Day 30 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2024 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
12:08 AM – Despite the low clouds reflecting the lights of Deadhorse that were spitting light rain, and a chill W wind, Lupe wanted out. SPHP joined the Carolina Dog while she sniffed around in the darkness.
Probably the last time we’ll see the lights of Deadhorse, at least on this Dingo Vacation, Loopster.
Oh, are we leaving tomorrow, SPHP?
Yup. August is just about shot, Loop. Time to head S. With a little luck, maybe we can climb a few peaks in the Brooks Range, if the weather will cooperate.
That was a big if, given how rainy the Brooks Range had been not so long ago on the way N.
5:42 AM – Lupe had her last sniff along the Sagavanirktok River, a rosy glow on the ENE horizon in an otherwise gray sky beyond her. Within minutes, even more clouds moved in, turning the entire scene gray.
That’s it! C’mon, Looper. We’ve got 2 errands to run in Deadhorse before we head S.
Make that 3 errands. When SPHP fired up the RAV4, the tire pressure warning light came on and never went out. No obvious flat, but better check it out.
6:40 AM, 38ºF, Deadhorse, Colville automated gas station – After filling the RAV4 at the bargain price of $6.998 per gallon (over 8 bucks 2 years ago), SPHP checked the pressure on all 4 tires. First 3 were at 33 psi, a couple of pounds low, likely just due to the cold. However, the L front tire was at only 31 psi. A slow leak?
Lights were on at a big shop building next to the gas station. A couple of mechanics were in there working on a semi. Could SPHP get all 4 tires aired up a bit here? Sure! No sooner said than done.
And could they recommend a place to get that left front tire repaired, or at least checked for leaks? SPHP was shocked by the reply. Nope! No one they knew of worked on light vehicles here. Everyone works on big rigs. Since the leak seems to be a slow one, just drive to Coldfoot on the S side of the Brooks Range. They’ll be able to take care of it.
Hardly seemed possible, Coldfoot was 240 miles away. Yet, as mechanics, they ought to know the situation around here.
Better be a really slow leak, is all I can say, Loopster.
Don’t we have a spare, SPHP?
Yeah. Kind of hoping we won’t have to use it. It’ll be fun going over Atigun Pass running that little doughnut, Sweet Puppy.
7:39 AM, 37ºF – At Brooks Supply, SPHP bought the last souvenirs of Lupe’s stay in Deadhorse, a set of 4 coffee mugs. All the same, they were beautiful with depictions of trees, moose, and mountains on them. The inscription said “Alaska – Land of the Midnight Sun”.
6 bucks each, can you believe it, Loop? Must have been on clearance.
Errands done, and the low tire pressure light out for the time being, Lupe left Deadhorse beneath a gloomy sky. Bucking a headwind, it felt like a day in late November back home. Comfortably warm, the RAV4 rolled right along, though, and the American Dingo was bright and alert.
Maybe we’ll see some musk oxen, SPHP! Like back in 2022.
Hope so. That would be awesome, Loopster!
No musk oxen appeared, but big rounded ridges E of the Sagavanirktok River valley eventually did as the clouds started to break up. They were white.
Snow, SPHP!
Wow! Must have been snowing here while we were in Deadhorse the last couple of days, Loop. C’mon, let’s get a picture!
Continuing S, the sky was soon looking brighter and brighter to the SW.
Well, I’ll be. Appears we’re going to drive out from under this enormous cloud, Looper. There actually is an end to it.
Before that even happened, an electrifying scene appeared ahead. The entire Brooks Range was a glorious, pristine, winter white! Never in all her summer Dingo Vacations to Canada and Alaska, had Lupe ever seen so much new snow in any of the mountain ranges she’d visited.
My gosh! Could be January, SPHP.
Simply stunning! We’ve got to get some photos, Loop!
Lupe was soon leaping out of the RAV4 every few miles as one gorgeous scene after another appeared.
After heading W for several miles, once Toolik Lake came into view, the Dalton Highway turned S again, straight into the Brooks Range. SPHP became transfixed by the sight of a gleaming white mountain towering above all others beneath the uncharacteristically clear Arctic sky.
Oh, my gosh, Loop! That’s Mount Kiev (7,775 ft.)!
Spectacular! I can’t remember ever seeing its summit before, SPHP. Have we?
Perhaps a momentary glimpse among the clouds, Loopster, but never out in a clear blue sky like this before. Maybe we can climb it tomorrow?
Tomorrow? What about today, SPHP? It’s perfect, we can’t let it go to waste.
As slow as I am, Mount Kiev is a long way for us, Looper. It’ll take a 2, or maybe even 3 day backpacking trip, and today will be half shot before we can even set out. There’s another mountain on your list of possibilities that we still might be able to climb this afternoon, though.
And which one is that, SPHP?
Remember West Galbraith Peak (4,560 ft.), Loop? Peak 4916, the high point of a long ridge on the edge of the North Slope, is NW of it. Ought to have some incredible views on a day like this.
Sounds terrific! Let’s climb Peak 4916 today then, SPHP.
The plan had been to stay at the Galbraith Lake campground, if the tire pressure light didn’t come on again, and it hadn’t. Suddenly, given the opportunity presented by these totally unexpected amazing conditions, there was reason to get there as soon as possible. Even so, the views were so awesome, SPHP kept stopping along the road.
It’s all incredibly beautiful, SPHP, but if we want to climb Peak 4916 today, we need to quit dinking around and get to the campground!
I know. We’re almost there, Looper. Just a few more minutes. You’ll see.
1:41 PM, 49ºF, Galbraith Lake Campground – After skipping breakfast, lunch was an absolute necessity before heading into the mountains. SPHP had heated up a can of Dinty Moore chicken & dumplings, a Lupe favorite, to share with the American Dingo. The afternoon had warmed up nicely, the sky remained crystal clear, and the pack was now ready.
Off to the WSW, the big gap N of West Galbraith Peak (4,560 ft.) leading into the valley S of Peak 4916 beckoned.
Time’s a-wasting! All set, SPHP?
You better believe it! Onward! Puppy, ho!
Taking the loop road to the W side of the campground, Lupe then headed WSW across the tundra. After crossing the access road leading back to the Galbraith airstrip and Dalton Highway, the Carolina Dog ventured up a still colorful tundra slope toward the gap.
What little snow was down at this elevation added a bright, white purity to the tundra, but was melting fast. Lupe ate mouthfuls of it. A gradual climb soon led to a flat region that dipped a little ahead. Beyond this plain, HP3500, a 100+ foot high ridge, divided the approach to the valley leading to Peak 4916 into 2 separate routes.
SPHP’s initial inclination was to explore the lower route N of HP3500. However, the flat region proved to be boggy. Staying S, where the ground was slightly higher and drier, was better. As a result, Lupe wound up heading for Pass 3350 between West Galbraith Peak and HP3500, since that pass was now closer.
Along the way, the views were simply incredible! Lupe had explored this region once before. Exactly 2 years ago today, she’d climbed both West Galbraith Peak (4,560 ft.) and Peak 5050. The new snow made everything even more beautiful now.
Mount Kiev (7,775 ft.) was almost directly S. Peak 5305 was SSE. The white monster much farther SE was Peak 7090. Meanwhile, nearly due E, Peak 5308 loomed over the Atigun River valley.
Skirting the S end of the boggy region, the American Dingo eventually had to start climbing again as she approached the pass. As Lupe gained elevation, Galbraith Lake started coming into view behind her. Beyond it, Lake Benchmark Mountain (4,950 ft.) was also in sight, a mountain she had climbed years ago on a day that had begun wonderfully clear like this, but turned foggy.
Upon reaching Pass 3350, Peak 4500 was in sight just beyond it. The pass was plenty wide and easy terrain, except that most of the center was soft and squishy wet. Trying to avoid sinking into mud, SPHP tried both sides of the pass, the N side first, then the S, which was better.
Once over Pass 3350, the terrain sloped gradually down to the valley W of West Galbraith Peak. Peak 4916 came into view along the way.
Upon reaching a small stream in the valley W of West Galbraith Peak, Lupe crossed it, then regained some elevation as she went around the end of Peak 4500’s NE ridge. This got her to the valley she intended to explore today.
Doing great, Loop! All we have to do now is head WSW up this big valley until we decide on the best place to begin our ascent.
Staying on the S side, somewhat above the floor of the valley where the ground was firmer, Lupe made excellent progress traversing a relatively gentle slope. Before long, the Carolina Dog came to 2 tiny streams in wet washes, easily crossing both as she continued on her way.
“Wet washes” are a thing, aren’t they, Looper? I’ve often heard the term “dry wash” used for a dry, eroded ravine or gully, but come to think of it, I don’t recall ever actually hearing anyone use the term wet wash before.
I suppose they are, SPHP. Makes sense to me. A wet wash is just a dry wash that isn’t dry, right? Hardly a burning issue of social significance, though. Don’t think you need worry about it. Have you decided where we’re going to cross the valley and start up Peak 4916 yet?
Not necessarily. Looks like multiple routes might work. Kind of steeper than I expected, though. Let’s stick with this traverse a little farther. See that high, level ridge on the other side of the valley with some snow on it? It’s SW of Peak 4916’s summit, so a somewhat longer route, but it doesn’t look very hard to get up there. Maybe we ought to try that approach?
Exploring the scenic valley was fun, and there seemed to be adequate time left in the day yet, so why not? Lupe trotted along, happily sniffing and roaming at will, soon reaching a much larger dry wash.
Beyond the dry wash, the American Dingo came to a big rock. By now, several possible routes up Peak 4916 were in sight. Directly across the valley, a short route up the mountain’s SE ridge appeared feasible, but quite steep. Another one up the nearby S ridge looked similar.
Getting up to that flat, snowy part of the SW ridge still looks easier. Mind if we go that way, Loop, even though it’s a longer route?
More to explore is always fine with me, SPHP.
With a plan of action now decided upon, Lupe made a gradual descent through a bushy region down to the stream in the center of the valley. After crossing it, she followed the streambed upstream. Coming to other small channels, all were easily crossed. Soon it was time to start angling WNW up the other side of the valley.
A march through another region of bushes and bogginess led to a second dry wash. Beyond it, Lupe climbed a gentle slope to an area with some tundra. This spot had a terrific view of a short side valley immediately S of Peak 4916, as well as farther up the main valley.
4:17 PM, 0.5 mile S of the Peak 4916 summit –
This is a great spot, SPHP! Might not come to another one, once we begin our ascent. I’m getting hungry again, too. Mind if we take a break here?
Sure, but only a short one, Loop, since we got off to kind of a late start.
After having some Taste of the Wild and a piece of duck jerky, Lupe sat for a few minutes staring SSW farther up the main valley. The N end of Peak 5050, which she’d climbed exactly 2 years ago today by a different route, was right across the valley. Exploring farther up the main valley toward an even higher snowy peak at the far end looked like fun.
Maybe someday. While SPHP sat munching on sunflower seeds, Lupe put her head down on the soft tundra, closed her eyes, and snoozed.
4:43 PM – A mighty short nap, but the Carolina Dog did appear to be at least somewhat refreshed.
Ready, Loopster? Not sure how this is going to go. Once we make it up onto the SW ridge, I’m seeing some gnarly-looking rock bands and minor cliffs that we’ll face on the way to the summit. Can’t tell from down here if we’ll be able to get around them, or not.
Only way to find out is to start climbing, SPHP. Unless you’ve changed your mind and want to try some other route?
Having come this far, Peak 4916’s S ridge was now the only other route close by, and it was steeper, nearly all rock, and had some questionable rock formations along the ridgeline, too. Might work, but the tundra slope leading up to the SW ridge looked a lot easier.
Naw. Let’s just head up to the SW ridge, and take our chances, Loop.
The SW ridge was 1,000 feet above the break spot. Heading W, then NW, Lupe began her ascent, showing surprising enthusiasm and energy. The mostly tundra and scree-covered slopes weren’t uniform. Steep most of the way, but with short, significantly easier stretches, too.
During frequent pauses to gasp for air, SPHP kept an eye on the route Lupe would have to take after reaching the ridgeline. Most of it looked fine, but without rock climbing skills, it wouldn’t take that much to hit an insurmountable obstacle. Success wasn’t nearly as certain as SPHP had originally assumed it would be.
Halfway up, at the 4,000 foot level, Lupe came to the brink of a sudden, unexpected drop. This near vertical drop was a mere 10 or 15 feet, but immediately raised concern. Fortunately, the American Dingo quickly discovered a safe spot to scramble down without having to backtrack.
That dip was the only real obstacle encountered on the way up to the SW ridge. Once beyond it, Lupe gained a few hundred feet of elevation on fairly steep terrain before coming to an easier stretch, a gentler slope where tundra extended the rest of the way to the ridgeline.
5:42 PM – Lupe reached the SW ridge at broad, rounded saddle. It was a different world up here. Miniature snowdrifts covered an enticing route leading to a higher point farther SW, unfortunately the wrong direction. A NW breeze sweeping over the ridge made SPHP shiver. Suddenly, the sun seemed lower.
For the first time, the Carolina Dog could now see the territory N of the ridge she was on. The view was amazing, but not what SPHP expected.
Shoot! Thought we would have a grand view of Alaska’s North Slope from up here, Loopster.
Might want to take a look at your topo map once in a while, SPHP. I can’t believe it doesn’t show this.
Directly N, where SPHP had expected the North Slope to be, a nearby ridge blocked the view. Looking W, a series of distant mountains and ridges extended from the N edge of the Brooks Range toward a narrow view of the North Slope.
While the view N was unexpected, the view to the S was electrifying! Flanked by many snow-clad peaks, beyond Peak 5050, Mount Kiev (7,775 ft.) soared into the blue.
Wow, stunning, SPHP! Even if we never make it to the top of Peak 4916, this view alone has been worth the trip.
True enough, but the news was good. Immediately to the NE was a tall rock wall that had been a concern visible from below. Although clearly impassable across most of the ridge, the American Dingo could easily get around its lower NW end.
Another wall, which had been of even greater concern, was beyond the first one, but Lupe found the same situation here. Impassable toward the SE, she could easily go around the NW end, where the wall simply melted into the mountain.
Beyond this second wall, a steep slope of somewhat loose scree led up to a high point at the junction of Peak 4916’s NW and SW ridges. While SPHP wasn’t crazy about it, Lupe clearly enjoyed the scramble.
The junction of Peak 4916’s NW & SW ridges wasn’t real big, but at least it was flat with room enough to move around a bit. From here, Lupe did have a grand view of Alaska’s North Slope. Far beyond a region of small lakes, Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) and Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.) were both in sight.
Back to the SW, the scene was one of rugged splendor, where the high ridge comprising Three Sisters Summit (7,386 ft.) rose beyond jagged peaks. Naturally, the view of Mount Kiev remained an eye-catcher, too.
As magnificent and awe-inspiring as it all was, one view above all others was now of utmost importance. What was the rest of the ridge leading to Peak 4916 like? Was Lupe going to be able to reach the summit?
The double-topped summit region was now in sight, farther E than SPHP expected. A single massive rock formation halfway along the otherwise simple ridge appeared to be the only obstacle. Was it a show-stopper?
Only one way to find out, SPHP!
Let’s do it, Sweet Puppy!
After venturing down a dip along the ridgeline, Lupe started up toward the final obstacle ahead, soon reaching a 10 foot high wall of rock cutting diagonally across the ridge.
As expected, too vertical to scramble over it. A quick check of the snowy slope on the N side was scary steep. Most of the S slope was pretty steep, too, but along the R side of the wall of rock, a ramp that wasn’t bad at all extended clear down to the bottom of the wall.
This way, SPHP!
If the Carolina Dog could make it back to the ridgeline beyond that next corner, SPHP knew she’d be golden.
Yikes! At the corner, a very steep, somewhat loose scree slope greeted Lupe. Sort of scary, but only for 20 feet. Gotta do it! Trivial for any real mountaineer. A shower of scree clattered down as Lupe went first.
Made it! Not at the ridgeline yet, but she was above the worst of it.
Great job, Loopster!
C’mon, SPHP!
Dicey, but even SPHP managed it.
Onward! Puppy, ho!
6:55 PM, 36ºF, Peak 4916 – The final trudge up to the SW summit amid the slanting rays of the early evening sun was a journey of great joy and exhilaration! Upon reaching the top, SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.
Congratulations, Loopster! Can’t be too many Dingoes who have ever been here!
Their huge loss, SPHP! Glad we made it!
The marginally higher true summit was another 125 feet NE, but rocky. Time enough for that in a bit. The gently-rounded SW summit featured some thin tundra Lupe could relax on, so she immediately laid down. SPHP sat beside her. A light N breeze felt cold. Mount Kiev (7,775 ft.) tomorrow? How much more frigid would that be? Suddenly, that notion seemed dangerous.
Chocolate coconut bar time, SPHP. Earned it, didn’t we?
Most certainly, Sweet Puppy. Just a moment.
SPHP produced the expected reward and more. Taste of the Wild and a duck jerky for the American Dingo, sunflower seeds for SPHP. Water for all, of course. When it all vanished, nothing more to do except sit there, surrounded by glory in all directions. So much to see!
Of course, this wasn’t the first time Lupe had seen these views. Exactly 2 years ago, she’d been on West Galbraith Peak (4,560 ft.) & Peak 5050. Both were incredible vantage points. However, with a sweeping view of Alaska’s North Slope, and all of the new snow on the mountains today, Peak 4916 was even better.
Incredible being back among these splendid, wild peaks on the N side of the Brooks Range again, SPHP!
We’re so lucky, Looper, so, so lucky!
7:24 PM – Late August. The Arctic sun was sinking. Half an hour had flown, and it wasn’t getting any warmer. Lupe stood poised on the SW summit, waiting. SPHP took the shot.
Fabulous! Got it, Looper! Thank you!
The Carolina Dog came running. One more thing to do up here. Time to tag the true summit! 125 feet along the easy connecting summit ridge, and Lupe was there.
After tagging the true summit, Lupe looked tired. She laid down on the snow next to the highest rocks and closed her eyes, trying to absorb a bit of warmth from the weak Arctic sun. SPHP let her be. More than 13.67 years old, and here was Lupe, SPHP’s greatest and ever-faithful friend, still climbing mountains on the N side of the Brooks Range in Alaska.
May it always be so!
While very similar, the views and focus here were a bit different. Beyond Lupe, Peak 4916’s long NE ridge was now in sight, snaking away toward Galbraith Lake, more of which was visible from this end of the summit ridge. Quite a bit of snow had melted, rendering the mountains in this direction less dramatic than they had been earlier in the day.
As Lupe dozed, SPHP’s gaze was increasingly drawn toward Alaska’s still sunlit North Slope, and especially Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) and Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.), seen on the horizon, both sites of former, fondly remembered, adventures.
7:42 PM, Peak 4916 – Another very short nap had once again done the American Dingo some good. SPHP stood at the true summit, looking back at Lupe, who was now bright-eyed and raring to go again, the SW summit, and an unforgettable scene beyond her. Sadly, the inevitable moment had come.
Onward! Puppy, ho!
Would have been fun to explore the long NE ridge, but an initial drop getting down to it looked daunting. Instead, displaying great energy and enthusiasm again, the Carolina Dog led the way down the SE ridge. Very rocky and steep for a long way, but it worked. Once back down to the valley, Lupe had a blast roaming at will during the rest of the return as she retraced her original route with relatively minor variations.
11:02 PM, 31ºF, Galbraith Lake campground – The sun was long gone, and virtually all light now, too. Tired and hungry, as Lupe and SPHP reached the RAV4 at the end of this long and fabulous day, a sudden, unexpected change occurred. Fog swept in from the N slope. In less than a minute, the dim, dark silhouettes of the mountains vanished entirely.
Back in the nick of time, SPHP!
Going to be a long, cold night, Loopster.
I’m famished! What’s for dinner, SPHP?
Salmon.
That sounded good – another Lupe favorite! Too bad the Ritz crackers to go with it were all gone.
Links:
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
Slope Mountain & Highlights of the Dalton Highway Revisited, Alaska (8-22-17 & 8-23-17)
Lake Benchmark Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-29-17)
Imnavait Mountain, North Slope, Alaska (8-26-22)
West Galbraith Peak, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-30-22)
Peak 5050, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-30-22)
Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2024 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, Utah, Wyoming, Montana, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.
