benchmark Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-19-17)

BLM Dalton Highway Visitor Guide

Happy Valley, Deadhorse & The Arctic Ocean Tour (8-27-22 to 8-29-22)

Part 2 of Day 29, and Days 30 & 31 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-27-22, 5:30 PM – Following the pilot car for miles through fog and rain, the Dalton Highway was a hideous, sloppy mess. Despite the wretched conditions, a multitude of heavy equipment was active. One huge truck after another brought giant loads of coarse gravel destined to help build up the roadbed. SPHP cringed every time one passed by in the opposite direction slinging mud and rocks.

Our poor, RAV4, SPHP! It’s only a year old, and taking a beating!

I know, Loop. Nothing I can do about it. Only supposed to be 16 miles of this nonsense. Ought to get to the end of it any day now.

Approaching Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.) a break finally appeared in the clouds. Partially draped with fog, and partly in sunshine, the mountain was more dramatic than SPHP remembered. Despite watching for the place where the G6 had been parked back in 2017 when Lupe climbed Slope Mountain, SPHP never saw it.

Back into the rain and fog, the RAV4 was well beyond Slope Mountain by the time the road construction came to an end.

8-27-22, 6:20 PM – A long, threatening growl, then pandemonium in the RAV4, as the American Dingo burst into a foaming-at-the-mouth frenzy!

Woolly cows, SPHP! Aren’t they supposed to be extinct? There’s a whole herd of them in the ditch!

Woolly cows? Those aren’t woolly cows, Loop, they’re musk oxen!

Musk oxen? You’ve mentioned them before, SPHP, but I’ve never seen any until now. Never knew what they looked like.

Well, musk oxen aren’t such a common sight, Loopster. You did see one once in Banff, but you probably don’t remember it. Anyway, I can’t believe we went all the way to Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) and never saw any wildlife other than a few birds and a vole, and now here’s a dozen musk oxen right next to the Dalton Highway!

SPHP pulled the RAV4 over by the side of the highway to watch the musk oxen, but Lupe was so frantic and loud that the whole herd soon began ambling away in search of more peaceful surroundings.

Getting to see musk oxen for the first time ever, however briefly, was awesome! Once they left, though, the question soon became where to spend the night, since it was getting on toward evening.

8-27-22, Happy Valley, Dalton Highway MP 334 – The sky was heavily overcast when SPHP pulled into a giant gravel parking lot. Supposed to be room to camp here, plus access to the Sagavanirktok River. Correct on both counts! The river was dead ahead, and there was space enough for countless vehicles, although only a few were in sight.

Various small buildings, a cluster of campers, and another of old mobile homes were strung out along the perimeter of the huge lot. The largest building was bright yellow and up on blocks. A sign with a big yellow smiley face and a red arrow said “Happy Valley Camp Entrance”.

After SPHP parked the RAV4 near tall yellow bushes on the opposite side of the lot, Lupe went over to investigate. No one around.

At the enormous **Happy Valley parking lot**.

Huh. I don’t know, Looper. Kind of a strange place.

Returning to the RAV4, Lupe hopped back up onto her pink blanket. SPHP was getting ready to heat something up for dinner when a young man and a black dog came this way from somewhere over by the river.

Kyle was 23 years old, and had been manager of the Happy Valley Camp for 5 years. Earlier this year he had bought out the 99 year lease held by the former owner, who apparently wanted out after 2 disastrous years when Covid-19 had completely killed business.

Happy Valley Camp had a total of 40 rooms that Kyle rented out during the summer to oilfield professionals and truckers, plus a cook he’d hired that provided meals for them, but not to the general public. Kyle also sold aviation fuel to the airstrip operation, which he did not control. Fortunately, business was much better this year.

Already twice Lupe’s size, Otis was a black lab puppy only 3 months old with gigantic paws. Otis was ready to leap right into the RAV4, and join Lupe on her next adventure, but the Carolina Dog was decidedly cool to the notion. Otis had to settle for a Dingo stick provided by SPHP, which he seemed perfectly happy with.

Kyle said it was fine to park here overnight at no charge. He’d already shut Happy Valley Camp down for the season. He and Otis would soon be leaving for Anchorage. Winter is coming! Kyle said. Felt like it, too, at dusk in the gloom of the cold, damp fog. Still August, but summer was long gone. Already late fall here.

Kyle and Otis eventually left for the bright yellow building. SPHP heated up a can of chili, but for some reason, Lupe didn’t want any. She did have a few Ritz crackers before settling in for the night.

8-28-22, 9:33 AM, Happy Valley, Dalton Highway MP 334 –

Fog, rain, or mist! We certainly have our choice of weather here, SPHP!

So it seems, Looper. Shall we check out the Sagavanirktok River before we move on? We’ll be heading out soon.

Wandering over that way, the Sag was as gray and murky as the sky.

**Sagavanirktok River** at **Happy Valley**. Photo looks S (upstream).

Kyle had said that fishing was good on the Sagavanirktok, but Lupe didn’t see any jump. As quiet as things were with the camp closed, a stroll over to the airstrip didn’t reveal much of interest except a display with some posters about the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge.

**Arctic National Wildlife Refuge** – **Creation & Purposes**

8-28-22, 10:23 AM, Dalton Highway – Back on the road again! Devouring last night’s scorned chili with apparent relish, the American Dingo then kept a keen eye out for any more woolly cows.

Following the Sagavanirktok River N, the Dalton Highway was wet, but in good shape. A few miles N of Happy Valley, there was a 10 mile long stretch that was chip sealed, the first pavement since way back at MP 210 a little N of Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.).

How far to Deadhorse, SPHP?

80 miles from Happy Valley, Looper. Be there by noon. Uh-oh! Dang it!

Uh-oh? What’s uh-oh, SPHP?

RAV4 got nailed by those gravel trucks in the road construction yesterday, Loop. Just noticed a crack in the lower L corner of the windshield. Shoot! Thought we’d somehow gotten lucky, and made it through that gauntlet unscathed. If I’d driven even an inch farther R, all the RAV4 would have suffered was a little chipped paint.

Oh, I see it. That’s a tiny crack, SPHP. Doesn’t hurt anything.

Yeah, fine for now, but it’ll spread. Going to need a whole new windshield at some point. Guess it’s just a risk we take coming up here, Loopster. Nothing to be done about it.

The only other time Lupe had been to Deadhorse back in 2017, the last 54 miles of the Dalton Highway had all been under construction. What a difference! Today it was all beautifully paved – striped and everything!

On the beautiful new final 54 mile section of the **Dalton Highway**. **Evil new windshield crack** (lower L).

Wow! This is awesome! Cruising in style now, Looper!

Hey, SPHP! Isn’t that a pingo way off to the L?

Oh, I bet your right, Loop! A pretty big one, too. Let’s stop real quick for a look. Haven’t seen a pingo since we were in Tuktoyaktuk!

The mighty **pingo** as seen with help from the telephoto lens.

8-28-22, 11:48 AM, 42ºF, Dalton Highway MP 414, Deadhorse – On this damp, gray day, Lupe stood at a “T” intersection with Lake Colleen in view beyond her for the first time in 5 years.

**Lake Colleen** at the **end of the Dalton Highway**.

Congratulations, Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood! You’ve made it back to the N end of the Dalton Highway!

Thank you, SPHP! Been a while, hasn’t it? To make it completely official, though, shouldn’t we go to the Prudhoe Bay General Store over by Brooks Camp?

Precisely the plan, Looper.

**Deadhorse** from the **end of the Dalton Highway**. **Lake Colleen** (L), **Aurora Hotel** (yellow building L of Center).

By the **End of the Dalton Highway** sign outside the **Prudhoe Bay General Store**.

After posing by the “Welcome to the End of the Dalton Highway” sign at the Prudhoe Bay General Store, the Carolina Dog sauntered over for a look at the nearby Crazy Horse Industrial Pad.

Checking out the **Crazy Horse Industrial Pad**.

Fueling up the RAV4 was the next priority. They were proud of their fuel at the Colville Gas Station. SPHP was just happy that there was gasoline available. Fortunately, the RAV4 wasn’t too thirsty.

What now, SPHP? Our traditional Deadhorse industrial tour?

If you can call twice a tradition already, Loop, but first, since we’re back to civilization again, how about something to eat? I’ll bring you something from the buffet at The Aurora, if you like.

Sounds good, SPHP! If they’ve got any barbecued beef ribs like at Coldfoot Camp, bring me some of those.

I’ll see what I can do, Loopster.

**Engine block heater plugins** for winter use. **8 miles from the Arctic Ocean**, Deadhorse gets a mite chilly!

8-28-22, 12:35 PM, at the Aurora Hotel in Deadhorse – The lunch buffet was only $18.00, tax included. A fabulous deal, but apparently they eat lunch early in the oil patch. The beautiful, spacious dining room was empty, and SPHP alone at the buffet.

Sadly, no barbecued beef ribs for Lupe, but there was lots of other great stuff to choose from. SPHP loaded up a big tray, then sat by one of the huge picture windows with a view of Lake Colleen.

It was all delicious! Only the fact that they began tearing the buffet down at 1:00 PM sharp kept SPHP from being a tremendous glutton.

Took long enough, SPHP! What did you bring me? Lots of scrumptious ribs, I hope!

No ribs, I’m afraid, Loop, but look at this! Got a few things I think you’ll enjoy during our Deadhorse industrial tour this afternoon.

The Carolina Dog’s eyes grew big as SPHP opened a Styrofoam doggie box full of ham, cheese, and roast beef.

8-28-22, 1:54 PM – An industrial camp serving the Prudhoe Bay oilfields near the Arctic Ocean, Deadhorse has no business district, virtually no shopping, and no private homes. Touring Deadhorse meant touring all kinds of industrial establishments offering oilfield supplies, equipment, or services, and going by the few hotels where the workers live.

The **golf course** with **2 giant golf balls**. Oilfield workers don’t play mini-golf.

Deadhorse isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. When Loopster first visited the Brooks Range in 2016, quite a few people described Alaska’s North Slope as boring, and Deadhorse as just an ugly industrial place. Not worth the time and expense to get here!

Having worked in heavy industry, SPHP felt differently. Deadhorse, and its demanding jobs in such a remote, harsh climate, seemed more like an exciting opportunity and adventure.

Lupe shared some of SPHP’s enthusiasm for the North Slope, but wasn’t all that keen on the industrial side of Deadhorse, although she willingly participated in today’s tour between tasty tidbits from The Aurora.

SPHP drove every road open to the public in Deadhorse, including the one that went all the way around Lake Colleen.

**Tanker trucks** and stacks of **industrial containers**.

For the most part, Deadhorse looked remarkably similar to how it had been during Lupe’s 2017 visit, but there were some changes. The Alaska Airlines terminal at the airport seemed to be closed. The Prudhoe Bay Hotel across the street was closed, too.

Nothing going on at the **Alaska Airlines terminal**.

A note on the **Prudhoe Bay hotel** door dated 7-1-21 said it was temporarily closed.

These days, all the action at the airport seemed to be originating over at the Deadhorse Aviation Center down the street from the Alaska Airlines terminal, but SPHP didn’t go inside to find out if that was really the case.

There aren’t that many streets in Deadhorse. Even at a leisurely pace, Lupe’s industrial tour took only a little over an hour.

8-28-22, 3:04 PM, Deadhorse –

Happy, SPHP? Is the industrial tour over?

Yes. Enjoyed seeing it all again, Loopster. Thanks for being a good sport!

Great! Can we get to the fun stuff then, and visit the Sagavanirktok River?

Pretty soon. I want to check on tours available at Deadhorse Camp, first.

You already did the Arctic Ocean tour as my personal representative in 2017, SPHP.

Yeah, I know, but I’d like to see what else they might have to offer.

The Sagivanirktok River was right along the Dalton Highway on the way into Deadhorse. Deadhorse Camp was, too. One of the first buildings on the L entering Deadhorse, it used to be a sickly yellow, but was now sporting brand new dark red siding.

At **Deadhorse Camp**, **home of the Arctic Ocean Tour**.

8-28-22, 3:17 PM, Deadhorse Camp – Took SPHP a few minutes to realize that the entrance stairway had been switched to the opposite end of the building since Lupe had last been here. The American Dingo waited in the RAV4 while SPHP went inside.

So what did they say, SPHP? Did you sign up for a tour?

The only tour they can book here in Deadhorse is the same Arctic Ocean tour I went on in 2017.

Oh, too bad, SPHP! Can we go to the Sagavanirktok River now?

Sure, for a while, Loop. Have to report back here between 5:00 and 6:00 PM. They should have an answer back by then on whether I pass muster on the security check they’re running on me.

What? You’re taking the Arctic Ocean tour again, SPHP?

Yup! Why not? How often are we ever going to be this close to the Arctic Ocean, anyway? The price is still only $69.00! Hasn’t changed since 2017, so a super bargain. Besides, I’ve got unfinished business with this tour.

What kind of unfinished business, SPHP?

Last time it never even occurred to me that I could go swimming in the Arctic Ocean. We were already there when I realized what the stack of white towels that were in the bus were for. I wasn’t prepared, and had to settle for just wading in the ocean. This time, I’m going to swim in the Arctic Ocean, Looper!

And I suppose I still get left out, aye, SPHP? Still no Dingoes allowed on the tour?

Afraid so, Loopster. Back to being your personal representative again. I did ask, and told them you wouldn’t be any trouble at all, but they said no.

8-28-22, 4:00 PM – The mood at the Sagavanirktok River was completely different from what it had been in 2017. Back then there’d been a little sunshine, the sky only partly cloudy. A small crowd was present. People in wet suits had been tubing down the river, and some optimistic soul had spent a frustrating hour trying to fly a green kite despite an almost non-existent breeze. The atmosphere had been rather festive.

Except for a lone pickup truck with a green camper, no one was around today. Although no longer raining or misting, the sky was completely overcast.

Today’s burgeoning crowd at the **Sagavanirktok**. **Green camper** (L).

Lupe still spent a wonderful late afternoon along the Sagivanirktok River. Some sort of unseen marmots or Arctic prairie dogs were living in holes in the tundra. One in particular inhabited a 40 foot long steel pipe that had a 3rd hole in it 10 feet from the river end.

Perfectly safe in its steel fortress, the marmot squeaked enticingly from within, as Lupe frantically tried to dig out the entire pipe, doomed to failure from the start. None of that mattered to the determined Dingo. Although SPHP managed to divert her attention with walks along the river, Lupe always insisted on returning to her pipeline excavation.

Happily occupied along the **Sagavanirktok River**.

Upstream the river was well contained by a steep bank where occasional piers of rock extended partway out into the main channel. Downstream, there was more opportunity to explore the water’s edge. At this time of year, the Sag was low with lots of exposed river bottom to sniff.

Heading off to explore the downstream region.

**Deadhorse** from the **Sagavanirktok River**.

8-28-22, 4:47 PM – A group of ptarmigans were in the parking lot when SPHP parked the RAV4 at Deadhorse Camp again. Despite arriving a bit earlier than told to, they already had an answer back. Once again, the United States was willing to take a chance on letting SPHP ride the Arctic Ocean tour bus. Dingoes were still too big a threat to national security.

**Ptarmigans** at the Deadhorse Camp parking lot.

Probably think you’re an Australian spy, Looper.

Not buying that I’m an American Dingo, aye? You should have told them that I was a Carolina Dog, SPHP!

In any case, the die was cast. SPHP was booked on the tour leaving at 8:30 AM tomorrow morning. After leaving Deadhorse Camp, Lupe got to spend the rest of the evening along the Sagavanirktok River. Even the green camper was long gone.

8-29-22, the wee hours, Sagavanirktok River – 41ºF, but the night seemed cold, raw, and damp. The lights of Deadhorse were beautiful in the fog. SPHP couldn’t sleep with the impending test of sanity and self-discipline only hours away. Swim in the Arctic Ocean? Inconceivable! The shame of chickening out wasn’t exactly a grand prospect, either. Under cover of darkness, SPHP changed into a bathing suit before bundling up again.

8-29-22, 5:18 AM, Sagavanirktok River – Starting to get light out. Lupe wanted out of the RAV4 to sniff the morning air. Still foggy. During the short drive to The Aurora a few minutes later, she had some Taste of the Wild from her silver bowl.

The breakfast buffet was going great guns at this hour. SPHP enjoyed a very hearty meal. Still only $15.00. Same price as in 2017. What a steal!

Bring me anything, SPHP?

You know I did, Loopster! You can munch on it while we take a last spin around Lake Colleen.

Bacon and sausage patties! Another fantastic tour of Lake Colleen!

Back at the Sagavanirktok River, there was no sky, only fog, but Lupe could see the river. A bird that looked part duck, part loon was floating by. This bird had a disturbingly strange cry like a cat in distress – mew, mew, mew! Other ducks responded, paddling over to it, but the catbird wasn’t actually hurt. Another bird of the same type with the same cry soon flew off in apparently perfect health.

8-29-22, 7:34 AM, Deadhorse Camp, 40ºF – Tyler, a young man, verified that SPHP was on the Arctic Ocean tour list, then accepted the required $69.00, which SPHP paid in cash. Molly, who also worked here, said she wanted to meet Lupe when the tour was over. She missed her dog.

Tyler turned out to be the tour guide and shuttle bus driver. After a short wait while others arrived, everyone boarded the bus. Lupe, of course, had to stay in the RAV4. 7 people were on the tour, including SPHP. A lively group, they made it fun, peppering Tyler with questions during the drive through the oilfields.

To SPHP, the most interesting comment Tyler made was that the Alaska oil pipeline now only carries about 300,000 barrels of oil per day, an 85% decrease from its heyday when 2,000,000 barrels was normal.

8-29-22, 8:47 AM, Arctic Ocean at Prudhoe Bay – Although visibly eroded, the spit of gravelly land next to where Tyler parked the shuttle bus was instantly recognized by SPHP. This was the exact same place where the 2017 Arctic Ocean tour had wound up.

Tyler referred to this spit as a “dock” that had been built on barrels still rusting away at its far end.

**Arctic Ocean** from the end of the “dock”.

The moment of truth was at paw! Proceeding without hesitation, SPHP was not alone stripping down to a swimsuit.

Can’t think about this, or it will never happen! SPHP was first, leading the way into the Arctic Ocean. The ocean was shallow. It was quite a trek out to where it was finally mid-thigh.

C’ya all! I’m swimming to Russia!

Plunging in, SPHP completely submerged, getting a taste of salt water in the process. The swim to Russia had scarcely begun, when SPHP shot out of the water with one great whoop, then proceeded to wade back into shore, clutching a souvenier rock torn from the ocean floor. The rock was a perfectly ordinary, rounded, greenish stone, but it would do. SPHP hadn’t the slightest intention of seeking out a better one.

At least 2 other tour members also swam, however briefly, in the Arctic Ocean. All but one at least waded in a ways. Everyone was laughing and talking about how great it was! A couple from Colombia hugged with joy at having made it all this way. It really was a great moment, a landmark in time. SPHP’s only regret was that Lupe wasn’t there, too.

Fellow tour members still cavorting in **Prudhoe Bay**.

Tyler passed out white towels from a cardboard box. Took a little while before everyone was dried off and adequately layered up again.

Tour guide, **Tyler**, appropriately dressed on the R, as the tour winds down.

The **shuttle bus** (R of Center) from the end of the spit.

Last glance at the **Arctic Ocean** before departing.

On the way back to Deadhorse Camp, a red fox was spotted roaming the oil patch. There’d been foxes during the 2017 Arctic Ocean tour, too.

Upon reaching Deadhorse Camp, Tyler passed out an “Arctic Polar Bear Club Certificate of Membership for braving the icy waters of the Arctic Ocean at Prudhoe Bay, Alaska!” to everyone on the tour who had dared stick a toe in the water. Dated August 29, 2022, it was personally signed by Tyler making it all official.

Molly came out to meet and pet Lupe at the RAV4, too. Lupe was happy with all the attention Molly gave her, and joined SPHP during good-byes and bon voyages with fellow tour members.

So, how did it go, SPHP? Glad you’re here, but I wasn’t expecting you back quite this soon. What was Russia like?

Experienced a sudden change of heart about swimming to Russia shortly after plunging in, Loop. Never actually got there.

Well, as my personal representative, you did at least go swimming in the Arctic Ocean for me, didn’t you?

Oh, yes! Yes, I did, Loopster! For quite a few nanoseconds. A good dozen or more, I’d say.

That isn’t very long is it, SPHP? I can hardly go around boasting that the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood’s personal representative swam in the Arctic Ocean for 12 nanoseconds, can I?

I suppose not, Loop, but that’s a good thing!

Oh, really? In what way, SPHP?

Now we’ve got a reason to come back to Deadhorse again! Next time I can work on my Arctic Ocean swimming endurance for you. Pretty sure I can shatter today’s record.

8-29-22, 10:34 AM, Sagavanirktok River – SPHP had another walk along the Sag in mind, but didn’t get far. Lupe had other ideas, preferring to stick her nose down Arctic prairie dog holes instead. That was OK, it was her turn for fun. SPHP enjoyed watching her enthusiasm, and admiring the mighty Sag, as gray as the sky.

8-29-22, 11:42 AM, 43ºF – 24 hours after arriving, still in a gray fog, Lupe left Deadhorse on the beautiful 54 mile long new stretch of the Dalton Highway. Before departure there’d been one more visit to the Prudhoe Bay General Store near Brooks Camp so SPHP could buy a few souvenirs in addition to the green rock plucked from the Arctic Ocean for Lupe’s rock collection.

The fog lifted. Vast regions of golden tundra were in view. Although many adventures were still ahead, there was a sadness to heading S again. SPHP couldn’t shake the feeling that an epic journey had reached its climax back along the foggy Sagavanirktok River in Deadhorse.

The sadness only got worse when Lupe spotted a lone caribou. Soon 8 were seen on a hillside, but bow hunters in camouflage appeared ready to slaughter them. Terrible!

Passing Happy Valley, it’s bright yellow headquarters could be seen from the highway, and it did seem a more cheerful place. No doubt Kyle and Otis were still there for a few more days, busy winterizing the facilities.

Another herd of musk oxen was a special treat. Grazing quite a long way from the highway over by the Sagavanirktok River, they were too far off to inspire the same frenzied reaction from the Carolina Dog that the ones in the ditch had 2 days ago.

SPHP was disappointed when both Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.) and Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) turned out to be hidden by clouds. Only their lower slopes were in view.

Approaching Galbraith Lake near the N edge of the Brooks Range, the Dalton Highway was dry for the first time in days. A fair amount of blue sky was around, too.

Galbraith Lake seems to be the only dry spot in the entire Brooks Range and North Slope! Want to stay at the campground again, Loop?

8-29-22, 4:15 PM, Galbraith Lake Campground, Dalton Highway MP 275 – The American Dingo was all for that idea! And why not? It was already a favorite spot. Lupe spent much of the evening having a blast exploring the tundra W of the campground.

Investigating beneath boulders W of Galbraith Lake campground. Photo looks E.

Lupe had been here 4 nights ago. SPHP noticed a certain chill in the air, and that the fall colors were no longer quite as brilliant as they had been so recently. Yet if this weather would hold, the American Dingo was in for another incredible Brooks Range adventure tomorrow.

Unfortunately, after wandering until distant lights were visible over by the Galbraith airstrip and on the Dalton Highway, this peaceful evening out on the tundra ended with the mountains all hidden by clouds and fog moving in. A sad thought – maybe this was it for the Brooks Range, after all? (11:15 PM)